UK BLOG: SUMMER 2014 James Brendlinger
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UK BLOG: SUMMER 2014 James Brendlinger LONDON: JULY 12, 2014 I arrived at Gatwick Airport yesterday around 11:30am, but was detained for a couple hours because the border guard didn’t think my paperwork from The Globe looked very official (?!?) and wouldn’t let me into the UK until she got someone at The Globe on the phone. A couple of hours later I exchanged my dollars for pounds (which was demoralizing—I felt rich with my fistful of dollars but I feel poor with my polite stack of twenty pound notes.) Then I got on a train that took me to London Bridge. I have to say, the train ride was not scenic—I think I expected a bit too much thanks to those Harry Potter movies. I walked with my luggage from the station to Southwark, something I will never do again--the streets were crowded and my suitcases heavy. We are staying at Bankside House, a dormitory for the London School of Economics which functions as a bed-and-breakfast during the summer months. Once I had my room for the night, I slept for a few hours, then took the short walk to the waterfront and saw The Globe Theatre for the first time. It is very beautiful, but I chose not to go inside because I have friends joining me tomorrow night and I think it will be better to all experience that together. I had dinner at the Porky’s BBQ right next to the theater and afterward I realized that the things I thought were 50 pence are actually two pound coins. So the waitress is probably going to marry me because I gave her a pretty unnecessary tip. LONDON: JULY 13, 2014 Breakfast is served cafeteria style. The front desk made a big deal about being careful not to lose my ID card for breakfast, but no one checked for it while I was dining. Guests may have six items from the line for breakfast, so I had an apple, scrambled eggs, bacon, a croissant, fried bread, and hash browns. The portions were enormous and the food was good. I already knew that British bacon is more like what we would call ham, but it was delicious. The variety of British accents in the dining hall made me realize that every bad attempt at an accent that my students have ever done in class is probably an existing accent after all. I’ll be nicer about it in the future. At least one of the guys at my table sounded exactly like Christopher Guest trying to imitate Henry Higgins in WAITING FOR GUFFMAN. A lot of girls here look like Billie Piper. I walked to St. Paul’s and back, crossing the Millennium Bridge each way. It was about 8am on a Sunday, and I didn’t pass anyone on the bridge going in either direction, which I thought was strange. After that, I had to move out of my temporary room at Bankside House and wait for my permanent room to be made ready. After stowing my luggage in their storage room, I went for a long walk along the river. By now there were crowds, which was more what I was expecting. I bought a ticket for a clipper that goes up and down the Thames—and once again, no one checked my ticket getting on or off the boat, and it only lists a date and not a time so I might take another ride tonight. The ride was great. It was not a tourism boat, so there was no official narration, but these businessmen who work in the shipping industry were seated next to me and one of them pointed out a lot of really cool things. I had my headphones on but I turned the music off so that I could hear all of it. We went past Greenwich and then turned around and came back—I was on the boat for two hours. After that I had lunch at Vappiano’s (margherita pizza) and read the rest of STILL LIFE WITH WOODPECKER which I had started reading while I was detained at the airport yesterday. I moved into my new room, which overlooks the forecourt of Bankside House. I have to share a bathroom with the room next door, but the room is set up pretty well and I’m hoping not to spend much time in it anyway. Kristen Wheeler lent me her electrical outlet converters so I’m able to charge my laptop, phone and iPod. Internet is free in the hotel and at The Globe. I’m taking a nap soon because I’m still screwed up time-wise. Tonight I’m hoping to walk to a grocery store and maybe take that boat ride again. Tomorrow we start at The Globe :) LONDON: JULY 14, 2014 Last night I met up with the other two Central Florida teachers who are here, Krystin Beavers and Kristina Thompson, and we walked down to the river to find a restaurant for dinner. We chose Founders Arms by the Millennium Bridge, and I would say we had a perfect experience---I had a steak with roasted cherry tomatoes and a cup of salt-and-vinegar fries, and our table was on the patio with an unobstructed view of the entire river bend and St. Paul’s Cathedral. The weather was ideal for eating outdoors. Afterward we crossed the bridge and explored the grounds of St. Paul’s. I wanted to know what’s in the basement of a place like that. Out back we found The Bowler Hat, a small (inflatable?) theater which is taking part in the City of London Festival. This Wednesday night they are presenting a former Edinburgh Fringe show called THE ONLY WAY IS DOWNTON, so of course I bought a ticket. We found a Subway (not the tube—a Subway sandwich shop) so I’m glad to have a less expensive meal alternative. We saw some buskers, but none that grabbed my interest enough to stop and listen. There is also a small Tesco by the Blackfriars Bridge, so I bought some snacks and bottled water to put in my bag while working at The Globe. Lake Howell High School has conditioned me to expect lunch at 10:30am, so I’ll need some help getting through the morning. Today was just one of the best days of my life. It’s also my sister’s fiftieth birthday, so I wish I could have been home to celebrate that with her, but I know she understands. I met the girls for breakfast this morning, and afterward we met several more people who will be at The Globe with us this summer and we all went for a walk around St. Paul’s Cathedral. The basement, by the way, is full of tombs. The weather was just perfect all day. When our walk was done, we went to The Globe and gathered with the rest of the crew. There are 25 of us in total. The first half hour reminded me a bit of the opening of a season of SURVIVOR because it’s just a bunch of random people thrown together. We did not vote anyone off the island. The team at The Globe is extremely good at what they do—I usually hate ice-breakers, name games, team building activities, and (frankly) not being in charge, but I just had so much fun all morning getting to know everybody and I feel like I made some friends that I’ll keep for good. Everyone is really enthusiastic about what we are doing here. I made a point to sit down with different people at every juncture of the day and I’m so glad I did. I don’t want to get too lengthy or no one will read this. I’m sure I’ll write about all the instructors and the new friends I’m making in other entries. For now, everyone is beautiful and no one punched me or anything except for Jeniene and it was an accident all three times. In the morning Jo Howarth took us into the theatre for the first time, and I’m honestly not sure which I’m more enthusiastic about—seeing The Globe for the first time, or being instructed by Jo Howarth. She has been with the theater since before they opened in 1996, and directed a famous production of MUCH ADO ABOUT NOTHING. She is everything you’d want a Shakespearean actress, director, and educator to be. I could listen to her incredible projection and enunciation all day. (Well, I mean, I did exactly that.) As for the theater itself—one of the other guys in the group said it best—this is a childhood dream coming true for all of us. I’m not sure I’ve ever been in such a large group of people who so specifically care about something that I’m passionate about—except maybe that time I was in the front row at the Heart concert and Ann Wilson held my hand all through the opening to “Magic Man,” but that’s a different journal entirely. That’s why instead of going back to my room to sleep like I was thinking about doing all afternoon, I joined the others when they went to the pub tonight. We sat in an upper room at The George and I got to sit in an open window overlooking the crowded patio and listen to all my new friends telling stories while I drank my mango juice.