Saratoga Springs

By LoUIS McHENRY HowE

ARATOGA SPRINGS has able. The old chiefs tramped the S been the most famous summer four-mile trail by way of morning resort of America since five constitutional to High Rock Spring, hundred years before the birth of then known as "The Healing Christ. For twenty-five centuries Waters," whose discovery forms this green plateau, nestling between one of the most beautiful legends of the arms of the mighty Adirondacks the Iroquois. that stretch out southward on either The chronology of a nation with­ side to protect it from too biting out monuments and without written winds, from east or west, has been history, is, of course, a matter of the Mecca of tired bodies and fagged conjecture. Indeed, the date of the minds. This may seem a rather founding of the Iroquois Confedera­ startling statement to make con­ tion, which is here quoted at 500 B. cerning a town whose charter c., is merely that given by the In­ dates back only eighty-six years; dians themselves. Scientific stu­ yet there is no legend of the once dents have sought to place it, taking mighty Iroquois Confederation that the legend of an eclipse as their anticipates the time when the Kaya­ starting point, at about 1451 A. D. derosseras was the nearest earthly But be that as it may, no better evi­ ideal of the happy hunting ground, dence of the countless generations and Indian historians claim five of Indian visitors to Saratoga could hundred B. C. as the date of the be found than the fact that on one founding of the great Indian Repub­ of these high bluffs surrounding lic of the Five Nations. Saratoga Lake, which is now the It was to Saratoga in those long­ site of a famous road house, known forgotten, prehistoric springtimes, to all summer visitors as "Arrow­ when the Hudson tore apart its ice head," the ground, although plowed fetters and thrust them down into each spring for a hundred years, the sea, that the bravest and the will still reward a five minutes' feeblest alike of the haughty Iro­ search by the find of a half dozen quois tribe, abandoning their winter perfect arrowheads. Thousands have tepees, made their way over trails been taken away by curious visitors, so firmly trodden down that the thousands apparently yet remain, visitor to-day may trace them, and still the space in which they sometimes, for miles through the have lain is barely three acres in forests surrounding Saratoga. extent. By the time of the planting of the What, it may well be asked, has maize, the high bluffs overlooking been the magnet that has drawn Saratoga Lake were dotted with man to this spot since earliest summter wigwams. The young time? The proud Iroquois, tread­ braves found here game innumer- ing with light moccasin the forest 471

Digitized by Google 472 NEW ENGLAND MAGAZINE trail, would have answered: "Game! plague that was devastating the for so many stately bucks and sleek­ tribe. Science has given a number sided does, fierce wolves and fiercer of theories as to the origin of these panthers, never elsewhere did In­ springs, far less romantic, and so aian see." widely differing from one another "Society," would have been the that any true lover of romance is reply of the famous beauty, Betty well justified in declining to believe Holcomb, travelling to the Spa by any of them, and accepting instead easy stage coach, from far Virginia, the Indian version. crowds assembling at each post It is claimed by reputable au­ station to catch a glimpse of her thority, that Saratoga is built on lovely face. the oldest land of this continent, "The finest racjng in the world," perhaps the oldest in the world. Out would answer the gentleman sports­ of the great primeval sea the huge man of to-day, leaning luxuriously giants of the Laurentian range were lIack in his private car as it tears the first to rear their craggy heads. across the miles that lie between Right on their shore line lay the \Vall Street and the Saratoga Race future Saratoga. Indeed, the visitor Track. All of these answers would of to-day may remove the wind­ have been right so far as they went, blown sand-speck from his eye with IIttt the root of the matter would the consoling knowledge that he has Dot be there, for the last analysis of been made miserable by a bit of Saratoga's greatness will show that what was, perhaps the first sea­ the foundations of her fame lie in beach in the world's history. frer wonderful mineral springs. \Vhen the Laurentian range up­ The history of Saratoga Springs heaved itself from the ocean bed, reads thus: The wild deer Clme, something had to give way, and as licked eagerly the salty springs and a matter of fact, the whole under­ came in ever increasing throngs lying strata of the sea bed was lifted zgain. Pursuing the deer, followed and tilted several hundred feet the Iroquois. Likewise finding the above the surrounding sea. springs pleasant to taste, and heal­ According to one theory, where ing of body. they also came again. Saratoga now stands along the Then the white man, pursuing the edge of this "fault" in the strat", Iroquois. learned the secret of the some of the old Silurian ocean by waters and. with his fellows re­ some freak of nature, was im­ turned again. The first visitors of prisoned, and Saratoga is exporting our own race were seekers after to-day bottles full of this same pre­ lIealth. then followed fashion, and historic sea, after fashion, wealth, until to-day According to another theory, the two hundred thousand people count sub-drainage of the Laurentian a visit to the Springs a necessity of range, flowing along the underlying the summer season. strata as through some huge water According to the Iroquois, the main, is stopped short in its course, springs of Saratoga were created in clnd effectually dammed up by tht: answer to the prayer of a despairing "fault" at Saratoga. Both of these Mohawk chief seeking a cure for theories are at fault. If Saratoga's ~s beloved, who lay dying from a springs are merely veins of water

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that have become impregnated with apart, show totalIy different min­ various salts from the decomposing erals in their composition l rocks through whuse veins thev Be this as it may, it is certain flow they do not account for thos'e that the springs are there; also • greaL pockets of natural carbonic that there is no likeliho09 of their acid' gas at the southern end of the giving out. Indeed new springs town so large in extent that of late are discovered frequently. Only years huge gasometers have been last year, when boring for water to erected, and the gas, under a pres­ supply the boilers at the Strong San­ sure of two thousand pounds to the itarium on the crest of the hill over-

BROADWAY IN JULY

square inch, is being shipped away looking the narrow valIey, where all in steel cylinders, by the Natural the previous springs have been Carbonic Acid Gas Company, for found, water was indeed discovered, the use of soda water fountains all at a depth of four hundred feet, but over the w6rld. (Carbonic gas as not such as any self-respecting well as its water is also shipped by boiler would think of swallowing, the Lincoln Spring in large quanti­ so heavily was it charged with min­ ties.) Again, if Saratoga lies over erals and carbonic acid gas; and in a reservoir of the old sea, why do consequence a new mineral spring two springs, not . a hundred feet was added to the list. Saratoga's

Digitized by Goog Ie ENTRANCE TO WOODLAWN PARK temporary and more widely adver­ center the water bubbled up, as tised attractions will doubtles!> from the crater of a miniature vol­ change in the future as they have in cano. Johnson stayed a few days, the past, to meet the fickle fashions so far recovered as to be able to of the hour. But, as has been said, walk back to Schenectady, and the first visitor to Saratoga came to promptly published the marvellouli drink the water, and the last will qualities of the waters abroad. doubtless be there for the same pur­ Saratoga did not wait long for pose, in the uncounted ages to other distinguished visitors. In come. 1783, George Washington, accom­ In 1767, the Mohawks determined panied by Alexander Hamilton and in solemn council to reveal to Sir Governor George Clinton, visited 'William Johnson, who was suffering the Spring. Washington was so from a wound received in the battle favorably impressed with its virtues of Lake George, the wonderful heal­ that he made inquiries with a view ing powers of the High Rock. Tak­ to acquiring the land and building ing their "beloved brother" (this thereon a summer home, although was more than a figure of speech at that time the spring lay in the for Johnson married Mol1ie Brant, sister of the famous Indian warrior) heart of the wilderness, and one log on a litter, they carried him about hut sheltered all the inhabitants of twenty miles north of Schenectady. the place. From this time on the Here he found a curious formation rise of the town was very rapid. where a spring, heavily charged and by 1815, it had been visited by with minerals, had built up a cone upwards of two thousand persons. of tufa around itself, from whose Just a good day's business of to-day, 474

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but a wonderful record for those ject, as compared to the fashionable times. whirl of gaiety so keenly summed From this period the growth of up by Saxe in his famous poem, Saratoga advanced by leaps and "And that's what they do at the bounds. In 1819, the town of Springs." Saratoga Springs was Il1corporated. Joseph Bonaparte was numbered In 1831, the second constructed amongst the early visitors and re­ railroad in the United States was vived Washington's idea of buying extended to Saratoga Springs, and the land for a great country place, proved so profitable that the direc­ but found it too expensive to pur­ tors paid ten per cent. dividends the chase. Gideon Putnam, an early second year. Traveling was more settler and large land owner, leisurely in those days, and as late erected the first hotel in 1802, and as 1860, the departure of a train wa:. with rare public spirit so laid out signaled by the ringing of a bell the land in streets that the springs in the cupola of the little station. were to be reserved perpetually as half an hour before leaving, which public property. Vnfortunately, at enabled intending travelers to make his death, his plans were not carried their farewells and stroll down ttl out, and it is only lately that the the cars in plenty of time, or even if wisdom of a single ownership for a little late. there was no hurry, the all the springs has become so ap­ train would wait. parent that actual steps have been ily 1870, almost every person of taken towards its consummation. prominence in society, politics, re­ Such, briefly, is the history of Sar­ ligion or finance, had visited Sara­ atoga Springs. toga, and the drinking of the water The town of to-day bears little had already become a secondary ob- resemblance to the old center of the

Digitized by Goog Ie NEW ENGLAND MAGAZINE fashionable summer world, when every hOllse opens hospitable doors low wooden buildings loomed large to receive twice as many more. as palatial hostelries, and when the All during ~Iav, the inhabitants belles and beaux rode on horseback of what is tl~en a-quiet, pretty little through primeval forests to the village, boasting not over fifteen Lake or the more distant battle­ thousand inhabitants. have been ground of Saratoga. To-day. the making ready. By the tirst of June, three great brick hotels upon the whole village. spick and span Broadway, great, even in these days with new paint, with well-swept and of big things, accommodate five graded streets, sits expectantly to greet the coming guests. Silently, quietiy, almost unnoticed they slip in - wise old-timers. who have learned that] une is the most beau­ tiful month of the year at Saratoga, except possibly September. The small hotels now throw open their doors; on North Broadway the early comers fill the piazzas of the Ver­ n~ont House and the Brooklyn, and each of the innumerable boarding houses boasts a guest or two. They arc a quiet, health-seek­ ing. rest-seeking folk. these early comers, drinking in the wonderful air that sweeps down pure and fresh from the Adirondack balsam forests and sets the nerves tingling with new-born life: driving perhaps to the not-far hattle-groun<1 of Sara­ toga, and the fiel<1 where distraught Burgoyne gave up his sword and lost an empire for his country: climbing curiously up into the tall granite shaft that marks this spot, and thinking with pitying feelings A SARATO(;A STREET of a brave man gone wrong as they look at the .empty niche which pro­ thousand guests. X carby is found claims both the patriotism and the the popular American-Adelphi Hotel treachery of Benedict Arnold. Or of generous capacity. Crowning the hill at the southern end of the else, if this has all been seen before, same street, a half dozen smaller they are taking long walks after the houses, including the well-known rare painted-moccasin plants that, New Columbian. the Heustis House in common with all wild flowers, and the Linwood. hold two thous­ grow so bountifully in this garden and guests, while altogether the spot. The younger folk begin to hotels accommodate twenty thol1~­ throng- the golf links and fill the and each August day. and almost tennis courts.

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The summer cottager, a type of of dollars have been spent by the recent years, arrives, and putting owners of these mammoth hotels his Lares and Penates in due order, since the preceding year in order to settles down like the early arri\'al keep up with the ever-increasing ctt­ at the play, to await the never fail­ mand for more luxurious surround­ ing spectacle of the American idea ings made by the travelling public. of "resting," as exhibited by the A u­ . On Congress Hall, one of the best­ gust crowds. A convention or two known of thc trio to visitors' from arrives and fills the main streets for New England. over $25,000 has a day or so with much-beribboned been expended this spring in addi­ members who stream like ants into tional bathrooms and open plumb­ the Convention Hall every day, and ing as well as electric light in office. swarm out again a few hours later parlors and dining room alone, and

YADDO, COVNTRY SEAT OF SPENCD TRASK like a hive of buzzing bees. The in the fall the new proprietors e~­ road houses at the Lake entertain pect to spcnd twice as much more. parties of fishermen, for there are "Cottage Row" at the United States bass, genuine small-mouthed black Hotel, which is not composed of cot­ bass in Saratoga Lake wort.h coming tages at all, but merely individual miles to feel at the end of a supple suites in a long wing, now en­ rod. As July approaches, the great tertains an early millionaire or hotels strip off their winter gar. two who has run up to clear the ments, and . before the last of the \Vall Street cobwebs from his small army of house cleaners has brain. The great men ill the turE wrung her mop, the first visitor world-Keene, Belmont, Hitchcock. greets the smiling clerk. Thousands \Vhitney-pay hurried visits to

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their ~tring-s oi th"roug-hbred~. each great hali-comedy. half-tragedy that worth a king'~ ransom. which are is to come. There are the long trains being- trained illr the stakes. that of Palace horse-cars-your modern will later he C'onksted here. :\t the thoroughbred must needs travel in Grand Cnion Hotel. \'ictor Herbert. Equine Pullmans now-a-days-un­ with no ordinary summer orchestra. loading their freight each morning; but a special band oi fifty trained and there is the famous stable musicians. begins his concl'rts. and of John Sanford. thorough-going the ('mpty ~eats on the broad piazzas sportsman. who races like an old­ grow fewer each day. So gradual time English squire, walks his has been the increase in the crowds horses o\'{'r-land from Amsterdam, that one can hardly realize that the disdaining cars of any kind. and town has tripled its population. parades down Broadway, accom­ Then. suddl'nly. the first of panied by a small army of stable August comes. For two days pre­ boys. Groups of famous trainers vious, a curious Cluiet has settled are early on the ground; the faces down upon the town. It is as if of famous jockeys commanding e\'ery one had stopped to draw a princely salaries are seen at the pa­ good long breath before plunging latial Saratoga Bath House where, into the exciting days to follow. bY numerous visits to the hot cham­ The old \'isitor notes with silent b~r of the Turkish Bathroom, they satisfaction the preliminaries of the reduce their weight, (this bath house ''is

Digitized by Coogle SARATOGA SPRINGS 479 being, strangely enough, the only later a seemingly endless train of place worthy the name where the Pullmans draws in. Before it is virtues of Saratoga's springs can be stopped, the sidewalks are black tried externally as well as inter­ with people, scurrying ahead to get nally); and there is a general bu~, the best rooms not engaged. There tling about the race track. These is a sound like an approaching the old visitor sniffs like the battle charge of cavalry, and, racing three from afar, but to the stranger, the abreast, the vanguard of hotel first of August brings with it a won­ 'buses sweeps wildly down the derful surprise, If he is lucky street, each loaded with human enough to have a friend who knows freight that clings to the steps or the proper thing to do upon this sits upon the top. Back again they erentful day, he joins the crowd rush for still other loads, The side­ upon the piazza of the United States walks become impassable, and still or the \Vorden Hotels where he' can section after section pulls into the command a view of the short, wide station to disgorge yet more. There street leading from Broadway to is nothing like it anywhere else in the station. the world, this day before the races Fi\'e minutes before the arrival of at Saratoga Springs. They are all the first "racing special" from New well-dressed, this Saratoga racini,; York, the street is deserted, save by crowd; there is no place here for the a belated 'bus or two, careering cheap sport or the tin-horn gambler, madlv toward the station lest it be and the poorest of the lot could la'te,' Then there is heard the doubtless dig down into his trousers whistle of the engine and a minute pocket, and produce a roll, Which in

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Digitized by Goog Ie S.\R.\T"GA J.\KE the picturesque parlance of the ring down Broadway thev marched, "would choke a cow. ·· ' with colors Aying., into -the yawning By the time the last straggler has portals of the Grand Union Hotel rushed down the street, it seems to and-disappeared-wipell out; save the uninitiated onlooker, as if for a Tammany badge here and Broadway must he blocked by the there amongst the crowd, they were crowd and every hotel full to over­ absolutely lost. The idea was splen­ Aowing. Yet by the time he de­ didly planned, but the Tammany ",cends the piazza steps, the crowd leaders forgot the town's digestive has disappeared, swallowed up by power, and as an impressive effect the town, as a dry sponge soaks up it was a Aat failure. water. There is nothing stranger On the night of this memorable than this apparently unlimited ca­ first of August, howl'ver, the new pacity of Saratoga to absorb people. arrivals are very much in evidence. During the Democratic State con­ The cry of the newsboys selling the vention last fal1, twenty-five hun­ late racing editions of the New dred Tammany braves marched York papers brings them out into down from the station with bands the streets like magic. .-\round the playing, and bearing no mean re­ entries posted in the hotel lobbies. semblance to an invaUlIlg army. III a constantly changing throng dis­ fact they were intended to impress cusses the merits of the horses. the up-state delegates with the Famous bookmakers in secluded power of Tammany Hall. Straight corners receive the reports of their 480

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track watchers, who for a week or thoroughfare leading to the Racing more have been on hand, watching Association grounds, is filled with work-outs and gleaning stable in­ madly tearing vehicles, intent on formation. Hundreds of thousands making the' greatest possible num­ of dollars, and the making or break­ ber of trips before the races start. ing of many a man to-morrow hang Outside the grounds, is an army on these whispered conferences. of men and boys who have man­ At ten o'clock nine-tenths of the aged, by hanging on the brake crowd has gone to bed. As a place beams, by occupying empty freight to sleep, not to toss from side to cars, by a hundred and one methods side, but really to sleep, Saratoga known to themselves, to reach Sara­ has yet to find her equal. Early the toga in time for the opening race next morning the Springs arc day, and are selling that latest form crowded with new faces. There is of the gold brick, racing tips. I t is no enthusiast equal to your racing hard to believe that so transparent man as a boomer of the virtues of a fraud sholll-:l meet with success, Saratoga waters. An hour before the races long omnibuses, surreys, but to the writer's personal knowl­ coaches, and all manner of rigs, edge, one of these tip-sellers, who draw up by the side of Congress . walked the last twenty miles to Hall to catch the early comer. It ~aratoga, because of a hard­ is a full mile to the race track. and hearted freight conductor, averaged for the most part the horses take it fifty dollars a day for the twenty­ on a run. Union Avenue, the hroad two racing days, with no other capi-

f ESI ENCE CF G. M. CRIPPEN

Digitized by Goog Ie GRAND STASD SARATOGA RACE TRACK tal than a lead pencil and a pursua­ among them. This process was re­ sive tongue. peated over and over, the number His method was so ingenious as of his clients growing of course less, to deserve description. Picking but on account of his tips proving each day the four best horses in the invariably winners, he obtained each race having the fewest entries, he day greatly increased prices. One would roughly divide the crowd in­ man who was in the lucky division to four classes: wearers of straw for ten days paid him over three hats, soft, hats, derby hats and of hundred dollars for "inside infor­ season badges. To all members of mation," as in the meanwhile, he the first class, he would sell one was taking a different race and do­ horse. to all of the second another, ing the same thing over again with and so on. One of the four would. a different set of people. It can be in all probability, win. The next seen that fifty dollars was not a day he would unload another large sum to average. The joke of horse on say the straw hat it all was that on the last day of the contingent, or whatever division races, the tipster received some had received the winner the day be­ genuine inside information from a fore. This was easy, as the tip they stable hand, resolved to become a had received the previous day had second Pittsburgh Phil, plunged to won. The clever part of his plan the full extent of his profits, and was this : he would subdivide the went back to New York with fifty straw hats into four classes again, cents in his pocket. relying on his good memory for Inside the gates a beautiful pine faces and divide fO,lr more horses grove intervenes between the en- 41\2

Digitized by Goog Ie SARATOGA SPRINGS trance and the Grand Stand; to the will compensate for many a Wall right, amid the cool shadows of the Street error. August Bel m 0 n t old for est monarchs lies the strokes the que e n I y Beldame' s covered saddling paddock. They glossy flanks: Sidney Paget, look­ are saddling for the first race and a ing every inch the English gentle­ crowd of fashionable folk stand by, man, is talking to young Harry watching the gay-clad jockies as 'Whitney and Duryea, whose faces they supervise the finishing touches are flushed with boyish pleasure as which are being given to their they look over their future futurity mounts. Horses of high degree are winner, Artful. The dames of there: Delhi, Sysonby, Tanya, Art­ high degree are likewise there, the ful, and the queens of the turf. Bel­ beautiful Mrs. Clarence ~Iackay, dame and Molly BI ant, the latter llrs. Harry Payne Whitney, Mrs. the namesake of the Indian wife of Tommy Hitchcock, Mrs. John San­ old Sir William Johnson, whose ford and all other lovers of good visit to High Rock Spring brought horses and the sport of kings. modern Saratoga into being. Proud, On the grand stand the whole well-groomed and thoroughbred to fashionable world seems to be as­ the bone, they are surrounded by sembled; the printed names upon human beings equally thoroughbred, the boxes read like the columns of a well-groomed and famous, for all society journal, while not hundreds, the notables of the turf world are but thousands of equally well­ present. The veteran, James R. dressed and well-mannered men and Keene, a twinkle of delight in his women, who have assembled from bright, restless eyes, tries vainly to all parts of the world to see the conceal a smile of satisfaction in his most aristocratic and finest racing grizzled beard, as he surveys his in America, fill completely the long splendid Delhi, and plans a raid rows of benches. upon the bookmakers presently that Down in the betting ring, yellow-

THE SADDLING PADDOCK, RACE TRACK·

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was his reputation as a shrewd judge that could the layers find his choice, they would cut the odds be­ yond reason. vVithin a few min­ utes he may have lost forty thous­ and dollars or won a hundred thousand on one race; yet he would manifest far less excitement than the group of small horse-owners sitting just in front, who, having staked ten dollars apiece, were pre­ pared to yell themselves hoarse as the racers entered the home stretch. Seen from the infield, the bright apparel of the women transforms the huge grand stand into a flower garden, amidst whose blossoms the soberly clad men swarm like so many bees. All is brightness, gaiety and laughter, for racing at Saratoga is a pastime not a busi­ ness, and not one-third of the spec­ JAMES D. MCNULTY PRESIUENT OF TOWN OF SARATOGA SPRINGS tators will bet a cent, and not one-hundredth care much whether back gold certificates are being they win or lose. There is nothing tossed back and forth like pennies. just like it in America, or elsewhere The rotund colored gentleman with in the world. the smile that won't come off, who After the last race, there is a for years has acted as John A. grand scramble; tf;e long line of Drake's betting commissioner, is private automobiles waiting at the going quietly from one bookmaker clubhouse entrance is first off, to another, placing wagers of thous­ speeding for the most part to the ands of dollars with each, merely by Lake, where the broad piazzas of a nod and a word, without a ques­ the Arrowhead are filled with gay tion as to his authority to risk a parties eagerly deVQuring the fam­ fortune for his employer. For at ous "black bass dinner," while the Saratoga it is a "gentleman'S game," Lakeside, on the shores of Lake and the betting, although as high as Lonely, is crowded with hungry a million dollars has been wagered visitors. Others hurry to the polo on one race, is after all a minor fea­ grounds, the generous gift of the ture. Over there, on the far corner late William C. Whitney, whom of the grand stand, Pittsburgh Phil, Saratoga will always hold in loving who left when he died recently, memory as the founder of her pres­ three mi11ion dollars wrung from ent prosperity. Here, in the light the bookmakers, used to sit in sat­ of the me110w August sunset, fam­ urnine aloofness. No one knew ous players ride madly up and down which horse he was playing, not the field in pursuit of the elusive even the bookmakers, for so great ball. Though matched against

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such veterans as Foxhall Keene, I t fell to the writer's lot to prepare August Belmont and Harry Payne a money valuation of this regular Whitney, the young Gould boys evening assemblage for a prominent and their rivals, the Belmont young­ newspaper. A famuus dressmaker, sters, prove that young America is an equally noted jeweler and a not to be despised. broker who is well acquainted with In the evening, the town brilliant the financial standing of the men, with lights, presell(s a sight not spent one evening amongst the soon forgotten. Of late years the crowd and reported these figures as splendid orchestra at the Grand their estimates: value of dresses Union has made the piazzas and worn $1,250,000; value of jewels lobby of that hotel by common con­ worn, $2,400,000; reputed wealth of sent the rallying place of Saratoga's fifty of the 1110st prominent men, gaiety in the evening. The spectacle $550,000,000. is brilliant beyond description; \Vhile the long rows of seats on evening gowns and gems of fabu­ the piazza are mostly filled with tht lous price are the rule, and in the fair sex, the corridors and front marble-lined central office, the light piazza have by custom each their from a hundred electric fixtures, regular habitues. In front of the tossed back from one flashing jewel main entrance is Politicians' Row. to another, to be finally lost in a Here, every night, leaders of botH sheen of iridescent silk or fold of parties hold low-voiced consulta­ priceless lace, affords a sight un­ tions whose results have been seen known save in Saratoga Springs. more than once in a future Presi­ dent. In 1840 Daniel 'vVebster, while addressing 15,000 people at Saratoga, narrowly escaped death by the total collapse of the platform on which he was standing. Since then more political platforms have been utterly wrecked at Saratoga than at any other place in America. Along the north front of the hotel the horsemen hold post mortems over races of the day. Probable odds for the morrow are discussed and private information whispered, that would make the humblest piker a rich man if he could only overhear. At half-past eleven the gaiety is at its height. The hotel restaurant and the outdoor pagoda are filled with gay parties; every cafe in town, every hotel piazza hums with life. At twelve o'clock the night­ watchman goes his rounds and M. G. ANNIS turns out all but a glimmer of light, PRESIDENT OF THE SARATOGA Bl:SI!'IESS MEN'S ASSOCIATJO!'I yet no one complains for there is

Digitized by Goog Ie NEW ENGLAND MAGAZINE no one left. Early to bed is the Sara­ you will find them enjoying the toga rule and by common consent, lovely drives during the perfect Au­ the luxury of sleep, such sleep a!> gust days, or filling the golf links or the cool, quiet August night at tennis courts with healthy laughter; Saratoga brings, is too great a joy you will find them in the evening at to be curtailed. the great hotels, quietly enjoying Such is Saratoga in August. On the dazzling spectacle kindly offered the surface it is all racing, all din­ them by the strenuous five thousand. ing, all excitement, yet this is far They are the backbone, the founda­ from the whole of it. There are tion of Saratoga's success. When fifty thousand persons in the town; the last race closes, and the racing there are five thousand present at set vanishes as suddenly as it came, the race track; where are tHe forty­ the town is still full. New arrivals five thousand who do not attend? appear to spend a week on their You will find them listening to the way home from the Adirondacks, morning concerts at the Congress their faces bronzed from a summer Spring, drinking with deliberate de­ in the open. Tennis tournaments light the sparkling waters; you will fill in the day's small talk. Not find them at all times of the day in one in twenty could name the ten the fairy-like Congress Spring Park, best horses of the season, and not where, by the way, still exists the so much as a five cent piece is pavilion in which the Standard Oil wagered from one day's end to an­ Trust was formed; at the Patterson other. or at any of the forty other springs, Such is Saratoga Springs, chang­ or at the so-called spring parlors ing with chameleon-like rapidity as of the Lincoln, the Vichy, the Gey­ her visitors desire. Her charm re­ ser, the Arondack, and others, sides in her endless variety; but it is where the water is served, "hot, her matchless springs, healing each cold or medium" from bottles, since year their thousands, that is the the springs themselves lie too far real source of her fame-a fame that away from the center of the town; bids fair to be enduring.

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