POISON or PANACEA? The first half of 2002 was a torrid time for . Political violence Ecotourism in Madagascar wreaked havoc with the country’s security and economy, and completely Photographs by Nick Garbutt derailed its fast-growing tourism industry. Once the all clear sounded, however, an apprehensive Nick Garbutt headed back to his favourite island – and what he found there prompted a long, hard look at what had  been billed as Madagascar’s lifeline: ecotourism. n November 2002 I returned to swirled and periodically enveloped the Madagascar for the 12th consecu­ canopy, and the constant percussion of tive year. Prior to departure in pre­ water dripping on leaves accompanied vious years, excitement and an occasional bout of bird song. While enthusiasm had always been my Fidi and I looked and listened for signs overridingI emotions, but this time these of activity, his brother Jean-Cry were tempered by worry and uncer­ (also an excellent guide) disappeared to tainty. During the first half of 2002, the search further afield. An hour later we country suffered one of the most serious still had not found any – bouts of political unrest in its history Madagascar’s flagship animals and what (see page 21 of the August 2002 issue of the group most hoped to see. This was Africa Geographic) and although things not the Ranomafana I remembered, the had returned to something like normal one normally alive with troops of by the time of my trip, there was no bright-eyed lemurs and other wildlife. way of knowing what lasting damage Where was it all? With growing unease, had been done to its priceless national I recalled the unnerving reports I’d read parks and reserves. of parks being illegally exploited during I was leading a group from the UK and the breakdown of government. our first port of call was Ranomafana Concerned that the group might be National Park, towards the south-east of getting restless, I asked Fidi if there were the island. Coincidentally, this had also any other things he could show us. been the first park I visited during my Normally he had numerous ‘gems up first Madagascar adventure in 1991 and his sleeve’ – nocturnal lemur sleep sites, in the intervening years I had returned birds’ nests, resting leaf-tailed geckos or hiding chameleons – but this time he This was not the Ranomafana I remembered, the had nothing to offer. ‘Sorry, Nick. This is only the second time I’ve been in the one normally alive with troops of bright-eyed lemurs forest this year. I don’t know where things are now.’ and other wildlife. Where was it all? Just as embarrassed frustration was turning to distinct nervousness, Jean- numerous times. After a long, dusty and Cry called out from the ridge and we all limb-numbing journey over a hopeless­ clambered up the slippery trail, trying ly potholed road (still no better than in our best to keep pace with Fidi. A little 1991) we arrived in the village of out of breath, hot and sweaty, we even­ Ranomafana which nestles at the foot of tually found Jean-Cry standing close to the island’s eastern escarpment and is some giant bamboo, grinning broadly. a stone’s throw from the eponymous He pointed to the branches 10 metres national park. away – there were two greater bamboo I immediately sought out top local lemurs, one of the most en­dangered guide and old friend, Jean Emilien species, ripping at the tough outer pith Rafidison and found him in his house of a bamboo stalk. For 30 magical sifting through a basket of rice as he minutes we crouched on the sodden prepared the evening meal. ‘Ah Nick!’ leaf-litter, close enough to hear the crack exclaimed ‘Fidi’ (as he is less formally and tear of splintering bamboo as the known). ‘You’ve come back again.’ His lemurs’ sharp teeth and powerful jaws characteristic enthusiasm was undimi­ went to work. nished, but another emotion was clear – As we continued our search along the sheer relief. The reason soon became trail, it crossed my mind again how apparent – he’d had no work as a guide eerily peaceful the forest seemed – there all year. The political unrest had caused were few noises and little movement of all tourists to cancel their trips and he any kind. Then the obvious occurred to PREVIOUS SPREAD A juvenile Madagascar had been forced to fall back on farming me; there were no other tourist groups tree boa rests on a tree fern. As it and other precarious ways of making looking for lemurs and no other guides matures, its fiery red coloration will turn ends meet. We sat and chatted, catching scouring the forest. This explained why to olive green. up on news and lamenting the pickle we’d had such difficulty finding the RIGHT Of the three subspecies of grey the nation’s politicians had caused, then animals – the normal network of guides bamboo lemur, the eastern bamboo set about planning the next three days. passing information and leading us from lemur is the most common. Ranomafana The following morning we descend­- one hotspot to another was not there. National Park is the only place where all ed into the rocky gorge by the park The bush telegraph had been silenced. three subspecies are found and, with hard entrance, crossed the footbridge over Over the next three days we wandered work and luck, visitors stand a chance of the Namorona River and entered the Ranomafana’s many trails and hardly hitting the ‘bamboo lemur jackpot’. rainforest. Early morning mist still saw another soul. There were long 

28 madagascar AFRICA GEOGRAPHIC martin harvey periods when lemurs and other wildlife proved difficult to find, but by the end of our stay we had managed to see no fewer than nine of the park’s 12 resident lemur species, including the golden bamboo lemur, grey bamboo lemur, red- bellied lemur, greater dwarf lemur and the stunningly beautiful Milne-Edward’s sifaka. We had also been treated to an excellent array of birds, such as the pitta-like ground-roller and Pollen’s vanga, plus lots of reptiles and frogs. Far more importantly, we had seen these species by happening across them or by following the signs and finding them ourselves. They had not been found in advance and then served up on a plate, one after another, to satiate an unquench­ ­able appetite. Yes, we had to work much harder, immerse ourselves in the forest and cover more ground, but in the end our experience was infinitely more rewarding and memorable. It reminded me of how Ranomafana used to be (in 1991 I had camped in the forest for five days and come across two other people) and underlined how much the village and the park had changed in the past decade. But was this change for the better?

adagascar has become synonymous with, and a byword for, environmen­ tal destruction and degra­ dation – the felling of Mforests, inefficient land use and un­check­ed population growth. Across the island, vast tracts of land have been ravaged and perhaps 85 per cent of its forest cleared and burned. Bare soil bakes to a barren red crust and erodes hotels and lodges require staff, campsites with the annual onset of rains, staining require maintenance and all visitors the country’s rivers like blood. It is the require guides. Tourists would also buy environmental equivalent of Ground food and crafts, further bolstering the Zero. But for those of us in the affluent local economy. Residents around the OPPOSITE An ecotourist lodge in Rano­ West, it is rather too easy to forget that park would thus be ‘compensated’ for mafana.­ Tourism benefits those who this is largely the result of people doing losing access to traditional forest work at lodges like this and are involved what they’ve done for centuries – re­sources. Ranomafana was intended as directly in tourism in various other ways, putting a roof over their heads and food a model for such integrated conservation but how much money filters down to on their plates. Nothing more than and development, ultimately benefiting and benefits the broader community? basic survival. both wildlife and people. above top Tourists crossing the old With the establishment of national So has it worked? At one level the bridge over the Namorona River in parks like Ranomafana, it was hoped answer is yes – the profile of lemurs and Ranomafana. This was later washed that destructive traditional practices other wildlife has been raised and the away by a cyclone and has been replaced would be replaced with alternatives park is now firmly established on the by a far more substantial structure – more in harmony with the environ­ tourist map, resulting in better protec­ partiallly funded by tourist money. ment. The theory was simple: 50 per tion for 44 000 hectares of forest. At cent of the entrance fees were earmarked another level the answer is no, because above Many rural villages like this one for development in communities around the pay-offs have failed to live up to the border national parks. If proper­ly the park; and the park would provide expecta­tions created in many communi­ channelled, money derived from tourism­ many employment opportunities – ties.  should benefit their development.

july 2003 madagascar 31 Ranomafana itself used to be a very 900-million FMG or around US$150 000, poor, but charming little town. Today it half of which should be going to local is still poor, but much of the charm has communities. In a country as poor as been lost. It is evident that a few guides, Madagascar, US$75 000 goes a very long hotel owners and hotel staff make way and yet community development money from tourists, but potential eco­ remains stagnant while ANGAP builds nomic benefits appear to pass everyone plush new offices in the capital Antana­ else by. It has created a social fabric of narivo and its senior staff drive around ‘haves’ and ‘have nots’, resulting in in Land Cruisers. begging amongst some children and Problems have also developed within tourist-fleecing by a number of adults. the forest. At Place Nocturne there is a This has been exacerbated by the feeding area where bait – banana infiltration of ‘Westernism’, particularly smeared on branches and morsels of Americana. Much of the initial expertise meat scattered on the floor – is put out and funding that created the park came to attract nocturnal lemurs and small from the United States and other foreign carnivores. During my early visits to sources. Since then there has been a Ranomafana I took full advantage. It constant stream of scientists and was marvellous to see and photograph students from international institutions. tiny brown mouse lemurs and the nor­ While the benefits to local and national mally extremely shy Malagasy striped education are immeasurable (there is civet, or fanaloka, at such close quarters. also a constant stream of Malagasy scien­ But today tourist numbers have swelled, tists and students working together with their foreign counterparts) and the resulting advancement of knowledge is The fanaloka’s appearance was accompanied by an invaluable, the side effects are much less palatable. Research guides, for instance, eruption of ‘ohs’, ‘ahs’ and shrieks, and a barrage often inherit departing students’ belong­ ings – tape recorders, Nike trainers, etc. of flashguns reminiscent of a bank of paparazzi at – trappings of Western culture that broaden the divide between the ‘haves’ a film premiere and ‘have nots’ to a chasm. Add to this their accidental acquisition of foreign accents, and the cultural iden­tity of there are no controls and the event has Ranomafana is further eroded. deteriorated into a circus. On one occasion I remember, I witnessed a gathering of over 50 tourists jostling for hen I tentatively broach­ position like a football crowd. The ed the subject with Fidi fanaloka’s appear­ance was accompanied it uncorked a wave of by an eruption of inappropriate ‘ohs’, vehe­ment rhetoric. ‘The ‘ahs’ and shrieks, and a barrage of park hasn’t benefited the flashguns reminiscent of a bank of communityW at all,’ he began. ‘Where paparazzi at a film premiere. does all the money go? We don’t see I usually have no objection to such any of it; it’s obvious there is so much feeding sites – they are nothing more corruption.’ He cited the example of a than glorified ‘bird tables’ for the recent park director who, prior to creatures of the night and are a great leaving his job, arranged for one of the idea, provided that they are regulated largest, oldest trees in the forest to be and that, crucially, the human/animal felled to make furniture for his new interface is not breached. Sadly, at Rano­ house. Fidi continued, ‘When people in mafana this is not the case. the community hear of such things it The wagging finger isn’t just reserved makes them angry and they think, why for tourists – scientists are also far from should we protect the park?’ blameless. Lemurs in study groups are The raw figures appear to add weight fitted with unsightly identification to Fidi’s arguments. In an average year, collars and these are not always removed Ranomafana gets around 18 000 visit­ when the study concludes. There should ors, each paying 50 000 Malagasy Francs be a code dictating that (as much as Red-bellied lemurs are readily seen at (FMG) for a park permit issued by the possible) subjects and their environment Ranomafana. Some individuals have Association Nationale pour la Gestion are left as they were found. Recently a become reliant on banana hand-outs des Aires Protégées (ANGAP), the agency Ranomafana guide told me that the nest at feeding sites where, unfortunately, that oversees the parks and protected of a rare raptor was deserted by the the human/animal interface is too areas. That is an annual income of parent birds after researchers had  easily breached.

gerald cubitt july 2003 madagascar 33 continually encroached beyond an acceptable distance in their quest for data. In such cases lessons need to be learned to guard against making similar mistakes in future. I am also well aware that I have contributed to the problem. Each year I lead several tour groups to Madagascar and when I’m not doing that, I write features for magazines encouraging people to go there. In my own small way, I am partly responsible for the increased pressure tourists have caused. But just because I’m pro-tourism does not mean I agree with and condone all that takes place. So can ecotourism ultimately save Madagascar? The answers I come up with are something of a fudge: ‘It can be positive, but…’ or ‘The potential is there, but…’ and ultimately, ‘Yes, but not in isolation’. There is always a ‘but’. Field conservationists – people who deal with the reality of saving dwindling habitats and simultaneously engender­ ing local trust and support – reckon it will take many years for ecotourism projects to bear fruit. The key, in fact, is to go slowly, adopting a ‘hand in glove’ approach so that inevitable cultural change is not out of kilter with intended development. Communities should enjoy benefits from visitors without unevenly distributed tourist income destabilising local economies and breed­ ing resentment. Madagascar’s wildlife treasures should be championed and protected from rampant overuse, which has an adverse impact in more popular areas. And the spending of the millions of foreign-aid dollars that are ploughed into the system annually should be planned adequately to avoid waste and overall benefits that tourism can offer. corruption. It is a process that inescap­ Further encouragement comes from ab­ly requires time – a commodity that the highest level. Madagascar’s new and Madagascar has little of. forward-looking president, Marc Since Ranomafana opened in 1991, Ravelomanana, has made it known that numerous other areas of outstanding tourism is at the forefront of his agenda biodiversity in Madagascar have been to get the country back on its economic protected. The country now boasts no feet. Now that normality has returned, OPPOSITE A leaf-tailed gecko lies fewer than 15 national parks – Andasibe- there has perhaps never been a better camouflaged on a tree trunk. Without Mantadia, Masoala, Marojejy, Andoha­ time to visit Madagascar – tourist the help of expert local guides, tourists hela and Zombitse are amongst the most numbers in 2003 will still be down on would have little chance of finding such exciting – all of which incorporate previous years and parks and reserves cryptic treasures. ecotourism as a major part of their will be relatively quiet. And while I am above top Madagascar is a Mecca for overall conservation and development not naïve enough to think ecotourism is birdwatchers, with no fewer than 36 strategy. And while other projects have a cure for all Madagascar’s environ­ endemic genera. The pitta-like ground not copied the template laid down by mental ills, I firmly believe it has a vital roller is one of the jewels of the island’s Ranomafana, they have noted its many role to play. That coupled with the rainforests. successes and looked at alternatives to incredible biodiversity and welcoming the failures. It is clear the decision- people will continue to draw me – and, above Bait and feeding sites are the makers in the conservation community I hope, the tourists I encourage – back only way most visitors will have a chance are still pinning their hopes on the year after year.  to see shy animals such as the fanaloka.

july 2003 madagascar 35 Ankarana Further Reading Reserve Madagascar Wildlife – A Visitor’s el n Marojejy NP Guide by Hilary Bradt, Derek an h ➥ C Schuurman­ and Nick Garbutt. e u Masoala NP iq b Mammals of Madagascar by m a Nosy z Nick Garbutt. o Ampijoroa Mangabe M Forest Madagascar: the Bradt Travel Guide by Hilary Bradt. Andasibe- Mantadia NP The Birds of Madagascar: A Antananarivo Photographic Guide by Pete Morris and Frank Hawkins. Indian Birds of the Indian Ocean Islands: Satanic leaf-tailed gecko Ocean Ranamofana NP Madagascar, Mauritius, Réunion, Rodrigues, Seychelles and the Madagascar’s Hotspots Comoros by Ian Sinclair and Zombitse NP Olivier Langrand. These are the parks and reserves I believe to be Madagascar’s Ifaty Forest Andohahela A Field Guide to the Amphibians very best, not only for their wildlife-watching opportunities, NP Berenty and Reptiles of Madagascar by but for the overall experience they offer. Reserve Frank Glaw and Miguel Vences.

Nick Garbutt is a wildlife Eastern Rainforests rugged area offers trekking in and incredible rocky scenery. author, photographer, artist pristine forest with stunning views. Camping is the only option, and it and lecturer, and a tour leader Andasibe-Mantadia It is the best place to see silky sifaka does get very hot. with consider­able experience National Park and, if you can put in the time and in Madagascar and southern This is Madagascar’s most access­ effort to find them, there is a dizzy­ Southern Region and East Africa, as well as ible – and now arguably its best – ing abundance of birds (including Zombitse National Park Borneo, India and Nepal. rainforest reserve. There is good helmet vangas), reptiles and frogs. This unique and isolated patch of Garbutt says of Madagas­ accommodation on its doorstep transition forest straddles a main car, ‘My first visit was over a and indris – and, increasingly, road and is home to the shy ring- decade ago and I was instantly diademed sifakas – are easily seen. The largest remaining expanse of tailed lemurs, red-fronted brown captivated, firstly by its It is a top-notch place for bird­ lowland rainforest on the island is lemurs and Verreaux’s sifakas, plus un­usual wildlife, secondly by watching, especially for rainforest fabulous for red ruffed lemurs and an excellent selection of birds that the charming people and specials like ground-rollers. Snakes, offers good birding, including a includes the local endemic, thirdly by the extreme fragility chameleons and frogs are also number of the rare endemics such Appert’s greenbul. of the relationship between much in evidence. as helmet and Bernier’s vangas and the two.’ While he believes Madagascar serpent eagle. Reptiles Ifaty Forest that the increase in tourism and frogs are also plentiful. The This spiny forest offers good and its associa­ted Ranomafana may have its prob­ walking can be tough and it is birding for regional endemics such development have brought lems, but many of these are being often very wet. There is good as long-tailed ground-roller and many benefits, he cautions addressed. It is still a very rewarding­ snorkelling off the beach. sub-desert mesite. The snorkelling that ‘Madagascar, as it begins place to visit: there are good is good and the beach a new chapter with a new guides, well laid-out forest trails, an Western Dry Forests accommodation is top-notch. president, faces ever- unmatched array of lemurs (12 increasing environmental species in all), diverse birdlife which Ampijoroa Forest challenges. To meet these includes many endemics (vangas, This is the best piece of accessible A park divided into three distinct success­fully and to harness the ground-rollers, mesites, asities), and western forest left. Beautiful parcels – rainforest, spiny forest potential benefits from varied and abundant reptile and Coquerel’s sifakas are easily seen and transitional forest. The last tourism, the lessons from the frog populations. and the birding is first rate – the two are particularly interesting as park protects white-breasted they encompass fascinating mesite, Schlegel’s asity and vegetation and numerous birds This island off the north-east coast Madagascar fish eagle. Reptiles are and reptiles. offers the best chance of glimpsing abundant, especially after rain. The Africa Geographic Online a wild aye-aye and great walking trails are flat and the Read more about Madagascar opportunities for seeing leaf-tailed campsite is reasonable, but it can Madagascar’s best-known reserve in Africa – Environment & geckos (by day and night) and get hot here. is rather artificial, but still excellent Wildlife Vol.4 No.6, Vol.6 No.2, green-backed mantella frogs. for ring-tailed lemurs and Vol.7 No.1, Vol.7 No.6, Vol.8 Verreaux’s sifakas, chameleons and No.4 and Vol.9 No.5; and in A wide variety of lemurs, birds and birds. The park offers great photo Africa Geographic Vol.10 No.11 Recently created and not for the reptiles are easily seen in this opportunities in a pleasant, easy- (December 2002) faint-hearted, this fantastically wonderful combination of forest going environment.  Visit www.africa-geographic.com

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