ginBy Gregg Glaser The Dutch invented it, the English changed it and Americans drink it. It’s made with juniper berries, coriander, orris root, nutmeg, cassia bark, cinnamon, licorice, orange peel, lemon peel, angelica root, cardamom, cloves, gentian root, cubeb berries, grains of paradise, manuka berries, kawa kawa leaves and/or bitter almonds.

It made the Martini famous, as well as the & Tonic. It was the spirit of choice for mixed drinks from the 1920s to the 1960s. It was the basis of the Three Martini Lunch. Gin as a popular category has been overshadowed by for the last few decades, but it still remains the venera- ble old grand-daddy of white spirits. According to Adams Liquor Handbook 2004, gin sold in the U.S. was 11.0 mil- lion 9-liter cases in 2003. In 1992, that number was 12.3 million cases. Gin's share of total spirits consumption has also declined to 6.9 percent in 2003 vs. 8.4 percent in 1992. What you need to know about Gin Gin was first created in Holland in the 1600s by Franciscus Sylvius, a Dutch doc- tor who was attempting to develop a new medicine to treat stomach ailments. Juniper flavoring was added to make the potion more palatable, thus the name “genever,” the Dutch word for juniper. At the end of 2003, gin held sixth place strong top-note of juniper (historically, as a share of distilled spirits by category, gin’s predominant ingredient) and high- Gin also gets its name from the berries of trailing vodka (26.2 percent), rum (13.3 lighting other botanicals that are softer. the juniper tree, or ‘ginpero’ in Italy. percent), cordials & (12.1 per- And then there’s the packaging. Instead Gin is simply a neutral grain spirit fla- cent), Canadian (9.7 percent) and of classic-shaped (boring, perhaps) bot- vored with a variety of botanicals such as straight whiskies (8.4 percent). tles, the new super-premium are juniper berries, coriander, orange peel, or Gin’s share of spirit sales is no longer poured into innovative, artistic bottles: angelica root. plummeting in the U.S. (down only 0.3 Tanqueray Ten in a distinctive green cut- A distilled gin must, according to the law, percent in 2003 from 2002) and that can glass bottle; Hendrick’s in a somewhat be distilled in a gin still in the presence of be read as good news for gin. squat, almost retro, brownish bottle; and botanicals or other natural ingredients, South in a clear, cone-shaped bottle. of which the predominant ingredient Super-Premium Gins “There is great marketing and packag- must be juniper berries. “Gin was drowning, so stagnant in ing with these new brands,” DeGroff said. The term “London Dry” refers to the fact growth, in a way,” said Dale DeGroff, a that quality gin does not need to have cocktail and spirits expert. “The encour- A Resurgence for Gin? added sugar or sweetness. aging news is coming from the new super- Tom Pirko, president of the bever- About 700 years ago during the Black premium gins that are cocktail friendly.” age consulting firm Bevmark LLC of Death (bubonic plague), gin was seen as Gin is categorized as Dutch-style Santa Barbara, CA, believes that gin is a a herbal remedy. Later, British soldiers Genever, London Dry Gin, Plymouth Gin growth category. “Spirits are red hot,” drank gin and tonic to combat malaria. or Old Tom Gin. Most gin falls into the Pirko said, “with some brands jumping London Dry Gin style, which DeGroff said ahead 10 to 15 percent. A high tide Gins restorative effects sustained many a footsoldier through the bleak campaigns in is most often used for the classic Martini. floats all boats and gin can benefit the Low Countries (Belgium, The Nether- Genevers are usually consumed neat, from this.” lands, Luxembourg), giving rise to the gin- Plymouth can be mixed or not and Old Pirko believes that gin will grow in drinking expression 'Dutch Courage'. Tom Gin is sweetened and rare. sales as all spirits sell more and as dis- ® “Old-style London Dry Gin,” DeGroff tillers invest more advertising dollars in Beefeater is named for the famous Yeoman Warders who guard the Tower said, “doesn’t appeal to the Echo Boomers, cable TV and other major media. “The of London. who are the newest legal drinking age walls will fall for TV advertising for spir- group. They like the new super-premium its,” Pirko said. “There’s too much money The world’s first wet gin, WET by gins in New Age Martinis.” on the table and the big networks can’t BeefeaterTM is infused with pear essence, It’s these super-premium gins that are let that pass them by.” resulting in a lighter, more refreshing taste. providing the impetus for a mini resur- Imported gin sales are outpacing gence in gin. Brands such as Bombay domestic gins, with imports growing 2.3 WET Sake Martini Sapphire, the first of the “supers” in 1988; percent from 2002 to 2003. By contrast, 2 parts WET by Beefeater Hendrick’s, with infusions of cucumber domestic gins fell 1.3 percent in the same 1 part Sake and rose petals; South, with New Zealand time period. 1 part Plum manuka berries and kawa kawa leaves; and “Gin today is definitely about the premi- 3 thin cucumber wheels Tanqueray Ten, with whole fruits, not just um brands,” said Simon Ford of Plymouth Pour all ingredients into a mixing glass. the zest, are popular super-premium gins. Gin. “This is where the growth is.” Add ice. Shake well for 7-8 seconds. Then there is Wet by Beefeater, an expres- Efren Puente, a senior brand manag- Strain into a chilled martini glass. Garnish with a cucumber wheels. sion of gin designed to be a fresh, light-tast- er for Tanqueray and Tanqueray TEN, ing and highly mixable alternative with the believes that gin is poised for a renais- unique hint of pear flavor. sance. “The American consumer is trad- These new gins are changing the ing up on all beverages and the cocktail aroma and taste profile of standard culture is strong,” Puente said, “The best London Dry Gin by de-emphasizing the brands are benefiting from that.” Gin: the types

Dutch Genever These are the original gins, full-fla- vored and usually consumed neat and cold. They are often a lower proof than other gins and made from a “malt wine” (equal parts corn, bar- ley and rye), then re-distilled with juniper and other botanicals in pot stills. Some are aged in oak casks.

Zuidam Genever, Bols, Boomsma London Dry Gin “The specialty gins The classic gin used in cocktails, London Gin just might be ready to experience the Dry Gin has a higher proof than Dutch are emerging, such Genevers. It’s also drier (as the name dynamism of vodka sales as consumers implies) and has a more pronounced rediscover gin while looking for “the next as Hendrick’s and juniper aroma and flavor. The neutral thing.” The resurgence of the classic Martini spirit is mostly corn, along with barley across the country and the burgeoning and other grains. These gins are made in “Cocktail Culture” also help gin sales. Bombay Sapphire.” column stills. American versions are Larry Kass of Heaven Hill Distilleries, Chris Clifford, often lower proof (80°) and less flavorful makers of Burnett’s White Satin Gin and Saint Elmo Steakhouse, Bloomington, IN than English gins (90°-94.6°). Aristocrat Gin, said that gin benefits from two ’s, Tanqueray, Gordon’s, Gilbey’s, market forces, the strength of flavored vod- DeGroff said that the immensely Burnett’s White Satin, Bombay Original, kas and the rise of cocktails. “Many people in clever, sexy, Hollywood-infused marketing Beefeater the industry are waiting for the gin category campaign for Smirnoff in the 1960s had to break loose, in the next one to five years,” much to do with vodka’s success. Plymouth Gin Kass explained. “Gin people are anxious to Sumindi Peiris, a senior brand manager capitalize on what happened to vodka.” The only legally protected style of gin in for Bombay Sapphire, explained how There’s also the female side of gin the world, Plymouth Gin is produced in women helped vodka’s growth. “As women Plymouth, England, by Coates & Co. from drinkers. Pirko said that gin is the feminine came into the business world in the last a recipe dating to the distillery’s founda- side of vodka’s masculinity. “Gin is fashion- few decades, vodka was seen as more tion in 1793. The original customer was able,” Pirko explained, “and gin sales will grow palatable and easier to drink.” the British Navy. Plymouth Gin uses a as more women move from wine to spirits.” Pirko simply stated: “Gin was penal- higher proportion of sweeter tasting root In the Pre-Mixed Category, Seagram’s Gin ized because it had taste. Vodka did well botanicals such as orris root and angeli- & Juice debuts in the spring, with a sleek new because it had no taste when making ca, and less juniper than London Dry redesign for its entire product line. A new cocktails.” Gins. Two strengths are produced: comer to the line, Red Fury joins five other And there’s the tremendous influence Original (82.4°) and Navy Strength (114°). flavors including, Seagram’s Gin & Juice of Bond - James Bond – and his “shaken, Green Dragon and Blue Beast. Paul A. not stirred” vodka Martini (actually three Old Tom Gin Campbell, Group Director, Seagram’s Gin and parts gin, one part vodka and one-half part This is a lightly sweetened old style Seagram’s Vodka explains “We want to vermouth). of gin from London and rarely found in cement our position in the category by offer- An interesting cultural aspect of the the market. ing a dramatic redesign that will grab the gin-vodka story was offered by DeGroff: attention of customers both new and old.” “The U.S. lost its way in the 1950s with din- Super Premium Gins Seagram’s Gin already has a very loyal follow- ing and drinking by consuming processed, These gins have less of a dominant ing of gin connoisseurs nationwide. refined foods that were all similar. There juniper aroma and flavor, emphasizing was hardly any ethnic food except for botanicals, many of which have never So Why Did Gin Decline? Chinese restaurants. We even gave babies before been used in gins. Most are high- Vodka is the bugaboo of gin sales. Gin processed food. But gin, with its big flavor, er in proof than traditional gins. was the white spirit of choice for cocktails was still popular. When we found our way until the 1960s, when vodka began its Bombay Sapphire, Tanqueray Ten, in the late 1960s and into the 1970s and domineering march to its more than one- Hendrick’s, South, Junípero (a micro gin, beyond with food and drink flavors, the closer to a London Dry style), Citadelle, quarter share of spirits sales. Many rea- opposite happened with gin as people went Damrak, Magellan, Miller’s, Broker’s. sons are given for vodka’s success. to the flavorless and odorless vodka.” The Classic Ingredient

“Someone once said that ‘A bar with- out gin is like an Italian kitchen without pasta’. No other liquor pro- vides for the creation of so many classic cocktails. Gin is in fact a liquor that is harmonious with almost anything.” Many mixologists agree. Gin is one of the original ingredients of the Martini, the most famous of all gin cocktails. The other ingredient is white vermouth. Originally the Martini was mixed at a ratio of two parts gin to one part vermouth, but it’s become drier over the years. Gin in Bars & Restaurants Here are some special gin cocktail recipes: and Retail Stores Red Snapper Murray Stenson, a Seattle mixologist currently at the Zig Zag Café, said that his 50 ml Plymouth Gin 15 ml fresh lemon juice customers order gin primarily for 2 dashes Tabasco sauce Martinis. He explained that these cus- 3 dashes Worcester sauce tomers are mostly requesting the super- 1 pinch celery salt premium gins, such as Tanqueray Ten, 1 pinch ground black pepper Bombay Sapphire, Plymouth, Junipero 100 ml tomato juice and Miller’s. “I appreciate gin,” Stenson Sapphire Compuesta said. “It has a character of its own.” 3 parts Bombay Sapphire At the Saint Elmo Steakhouse in 2 parts Martini Rosso Bloomington, IN, Chris Clifford said that 1 shot Benedictine gin remains a strong seller. “The special- Red Curaçao ty gins are emerging,” Clifford Grand Marnier explained, “such as Hendrick’s and Pineapple Syrup Bombay Sapphire.” TEN Ricky 1 1 /2 oz Tanqueray TEN Many bartenders believe that gin enhances a cocktail 1 1 /5 oz fresh lime juice with its intrinsic flavors, whereas vodka, being neutral, 1 oz sour mix Top with soda must rely on other ingredients to add all the flavors of WET Ginger Martini the cocktail. 1 1 /4 oz Wet by Beefeater 1 Thad Norlinger of Cellars & gins.” This ultimate Gin & Tonic allows the 1 /4 oz HW Sour Apple 1oz orange juice Spirits in Woodbury, MN, also sees his cus- Per Se bartenders to tailor quinine and Splash of lemon juice tomers moving to the super-premium gins, gins individually. Instant dissolving bar sugar as the gin category consolidates and the Many bartenders believe that gin 1 sliced piece ginger root lower tier gins drop off. “Big sellers for us are enhances a cocktail with its intrinsic fla- Hendrick’s, Tanqueray Ten, Plymouth and vors, whereas vodka, being neutral, must The South Henley Boodles,” Norlinger said. “And Bombay rely on other ingredients to add all the fla- 30 ml South Gin Sapphire is on fire.” vors of the cocktail. 15 ml Pimm's Dash of sugar syrup Per Se is an upscale restaurant in “Gin is a big flavor spirit,” DeGroff stated. 5 sprigs of mint New York City where the bartenders “Gin has very loyal customers,” Ford 50 mls apple juice make quinine water from scratch for explained, “and the movers and shakers in 50 mls guava nectar their Gin & Tonics. the industry know about gin.” “We found pharmaceutical-grade qui- Perhaps the new super-premium gins, Strawberry Jive nine on the internet” said Paul Roberts, coupled with a new generation’s interest in 50 ml Hendrick's Gin beverage director and master sommelier cocktails, will revive gin’s fortunes. The 2 basil leaves Martini has been around a long time and 4 mint leaves and a mint sprig for the Thomas Keller Restaurant Group, 2 strawberries which owns Per Se. “We add one-eighth has a rich heritage upon which to draw. As 20 ml simple syrup teaspoon of this dry quinine powder to Robert Benchley is quoted as having said: A couple dashes fresh lemon juice sparkling water from Wales, plus a little bit “Why don’t you slip out of those wet 30 ml fresh orange juice of lime juice, and then mix it with different clothes and into a dry Martini?” ■