ITALIAN CHRISTMAS COOKIES with Domenica Cooks

Giuggiulena: Sicilian Brittle

The Arab conquest of Sicily in the 9th century A.D. had a lasting impact on the region’s food. This Sicilian brittle, also known as cubbaita, is a great example; honey, sesame seeds, and oranges were all introduced to the southern part of the Italian peninsula during the 75-year Arab reign. The confection’s name, giuggiulena, is Sicilian dialect for sesame seed, the star ingredient. Also popular in Calabria, giuggiulena is traditionally enjoyed for the Feast of the Epiphany on January 6.

This recipe requires careful attention and some agility. It’s important not to overcook the honey mixture. Once ready, the must be dumped on a wet or non-stick surface, quickly rolled out, and then cut, as it cools quickly. Have a non-stick heat-proof spatula and a rolling pin handy. A marble or granite surface, or a Silpat mat work well here but an oiled piece of parchment or baking sheet works, too. It’s a somewhat messy process, but well worth the effort and sticky surfaces.

Makes 40 to 50 pieces

INGREDIENTS 1/2 cup (200 g) honey (I use orange blossom or wildflower) 1/4 cup (50 g) 1 1/3 cups (188 g) sesame seeds 1/3 cup (65 g) (raw or dry-roasted) Finely grated zest of 1 organic orange, plus half the orange 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon Vegetable oil or , for coating the work surface Sprinkles, for decoration

INSTRUCTIONS 1. Measure the honey into a heavy-bottomed saucepan and stir in the sugar. Set the pan over medium to medium-high heat and stir until the sugar is dissolved. As soon as the liquid starts to bubble, dump in the sesame seeds. Cook, stirring often, for about 10 minutes, until the mixture is a shade darker. Stir in the almonds and cook another 10 minutes, until the sesame seeds are golden and the syrup is quite brown.

2. While the sesame mixture is cooking, prepare the work area: Wet a marble or granite surface with water; or place a Silpat mat or a piece of parchment onto a baking sheet. If using parchment, coat it lightly with oil or butter.

3. When the sesame mixture is ready, remove it from the heat and stir in the orange zest and cinnamon. Pour it onto the prepared surface, taking care not to burn yourself. Use the spatula or a moistened rolling pin to spread the mixture to a thickness of about 3/8 inch (1 cm). You may need to scrape sesame seeds and seeds off the rolling pin as you go. Just work them back into the brittle.

4. Cut the orange in half and rub one half, cut-side-down, over the surface of the brittle. Lightly scatter sprinkles on top. Using a sharp knife, cut the giuggiulena into 2-inch diamonds. Once cool, store in an air-tight container in layers separated by wax paper or parchment.