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Israel: a Personal Travel Guide ISRAEL A PERSONAL TRAVEL GUIDE By Douglas E. Duckett Cincinnati, Ohio, USA [email protected] ©2004-2020 Douglas E. Duckett All rights reserved TABLE OF CONTENTS Page Introduction .................................................................................................................................. 1-3 Other Guidebooks ..................................................................................................................2 Getting There ............................................................................................................................... 3-4 Getting Around ............................................................................................................................ 4-8 Car Rentals ......................................................................................................................... 4-6 Insurance and CDW Coverage for Rental Cars ................................................................. 4-5 Maps, “No-Go” Areas, and Using a GPS .......................................................................... 5-7 Hiring Tour Guides ................................................................................................................7 Taxis, Buses, and Trains .................................................................................................... 7-8 When To Go................................................................................................................................ 9-10 Booking Hotels ...............................................................................................................................10 Israel On A Budget .................................................................................................................. 10-11 Security Issues .......................................................................................................................... 11-12 Changing Money ............................................................................................................................13 Tipping ...................................................................................................................................... 13-14 Packing ...................................................................................................................................... 14-15 Cultural Tips ............................................................................................................................ 15-22 The Jewish Population ................................................................................................... 15-19 The Arab Population ...................................................................................................... 20-21 Other Groups in Israel ..........................................................................................................22 Miscellaneous (Including Phones, Electric Current, News Sources, and Sun Protection) ....... 22-23 i Suggested Itineraries: Tel Aviv ............................................................................................... 23-30 Tel Aviv Hotels .............................................................................................................. 24-25 Things to Do in Tel Aviv ............................................................................................... 25-28 Tel Aviv Restaurant Recommendations ........................................................................ 28-30 Suggested Itineraries: Haifa .................................................................................................... 30-36 Haifa Hotels (and a Wine Shop) .................................................................................... 30-31 Things to Do in Haifa, Akko, and Area ......................................................................... 31-34 Haifa Restaurant Recommendations .............................................................................. 34-35 Things to Do/See on the Way from Haifa to Eastern Galilee ........................................ 35-38 Suggested Itineraries: Tsfat (Safed) ....................................................................................... 38-39 Suggested Itineraries: The Kinneret and Eastern Galilee Region ....................................... 39-47 Things to Do Around Lake Kinneret (Sea of Galilee) ................................................... 39-40 Hotels in Tiberias, Rosh Pina, and the Kinneret Region................................................ 40-41 Restaurant Recommendations in Eastern Galilee ................................................................42 Things to Do in Kinneret Region, Eastern and Upper Galilee, and Golan .................... 42-47 Suggested Itineraries: The Negev, Israel’s Desert South ..................................................... 47-55 Northern Negev, Mitzpe Ramon, and the Makhtesh Ramon ......................................... 47-49 Mitzpe Ramon and Area Hotels and Lodging ............................................................... 49-50 Eilat and Petra/Wadi Rum in Jordan .............................................................................. 50-55 Things to Do in Eilat .......................................................................................... 51-52 Visiting Petra and Wadi Rum in Jordan............................................................. 52-54 Eilat Hotels ......................................................................................................... 54-55 Eilat Restaurant Recommendations .........................................................................55 ii Suggested Itineraries: Jerusalem .......................................................................................... 55-77 Introduction to Jerusalem ............................................................................................. 55-56 Hotels and Guesthouses in Jerusalem .......................................................................... 56-58 Getting Around in Jerusalem .............................................................................................58 Day-by-Day Itineraries in Jerusalem and Recommended Tour Guides ...................... 59-65 Visiting the Western Wall ..................................................................................................65 Shopping in Jerusalem ................................................................................................. 66-67 Other Places to See in Jerusalem, Bethlehem, and Hebron ......................................... 67-74 Jerusalem Restaurant Recommendations ..................................................................... 74-77 iii ISRAEL: A PERSONAL TRAVEL GUIDE By Douglas E. Duckett Cincinnati, Ohio, USA [email protected] ©2004-2020 Douglas E. Duckett All rights reserved. INTRODUCTION. The Israel travel guide you are reading is a greatly expanded version of one I first prepared for an American friend some two decades ago. In it, I have tried to share my experiences and knowledge of Israel based on a lifetime of study and eighteen visits to the country, most recently in November 2019. I enjoy independent travel, and this guide was written primarily with such travelers in mind, though the information should be helpful to those on group tours as well. As an American, I have produced a guide that, no doubt, reflects that identity and experience. I hope my readers from other countries will forgive that and will still find useful information to help plan their trips. I am not in the travel industry. Rather, I am a labor lawyer who loves Israel passionately and wants to encourage others to travel there and experience this wonderful land. My first visit was in November 1988, and I caught the bug; thus, I started visiting every other year or so thereafter, except for 2000-2004, the truly terrible years of the second Palestinian uprising and the terror bombings in Israel cities. Now, with partial retirement, I can go every year. Even with the mostly peaceful conditions prevailing since then, some friends still asked, “are you sure you want to go back to Israel?” Flare-ups with Gaza or Hizbullah from time to time exacerbate those concerns. So, how do I answer that? Each trip has been a dream, and travel to Israel is one of the great joys of my life. The security situation is nothing like you imagine or fear. My trips have all been calm and peaceful, and while there is more security than you may be used to in North America or parts of Europe, I have never been afraid, and Israelis are not either. Tourism has been booming—at least until the novel coronavirus (COVID-19) pandemic, which has hugely affected Israel as it has the whole world. I had to cancel my planned May 2020 trip, and it is possible that places listed in this guide will have closed by the time of your trip—check to be sure. I hope to return in November 2020, conditions permitting, but as with everywhere, we will simply have to see. But violence, which almost never involved tourists in any event, is not an issue for you to be concerned about. Even in tenser times, Israeli cities are safer than the street crime one would risk in any major American city—before we get to the gun violence and mass shootings now routinely plaguing the US. So, I encourage you not to give in to irrational and uninformed fears, and don’t pay much attention to friends who have never been there who say, “I can’t believe you’re going to Israel!!” Terror can happen anywhere, and does—New York,
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