Culture

Dundee Jute, Jam and Journalism Words and photos by Tom Langlands

Standing on top of the Law, it is easy to see why Iron Age settlers chose to build a fort on the summit of this extinct volcano. The vista is extensive. From the berry fields of the Carse of Gowrie to the west, the comes into view, shimmering as it glides under the rail and road bridges connecting Tayside with the ancient Kingdom of Fife, before slipping peacefully past Broughty Ferry Castle and flowing into the North Sea. Behind me, white clouds caress the undulating ridge of the Sidlaws while, below me, as if born from the lava that once flowed from where I stand, lies ’s fourth largest city, .

The city has transcended its maritime origins and overcome the of jute, fed Mrs Keillor’s jam and enlightened by the journalism loss of many of its beautiful heritage buildings in the 1960s. A £1 of D.C. Thomson & Co. Ltd. Those industries of jute, jam and billion redevelopment of Dundee’s waterfront is underway. This journalism were responsible for Dundee’s “3Js” nomenclature but will reconnect the city with its river and the jewel in the crown will of those, only journalism remains today. I developed an interest be a £45 million Victoria and Albert Museum (V&A), the world’s in architecture, possibly on account of watching so much of the greatest museum of art and design. This will be the first of its city’s historic core demolished in the name of progress. Within kind to be built in the UK outside London. a few short years around the 1960s, the Designed by the highly acclaimed Overgate, Wellgate, Murraygate and Japanese architect Kengo Kuma, the Princes Street, defined by fine sandstone building’s site is on the riverfront directly buildings and associated customs, adjacent to RRS Discovery. Opening to culture and memories, were eradicated the public in 2017, the new museum will or altered beyond recognition. Residents be more than just an exhibition centre. In were relocated to peripheral estates or the true spirit of modern Dundee, it will rehoused in new multi-storey blocks. This provide a cutting-edge environment for was the age of architectural brutalism. research, discovery and learning. Flyovers connected concrete boxes and In recent years this has become a people were secondary to cars. city that has led the world in medical I realize now that those were the research through its Wellcome Trust years when the city wanted to redefine Biocentre, and in technology and digital itself and move on. Dundee has a strong media, resulting in the creation of Grand maritime history and it seemed as if new Theft Auto, one of the world’s largest sails were being unfurled but they did not game franchises, among other things. billow in any particular direction. Dundee Today, Dundee leads the world in so was in the doldrums. many different and diverse spheres and During the 19th century, Dundee’s has now been rebranded One City, Many whaling industry was world-renowned Discoveries. and the local boat building yards had It wasn’t always this way. This is the considerable experience of constructing city of my birth. Growing up in Dundee in RRS Discovery ships that could operate in harsh, rough the 60s and 70s I was clothed in its history seas. When the Royal Geographical

36 August, 2014 Society decided to undertake the first areas, including life and medical sciences, that the city enjoys a broad employment ever scientific study of Antarctica, Dundee civil engineering, art and design, history skills base. “There is no single dominant was given the task of building the ship and anatomy, and forensic identification employment sector and Dundee has a that would take Robert Falcon Scott on among others. “The breadth of the significant presence of manufacturing, his pioneering journey to that remote, university enables researchers to work life sciences, digital media, education and unexplored corner of the planet. RRS collaboratively and bring new insights healthcare with major employers such Discovery was launched in 1901. She took to some of the biggest issues facing the as Michelin Tyre, NCR, Tesco, British her crew through the dangerous southern world today,” Downes says. Telecom and Tayside Health Board.” oceans only to become trapped for two Downes also acknowledges the As Dundee’s universities and years in Antarctica’s pack ice before importance of the University’s Wellcome businesses expanded so did its cultural delivering them home. Her pioneering Trust Biocentre which opened in 1997. side. Dundee Repertory opened mission and the resilience of her “Tens of millions of pounds have been its purpose-built award-winning facilities construction was testament to the spirit invested to create state-of-the-art facilities near to Dundee University in 1982, but it and fortitude of those who built her. for our globally renowned College of Life was during the 90s it became recognized If there was a defining moment Sciences at the Wellcome Trust Building, as a major force in theatre with its own when the winds of fortune gave Dundee Sir James Black Centre and Centre internationally acclaimed permanent both direction and impetus, it was April for Translational and Interdisciplinary company of actors creating new works 3, 1986, when Dundee Heritage Trust Research. This complex houses almost and performing across the globe from brought Discovery back Iran to Mexico and Japan. to the waters of the Tay. Sunshine on Leith, featuring By 1992, Discovery was the music of The Proclaimers relocated to a purpose-built and subsequently made into dock with an adjacent visitor a film, is just one creation of interpretation centre and, in Dundee Rep Ensemble. a stroke of marketing genius, In 1999, the Dundee Dundee was rebranded Contemporary Arts (DCA) “City of Discovery.” From arts centre opened. Duncan then on there was an air of of Jordanstone College of confidence about the future Art and Design, a school of of Dundee, both from its Dundee University, includes own residents and also from a Visual Research Centre incoming investors. based at DCA. It is home to Despite the difficult years research staff and doctoral of the 60s and 70s, Dundee students from design, art and remains an attractive city. The McManus Dundee Art Gallery and Museum media disciplines. One legacy of the jute years All that Dundee were the many parks gifted achieved throughout the 90s to the city. These came from wealthy 1,000 scientists from around the world would have been the envy of many mod- jute barons trying to outdo each other working on new insights, therapies and ern cities, but the story is far from over as in the benefactor stakes and perhaps cures for cancer, diabetes, cardiovascular evidenced by the new museum and world- salving their consciences for the working disease and neglected tropical diseases.” class research centre currently under and living conditions they inflicted upon Dundee’s other university, Abertay, construction. I no longer live in Dundee, their workforces. The result is a green, has acquired a reputation as a leader in but I take great pride in the enormity of its attractive city. It also enjoys a prime computer-games technology and digital achievements since the days of jute, jam location between sea and countryside media and was the world’s first university and journalism. These things, which were that contributes greatly to Dundee’s to offer a degree in computer games. Not all products of the city’s spirit of innova- burgeoning tourism sector and appeals to many people realize that Lemmings and tion and discovery, made Dundee world students and academics as a place to live Grand Theft Auto were created in Dundee. famous. and study. Unsurprisingly, the city is now home to a In acknowledgement, I gaze over Dundee has a population of 148,000 and host of gaming software companies. to RRS Discovery, doff my cap to the two universities with a combined student Stan Ure is Head of Economic Devel- city’s infamous bard, William Topaz population of 22,000. Dundee University opment at Dundee City Council and is well McGonagall, and from the top of the Law has more than doubled in size since the aware of the importance of Abertay Uni- I proudly proclaim, “The Tay, the Tay, the mid-1990s and in 2008 completed a £200 versity’s contribution to the city’s develop- silvery Tay will soon flow from Perth to million campus redevelopment project. ment. “Dundee continues to punch well the V & A.” The latter has played a major part in the above its weight in computer and digital regeneration of the city. Professor Pete gaming and now has a legacy of 30 years Thanks to Professor Pete Downes, Dundee Downes, Principal and Vice-Chancellor of of games development with many of the University, and Stan Ure, Dundee City Dundee University, is at the helm of this pioneers of the industry now leading our Council. internationally recognized and acclaimed key games developers.” www.tomlanglandsphotography.com institution. He says the university boasts Ure is equally aware of the importance world-leading expertise in a number of of Dundee’s other businesses and the fact celticlife.com 37