more pages 44Ðand itÕs still free! NOVEMBER 1, 1997 Every Two Weeks

Published during the austral summer for the United States Antarctic Program at McMurdo Station, .

150 Days, 175 Ways So little time, so much to do AntarcticaÕs Snow White: by Lynn Simarski ThatÕs the number of Not a Disney Character 175 research projects being photos and story by Alexander Colhoun undertaken by researchers funded by the National Science Foundation in Antarctica this summer. With projects ranging from astronomy and astrophysics to biology and oceanography it is certain to be a season of discovery and scientific achievement for the United States Antarctic Program. Discovery beneath the earthÕs ice, ocean and crust are major thrusts of the program. ...cont. on page 2

INSIDE 150 Days, 175 Ways ÐThe USAP has an impressive line-up of science pro- jects on the agenda for this season; but with just 150 days to complete all 175 projects, time is the biggest enemy. ItÕs Safe To Drink ÐDrink up! Lead levels are down in McMurdoÕs water and Scott Perkins explains why.

IGY +40 Ð1997 is the 40th anniver- Alexander Colhoun photo by sary of the International Bobbing contentedly in frigid Antarctic waters, Snow White, a Weddell Seal, peers at Dr. Lee Fuiman. Snow Geophysical Year. Guy Guthridge WhiteÕs foraging strategies will be studied using a highly sophisticated recording device attached to her back looks back at events that set the with a neoprene harness. stage for todayÕs Antarctic research. acing through dimly lit waters under Like the sealÕs hunt for food, however, Withdraw From Cape Roberts ÐA Reight feet of sea ice, Snow White dives DavisÕ project has not been easy. harrowing escape from the Cape to the ocean floor in search of prey. Insulated in Last weekÕs raging storm, complete with 60 RobertÕs drilling rig leaves scien- two inches of fat, her torpedo-like torso zips knot winds, was just one in a series of chal- tists and drillers happy to be alive through the icy waters without so much as a but disappointed with a project cut lenges thrown in DavisÕ path. For the last short by nature. shiver. month, Davis and his team have attempted to Updates ÐStation and ship updates This Snow White is no Walt Disney cre- isolate a Weddell seal in a sea ice hole Ña thir- from across the continent and ation. ty year old strategy used to observe seals in around the globe. Highlight: The She is a Leptonychotes weddellii, or their natural environment. Surrounded by miles R/V Nathaniel B. Palmer. Weddell seal, and it is the study of her foraging of ice in every direction, the seal is free to dive Perspectives ÐCoffee House lattes techniques that Dr. Randal Davis, a marine but must always return to the hole. Powerful in and plastic glasses of wine are biologist from Texas A&M University, and his its simplicity, the theory is not foolproof. The scrutinized as McMurdoÕs build- team have come to study. first two seals Davis put in the hole made cun- ings are reviewed for maximum utility and fuel efficiency. ÒThis feat is analogous to a lion or other ning escapes. ÒIt looked like they were navigating off Profile ÐBeyond Wanderlust: A large terrestrial predator holding its breath painter by trade, a traveler by while it locates, pursues and captures prey,Ó (Mount) Erebus,Ó said Dr. Terrie Williams, a choice, Rubin Cashler takes travel explains Davis. University of California Santa Cruz researcher and life to a new dimension. ...cont. on page 5 2 November 1, 1997 The Antarctic Sun

150 days... -cont. from page 1 Scientists believe West AntarcticaÕs ice Pole, on through the earth, and occasionally Three major projects will drill for core sam- may be the most vulnerable to melting, there- strike AMANDAÕs detectors. ples that scientists hope will reveal clues by raising global sea levels. Current changes In addition, scientists will install a new about the Antarctic past. in the ice sheet could be on-going responses telescope at called VIPER, which to the end of the last ice age, pointing to rapid In a joint U.S.-Russian-French venture, will observe cosmic background radiation left melting, or they may only be local effects. scientists will complete drilling of the worldÕs over from the big bang. Study of the annual layers of ice from Siple deepest ice core this season at RussiaÕs Other major changes are afoot at the will yield answers to these questions and Vostok Station. Drilling stopped in January, South Pole. In early December, NSF will for- should ultimately improve predictions of cli- 1996 at a depth of 3,350 meters. Covering mally begin constructing a new station at the mate change. more than 400,000 years of snowfall, this South Pole. During the first phase of con- core spans four glacial-interglacial cycles, Improved understanding of climate mod- struction a new garage and shop, fuel storage furnishing an archive of information on past els will also come from another project, but system, and power plant will be built. The climate history. This season drillers will com- this one will be sea-bourne. The growth and new Atmospheric Research Observatory will plete the project, plumbing about 175 more shrinkage of the sea ice around Antarctica be dedicated in January, replacing the over- meters of ice and stopping 50 meters above may be the greatest seasonal event on Earth. crowded and aging Clean Air Facility. The so as not to contaminate the Scientists aboard the Nathaniel B. Palmer, ARO will offer twice the space of its prede- body of water sealed beneath the ice sheet. NSFÕs ice-breaking research ship, will com- cessor for research on climate, ozone, ultravi- pare ice and snow on the surface with how In a major international effort the United olet light, and other atmospheric studies. they appear in satellite images. Actual obser- States Antarctic Program and five other These are just a sampling of the projects vations of ice on the surface help to validate nations planned to extract two cores from the that will be undertaken this season. But with computer models of climate by making simu- floor of the , placing the drill rig on an all-too-brief summer season of 150 days to lations of sea ice more accurate. sea ice off Cape Roberts, about 70 miles get their work done, scientists in Antarctica north of McMurdo Station. While sea ice and ice caps are studied, surely have their hands full. other scientists will turn their attentions to the Unfortunately, unstable ice conditions due For summaries of all field projects of the heavens above. AntarcticaÕs summer weather to a major storm on the Ross Sea, stopped the U.S. Antarctic Program during the 1997-98 provides a stable ride for instruments tethered drilling for this season. Although this devel- season, request publication NSF 97-167 from beneath research balloons. These cost-effec- opment was disappointing, early core samples [email protected] or call 301-947-2722. This tive monitors sail miles above Antarctica, from Cape Roberts fill a gap in previously document is also on the NSF Web site at providing a cheaper way to get scientific ✹ recovered sedimentary records. www.nsf.gov. experiments into space. This season a spec- The Cape Roberts Project will continue trometer will float for 10 days around the next season with hopes of collecting cores continent, tracking gamma rays emitted by that will reach 30-100 million years back in neutron stars, black holes and other features time. Scientists believe these cores will shed in the galaxy. Snow Jobs by Ben Mann light on the stability of AntarcticaÕs ice sheets Balloons soaring above will rise through during this time. the ozone, more than half of which disappears During the three-year project, a joint ven- each spring. This ozone hole permits the ture between the United States, , sunÕs ultraviolet-B (UV-B) radiation to pene- the , , , and trate the earthÕs surface and the sea. , will analyze the cores at McMurdo Scientists will study how UV-B affects Station as they emerge, with a preliminary the embryos and larvae of three key inverte- report available at the field seasonÕs end. brates living in shallow waters off the U.S. In yet another drilling project, a 1,000- Palmer Station on the . meter core will be extracted from West While Palmer scientists study shallow AntarcticaÕs , a mound of ice that waters, scientists at the South Pole will be rests between two fast-flowing ice streams. looking a bit deeper. The Antarctic Muon and These streams drain the West Antarctic ice Neutrino Detector Array (AMANDA) is a sheet and are critical to its stability. telescope buried in the ice cap at the South Pole. AMANDA looks downward into the S ANTARCT The Antarctic Sun, part of the United TE IC A T PR S O D G E R earth for telltale traces of neutrinos. T States Antarctic Program, is funded by the I A N M U National Science Foundation. Opinions ★ ★ ★ ★ Leading the nascent field of neutrino ★ ★ ★ ★ and conclusions expressed in The Sun ★ ★ N A N astronomy, AMANDA studies the ghostly T O are not necessarily those of the I I O T N A A D L S UN Foundation. CIENCE FO subatomic particles emitted from such Editor: Alexander Colhoun sources in space as supernova remnants, pul- Publisher: Valerie Carroll, ASA. sars, neutron stars, or active galactic nucleii. ÒOh come on, how hard can it be? Turn left Contributions are welcome. Contact The Sun at at the third glacier, head past the flags...Ó [email protected]. In McMurdo, visit our office in The neutrinos pass right through the North Building 155 or dial 2407. Web address: http://www.asa.org The Antarctic Sun November 1, 1997 3

Sea Swell Sidelines Cape Roberts Project

n the end it was a mere thirty millimeters Iof sea swell beneath the ice that brought the Cape Roberts project to its knees. It doesnÕt sound like much. End to end the standard door key is twice that long; but sixteen kilometers off the coast of Antarctica, 30 millimeters of move- ment feels like a trampoline bounce. The same storm that pummeled McMurdo and Black Island Ñstripping a Jamesway struc- Alexander Colhoun photo by ture away with itÑ raced out over Cape Roberts Cape RobertÕs scientists were rewarded with their first glimpses at core samples last week. Little did they know and into the Ross Sea, creating sea swells that their entire project was in jeopardy as a major storm descended on Cape Roberts and the Ross Sea, breaking worked their way back under the ice. up ice and leaving the drilling rig and its crew in a precarious situation. At 3 a.m. last Friday morning the call came ÒThe rules were set and they lived by them,Ó ÒWe have made some significant finds, in to project manager and native New Zealander, said Steve Dunbar, McMurdoÕs search and rescue proven that the technology works in this environ- Jim CowieÕs office. The rig was struggling. With team leader. In this case, living by the rules prob- ment, and built operational and science teams that each swell the drilling bit lifted off the core, ably saved lives. ÒIt was a perilous situation,Ó put us in good stead for next year,Ó said Barrett. allowing the massive engines to whine in high said Jim Cowie, who is certain the right choice Another hole is planned to be drilled in October gear. As the swell decreased the drill bit lowered was made. 1998. and found purchase with the core, grinding the Despite the early withdraw of the rig, scien- Back at Cape Roberts, after the rig had been engine to a near halt. tists can still point to significant achievements. safely moved, a feeling of despondency overcame The sea swells, at times lifting the ice 60 mil- According to Scott Borg, the National Science the team. ÒThere was a real air of sadness that we limeters, set CowieÕs team into action and the Foundation science representative in Antarctica, couldnÕt pull it off,Ó said Jim Cowie. ÒBut our crew was quickly evacuated to the Cape Roberts nearly 150 meters of core, some of which has contingency plans worked extremely well, it was base camp. An aerial reconnaissance of the area been dated at 17 to 22 million years old, was an act of nature that got us.Ó after the storm revealed a shocking sight. recovered from below the ocean. Some of these For the most part, however, Cowie was short ÒWe were in the air and looking westward sediments fill a gap in current records and will be on pessimism. ÒThereÕs unfinished business when lo and behold, suddenly we saw huge open important in the overall picture of paleoenviron- here,Ó he said. ÒItÕs as simple as that.Ó water cracks, just one kilometer away from the mental evolution. rig,Ó said Jim Cowie. ÒRight then I knew we had ÒItÕs a period of time not sampled before near ÑÑÑÑÑÑÑÑÑÑÑÑÑÑÑÑ a major failure of the fast ice.Ó the big Antarctic ice sheet,Ó said chief project sci- The Cape Roberts Project, 75 miles north of McMurdo These fresh sea ice cracks were just the entist Peter Barrett. A team of about 50 scientists Station, involves funding and science collaboration from the beginning. From the air Cowie noted massive at the drill site and McMurdo Station have been United States, Italy, New Zealand, Germany, Britain and Australia. It is managed by Antarctica New Zealand. It aims water surges over the ice that were beginning to pouring over the rock since first recovered on refreeze, creating thousands of pounds of extra to determine ancient climactic conditions to support October 17th. research into predicting the effects on the ice sheet of any weight on the ice. Project leaders had hoped to drill a second future climate changes. ✹ Twenty-four hours later the entire drilling rig hole closer to shore to reach rocks expected to be had been moved 25 kilometers back to base camp in the 30-70 million year old range. But after a and safety. In the process not a single person was four-hour meeting at the site on Sunday it was Chapel injured. The only loss was the sea-riser system, decided this was not feasible due to the condition of the which sits at the bottom of the sea. of the sea ice platform. Snows Yet this story could easily have taken a differ- Peter Barrett said the project team had ent line. With millions of dollars, six nations and worked exceptionally hard to establish the camp untold prestige on the line, the pressure to contin- Sundays: through bitter weather, to recover rock from a dif- Catholic Service 9:30 AM ue operations might have been overwhelming ficult hole, and then to evacuate the drill site at Protestant Service 11:00 AM were it not for stringent guidelines established short notice. Wednesdays: months earlier. Prayer and Praise at 7:30 PM 4 November 1, 1997 The Antarctic Sun ItÕs safe to drink: Did You Know... Lead levels Down in McMurdo by Brenda Joyce by Scott Perkins The South Polar Skua is found far- ItÕs 6:30 a.m. as you head to the bathroom To improve the situation even more, a ther south than any other bird in the world? to brush your teeth. Forcing your eyes open scale model of the water plant was built and a Some have been observed by explorers on the you slowly focus on a sign taped to the sink number of chemical tests were performed to ice sheet, and even at the geographic South with silver duct tape: Please Do Not Use. Too determine how to decrease the waterÕs ten- Pole. The skua has a strong homing instinct. early to ask profound questions, you diligent- dency to pick up lead. Results showed that an Five nesting birds were tagged, flown to the ly move to the next sink. For that choice, increase in calcium hardness, alkalinity and South Pole and released. Ten days later one of ASAÕs environmental engineering department, pH in the water plant were needed to mini- these birds had returned to its nest after an thanks you. mize the uptake of lead throughout the sys- 800 mile flight over a barren, featureless ter- The first sink you chose is part of an tem. rain. experiment. The water in these pipes is being To accomplish the necessary changes on a tested for lead. This is an on-going project to large scale, the water treatment process had to McMurdo has a winter garden? understand McMurdo StationÕs water/lead sit- be optimized and modified. These modifica- Salads were served every lunch and dinner uation and to decrease any lead levels found. tions were implemented on a part-time basis from March through September from this In a new test implemented by the during WINFLY for testing purposes. They oasis. The winter population of 155 people Environmental Protection Agency, samples of proved to be quite successful and will be missed only 5 days of home-grown water that sit in pipes for eight to 12 hours implemented on a full-time basis when the ÒfreshiesÓ. A crop of 680 lbs. of lettuce, 70 Ðrepresenting a worst caseÐ are tested for lead necessary supplies arrive on the M/V lbs. of tomatoes, 51 lbs. of cucumbers, 62 lbs. content. This test was conducted at McMurdo Greenwave in February. of peppers and 25 lbs. of herbs were grown in 1994. Results showed lead was leaching In the meantime, testing will continue, so without soil. A nutrient-rich solution pro- from the lead solder used to connect the pipes please heed the signs posted on various sinks duced a constant harvest in our hydroponic during construction many years ago. and donÕt run the taps if they are taped off. greenhouse. Additionally, NSF requested testing to What you should know: determine how quickly lead levels would ¥ Flushing the taps is the best way to Antarctica maps were drawn three drop while the water was running. Tests ensure safe drinking water in buildings centuries before its ÒdiscoveryÓ in 1818. Piri showed lead levels decrease well below safe 107, 137, 138, 142, 144, 155 (not includ- Reis' map, painted on a gazelle skin in 1531, levels within 30 seconds of flushing. ing the galley), 160, 166, 182, 188, 201, was rediscovered in the Old Imperial Palace's Recommendations to flush pipes for 30 to 204, 207 and 208. Flushing is not neces- library in Constantinople in 1929. Reis, in his 60 seconds were made to the McMurdo com- sary at any other buildings on station. own writing on the chart, noted he was not munity. This flushing would ensure the water ¥ Adults normally pass 97 percent of all the originator of the map, but had copied would be safe for even those most susceptible lead ingested. from ancient sources. The Oronteus Finacus to lead poisoning: females in their first ¥ Lead levels are set by the EPA to protect map of 1531 was included in Mercator's Atlas trimester of pregnancy. growing children and pregnant women. of 1569. In 1737, Philipp Buache published a ÒThe risk to 99% of the population here is ¥ Lead levels would have to be much high- map showing dimensions beneath the ice not negligible,Ó said Scott Perkins. ÒThe only sus- er to pose a health threat to adult males verified until 1958, when a comprehensive ceptible person would be a pregnant female. and non-pregnant females. seismic survey was completed during the Every once and a while we get that person, ¥ For more information contact Scott Perkins, International Geophysical Year. and we have to protect her too.Ó Building 192. Extension 2386. ✹ Changes last year in the water treatment process resulted in a 50 percent Paul Siple first came to Antarctica reduction in lead levels. This was a as a Boy Scout? Winner of a nationwide significant improvement over past Scouting contest, he was 19 years old during years. Byrd's 1928 expedition. His skills with dog handling persuaded Byrd to allow him to join the winter team. Trained in taxidermy, Siple skinned seals on the mess table, providing McMurdo Recreation meat to the cook for dinner, and sent the pelts Gallaghers - Country Music Night on Thursdays (Bring music). to the American Museum of Natural History. Tue-Fri 7-11pm, Sat 7pm -1am, Sun 4-10pm. Day Bar open on TUE & THU 8am -11am AND SAT 8-12am Losing his first flock, he kept 14 Emperors Southern Exposure - Bingo & Karaoke on alternating Weds. TUE-FRI 7-11pm, SAT 7pm -1am, SUN 4-10pm. and 6 AdŽlies alive for American zoos on an Coffee House -watch the scroll for Acoustic Nights. TUE-FRI 7-10pm, SAT 7-12pm, SUN 3-9pm. experimental diet of seal meat and blubber. Bowling Alley - Sat 7-9pm, Sun 2-5pm. Ceramics -THU & FRI 6:30-8:30pm, SUN 2-5pm. Gear Rental - Skis, Bikes, CDs Musical Instruments, climbing shoes. Call 2443. The Antarctic Sun November 1, 1997 5

Weddell Seals Hovering above it as he speaks, Collier the plastic coated pill? When a cold fish is cont. from page 1 secures the last fittings on the high-tech devise caught by the seal and enters the stomach the before its first Antarctic test run. ÒWeÕll be pill sends a signal of decreased temperature to and one of four principal investigators on the using JAVA tools, a basic internet program, to the computer. project. ÒThey took a bead on the volcano and navigate through our virtual ocean.Ó But why have these researchers chosen the were gone.Ó Not that there isnÕt plenty of ocean around Weddell seal? One answer is deceptively sim- While this Ôseal reconnaissanceÕ concept is him. What Collier is talking about is the 3D ple: they are docile. With few predators under only theory, Williams and the team chose to rendition of the ocean he will create to trace water and none above the ice, Weddells are err on the side of caution and erected a ply- Snow WhiteÕs path as she plunges, accelerates people friendly and will tolerate the interaction wood blind around the third isolation hole to and glides through the ocean depths in search required to change the VDAP III Ðattached on prevent this kind of seal reconnoitering. of food. her back to a neoprene vest that slips around The effort appears to have paid off. Snow In fact, the VDAP III can monitor sensory her girthÐ on a regular basis. White, the third seal, now calls a five foot information on several fronts with both an Thus far, Snow White appears to be adapt- diameter hole in the Ross Sea her home. But audio and a video channel. ÒOur model will ing well to her new environment, an adjust- this success is only the ment that begs the question: how very beginning of this does the seal feel about all this project, scheduled to be research? carried out over three ÒWeÕve tried to make the years. device hydro-dynamic and neu- Back in McMurdo, trally buoyant,Ó said Davis, who Dr. DavisÕ Crary Lab with Williams tested previous room looks more like an VDAPs on Navy-trained dol- electronics pawn shop phins. ÒToday she seems relaxed. than a biology laborato- She is not frightened when we ry. Boxes, wires, disas- stand by the holeÓ said an sembled computers and encouraged Davis. ÒSheÕs fishing gadgets of every imagin- and hunting. These are all hall- able size are spread out marks that she is settling into the in disarray as he and his hole.Ó team organize gear head- In the weeks to come a small ed for the ice hole. field camp will be established Past seal researchers, around the site, and a Jamesway including DavisÕ own will be erected over the hole. To mentor, Dr. Gerry collect gas intake and exhalation Kooyman, have attached information, yet another plastic time depth recorders cover, much like a skylight, will Ðsimple but accurate be placed over the hole. instruments that etched Alexander Colhoun photo by The research will continue scores on gold leaf According to Dr, Randy Davis, Snow White appears to have adjusted will to her new sur- day and night through mid- platesÐ to their subjects. roundings. ÒSheÕs fishing and hunting,Ó said Davis. ÒThese are hallmarks she is settling into the hole.Ó December, or until the sea ice In contrast, DavisÕ begins to weaken. Meanwhile, team has an array of elec- Davis hopes Snow White will tronics gear that would make James Bond show the sealÕs depth, bearing and speed,Ó said grow more and more accustomed to her new envious, including a plastic-coated stomach Collier. Combining this data with the sealÕs environment and the scientists. pill that will relay messages to the Weddell- EKG rhythms, stroke frequencies, audio infor- As she looked up into WilliamsÕ camera on board computer as she jets through the water. mation, and running video, the team will have a sunny afternoon not long ago, Snow White In addition, recognizing AmericaÕs call to volumes of information to combine into what seemed to be doing just fine. Releasing a long, science: do more for less, Shane Collier, the will be the first natural view of a Weddell hollow breath of warm moist air, she covered computer systems leader of the project, is sealÕs hunting behavior. the camera lens with a fine salt water spray. using a 100 megahertz laptop PC and internet ÒWeÕre getting information no one has Then, with a wink and a long pull of dry tools anyone with a modem can download in ever seen before,Ó explains Dr. Lee Fuiman, a Antarctic air, Snow White plunged into the minutes. University of Texas-Austin biologist. ÒUsing a depths of the Ross sea. ✹ But the primary research tool is a techno- 3D picture weÕll see if the seal has a hunting logical marvel that reaches beyond gadgetry, plan.Ó Other questions Fuiman hopes to linking a range of cutting edge technologies answer include how the seals locate prey, how from computer enhanced 3D imaging to high often they miss, and how long they handle the speed computer graphics. Known as a Video prey they do catch. DonÕt miss Data Acquisition Platform, or VDAP III, the In addition to the depth, bearing and speed Observations black, football sized electronic apparatus looks recordings, the team will know when the ani- From the OB Tube on page 12. like a modified VCR in disguise. mal has successfully captured prey. Remember 6 November 1, 1997 The Antarctic Sun

We continued to Palmer and had to plow our Crowley and Paul Huckins. way through solid ice all the way into the bay. To On loan from Columbia University, head fromAntarcticstationsand ships facilitate landing and loading operations, Capt. SeaBeam technician Suzanne OÕHara is also FOCUS: Joe Borkowski and crew spun the NBP around serving as resident cook, aerobics instructor, and and used the ship like a giant Waring blender to den mother. She sometimes answers to ÒJulie Research Vessel blast a passage through the ice. McCoy, cruise director.Ó Give that girl a clip- Nathaniel B. Palmer The inlet looked like one huge margarita. board and a whistle and watch her go! by Otis Tavlin, Marine Tech Our return passage was uneventful, except While weather was a little rough the first ten This month has seen a lot of action for the during departure loading operations when gale days with winds up to forty knots and waves up Nathaniel B. Palmer. We had an easy crossing of force winds flung a piano-size crate off a flat bed to 18 feet, midpoint conditions have abated the Drake passage on our way to set up the Copa truck and into the water between the ship and the somewhat and weÕve enjoyed calm winds, Cabana camp on King George Island Ðan obser- dock. Thanks to an alert response from Chief smooth seas and sunny skies have allowed us to vation hut staffed with three scientists who will Mate Lee Crowe and the Edison Chouest off- get a lot more work done and spend quite a bit of remain five months to study three different shore crew, as well as from our own marine time outside. Marine Tech Herb Baker even species of penguins, and to drop off the new techs, disaster was averted. The crate was saved found time to put out his trolling lure, but so far crew at Palmer Station. with no damage to equipment or crew. the only thing heÕs pulled in has been a pair of The Copa landing went off without a hitch Science projects and data-gathering during menÕs underwear. thanks to the excellent planning of marine pro- our passage to New Zealand are going smoothly, ...the NBP arrived in Port Lyttleton on 28 jects coordinator Al Hickey and human dynamo thanks to the team efforts of Chief Scientist October and is scheduled to depart on 5 John Evans, who makes the Energizer Bunny Nancy Bowers and computer techs Rich Iszard- November. look geriatric.

South Pole Station by David Fischer to South Pole on 29 October. Siple Dome per- Field Support by Jill Ferris South PoleÕs winter crew is anxiously sonnel are heading out 28 October to open the Two field camps officially opened this awaiting arrival of the incoming summer crew. camp. McMurdo population continues to climb week. R. , M. Mellon and B. Miller, three Flights have been delayed due to extremely cold towards the 1,000-person level and will continue well-seasoned field camp construction personnel, temperatures for this time of year. All will be to rise for a few more weeks. ItÕs getting very went to the Dry Valleys for several days to open busily preparing for main station opening next cozy. the Taylor Valley camps and were out for almost week, finishing snowclearing around summer a week due to bad weather. Lake Hoare camp camp and completing final preparations of the Christchurch, NZ by Brian Stone opened for the season and P. Adkins is back for skiway. Within the next few weeks South Pole Coinciding with the NBP port call, the another season as the camp supervisor. The Siple will be up to its maximum population of 183 for Lyttleton Harbor Board has scheduled an ÒOpen Dome camp staff and science construction crew the season. DayÓ for 2 November, in which the NBP will be were put into the deep field on 28 October. prominently featured. Recent communications Reports from the field indicated that four Palmer Station by Ron Nugent from Moscow indicate ten personnel from the Jamesways left up for the winter held up well and that heat was on shortly after the crew Storms that brought high winds, snow, and Russian Antarctic Program will arrive in arrived. K. Killilea will supervise a crew of ten rain allowed only one day of boating operations. Christchurch on 11 November. As in the past, the ASA folks to support operations at Siple Dome. After the weather eased, brash ice blew in that Russians have asked the NSF to procure food will take another major storm to break up. and other supplies to be shipped to McMurdo to Elephant and Crabeater Seals, Giant and Snow support the opening of Vostok Station in ASA, Denver by Ron Koger Petrels, Blue Eyed Cormorants and Adelie and November. ASA launched its second Internal Panel. In Gentoo penguins can be seen. addition to looking for ways to reduce costs, the Due to the delayed delivery of the R/V Research Ships by Jon Alberts panel will work to identify areas for performance LAURENCE M. GOULD the station will As part of the Joint Global Ocean Flux improvement and also areas that irritate and have receive limited incoming cargo and will not send Study (JGOFS), the R/V ROGER REVELLE an adverse impact on employee morale. Linda cargo until February. Passengers and limited arrived in Lyttelton, New Zealand on 14 October Harber is the chairperson of the ten-person panel. cargo will arrive on three tour ships and a 1997 to test and set up equipment from 16 uni- Anyone can send email suggestions to *INTER- NOAA chartered vessel. versities represented by 34 scientists for the NAL PANEL (listed under DENVER_GROUPS). SURVEY I cruise. The ship is Harber will be the only person retrieving these McMurdo Station by Stan Wisneski operated by the Scripps Institution of messages. Several employees including the project McMurdo was slammed with a three day Oceanography in La Jolla, California and will be director and deputy project director completed storm on 22 to 24 October, that caused visibility involved in four cruises as part of the JGOFS two days of training on Critical Incident Stress to deteriorate to the point that you could not see program. It will be focusing on the area known Management, an approach for the reduction and two feet in front of you. McMurdo was placed as the Antarctic Polar Frontal Zone at the ice control of harmful aspects of stress in emergency in Condition One (all movement is restricted) for edge while the R/V NATHANIEL B. PALMER services. ASA intends to develop a CISM pro- approximately 24 hours. South Pole personnel will continue with the JGOFS work further south. have arrived in McMurdo and are hoping to get ...cont. on page 11 The Antarctic Sun November 1, 1997 7

a five-part series by Guy G. Guthridge Manager, Antarctic Information IGY+40 National Science Foundation, Polar Programs

Forty years ago 60,000 scientists from 66 nations took part in what has been called the greatest peacetime activity in history Ðthe International Geophysical Year, from July 1, 1957 to December 31, 1958. One of the IGYÕs most prominent achievements was the opening of Antarctica to modern science. In this first segment of a five-part series, Guy G. Guthridge looks back at events that set the stage for todayÕs antarctic research. From Montparnasse to McMurdo n international conference in 1955 Vostok Station remains active there today. Rear Admiral George J. Dufek, Anear the summit of Montparnasse in The United States committed itself to the Commander of the Naval Support Force Paris, France, set in motion a sequence of geographic South Pole. Antarctica, was confident he had enough ships actions that determined the scientific and polit- The work planned for Antarctica was and icebreakers to establish the coastal stations ical fate of an entire continent. The meeting unprecedented. Before the IGY less than half using fairly normal sea-based procedures. assembled scientists from 11 nations planning of Antarctica had even been seen, and as late Byrd Station and Amundsen-Scott at 90¡S, IGY research in Antarctica, and their job was as 1955 only 179 people wintered at 20 small the South Pole, were another story: they need- to decide where each nation would place its coastal stations operated by four nations. For ed special approaches. research facilities. the IGY, 912 people would winter at 48 sta- Dufek realized he would have to establish A dramatic event was selection of the tions of 11 nations, and the summer population logistics and supply depots for the two inland nation to build and maintain a research station would reach 5,000 Ðmore than today. stations before the close of the 1955-1956 aus- at the geographic South Pole. Vladimir Besides the South Pole, the Montparnasse tral summer. He decided one of the planned Beloussov of the Soviet Union created a sen- meeting awarded five other research locations research stations, Little America V, would be sation by saying his country would place a sta- to the United States. Four were to be coastal the staging base for Byrd. A logistics center to tion near the Pole. Laurence M. Gould, the stations ÐEllsworth on the Filchner Ice Shelf, be called Naval Air Facility McMurdo, on the U.S. delegate, had made it known the United Wilkes below Australia, Hallett (to be operated southern tip of Ross Island, would be estab- States had a similar intention. with New Zealand) in Victoria Land on the lished as the coastal base for South Pole. Sensing an opportunity to retain the presti- Ross Sea, Little America V at Kainan Bay on The icebreaker USS Glacier arrived in gious location for Western researchers, the the Ross Ice Shelf. The fifth was to be inland McMurdo Sound on 18 December 1955, just French chair, Georges Laclav•re, pointed out a ÐByrd, in the center of . five months after the planners at Montparnasse vast cavity in IGY coverage in . In America the National Academy of concluded their meeting. The arrival signaled Behind-the-scenes maneuvers are said to have Sciences planned the science while; financial the beginning of U.S. readiness for the IGY occurred. When Beloussov next took the floor support was through the National Science and commenced a continuous American pres- he said, ÒWe do not insist on the geographic Foundation. Unlike todayÕs central manage- ence on Hut Point Peninsula that continues pole.Ó The Soviet Union took responsibility ment at NSF, Congress directly funded the today. ✹ for the geomagnetic pole in East Antarctica; U.S. Navy to provide all logistics and support.

The two juvenile Emperor Penguins made their way around McMurdo last week. Starting with a morning inspection of the sea ice training class, they pro- ceeded to the ice runway for an afternoon review of operations there before dis- appearing across the ice. Alexander Colhoun photo by 8 November 1, 1997 The Antarctic Sun The Crud by Anne Vick Ask Aunt Arctica It starts with a sore throat, aches, a runny nose . . . advice for staying healthy on the Ice and maybe even a headache. Together these symp- Aunt Arctica is written by a clinical psychotherapist from Washington state toms make you feel like a candidate for a Sudafed with eight years experience working in individual counseling, specializing in commercial. As one surviving mechanic describes it, cognitive and transpersonal psychologies for personal growth. Please write with any questions you may have. You need not include your name. All ÒYour body feels like itÕs got an overfilled crankcase queries will be confidential. with 90 weight oil at 40 below.Ó Everyone in McMurdo knows these crud symp- Question: IÕve just arrived at McMurdo. IÕm here for the first time and have con- toms and at some point in his/her ice career has prob- ably caught it, but what exactly is The Crud? tracted to work for the summer. I was thrilled at first to be here, but I'm finding that this According to Dr. Gerald Katz, a physician advi- excitement is waning, as I am in a job that keeps me indoors all day. This does not fit the sor for ASA, The Crud is an upper respiratory infec- image I had of seeing Antarctica. IÕm wondering what I can do to adjust to being here tion that usually lasts seven to fourteen days. and keep myself feeling in good spirits. ItÕs a long haul between now and re-deployment, Symptoms can resemble those of mild influenza. and IÕm already missing home. Although the exact infectious agent is unknown, it presents itself as an upper respiratory illness and is Psychologist Albert Ellis once said that balanced, full life. If we ignore any one of most likely spread through respiratory transmission, experience is the only thing we are guaran- them, we ask too much of the other two. It such as sneezing and coughing, which launches viral teed in life. Remember that your perspective is like sitting on a stool with only two legs - or bacterial particles into the air. As for avoiding of your experience is everything. you may find yourself on the floor. these unpleasant particles, thereÕs not much that can All of us came here as part of some HereÕs my list of ways to keep life bal- be done in such close quarters short of surgical masks individual journey, maybe with expectations anced. Add or delete, until you find what and isolation. that may not fit the reality you are now works for you. The formula is Mind, Body, So if youÕre one of the 15-25 percent of the experiencing. It is important to acknowledge and Spirit. McMurdo population who has succumbed to the the reasons you came here and to keep those 1) Exercise. Not only does it ensure you crud, the question becomes: how is it treated? For the goals in mind. will remain healthy and enable your most part, over-the-counter medications such as Meanwhile, it is equally important to let immune system to fight the dreaded Ibuprofen, Tylenol, decongestants, and cough syrups, your experience happen. Allow yourself the crud, it significantly reduces the which are available at both Aurora Storealis and the flexibility of exploring what other levels of opportunity for depression. Get out- medical clinic, will do the job. Occasionally, a pre- meaning you can bring to this for yourself. side as often as possible. Even if it's scription for antibiotics is necessary. It may also Whether youÕre wintering, or here for for a short walk, there are a variety of involve a day or two in bed. the summer season, it is important to devel- places to explore nearby. If last yearÕs records and this yearÕs experiences op some strategies for taking good care of 2) Learn something new. YouÕve got a are any indication, Dr. Katz predicts that cases of The yourself while youÕre here. lot of time on your hands to explore Crud will decrease one month after mainbody arrival. Begin with acknowledging the enor- some new ways of expressing your- So if you have yet to feel like the overfilled crank mous transition youÕve just made. Some of self. Find a tutor for music, language, case, you may be one of the lucky who avoided the us live more transient lifestyles than others, art, or science. Attend the science lec- Crud Ðat least this season. ✹ but all of us have dismantled some major tures presented by NSF. pieces of our lives to be here. With that, we 3) Build community. Periodically ask said goodbye to the friends and family back yourself this question: ÒIn what way home that form our individual support sys- can I contribute to the creating of this tems. community?Ó Then imagine that the These relationships keep us feeling experience is over: what would you cared for and belonging to something larger want the people youÕve been here than ourselves.That sense of belonging is with to say about their experience of vital and fundamental to the well being of you? all human beings. 4) Meditate or make time to relax and Most of us are striving for a happy and get quiet each day. Journal these meaningful life, whether here or at home. thoughts, they will help you stay in Balance is needed to achieve and maintain touch with your emotional and spiri- such a life. Balance means that you avoid tual reasons for being here. building a life around one person or one 5) Remind yourself frequently of the thing, no matter how wonderful it may enormity of this experience. It is

photo by Dave Martin seem. human nature to normalize even the Frosty Wooldridge battled the McMurdo crud for five Sigmund Freud considered work, play, most remarkable event. Few people days. ÒItÕs the worst cold IÕve had in 20 years,Ó said and love to be the three major parts of life. will ever know the remarkable beauty Wooldridge. ÒI feel like a used rubber tire.Ó They are the building blocks for creating a of this vast continent. ✹ The Antarctic Sun November 1, 1997 9

Navy News... Provided by Chief Jacqueline Kiel YourTurnÐ Pay Change Takes Effect In February The Navy will switch to the over for an extension or reenlistment. Your questions and comments are welcome here. WeÕll publish Defense Joint Military Pay System Because of the new excess leave responses in each issue. Contact us at [email protected]. (DJMS) beginning January 1998, a policy, military members need to be by Susie Brown move that is expected to improve pay mindful of how much leave they have delivery and reliability. and how much they have used. During the 1997-98 year, McMurdo residents will con- The change, which will begin Personnel currently in an excess sume approximately 6,900 cases of beer Ðsending with the 15 February 1998 payday, leave status will not be affected. Also, 165,600 empty bottles or cans back to the U.S. Would a will standardize all military pay sys- Sailors can reenlist or extend until 10 tems. This will mean better and more January 1998, with excess leave and local microbrewery be more economical? responsive pay support for joint mis- not be affected by the changes. ÒIf it could be done safely and with all regulations fulfilled, we sions in the field. The split pay option will now only could present it to NSFÓ said ASA Resident Manager Stan To enhance pay delivery, pay will be available to forces afloat. This Wisneski. The microbrewery enterprise was researched in the early be computed on a daily basis instead option allows members to have part of 90s, and issues such as location, staffing, sanitary conditions and of the current method of twice a their pay disbursed to a disbursing inspections, materials costs, water supply, and waste were analyzed. month. This will make payments, such office controlled ATM on board ship, From what Wisneski could recollect, the main problem with the pro- as pay to date and advance pay, much thus giving them access to money ject was the amount of work involved Ðit would require a full-time quicker, easier and more accurate to without having to write checks. person just to oversee the bottling or kegging process. calculate. A final change will be in the way In addition, the brine and water residuals from beer production The new system will also change members are notified of their pay. the excess leave policy. would need to be shipped out of Antarctica because they are not part Direct deposit slips will no longer be According to Petty Officer Jim used. Instead, personnel will receive a of its natural environment. These additional food waste containers Foster, a personnelman for Antarctic Leave and Earning Statement (LES) at may exceed fleet capacity, resulting in a much larger shipping Development Squadron 6, any time the beginning of the month, reflecting expense than that incurred in shipping bottles and cans (not to men- excess leave is taken, the money to last monthÕs payments which will tion the loss of a potential aluminum recycling credit of close to cover that day or those days will be include the first of the month payment $5000). Sterilization of glassware would create even more waste deducted from the memberÕs next pay- amount. water, and the sanitation necessary to the brewing itself would cre- check. Finally, donÕt be surprised to ate liabilities should anyone get sick from the beer. Foster pointed out that being Òin receive a net pay advisory (NPA). Finally, funding for the microbrewery project would have to be the holeÓ is different from excess Similar to the LES, the NPA is simply obtained through NSF, just as science projects are presented. leave. So long as the member has the mid-month pay notification. Stan Wisneski, McMurdo Area Manager, ASA enough leave in his or her balance to Further information on DJMS can the end of obligated service, no pay be obtained from NAVADMIN How do I sign up for a boondoggle lottery? will be taken. In addition, a negative 236/97. leave balance will no longer be carried The process for winning a trip off the station is the same as it has been for the last two years. Each work center will provide its employ- ee names to ASA management, including the number of seasons each person has spent on the ice and whether or not he or she has been to the South Pole. Each name is entered into a spreadsheet, weighted by each season completed. A computer then randomly picks approximately 30 ASA names for each South Pole boondoggle as well as 10-20 alter- nates Ðnone of whom have made the same trip before. The number of South Pole trips (there were three last year), as well as any Coast Guard or snowmobile trips, depends on schedules, availability of resources, and weather and ice con- ditions. The trips start in late November. Stan Wisneski McMurdo Area Manager, ASA 10 November 1, 1997 The Antarctic Sun

WEATHER...

More Misguided Storms by George Howard, MAC Weather McMurdo Station, Antarctica

wo weeks ago I described the Tstorm of October 11th, think- ing it would be the worst of the spring and summer. Little did I know we were in for another beating. Between October 21st and 24th, five storms struck McMurdo Station in rapid succession. Steered by unusually oriented upper-level winds, the storms screamed westward across the Ross Ice Shelf at speeds as high photo by Alexander Colhoun photo by as a mile a minute! Snow swirled and danced through McMurdo last week, powered by gusts of wind that maxed out at 78 miles per Taking a bead directly on Ross hour in town and 112 piles per hour at Black Island. ÒIf this happened in the US it would be a national or international Island, the most powerful winds struck story,Ó said Rick Pierce of the storm. ÒBut I think itÕs great!Ó on Thursday the 23rd, reaching 78 McMurdo: South Pole: miles per hour in town and 112 at Black Island! Visibility was less than 100 feet in Average Average Average Average blowing snow, warranted setting Condition One during summer business hours in High Low High Low (deg F) (deg F) (deg F) (deg F) McMurdo for the first time in recent memory. As the last of the storms waned, cooler than normal temperatures rebounded +4 -9 October -54 -64 toward normal. Town residents also enjoyed clearing skies and diminished winds. +20 +9 November -33 -39 Now that the storms have passed, how long do you have to wait for those tanning +30 +21 December -15 -20 rays? Answer: not long. Here's a look ahead at your spring and summer. +31 +22 January -14 -13 +21 +11 February -35 -44

OBITUARY Research Vessel Meredith Frederic ÒPeteÓ Burrill, who in 1943 established the organization that became todayÕs LAURENCE M. Advisory Committee on Antarctic Names, died 5 October at the age of 94. GOULD His leadership in the early development of Antarctic names policies and principles was instru- A new 230-foot ice- mental in establishing international uniformity in the geographic nomenclature of the Antarctic. Mount strengthened research vessel, Burrill in Victoria Land, Antarctica, is named in his chartered by Antarctic Support honor. Associates for the National A world geographer, Dr. Burrill was executive Science Foundation, was dedi- secretary of the Board on Geographic Names, a Federal body that standardizes names for use by th cated October 9 at North the U.S. government and others. He directed a American Shipbuilding Inc. in staff of 175 linguists, geographers, and cartogra- La Rose, Louisiana. After a 22- phers who identified more than 2 million place names. day transit in November from A native of Maine, he was a geography gradu- Louisiana to Punta Arenas, ate of Bates College and received masterÕs and Chile, the ship will support doctoral degrees from Clark University. Over the research and the transport of years he became one of the worldÕs leading authorities in toponymy, the geographic study of passengers and cargo, particular- place names. ly between South America and The 1947 publication Geographical Names of Palmer Station, Antarctica. It Antarctica, which describes 1,400 place names, was his. It showed the way to the 1995 Geographic replaces R/V Polar Duke, which Names of the Antarctic, Second Edition (NSF 95- served from 1984 to 1997. 157) with 12,710 namesÑAntarcticaÕs most com- plete gazetteer. The Antarctic Sun November 1, 1997 11

Updates ...cont. from page 6 gram prior to the 1998-99 season. Approximately 600 mainbody deploy- ments were completed by the end of October. Purchasing for the month saw the highest level for this timeframe since our contract began in 1990. Orders processed during the month totaled 1,034 with a dol- lar value of $8,980,517. The increase was due to annual resupply vessel orders and South Pole projects.

National Science Foundation, Office of Polar Programs by Altie Metcalf An appropriations bill that contains $70-million for rebuilding South Pole Station passed the Senate October 9 after being passed by the house the previous day. The Senate's action cleared Congressional action on the bill, which establishes fiscal- 1998 funding for the National Science photo by Alexander Colhoun photo by Foundation, and the President signed it into A new TERA SCAN satellite weather imagery system was installed in McMurdo last week. ÒItÕll give weather forecasters and law on October 27. The money is over half pilots better weather imagery between here and Lyttelton [New Zealand],Ó said Jim Johnson, assistant data systems manager the $128-million required for the eight-year in McMurdo. project to modernize South Pole facilities. The design of the new station evolved The this past year and now reflects recommen- dations made by the U.S. Antarctic Antarctic Sun Program External Panel chaired by Norman Augustine (former Chairman of Contributions and Ideas are Welcome Email to [email protected] the Board and CEO of Lockheed Martin This paper is available on the In McMurdo, visit our office in Building 155 or dial 2407. Corporation). The 11-person panel visited web at: www.asa.org McMurdo and South Pole last season. ✹ Ðtell your family and friends! After everything is said and done, more is said than done. Ðunknown

have YOU been to Skua Central?

We have lots of perfectly good stuff: bubble wrap ¥ shoes and boots ¥ binders and folders ¥ 4Õx5Õ chalkboard ¥ paper ¥ sweaters and jeans ¥ magazines ¥ filing racks

Reduce ¥ Re-Use ¥ Recycle call 2528 or 2740 with questions Thanks, Your Waste Management Crew 12 November 1, 1997 The Antarctic Sun Observations from the OB Tube by Dave Breitenfeld

Silence. Solitude. Darkness broken only by the light seeping in through the six small win- dows of this cold, damp, tiny chamber, hardly large enough to turn around in. Breath turns to vapor and fogs the thick ice- framed panes of glass that face out into a frigid, alien environment seen in shades of blue as if illuminated by a cobalt sun. Vague non-identifi- able shapes can be seen in the distance, while closer, grotesque creatures unseen on earth float slowly by. Suddenly, a racket reverberates through the steel walls of this inverted tower, and the interior is flooded with light. Overhead a portal opens revealing the silouhette of a hooded figure backlit Alexander Colhoun photo by by a grey sky. A voice echoes from above, ÒHey! Carla Carlson, a Minnesota native, clambers out of the sub-ice observation tube. ÒItÕs pretty cool,Ó said Carlson. ÒitÕs like some kind of winter wonderland down there.Ó You gonna spend all day down there, or what? It's cold out here!Ó fish that came right up to the windows as if pos- The under-ice observation chamber, or ing for underwater tourists. A few obtube vistors ÒobtubeÓ as it is often referred to, was a popular were lucky enough to watch divers as they col- attraction for workers at Mc Murdo Station this lected specimens from the sea floor for research, season. The steady stream of visitors peaked at while others watched seals swim lazily by. nearly seventy in one day. Last week the observation chamber was Built by Alpine Geophysical Associates, Inc., closed to the public to move it six miles west of Aurora Storealis the obtube was first used in the 1963-64 season McMurdo for Weddell seal studies conducted by by Dr. Carlton Ray. Since then the tube has been Dr. Randal Davis. ✹ Hours used to study all aspects of marine life, especially Sunday 11-2 seals. Monday closed One study, conducted in the 1970s by Tuesday 7-8:30 11:30-1 5:30-7:30 Donald Siniff, attempted to correlate the behavior of seals with the sounds they make, in an effort Wednesday 11:30-1 5:30-7:30 to discern whether there is any pattern of vocabu- Thursday 7-8:30 11:30-1 5:30-7:30 lary. This project used the obtube in conjunction with a hydrophone, or underwater microphone, Friday 11:30-1 5:30-7:30 to simultaneously record seals vocalizations Saturday 4:30-8:30 5:30-7:30 while observing their actions. Using the observation tube to assist in scien- tific data gathering has definite advantages. ÒYou can only spend half an hour to forty minutes div- ing, but you can spend hours down in the obtube,Ó explained Rob Robbins, the scientific TV and Radio Line-up diving coordinator at McMurdo. CH 2 American Forces Network, Pacific: sitcoms, soaps, From the chamber one can look up and see brine columns Ðhollow cones of ice formed by drama, game shows and movies super-cooled water, the result of salt being dis- CH 4 Weather with FM93.9 audio

charged from the sea water as it forms into ice May 1965 CH 6 Information Scroll with FM 104.5 audio crystals. CH 7 Transportation Updates with NPR and Sports audio Among the marine life spotted from the CH 9 Movie Channel chamber were large jellyfish of the species desmonema, that have tentacles trailing up to CH 11 News and Sports, CNN, ABC, NBC, CBS twenty feet from their mushroom-shaped bodies. CH 13 The Spectrum Channel, a variety of programs

As these translucent creatures moved The Polar Record, through the water, their bodies, or bells, pulsate, Detailed schedules are available doubling in diameter. Also seen in abundance from outside the TV station in B-155. The OB tube chamber for use under sea ice, manufac- were tiny pteropods that resemble miniscule tured by Alpine Geophysical Associates, Inc., is seen water angels as they paddled about, and small here arriving in McMurdo in 1963. The Antarctic Sun November 1, 1997 13

-- EDITORIALS -- Perspectives Our ÒSick Bay No More" story received several letters of correspon- dence. We donÕt really know what by Susie Brown caused all the racket. Navy and civilian hospitals are different. ThatÕs a fact. But neither one is better than the other. We Coffee House Considered regret that, due to space constraints, we cannot print letters in their entirety. We welcome your thoughts at The Antarctic Sun.

The statement, "One of the biggest changes will be the availability of the doctor who will see any patient that wants his input." implies that our Navy doctors (usually three) either weren't available for the whole community or they were less than receptive. Not true, Sandy. We in McMurdo have had the luxury of some of the very finest Naval physicians available; talented, caring pro- photo by Alexander Colhoun photo by fessionals, who just happened to be trained to operate within the confines of Naval Medical regu- John Harty, left, and Tom Rebold relaxed in the Coffee House last week. ÒThe coffee house is cool,Ó said Rebold. ÒItÕs a lations. They all truly cared hip place to unwind with your dudes.Ó about McMurdo's community and provided care without ith old time sledges and wooden skis hang- strongly about retaining the identity of the Coffee exception... but within the con- Wing on the walls, the McMurdo Coffee House. ÒItÕs beneficial to the physiological health of fines of regulation. House feels more like a Swiss ski lodge than a everyone here to have an alternative gathering place to Jamesway set up on the coast of Antarctica. the typical bar,Ó said Kathy Keys, a second-season Unfortunately, while the Coffee House may have a ASA employee. ÒThe Coffee House provides that with Tom Streeter its quaint, ski-lodge atmosphere. You donÕt want Master At Arms First Class sentimental ambiance, it is also an inefficient relic that is expensive to operate and maintain. crowds.Ó The style of care, rather As a result, like many other buildings in On a recent tour of the Coffee House Al Martin than the quality, has arguably McMurdo, the future of the Coffee House is in limbo. pointed out ripped canvas, insulation sprouting from been the main issue of civilians ÒWe are considering closing any building that is under- the roof and tears in the siding of the Jamesway Ðthe section of the Coffee House that contains the pool and treated at McMurdo Clinic. utilized,Ó said Al Martin, NSF Station Manager. foosball tables. Another option that Martin will recom- Whereas military systems often The Coffee House has two furnaces and a bath- mend to the NSF is simply to remove this section of utilize physician extenders as room to maintain ÐthatÕs not cheap when compared to the Coffee House. primary care providers, the newer, more fuel efficient buildings. The NSF is oblig- In an effort to reduce our footprints on the ice, civilian sector is more familiar ated to manage McMurdo in the most cost effective way possible, and heating an underused building does Martin said several other buildings in McMurdo will with a system that involves not fit the bill. be torn down over the next few years, with hopes of direct physician-patient contact. reusing the buildings in other ways. Currently, Navy and civilian While the concept of a Coffee House is very popu- lar among residents here, the statistics tell another This is nothing new in McMurdo. medical personnel are working story. The Recreation Department has been monitoring together to blend our strengths Reusing buildings has become a trademark of numbers in the bars since last summer, and they esti- to provide an improved medical improved Antarctic efficiency. The Chapel was built mate an average of 5-8 people at the Coffee House on from two old buildings (T5 modules) that were torn service. The result will be a a typical evening. down and reutilized. Parts of Building 87 have already continued vigilance toward In comparison, Southern Exposure, the other non- come down and the plan is to reassemble its infrastruc- Emergency Services, augmented smoking bar at the station, caters to 10-15 people most ture somewhere else in town. by a more relaxed atmosphere nights of the week. Although the two establishments ÒPeople donÕt generally like change, but we have to within McMurdo clinic. have a different atmosphere, one option that will be look at the long-term,Ó said Martin. ÒThere is often an presented to the NSF is to move Coffee House ameni- initial uproar when change occurs, but people eventual- Gerald Katz, M.D. ties to Southern Exposure. ÒThereÕs a certain practicali- ly adjust.Ó For the time being, however, the fate of lattes Physician Advisor, ASA ty involved in combining the two,Ó Al Martin said. and plastic glasses of French wine served at the Coffee At the same time, some McMurdo residents feel House remain unchanged: they will be enjoyed. ✹ 14 November 1, 1997 The Antarctic Sun

But Cashler is far from the radical hippie he could easily have become. Gregarious and quick with a smile, his nature is at once disarming Ðeven the staunchest Profile conservative would appreciate his easy-going manner. As Cashler stopped to recollect wartime experiences his hands moved gently across his forehead with a well-versed, natural rhythm as he wrapped long brown hair back into a pony tail, disclosing a freckle-dappled face that some- how belies his 46 years. A closer look revealed strands of gray running through the thicket of a mustache pouring over his chin. A wiry face, a sharp nose and black dancing pupils all lend to the aura of a man who has chosen to defy age with a youthful lifestyle. Not that he hasnÕt packed experience into those years. ÒIÕve never married but IÕve been twice divorced,Ó said Cashler, also the father of an adopted Guatemalan daughter, Micol. Now 21, Micol lives just down the road from her father in Buena Vista, Colorado. ÒAll streams of love follow the same trail,Ó said Cashler of his experience as a father. ÒI help Micol sort out her life and she helps me sort out mine.Ó A lifetime spent as a painter may have some- thing to do with CashlerÕs thoughtful nature. Working four to six months a year painting the exteriors of condominiums in Breckenridge, Copper and Vail, Colorado, Cashler spends the A handlebar moustache seldom gets in the way of RubenÕs painting work, but youÕll never see him drinking beer from a can. ÒI usually only drink beer from a bottle,Ó says Cashler. ÒItÕs just easier with this beard.Ó rest of his time on the road. Proud of the fact he was breaking trails in Guatemala long before the advent of Lonely Planet guidebooks and backpackerÕs guesthous- Beyond Wanderlust: es, Cashler recalls the good old days. ÒBack then everything was word of mouth. You could camp in the jungles and in the Mayan ruins.Ó Ruben Cashler story and photos by Alexander Colhoun CashlerÕs been traveling so long, he seems to have moved beyond wanderlust to a nether- eep in the heart of the Rockies, just village of Darra, 100 miles realm of travel living. His Dbelow Mount Yale, along the banks of outside Kabul, Pakistan, just curiosity pulled him all the way the Middle Cottonwood River lies a small months before the to Antarctica to work as a kerosene lit wood cabin. On summer nights Mujahudeen offensive. painting foreman in McMurdo. when the full moon shines through the Aspen ÒWe got through the Here, Cashler revels in the trees youÕre likely to find Ruben Cashler resting check points in vans, covered frontier atmosphere and the silently on the front porch, watching the evening by some of the locals who challenges of living in a tightly pass by. pretended like they were knit community. ÒEveryone Cashler has plenty to ponder. ÒIÕve basically sleeping on top of us,Ó said here has to be a team player,Ó worked and traveled like a gypsy family,Ó Cashler. Later, for a mere said Cashler. ÒWeÕre all moti- explained Cashler. ÒIÕm pretty much committed fifty bucks, Cashler and his vated to do our best and have a to travel, thatÕs what I do.Ó friend were offered a chance good attitude. I like that.Ó For six months each year Cashler hits the to fire AK-47s and RPGs Cashler also likes looking road. Since the 1970s his travels have taken him Ðrocket grenades. ÒWe just out on the Antarctic landscape, from Mozambique to Mongolia, from refugee werenÕt into that,Ó said and when he does, he sees camps in Pakistan to Aztec ruins in Mexico and Cashler. more than sea ice. He sees a Honduras. ÒIÕm addicted to the newness and Which isnÕt a surprise. world waiting to be explored. freshness of travel. Each time I get off the plane Cashler was a Vietnam war Even so, you can be certain the encounter is fresh, like coming to protester. ÒWe united people Cashler will retreat soon Antarctica.Ó In fact, landing on Antarctic sea ice behind a common cause,Ò enough to an even quieter three weeks ago in a C-141 Airforce plane was Cashler explained. ÒWe had locale Ðhis cabin in the woods. small change on CashlerÕs travel list. a fulcrum, a wedge of power ÒItÕs challenging living here,Ó said Cashler It is a way of life, and by the while relaxing in the paint shop. ÒItÕs Covered from head to foot in a shawl and and we closed the campus. It looks on CashlerÕs face, itÕs just a dot on a hillside in the middle of serving him well. ✹ Afghan sandals, Cashler recalls sneaking into the was a colorful period.Ó a massive landscape... but I love it.Ó