Introduction

There are lots of reasons for wanting a . You may have just lost a dog that you considered your best friend and feel frantic to get another dog. Your friend may have gotten a dog. A family member may be lobbying for a dog. You may have seen a dog you thought was cute. Or you may fondly remember a dog you had in earlier years and think that is what you need or what your children need.

Whatever your reasons for wanting a dog, you need to evaluate carefully whether you are prepared to raise a dog and what type of dog fits your current lifestyle or family.

Dog ownership lasts for the whole life of the dog – for many that is 12 to 15 years.

Getting a dog is a lot like having a baby – there is much to do to prepare, there is a baby stage which is very labor-intensive on your part, there is a toddler stage and an adolescent stage which can both be a bit trying on your patience, then there is a long and happy relationship (if you got through the earlier stages successfully), and then there is a “senior” stage during which your dog may be on medications and may need your help.

The commitment is long but should be rewarding. There is nothing like the devotion of a great dog. Be sure you deserve that devotion and unconditional love by taking good care of your dog, setting boundaries, administering proper discipline as necessary, and training your dog to understand what you expect.

Before you decide on a dog, do some visiting. Visit friends who have dogs and ask lots of questions. Visit breeders of various dogs and ask lots of questions. Visit a and watch the dogs carefully as they interact with various people. And ask questions.

There are lots of dogs from which to choose – over 200 breeds plus many mixed and designer dogs - , adult dogs, dogs to save, dogs to foster, etc. You need to take your time to get the right dog at the right time for you.

You are on a journey to choose, adopt, and bring a new friend into your life. Prepare carefully. Do your homework to learn all you can about various breeds, the costs involved, the demands, etc. Meet as many dogs and dog owners as you can. Read this book to get some background and to find some resources to help you on your journey to successful dog ownership.

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Table of Contents

CHAPTER 1 – ARE YOU READY FOR A DOG? ______6 Should You Get A Dog?______6 Questions You Need To Answer Before Deciding On A Dog______8 What Is Your Family Type? ______8 What Is Your Attitude? ______10 Consider The Costs Of Dog Ownership______10 CHAPTER 2 – DECIDING ON THE RIGHT DOG ______13 Size ______13 Age ______13 Puppies ______13 Adult Dogs ______14 Adolescent Dogs ______14 Senior Dogs ______14 Gender: Male or Female ______15 Neuter / Spay Or Not ______16 Neutered Male Dogs ______16 Spayed (Neutered) Females ______17 Myths On Dog Neuter & Spay ______17 What To Expect ______18 CHAPTER 3 – WHAT KIND OF DOG IS BEST FOR YOU? ______21 What Do I Need To Understand About Dogs? ______21 Herding Dogs ______22 Sporting Dogs ______23 Working Dogs______23 Dogs ______24 ______25 Non-Sporting Dogs ______26 Toy Dogs______27 Mixed Breed Dogs ______27 Designer Or Hybrid Dogs ______28 CHAPTER 4 – WHERE SHOULD YOU GET A DOG? ______30 Where To Get Your ? ______32 Store ______32 Newspaper Ad ______33 Internet Services ______33 Breeder ______34 Shelters & Breed Rescue Organizations ______36 Typical Adoption Process At A Humane Society Or Shelter ______37 CHAPTER 5 – CHOOSING YOUR PERFECT PUPPY______40 Select Only A Healthy Puppy ______40

3 Expect Questions ______42 “Test” Your Possible Puppy ______42 Ask Questions ______44 Meet The Parents Of The Puppy ______45 CHAPTER 6 – CHOOSING THE BEST ADULT DOG ______46 Consider Only A Healthy Choice ______46 Expect Questions ______48 Ask Questions ______48 “Test” Your Prospective Dog ______48 CHAPTER 7 – BEFORE YOU TAKE YOUR DOG HOME ______53 Make Your Home Environment Dog-Safe ______53 Limit Your Dog’s Access ______54 What You Will Need To Purchase For Your Dog______55 Choosing A Crate______56 What Kind Of Brush Or Comb Will You Need? ______57 Preparing Your Family For Your Dog Or Puppy ______59 How To Be Your Dog’s Pack Leader (Alpha)______60 CHAPTER 8 – BRINGING YOUR DOG HOME ______63 Preparing To Bring Your Dog Home ______63 Coming Home ______63 Naming Your Dog______65 Introducing Your Dog To The Family ______66 Introducing Your Dog To Other Dogs In The Family ______66 Introducing Your New Dog To Other In The Family______67 Feeding Your Dog ______68 CHAPTER 9 – THE FIRST EIGHT WEEKS ______71 Housetraining Your Newly Adopted Dog ______71 Seven Steps to Successful Housetraining ______71 Crate Training______72 Introducing Your Dog To The Crate ______73 Tips for ______74 Finding A Veterinarian & A Groomer ______75 What Vaccines Will Your Dog Need?______76 Should You Tag / Microchip Your Dog?______77 CHAPTER 10 - MAKING DOGGY A FAMILY MEMBER ______79 Socialization Activities ______79 General Information About Training ______80 Putting On The Training Collar______81 Basic Commands For Good Manners ______83 No______83 Potty ______83 Drop It / Give ______84 Floor Or No Jump______84 Leave It ______85 Off ______85 Boundary ______85

4 Basic Commands For Obedience______86 Work Time ______86 The Release Word (Free, All Done, Okay)______86 Heel & Sit ______86 Sit-Stay______87 Come & By Heel______87 Down ______88 CHAPTER 11 – FROM EIGHT WEEKS TO . . . ______89 Expanding Your Dog’s Socialization ______89 Activities To Do With Your Dog ______90 Boomerang Recall ______90 See Me______90 Fetch ______90 Maze and Obstacle Course ______90 Follow the Leader______91 Caring For Your Dog ______91 Bathing ______91 Grooming ______92 Feeding ______92 Cutting Nails______92 Cleaning Ears______93 Cleaning Eyes ______93 Cleaning Pads ______93 First-Aid For Your Dog ______94 First Aid Kit Checklist ______94

Appendix ______97 Various Helpful Pet Web Sites ______97 Glossary ______98

5 CHAPTER 1 – ARE YOU READY FOR A DOG?

Should You Get A Dog?

Here is a quick quiz to assess you, your family, and your lifestyle to help you understand your suitability to being a dog owner at this time. (The word “family” refers to a family of one as much as a family of four or six.)

Answer the questions honestly and keep track of the point values of your answers. Then, at the end, you will get some information on the best pet for your lifestyle.

It does not mean you cannot get a more active dog or a puppy instead of a more docile rescued dog, but it does help you understand what the demands on you will be.

How would you describe your family? • Clean freaks …(1 pt) • Moderately clean …(3 pts) • A little disorganized, but we pick up when people come in …(6 pts) • Chaos is our middle name – and we’re not ashamed of it …(7 pts)

How tolerant are you? • We’re the first to complain about noisy neighbors or trash …(0 pts) • We’re aren’t particularly tolerant, but we get used to change …(3 pts) • We’re flexible and tolerant, able to go with the flow …(6 pts) • We can put up with pretty much anything …(8 pts)

How does your family dress? • We’re so conservative we wear shoes to bed …(0 pts) • We rarely wear ratty clothes, even at home …(1 pt) • We’re into the latest fashions – if it is chic, we have it …(6 pts) • We wear jeans and dress down whenever possible …(7 pts)

Which matches your family’s schedule? • We’re constantly traveling – the neighbors don’t believe anyone lives here …(0 pts) • We’re home only in the evening, and even then we’re in and out …(3 pts) • We’re busy, but relish the time we spend at home …(4 pts) • We’re homebodies (6 pts)

What is your family’s lifestyle? • We’re retired and unable to do a lot at this time in our lives … (1 pt) • We’re lazy – reaching for the remote is our exercise … (2 pts) • We’re active and like to be outside … (6 pts) • We like to keep busy, but we’re also homebodies … (7 pts)

Describe the personalities of your household in general – include all members. • We are reclusive … (0 pts)

6 • We’re quiet and keep to ourselves, although friends and family members visit … (2 pts) • We like to get out and make new friends on the street, in the grocery, wherever we are … (6 pts) • We like to show off what we have – we were the first on our block to get an Xbox 360 … (8 pts)

What is your pet-owning history? • This will be our first pet … (0 pts) • One of us had a pet as a child, but that’s it … (3 pts) • We’re experienced pet owners, but we have basically only had dogs or cats … (5 pts) • We’ve had lots of different kinds of animals … (8 pts)

Which best describes your sense of humor? • We have none … (0 pts) • We’re a pretty serious bunch … (1 pt) • About average … (5 pts) • We never get upset – we laugh it off … (8 pts)

What are your sleeping habits? • We’re light sleepers and can’t deal with being wakened from a sound sleep … (1 pt) • We hate to deviate from our sleep schedule and use weekends to catch up on sleep … (2 pts) • We’re night owls and nap during the day … (3 pts) • We’re flexible – if a project calls for staying up late or getting up early to finish it, we do whatever … (7 pts)

Which best describes your family’s vacation habits? • We love vacations and often travel for weeks (or months) at a time … (0 pts) • We travel a lot, but we have many relatives and friends who live nearby … (3 pts) • We take the whole family on vacation and typically travel by car. We don’t stay in fancy places and we do lots of outdoor things. … (5 pts) • We don’t travel very much and when we do, it is only long weekends. … (8 pts)

What Your Answers Reveal…

1 – 9 Points Your getting a dog may not be in the dog’s best interest. The poor dog would never see you and when it did, you’d be afraid to touch it. If you really want a pet, tropical fish might work.

10 – 28 Points You should consider adopting a mature dog. From your answers, you may have trouble with the exercise needs of a more energetic dog. You may want to make sure you have someone who will help you with the dog during bad weather or while you are traveling. Have you considered adopting a kitty? 29 – 42 Points You are a good candidate for a dog.

43 – 53 Points Many types of dogs will fit well with your lifestyle. You should consider a fairly active dog and find fun things to do together or as a family.

7 54 – 74 Points A dog - or even two (preferably not from the same litter) - of any type will fit well with your lifestyle. You have the skill and sense of humor to deal with pets that are higher maintenance or highly active.

Questions You Need To Answer Before Deciding On A Dog

The decision to get a dog must involve every family member including prospective family members (are you wanting to have a baby?), members away at school, and grandparents who may spend time in your home. You should write down the answers to the questions below only after thinking through your responses.

Who wants a dog? Does everyone in the family want a dog? (If Dad wants the dog and Mom will be the caregiver, the situation may not work. If the parents are getting a dog to teach the child(ren) responsibility but the child(ren) don’t really care to have a dog, that is not the best idea.)

Does your living location allow you to have a dog or is it prohibited or limited to certain types? (Check your lease or rent agreement.)

How many are in your family? What ages live in your household?

Is anyone in the family allergic to dogs? (There are dogs that are hypoallergenic, but that will definitely limit the breeds available to you.)

What is your family schedule? Is anyone home during the day? Who will housetrain the dog? Who will take the dog to obedience school?

Who will take responsibility for the dog – clean up messes, feed it, brush it, take it to vet, clip its toenails, bathe it, etc.?

Where do you live? How difficult will it be to take the dog out to potty? Can it go out in a fenced yard? Is there a good place to walk a dog? Is there a or other place for the dog to romp? How much room is there for a dog?

How difficult will it be to take the dog to the vet? Do you have a car?

Do you have the finances to care for a dog? You will need to pay for the dog, vet bills, food bills, perhaps grooming, etc.

Is barking a problem you do not want or cannot have? Again, that helps determine the breeds.

How much time will you normally be able to spend with a dog? Dogs are social creatures, so if you work long hours or travel a lot and there are not other family members at home, another pet might be better for you.

What Is Your Family Type?

Many singles get a dog for company or protection. Those are good reasons to get a dog, but if you are single and you work long hours, travel more than 25% of the time, or go out every night after work, you will have a very lonely, bored and

8 unhappy dog at home who will find something to occupy his mind and energy. Chances are great that you will not be happy with his ideas of what to do.

Often a family will decide to get a dog to “teach Junior responsibility.” However, Junior needs to learn responsibility before you get the dog and Junior has to want the dog so badly he agrees to care for the dog. A child younger than 10-12 years of age is really not able and ready to care for a dog day in and day out, so it is unrealistic to expect that.

One person needs to be “in charge” of the dog’s care. That person needs to make sure the dog has plenty of clean drinking water at all times, is fed on time, is properly housetrained, is neutered, is vaccinated on time and taken to vet for anything else that needs a vet’s attention, gets basic obedience training, and gets plenty of exercise as well as whatever will keep the dog busy.

That person does not have to do all of those things himself or herself, but does need to make sure they get done. If the person “in charge” is not really in agreement with getting a dog or wants a different kind of dog from the one that is purchased, then it will be difficult to make the situation work.

A family that is expecting a baby or has an elderly person living in the household needs to consider carefully the type or breed of dog they get.

A large, highly energetic puppy that does not mature until it is 2-3 years of age will end up knocking the baby or grandma down many times, causing many trips to the emergency room. That family may have their heart set on a , so instead of getting a puppy, they may want to get a 2-4 year old retriever or retriever mix from a shelter.

On the other hand, the general advice of “if you live in an apartment, you need to get a small dog” is not necessarily the best advice. Small dogs are often more prone to barking episodes (which bother neighbors) than large dogs.

Many apartment dwellers have large dogs like Labrador , Golden Retrievers, German Shepherds, Collies, and even Bernese Mountain Dogs. If these large breeds are taken daily to a park where they can run and romp, play fetch or Frisbee, or go on long walks or go jogging with you, they are often very content living in smaller quarters.

It is ideal if they can go outside periodically, like on an enclosed deck or fenced patio. The larger breeds often become more lethargic once they pass the puppy stage. The bigger issue is whether or not the owner has a vehicle to take the dog to the parks and vet.

Gustav (a 110-lb Bernese Mountain Dog) and his friend Misti (a 70-lb Flat-Coated Retriever) have been playing in the snow. They live in apartments across the hall from each other in Michigan.

They play together several times a week and their owners take them for at least two long walks a day. Each has a fenced deck from which he/she can watch people, dogs getting walked, and each other.

9 What Is Your Attitude?

Your attitude is a huge factor in succeeding in dog ownership. You need to be positive and expect the best of your dog. You need to plan for training your dog and follow through with doing it.

If you find a puppy class and other training classes and schedule the time to take your dog to class and to work with him every day, you will have a happy dog and you will be a happy dog owner.

Some questions that you still may need to answer before getting your dog:

Will you work to be a good pack leader?

Will you provide social interaction with other dogs and with other people to help your dog?

Will you teach good manners to your dog so that others will enjoy being around him/her?

Will you provide training and discipline for your dog so that he understands your expectations of him and knows his parameters?

Will you work to resolve behavioral problems (and even spend money to get some help)?

Are you committed to caring for your dog for 12+ years?

Will you adjust your household routines and priorities so that the dog’s needs can be met?

If you answered with anything other than a resound “yes” to any of these questions, think some more about owning a dog – and read the rest of this book before getting a dog! If you wait until after you get your dog to start figuring out what to do, your dog will have plenty of time to figure out what to do and you may not like his ideas.

Plan ahead. Read about the type of dog you are getting; know what characteristics to expect; decide how you will deal with less desirable characteristics and how to motivate your dog to do positive things.

Consider The Costs Of Dog Ownership

It is important that you carefully consider the costs involved in owning a dog before you get one and find out you cannot afford a dog or cannot afford the large dog you got.

There are certain “start-up” costs like fencing, dog bowls, dog bed, crate, leash, collar, etc. that you will only purchase once. You may need to purchase a new leash and collar every two or three years, more often if the dog is allowed to chew them.

If you get a puppy, you will have puppy shots during the first year. After you have had your dog a year, the annual costs will be about the same each year unless your dog has health problems or you need to board your dog frequently.

10 Costs differ in different geographic locations, so check prices in your locality before you get a dog. Some costs vary based on the size of the dog. For example, vaccinations will cost more for a large dog than for a small dog since the amount needed is based on the dog’s weight.

Here is a chart of average costs based on a 65-pound dog in the Midwestern part of the United States; however, it does not include possible needs like gates, doggie doors, car or truck restraints, etc. that you may want or need.

There is a place for you to put in the costs in your area for the size dog you will be getting.

One Time Cost Average Cost $ Your Cost $ Fence - $300 - 1500 Varies Bowls 25.00 Collar 6.00 Training Collar 10.00 Leash 12.00 Bed 40.00 Crate 100.00 Brush/grooming tools 20.00 Shampoo/coat care 15.00

Neuter/spay (based on weight) 300.00 Microchip 50.00

Puppy Costs

Check-up, series of 4 sets of vaccines, worming, heartworm test 300.00 Puppy Food 450.00 Toys/Treats 65.00

Annual Costs Vaccinations 185.00 Heartworm Test 35.00 Heartworm Preventative (based on weight) 65.00 Flea/Tick Preventative (based on weight) 120.00 Food 480.00 Toys/Treats 45.00 Tag 5.00

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Other Costs Boarding - per day with 2 playtimes 25.00 Grooming - per time 50.00 Training classes per 6-8 classes 100.00 Individual Training per session 100.00

As you can readily see, the first year you have your dog you will spend $1,500 to $2,500 and that does not include the price of the dog!

After the first year you will spend less per year – about $1,000.

Smaller dogs cost a bit less and larger dogs cost more. Mutts cost less than purebreds, which cost less than some designer dogs.

12 CHAPTER 2 – DECIDING ON THE RIGHT DOG

There are several things you must consider and decide before you start looking for a dog. Starting with physical attributes, you must decide how large you want this dog to be when he/she is fully grown, whether you want a male or a female, what age you want to start with, and whether the dog will be neutered/spayed.

Size

If your dog is a mixed breed dog or a designer (hybrid) dog, its fully-grown size may be an unknown. The closest you will be able to estimate is that it should be ‘not much larger than the largest breed’ in its background and ‘not much smaller than the smallest breed’ in its background!

Age

Puppies

Puppies of nearly all dogs are cute and cuddly . . . and full of energy. They will go like crazy and then crash for a quick nap. But while they go like crazy, they can be racing through your house or tearing up your rug or furniture or they can be having a wonderful time playing with you or learning something new or going for a walk or a short jog.

Puppies will need things to chew. They have “milk” or “puppy” teeth. These teeth are very sharp and they will use them on anything they find if they are not given the correct things to chew. You will have to be careful to keep personal belongings away from a puppy. As the puppy’s adult teeth start coming in, he will need to chew even more to help them break through his gums and to loosen and get rid of the puppy teeth.

A puppy will have to be housetrained. There is no way around this process and the ensuing messes and loss of sleep; however, if you are consistent, it will not last more than a few weeks. Just make sure you start right away.

Seldom are puppies available at a shelter, so you will most likely need to find a breeder if you have your heart set on a puppy. However, it is worth checking the shelters because sometimes they get a pregnant dog and then have young puppies available.

There are problems that are more likely to happen with puppies than with adult dogs. See “10 Common Problems of Newly Adopted Puppies” for an idea of what some of those problems are and how to resolve them. In most cases, they simply take a little special care and consistency in training.

13 Adult Dogs

Adult dogs may be calmer because they are past the stage of boundless energy. They are more content to lie near you without causing problems or chewing up something. They may be more accepting of change and new people – or they may be less accepting.

An adult dog may have had some housetraining, but plan to start at the beginning. That way your dog will know your expectations and you will know what housetraining he has had. If he had housetraining and it was consistent and your housetraining is consistent, he will train very quickly and easily. Even if he was given up because he was hard to housetrain, a new owner and new circumstances may make a world of difference to him.

An adult dog will not be teething, so a couple of chew toys should take care of any need to chew. If he chews a lot or chews up personal items, rugs, or furniture, you will need to immediately crate train him and put him in the crate or his own room every minute you are not watching him.

The adult dog will not be going through adolescence, so will not have all the issues of an adolescent dog. Chances of finding an adult dog of your desires are great since the majority of dogs at shelters and available from breed rescues and other sources are adults.

There are problems that are more likely to happen with adult dogs than with puppies. See “10 Common Problems of Newly Adopted Adult Dogs” for an idea of what some of those problems are and how to resolve them. In most cases, they simply take a little special care and consistency in training.

Adolescent Dogs

Adolescent dogs are often available for adoption for various reasons.

Sometimes a breeder has kept a dog because “it might make a good show dog” and then decided to sell it as a family dog.

People get a puppy but when it gets through the cute stage or the children lose interest in it, it ends up in a shelter.

A family will let their dog get pregnant, but then have trouble placing all the puppies and end up taking them to a shelter.

Adolescence is the highest energy time of a dog’s life. An adolescent dog will have to have immediate and persistent training and lots of exercise. Just as with teenaged children, you will need to understand how to effectively discipline and train and re-train an adolescent.

Senior Dogs

If you want a fairly inactive dog, there are even senior dogs available for adoption. Senior dogs make great pets because they are very grateful for your attention and love. Most senior dogs are available because their owners could no longer care for them due to illness, age, death, or a move.

14 They are dogs who have been socialized and trained and loved. The main problems you would have with them are due to their not understanding their circumstances, but your love and consistency will soon have them thriving.

Senior citizens or those living in an apartment or place where walking a dog is a problem would do well to consider adopting a senior dog. Senior dogs are often available at shelters as well as through www.petfinder.com and www.srdog.com . For other senior dogs available simply Google ‘senior dogs’.

Gender: Male or Female

The next question – male or female – has pros and cons to both options. Those pros and cons will be presented so that you can make an informed decision.

A dog-trainer friend always answers the question “what kind of dog should I get?” with one word: “Female.” Although that does not convey what breed, it says a lot about whether a male or female makes a better family dog or is easier to train.

Females (bitches) are usually slightly smaller than their male counterparts. They tend to be more homebound. Most females settle down earlier in life than males and are less aggressive throughout their lives.

Males are usually slightly larger and heavier than females. They also are more likely to wander, have more of a hunting instinct (in hunting breeds), and if they are not neutered, they will seek out females at every opportunity. They will also be more aggressive and competitive than their female counterparts.

Males are usually easier to find at shelters and are often available from litters as many people prefer females for their ability to be more easily trained and their better behavior in general.

If you are looking for a dog that is protective, the breed matters more than the gender. There are females in some breeds that are much more protective than the males of the breed.

Approximately three males to every two females are seen by pet behaviorists. Male dogs tend to be slightly more aggressive and competitive from an early age. This can lead to difficulties if not channeled in the right direction.

It is important to pay attention to which sex dog you get if this will be a second dog in your household. Frequently two males will not get along (even if they are different breeds) nearly as well as two females or a male and a female. If you already have a female, she will often “adopt” a puppy and will not care if it is male or female and will even allow a male to become the alpha dog when he grows up and “earns” that privilege in her eyes.

15 If you already have a male, bringing home another male will cause tension in your household for months to come. The breed of each dog and the age of each dog figures into the situation, so be sure to talk to the breeder or the people at the shelter and find out their thinking on what you should expect.

Neuter / Spay Or Not

Generally neutered animals make better pets than un-neutered animals.

Spaying and neutering helps dogs live longer, healthier lives. That reduces the number of incidences of health problems you have to treat them for which reduces the number of vet trips and the expense of treatment.

Neutering makes animals more affectionate and loyal and less likely to want to roam or run away.

Sterilized dogs exhibit far fewer behavior and temperament problems (such as marking, biting, growling) than un-sterilized dogs. They are usually calmer and less likely to bite.

Neutered dogs seem to focus more on the people in their pack (family) and how to please those people than on themselves while un-sterilized dogs focus more on their own needs and wants which makes them more trainable.

Neutered Male Dogs

Neutered male dogs are less likely to get into trouble with other males (meaning, they won’t be prone to fighting so they won’t get injured or injure someone else’s pet).

They will not be as likely to mount animals, people, and furniture.

They will be much less likely to roam or accidentally run away.

And they won’t be frustrated if they smell a bitch in heat in the neighborhood (or a few miles away).

Neutering a male dog eliminates testicular cancer and decreases the incidence of prostate cancer.

While a neutered male may still sometimes mark his territory, he will not be compelled to do it on a daily basis, in so many places, or every time he smells another dog.

Neutered males are much easier to train, especially obedience train, because they are not as interested in every other dog and they have more desire to please you.

16 Spayed (Neutered) Females

Spayed (neutered) females do not have the nuisance of a heat cycle for three weeks every six months (meaning you do not have the constant crying and fussing or the smell and mess of the blood everywhere the dog is and you do not have all the male dogs visiting).

Spayed females have zero incidence of ovarian or uterine cancer (both the ovaries and uterus are removed) and very low incidence of breast cancer compared to intact females. This is especially true if the female is spayed prior to her first estrous cycle.

Spayed females still have a ‘mothering’ nature and will adopt another dog or a cat or a child and become very attentive to them. They will also lavish their attention and desire to please on you. That will be an aid to training.

Dogs that are adopted from a shelter or humane society will be neutered while at that facility or you will be given a certificate to take to a particular vet to have the neutering done.

Part of your contract will be to agree to have the dog neutered and part of your payment will be for that procedure. If you adopt a dog through www.PetFinder.com or www.Pets911.com, you will agree to have the dog neutered and report the date and name of the vet who did the surgery afterward. (If you do not, they will call you until you get it done or surrender the dog.)

Communities spend millions of dollars to control unwanted animals. Most townships or counties support animal shelters and pay the staff and vets as well as animal control officers in several police and sheriff’s departments using your tax dollars.

The animals not only have to be housed, they have to be fed, trained, fostered, evaluated, and treated for diseases they have. Then they have to be neutered or euthanized (killed) depending upon whether they are candidates for adoption or not. Animal shelters are overburdened.

There are many objections people raise to spaying and neutering. Very few have any truth to them.

Myths On Dog Neuter & Spay

My dog will get fat and lazy.

Dogs get fat and lazy because their owners feed them too much (often including table scraps) and don’t work on getting them enough exercise.

I’ve heard it is better to wait until after the first estrus or after the bitch has a litter.

Medical evidence proves otherwise. Studies show that females spayed prior to their first estrus are healthier. Check with your veterinarian to see what age he prefers as some spay dogs as young as three months but many wait until 5-6 months.

17 I want my children to witness the birth of a litter or get to play with puppies.

Guess what – your dog will probably have her puppies at night in seclusion and your children will not want to get out of bed to see it. If they do, they will announce it is yucky and go back to bed.

You will not only lose sleep witnessing it, but you will have to help the mother and possibly take her and her babies to an emergency clinic in the middle of the night. Then you will have 8-12 weeks of messes and expenses.

There are great movies you can get for your children to watch. There are petting zoos, farms, and museums that keep animals where your children can go and play with them. County fairs are a great place to learn more about all types of animals – and sometimes witness birth and young animals.

My dog is a purebred or I want to have a litter just like my dog.

Did you know that at least one of every four dogs at shelters are purebred? Many of these will have to be euthanized even though they are beautiful purebred dogs. There are too many dogs!

Your dog’s offspring may or may not be ‘just like her’ – even professional breeders who follow generations of bloodlines cannot guarantee what appearance and temperament will come of breeding.

I want my dog to be protective.

A dog’s personality and temperament is formed more by genetics and environment than by sex hormones. If his breeding is toward being protective by nature, that will not change with neutering. In fact, he will probably be more focused on you than before.

I don’t want my male dog to be any less of a male or I wouldn’t want that done to me!

Male dogs do not have male egos like men do. Male dogs have the same personality and instincts after neutering that they had before but are easier to train in controlling some of the less desirable instincts (like marking).

Just as a vasectomy does not change the personality or maleness of a human man and a ‘tubal ligation’ does not change the personality or femaleness of a human woman, neutering and spaying does not change the dog’s personality.

A dog that was Alpha prior to neutering will still be Alpha and one that was submissive will still be submissive. People project their own feelings, personalities and desires onto their pets, but the pets really do not act, react, or behave in the same ways or for the same reasons that humans do.

What To Expect

Female dogs are neutered (which is called spayed) by removing their reproductive organs while they are under anesthesia. Most dogs will not be allowed food or water for about 12 hours prior to surgery and the surgery will be done during the morning hours.

18 Most clinics will want the dog there some time between 7:00 AM and 8:00 AM. They will do the surgery and then monitor the dog during recovery and give you a phone call to know how things went and when to pick your dog up.

In most cases, you will be able to take your dog home in the late afternoon or early evening. She will be a little less energetic for a day or two and will need to go back in a few days for a check up and to get the stitches removed.

The hardest part will be keeping her from jumping or licking the stitches for 3-4 days after the surgery.

Male dogs are neutered by removing their testicles (reproductive organs) while they are under anesthesia. Most dogs will not be allowed food or water for about 12 hours prior to surgery and the surgery will be done during the morning hours.

Most clinics will want the dog there some time between 7:00 AM and 8:00 AM. They will do the surgery and then monitor the dog during recovery and give you a phone call to know how things went and when to pick your dog up.

In most cases, you will be able to take your dog home in the late afternoon or early evening. He may be a little less energetic for a day or two and may need to go back in a few days for a check up.

The hardest part will be keeping him from jumping for 3-4 days after the surgery.

Spay or neuter surgery is a one-time cost. It is relatively small compared with the costs of caring for a pet with cancer or caring for a pet having babies.

Cost is based on the weight of the dog at the time of the surgery since the amount of anesthesia, number of stitches, amount of pain medicine, and even time involved in surgery increase as the animal’s size increases.

Therefore, the younger the dog at the time of surgery, the less it will weigh. (Also a younger dog will be more likely to have a good outcome with less recovery time needed.)

Whether you are the person who owns the bitch having puppies or the owner of the male who impregnated the bitch, it is your responsibility to pay for the bitch’s prenatal vet visits, her delivery (whelping) including vet assistance or Cesarean section if needed, special food for the bitch and puppies and all the care and shots for the puppies until they find good homes at 8-12 weeks of age.

You will also have a huge time investment in caring for and training the puppies. Lawsuits against owners of unsterilized males that impregnate bitches are becoming more common and the settlements against the owner of the male are getting larger.

If you need help paying for your dog to be neutered/spayed, ask your vet if they have or know of a reduced price clinic or a pay-according-to-your-income clinic.

Many shelters can also help you find reduced price neutering. Other resources include www.Pets911.com and www.spayusa.org (or call them at 1-800-248-7729).

19 To see a video about Spaying and Neutering, click on the link below and then look to the right side of the page where it says “Watch the Video”: www.hsus.org/pets/pet_care/why_you_should_spay_or_neuter_your_pet.html

20 CHAPTER 3 – WHAT KIND OF DOG IS BEST FOR YOU?

What Do I Need To Understand About Dogs?

Before you get a dog, you need to understand that they are pack animals. Every dog can say that his ancestor was a wolf-type animal who ran in packs. If dogs are allowed to run loose, they will find other dogs to run with so that a pack develops. Whenever there are two or more dogs, there is always a pack leader who is sometimes referred to as the Alpha Dog. All the other dogs in the pack are submissive to the Alpha Dog.

When a dog is in a human family, the dog must not be allowed to be the Alpha Dog. One or all of the humans must establish himself or themselves as Alpha (or dominant) over the dog.

With some breeds like those in the herding and sporting groups, this only needs to be established during the first few weeks the dog is in your household or if another dog or person is introduced to the household.

Other breeds need to be constantly reminded as they will test you to see if they can be Alpha Dog on a weekly or daily or hourly basis. If this happens to be a large breed or an aggressive breed, being lax in your Alpha Dog posture even for a few minutes will spell disaster for your relationship and could even put your well being or someone else’s in danger.

Purebred dogs have been bred for many generations and must “answer” to a breed standard. That standard says what the dogs of the breed are supposed to look like and act like. Reputable breeders will make sure that any of their puppies that do not match the standard are not bred.

When you purchase a purebred dog, you know exactly what you are getting. His temperament, size, and care are well defined. You will also know what its strengths and weaknesses are. For instance, you will be able to predict its abilities for obedience or agility training and you will know if it should be good with children or not.

While some people argue that purebred dogs have become too inbred, most breeds now have good genetic testing to make sure that problems are not perpetuated. This has begun to reduce the incidence of some of the heritable diseases. It has also encouraged breeders in one area to seek out breeders in another area to help broaden the gene pools.

All breeders should be able to trace a puppy’s lineage and basic genetics at least 3-5 generations and will probably be able to tell you about the temperaments and traits of those generations.

Usually the Mixed Breed or Mutt has a variety of breeds in his background or he is the result of an accidental breeding. That means that by looking at his appearance and watching his behavior, those who are familiar with a variety of breeds may be able to tell you some of the breeds in his background and give you some idea of what to expect of your dog and how to work with him.

21 On the other hand, a Designer or Hybrid Dog is the result of a purposeful cross of two purebred dogs with the intent of producing certain looks and traits. If you are thinking of getting one of these types of dogs, you will want to read the information about the breeds in their backgrounds. You could get any combination of good and bad characteristics.

Mixed breeds or mutts are readily available at shelters. Designer or hybrid dogs tend to be more expensive than purebred dogs and you may have to go quite a distance to pick up the specific designer breed dog you want.

Herding Dogs

The Herding Group was part of the Working Group until 1983. All breeds in this group have the ability and inborn drive to control the movement of other animals – even the one-foot-tall Corgi that can drive a herd of cows many times its size to pasture by leaping and nipping at their heels.

Most herding dogs become companion dogs or family pets and never have the opportunity to use their instincts to herd farm animals. However, their instincts prompt them to gently herd their owners, especially the children of the family.

In general, these breeds are very intelligent dogs that make excellent companions and family pets. They are gentle and patient with young children and relentless in keeping them within the boundaries of their yard. They are tolerant of all the comings and goings of a family of growing children.

The herding dogs respond beautifully to training. They are excellent at obedience and agility and even the larger specimens of the group are great candidates for the first-time trainer (adult or child of 10 years or older).

Most are excellent watchdogs because they announce everyone and are very possessive of their family members. They will growl and bare their teeth if they feel a stranger (especially in their house or yard) poses any type of threat. Several of these breeds are used extensively for police work.

Some herding dogs herd by circling – Australian Shepherd, Border Collie, Collie and Shetland Sheepdog. Some herding dogs are “heelers” who work by nipping at the heels of the animals being herded – Australian Cattle Dog and Pembroke Welsh Corgi.

Some dogs use a combination of chasing, circling and nipping – Belgian Malinois, Belgian Shepherd, German Shepherd, and Belgian Tervuren. They will treat your family with their herding techniques to make sure they can keep track of everyone at all times. If that bothers you, a is not for you.

All dogs in this group can be seen at www.akc.org/breeds/herding_group.cfm

22 Sporting Dogs

Sporting dogs are active and alert and love to be outdoors since they have been bred for centuries to be hunting companions. The group includes the pointers, retrievers, , and . They have a lot of energy and very active minds.

Many of the dogs in this group love to swim, but not all of them are great in the water, so watch them carefully the first couple of times to make sure they can handle themselves in the water. These dogs love to work and play games. They make great companion dogs since they love to please their owners (like by bringing the ducks back to you).

Training these breeds is fairly easy with their high level of intelligence. They are easy to housetrain. Socialization, manners, and obedience training should begin immediately with your dog to keep bad habits away. They often are mischievous if not given jobs to do to occupy their bodies and minds.

They are great obedience and agility dogs. They do need regular, invigorating exercise like long runs and walks daily or hunting and field activities or training for agility or flyball.

These are very loving dogs who like to be near their people. These make some of the best “family dogs” you will find because they are usually excellent with children of all ages. They are also good companion dogs for singles of all ages and love to simply be near their owners.

These are dogs that children aged 12 years and older can enjoy training in obedience, agility, and other activities. Because they are medium to large in size, they are too heavy and strong for children younger than 12 to handle alone, so a parent needs to work with the child and dog. They are often used as guide dogs for the blind and deaf, therapy dogs, assistants to handicapped, and search and rescue dogs.

As a group, many of them are prone to ear infections. Because they are large dogs, they are prone to hip and elbow dysplasia. Cancer can be prevalent in some lines, so be sure to ask about it.

The number is parentheses shows the breed’s ranking in popularity by number of AKC registrations in 2006. The most popular dog of 2006, the Labrador Retriever, and three more of the top twenty are from this group. Nearly 30% of all dogs registered by the American Kennel Club in 2006 were sporting dogs.

All dogs in this group can be seen at www.akc.org/breeds/sporting_group.cfm .

Working Dogs

The dogs of the Working Group were bred specifically to perform such jobs as guarding property, pulling sleds and performing water rescues. They have been invaluable assets to man throughout the ages. As a group, these are the large and giant sized dogs.

Most are massive in frame, well muscled and weigh 85 to 100 pounds, with several weighing up to 130 pounds. A couple even weight up to 200 pounds! The Bernese Mountain Dog, Doberman , Siberian Husky and Great Dane are included in this

23 group. By virtue of their size alone, these dogs must be thoroughly socialized with people and other dogs.

Obedience training is critical for the owner to be able to control them. Just as important is teaching these dogs not to pull when on a leash as any one of them could easily pull a grown man down and drag him quite a distance without doing it intentionally.

These dogs are highly intelligent and quick to learn, with a high desire to please their owners. They are great dogs to train for obedience, and some are superb for agility. The Doberman Pinscher and love agility and it keeps their minds busy as well as working off some of their energy. Some of the breeds like the Bernese Mountain Dog are too heavy and lumbering to do agility safely.

They are all loyal companion dogs who are great for singles, couples, or families (with no small children) with a very securely fenced yard. They are not dogs that can be left outdoors as they were bred to work closely with a handler and crave the human contact.

Several are very sensitive to either hot or cold so care must be taken to keep them cool in summer or warm in winter. Most have heavy coats (some long and some short) that they shed twice a year, so weekly or biweekly brushing is necessary; however, only the Russian Black , Portuguese and Giant and Standard actually need professional grooming. The upside to that is that the Portuguese Water Dog and Shnauzers do not shed and are virtually hypo-allergenic.

Their considerable dimensions and strength alone, however, make many working dogs unsuitable as pets for average families. Learn about the background of the you are considering. That will give you an idea of the traits and personality to expect.

For example, a Bullmastiff was bred to guard and to capture intruders, so you would expect him not to accept strangers into your home. In fact, he will knock them down and hold them by standing on them. If this bothers you, don’t get a Bullmastiff.

To see all dogs in this group, visit www.akc.org/breeds/working_group.cfm .

Hound Dogs

All were bred to be hunting dogs. Most use scent or sight to find and follow their prey. A few use both scent and sight. Those that use scent have incredible powers of smell and will go many miles to follow a scent. Often they follow their noses for hours and have no idea where they have been, so if they get outside your fence, they will soon be lost and may never find their way home.

A good fence is essential for hounds. A secure leash is a must for any time the dog is outside the fence – that includes in the car.

Hounds tend to be fairly popular. Greyhounds are raced and then often become “rescued” family dogs. Several members of the group are used regularly for hunting. Others, like Beagles, are popular as family dogs. Members of this group are often available for adoption in Humane Societies and shelters.

24 Some hounds bay instead of barking. It is best to know and listen to the barking or baying of the hound breed you are considering before you actually get one. Also, be aware that housetraining can be a problem with some members of this group since scent-hounds do not care where they potty and will go the same place they have gone before no matter how well you clean it.

Most hounds are very loyal and loving as long as you keep them securely in your fence. They want to please and be with you – unless they see or smell a rabbit. They have incredible energy and stamina, so the long-legged members of this group can go great distances in very short amounts of time.

All need adequate exercise, but what that means varies from one breed to another based on whether they are scent hounds, sight hounds, short-legged, long-legged, etc.

Training with hounds should start early and be very persistent and consistent. Praise does not mean much to them, but food is an effective motivator. This is a group in which many member breeds do not know when to stop eating so can never be free fed (where food is left out for them all the time) or trusted with food on the counter or table.

The tall, thin members of this group need a veterinarian who is familiar with treating them and understands how to deal with bloat and their sensitivity to anesthesia and many medicines. Most are fairly easy to groom at home and need only brushing and nail trimming.

To see all dogs in this group, visit www.akc.org/breeds/hound_group.cfm .

Terriers

There is a distinctive Terrier personality. It is feisty and energetic with high tendencies toward digging and barking. Most terriers have very little tolerance for any other animals in the household and will chase them with the intent to kill them. They will not even tolerate other dogs usually.

Just remember that they have centuries of breeding to hunt and kill vermin as their background. Most were bred to dig in order to get to burrowing vermin, so if you want a dog that does not dig, you will be unhappy with a terrier.

Terriers love an argument, meaning they will get into a barking match with any dog passing by or living in a yard down the street. They are generally barkers, but most can be taught to quit when told if you start working with them when they are young.

They vary in size from the small Cairn Terriers to the large Airedale Terriers. The majorities have wiry coats (although the Australian Terrier and Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier are exceptions), which require special care called stripping that is normally done by a groomer every 6-8 weeks.

Many of the terriers adapt well to apartment living and love playing inside and going for walks. When assimilated correctly into a family (usually as the only pet), they are lively participants who love each member of the family. However, they need to be kept busy.

25 Early socialization, crate training, and obedience training will go a long ways in making a terrier a good family member. Most terriers love the challenges presented by training for competition in obedience or agility.

At least seven of the terriers are excellent choices for allergy sufferers. There are ten terriers that are appropriate for families, several of which are also good choices if family members have allergies. A number of terriers are great pets for singles or childless couples.

The popularity of the Terrier group has been decreasing – from 27% of the dogs registered by the AKC to only 6% in 2006. However, the AKC has recently recognized several terrier breeds for the first time.

These breeds have pleasing personalities for family pets, reasonably long lifespans, and few disease problems. Therefore, some terriers you may never have seen or heard of may soon become common in U.S. neighborhoods.

To see all the Terriers, visit www.akc.org/breeds/terrier_group.cfm .

Non-Sporting Dogs

This is a group of dogs that has little in common. Some are very popular and you will instantly recognize them – Frise, Boston Terrier, Bulldog, Dalmatian, Lhasa Apso and Poodle - while others such as the Löwchen or Tibetan Terrier - you may never see. Several are heat sensitive.

Those with short faces and barrel chests like the Bulldog, French Bulldog, Chinese Shar- Pei and Chow Chow are prone to breathing problems in hot and humid weather.

The Arctic breeds like the American Eskimo Dog, Finnish , Keeshond, Schipperke, Tibetan and Tibetan Terrier suffer in hot weather because they were bred to have a very heavy coat.

Most were bred to be working or sporting dogs with specific roles, but normally do not have jobs in today’s society. The most general term to describe them is that they are sturdy dogs that are affectionate and loyal to their owners.

The majorities are very strong in their necks, chests, and front legs and tend to be willful or independent, so socialization and obedience training need to be started early and continued consistently to get a good result.

For the most part, these dogs are great dogs for singles; however, there are several good family dogs in the group. Older children are better than younger children though for the dogs of the Non-Sporting Group.

The largest dogs in this group include the Chinese Shar-Pei, Chow Chow, Dalmatian, Finnish Spitz, Keeshond, Standard American Eskimo and Standard Poodle.

Medium sized dogs are the Miniature American Eskimo, Boston Terrier, Bulldog, French Bulldog, Miniature Poodle, Schipperke, Shiba Inu, and Tibetan Terrier.

26 Toy sized dogs are the Toy American Eskimo, Bichon Frise, Lhasa Apso, Lowchen, Toy Poodle, and Tibetan Spaniel.

One of the highest energy level dogs of all dogs is the Dalmatian; yet, many of this group will be happy living in an apartment.

To see pictures of all these dogs, go to www.akc.org/breeds/non-sporting_group.cfm .

Toy Dogs

Toys are most often the dogs that are bred in puppy mills and sold in pet stores. They can easily steal your heart, but beware. It is very important to research the breed and buy from a reputable breeder who will guarantee their dog and be supportive of you and of the dog for his entire life. It may cost a bit more or take longer to find the right dog, but in the long run it will be worthwhile.

Many Toys can be kept in apartments with lots of play and a few walks as exercise. Most Toys are portable and travel well. Many toys have low dander and little to no shedding, so are great for people with allergies. Toys have longer life expectancies than larger breeds.

On the other hand, many Toys have a lot of sensitivities and allergies themselves. Poodles and others have high levels of grooming that need to be done by a professional every 6-8 weeks for their entire life.

Toys are prone to epilepsy and other seizure-related problems at a higher rate than larger dogs.

Some of the Toys are known to be barkers who will at every sound and yap constantly if left alone, but many are wrongly accused of being barkers.

With all toy breeds, invisible fencing will do a great job of keeping your dog within your yard but does not provide protection from unwanted dogs that can stray into your yard and see your pet as easy prey.

The Toy Group has been steadily on the rise since the 1970’s (12% of the AKC registry). In 2006, 23% of all dogs registered with the AKC were Toys. This is, in part, due to the fact that the U.S. population of baby boomers grew up with dogs but are now retiring and living in condos and apartments and traveling more, so a toy fits their lifestyle better than a larger dog.

Pictures of all the Toys can be seen at www.akc.org/breeds/toy_group.cfm .

Mixed Breed Dogs

Three fourths of the dogs at shelters and humane societies are mixed breed dogs – also referred to as mutts. Many of these are from accidental litters. Usually the only information you have on such dogs is whatever the shelter workers were told or can surmise from observing the dog. They will be your best source of information about the dog’s traits and temperament.

27

Another way to attempt to understand the temperament of a mixed breed dog is to look up all the possible breeds in the cross and then realize that you can get any combination of characteristics in those breeds.

Mixed breed dogs often make excellent pets. They are very loving as a rule and often very devoted to their families. Since they want to please you, they are quite trainable. Do not discount a mixed breed dog.

Designer Or Hybrid Dogs

Have you ever heard of a Schnoodle or a Pekepoo? How about a Puggle or a Labradoodle? Are they really breeds? What can you expect? Do they always have the best traits of the two breeds involved?

These are just four of the names of the more than 450 “designer dogs” that are recognized by the American Canine Hybrid Club (established in 1969). Pictures of many of these can be found at www.dogbreedinfo.com/americancaninehybridclub.htm

Designer dogs are the result of a specific breeding of two purebred dogs with the purpose of creating a litter of puppies with the best traits of the two breeds and hopefully, few of the bad traits of the breeds. The chances of getting perfect puppies are very low; however, the cross may produce healthy, cute puppies with some of the desirable traits.

Since the genes cannot be identified and sorted by hand to create these puppies, many of their traits will not be known until they are adults and may not be fully known if they are never bred.

Purebred dogs were developed for specific purposes such as hunting or herding. Often this was done by crossing two or more ‘founding’ breeds. This created what is called an F1 cross, or first generation cross.

An F2 cross was then created using one of that F1 generation and one from a second litter from the same parents or another set of parents of the same two breeds.

An F3 cross then came from breeding two F2’s and so forth. Over many generations the dogs eventually breed ‘true’ with predictable physical and temperament characteristics and minimal differences.

After a few more generations, a common breed standard is written and a national association begins to register the parental stock. After a few more years, the new breed is recognized. One such ‘success story’ is the Silky Terrier, developed in Australia in the early 1900’s from Yorkshire Terriers and Australian Terriers. It was not recognized by the AKC until 1933, but has become quite popular.

28 Designer dogs are usually the result of the first, second, or third cross. Most are not more than three generations. Therefore, they will not breed true and their recessive genes for various characteristics and temperament traits are relatively unknown. Each particular dog’s size, coat characteristics, tolerance of children, etc. is unpredictable.

Many of the hybrid or designer dogs have some Poodle in them since Poodles are non- shedding and therefore, also relatively hypoallergenic. Any dog with “-poo” or “-oodle” in its ‘breed’ name has Poodle as part of its background. It may or may not have the coat characteristics of the Poodle.

If you have two Pekepoos (Pekinese+Poodle) and breed them, you will not get puppies that look like the parents. Pekepoos and other designer breeds are not true breeds. Nobody knows what will happen with your dog’s gene pool.

The best way to determine the temperament of your hybrid dog is to look up all the breeds in the cross and then realize that you can get any combination of characteristics in those breeds. Not all designer dogs are 50% purebred to 50% purebred.

Some people claim that hybrids tend to bark less and have fewer health problems. Some crossbreds such as a Maltepoo, on the other hand, may be feistier than either of its parents.

Make sure you see both parents and know they are not overly aggressive or shy. Ask for proof that the parent dogs have been screened for health problems common to the breeds involved. A breeding of two breeds prone to eye problems could result in a dog with a combination of eye problems.

Reputable breeders will have screened the breeding parents for genetic diseases and desirable personality characteristics. Prospective buyers should ask for the breeding parents Orthopedic Foundation for Animals (OFA) orthopedic and other breed specific test results and also the Canine Eye Registry (CERF) recent ophthalmologists report for eye disorders. Purchasing a hybrid or designer dog is a situation where “buyers beware” is especially true.

For more information, try the following web sites: www.achclub.com/index.php and www.dogbreedinfo.com .

Be aware that designer dogs may be more expensive than purebred dogs. Because they are so desirable these days, those people breeding them feel they can ask more for them.

You may also have to drive quite a distance to find one which means you will not have a large choice in which litter or which parents your puppy is from or when to add it to your family.

29 CHAPTER 4 – WHERE SHOULD YOU GET A DOG?

So you think you are ready to go pickup your dog. Well, there is more homework to do. While doing this homework, do not put money on a dog and do not bring a dog home.

Make sure you understand the breed(s) well and the nuances of the strains of the breed(s). Getting the right dog takes patience. Doing this homework is critical to your success with your new friend.

Research what breed(s) or type of dog will best fit your situation and expectations. This can be done by doing research on the Internet, starting with www.akc.org and various links from there. Learn as much as you can about the characteristics of the breed.

To find some breeders in your area for the breed(s) in which you are most interested, see the section later in this chapter on getting your dog from a breeder.

Call and make appointments to go see the dogs being raised by two or more breeders. There are often some big differences in traits in two or three strains of the same breed. It does not matter if they have puppies available at that time.

You really need to see and interact with adult dogs to understand the temperament, size, energy, attention needs, etc. of the breed in general. Even if you are going to buy a puppy, it will only be a puppy for a few months but it will be an adult dog for 12+ years!

You also need to talk to and ask the same questions of each breeder concerning the breed in general and their dogs specifically.

Start with these questions, and write down answers (you will think of other questions to add to the list)

What is the normal size of an adult male? Of an adult female?

What differences do you see between males and females?

How much energy do these dogs have?

At what age do they reach physical and emotional maturity?

How trainable are they?

Does this breed need a fenced yard? Will I have to spend a lot of time playing with it or walking it?

How does this breed do with children?

Do these dogs bark a lot? Are they good watchdogs?

How much care does one of these dogs take? Do I need to brush it each day or each week? How often would I need to bathe it? Does it need to go to a professional groomer – how often?

30 Ask about breed-specific health issues – joint problems, eye problems, seizures, etc.?

What is the best thing about this breed? Why do you like them?

What is the hardest thing about this breed?

What kinds of activities do you do with puppies to help socialize them?

What shots do puppies get before you send them to their new homes? Does a vet see them? (Some breeders do their own shots and worming, but it is to your advantage for the puppy to have been seen by a vet.)

When visiting the breeder, look around. Use your eyes and nose.

Is the area where the dogs are kept clean?

Are the dogs glad to see the breeder and others who work with them?

Do the dogs exhibit apprehension or fear?

Are the dogs free of fleas, rashes, hot spots, and other obvious problems?

Is there evidence of other health problems such as diarrhea?

Are the dogs’ coats in good condition or are they dull or matted?

Are the dogs always kept in kennels or do they all get some time in the backyard or in the house?

Go to the state or local rescue organization (the national rescue organizations listed with each breed description is a starting point as someone there can refer you to local organizations).

Usually the dogs they have rescued will be in foster care, and you can call the person fostering them and you can either go see the dog or have them bring the dog to you.

Ask the same questions you asked the breeders plus:

What are the reasons people have for giving these dogs up? Is there something about this breed that makes it difficult for people to keep them?

Are there things you think people should know/understand about this breed before getting a dog of this breed?

What type of training/re-training do you most often have to do?

No puppy should be weaned and taken from its mother before it is 8 weeks of age. Puppies leaving their mother and going to a new home between 8 and 12 weeks will have a great chance to make a healthy transition and adjustment.

31 All puppies should be vet checked and come with a certificate or written statement from the vet that says the vet thinks the puppy is in good health. Puppies should have had their first set of vaccinations and be wormed before they are released for purchase.

Many breeds are prone to congenital or inherited problems such as hip dysplasia (most large breeds) or seizures or back problems (many small breeds), so the parents should be certified to be free of those problems.

Ask the breeder to call you and let you come to visit with puppies. When you go, ask lots of questions. By asking the same questions you have asked the breeders and people from the rescue organization, you will get a feel for whether the people with these puppies have any experience with the breed or simply thought that having a litter of puppies would make a few dollars (which it won’t as puppies generally cost more than you make).

You may also find out that the parents came from one of the breeders whose dogs you have seen. Even if you like the puppies, you may still want to look at some more puppies before purchasing.

By the time you have done this much research and refrained from purchasing a dog at each place, you will begin to feel like you have some expertise on the breed and you will definitely have a much better idea of what type of dog you want (or don’t want).

Now it is time to figure out where to get the puppy or dog of your dreams.

Where To Get Your Puppy?

Pet Store

Why this popular method IS NOT the best choice . . .

Pet stores keep a good supply of “cute” puppies on hand. They like to buy them cheap and sell them for a large profit. Therefore, most of the puppies at a are from “puppy mills” – kennels that are just rows of cages stacked two to three high, each with a mother dog (bitch) who is either pregnant, nursing, or about to get pregnant.

The mother dogs are bred at least once a year and usually twice a year and the puppies are often taken away (weaned) when they are only 5-6 weeks old.

Because the mothers are bred so often, their health is compromised which means the puppies do not get a good start in life. The mothers are often in such poor health or so tired; they do not care for the puppies and nurture them, as they should.

In this setting the puppies have no socialization with other dogs or pets or people, so they have absolutely no social skills. They are not used to being handled by people. They are also taken away from their mothers too young and have behavioral problems due to insecurities and fears.

32 No reputable breeder will allow his or her puppies to be sold in a pet shop. You will usually not be asked to fill out any type of questionnaire to match you to a particular type of dog.

If you do have to fill out a questionnaire, it will be more about what vet you will use and whether you understand the policies of the pet store. You will get no information as to the parents of your dog, where it came from, or what to expect with it. You will also not get any help after purchasing it.

Newspaper Ad

How to make this method work for you . . .

If you are looking for a family pet (also referred to as a ), a newspaper advertisement can be one of your tools for looking for the right dog. That’s right, one of your tools because your other tools will be the American Kennel Club (or UKC in the United Kingdom or CKC in Canada) and several breeders. In order for this method to work for you, you must have done your homework.

The newspaper is a haven for backyard breeders. A backyard breeder is someone who breeds because they believe their dog needs to have a litter to "feel complete" or because they want to make a quick buck.

They may be breeding dogs that are purchased from good breeders, but they are usually breeding dogs without a lot of knowledge about breeding.

Read the ads and look for those that talk about a family environment, but also talk about the puppies, or at least the parents, having been tested for any problems inherent in the breed.

Remember puppies should not be weaned before they are 8 weeks old. And don’t look just at the cheapest ones!

Internet Services

Start by doing the research listed above. You may also want to use a service such as www.PetFinder.com or www.Pet911.com which will list pets in your area that need a home.

Most will be in a foster home. The descriptions given on the listing will be as accurate as possible. You may then call and talk to the person fostering the pet and try to figure out if that pet is a good match for you.

You should then be invited to visit with the pet (or the pet may be brought to you for a visit). The person taking care of the pet will then decide if they think you would do well with that pet and if so, invite you to fill out paperwork to apply to adopt the pet.

The more you know about the breed and what you want, the more likely you will be to find the right fit. Dogs that will be available for adoption through a service will most likely not be puppies unless a pregnant mother was fostered, so this is not the best option if you really want a puppy.

33 Breeder

Where's the best place to find reputable breeders with quality pups?

The best place to get a dog, especially a puppy, is from a reputable breeder. Contact a local or national breed club where you're likely to meet knowledgeable breed enthusiasts. Go to www.akc.org. The national breed club officers can give you information on the club in your area for that breed – either by e-mail or by a phone number listed on the breed club web site.

The best way to find a breeder of a specific breed in your area is to go to the breed club link given with the information for each breed and contact someone in the national breed club.

Sometimes the national breed club web site lists regional clubs and their contact information. Use the telephone numbers and try to talk with a real person even if they have to call you back later.

That will help you understand if you are looking for the right breed for you and give you more information about the breed. For example, a breeder who is secretary of the national breed club might recommend against getting a heavily coated dog if you live in a very hot climate.

Some clubs publish a breeder's directory. These people often have to meet some criteria before they can list their puppies for sale. They should understand the problems in the breed and what to be careful about and how to take the right precautions or run the right tests.

Ask a veterinarian, trainer, groomer or a friend who owns the breed of puppy you want for the names of reputable breeders. Then make a few calls, and ask for references. It may require some effort to find a breeder with whom you feel comfortable, but the time you spend finding the right breeder will be time well spent in the long run.

You need to find a match for yourself. It's like finding a doctor. You need to find somebody you can communicate with, and who communicates well with you, and who's going to be a support for that first year after you take your dog home.

By reading and using the questions listed at the beginning of this chapter, you will soon understand that a breeder will know a lot about the breed, about the parents and grandparents of your dog, and about the possible problems of a dog of that breed.

A breeder will stand behind his/her dog and take it back or find it a good home if you have any problems. In fact, you may have to sign a contract stating that if you give the dog up for any reason, the breeder must be notified (or the dog will revert back to the breeder).

While you may pay a bit more for a dog purchased from a breeder, you will also get more – the help of the breeder for the life of the dog, guarantees on the dog’s health and temperament, friendship with the breeder and even friendship with owners of dogs related to yours, etc.

34

Breeders will most likely be breeding dogs for showing. Therefore, they will be breeding for a variety of traits that are deemed best for the “ideal” dog of the breed. The better you research and understand the traits that are desired for the breed, the better you will know the “ideal” (called standard) of the breed.

Puppies that do not make the “cut” become family or companion dogs. Usually they don’t make the cut as a show dog because they will be too large or too small for the breed standard.

Or, in some breeds, their ears stand up instead of “breaking” or flop over instead of standing up. If you are purchasing a family dog, those things are not important, but the temperament and trainability are critical.

Most breeders will be happy for you to make an appointment and come to see their dogs. They will not show you all their dogs, but will get two or three out and explain about the breed and show you examples of what they discuss.

They will ask you questions and they will expect you to ask them lots of questions and take notes. They will expect you to get down on the dogs’ level and interact with them.

If you like the dogs a particular breeder has, you will want to get on a waiting list for puppies. Even if you do not purchase one of their puppies, it would be good to go back when they have puppies to observe.

Good breeders seldom have puppies that have not already been assigned, but sometimes an assignment does not work out or the timing is wrong and there will be a puppy available.

In most cases, the breeder will have you fill out extensive paperwork including an assessment of how you spend your time, what you want the dog to do, whether you have the finances to care for the dog properly, and whether you are emotionally ready for a 15-18 year commitment to a dog. Each puppy is also evaluated for its “show dog” traits.

Those who are deemed “family dogs” are then further evaluated to match each one to the right prospective owner. It could take a year or more to have the right puppy become available to match your assessment.

Another thing to request is a list of shows within 4-5 hours’ drive from your home where the breed of interest will be shown. Write down when and where the shows will be and a contact name and phone number. Call the contact and request a show bill and directions to the show. Then pick at least one show and spend the day there.

Walk around. Observe the dogs being prepared, waiting, being shown, interacting with strangers, etc. How do they act? How do they respond? If they are crated, do they whine or bark or do they lie quietly? Do they react in a friendly manner toward other people and other dogs?

Talk to the handlers. The people showing the dogs may or may not own them, but they spend a lot of time with the dogs. Many handlers have worked with a variety of breeds. Often they will be very helpful.

35

Ask questions. If people are preparing a dog to go into the show ring, they will not answer questions (they may seem rude), but if they are just waiting (wandering or sitting), they are usually willing to talk about the dogs they love. Start by saying, “Tell me a little about your dog. I am interested in this breed, but don’t know too much.”

Call a couple of veterinarians in your area and ask if they know of anyone locally who breeds the dogs you desire. Ask if they have dogs of this breed in their practice and what they think about them. Their insight is very helpful.

While you’re looking up veterinarians in the Yellow Pages, also look up . You will need all these phone numbers again when you get ready to interview vets and trainers for your dog. In the meantime, call the trainers or training facilities and ask about breeders of your desired breed in your locality.

You may also want their opinion on a breed or type of dog to fit your lifestyle to make sure you are looking for a good fit.

Shelters & Breed Rescue Organizations

Many shelters, humane societies and rescue groups foster their dogs and then take them to pet supply stores one day a month – “Adoption Day” - for people to see and decide to adopt. Find out if your local pet supply store has such a program.

You may want to see those dogs. Newspapers run pictures of pets for adoption with information as to where to find them.

Shelters and breed rescue organizations seldom have puppies available. Most dogs they have are at least 9 months old, usually older.

The people who work at shelters and breed rescue organizations can rattle off lists of reasons owners give up a dog. Many reasons seem frivolous, some are legitimate, but most would never happen if people thought about and read about the dogs before getting them.

Unfortunately, most of the reasons dogs are given up have to do with owner issues and not dog issues. However, the chances of getting a dog with behavior or health problems is much higher at a shelter or a breed rescue organization than it would be if you got the dog from a breeder.

Humane societies offer animals for adoption. (They also often offer services like training, basic puppy or obedience classes, low cost spay/neuter and discount adoptions for senior citizens.) Basically every county and any city of any size has a Humane Society (or it could be called a shelter or pound).

Look in the Yellow Pages or use Google to find humane societies in your locality by looking for ‘name of your county/city state humane society’ or ‘name of your county/city state dog shelter.’ Remember that several states may have a county or town by the same name so make sure that the one you find is truly in your city or county in your state.

To find the breed rescue organization for the breed you want, go to www.akc.org.

36 Places to look for your local shelter: www.hsus.org (The Humane Society of the United States) www.pets911.com/organizations/organizations.php www.aspca.org/site/PageServer?pagename=shelter_2k5_searchShelter (American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals)

Typical Adoption Process At A Humane Society Or Shelter

After you have fallen in love with the animal you would like to make part of your family, you will go through the following steps:

Step 1

Fill out an application and pay the adoption fee for the animal you've selected. Adoption fees range between $40 and $150 depending on the shelter’s fee scale and the age of the animal.

Some cities require a dog tax be paid, so you would also pay that at the Humane Society.

Please note that some pets may have an increased adoption fee if they are part of a Survivor Program (a pet who has required special vet services to save its life or make it healthy and adoptable), while others may have a discounted fee if they have been at the shelter for an extended period of time.

Some shelters use color-coded tags for dogs that have special needs or special medical needs or are suited to adult-only homes. Since all dogs leaving a shelter must be neutered/spayed, you may have to pay a fee for that or you may receive a certificate for a discounted fee at particular vets.

You must be at least 18 (21 in some states) years old to adopt a pet. There are special breed adoptions that require adopters be at least 21 years old (e.g., Pit Bulls).

The Humane Society must be able to verify home ownership, or verify that your landlord will allow you to have a dog. If you live with your parents, they must be present at the point of adoption.

You must have a personal phone number (e.g. home phone, personal cell phone), and a copy of your driver's license or State ID.

If you currently have a dog(s), you may be required to bring your dog in for an introduction before taking home your new family member.

If you have children (under the age of 16), it is highly recommended, usually required, that they too be introduced to any prospective adoptee to ensure compatibility.

37 For some special breed or special needs adoptions, a home visit or proof of financial capability may be required.

Step 2

Your application will be processed by an adoption counselor, and you may pick up your pet the same day provided that your new pet has all his/her vaccinations and is cleared to leave the facility.

If additional time is required to allow your family time to prepare for your new pet, we can hold your pet for 24 hours provided the adoption fee has been paid in full.

Humane Society management reserves the right to deny any application if it is deemed in the best interest of the animal and/or parties involved.

Adoption Fees typically include:

Free exam at a participating Vet

30 Days of FREE Pet Insurance through the ShelterCare Program

First round of vaccinations (including ) and worming

Heartworm test (dogs)

Coupon for reduced fee for Spay/Neuter Surgery which is MANDATORY, if the dog is not already spayed/neutered

Microchip and Registration which is MANDATORY in most cases

Complimentary bag of dog or cat food (at most shelters)

Special offers from corporate sponsors

Please note that other treatments, medications or procedures your local vet may recommend are NOT included with adoption fees and are the sole responsibility of the adopter.

This includes but is not limited to antibiotics, booster shots, pre-surgical blood work or post operative pain medication associated with the spay/neuter surgery, additional wormings, fecal examinations, flea and tick preventative, and heartworm preventative.

Pets are a lifetime commitment, so it is important to be sure that every member of the family is part of this decision.

This includes other four-legged members of the family as well. There is usually a play yard at the shelter where you and your family can meet your prospective dog for the first time.

Staff members can help the family with this initial introduction, which makes everything smoother on the day your new pet comes home. See Chapter 6 for ways to choose your dog.

38 PAWS (Partnering Animals with Seniors) – available in many places

Humane Societies and shelters are committed to finding loving homes for all of their adoptable animals.

Sometimes it’s more difficult to place ‘senior’ dogs, so in an effort to help improve their chances AND offer seniors in the community an opportunity to spend their golden years filled with unconditional love…the Humane Society may discount the adoption fee for all P.A.W.S eligible animals (senior dogs 5 years or older) for any adopter who is 55 years or older.

A further discount may apply if you adopt two animals. All the benefits still apply. Please note a driver's license or state ID will be required.

39 CHAPTER 5 – CHOOSING YOUR PERFECT PUPPY

The prospective puppy owner's best friend is a reputable breeder, one who breeds healthy, quality dogs. In fact, choosing the right breeder precedes choosing the right pup. The reputable breeder knows his or her pups better than anyone and can best match a pup's personality and abilities with an owner's personality and expectations.

The breeder lives with the puppies for 8+ weeks. They know the puppies that are vocal; they know the ones that are overly active; they know which ones are mischievous; and they know which ones are submissive. Trust the advice of the breeder.

A puppy that runs up and says ‘hi’ to you may or may not be the one for you. However, the puppy that hangs back and is hesitant to meet you may be the one for you just as easily as he may be the one for you to avoid. You need more information. And you need to spend time with the puppies.

It's unlikely an inexperienced buyer, or an experienced dog enthusiast unfamiliar with the breed, can make the determination of which puppy to purchase in a 30-minute visit to the kennel. Once you have found a reputable breeder you like (or a shelter), let someone who has been working with the puppies help you choose the right puppy or assign you the proper puppy for your situation.

When you go to see puppies, take some things with you: some small treats (a handful of puppy kibbles in a sandwich bag), a small towel, a small ball, and a small squeak toy. Check with the owner to make sure the things you have brought are okay to use with the puppy before using any of them. They may be very picky about treats and give you some of theirs to use or they may feel the toys are the wrong size or type.

Select Only A Healthy Puppy

How can you be sure the pup you buy is healthy? A visual inspection can reveal a lot. Generally, healthy pups should:

Be a proper weight (not too chubby or too thin);

Be clean and odor-free, and kept in clean surroundings;

Have clear eyes, not runny or red;

Have a nose that is not running or crusty;

Have white teeth;

Have clean ears;

Have a full, healthy hair coat; the coat may be wooly and not shiny, but there should not be bald patches and it should not be thin or greasy or dry;

40 Not scratch excessively;

Be able to move without lameness or limping; and

Appear well socialized, playful and friendly.

Most purebred dogs today are susceptible to a variety of heritable diseases, which cannot be pinpointed by a quick once-over.

Hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia and retinal deformities are the most common conditions found in large dog breeds; cardiac disorders and epilepsy also affect many breeds. Learn what heritable diseases are common to the breed you want and learn the questions to ask.

Prospective owners should deal only with breeders who routinely screen for diseases and conditions that affect the breed. Ask for the breeding parents Orthopedic Foundation for Animals (OFA) orthopedic and other breed specific test results and also the Canine Eye Registry (CERF) recent ophthalmologists report for eye disorders. This is the best assurance - though it's no guarantee - of taking home a puppy that's free of these conditions.

You should also ask to see the puppy's health record. And, after you buy a puppy, take it to your veterinarian right away for a complete exam.

Don’t get the first one you see!

Raising a puppy requires commitment. It's like bringing an infant into your home. You're making a 12- or 13-year commitment. Look around, and then look around some more. Check out various breeders and check out several litters. It doesn't have to be the first puppy you see. Make sure it's one that's going to fit your situation.

Ask yourself if you're ready to own a dog. Make sure that your life is stable, and that you're going to be able to provide the right kind of environment, finances, and support for the dog before you make a decision to buy. Make sure you are in good health to work with the higher energy years of your dog’s life.

Finally, don't be in a hurry. It can be frustrating when you want a dog, but don't rush. Search diligently for a sound, healthy dog and don't feel compelled to buy from the first litter you see. Take your time. The wait is well worth it.

Once you find a good puppy, remember that great dogs are also made, not just born. That means it takes consistent work, patience, and praise on your part every day for up to two years to get the result you probably desire – a well-behaved companion or family dog.

You don’t want one of these . . .

Before we talk about what you do want, let’s spend a few minutes understanding what you don’t want and why.

41 Don’t get a pitiful looking puppy; if it doesn’t work out, it won’t be any cuter a year from now and you will have ruined its chances of a good home.

Don’t get a bold, dominant puppy; it will be difficult to train, it will become bossy and assertive, and it may become a biter or growler.

Don’t get a shy puppy; it will become so timid it will not make friends or want to go outside and it may end up being hard to housebreak or leave alone while you shop or go to work.

Don’t get a puppy who runs around like a maniac constantly; he will have a short attention span and be hard to train; he may get into things if you leave him or he may become a digger or chewer out of boredom.

Expect Questions

Whether you get your puppy from a breeder, a family, or a shelter you should expect questions – very personal questions. They should ask you a bit about yourself and your habits and expectations. This helps them assess whether the breed is right for you and which puppy in the litter will best fit your lifestyle.

Many times these questions are written and you need to answer in writing. There will also be discussion to clarify answers and better assess your personality.

“Test” Your Possible Puppy

When you go to look at your puppy, the person selling the puppy (or the shelter) should be able to let you have an area to play with and “test” one or more puppies. Remember puppies need to pee often, so give him opportunities and don’t distract him if he is sniffing like he needs to potty. There are several things you should do with the puppy or puppies you are considering.

Does the puppy react well in a new environment?

Take him to this new area. Put him on the ground/floor. How soon does he start to explore? Does he run around like crazy? If he seems quiet at first and then starts sniffing and looking around but not running around crazily, he will be flexible and adjust to a new home.

Try to interest him in a ball or squeak toy. Does he take the toy? Does he go after it if it is thrown? Does he ignore the toy? Does he bring it back? Does he release it? Does he growl? Does he want to play tug-of-war? Dos he run around crazy with the toy? If he seems relaxed enough to pay attention to you and, even start to play, in a few minutes, he is a definite candidate.

However, if he never moves or runs right to you and stays there or climbs on you or growls at you, this is not the one. He may not know how to play with toys yet, so don’t be too critical of how he does it.

42 Simply observe his responses. You don’t want him to be too possessive of his toys, especially if you have children. You do want him to be interested in playing with toys.

Does the puppy respond?

Get down on the puppy’s level and try to get his attention by calling, clicking your fingers or tongue, whistling, or clapping. Does he come? If not, try offering him a small treat. Does he even look at you?

A puppy whose attention you cannot get is going to be hard to train. If he comes to you, pet him and praise him. If you used a treat to get his attention, give it to him. Go to another spot and try again. Then repeat. If he comes more readily each time, he will be easy to train. Look at his tail. It should be untucked – maybe even wagging.

The more responsive he is, the better. However, if he runs right over and starts nipping at you, beware that he could be a bit aggressive for you.

Does the puppy accept and show affection?

When you were doing the calling in #2 above, did he like it when you petted him and praised him? Did he stay around for it or leave? Did he nip at you or start roughhousing or rolling?

What you want is for him to want to be petted and praised, to stay with you for several seconds while you do it. Ideally he will lick your hand, offer himself to you, roll over (submissively), lean on you, or act like he wants to be picked up or fondled. A dog that is so submissive he urinates when you pet him is probably too submissive.

Does the puppy follow you?

If you stand up and walk around after #2 and #3, see if the puppy follows you to get more attention. If not, call to him and pat your leg. He may get sidetracked or stop to sniff or piddle, but he should “remember” and come to you again when you call to him and “remind” him.

Does the puppy desire to and have the ability to learn?

This will take a little patience on your part. With the puppy following you, stop and look down at the puppy. Get his attention at the same time so that he stops suddenly and looks up. You may want to jiggle your keys or squeak a toy as you stop. Now say “Sit” and gently lift his chin up with one hand and touch (gentle pressure) his rear.

Most puppies are off-balance at this point and will sit without realizing it. If he sits, praise him and pet him. Do this 2-3 more times. Is he concentrating and trying to do what you ask? If, by the fourth or fifth time, he acts like he will sit or starts to sit without your touching him, he is very willing to learn and able to be trained and will be a fun pet.

Does this puppy’s activity level coordinate with the activity level of my family (or me)?

Be realistic when you think about the activity level you want him to have and the activity level of you and your family. If you work all day and come home exhausted, you really do

43 not want or need a high energy dog; however, if you have several active youngsters and you all love hiking or jogging, a low to medium activity dog will not be able to keep up with the family.

How can you truly assess a puppy’s activity level?

Low: walks, sometimes sits, doesn’t always have to be moving

Medium: frisky, moves around, trots, sometimes pounces, wiggles and runs

High: runs constantly, pounces, wiggles, and is always busy

Does the puppy have a suitable level of dominance (aggression)?

A highly dominant dog will not easily accept your control. However, on the other end of the scale, a highly submissive dog may be too afraid to do what you ask. How can you assess this?

Low: never nips or mouths, avoids eye contact

Medium: mouths gently, may be frisky and active, makes direct eye contact but doesn’t stare

High: nips, bites, jumps on you, barks, makes direct eye contact and even stares you down, may growl, tries to take control, may act wildly

How does he respond to handling and grooming?

Sit quietly and invite the puppy to you. Use a gentle voice and talk to him. Pick him up and put him in your lap and begin to stroke him as you talk. See how he responds to stroking his head, ears, back, tail, and paws. Will he let you wipe his paws on a towel? Will he let you brush him gently?

A puppy who nips, bites or growls with these actions is not going to be good around children.

Read the tests for choosing an adult dog in the next chapter, as some of those tests may also be helpful to you, especially if the puppy you are testing is older than three months.

Ask Questions

Ask a few questions about the puppy:

Has he had bouts of diarrhea?

Did he nurse well? You may also want to determine if he was the largest or smallest of his litter. If he was the largest and pushed others out of his way to get his meal, he will be aggressive; however, if he was the runt (smallest) and let everyone else tell him what to do, he will be quite submissive.

44 What did his mother do to help socialize him? The owner should be able to tell you how the mother moved the puppies around so all got their fair share of milk, how she played with them but told them not to bite so hard, etc.

Meet The Parents Of The Puppy

Ask to meet both the parents of the puppy if they are on site. Your puppy’s temperament, trainability, and other traits and physical characteristics will be very similar to one or both parents.

Do you like what you see? Is one of them scared of strangers (you are the stranger) – shy, growl, curling lip, hair on back stands up? Are they both friendly when given permission by the owner? Do they appear to be well behaved – sit when told, leave you alone when told, etc.? What does the owner say about them? Is she making excuses for their behavior or attitude? (Not a good sign).

45 CHAPTER 6 – CHOOSING THE BEST ADULT DOG

The prospective adult dog adopter's best friend is a reputable breeder, foster ‘parent’ or shelter worker. This person has been around the dog for several weeks. He or she will know if the dog is vocal, if it is overly active, if it is mischievous, or if it is submissive.

It's unlikely an inexperienced dog buyer can make the determination of which dog to purchase in a 30-minute visit to the kennel. Once you have found a reputable breeder you like (or a shelter), let someone who has been working with the puppies help you choose the right dog for your situation.

When you go to see dogs, take some things with you: some small treats, a tennis ball, a squeak toy, a brush, a small towel.

Consider Only A Healthy Choice

How can you be sure the dog you buy is healthy? A visual inspection can reveal a lot. Generally, a healthy dog should:

Be a proper weight (not too chubby or too thin);

Be clean and odor-free, and kept in clean surroundings;

Have clear eyes, not runny or red;

Have a nose that is not running or crusty;

Have white teeth;

Have clean ears;

Have a full, healthy hair coat; the coat may be wooly and not shiny, but there should not be bald patches and it should not be thin or greasy or dry;

Not scratch excessively;

Be able to move without lameness or limping; and

Appear well socialized, playful and friendly.

Most purebred dogs today are susceptible to a variety of heritable diseases, which cannot be pinpointed by a quick once-over.

Hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia and retinal deformities are the most common conditions found in large dog breeds; cardiac disorders and epilepsy also affect many breeds. Learn what heritable diseases are common to the breed you want and learn the questions to ask.

46 Prospective owners should deal only with breeders who routinely screen for diseases and conditions that affect the breed. Ask for the breeding parents Orthopedic Foundation for Animals (OFA) orthopedic and other breed specific test results and also the Canine Eye Registry (CERF) recent ophthalmologists report for eye disorders.

This is the best assurance - though it's no guarantee - of taking home a dog that's free of these conditions. You should also ask to see the dog's health record. And, after you buy a dog, take it to your veterinarian right away for a complete exam.

Don’t get the first one you see!

Having a dog requires commitment. It's like bringing an infant into your home. You're making a long-term commitment (which could be 12+ years). Check out various breeders – or more than one shelter. It doesn't have to be the first dog you see. Make sure it's one that's going to fit your situation.

Ask yourself if you're ready to own a dog. Make sure that your life is stable, and that you're going to be able to provide the right kind of environment, finances, and support for the dog before you make a decision to buy. Make sure you are in good health to work with the higher energy years of your dog’s life.

Finally, don't be in a hurry. It can be frustrating when you want a dog, but don't rush. Search diligently for a sound, healthy dog and don't feel compelled to buy this week. Take your time. The wait is well worth it.

Once you find a good dog, remember that great dogs are also made, not just born. That means it takes consistent work, patience, and praise on your part every day for up to two years to get the result you probably desire – a well-behaved companion or family dog.

You don’t want one of these . . .

Before we talk about what you do want, let’s spend a few minutes understanding what you don’t want and why.

Don’t get a pitiful looking dog; if it doesn’t work out, it won’t be any cuter a year from now and you may have ruined its chances of a good home.

Don’t get a bold, dominant dog; it will be difficult to train, it will become bossy and assertive, and it may become a biter or growler.

Don’t get a very submissive or shy dog; it will become so timid it will not make friends or want to go outside and it may end up being hard to housebreak or leave alone while you shop or go to work.

Don’t get a dog who runs around like a maniac constantly; he will have a short attention span and be hard to train; he may get into things if you leave him or he may become a digger or chewer out of boredom.

47 Expect Questions

Whether you get your dog from a breeder, a family, or a shelter you should expect questions – very personal questions. They should ask you a bit about yourself and your habits and expectations. This helps them assess whether the dog is right for you and which dog will best fit your lifestyle. Many times these questions are written and you need to answer in writing. There will also be discussion to clarify answers and better assess your personality.

Ask Questions

Ask as much as you can about the dog’s background. Find out how long he has been at the shelter or in foster care. Ask what they have done to work with the dog – walks, play times, socialization, etc. Ask if he has been around children. Find out, if you can, why he was given up or brought back.

If you are uncomfortable asking these kinds of questions, start with,

“What can you tell me about this dog?” and proceed to “What do you know of his history around children?”

“Has he been here very long?” which may need the follow-up question of “How long has he been here?”

Then follow up with “Was he brought in by his original owners?” This should give you an opening to find out why he is available. If they could not housetrain him or he bit someone, you do not want him.

Ask “do you have an opportunity to walk him every day?” (this is opposed to just letting him out in a run) This will tell you if they have tried to train him.

“What kind of games have you played with him?” is a good question to help learn about their attempt to socialize him.

“Have you had any problems with him while he has been here?” If they say “no” then ask “Has he chewed anything?” and “Does he bark a lot?”

“Test” Your Prospective Dog

If you have more than one dog (like at a shelter) from which to choose, approach each dog in exactly the same way and perform the same tests so you will be able to compare their responses. After doing this with several dogs, you will begin to see the differences among their reactions. Be patient and observant.

Realize that every behavior has a motivation behind it – even a forward or backward step.

These first tests are most effective if carried out in a place where the dog’s crate is kept and the dog is in the crate. It is best if there is no distraction and the dog is not looking forward to dinner or a walk.

48 Throughout this part you will see how active or lazy the dog is. If he is constantly leaping up and down or pacing, he likes to be kept busy and active. If he simply lays or comes near the door and plops down, he may be quite content to just lie around the house.

Also watch his reaction to any dogs that are barking or walking around the area. If he is more interested in the other dogs than in you, he may be difficult to orient to human interaction.

How does the dog react to strangers?

In this case, you are a stranger to the dog so it is a good time to test how he reacts to strangers. Crouch down next to his crate with your body sideways and your eyes averted or looking down. If he readily comes forward to meet you with his tail wagging, he is friendly toward strangers.

If he comes forward slightly but looks shy and hesitant, he will probably be a decent watch dog. If you have lots of children or teens coming and going, that would not be desirable, but if you want a dog to warn you of unknown people approaching the door, this could be the one.

A dog that demands attention by barking or pawing at the wire is going to need re- training. Once you have seen his reaction to this, turn to face him (without getting up) and talk to him in a friendly way and note his reaction.

How does the dog react to body contact?

If it is safe, put your fingers up to but not through the bars (or door). Dogs that enjoy being stroked will press their bodies against the door sideways to get you to stroke them.

Small dogs that are used to being picked up and cuddled will often bounce up and down excitedly. Aloof dogs will keep their distance. If he is not used to getting body contact, he will keep his distance or act confused.

Dogs that have been abused may seem shy and will need time to warm up to you.

Is the dog hand-shy?

At this point, raise your hand suddenly above the dog’s eye level. A dog that has never been mistreated will continue to act friendly, but one that has been hit or mistreated will cower or blink or move away or react with aggression by growling or barring his teeth.

If he shows aggression, he will not be safe around children. If you are unsure of his reaction, repeat the gesture again a little later to see his reaction.

What is his level of sociability?

Remove your hands and simply make eye contact with the dog. A dog that is well socialized and used to being around humans will understand that a human’s stare is not aggressive. If he stares back in a friendly way with his tail wagging, he will get along okay with most people.

49 Dogs that are less well socialized will look away. If he is uneasy by your staring, he will quickly become interested in something else – scratching, looking around, yawning, and getting a toy.

If prolonged staring causes him to raise his paw, lick his lips, or lie down, he is showing submission and will not be aggressive in unknown situations which makes him a good candidate for being with children.

Some dogs like Dobermans and Rottweilers will stare back and weigh your next move with an attitude of ‘holding their ground.’ These dogs can be trained to be good guard dogs, but they may pose a threat with young children.

Is he trainable?

Offer the dog a treat. If he takes it, the test will work. Offer him another one but don’t let him have it until he asks by barking, pawing the door, or some other method. Once he has “asked” for it, let him have it.

Then offer another one and see if he displays the same asking behavior or comes up with something new. After 3-4 more tidbits you will see if he is creative in asking or if he just sits and looks pitiful or if he loses interest.

A trainable dog will stay interested and engaged with you, but a higher intelligence dog will invent ways to ask for the treat.

The next tests will help you narrow your choices. When you take an unfamiliar dog out of a crate or kennel, remember you are still a stranger to him. Be very aware of his showing fear or anxiety by hesitating or refusing to do what you ask, curling his lip or growling, or lunging or barking.

What traits can I observe?

Whether you or a shelter worker or a breeder take the dog out of his crate or kennel, observe how easy it is to get him to accept his collar and leash, how excited he gets, how he reacts to the person handling him, and how he reacts to you (the stranger).

If he is too wild to easily get his collar and leash on, he will be a fairly high energy dog with a short attention span so make sure you are up to long play times and lots of patience in training. Does he pull and tug on the leash? Does he go through doors easily? You don’t want him to pull you down and cause you to get hurt.

How does he behave around other dogs?

If you have to walk him past other dogs on the way out of the building, watch and see if he wants to stop and sniff them or if he acts threateningly towards them or if he ignores them. If another dog barks at him, does he bark back or does he try to hide behind you? Does he have his head up and act interested in all the dogs or act proud to be ‘chosen’ or does he put his head down and try to hurry past the others?

50 Whatever he does here will be how he behaves when he is threatened. If you can, take him for a walk. Remember that dogs lunge in two different ways – one is aggression with the hair on his spine up and his feet planted and the other is ‘play with me’ mode with his front end lower than his rear like a bow and his tail wagging. You will be able to tell the difference in his bark as well.

If he interacts with other dogs while out, see if you can distract him with a treat or by calling to him. You will be able to tell how easy it will be to get him to come to you later if he is out barking at other dogs going for a walk or if you are at a park.

Does he play with toys?

Dogs that have not been around people and played with will not know how to play and may even be afraid of toys. While they may make a great family dog eventually, you will have to spend a great deal of time socializing and training and loving them to get to that point.

Take him to an enclosed area where he can be let off his leash. Let him sniff until he comes over to you. Part of the test is to see how long it takes for him to give you his attention.

Produce a toy and see if he wants it by teasing him with it. Show some excitement and say “want it? Want it? I’ve got a toy for you! Do you want it?” Toss the toy and see if he goes after it. Does he bring it back? Does he give it to you and then wait expectantly for you to throw it again? Is he obsessive with the toy (refusing to let go or running around with it)?

If he brings it back and waits for you to throw it again … and again … and again, he may really like fetch and bring games and you may have to think about how many hours a day you want to play this game.

If you try to take the toy away and he growls or goes rigid, do not continue to try to take it. If he holds on and tries to play tug-of-war with the toy, he has a strong character.

Does he play gently or roughly? If you have children with you, is he careful with them so he does not bite them accidentally. If you have a squeak toy, does he attack it? Does he try to tear it up? Or is he afraid of it?

Will he be difficult or easy to handle and groom?

After your play session, sit on the ground with him and invite him to come and sit by you. Talk soothingly to him to calm him. Start stroking him gently. Try to run your hands all over his body – down his back, down his tail, over his legs and paws, over his head, around his ears, under his chin.

Observe his face throughout this time and if he shows signs of uneasiness – shows whites of eyes, curls lip, growls, jumps up – quit and do something else for a few minutes. Then try again. Try to brush him gently to see his reaction. Try to wipe his feet one at a time on a small towel. If he is shy of handling and grooming, he is not a good candidate for a family with children.

51 Is he responsive?

When walking with the dog on his leash, stop and say “sit” and see if he responds. If he does not know what that means, push down on his rump gently and repeat the command “sit”.

Be very observant, as he may not like you pushing on him so he may turn and snap at you suddenly. If he does not sit, pull up on his leash or offer him a treat above and just behind his nose so that he is off-balance and has to sit to get it. Once he sits, praise him.

Then say “heel” and start walking. Again stop and say “sit” and make him do it. Repeat this sequence several times. If he balks, snaps repeatedly, pulls, or growls, you do not want this dog. If he seems confused but acts like he wants to please you, he is a candidate.

If he is only interested in the treat, he may be hard to train. If he learns to heel and sit in this short time, you have a ‘keeper.’ Training will be fun and easy.

How does he do with children?

Even if you don’t have children in your home all the time, most people have children in the neighborhood or have children or grandchildren who come to visit. This may be very important if the dog will live with children and only somewhat important if children only visit once in a while.

Ask whoever is keeping the dog about his background with children. The most important part of this test is to take the children with you to visit the dog. Do all the tests with the children present. Watch especially how the dog responds to the children doing tests # 2, 3, 8, and 9.

Any negative reaction on his part disqualifies him as a candidate!

52 CHAPTER 7 – BEFORE YOU TAKE YOUR DOG HOME Make Your Home Environment Dog-Safe

Even if you will not initially allow your new dog in every room of your house, you need to do a room-by-room search and make your entire house safe for your dog. You never know when someone will accidentally leave a door or gate open or a child will carry the puppy to his or her bedroom.

Some things are dangerous for dogs (possibly even fatal, especially for puppies and small dogs) that you might not think are a hazard. Puppies are very curious about everything and tend to mouth or chew lots of things.

Fence your yard! Depending on the dog you are getting, you may be able to use invisible fencing. But many dogs need more secure fencing like 4-ft or 6-ft chain- link fencing.

Before you bring your dog home, check your fencing for any holes or hollowed out areas underneath. Make sure the space between the gabe and the fence post is not large enough for your dog to slip through. Check your fencing at least once a week during your dog’s first few weeks at home.

Fasten all electrical cords to baseboards or floor so that the dog cannot pick them up to chew. Electrical burns can be serious. Electrocution is fatal.

Keep all medications, cleaning agents and similar materials out of open areas – lock them up, put them behind closed and latched doors. A dog can chew through a container or chew a lid off of a container.

Never use pesticides, roach and rodent sprays or poisons, or any type of rodent trap in an area that is accessible to your dog.

Always keep the toilet lid down and never use a continuous bowl cleaner. Dogs love to drink from toilets.

Never throw bones, especially chicken or turkey, in your garbage container in the house (or leave them on a counter). Put all bones in a trash can away from the dog’s access and latch the trash can.

Antifreeze will kill your dog. It smells sweet to dogs, so it attracts them; however, even a few drops will kill the average sized dog. Clean up spills of all fluids from automobiles immediately and keep containers of such secured away from the dog’s reach.

Check your house and yard for plants that might be toxic to your dog. Place house plants out of puppy’s reach. See the section on Dog First Aid Kit for toxic plants.

Weed killers and many other herbicides are toxic to dogs. Keep all lawn and garden chemicals secured and out of your dog’s reach.

53 Do not allow anyone to smoke and leave ash or butts where your dog can reach them. Your dog can get nicotine poisoning.

At Christmas, put decorations high enough your dog cannot reach them. He may be tempted to grab and mouth or chew them just because they are dangling or shiny. Broken glass and plastic will cut his mouth and esophagus. Tinsel can get caught in the dog’s throat. Poinsettias and Christmas cactus are toxic to dogs.

Chocolate is toxic to dogs so never give your dog any chocolate or leave chocolate chips or boxes of chocolates where your dog can get to them. Dogs seem to be drawn to chocolate and packaging will not keep them from eating the candy and the packaging.

Coins and marbles and pieces from board games are a temptation to dogs. If your dog sees you or your children doing something with them, he will come running through and grab them and swallow them before you know what happened.

Consult your veterinarian before using flea control products on your dog, especially if you have a puppy under 16 weeks old.

Check all windows and screens for any that are loose and would allow a dog or puppy to fall through.

Everything you do to dog proof your home will make it safer for your dog. It will also eliminate the possibility of having to correct your dog for things that are your fault. The more positive the environment, the better the chance of your dog becoming a successful family member.

Limit Your Dog’s Access

You need to think about some things before you have your new dog at home. These will have a bearing on how easy it is to housetrain your dog and how many accidents your dog may have in the next few weeks. At the very least, they will affect how much work you will have in cleaning up after your dog and how much sleep you will get.

Think about starting with the dog having ‘his own room.’ That room could be a mudroom, a kitchen, or a bathroom. Get a gate to put up in the doorway rather than closing the door. This will give him a place to feel safe and it will give you a smaller area to clean.

Are there rooms the dog will never be allowed in? Are there others you will not want the dog in until it is housetrained? How will you keep him out of those rooms? What about gates? How about an exercise pen?

It is best to limit the dog to rooms where the floor is easily cleaned (like a kitchen, bathroom or utility room with tile type of flooring) while it is awake for the first few days until you understand how accident-prone it is. Some people ban their dogs from a formal living room or an office where clients are entertained.

Where will the dog be sleeping? Options include a bathroom or utility room or some other room (‘his own room’) with the door or gate closed, in a family member’s bedroom, in the family/living room, or in the garage. Then there is the

54 question of whether he will be sleeping in a crate, on the floor, in his own bed, or on the bed you or a family member sleeps in.

Remember that if the dog is a puppy, he has only slept with his mother and siblings, so he is used to being surrounded by warm bodies and beating hearts. Therefore, he will be happier and sleep better if that situation is simulated by a soft bed and ticking alarm clock (if he isn’t sleeping with you or a family member).

Where will the dog be eating and drinking? He will be happier eating near the area where you either fix food or eat – preferably not the dining room, but perhaps at one end of the kitchen or in a utility room next to the kitchen.

Your life will be easier if his dishes are on a floor that is easy to clean. You might also consider having him eat in a room close to the door he will be using to go outdoors to potty. By the way, his dishes should be ceramic or stainless steel. Straight-sided dishes will be easier for him than bowl-shaped.

Where do you want your new dog to potty? The ideal place is outdoors, but some people like to train a dog to use newspapers or a litter box. You need to identify the EXACT 2-foot by 3-foot area (or 3-foot by 5-foot area if your dog will be a large dog when fully grown) that you want your dog to use as his POTTY PLACE. This will be referred to as his ‘potty place’.

What You Will Need To Purchase For Your Dog

You will want to purchase some items prior to actually bringing your dog home.

A slip collar – either nylon (good for starting esp. for puppies or thin-necked dogs) or chain link – measure the dog’s head at its largest point and add two inches to find the right length (the collar length is measured between the rings).

A 6-ft leash – either nylon or leather. You may also want a retractable leash.

A quick-release buckle collar a bit bigger than your dog’s neck. Some breeds prefer a harness: Chow Chow, Pomeranian.

A plastic tag to put on his buckle collar that has his name and your phone number engraved on it (available at many pet supply stores).

2 bowls – one for food, one for water – stainless steel or ceramic with straight sides – not overly tall, especially for a puppy. If you have a tall breed or one that is prone to bloat, you will need to put the dishes on a stool or low table or get dishes that come in a raised stand.

Crate – see below for choosing a crate.

Toys – Appropriately sized Nylabone® and Kong® toys, tennis-type ball, 2-3 soft stuffed toys (no button-type eyes, no sewn-on or buttoned on or tied on parts), 2- 3 squeak toys (soft rubber or fabric for small dogs and puppies, harder rubber or stronger fabric for larger dogs). Some dogs will like an appropriately sized rope toy to chew or carry.

55 Bed – appropriate sized if you desire to use one. In many cases a pad and/or an old blanket works fine to get started.

Nail clipper.

Brush or comb – see below for information on how to get the right one.

Gates to limit your dog’s access out of or into various rooms

Choosing A Crate

There are several types of crates – wire, plastic, nylon fabric, and combination. Some are collapsible and some simply come apart in two pieces. Which type of crate you choose will depend on your preference, how you will be using it, and your dog’s temperament.

If you want your dog to sleep most of the time he is in the crate, choose one that is all plastic as they tend to be darker and not allow him to see very much except through the door at the end.

If your dog is a real people-lover like a Golden Retriever, choose one that is all metal with all the sides being wire and place the crate where he can see people coming and going. If you have a small breed dog you will be taking in a crate often, you may prefer a nylon crate with “window shades” that roll up like tent flaps.

If you will be carrying the crate often, choose one that is lighter in weight. Plastic crates are always lightweight, but take more room to store. Metal and wire crates come in various weights with heavier ones being sturdier. The lower the number of wire gage, the thicker and stronger the wire, and the heavier the crate.

However, they usually fold fairly flat to store or transport and have a handle to be carried like a suitcase. Make sure that the person who will be transporting the crate can lift and carry it and load it into and unload it from the vehicle that will be transporting it.

What size crate should you buy?

Buy one that will be large enough for your dog to stand up and turn around when he is fully grown. You can get a divider to put into it to make it smaller (especially applicable for wire crates) while he is smaller if you want to do that.

Where should you buy your crate?

Look around – shop at all the pet stores and mass merchandisers in your area. Set the appropriately sized crates on the floor of the store. Assemble them to see how easily they assemble and disassemble. Collapse them. Carry them. Price them. If you already have your dog, take your dog to the pet stores and see if there is one type he will go into or not go into easily.

56 Then go to the web sites listed at the end of this ebook and look at the crates. How do they compare to the ones you have seen? Just remember that if you purchase one online, you will pay postage based on weight.

You can usually find out how much by putting the item in your ‘shopping cart’ and going through the purchase process up to the point of putting in your payment information. At that point, it may not be cost effective to purchase the crate online unless you cannot find the same one in your local store.

What Kind Of Brush Or Comb Will You Need?

You may need more than one brush or a brush and a comb. Dogs do not have the same type of hair on all parts of their bodies. The hair on their paws is different from that on their faces, which is different from that on their backs. It is fine to wait until you have your dog to decide what grooming tools you will need. You may need to take your dog with you to a pet store or to see a groomer to get some advice.

A natural bristle brush is always a good starting choice for all coat types. Often they will say ‘for short coats’ or ‘for long coats’ on the packaging. There are various sizes and shapes, which come in soft, medium, or stiff bristles.

A pin brush is used to groom long-coated dogs of both small and large breeds such as Cocker Spaniels, Borzois, Afghan Hounds, and Shetland Sheepdogs. A pin brush has long or short stainless-steel or chrome-plated pins with rounded ends that are set in a soft rubber base to remain highly flexible.

The pins come in short, medium, and long lengths and are selected on the basis of the length of a dog’s coat. Sometimes you can find a combination bristle-on-one-side-pins- on-the-other brush.

A slicker brush is rectangular in shape, with a wooden handle and short, bent- wire teeth placed closely together. It is available in small, medium and large sizes and is best for dogs with medium-length coats. Its purpose is to untangle mats and remove dead hair.

A rubber brush is made of one molded piece of rubber, including the rubber teeth, used for grooming and polishing short-coated and smooth-coated breeds. The rubber brush can also be used for shampooing and massaging the skin without scratching or irritating sensitive dogs, but is of no value in grooming long- or medium-coated breeds.

57 Dog combs of stainless steel and high-quality aluminum are best. A half-medium, half-fine toothed comb is useful for most breeds and coat types. The fine teeth work well on soft or silky hair. The medium teeth are useful for coats of medium or average length and texture.

A rake or matting comb undoes twisted or matted fur of very heavy-coated breeds such as the Old English sheepdog or the Newfoundland. It comes in several sizes.

Although it is called a flea comb, it is usually used to comb out very fine facial and leg hair, especially on silky-coated breeds. It may or may not have a handle.

A stripping comb (or stripping knife) is used for the stripping technique used on most terrier breeds, schnauzers, and various other thick-coated, short-haired breeds. It removes some of the dense undercoat and dead hair. It is used on many breeds when they shed their winter coats in the spring.

If you are unsure of what type of brush or comb you will need, wait until you get your dog and then make an appointment to talk with a groomer about coat care.

A groomer can advise you on what to get (and show you what he/she uses) and show you how to use it correctly.

The groomer can also advise you on bathing and toenail clipping and help you decide if you will need his/her services or you can do your dog’s grooming yourself.

Travel Items For Your Dog

Travel Items you will need to have before getting your dog:

An old bath towel – You can put this on the car seat for the dog to sit on and use it to clean up any accidents.

A nylon slip collar or choke chain large enough to go over the dog’s head and a six-foot leash (leather or nylon) or a retractable leash –

Nylon slip collars are safe and not overly harsh for all sizes of dogs and puppies.

A travel dog bowl and a bottle of water will be helpful if you are traveling more than two hours. A travel water bowl can be a folded, nylon bowl which is available in pet stores, a plastic bowl, or a metal bowl. If you travel a lot, a metal bowl that is skid-proof is best.

58 If you will be traveling overnight – or at a meal time for your dog - with your new (or new-to-you) dog, you will need a second dish for food and you will need to purchase whatever food your dog has been eating so that you can feed your dog.

This should be a metal, skid-proof bowl. The food should be kept in a zippered plastic bag, which is then put into a lidded metal can to protect it from moisture, bugs, and other animals.

Plastic bags for picking up and disposing of poop. These can be special bags you purchase at a pet store (some even come with a small canister to attach to the leash) or they can simply be plastic bags used for your purchases at a grocery store or retail marketer. Keep plenty of bags in your car.

Crate

Toys – chews, balls, a favorite toy

Blanket

Preparing Your Family For Your Dog Or Puppy

Teach your children (and their friends) that a dog or puppy is a living being to be treated with kindness and respect. A dog is not a toy but a friend and companion. Dogs are not to be sat upon, hit, or dragged around. Show the children how to be gentle whether they are petting the dog or carrying it.

If you have children under three years old, you may want to wait a couple of years to get a dog, especially a puppy. You already have lots of work and a dog will be lots more work. Plus it is fairly hard to help a child under three learn to understand how to work with the dog. Visit friends with gentle dogs and get your child used to being around dogs before making a decision.

Large gentle dogs like Golden Retrievers and Collies do well with young children, but are very energetic as puppies and can easily knock the child down accidentally.

Never leave young children alone with the dog or puppy. A playful nip or a scrape by a paw can be painful and scary to a young child. And it only takes a moment for a child to pick up and drop a small dog, injuring it for life.

Older children can be shown – taught – to hold a small dog with a firm grip under the chest and stomach so the dog cannot wiggle and fall. They should only carry the dog when you are supervising.

Children need to be taught to respect the dog’s needs. They need to allow him to take his naps and eat and drink without disturbance and competition. Dog bites tend to happen because the dog is awakened suddenly or his food is taken (or someone acts like they will take it) or a sudden movement scares the dog.

Help your children understand that dogs that do not know them will not instantly accept them and be friendly. If they want to talk to or pet a new (strange) dog, they need to ask the owner’s permission.

59 Then they need to approach with the back of their hand extended for the dog to sniff. Once the dog accepts them, they need to present the same hand with the palm up. After that it is sometimes less frightening for the dog to be stroked along his side rather than patted on the top of his head.

Do not expect your child to automatically be the primary caretaker of the dog – even if he or she is begging for a dog. The child will best learn responsibility if you work together with him, showing him how to do various tasks, then supervising, then reminding. You will still need to help with bathing and grooming, with feeding if the child is gone (to a school or sports event or a friend’s house), and making sure the dog potties at appropriate times.

Housetraining is usually an adult responsibility. If your child is 10 years or older, look for a 4-H program from your County Extension Service that offers dog training as one of the projects. It is one of the best things you will ever do for your child or your dog! To help you find a club near you, try www.4husa.org or www.4husa.org/modules.php?op=modload&name=Sections&file=index&req=viewarticle &artid=34

Everyone in the household has to have the same attitude and approach to the dog. The rules and the corrections have to be consistent. If there are family members who are not present all the time, they too must understand the rules and corrections and help enforce them whenever they are around the dog.

One person needs to ‘take charge’ of the dog and be responsible for making sure the dog gets the training he needs, gets his meals, is fully housetrained, etc. He does not have to do it all, but he has to make sure it is done correctly and consistently.

Remember that housetraining and basic training of a dog take considerable time for the first 6-8 months you own the dog – make sure someone in the family is able and willing to make that time commitment.

How To Be Your Dog’s Pack Leader (Alpha)

Everyone in the family needs to be alpha (pack leader) over the dog. Remember, the dog has an inherent trait that makes him a social animal, needing a dominance subordination hierarchy. In the wild, within the pack, everything in the dog’s life comes after the pack leader has had what he wants and has given permission for the others to touch or eat.

Dogs are happy in this arrangement because they understand it. They are secure in knowing their leader is strong and in charge and can keep others in their proper place. You must establish that you are the leader of his pack before you will be successful with any type of training. One way to do this is called "social ".

A dog will feel more secure and learn better if this relationship is established. It is important that the dog sees all people in the family as leaders and itself as the follower. That is another reason consistent training is important.

60 Consistent training not only involves the dominant master, but all others in the family. The dog should be handled the same way by all. Everyone associated with the dog each time a command is given should use the same words and everyone should use the same reward or consequence every time the dog does not behave as desired.

Failure to establish this hierarchy will result in the dog having a middle rank with some family members equal to or below him in rank. Therefore, those family members will not be able to control the dog.

Social reinforcement is established by not only petting and talking to your Dog through social interaction, but also by being consistent in your actions toward him. You must be definite, committed, confident, fair, firm and consistent when you interact with him.

Different breeds respond differently to certain actions. What one breed will see as a move toward him in approval another breed may see as a move of aggression or disapproval. The first one will see it as positive reinforcement while the second will see it as negative reinforcement. Therefore, understanding your dog’s breed is very important.

Every interaction you have (or any person has) with your dog is reinforcement – either positive or negative. If your dog gets a treat or toy or walk or praise and a pat, you are giving positive reinforcement.

Positive reinforcement encourages your dog to do that behavior again. If you punish your dog, ignore him, take something away, or refuse something, then you are giving negative reinforcement – he does not want that response so he will probably not do that again.

These five key rules will help you establish that you are the leader in your dog's life. Remember, all members of your family need to participate to make this successful.

Never let your dog lead

You and your family lead. Your Dog must always follow. For example, do not reward your dog’s begging at the table with a bite. When out for a walk, instead of letting your dog pull you, learn how to make your dog walk next to you at a “heel” position so that you are in control.

Do not compromise with your dog.

For example, if you want him to perform a desired behavior, don't just give up and walk away when he does not perform. Instead, use some type of reinforcement to show the dog his behavior was not correct, such as withholding the treat or toy.

If he comes when called but does not sit or does not sit straight right in front of you, correct him firmly and wait a few seconds before praising him. Never say “well, at least he came, so I will praise him for that” and let it slip that he did not sit in the way he was taught.

You and your family should always initiate interaction with your Dog and terminate it.

If you are in a conversation with another family member or friend and your dog comes and nuzzles you for attention, simply make your dog lie down and ignore him until you

61 are done with your conversation and ready to pay attention to your dog. Then tell your dog to come over and reward him with attention.

Avoid tending to your dog’s every desire.

The handler that gives a dog an extra treat, just because he's cute, is actually confusing the dog by allowing it to lead the handler. Reward should only be given for desired behavior, and should never be given just because.

If your dog fusses while in the crate and you let him out or do something else because you feel sorry for him or think it will quiet him, you are rewarding him for fussing, so he will do it again – even quicker after being put into the crate the next time. It is then your fault for his never being crate-trained.

When spending time with your Dog, pet, talk and touch it often to help establish trust.

This will help establish the trust needed to truly set you forth as the leader. For example, when you are obedience training your dog, each time he does the right thing, praise him and rub him (on top of his head or along his side for small to medium breeds but under the chin for large breeds).

This type of touch and praise encourages the dog to look at you and listen to you. If your dog is heeling by your side, every few steps make sure you say things like “what a good girl, Tippy” or “nice job, Tippy.” In this case, use the dog’s name at the end of what you say.

62 CHAPTER 8 – BRINGING YOUR DOG HOME

Preparing To Bring Your Dog Home

If you haven’t picked up your new friend yet, there are some things you’ll want to take with you:

An old bath towel – You can put this on the car seat for the dog to sit on and use it to clean up any accidents.

A nylon slip collar large enough to go over the dog’s head and a six foot leash (leather or nylon) or a retractable leash – You need some way to control your dog and keep it close to you when it needs to go potty or when it is walking to the car.

If you will be traveling more than two hours to get home, a dog bowl and a bottle of water will be helpful. If you will be traveling overnight with your new (or new-to- you) dog, you will need a second dish and you will need to plan to purchase whatever food your dog has been eating so that you can feed your dog.

You will need to stop every two hours and get your dog out of the car on his leash attached to the slip collar and walk him around in the grass at a rest stop or park or office park. He will need to stretch his legs and he may need to potty fairly often. This should prevent, or at least limit, accidents in the car.

It will be best if you teach him to sit on the seat on the old towel rather than in your lap. If you have a bench seat, he can have his towel next to you. That way, if you need to take him to the veterinarian alone, he will not feel he has to sit in your lap. He will know from the beginning that he can sit by himself and feel safe and secure.

If he is lonely or whimpering, you can put your hand on him. That will help him feel more like he is with his siblings. Remember they would not pat him; they would just lie on or next to him.

Coming Home

Before you take the dog to your car, put the slip collar and leash on it and walk it around in a grassy area so it has a chance to potty. You might even start using his name and a cue word to mean “now is the time to go potty” such as ‘business’, ‘potty,’ ‘hurry up,’ etc.

There is no generally accepted word for this, so as long as you use a word that does not mean something else later in your dog’s training, any word you use will work. Simply say the word firmly and let the dog find the right spot by sniffing. If the dog does not do anything right away, move a few feet and repeat the word. If the dog does not urinate or defecate in a few minutes, assume he does not need to do anything right then.

63 When you get home with your dog, get him out of the car – on a leash – and walk him around the yard. Let him sniff. Let him wet as often as he wants as he is marking his territory. However, if he marks flowers or bushes or wanders into areas where you do not want him, jerk him back sharply about 6-8 inches and say “no” in a firm voice.

Do not let the dog step out of the boundaries of the yard. When he gets to the boundaries, jerk him back and say “no, boundary.”

Start using a cue word or phrase to mean ‘go potty.’ When he does it, praise him.

After about 15 minutes, take him into the house, saying to him, “Let’s go into the house” in a very happy voice. This will set the stage for his coming into the house any time you say “house” to him.

This is the routine you will use with your dog every couple of hours during the day – every day for the first 7-10 days.

At least once a day, also walk him around the yard within a couple of feet of the boundaries and every time he starts to cross the boundary, say “no, boundary” and jerk him back. This sets the stage for his not leaving the yard. With many breeds this is all that will be needed, but there are breeds that this will not affect.

During the first month, DO NOT:

1. Let the dog out of the house by himself. 2. Take the dog outside of a fence without a slip collar and leash on him.

The first night at home

The first night you will need to take your dog out for one “last” walk just before you go to bed. Establish him in his sleeping spot and set your alarm for no more than five hours. If your dog is a young puppy, four hours would be best.

When the alarm goes off, get up and take your dog for another walk and then put him back to bed. Do not play with him or talk to him about anything but pottying. Repeat the process in four more hours.

It may take a little while to get him settled down and back to sleep, but he will soon learn to go to sleep when put to bed and to go potty if he needs to when you walk him.

Establish a routine

The most important thing for your dog in learning anything you want him to learn is establishing a routine and being consistent in your expectations of your dog.

Whether your dog is a tiny 4-week-old puppy or a rescued dog that has been abused, a routine will help to put her at ease and know what to expect. Along with a routine, remember to be calm and patient. Everything is new to your dog. Shouting or screaming or exhibiting anger will only make your problems worse, so take a deep breath and ... start over.

When there are accidents, make the assumption that it is more your fault than your dog’s fault. If you watch your dog closely, you will be able to tell when she needs to go to her

64 potty place. She will show a posture of going potty or she will sniff or dig lightly or circle or run to the door and back to you. If you do not respond to those things by getting her to her potty place, then you will have an “accident” to clean up.

The easy way to look at the routine you need to establish is that any time there is a break during the day or a change of direction in your dog’s day, take the dog to his potty place.

The five keys to your success are:

When doggie gets up, take him to the potty place.

Feed doggie on a regular schedule which will eventually be twice a day, about 10-12 hours apart. After doggie eats or drinks anything, take him to the potty place.

After doggie plays or exercises, take him to the potty place.

Withhold water for two to four hours before doggie goes to bed.

Just prior to going to bed, take him to the potty place.

Naming Your Dog

If you get a dog from a shelter, he may come with a name. If you get a dog from a breed rescue, he will have a name and an official name. In both of these cases, you will probably want to continue to use the name he has. However, you may want to give him a nickname of your choosing.

If you get a puppy, his name is entirely up to you. Breeders will have some requirements about his name if he is registered with the AKC or UKC so his official name may need to include the name of the kennel or parts of his parents’ registered names. There is still room for you to be creative and give him his very own name – and the nickname you will call him.

As with naming children, dogs seem to live up to their names. Do not name your dog something negative like Rascal, Evil, Trouble, or Groucho. Other names to avoid include Outlaw, Bandit, Chopper, Fang, and Chewie. Dogs tend to live up to their names!

Find something fun or cute, something clever or endearing, something associated with his markings or his birthdate. For example, puppies born on Christmas or Christmas Eve are often named things associated with Christmas. One such dog was named Merry Mistletoe and then called Misti.

Think about how the name will sound when you say it. You want the name you use when you call your dog to go up in tone rather than down at the end. You also want it to be one or two syllables so you can say it quickly – even if his official name is seven words long. You want something that is positive and that sounds positive. Ask how you and your family will feel when you have to yell your dog’s name at a park.

65 There are web sites that list dog names by order of popularity. If you plan to take him to obedience classes, do not name him one of the top 25 names as it will be difficult for him to pay attention to you if he keeps hearing his name all over the room. (A couple of web sites of dog names are www.dog-names-and-more.com/ and www.geocities.com/dog_names/most_popular_dog_names.html)

Introducing Your Dog To The Family

Do not let children or adults crowd your dog when they meet him. Give him plenty of space and allow him to make up on his own.

Ask each person to extend a hand, fingers down, for the dog to sniff. Ask them not to try to pat the dog on the top of his head.

Do not introduce new people to him until he has had plenty of time to acclimate to the house and yard (at least a couple of hours).

Hold on to small children when they meet the dog so they don’t fall into the dog or get into his face and frighten him (he could react by biting or at least growling and scaring the child).

Young children should be taught to put treats on the floor for the dog while older children can hold their hand out, open with the palm up and fingers together, and the treat in their hand.

A dog that has not been hugged or cuddled in the past may not take kindly to it now, so test it out by gently stroking him and working up to cuddling and hugging slowly. If he is all right with it from you, then you can help the children to start out by stroking and working up to cuddling or hugging.

You should be present to supervise until you are sure of the dog’s response.

Introducing Your Dog To Other Dogs In The Family

When getting a second dog, do not let them introduce themselves at home. The original tenant will be threatened and protective of his turf. Even a normally calm and peaceful dog may attack the dog he sees as an intruder. It is best for them to meet on neutral ground like a park.

Both dogs will need to be on a leash and slip collar and each will need a person who is capable of handling that dog on the other end of the leash. Be sure to maintain a loose leash. A tight leash may threaten the dog and cause him to become aggressive. Allow the two dogs to approach each other and sniff noses and sniff rear ends. Use happy talk “Isn’t Tippy going to be a nice playmate for you, Rover?” Praise both dogs by name when they behave well.

66 If the dogs play bow and wag their tails, give them some freedom together but keep the leashes on so that you can grab them if you need to. If they don’t seem too friendly toward each other, proceed to #6. After 15 minutes, take the dogs for a walk together (one person on each leash). A nice long walk will help them get acquainted and somewhat tired so they will be less likely to compete when they go home. Repeat the play in the fenced yard. (you may need to leave the leashes on for safety). Before taking them into the house, pick up all toys they can both get to. Once they are inside, give each of them a new toy – and do not insist they play with the toy you gave them because they are likely to want the other one’s toy. As long as each has a toy, it does not matter who owns which toy. Do not allow them to be together without supervision until you are sure of their friendship. You will probably want to put the new dog in a crate or in ‘his room’ when you cannot directly supervise. Feed the dogs separately but at the same time. However, if your new dog is a puppy you will be feeding him more often. Therefore, you may want to also feed him in ‘his room’. As your dogs establish their hierarchy, the newly adopted dog may wait for the original dog to finish eating before he starts. Do not worry about it. He may also get snapped at or snarled at if he tries to “share” the original dog’s food. That, too, is to be expected.

If it is impossible to introduce them on neutral ground, bring the new dog home in a crate. Set the crate in the middle of a room that the original dog does not think of as ‘his room’ and let him sniff the crate for 15-20 minutes.

If he is acting like he wants to play with the new dog, put his leash and slip collar on him and take him into the yard. Then take the new dog out of the crate and put his slip collar and leash on him and take him into the yard to meet.

Again, each will need a person who is capable of handling that dog on the other end of the leash. Then follow the steps above.

Warning: If your dogs fight, DO NOT separate them with your bare hands. If they are wearing leashes, grab one and pull the dog away. Defuse the situation by throwing water or squirting water on the dogs or throw a blanket or coat over them. Using a shake-can will scare them into looking up long enough to give you a chance to grab a collar.

Introducing Your New Dog To Other Pets In The Family

Dogs and cats often coexist, and even become good friends, in the same household. However, there are many breeds, especially terriers, which will chase that same cat (until the cat drops of exhaustion or the dog catches and kills it in some instances).

The first few times the cat and dog meet will create the tone of their relationship. Start by shutting the cat away from the room(s) the dog will be allowed in when you bring the new dog home. Let the dog explore without meeting the cat. He will still be able to smell the cat’s presence.

67 After the dog has been there several hours and the excitement has died down, put your newly adopted dog on his leash and sit at one end of the room. Have someone else let the cat into a room adjacent to the room you and the dog are in and shut the doors so that the cat only has access to the room he is in and the room you are in if possible.

Keep the new dog lying down (or at least sitting) and encourage the cat to come into the room by calling and using treats as needed. Once the cat sees that the dog is constrained, he will feel safer and become braver.

If the cat is especially shy or the dog is barking, you will have to repeat this several times over a period of days before they get close enough to sniff each other. Some really shy cats will go behind the furniture and around the edges of the room to avoid the dog for weeks.

You will need to make the dog stop barking and keep the dog from chasing the cat during the first few weeks. You will also need to monitor each of their encounters until you are sure of how they react to each other.

During the first few weeks you may not want to let your cat out of the house as cats often run away and refuse to come back when a new animal or baby arrives at their home. Once he gets to know the dog, you can begin to let the cat outdoors again.

Dogs are predators and many breeds have great instincts for digging out and killing vermin – rabbits, ferrets, gerbils, rats, mice, etc. Most dogs instinctively kill snakes, reptiles and amphibians.

Therefore, if you have any of these pets, you will want to keep the pet in its cage at all times when the dog is in the house. If you will be taking the pet out of its cage, put your dog outside until your pet is safely back in its cage. Make sure the cage is in a place your dog cannot reach.

Dogs will jump up to see a baby chicken or duck as you hold it. They are expecting to mouth it to see what it is, but their teeth will kill it instantly. Do not take a chance on your dog accidentally killing a baby animal. Shut the dog out of the room while you handle the baby animal.

Some dogs (not terriers – see breed information) will become friends with a large rabbit or a ferret. Introduce them in the same way you would a cat to the dog. If the dog lunges at the rabbit or ferret, beware that the “kill” instinct is present. Do not trust them together.

Feeding Your Dog

Always feed your dog in the same place and at the same times each day. Do not overfeed your dog. Do not leave food out all of the time; measure the food using a measuring cup. If the dog does not eat the food within 20 minutes, pick it up and do not put it back down until the next feeding time. Do not give your dog table scraps.

Use straight-sided ceramic or stainless steel bowls for both food and water. Plastic harbors bacteria, which can either get into the dog’s food or water and cause illness or can infect his chin and cause a nasty infection of his chin.

68 If your dog is a tall breed (or large breed) or he tends to dribble water or have trouble breathing when he bends over, put his bowls on a stool or in a stand designed to elevate the bowls. Put a piece of vinyl flooring or vinyl tablecloth under his bowls to help protect your floor.

What should you feed your dog?

The easy answer to that is “whatever he has been eating.” Do not change his diet when you bring him home.

Ask the breeder or shelter worker exactly what he is eating, how much, and how often. They may give you a couple of days’ worth of food and write down what you should buy. Shelters often have small bags of food ready to go home with the dogs. Do not vary this diet; do not add to this diet.

When you take your dog for his various vaccinations, talk with the vet about your dog’s diet. He will probably have specific suggestions based on your dog’s breed.

In most cases a hard, kibbled food is best to feed your dog as it also helps to keep his teeth and gums healthy. Better brands like Science Diet, IAMS, and Eukanuba come in many formulations designed for specific types of dogs.

Low-cost foods often have a higher proportion of non-digestible filler ingredients and cause the dog to need to potty more frequently. You will also have to feed your dog more in order for your dog to get proper nutrition, so in the long run, you will still end up paying about the same price but creating a lot more work for yourself in housetraining.

It may also be missing critical ingredients needed for healthy joints and bones that will be found in higher priced foods.

There are a lot of dog foods available today. First learn to read the label. Just like people food, the label lists the ingredients in descending order by percentage. Therefore, the first 3-4 ingredients make up the bulk of the food content.

The first ingredient should be meat and should be listed by exactly what kind of meat. For example, it should say “chicken meal” rather than “poultry meal” or “lamb meal” and not “meat meal” as the terms poultry and meat can indicate it is any kind of bird or any kind of meat and may or may not have come from a controlled environment.

Therefore, it could have been diseased or treated with chemicals, which can definitely affect housetraining adversely. The meats should be simply the kind of meat or meal and not a by-product. By-products can cause diarrhea.

Look at the grains used in the food. Cheaper foods list the grains much higher in the list and usually have more of them. It takes a lot more grain to provide the nutritional needs of a dog than meat and vegetable products would take. This means that, while the bag

69 of food is cheaper, you will be feeding more of it each day, so you will be buying more of it.

Also, the more grain that is in the food (and the more of it that is fed), the more feces will be produced. That will be a problem for a dog that cannot go to his potty place throughout the day. His bowels may be very full and he may be unable to get to his potty place, causing “accidents” and a very upset dog.

Other problems with high-grain content foods are molds and mold spores which can cause many health dangers to your dog. Bloating, a life-threatening situation is especially common with high corn content. Excessive energy for a couple of hours occurs immediately after eating.

Some of the preservatives found in pet foods are proven to cause cancer to rats and humans but are still allowed in dog food. Many dogs are being diagnosed with allergies to preservatives and some of those allergies affect housetraining by causing the dog to have to pee or poop more frequently or have loose stools.

Do not purchase foods which say they contain BHA (Butylated hydroxyanisole), BHT (Butylated hydroxytoluene) and Ethoxyquin. It is better to look for foods with freshness dates or manufacture dates on them, as they are much less likely to contain preservatives.

70 CHAPTER 9 – THE FIRST EIGHT WEEKS

Housetraining Your Newly Adopted Dog

All dogs need to be housetrained – and, basically, all dogs can be housetrained. If you get a very young puppy, you may have to wait a few weeks before his body allows complete housetraining. If you get a previously abused or neglected dog, it may take a while for him to fully understand what is expected of him.

There are three primary methods of housetraining – the Outdoor Method often referred to as the basic direct method, the paper method, and the litter box method. Each method refers to where the dog potties (not how you train him since that is fairly uniform).

Some people refer to the Crate Method; however, the crate is used as a holding or restraining mechanism, not a place for pottying or for punishment. Therefore, the crate can be used with any of the three methods.

Some people use the Clicker Method. Here again, it is a variation to use along with the three methods. In the clicker method, instead of a word or phrase to tell the dog to ‘go potty’ and a word of praise after he potties, a clicker and a treat are used to positively reinforce his correct behavior.

Seven Steps to Successful Housetraining

Establish a Potty Place. Decide exactly where you want your dog to potty. It can be a corner of your yard or it can be an area of grass (or cement or blacktop) that you choose at your apartment or condo complex. Always walk your dog to that place. If you will eventually be “letting him out” to go potty, make sure your yard is safely fenced – some breeds need a 6-foot secure fence.

Choose a cue word, which will mean ‘go to the potty now’ to both you and your dog. Various words or short phrases include ‘business,’ ‘do it,’ ‘potty,’ ‘hurry up’ or some other word or words that are not used in other parts of training.

Always say this when you want your dog to potty. Once the dog is housetrained, he will usually tell you when he needs to potty rather than you telling him when to potty.

Live by a schedule until the dog is housetrained. Create a schedule according to your dog’s age and your family’s schedules. By scheduling feeding and exercise as well as potty breaks, you will help your dog know what to expect and learn to be able to potty only when you can take him out or let him out to do so. Use this routine every single day without variation.

Be persistent and patient. Not all dogs learn housetraining in a week. In fact, many take several weeks. So keep working with your dog. The effort is well worthwhile. Be consistent; don’t “relax” the expectations or routine.

Be thorough with cleaning up. If you don’t quickly and adequately clean up places where your dog has had an accident, he will go back to those spots again. It is best to clean up without your dog watching.

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Praise your dog every time he does the right thing in the right place. Quietly but enthusiastically praise your dog each time he potties in the right place at the right time. Positive training (reinforcement) is much more effective with dogs than punishment.

Train your dog to use a signal to let you know he needs to go potty. That signal can be a bell he can ring (hung from the doorknob) or can be a way he sits in front of you or looks at you. Some authors recommend clicker training, but that puts you (the owner/trainer) in charge of when the dog potties and does not allow him to tell you when he needs to potty.

Crate Training

The crate is used as a holding or restraining mechanism, not a place for pottying or for punishment. Crate training is simply putting your dog into a crate at times when you cannot watch him every second, you leave home, you want him to sleep, you need him to be or feel safe, you are traveling with him (even to the vet), or you need more control over his behavior.

Crate training is not another method for housetraining. It can be used along with the outdoor method or the paper training method or the litter (box) training method. Crate training is your best ally in housetraining (or if you need to re-train).

Crate training is important for dogs that will be left alone for periods of time or who will be boarded at a place where they will be crated.

A crate is useful for restricting your new dog from access to various areas of the house. This will be a help in keeping him from soiling those parts of the house while he is being housetrained. It will also keep him from chewing things he should not chew until he gets past that stage of life.

Crates are useful for transporting a dog. Some people like to crate their dogs in the car. Unless you purchase a seat for your dog, he will have to be crated to travel by airplane – and travel as cargo.

When you have guests or stay in a motel or at a friend’s home with your dog, a crate is useful in containing the dog and limiting his access to the other people and to furniture and other items.

A crate is vital if you plan to show your dog. Even if that showing will be a 4-H show, you and your child will not want to spend hours holding and walking your dog while awaiting the dog’s turn to “show” and awaiting the results of that showing.

The crate should be a safe place for your dog. Dogs live in dens in the wild, so this will become his den. If it is approached properly and early in his life with you, he will learn to go into it without balking and to stay in it until released without protesting by digging or barking. Many dogs enjoy being in their crates. You do not want your dog to potty in the crate, and if he sees it as his den, he will not potty in it.

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Crate training is never used as punishment or “time out.” It is always to be viewed as a happy and safe place for your dog.

Crate training is an aid to housetraining any age dog no matter what his background. The crate is a place he wants to be and is considered his den, so he will not want to potty in his crate.

Introducing Your Dog To The Crate

Be aware that crate training may take a day or it may take several weeks depending upon your dog. In a few rare cases, dogs simply never crate train and will injure themselves trying to escape.

Be calm, positive, and patient. Be consistent with your dog.

Put the crate in a room where you and your family spend time such as a family room. The floors of crates are either slick – plastic or metal – or wire. Therefore, covering most of the floor with a cheap rug with a rubberized or non-slip backing (or a pad or dog bed) will help your dog’s footing and comfort in the crate.

Make sure it does not have much of a nap or any loops that can catch the dog’s toenail. Such a rug can be easily washed in the washing machine and hung to dry (do not use a dryer to fully dry it as the rubber backing will come apart).

If your dog has a blanket he likes, you may want to put it into the crate. You will also want to put a favorite toy in the crate. A chew toy he likes is a good way to occupy your dog in the crate.

Use the word “kennel” or “crate” to mean ‘go into the crate.’ Always say it in an upbeat, happy voice such as “Tippy, crate.”

Before asking your dog to enter the crate, ALWAYS take him to his potty place, use the cue word you’ve chosen to mean ‘go potty’ and give him ample time to potty.

To get your dog into the crate, start by opening the door and securing it to stay open, or taking it off the crate. Then try putting your dog’s favorite toy in the crate as you say the word you’ve chosen to mean ‘go into the crate.’ If he goes into the crate to get his toy, praise him happily – even if he comes right out with the toy.

If he refuses to go into the crate, encourage him with happy words like “go get it” or “get your toy.” As he goes into the crate to get the toy, say whatever you’ve chosen to mean ‘go into the crate.’

Reach into the crate and get the toy for him if he still refuses and play with him with the toy for a few minutes. Then put it just inside the door to the crate and tell him to get it.

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If, after 2-3 tries, he refuses to enter the crate, try some favorite treats instead of the toy. Another possibility is purchasing an appropriately sized Kong® toy and putting peanut butter in it.

Allow him to have it outside the crate a few times and, if he likes it, then put it in the crate so he will go in and sit there to work on getting the peanut butter out of it. If he won’t enter the crate with the treats or the Kong®, leave the treats or the Kong® there and leave the door open.

Go about your daily routine and let your dog stay with you so he does not think the crate means you are leaving him. You do not want the crate to cause him separation anxiety.

Often if the treats are in the crate and the door is open, he will get curious and go get a treat (or the Kong®) when he thinks you are not looking. If you see him do it, praise him. After he has gotten treats out of it a couple of times, place treats farther in the crate so that he has to go at least halfway in the crate to get them.

Whether or not your dog enters the crate, you will want to work with his entering it 3-4 times a day for 10-15 minutes. If he goes in, praise him. For the first 3-4 days, do not close the door; allow him to go in and out at will.

Tips for Crate Training

The crate is a POSITIVE, happy, safe place. Keep it that way.

Always take your dog to his potty place before asking him to enter the crate.

Always take your dog to his potty place immediately when he comes out of the crate.

Always praise your dog for entering the crate.

When first training your dog to the crate, do not put food (meals) or water in the crate.

Your dog can be given a treat to go into the crate, but be consistent and always give the treat. If you quit giving the treat, then you do not need to randomly give the treat unless he begins to balk at going into the crate.

Never reward whining, digging, scratching or barking with praise or with releasing your dog from the crate.

No dog should spend more than 10 hours of any 24-hour period in a crate. If you crate your dog for the night, then do not crate him while you are at work for 8-10 hours and vice versa, if you crate him while you are at work, then do not crate him at night.

He must have time and place to move around. You need to be careful that he does not feel trapped and that he gets enough exercise and adequate time with you.

If your dog is really upset with the crate and works really hard at digging out, he can seriously injure himself. If he does this, you will have to start crate training all

74 over, staying with him every time you crate him until he is fully settled and relaxed in the crate.

There are some dogs that cannot be crate trained. If that is true of your dog and you truly need to contain him, try “shutting” him in a room like a bathroom with a gate across the door. He has a high need to be able to see you or hear you at all times.

Don’t forget to give him a couple of favorite toys and his blanket or bed. Train him to this room in the same way you would to a crate – a few minutes at a time with you nearby for several days. Gradually lengthen the amount of time.

Add a favorite chew toy and leave that part of the house for a few minutes at a time.

Finding A Veterinarian & A Groomer

Finding the right veterinarian and groomer is very similar. There is often a process involved. If you live near the breeder from whom you purchased your dog, ask what veterinarian (and groomer, if you need one) she uses. This would be the ideal vet (and groomer) to use since he knows the breed and knows the actual puppy and parents of the puppy already.

If this will not work for you, there are several other ways to find the right veterinarian and groomer.

Look in the Yellow Pages under ‘Veterinarians’ and ‘Dog Groomers’. Start with the ones whose offices are closest to your home. Call and ask the receptionist if they have other dogs of the same breed in their clientele.

Ask friends and neighbors who have dogs what veterinarians (and groomers) they use and why. Ask what they like about this vet (groomer). Ask what others they have used and why they no longer use them. You will hear a variety of success stories and horror stories, which will give you some definite ideas about specific vets (and groomers) in your area.

Visit www.healthypet.com which is the web site for the American Animal Hospital Association. Not all animal hospitals are accredited but those that are adhere to high standards of care.

Once you have narrowed your selection to two or three vets (or groomers), call each one and ask if you can have an appointment to meet them, ask a few questions, and tour the facilities.

1. When you arrive, make mental notes about the cleanliness (and smells) of the facilities – all parts.

2. Are the employees friendly, knowledgeable, and helpful?

3. Will they let you see where overnight patients (or waiting clients) are housed? How are they cared for while there? Do the animals appear content? Is there spilled food in many of the cages? Is there an odor of urine or feces?

75 4. Will the vet (groomer) take time to actually meet with you and answer your questions? Does he/she ask about your experiences with dogs and with vets/groomers? Does he ask about your specific dog?

5. Ask about policies and procedures. They may have a welcome letter or brochure you can take. Make sure their payment policies will work for you if you have a large bill like a surgery.

6. If the hospital is not AAHA accredited, where do they recommend you take a sick or injured dog in an emergency? How far away is it? Does that facility notify your vet that your pet has been taken there? If this is a grooming facility, what do they do if they accidentally cut a dog or if they find the dog has a medical problem?

7. If there is more than one vet (groomer) at this facility, can you meet the other(s)? Do you have the same comfort level with them as with the first one?

8. When you leave, think about how comfortable you were with the vet (groomer) and the staff. If you felt uneasy or unsure, be sure you visit at least one more facility and interview the vet(s) or groomer(s) there.

Make an appointment with the vet for your new dog within 48 hours of bringing him home. You will want him to meet the vet and get a check up. You will want to take his health record to the vet’s office so they can get your dog’s record started right. Also, make an appointment for neuter/spay for your dog as soon as the vet will do it.

What Vaccines Will Your Dog Need?

There are two general groups of vaccines to consider: Core and Non-Core Vaccines.

Core Vaccines

Core Vaccinations, (distemper, adenovirus, parvovirus, and rabies), are generally recommended for all dogs and protect against diseases that are more serious or potentially fatal.

These diseases are found in all areas of North America and are more easily transmitted than noncore diseases. Noncore vaccines are those reserved for patients at specific risk for infection due to exposure or lifestyle: kennel cough, Lyme disease and leptospirosis.

Make sure that your dog completes the initial series of core vaccines administered at the puppy stage, as well as booster shots at one year of age.

Following these one-year boosters, the AAHA Canine Vaccine Guidelines recommend that the distemper, adenovirus and parvovirus core vaccines be administered once every three years. States and municipalities govern how often rabies boosters are administered. Some areas require a rabies booster be administered annually.

Others require a three-year-effective rabies booster be given every three years. Still others allow either a one-year or a three-year rabies vaccine to be utilized.

76 Non-Core Vaccines

Non-Core vaccinations should be administered whenever the risk of the disease is significant enough to override any risk of vaccination. For example, kennel cough vaccine may need to be administered up to every six months in a dog repeatedly being kenneled or exposed to groups of dogs at grooming salons or dog shows.

One of the easiest and most effective ways of preventing your dog from getting sick is by making sure he gets all his vaccinations on a regular basis. Puppies need vaccinations every two to four weeks until they are at least 14 weeks of age. Most vets follow the schedules given below, although there may be some variation from state to state. Some vaccines are given separately, while others may be combined into a single shot, which makes things easier.

If a dog over 16 weeks of age has an unknown vaccine history, has not been previously vaccinated, or is more than six months over due, vaccinate and booster in 3 weeks, then annually. Intranasal Bordetella and Rabies are exceptions to the 2-4 weeks booster rule (see recommendations below).

Age at 1st Age at 2nd Age at 3rd Age at 4th Revaccination Disease Vaccination Vaccination Vaccination Vaccination Interval (weeks) (weeks) (weeks) (weeks) (months) DHLPPC (Distemper, Hepatitis, Leptospirosis, 6-8 9-11 12-14 16-17 12 Parvovirus, Parainfluenza, Corona combination) Bordetella 14 ------6 (Internasal) Rabies 16* ------12-36* Giardia 14 17 -- -- 12 Lyme 14 17 -- -- 12

*Check with your veterinarian as to type of vaccine and state regulations.

All dogs should have a fecal (stool) exam for heartworm once a year and should take heartworm preventative once a month year round.

All dogs should also have flea and tick preventative applied to their skin once a month during any month plus the month before and the month after that the average temperature is above freezing. Check with your vet for specific recommendations in your area. See Chapter 1 for approximate costs for vet services.

Should You Tag / Microchip Your Dog?

The answer is “yes” – do both!

According to the American Humane Association, only about seventeen percent of lost dogs ever find their way back to their original owners. Almost 20 million pets are euthanized every year because their owners can't be found.

77 There are ways to beat these odds though, and they're a little higher-tech than the nametag and collar – although you should also use those. To give your pet the best chance to be identified, no matter how far he roams, have him implanted with a microchip.

Tags and collars are a good start—they're certainly better than no ID at all—but they aren't 100 percent dependable.

Tags can fade, rust, or get scratched and be impossible to read. Collars can tear or slip off, or even worse, get caught on something while your pet is wandering in the wilderness and hurt or kill him.

With microchipping, on the other hand, a veterinarian injects a tiny computer chip— about the size of a grain of rice—just under your pet's skin, between the shoulder blades.

The procedure is simple, routine, and painless, and it doesn't require any anesthesia. Your pet simply gets an injection just under the loose skin between the shoulder blades; it's a lot like getting vaccinated. Most animals don't react at all.

Then the number on the computer chip is entered in an international database, like the Central Animal Registry or PETtrac. If your dog or cat is found, any animal hospital, shelter, or humane society can use a microchip reader to read the unique ID number contained on the chip.

The veterinarian or worker then calls the database, or accesses it on the computer, and enters the number given off by the microchip. The database matches the number to your name and phone number. The chip can't be lost or damaged, and it lasts for the pet's lifetime.

The microchip is convenient, safe, and reliable. While the price can vary from one veterinarian to another, it often falls between $25 and $40. A lot of veterinarians will charge even less if they perform the implantation at the same time as another procedure, like spaying, neutering, or dental work. It's a one-time fee; the chip never needs maintenance or replacement.

There may be a fee, generally under $20, to enter your pet's ID number in a database, and there may be a small fee for changing your address, phone number, or other contact information in the database. Still, microchip identification is cheaper than making flyers, calling around town, and taking time off work to find a lost pet.

78 CHAPTER 10 - MAKING DOGGY A FAMILY MEMBER Socialization Activities

A good breeder begins the process of socialization with your puppy, but you must continue it. Cute as your puppy is, don’t protect it from new experiences. Your dog will never again be as open to learning about new experiences. However, you don’t have to let everyone pet it all the time – it is your puppy and not public property. Remember to always keep your puppy (dog) on its leash when taking him outside.

Take your puppy (dog) to the vet ‘just to visit’ – even when it isn’t time for shots or an exam – so he will enjoy going to the vet.

Take your puppy (dog) with you to visit people you visit often like other family members and close friends. He will learn who those people are and trust them. He will also learn not to make a fuss around them once he has greeted them as they will become part of the pack.

Take your puppy (dog) some place in the car every couple of days (every day if possible) to help him become a happy traveler. Dogs enjoy going to run errands with you.

Many businesses have a doggie biscuit if they know your dog is with you. Some outdoor cafes even have places designated for you to sit if your dog is along.

Make sure your puppy (dog) hears all types of household noises: TV, radio, vacuum, timers, doorbell, dishwasher, various clocks and chimes, horns honking, etc.

Take lots of walks with your puppy (dog). They will have to be short at first, but soon he will be able to walk for a half hour or more. Walk all over your neighborhood and other neighborhoods and go to lots of parks and dog parks. Your dog will have many new experiences and make many new friends.

Expose your puppy (dog) to a variety of other noises such as lawnmower, snow blower, jets, sirens, power saws, noisy cars or trucks, etc.

Take your puppy (dog) to places he can see and meet a variety of people. Good places to go are strip malls and a variety of parks as well as walking neighborhood streets.

He should meet men and women, children and teenagers, older people, people in wheelchairs, people of different ethnicities, people wearing floppy hats or sunglasses, people who smoke cigarettes and pipes, people who love dogs, and people who are afraid of dogs.

Expose your puppy (dog) to different walking surfaces: grass, gravel, dirt, sawdust, asphalt, soft carpet, slippery floors like linoleum, etc. Be careful if the surface is scary or slippery and do not let your dog fall.

79 Also be aware that his legs can splay out in different directions and he can be injured. His knees may not be fully developed and can be easily damaged.

Keeping your dog on a leash, introduce him to a variety of animals. Even if you live in an apartment complex, there will be other dogs, cats, perhaps ferrets and birds and even some “wild” animals like skunks, groundchucks, squirrels, chipmunks, ducks, and even deer. Be aware of animals like skunks, which can spray you and your dog if frightened.

Groundchucks and squirrels may also try to be protective and “rush” you and your dog, especially if they have babies. If possible, take your dog to meet other animals like horses or goats or cows.

Although dogs are not usually allowed at a county fair, there are places like cut-your- own Christmas tree farms where you can take your dog and give him a fun, new experience.

By all means, take your puppy/dog to doggie kindergarten. This is a great socialization activity and serves to introduce your dog to more formal training. It will also give you a professional dog trainer to talk with if you have questions or problems.

Always watch your puppy/dog carefully when introducing him to a new experience. If he shows fear, do NOT pet him or say “Good dog.” Instead, say something cheerful such as, “Don’t be silly, that’s just a cat.” Let him approach the experience or animal at his own pace.

Try to do or see one new thing every day for the first couple of months, but don’t spend too much time doing it. Your dog is still a puppy and will tire easily.

Wraning: Never leave your dog in a car for over a certain length of time. The inside of the car tends to get hot and is suffocating for the dog. Dogs are susceptible to heat stroke and death when locked up in a car, so be careful and ensure that you keep at least one window open and return to the car in an hour or less to get your dog out to walk around.

General Information About Training

The benefits of training your dog to obey commands are that:

• Your dog will be well behaved. • Your dog will be more secure in his relationship with you. • You will have an aid to working through undesired behaviors. • You and your dog will better understand each other. • Your dog will not “visit” or chase other animals when you are walking. • It is the only safe way to walk your dog if you are away from home. • It is the only way to have control of your dog in any situation.

80 • It is a form of leader-follower relationship that establishes your entire relationship. • You will enjoy taking your dog places with you. • Others will enjoy your dog (and not wish it would go away). • Your dog will be a better family member.

Just like , the keys here are consistency, patience, and praise – and train persistently (every day at least once for 15-20 minutes). All commands should be in a firm voice.

Never get on the dog’s level while working because it indicates to your dog that it is playtime, not work time. If you need to correct your dog, the first word out of your mouth should always be “No.” Then repeat the correct command.

Praising your dog is very important. Most dogs are very willing to please, so they work for praise. Therefore, the praise they receive when they do a good job has to be ample enough to make them want to obey the commands. If you rub your dog under her chin while saying “Good girl, good dog!” in a happy voice, it will make her look up at you, which will then make her pay attention to you.

What if you have a dog that is leash-shy (afraid of the leash)? Using a quick-release buckle collar, attach the six-foot leash and let your dog drag it around for 15 minutes.

Later the same day, do it again. The next day, let your dog drag the leash for 30 minutes twice a day. During the time he is dragging the leash, give him some tidbits at various times, praise him every few minutes, and pick up the leash and just hold it while you are with him or feeding him or stroking him and then drop it again.

After 3-5 days of his dragging the least at least twice a day, he should let you put the slip collar or choke chain on him with the leash and walk around with you if you have tidbits of food in your pocket or hand.

Do not force the issue; only ask him to do if for 10 minutes the first couple of times. Then gradually increase the time. Once he wears the training collar and leash for 20 minutes without going crazy, you can begin to train him to heel and sit.

Putting On The Training Collar

Why do you want to train using a choke chain? Why not something else like a prong collar or one of the several combination muzzle or halter type collars? Or how about a nylon quick-release collar?

First, what are we trying to accomplish? We want to get the dog’s attention! Our objective is not to jerk the dog around or overpower it. We want the dog to obey our commands and to walk beside us naturally.

The dog has to listen to us, learn the commands and the appropriate behavior and do what is expected on its own. Only one collar accomplishes that – the chain link choker. However, if you have a puppy less than six months old or a very tiny dog like a Yorkshire Terrier, you may want to use a nylon choker designed on the same principle.

81 The best way to put the choker on your dog is to hold one ring of the collar and drop the chain down through it. This ring becomes the “dead” ring.

Then pick the loop of the chain up so that the choke collar looks like a horizontal P in front of the dog’s nose. Then slip it over the dog’s head and attach the leash to the “live” ring. The “live” ring should be attached to chain that goes straight across the top of the dog’s neck and the “dead” ring should be attached to chain that goes down and under the dog’s chin.

If the choke chain is attached to the leash before putting it on the dog, the ring farthest away from the leash (not attached to the leash) is the one you will drop the chain through, as it will be the “dead” ring.

With the leash and choke chain on the dog in this way, you will be able to ‘jerk and release’ so that the dog is alerted to pay attention to you with the jerk as the chain tightens, but he can breathe when you release as the chain loosens.

If the choke chain is put on the dog backwards, it will look like a “q” in front of his nose, the end attached to the leash will go immediately under his chin, and the choke chain will be tight around his neck all of the time. So please mind your “p” and not your “q”! Your dog will thank you.

Correct “p” Incorrect “q”

How do you correct the dog?

You use a jerk and release. Hold the end of the leash in your right hand and fold it a couple of times into your right hand. Then let the leash go across the front of your thighs and grab it in your left hand.

If the training collar is on the dog correctly, when you pull sharply on the leash with your left hand and then release the tension, the slip collar will tighten to get his attention and then loosen. That is called a jerk and release. Make sure the training collar is around his neck just below the ears.

Training collars have a tendency to slide down the dog’s neck as you work. Check it if you are not getting your dog’s attention. The coat is thicker and the musculature is heavier farther down the throat, so the dog may not even feel the jerk and release if the training collar is too far down.

82 Basic Commands For Good Manners

No

Teaching “No” can be a very difficult thing. Your dog will probably not understand it at first. It will take her a little while to catch on. However, once she catches on, it will be a very useful word. Whenever your dog does something you do not want her to do, such as chewing the furniture, say the word “No!” in a very firm voice.

If needed, this can be reinforced with a rolled up newspaper smacked on your hand or clapping or using a shake can -- basically any noise that will startle your dog.

If you use the words “no” or “bad dog” in a firm but disappointed tone of voice when your dog gets into something or otherwise misbehaves, you will get better results than if you yell “no, no, no” in a shrill scream or go off in a tirade about how bad your dog is.

Since most dogs only understand some of the actual words we say, our tone of voice and body language and the consistent use of certain words is more effective than anything else we can do.

Teaching “no” and “bad dog” is most effective if the words are uttered clearly but in a low, growly or guttural tone of voice. Be loud and firm without shouting.

Only use “no” or “bad dog” if you catch your dog in the act of whatever behavior is not allowed. Using those commands after the fact is confusing to your dog. These are best used if you catch your dog peeing or pooping in the house, grabbing food from the counter, chasing the cat, etc.

Don’t forget to praise your dog when he does the right thing. If you only discipline (negative reinforcing) without praising (positive reinforcing), he will become fearful of you.

Potty

Choose a cue word, which will mean ‘go to the potty now’ to both you and your dog. Various words or short phrases include ‘business,’ ‘do it,’ ‘potty,’ or some other word or words that are not used in other parts of training. Always say this when you want your dog to potty.

Once the dog is housetrained, he will usually tell you when he needs to potty rather than you telling him when to potty.

Adding the word ‘hurry’ or ‘now’ (with an urgent tone to your voice) to your word for going potty will mean that your want your dog to do it immediately. A good time to start using that word is when you are preparing to take your dog some place in the car.

Since most dogs love to go in the car, they will hurry to do their business to get to go. Once he has done this several times, he will catch on to the word ‘hurry’ or ‘now’.

83 Drop It / Give

‘Drop it’ or ‘Give’ will be important for your dog to learn. Use one of these terms consistently to mean ‘let go of whatever is in your mouth’. Some dogs learn this easily while others act like they will never learn it.

Dogs like retrievers who have been bred for decades to retrieve birds without putting their teeth into the birds have what is called a ‘soft mouth’ and will be easier to train to give.

Start while the dog is young. Use a specific toy, and while playing fetch, use the command ‘give’ each time the dog brings the toy to you. Then reach out and take the toy from the dog’s mouth while repeating the command.

Praise the dog lavishly for obeying and giving you the toy. The dog will then probably expect you to throw the toy again.

Many breeds are very possessive of their belongings (especially toys), so teaching them to give the toy to you will take much more time and patience.

Dogs, whose lower jaws stick out with their lower teeth farther forward than their top teeth, have physical problems releasing the toy to you. With enough insistence and persistence they can obey the command, but you have to be careful that the dog does not accidentally bite you or get the toy stuck on his teeth or that you do not injure his teeth or jaw in the process.

This command is one that could save your dog’s life. Dogs are naturally curious and will pick anything up in their mouths. Many things are not meant to be in anyone’s mouth. Dogs will pick up old wrappers, dog poop, any bone they find, any food they find, dead animals, etc.

Many of these things can be bad for them; some can even poison them. Being able to get your dog to give an item rather than shaking it, chewing it, or swallowing it is critical to his survival.

Floor Or No Jump

‘Floor’ is a command to teach your dog to keep all four paws on the floor or ground. ‘No Jump’ is a command you can teach your dog to mean ‘do not jump on people’

When the dog jumps on people, give the command “FLOOR” and take the dog by the shoulders and pull it down to a laying down position on the floor. Do not release his shoulders until he relaxes. If he jumps again, pull him down again. If it is difficult for you to pull him down by the shoulders, put a training collar and leash on him and jerk him sharply away from the person. If he is really excited, put one foot firmly on the leash so that he cannot get up to jump. Once he has calmed down, release him and make him SIT – STAY. When he does it, praise him. Do not let him jump up, go crazy, or jump on the people in response to the praise. You may need to keep the praise low-key.

84 Leave It

‘Leave it’ is a command to teach your dog to leave things alone, to stop sniffing where he is sniffing, to let go of something in his mouth, to not pick up something, and to not stop every two seconds to sniff something while on a walk.

Place treats in three places around your home and yard. Put your dog’s slip collar and leash on him. When your Dog goes to get one of the treats, use his slip collar and leash to jerk him away from the treat and say very firmly, “Leave it.”

As time goes on, he will find another treat, when he approaches that treat, jerk him again and say “Leave it”. The Dog will eventually go for the third hidden treat at which time you jerk him a third time. After the third jerk, you take him to the food bowl and allow him to eat.

Off

Some people use ‘floor’ or ‘no jump’ to keep the dog from jumping on people and then use ‘off’ to keep him from getting on the furniture while others use ‘off’ to mean all of those things.

The first few times you use this command you will probably have to take your dog by his collar and drag him off the couch or down from jumping on someone. Use a displeased, growly voice and say it at least twice while showing him what you want. Then praise him when he is on the floor.

Boundary

Even with a fence of some sort you need to teach your dog the boundaries of your yard – starting the first day he is home. Mark the perimeter of the area where you would like to contain the dog with red flags or other items that the dog will be able to visually recognize through the training phase.

Once marked, walk your dog on a lead around the perimeter. Anytime the dog tries to go through the marked area, tug firmly and say "Boundary". You will need to perform this ritual every time your dog goes outside until you are confident he understands he should remain within the boundaries.

Once you feel he understands, you may release him from his lead and watch him closely. If he exits the perimeter, you need to reattach his lead and continue to train.

85 Basic Commands For Obedience

Work Time

Start each work session with the upbeat announcement, “work time” as you put the training collar and leash on your dog. Believe it or not, your dog will look forward to this time together with you.

With a young dog or puppy, start out by working for only 15-20 minutes at a time. You can work twice a day. If you do it outside, make sure it is not too hot and humid or too cold for your dog.

Distractions are not a bad thing; they make your dog have to pay attention to you.

The Release Word (Free, All Done, Okay)

During training, your dog should have a command that means that training is over and it is no longer time to work. Some people use the phrase “Free dog,” while others use “Play time,” and still others use “All done.” Simply “okay” or “free” work too.

Give the command in a happy voice (usually goes up the scale at the end of the word or phrase, such as “good dog” or “what a good girl”) and then play with your dog for a few minutes.

Heel & Sit

Heeling is one of the most important things to teach. Put your dog’s slip collar and leash on her and have her sit on your left side. Say your dog’s name and the word “Heel” (ex: “Tippy, heel.”).

After giving the command, step off on your left foot and walk forward. If your dog lags behind or gets ahead of you or isn’t staying next to your left leg, jerk and release on her slip collar repeating the word “heel.” Immediately let slack back in your leash and praise your dog (“Good girl.”, “What a good dog!”).

Make sure you keep slack in your leash except when you are correcting your dog. Always repeat the command when you jerk and release so that your dog knows what you want her to do.

When you stop, your dog should sit on your left side. To ensure that she does this, stop with your right foot and then your left foot. Your dog will learn to follow your left foot.

When you stop, if your dog does not immediately sit, jerk up on her leash and slip collar and say “Sit.” At first, you will have to jerk on her leash and slip collar and say “Sit” while gently but firmly pushing down on her butt. Make sure she is sitting straight.

After the first few times, she should catch on and you should not have to do anything but stop and maybe jerk on her leash and slip collar. Always praise your dog when she is doing well and doing what you want her to do.

86 You should also always praise your dog at the end of an exercise (heel and sit, sit-stay, come, etc.) because it keeps her interested and happy and willing to work. Do only ‘heel and sit’ for the first week. Then progress to ‘sit-stay’ as well as ‘heel and sit.’

Sit-Stay

Once you have your dog’s slip collar and leash on her, have her sit on your left side. Make her heel (“Tippy, heel,” and step off on your left foot) a few feet and then stop and have her sit straight on your left side. When she is sitting on your left side, tell her “Stay.” Do NOT use your dog’s name. The dog’s name is used to get her attention for an active command and it is not used for a passive command. Just use the command “Stay.”

After giving the command, step off on your right foot and stand right in front of her nose, facing her. This way, if she moves, you can tell her “No” and immediately correct her.

The more you practice sit-stay, the farther away you can get from your dog until you are eventually at the end of your six foot leash. When you return to your dog from a sit-stay, walk to the right with your dog on the left all the way around her.

Do not let your leash touch your dog, and do not let her move while you are walking around her. Don’t step on her, especially her tail. After you are back in the “Heel” position (with your dog sitting at your left side facing forward), count slowly and silently to five before praising your dog.

Then praise your dog. This teaches her that the exercise is not finished until you say it is.

Come & By Heel

After you have worked on ‘heel and sit’ and ‘sit-stay,’ the next step is “Come.” This command will be useful in many different situations. It will be taught with your dog’s slip collar and leash, like all the other commands have been so far.

When your dog has her slip collar and leash on and is sitting on your left side, heel a few feet (“Tippy, heel,” and then step off on your left foot) and then stop and make her sit straight on your left side. When she is sitting on your left side, tell her “Stay” without using her name and step off on your right foot.

Step off on the left foot if your dog is to go with you and on the right foot if she is to stay. Take a few steps in front of your dog and turn around and face her (like you would during a sit-stay). Let her sit a few minutes, and then, in a really upbeat voice, say her name followed by the word “Come” (ex: “Tippy, come.”).

Reel in her leash and make her sit directly in front of you, facing you. Praise her and return like you would after a sit-stay (walk all the way around her being careful not to drag the leash across her or step on her).

After a few days of you and your dog practicing “Come,” there is another step you can add to it. When your dog has come and is sitting in front of you facing you, tell her “By heel.”

87 Then take one step backwards (put one foot behind you and rock back on it and then forward again with both feet together) and make your dog walk behind you (from your right to your left), making sure you pass the leash from your right hand to your left hand behind you.

The step backwards ensures that your dog learns to walk behind you and completely around you. Your dog should now be sitting in the “heel” position at your left side facing forwards.

Wait a few seconds and then praise your dog.

Down

Once you have your dog’s slip collar and leash on her, have her sit on your left side. Make her heel (“Tippy, heel,” and step off on your left foot) a few feet and then stop and have her sit straight on your left side.

Give her the command “Down.” Do not use her name. Make her lie down on your left side. The first couple times you may have to actually force your dog to lie down. For example, you may have to push down on her shoulders or walk her front paws out in front of her. Down is a submissive position for a dog, so it may take a while to get her to do it.

Once she is lying down on your left side, tell her “Stay” and step off on your right foot. Start by standing directly in front of her so that if she moves or gets up, you can correct her immediately.

The more you practice, the farther away you can stand until you are at the end of your six foot leash. When you return to your dog, walk all the way around her like you did when returning for a sit.

Stand so she is on your left side and slowly and silently count to ten before giving your dog the “Sit” command and making her sit. If she gets up when you return to her before you give her the “Sit” command, make her lie back down and count to ten again before repeating the “Sit” command and having her sit.

This ensures that she understands that she has been given a command to follow and that she is not supposed to move until she is freed or given the next command. Then praise your dog.

88 CHAPTER 11 – FROM EIGHT WEEKS TO . . . Expanding Your Dog’s Socialization

Once your dog heels and sits reliably and has had his vaccinations (about 3-4 months of age), you can start taking your dog on walks where he is around other people and other dogs.

Always keep him on his leash. Do not make him walk too long for his age and stamina – or for the length of his legs. Start with your neighborhood.

Another day take him in the car and go to another neighborhood. Then start discovering parks – city parks, county parks, state parks, dog parks, etc. Don’t forget he will have to potty during the time he is there. Take him away from where people are walking and away from food vendors. Take plastic bags to pick up any poop.

Take your dog wherever he is allowed, but if it says ‘no dogs except service dogs’ do not try to pass him off as a service dog. Most states do not allow dogs in restaurants or grocery stores; however, if the restaurant has outdoor seating, he may be allowed there if he behaves. Don’t try this until he does sit-stay and down-stay reliably.

Outdoor art fairs and festivals are a good place to take your dog. Always keep him on his leash and close to you. Always be aware of what your dog is doing so he is not sniffing people in an offensive way.

Be sure to take him a bowl and some water. If it is hot weather, find some shade to sit in with your dog every hour. If your dog is small, you will need to watch carefully to make sure he is not being stepped on.

Realize that you may end of carrying him much of the day if you go for more than an hour. There are dog strollers you can buy for such a purpose – or just go for a couple of hours.

Don’t forget he will have to potty during the time he is there. Take him away from where people are walking and away from food vendors. Take plastic bags to pick up any poop.

A good way to prepare your dog is to practice heeling figure 8’s around trees and posts in your neighborhood. Also, make left turns, right turns, and U-turns when you practice heeling.

Go to dog training classes together. You will both look forward to it and you will both benefit greatly. Take your dog to learn to do Agility at an Agility Park (often in a dog park) or at a training facility. This is a ton of fun for both of you.

Once you have taught your dog obedience, participate in Rally at a dog show. Many fun shows will let you enter Rally even if your dog is not a purebred.

89 Activities To Do With Your Dog

There are lots of ways to play with dogs. Some dogs are creative and make up their own games. Whatever you do to play with your dog, both you and the dog should enjoy it and anticipate it with joy. Some games are education and supplement the teaching you will be doing and some are just fun.

Two games to play to help the dog learn to come are ‘Boomerang Recall’ and ‘See Me.’

Boomerang Recall

Sit on the floor or the ground outside with two or three other people – like a circle with the dog in the middle. Take turns calling the dog. Praise him when he comes to the person who called him. Sometimes give him a treat, but not each time. That way he will come every time because he won’t know which time he will get the treat.

See Me

Put several treats in your pocket. Go into another room and call your dog by saying “Tippy, see me” or “Tippy, come.” Give your dog a treat when he comes. Praise him lavishly. As he gets older and is given more space in the house, hide from him and call him. Give him the treat and praise him.

Play games he likes instinctively.

Fetch

Teach your dog to return with a thrown object such as a ball, a toy, or a stick. Show him the object excitedly. Let him sniff it. Start by throwing it just a couple of feet away. Act really excited about it. Tell him “Tippy, fetch” or “Tippy, retrieve” or “Tippy, get it.”

When he brings it back, praise him. If he doesn’t bring it back, get it and try again. Once he brings it back reliably, start throwing it farther or in a different direction. If he likes to swim, play fetch in the water with him.

Play games that will help him in later activities.

Maze and Obstacle Course

Set up a maze using chairs turned on their sides. Use 3-4 chairs to create a ‘Z’. Put Puppy at one end. You go to the other end and call him. Use a treat. If he cannot find his way to you, walk part way through the maze to him and reach out with the treat so he can smell it and call him. Coax him through the maze.

90 Once he masters the ‘Z’, make it harder. Use more chairs, include a tree to go around, or a children’s tunnel to go through to get to you. This will help him with problem solving and prepare him for agility.

Follow the Leader

Put your dog’s leash on him. Run backwards, calling your dog. Encourage him to zig and zag with you as you run instead of always running in a straight line. Set up chairs to weave through. Alternatively, set up two chairs and do a figure 8. This activity not only prepares him for weave poles in agility, it prepares him for Figure 8 in obedience.

Go to dog training classes together. You will both look forward to it and you will both benefit greatly. Take your dog to learn to do Agility at an Agility Park (often in a dog park) or at a training facility. This is a ton of fun for both of you.

Once you have taught your dog obedience, participate in Rally at a dog show. Many fun shows will let you enter Rally even if your dog is not a purebred.

Caring For Your Dog

Bathing

Your dog needs your help in staying clean and well groomed. Most dogs will not need a bath more than once a month and many will only need a couple of baths each year. Only bathe your dog if his coat is dirty or discolored or if he smells. Some dogs will need to visit a groomer every 6-8 weeks.

Do not use people shampoo on your dog. There are good dog shampoos available. If your dog is white, purchase a special shampoo made for white dogs. It has a bluing agent in it to make them whiter.

For those breeds whose eyes run and discolor the fur on their faces, there is special shampoo to use on their faces to clean that off. If your dog does not have fleas, then you do not need a flea shampoo. In other words, look at the options (or talk to a groomer) and get the appropriate shampoo.

Brush his coat out before bathing your dog. You should use warm water to bathe your dog, so using the hose outside is not an option. Get a hose that will attach to your bathtub or sink spigot so you can reach the entire dog. Run the water until it is warm but not hot to your touch.

Wet your dog from his rear end up toward his head. You may want to run the water on his feet first while you talk calmly to him. Some dogs have coats that were designed to repel water, so they are hard to get wet. Rough up their coat by going against the way it normally lays.

Lather the dog all over, all the way to the skin. Don’t forget his ears, legs, chest and tail. Then rinse him thoroughly. Throw a towel over him, especially his head as you lift him

91 from the tub or sink to prevent him from shaking water all over you. Rub him well with the towel. Larger dogs will need more than one towel.

Then finish with a hairdryer turned on low. Move the hairdryer continuously so it is not too hot on him in any spot. When he is nearly dry, brush him. Keep him inside where it is warm until he is completely dry or, if it is a warm, sunny day, take him for a short walk to finish drying.

Do not let him outside by himself as the first thing he will do is roll and get dirtier than before the bath!

Grooming

Grooming starts with brushing. Nearly every dog needs to be brushed at least twice a week. Start early so your dog learns to enjoy and look forward to the stroking and attention you give him when you brush and comb him. If you do not allow his coat to become tangled and matted, he will love this time.

Many dogs beg for it on a daily basis once they find out how nice it is to get your attention and stroking. Even short-haired dogs and those who do not shed very much enjoy being brushed and need it at least once a week to keep their coats and skin healthy.

Double-coated dogs (and many others) shed, called blowing coat, twice a year and will need extra brushing and maybe even a shedding blade used on them at those times. Consult a groomer if you have questions about coat care, brushes and combs, or how to use the brush or comb.

Feeding

Feeding the appropriate hard kibbled food is the starting point for good teeth with minimal plaque and tartar. Eukanuba and IAMS (owned by Colgate Palmolive) also have an additive to help with that.

There are chew toys like Nylabone® and Greenies® that also aid with keeping teeth clean and healthy. Additionally you can clean his teeth with a doggie toothbrush which fits on your finger or a gauze square.

Do not use people toothpaste; use doggie toothpaste or baking soda. Ask your veterinarian to show you how to do this.

Cutting Nails

If you start when your dog is a puppy, you can cut his nails yourself. Play with his paws often to desensitize him so that nail trimming is not traumatic. Start by cutting the nail tips on a weekly basis. Adult dogs will probably only need this once a month.

You can do this by holding your puppy in your lap or, if your dog is too big for that, stand him on a table (with a rubber bathtub mat under him to prevent his slipping) or you can sit on the floor with him (again put the bathtub mat under him).

92 As you lift each paw to trim the nails, let him lean against you for balance if he needs to and talk calmly to him while you trim his nails. Praise him when you finish.

Do not cut into the quick or you will have bleeding nails, which may traumatize your dog and scare you. If you do draw blood, using septic powder (available near men’s shaving needs in the drug store or Wal-Mart) and holding a paper towel on the nail for a few minutes should stop it.

Do not forget the dew claws if your dog has them. These are the thumb-like claws on the inside of the front paws. Some breeds (like Poodles) have them removed when the dogs are puppies.

Cleaning Ears

All dogs need regular ear cleaning – at least once a month. Dogs with drop ears (which hang down) and many Retrievers need it at least once a month while dogs with prick ears (which stand up) will need it less often.

Rubbing alcohol should never be used in your dog’s ears as it is too drying. Vets and pet stores sell dog ear-cleaning solutions you can safely use. Use cotton balls or tissues (not cotton-tipped swabs).

A bit of honey-colored wax is normal, but if you get a lot of goo or it is dark brown or smelly, take your dog to the vet. Also if the ear is red, take him to the vet. These may indicate an infection, which needs to be treated.

If your dog shakes his head frequently or paws at his ears, clean his ears. If there is very little in his ears, take him to the vet to see if he has an inner ear infection.

Cleaning Eyes

Puppies and some adult dogs will need their faces washed with a washcloth of clear water each day. Many dogs have eyes that run enough each day to get crusty so make sure you remove the crustiness.

Some dogs get food around their mouths while others drool and get gooey around the mouth. If you need to remove goop from your dog’s eyes, use a tissue and be very gentle.

Cleaning Pads

Check your dog’s pads at least once a week. Look for cracks and raw places. If he walks on asphalt (blacktop) or cement frequently, it is very hard on his pads. If he has cracks or raw places, you will have to get a triple antibiotic ointment (from the drug store or Wal-Mart) to put on them. If that does not help them heal in a couple of days, call your vet and get some ointment from him.

If you live in an area where salt products are used on streets and sidewalks, wash his feet each time he is on the street or sidewalk where there is any salt. When you prepare to go on a walk, put a carton with warm water and an old towel by the door you will come in. When you return, dip each paw in the water and then dry it with the towel.

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Pay special attention to the pads and the areas between the pads and apply ointment as needed. The salt will not only damage his pads, but he will absorb it into his system and could become ill from it.

First-Aid For Your Dog

No matter how careful you are with you dear pooch, accidents may occur. It is always wise to keep a first aid kit handy for your pet dog.

A first aid kit is kept to provide primary relief to a pet in pain or danger. It should prevent further physical or psychological injuries till you get a qualified vet to attend to your ailing dog.

Many pre-packaged first aid kits that are available in the market as well as on the internet. In case you choose to buy them, make sure you thoroughly check the shelf lives of the contents. If the kit has perishable medicines, make sure you get new supplies when they expire.

In case you are planning to make your own first aid kit, take time to pick your contents carefully so that you are well equipped to handle any emergency situation.

A good first aid kit should be more than just strips of band-aid and anti-septic lotions. One clear advantage of making your own dog first aid kit is that you can have large supplies of things that you think you may require more often.

The first thing that you need is a proper box. Choose one that is big enough to suit your requirements. Use a label on it to write "Dog First Aid " on all sides, with a red permanent marker.

Do not forget to note down the following information on a piece of paper, inside the box.

1. Your name, address and phone number 2. Name & phone number of someone close to you, who will take care of your dogs if you are not there 3. Name & phone number of your vet 4. Names of any particular medication that your dog is under and its appropriate dosage. 5. Any kind of allergy that your dog may have and its prevention.

First Aid Kit Checklist

Rectal Thermometer - this can be the glass kind or the newer electronic kind. The electronic ones beep when they are finished registering a temperature.

They are slightly smaller than the glass kind. They do not break as easily. They can be covered with thin sleeves to halt the spread of germs.

94 They can also be used as oral thermometers. They do have a battery which will need replacing and they are more expensive then the glass ones. [Normal canine temperature - 100.5 to 102.5F]

Lubricating jelly to lubricate thermometer

Cotton gauze bandage wrap — 1.5-inch width, 3-inch width

Instant hot and cold compresses

Vet Wrap — 2-inch width, and 4 inch width (4 inch is sold for horses)

Ace bandage

First aid tape

Regular bandaids

Cotton swabs or Q-tips

Benadryl

Ascriptin (buffered aspirin)

Pepto Bismol tablets

New Skin liquid bandage (useful for patching abrasions on pads)

Iodine tablets (if you hike and camp in areas where the stream water may not be safe for consumption with out first treating with iodine or boiling)

Oral syringes (very useful for administering liquid oral medicines, getting ear drying solution into ears, etc.)

Needle & thread

Safety pins in several sizes

Razor blade (paper wrapped for protection)

Matches

Tweezers

Hemostat (useful for pulling ticks, thorns, large splinters, etc)

Small blunt end scissors (a must for animal first aid - used for cutting hair away from wounds)

Antibiotic ointment (such as Bacitracin, Betadine, or others)

95 Eye rinsing solution (simple mild eye wash)

Small bottle of 3% hydrogen peroxide (to induce vomiting)

Small bottle of isopropyl alcohol for rubbing

Alcohol or antiseptic wipes (in small individual packets)

Stockingette to protect bandage on leg or foot

You can get the above supplies over a drug store counter. In case you are keeping any topical medication, do obtain them from your vet only. Also see to it that you regularly replenish the expired supplies.

Think about what you could use as a stretcher - a door, board, blanket or floor mat.

For a list of basic First Aid for your Dog and videos on how to perform First Aid, see www.healthypet.com/library_view.aspx?ID=81&sid=1

Your first aid kit should be easily accessible at all times. So it only makes sense to keep one in the car as well. Everyone should know where it is. Remember that a good first aid kit is one that will be able to help, even when you yourself are not around.

Hope the information provided in this book has helped you.

Dog ownership is not easy; it requires your time, effort and energy. It is a lifetime commitment that demands lots of patience and persistence.

Right knowledge will help you sail through the difficulties and problems attached to bringing up a dog. Therefore, ensure that you do your research well and are absolutely sure about adopting a dog.

And once you do so, love and care should be continuous, as you will also receive from your canine friend.

96 Appendix

Products www.arcatapet.com/dogstuff.cfm - cages and crates, crate mats and liners, pet doors, gates, dog beds and mats, collars, leashes, retractable leads, Nylabone® chews, a variety of toys, treats, doggie diapers, dog panties and pads, puppy training pads, a variety of odor eliminators, and a variety of litters www.drsfostersmith.com – cheapest prescription medicines for pets, Drs. Foster & Smith Piddle Pads®, Piddle Pad® Tray, Drs. Foster & Smith OxyQuick® and Drs. Foster & Smith CleanAway www.green-um.com – Green-um Tablets® www.jbpet.com - Second Nature® Dog Litter, crates (crate advice), retractable leads

Petco Stores or www.petco.com - cages and crates, crate mats and liners, pet doors, gates, dog beds and mats, collars, leashes, retractable leads, Nylabone® chews, a variety of toys, treats, doggie diapers, dog panties and pads, puppy training pads, a variety of odor eliminators, Second Nature® Dog Litter, litter pans

PetSmart Stores or www.petsmart.com – cages and crates, crate mats and liners, dog beds, pet doors, gates, collars, leashes, retractable leads, Nylabone® chews, a variety of toys, treats, doggie diapers, puppy training pads, Nature’s Miracle® Stain and Odor Remover, Feline Pine® and ExquisiCat® pine cat litters www.pets-megastore.com.au – Dog Rocks® - shipping comes from Australia, so will cost more than products in the U.S., so even though they have all kinds of stuff for dogs, purchase most of it closer to home

Various Helpful Pet Web Sites www.abka.com – the web site for the American Boarding Kennel Association - ABKA members offer a variety of services for your pet including grooming, training, pet transportation, shipping, pet supplies, food sales, etc. ABKA offers information and publications. www.apbc.org.uk – web site for the (United Kingdom) Association of Pet Behavior Counselors- an international network of experienced and qualified pet behavior counselors, who, on referral from veterinary surgeons, treat behavior problems in dogs, cats, birds, rabbits, horses and other pets. www.avma.org – web site for the American Veterinary Medical Association- the association representing more than 69,000 veterinarians working in private and corporate practice, government, industry, academia, and uniformed services. http://www.avma.org/communications/brochures/dog_owners.asp - brochures on issues

97 www.healthypet.com – the web site for the American Animal Hospital Association, which accredits animal hospitals – virtual tour of an accredited hospital, information on various conditions, vaccine guidelines www.holisticvetlist.com – a searchable database of vets offering holistic medicine techniques such as acupuncture, chiropractic, herbal remedies, and homeopathy www.petsitters.org – learn about or find a pet sitter www.vet.com – a compendium of various animal and pet resources www.vetinfo.com/indexpage.html or www.vetinfo4dogs.com/dogindex.html - a compendium of information about vets, medicines, diseases and disorders, and health maintenance of dogs www.vetquest.com – a listing of more than 25,000 veterinarian hospitals and clinics in the USA, Canada, and Europe

Glossary

Adolescent dog – in larger breeds, a dog of one year to three years and in small breeds, a dog of one year to two years

Agility – a timed set of events using specified pieces of equipment (which look like playground equipment but are designed for dogs) in a specific order called a course

Bay – a sound between a bark and a howl used by hunting dogs, can be very loud and prolonged and irritating

Bitch – a female dog, usually capable of producing puppies

Board – paying a kennel or vet to care for your dog during your absence

Bowel movement – poop, feces

“Business” – one of several possible words or phrases to teach your dog to get him to potty on command

Canine – the group of animals that includes dogs, wolves, foxes, and jackals

Choke collar – a nylon or chain link collar fitted to the dog’s neck in such a way as to apply tension when jerked and release that tension when not jerked

98 Chondrodysplasia – dwarfism

Coat – the fur of the dog – most dogs have an outer coat composed mainly of guard hairs and an undercoat which is the dense part of the coat

Smooth coat – a coat that is naturally short and lies close to the body

Double coat or Rough coat – a very heavy undercoat and a heavy outer coat

Wire coat – crisp, hard-textured coat

“Come” – the command to teach your dog to come to you – never use it to ask the dog to come to you for punishment

Companion Dog (C.D.) – an AKC designation based on a dog’s having won a particular number of points in each of a set number of AKC shows in Novice Obedience classes

Companion Dog Excellent (C.D.X.) - an AKC designation based on a dog’s having won a particular number of points in each of a set number of AKC shows in Open Obedience classes

Congenital – present at birth

Conformation – the form and structure of the dog – the arrangement of the parts of the dog and how they compare with the breed standard

Coprophagia – eating poop (the dog’s own poop or that of another animal)

Crate – a cage to put the dog in

Crop – to cut or trim an ear to make it conform to the breed standard

Crossbreed – a dog whose dam (mother) and sire (father) are of two different breeds – also known as a hybrid or designer dog

Dam – mother

Defecate – to poop, to have a bowel movement

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Designer Dog – a dog whose dam (mother) and sire (father) are of two different breeds – also known as a hybrid or crossbred dog

Dewclaw – an extra claw on the inside of the front leg and above the foot – in some breeds (poodle, for example) it is removed when puppies are about 4 weeks old

Disapproving voice – a disapproving voice usually goes down the scale at the end of the word or phrase (practice saying words like “naughty” or “no-o” in this way)

Dog show – an event held under the rules of a sanctioning body (such as the AKC) at which championship points are awarded. It may be for all breeds or for a single breed (Specialty Show). It will always include (showing against the breed standard) and may include Agility, Obedience, Field Trials, or other events like rally or flyball for judging.

Double coat or Rough coat – a very heavy undercoat and a heavy outer coat

“Down” – this is the command for lying down; do not use this command to mean ‘get off of furniture or people’ as it will be very confusing later

“Drop It” – a command to teach your dog to let go of whatever is in his mouth

Epilepsy – a medical condition that is displayed through repeated seizures – may be primary with no cause that can be found or can be secondary to another disease – a vet can test for causes and prescribe medication to help control the seizures

Fancier – a person involved in breeding and/or showing or judging a particular

Feces – poop, bowel movement

Fetch – the command to go get an item and return to the handler with it

Field Champion (Field Ch.) – a designation from the AKC for the dog defeating a specified number of dogs in a specified set of competitions at AKC field trials

Field Trials – a competition for certain Hound or Sporting Breeds in which dogs are judged on their ability and style (and speed) in either finding or retrieving certain game in the field, woods, or water

100 Fix – to spay a female or neuter a male

Flatulence – passing gas

“Floor” – a command to teach your dog to keep all four paws on the floor or ground

Flyball – an event in which a dog retrieves a ball and returns through a course that includes jumps – usually a team event with each dog and handler being timed, then all times for the team added together (faults and disqualifications subtracted)

Groom – to care for the dog’s well-being – includes coat care like bathing, brushing, trimming, clipping to make it neat or make it conform to breed standard – also usually includes brushing the teeth, cleaning the ears, and clipping the claws

Guard hairs – the longer hairs of the coat that are usually coarser and may give an overlay of another color

Gun dog – a dog trained to work with its master when he hunts and shoots game – usually a retrieving dog

Gun shy – fear of the sight or sound of a gun or of other loud noises like fireworks

Handler – a person who works with and shows a dog – owners can be handlers, but many pay a professional handler to show their dogs

Happy voice – commands given in a happy voice usually go up the scale at the end of the word or phrase (practice saying “good dog” or “what a good girl” in this way)

Harsh voice – a harsh voice usually is loud and commanding and lower on the scale than your normal voice – never use a harsh voice with a dog

Heat – the time period every six months that a female goes through an estrous cycle with bleeding, attracting males, and desiring to mate – the female is likely to become pregnant if mated during this 2-4 week period

Hip Dysplasia – a deterioration of the hip (ball and socket) joint of the hip common to larger breeds which causes pain – giving glucosamine chondroiton helps to keep the hip from deteriorating too quickly – good vet care is essential

Housebreak – an older term for housetrain – it was used to mean “break the dog of pottying in the house”

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Housetrain – teaching a dog not to potty in the house, but to potty (pee and poop) in an appropriate place (you have chosen)

“Hurry” – the command to teach your dog to potty quickly

Hybrid – a dog whose dam (mother) and sire (father) are of two different breeds – also known as a crossbred or designer dog

Inbreeding – the mating of closely related dogs of the same breed

Incontinence – dribbling urine or peeing wherever the dog is (unable to hold the urine until an appropriate time) Jowls – large, fleshy lips and jaws of some large and giant breeds like Shar-peis, Bernese Mountain Dogs

Kennel – another term for crate or cage; can also refer to a place where many dogs live or are boarded

“Leave It” – a command to teach your dog to leave things alone, to stop sniffing where he is sniffing, to let go of something in his mouth, to not pick up something

Litter – the puppies that were all born at the same time to the same parents

Liver – a very dark reddish brown to brown color

Mark – to urinate (pee) on something to identify it as ‘belonging to me’ or to tell another animal ‘I have been here’

Merle – a blue-gray color that contains flecks of black

Mongrel – a dog whose parents are of at least two breeds

Mottled – a color pattern of dark roundish blotches superimposed on a lighter background

Mutt – a dog whose parents are unknown

102 Muzzle – the head in front of the eyes (nose, mouth, jaws) – can also be used to refer to a piece of equipment used to keep the dog’s jaws and mouth closed – various types include cage muzzles and strap muzzles

Neuter – an operation, which makes a male dog unable to mate with a female to produce puppies

“No Jump” – this is a command you can teach your dog to mean ‘do not jump on people’

Obedience – a set of commands used to mean specific things

Obedience Trial – an event for showing how well your dog obeys obedience commands – if sanctioned by the AKC, the winners can earn “legs” toward a championship Obedience Trial Champion (O.T.Ch.) – a designation given by the AKC to a dog who has accrued a particular number of points and First Place finishes in a set number of Obedience Trials at AKC shows

“Off” – a command you can teach your dog to keep him from jumping on people or to tell him to get off of furniture

Pack – a group of dogs – also a group of people and dog(s) – or even, a person and dog

Pad – the tough, shock-absorbing parts of the dog’s foot – soles

Pedigree – a piece of paper which traces a dog’s lineage for 3-5 generations using the AKC-registered names and AKC-designations of all dams and sires – a pedigreed puppy can be registered with the AKC and shown in AKC shows

Pee – urinate, relieve himself or herself

Poop – defecate, have a bowel movement

Potty Place – the place you have chosen for your dog to go potty

Pound – a kennel where a “found” dog can be taken and held for a certain amount of time to see if it is claimed – another term for shelter

Progressive Retinal Atrophy (PRA) – a slow deterioration of the retina of the eye which can eventually lead to blindness

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Purebred or purebreed – a dog whose parents are both of the same breed for at least 3 generations – usually pedigreed

Rally – a timed event at a show in which dogs and handlers perform obedience commands on a course with small signs telling them what to do when

Roan – a fine mixture of colored and white hairs – blue roan is grayish blue with white – orange roan is reddish brown or reddish orange with white – lemon roan is yellow or tawny with white

Rough coat or Double coat – a very heavy undercoat and a heavy outer coat

Sable – an undercoat of yellow, lion, or tawny with guard hairs that are darker (brown, black or red), giving an overall appearance of brown to mahogany

Senior dog – large breed dogs over the age of 5 years and small breed dogs over the age of 7 years are considered senior dogs

Set up – see Stack

Sire – father

Smooth coat – a coat that is naturally short and lies close to the body

Spay – an operation that makes a female dog unable to produce eggs that can combine with a male dog’s sperm to produce puppies

“Speak” – a command to bark (usually to get a piece of food)

Stack – to pose a dog in a stand-stay position (at a conformation show) in such a way as to show off its breed’s best features – each breed has a particular way its “stack” is supposed to be done

Stay – the command to teach your dog to not move from the spot

Stud or Stud dog – a male dog used for breeding purposes – usually a male dog who has won many prizes for conformation and is now “retired” from showing – the fee for using a stud dog can vary but is usually “one puppy of the ensuing litter or the price of such puppy”

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Tracking Dog (T.D.) – an AKC designation for a dog that has passed an AKC tracking test – if dog is also a U.D., it is shown as U.D.T.

Tracking Dog Excellent (T.D.X.) – an AKC designation for a dog that has passed an AKC tracking excellent test - if dog is also a U.D., it is shown as U.D.T.X. Urinate – pee

Utility Dog (U.D.) – an AKC designation as a result of winning certain minimum scores in Utility classes at AKC obedience shows – if a dog is also a T.D. or T.D.X. it is shown as U.D.T. or U.D.T.X. respectively

Wheaten – colored like wheat – pale yellow or fawn Whelp – to give birth

Wirehair – a hard, crisp, wiry coat

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