v o l . xii RESEARCH n o . «

Outstanding Features in This Month's Issue

Fluorescent Light For making photomicrographs of at relatively low magnifications, fluorescent lamps provide an excellent source of illumination. (See page 2.)

Increased Card Speeds Higher tensile strength and improved appearance followed an increase in card cylinder speeds in two south­ ern mills. (See page 11.)

Two-Way Stretch Fundamental research on properties of latex led to de­ velopment of fine elastic for and . (See page 18.)

Determination of Aralac A new test permits the quantitative determination of casein in admixture with , , or cotton. (See page 24.)

Business Research There is a growing recognition among business men of the value of business research as it relates to marketing, industrial relations, and public relations. (See page 26.)

APRIL, 1942 RESEARCH METHODS

Textile Photomicrographs Made at Low Power by Fluorescent Light

By HENRY H. BROADFOOT and EDWARD R. SCHWARZ, F.T.I.

M u c h o f t h e r e c o r d i n g o f observations made in the tex­ tile laboratory 011 yarn and fabric is done by means of photography. For the purpose of showing details of construction, defects in manufacture or the result of serv­ ice, and the results of tear, bursting, impact, or tensile strength tests, high magnification is not required. Here depth of focus, definition, and evenness of lighting are essential; hence the use of micro-tessar lenses of varying power is desirable. Such a lens can be attached directly to the camera by means of a focusing mount as shown in Fig. 1. Each lens is equipped with an iris diaphragm; thus, after the preliminary focus in the camera is made with the diaphragm wide open, it can be stopped down to any desired aperture and thus a further increase in depth of focus is obtainable. The range of magnification is usually from 2.5 X to 16 X- Many workers have experienced difficulty in obtaining satisfactory lighting of the specimen. A 11 illuminant suf­ ficiently intense to insure a short time of exposure fre­ quently heats the specimen dangerously near the burning point. It is also difficult to avoid production of streaks of uneven lighting in the picture. Often these are not visible until the negative is developed. When they show up, there is little that can be done except to rearrange

* Research assistant, Textile Division, M.I.T. ** Professor of Textile Technology, in charge of! Textile Division, M.I.T.

2 TEXTILE RESEARCH apparatus and make successive trials to attempt to elimi­ nate the difficulty. The streaks in many instances can be traced to too sharp focus of the illuminant and consequent appearance of the image of the filaments of the lamp as bars across the specimen. There is a further factor in cost of lighting equipment, which may vary from $30 to $100 or more. Fluorescent lighting does away with all of these diffi­ culties. The tubes and reflectors are easily obtainable at a total cost of about $10 and need not employ more than 60 watts of electrical energy, as compared with the 500 watts or more of energy required for the projection type unit usually used. The rated average life o.f these tubes is better than 2,500 hours. The light is cool and of high actinic quality. Exposures are a matter of a few seconds, and no difficulty is experienced with streaks or uneven lighting. Cost is also kept down by the use of negatives no larger than 3Vi X ■+ V4 inches. An enlarger in the dark

Fig. 1. Arrangement of apparatus with fluorescent lighting

APRIL, 1942 3 Fig. 2. Photomicrograph of mock leno fabric room makes possible the production of prints as large as 11 X 14 inches w ithout difficulty. Another problem which occasionally arises has to do with stereoscopic photography of fabrics or yarns where the rendition of three dimensions is important. The tilting stage mount (“ Textiles and the Microscope,” Schwarz, McGraw-Hill Book Co., New York City, 1932, pp‘. 190-307), in conjunction with the fluorescent lights— placed in a horizontal position—makes such a record simple. For lappets, swivels, lenos, novelty yarns, braids, and fabrics, such a technique may be invalu­ able. It is also of considerable use in showing exactly how various blends are mechanically put together. This is of increasing importance with the advent of vari­ ous fiber mixtures as a result of the emergency situation and in the new allocation of textile fibers for civilian and war use. Here the deformation existing in individual

4 TEXTILE RESEARCH Fig. 3. Appearance of fabric with distorted weave fibers in bending and twisting is important with reference to the resilient properties of the mix and their inter-rela­ tionship to the evaluation of the resilience of the blend. In addition, the arrangement of the fibers in the mat­ ter of trapping air is of considerable importance in connec­ tion with observations made in the laboratory on the heat transmission properties of the material and also of the air permeability or water permeability of fabrics. In this connection, the illustration shown in Fig. 2 will in­ dicate how clearly the openings in a mock leno may be shown by this technique. Here a moderate amount of back lighting, as well as surface lighting, provides clean- cut, white openings which can be checked for arrange­ ment, size, and possible distortion. The manufacturer and designer as well will find pic­ tures of this general character of considerable interest and value as a means of showing exactly the construction

APRIL, 1942 5 details of many fabrics wliich are of simple 01* complex structure. The example given in Fig. 3 illustrates how the surface of a distorted weave appears under this type of lighting. It will be seen how easily the direction of twist, relative size of yarn, and spacing* and arrangem ent, as well as interlacing of yarns, are brought out. In addition to the above, the analysis of defective fabric as a matter of record and further study is made con­ venient and easy. The appearance of a fabric in which the normal two-ply warp yarn has been replaced in one in­ stance by a single yarn is shown in Fig. 4. The arrow indicates the location of the defect, even though this pic­ ture is at low power. Enlargement makes the source of the difficulty even more readily apparent. Many mills are interested in maintaining a record of defects of this character, together with the remedies which were found effective; these are easy to file and make a graphic analy­ sis of the difficulty possible for the benefit both of the operatives and the plant and in case of dispute. To summarize, fluorescent lighting possesses the ad­ vantage of even illumination, prevention of heating of the sample, control of surface lighting in the matter of shade and shadow, short time of exposure, and consider­ able reduction in cost of equipment. It is recommended for use by all interested in the photomacrography of tex­ tile materials.

Fig. 4. Photomicrograph taken at low power of defective fabric

6 TEXTILE RESEARCH RESEARCH ACTIVITIES A conference on warp sizing of spun rayon yarns was held under the auspices of Textile Research In­ stitute in Washington, on April 8. Attending the conference were representatives of companies en­ gaged in sizing spun rayon and supplying materials and equipment employed in that process. Various phases of the warp sizing studies being conducted under direction of the Institute at North Carolina State College Textile School were discussed, and means were considered for broadening the project and making it still more effective. Following the conference many of those in attendance visited the laboratories of Textile Research Institute and the Textile Foundation to view the textile research work being carried on by fourteen research associates under direction of Dr. Milton Harris.

A competition to extend the uses of non-felting wool has been instituted in England by the International Wool Publicity and, Research Secretariat through the Wool Industries Research Association. Prizes to the value of £'70 are offered to competitors who sub­ mit specimen materials of particular merit.

Calling attention to the lack of research on the knit­ ting industry, A. Pollard, head of the Leicester (Eng­ land) School of Textiles, stated recently that there is plenty of work to be done to find out the behavior of yarns under various conditions and there is a large field for the development of new types of yarns for knitting. In the fabric field the greatest possibili­ ties exist for research. What is wanted is a full investigation into the effects of yarn twist, tension, and counts on strength, extensibility, elasticity, com­

APRIL, 1942 7 RESEARCH ACTIVITIES

pressibility, heat-retaining properties, etc. Very little is known about knitting faults. What is re­ quired is a comprehensive long-term policy of re­ search into the causes of the faults and an investiga­ tion into possible cures. Development of new uses for knitted fabrics offers a great scope for research.

Structure of cotton fibers as revealed by the electron microscope will be discussed by Earl E. Berkley at a meeting of the American Chemical Society to be held in Memphis, Tenn., April 20 to 24.

W. D. Appel, chairman of Technical Research Com­ mittee of Textile Research Institute, and Dr. Walter M. Scott, chief of Cotton Chemical Divi­ sion, Southern Regional Laboratory, were active at the meeting of Committee D -1 3 of the American Society for Testing Materials held last month in Providence, R. I. At the session held by Sub-com­ mittee B-4 on bleaching, , and finishing. Dr. Scott, who is chairman, presided, and Mr. Appel de­ scribed the work which is being clone to establish standard tests and specifications for black-out ma­ terials.

II. W. Rose, of American Viscose Corp., has been transferred to the company’s head office hi Wilming­ ton, Del., where he will take charge of the Research and Planning Department of the Corporation. Mr. Rose was formerly in charge of staple fiber sales.

Research facilities have been expanded recently at the textile school of North Carolina State College by addition of a variety of new equipment. At present five graduate students are conducting research proj-

8 TEXTILE RESEARCH RESEARCH ACTIVITIES

ects 011 the following subjects: “ Blending of Viscose and Acetate Rayon” ; “ Processingof Two-Inch, Five- Denier, Crimped Staple Rayon 011 Cotton Machin­ ery” ; “ Evaluation of Water Resistant Finishes” ; “ Study of Dyes Suitable for Dyeing Vinyon” ; and “ Determination of the Twist per Inch Giving the Best Breaking Strength for One-and-One-Half Denier Spun Viscose Yarn.”

Dr. Milton Harris, director of rcscarch for Textile Research Institute and the Textile. Foundation, ad­ dressed the Chicago Section of the American Chemi­ cal Society at a meeting last month. Dr. Harris described the results of researches which have led to the development of a method for treating wool to in­ crease its resistance to damage by moths, alkalis, and, other destructive agencies.

M. Earl Heard, dean of Philadelphia Textile School and member of Textile Research Institute’s publica­ tions and publicity committee, arranged a forum 011 manufacture of cotton duck, which was held last month in Philadelphia. Approximately 200 manu­ facturers of carpets, upholstery, , and other pile fabrics who are anxious to convert their looms to weaving of duck for military purposes attended the forum. Specialists in weaving duck discussed various phases of the conversion problem.

The American Association of Textile Chemists & Colorists has offered to broaden its research to cover dyeing of cotton materials used for military pur­ poses. A year ago the association set up a special committee to conduct, research ivork on dyeing of olive-drab wool fabrics.

APRIL, 1942 9 FUNCTIONS OF RESEARCH

War Council Formed to Put Textile Research on Basis of All-Out for War

P l a n s f o k a T e x t il e R e s e a r c h W a r C o u n c i l wore i'onim- latod at a meeting of textile association officials, held un­ der the auspices of the Textile Research Institute and the Textile Foundation, April 7, in New York. A program was devised to step up the tempo of textile research to meet the new problems arising from war shortages of ma­ terials and labor. The function of this council will be to clear textile research problems involved in the war emer­ gency, and to take steps toward the immediate solution of those problems. Representing the Textile Research Institute at the conference were Fessenden S. Blanchard, Dr. Robert E. Rose, Dr. Harold DeWitt Smith, Edward T. Pickard, Dr. Milton Harris, Win. 1). Appel, Stanley B. Hunt, and Douglas (I. Woolf. Representing the Textile Founda­ tion were Franklin W. Hobbs and Frank D. Cheney. Representatives of the following textile associations participated in the meeting: National Association of Wool Manufacturers, Cotton-Textile Institute, Institute of Car­ pet Manufacturers of America, Underwear Institute, As­ sociation of Cotton Textile Merchants of New York, American Association of Textile Technologists, Cordage Institute, Textile Fabrics Association, National Associa­ tion of Finishers of Textile Fabrics, Cotton Thread Insti­ tute, Rayon Yarn Producers Group, National Federation of Textiles, Inc., Textile Division of American Society of Mechanical Engineers, Soft Fibre Manufacturers Insti­ tute, and National Knitted Outerwear Association.

10 TEXTILE RESEARCH RESEARCH REPORTED

Higher Cotton Yarn Strength and Better Appearance Result from Increased Card Speeds

By George H. Dunlap

An increase, in cotton yarn strength was the unexpected result obtained in a number of mills when card speeds ■were raised■ This phenomenon—as reported by Pro­ fessor Dunlap, who is supervisor of the research pro­ gram being carried out by the Southern Textile Associa­ tion and the Arkwrights under sponsorship of the Textile Foundation— was discussed briefy in the January issue of T extile R esearch. Following is a more detailed re­ port of some of the tests and the results obtained.

U nder tin* present emergency, cotton manufacturers have been considering all possible ways and means of in­ creasing production without a sacrifice of quality. One possibility suggested was the speeding up of the cards. In this connection there were two questions to be an­ swered: (1) Can cards be operated efficiently at speeds greater than the commonly accepted maximum of 165 r.p.m.? (2) Can yarn be produced at these increased speeds without sacrifice of quality? In an effort to an­ swer the foregoing questions arrangements were made with fifteen different cotton mills, scattered over the southern states, to conduct comparative tests on card cylinder speeds. In view of the considerable interest shown in the project, the following preliminary report, summarizing the results of card speed tests made in two of the fifteen

APRIL, 1942 mills, is issued at this time as a matter of information. These data are, of course, only indicative, and no con­ clusions can be draw n until the results of the tests being- made in the other thirteen mills are also available for comparison and analysis. In the two tests reported, the increased cylinder speeds were obtained by changing the size of the driving pulleys, which, in turn, caused a proportional increase in the speeds of the other parts of the card. The same set­ tings at the card were used throughout the tests. The lap and sliver sizings, general organization, and waste data were reported by the two cooperating mills. The sliver and yarn data were; supplied by the w riter, who made the tests under standard conditions and 011 stand­ ard equipment in the testing laboratory of Clemson Tex­ tile School. The yarn was graded against the yarn ap­ pearance standards as developed by the U. S. Agricul­ tural Marketing Service and adopted by the American Society for Testing Materials. Test conditions are summarized in Table I, and test results are given in Table II. Appearance of the yarn

APRIL, 1942 IB Fig. 1. Appearance of yarn spun in Mill A: left, before card speed was increased; right, after card speed was increased. spun in each of the two mills before and after card speeds were increased is shown in Figs. 1 and 2. It appears to be the consensus of textile manufac­ turers that the following factors to a large extent govern the feasibility of increasing card cylinder speed: (a) con­ dition of the cylinder bearing, (b) condition of the cloth­ ing or fillet, and (c) amount of floor vibration. Other mill men believe that the card will operate efficiently at an increased speed provided the speed of the doffer comb is decreased. As a matter of general interest it might be stated that many of the mills cooperating in these tests have been running their card cylinders at increased speeds for more than three months and have experienced no mechanical difficulty in so doing.

Fig. 2. Appearance of yarn spun in Mill B: left, before card speed was increased; right, after card speed was increased.

14 TEXTILE RESEARCH RESEARCH METHODS

Suitability of Sulphur-Dyed Goods For Army Use Determined by Tendering Test

Sulphur colors will be used at an increasing rale for dye­ ing fabrics for military purposes. Accelerated ageing tests have now been worked out which will enable one to determine the amount of deterioration which will take place in sulphur-dyed goods over a given period of time under ordinary storage conditions. These tests, as de­ scribed by John L. Crist, of Southern Dycstuff Corp., at a recent meeting of the Pied wont Section, of the A merican Association of Textile Chemists d Colorists, arc given below.

An accelerated ageing tkst to determine the amount of deterioration which will take place over a given period of time in goods which have been dyed with sulphur colors has been worked out through the cooperation of officers and technicians of the Quartermaster Corps and members of the WPA. The test is as follows: Goods to be tested are heated in an electric oven for 2 hours at a temperature of 135° C., removed from the oven, allowed to cool to room temperature, exposed in an atmosphere of steam, as over a dyebath, for 10 minutes. They are then replaced in the oven at the temperature of 135° C. and subjected to this heat for an additional period of 2 hours, with subsequent steaming. This treatment is repeated the third time. The goods are then allowed to condition in the open atmosphere for 18 hours to regain normal moisture. Breaking tests are made of both warp and filling (or on yarn if it is being tested) in sufficient number to obtain

APRIL, 1942 15 a dependable average. Similar breaking tests are eon- ducted on a portion of the goods that was not subjected to the heat treatments. It is also desirable to run a blank by heating a sample of the undyed goods, which has been similarly adjusted as to alkalinity along with the dyed sample. The percentage of strength remaining is calculated by dividing the remaining strength after heating, by the strength before heating. To be acceptable, goods should retain as much as 75% of their initial strength after this heating, which is considered to be equal to four and one- half years storage under normal conditions. Since it has been found that the presence of organic or mineral acids in dyed and finished cotton goods will cause accelerated tendering, and that when these goods are finished to pH of 9 or above, there is no appreciable tendering, the following method of testing the pH of the goods has been developed. A stock of distilled water containing a suitable wet­ ting-out or penetrating agent to assure complete and rapid wetting-out, is prepared and adjusted to a pH of 9, with a dilute soda ash solution using a potentiometric or a colorimetric method. A 10-gram sample of the goods to be tested is steeped in 150 c.c. of the 9 pH w ater for 1 hour at room temperature (70° F.). Frequent stirring of the solution and goods is necessary to give accurate results. After steeping the goods for 1 hour, they are removed and the pH of the water is again determined. The final pH of all tested solutions should be 9 or above. Should the pH of the tested solutions be below 9, this is an indication that the goods contain some acid which will tend to accelerate tendering, and the goods should be rejected. When the pH of the final solution is 9 or above, this is an indication that the goods are on the alkaline side and are therefore acceptable. (The complete paper by Mr. Crist entitled “ The Place of Sulphur Colors in Our War Production,” appears in the M arch 16, 1942, issue of American Bi/estnjf Reporter.)

16 TEXTILE RESEARCH Increase the Tempo

AN EDITORIAL

► Today the need for textile research is more pressing than ever before. There is urgent- need for research di­ rectly connected with the war effort and for research on new textiles to fill essential civilian requirements. ► If this vital research is to be initiated and carried through before it is too late, we must increase the tempo of research. This can be done, but it necessitates a new approach to research. ► It has always been believed and preached that research should not be hurried. We have that a period of ten years was not too long to wait for a research project to show results. We have encouraged our research workers to be meticulous and painstaking, regardless of the time consumed. ► Now that is changed. Quick results are the things that count most today. ► Textile research must, be accelerated. Research staffs must be augmented so that fundamental research can continue at the same time the immediate problems are attacked by a vigorous program of applied research. In some organizations it may be necessary to transfer from productive departments to research departments men with scientific or technical training, practical experience, and knowledge of Government and civilian needs. Du­ plication of effort must be avoided. Means must be pro­ vided for widespread and speedy dissemination of the results of this research so that new or improved products or processes developed in the laboratory can be quickly adapted to large-scale production.

APRIL, 1942 17 TRIUMPHS OF RESEARCH

Research on Latex Led to the Development of Fabrics With Two-Way Stretch

.M a n u f a c t u r e o f e l a s t i c t e x t i l e s of various types began about ten years ago to assume increasing importance. Tins was due primarily to the introduction of a new type of elastic yarn—Lastex. Today our supplies of rubber and of latex must be conserved for more important uses than production for civilians of either automobile tires or foundation garments with two-way stretch. But this temporary shortage of latex and of rubber does not de­ tract from the importance of the research which led to development of Lastex. ( 'Overed-rubber yarns are not new to the textile indus­ try. For many years prior to the development of Lastex, textile manufacturers had employed covered-rubber yarns in production of surgical stockings, athletic supporters, narrow fabrics, and other specialties. These yarns were made by cutting a sheet of rubber 120 yards long into narrow strips and then covering the square rubber threads with cotton, wool, , or rayon. Covered-rubber yarns so made were relatively coarse and their applica­ tions were limited. Rubber, as everyone knows, is derived from latex, the milky juice obtained principally from rubber trees. Until the close of the first World War, usual practice was to coagulate the latex at the plantations and to ship the dried rubber from the Hast, to the manufacturing plants in this country. Then United States Rubber Co. began importing latex from its plantations. The thought oc-

TEXTILE RESEARCH curved almost immediately : Why not use the latex directly in manufacture of rubber goods, instead of putting it through the coagulating, drying, and other processes previously employed ? At once a large-scale program of fundamental research was started. This fundamental research included, among other matters, studies of the viscosity of latex in relation to its concentration, pH, and presence of compounding ingredi­ ents and other non-rubber materials. The next step was the inauguration of an applied re­ search program focused on the development of new prod­ ucts from latex. Percy Adamson conceived the idea of producing an elastic yarn or thread of such fineness that it could lie knit on fme-gage machines or woven into sheer fabrics, and he interested United States Rubber Co. in the project. Efforts to develop such a product were suc­ cessful, and in the early 1930’s Lastex was introduced. The process employed in manufacturing Lastex is covered by IT. S. P atents Nos. 1,542,257 and 1,822,849. Briefly, it consists of the fo llo w in g operations: (1) ex­ truding latex through a nozzle which is submerged in a coagulating bath; (2) pulling the round thread, known as Lactron, from the bath by means of draw rollers; (3) carrying the thread by a conveyor through a drying chamber and a vulcanizing chamber; (4) winding on bob­ bins; and (5) covering the Lactron, while it is held under tension, with right and left helical windings of a rela-

Biagrammatic sketch showing method of extruding latex to form fine elastic thread

APRIL, 1942 19 lively inelastic fibrous yarn of cotton, rayon, silk, or wool. Many problems, both chemical and mechanical, had to be solved between the time when research was started and that when commercial production of Lastex was achieved. Then followed a vast amount of market re­ search to determine the applications of the new yarn in the textile industry and further scientific research to de­ termine the most suitable methods of sizing, weaving, knitting, and dyeing. The textile industry was quick to adopt Lastex for use in a wide variety of fabrics. One of the first uses was in production of knitted girdles with two-way stretch. Among the more important applications from a volume standpoint were in bathing suits, foundation garments, socks and anklets with self-supporting tops, and shoes. Other items in wliich Lastex has been employed include dress goods, underwear, sweaters, sportswear, upholstery fabrics, slip covers, tapes, braids, , and nets. Until the advent of Lastex, covered-rubber yarns had been em­ ployed almost exclusively in the warps of narrow . The fineness of Lastex permitted its use in both warp and filling of wide woven fabrics. Following the introduction of Lastex, manufacturers of cut-rubber thread awoke to the possibilities of fine covered-rubber yarns and started to cut the rubber sheets into finer and finer strips and to develop machines which enable them to cover these fine threads. In addition, other companies worked out processes for producing elastic yarns directly from latex by so-called pick-up and rolling methods, as contrasted with the extrusion method employed in making Lastex. In the last few years United States Rubber Co. has developed another type of elastic yarn which is even softer and finer than its predecessor. This yarn—known as Laton—is produced by spinning a covering on the fine elastic core, instead of wrapping it with non-elastic yarns. It was about ten years after United State's Rubber (\». began its fundamental research on latex that Lastex was

20 TEXTILE RESEARCH Jantzen swim suit made from knitted fabric containing Lastex introduced commercially. In another ten years the name “ Lastex” and the elastic fabrics made from it were known in every household in this country. Similar yarns were made in several foreign countries, and their use spread throughout the countries of the world. Fine elastic yarns had become seemingly indis­ pensable in the manufacture of some types of garment fabrics and their use was rapidly extending to other fields. Then war broke out in the Pacific. Temporarily, little latex or rubber is available for civilian purposes. But research 011 production of elastic yarns has not stopped. And when the war is over, elastic yarns even better than those produced hitherto will be made available.

APRIL, 1942 21 RESEARCH AIDS

Production and Utilization of Flax Widespread interest in flax production, preparation, and utilization in the United States impelled the Textile Foundation early in 1934 to call together about 25 peo­ ple for a discussion of the subject from all angles. The desirability of securing additional information and factual data became apparent at the conference, and the Founda­ tion, thereupon, authorized a series of experiments and appointed a committee to plan and define the scope of the studies. H. II. W illis, dean of CTemson Textile School, took charge of the studies and a year or so later submitted a report which encompassed the following subjects: (1) growing of flax, (2) decorticating of flax, (3) degumming of flax chemically, (4) spinning of flax fiber ou cotton and other spinning equipment, and (5) manufacture of chemi­ cally treated flax into paper. Requests for this report, ‘‘Flax and Its Products,” * came from all over the country and were in such volume as soon completely to exhaust the available supply. De­ mands for copies continued unabated and last summer the Foundation authorized the preparation of a revised edition. At the request of the Foundation, Warren E. Emley, chief of the division of Organic and Fibrous Materials, National Bureau of Standards, and a member of the original flax committee, undertook the revision. The former report was concerned chiefly with the possibility of raising flax in the southeastern states—a question of primary importance at that time. Mr. Emley’s revision takes a broader view of the national scene, and includes discussions of not only the experiments in the South- East, which are still being continued, but also of the

* FLAX ANI) ITS PRODUCTS; Textile F 01111(1(11 i( ) l l, 1 0 Fast 40th St., New York; 10c.

22 TEXTILE RESEARCH utilization of flax by the spinning and paper industries, and of the flax farms of Oregon.

Multi-Point pH Recorder Simultaneous records of pH at separate and independent points in a fluid-flow are provided by a recently developed multi-point pH recorder. These records enable the operator continuously to detect changes in operating con­ ditions. The first application of the new multi-point pH recorder was made in the power-plant field, where cor­ rosion of boiler systems is largely influenced by the pH of the feedwater. Suggested applications for multi-point records in tex­ tile mills are in the wet processing of wool, where im­ proper pH control will result in damage to fibers and where the effectiveness of scouring and bleaching agents is also dependent upon proper pH values; in desizing by acid or enzymes; and in carbonizing, bleaching, dyeing, neutralizing after mercerizing, a n d other wet proc­ esses. Illustrated is a record from the condensate system of a large utility generating plant, where such guid­ ance has helped to solve the problem of turbine-blade de­ posits. The multi­ point recorder is manufactured by Cambridge Instru- ment Co., Inc., Grand Central Terminal, New York.

23 RESEARCH METHODS

Atlantic Research Associates, Inc., Releases Tentative Method for Determination of Aralac

The follow ing tentative method for the determination of phosphorus in casein fiber can be applied to the deter­ mination of Aralac in admixture with wool, -viscose rayon, acetate rayon, or cotton. It is not suitable, however, for determination of Aralac in admixture with rabbit fur. If an approximation of the Aralac content of the sample is known (as through microscopic examination) a sample-equivalent to not more than 0.5 grams of Aralac is taken. The sample is dried and weighed, given a 2- hour carbon tetrachloride Soxlilet extraction, and air dried. The sample is then given three 1-minute hot water rinses and again dried and weighed. The sample is placed in a 300-ml. Kjeldahl flask; 15 ml. of conc. H 2S0 4 and 15 ml. of cone. IIN 03 are added, and the whole is heated over a low Bunsen flame. The acid digestion is carried out with frequent additions of conc. 11 X():: until the liquid is colorless. This may take from 1 to 3 hours. When the liquid is colorless or a light, limpid yellow, the flask and contents are cooled and transferred to a 400-ml. beaker by washing with about 100 ml. of distilled water. Any white precipitation is disregarded. Next 40 grams of ammonium nitrate is added, and the solution made up to 150 ml. with distilled water and heated to 70: 0. Then 70 ml. of acid ammonium molybdate re­ agent is immediately added with stirring and the whole permitted to remain overnight. The precipitate is fil­ tered through a Gooch crucible and then washed free of

24 TEXTILE RESEARCH Longitudinal and cross- sectional views of casein fibers; magnification 500 X

nitrates (about 20 washes) with an acid ammonium sul­ phate wash solution. The ammonium pliosphomolybdate precipitate is dis­ solved from the crucible with 50 ml. of dilute NH4OH (1:10); 10 ml. of conc. H2S04 is added, and the solution immediately passed through a Jones reductar and caught in an empty flask. The reduced solution is immediately titrated with N/10 KMn04. The percentage of phos­ phorus is calculated as follows: €,., ml. X N. of KMnQ4 X 0.000887 X 100 Wt. of Sample % A ralac = (%P h- 0.82) X 100 The acid ammonium molybdate reagent is prepared as follows: Solution No. 1. Place in a beaker 100 g. of 85% molybdic acid, mix it thoroughly with 240 ml. of dis­ tilled water, add 140 ml. of NH4OH (sp. gr. 0.90). Filter and add to 60 ml. of HNOs (sp. gr. 1.42). Solution No. 2. Mix 400 ml. of HN03 (sp. gr. 1.42) and 960 ml. of dis­ tilled water. When the solutions are cold, add solution No. 1 to solution No. 2 stirring constantly, then add 0.01 gram of ammonium phosphate dissolved in 10 ml. of distilled water, and let stand 24 hours. Filter. The acid ammonium sulphate wash solution is pre­ pared as follows: Mix 25 ml. of conc. H 2S04 and 1000 ml. of distilled water, and then add 15 ml. of conc. NH4OH.

APRIL, 1942 25 FUNCTIONS OF RESEARCH

National Resources Planning Board Report Emphasizes Value of Business Research Many business men associate the term “ research” exclu­ sively ivith the physical and chemical laboratory. There is, however, a growing recognition of the value of business research, particularly as it relates to marketing, indus­ trial relations, and public relations. A broad picture of business research as it exists today in the United States has been drawn in a report to the National Resources Planning Board. Below are abstracts of certain parts of the report believed to be of special interest to textile executives.

M ost existing business research units wore established subsequent to 1920. In this short time business research has become an integral part of business organization and operation, reaching into every phase of activity and in­ creasingly forming the foundation for policy determina­ tion. The subjects covered in most current research by business may be classified as follows: 1. Production and producing methods—production- cost analysis; time and motion studies; machine deprecia­ tion and obsolescence; production stabilization. 2. Personnel and industrial relations—aptitude and attitude tests; fatigue studies; wage, employment, and re­ tirement plans; employee organizations and activities; death and sickness disability benefit plans; and group insurance. 3. Purchasing and inventory—sources and prices of materials; purchasing methods and procedures; inventory control and storage.

26 TEXTILE RESEARCH 4. Financing, investment, and credit—financial meth­ ods and operations; budget planning; investment of re­ serves; dividend policies; credit sources and costs. 5. The market, the consumer, and marketing proce­ dure—market potentials; trading areas and sales quotas; distribution channels; distribution cost; price policies and competition; credit and collection; advertising; warehous­ ing and transportation; consumer identity and attitudes. 6. Economic conditions and tendencies—measurement and forecast of economic and business conditions; gen­ eral price structure and price movements; trade and pro­ duction changes; rates of return on investments and of profits on sales; national income estimates; taxation. 7. Public and Government relations—relation of con­ cern and its industry to public weal; public attitudes; exchange of information with government agencies; reg­ ulation by statute and administrative order. Economics is the dominant field of research among the business concerns studied, with marketing as the most pervasive section of this field. Probably the most rapidly developing field is personnel and industrial relations re­ search. Most recent of the research interests is the broad

Business research embraces the study of economic conditions and trends, markets, personnel relations, and other factors

APRIL, 1942 27 field of public relations, ranging from a study of atti­ tudes of the general public, as distinct from consumer interest, to government-business relationships, particu­ larly the problems of local administrative powers and jurisdiction. Economic Research The field of economic research is both broad and in­ clusive. It is frequently designated as “ business out­ look,” “business trends,” and “business potentials” when encompassing considerations more general than those of the particular concern. Marketing analyses range in variety from economic price studios, through regional sales potentials, to con­ sumer preferences. Differences in channels of distribu­ tion, in types of retail outlets, and in governmental restrictions, have led both manufacturers and distributors to study price relations. Studies of price differences with variations in time, related to type of retail organiza­ tion, location, sources of products, and to differences in classifications of the consumers served, are proving valu­ able contributions to knowledge. A number of objective studies of advertising media have been completed and their results applied to company policy. Personnel Relations The rapid increase of research in personnel relations and responses has almost reached the proportion of a fad. Fundamental studies of operating time, of motions in­ volved in performing tasks, and of fatigue, which gained considerable attention three decades ago, have experi­ enced considerable improvement in method and in result. Many concerns combine attitude tests with interview im­ pressions and with investigation of community and home conditions. These tests are currently adapted to promo­ tions, particularly to the selection of a group of appren­ tices for whom training as supervisors and executives is provided. Pressure of employees for recognition of their desire for security has directed research into new fields, such as insurance and industrial stabilization programs.

28 TEXTILE RESEARCH Several business organizations, as 'well as m any in­ dividual companies, are emphasizing the need of a con­ tinuing study of employer-employee relationships. It is impressive to note that these research programs include an effort not only to determine the point of view and welfare of the worker, but the “ company attitude,” as well. Involved are such vital factors as wage coordina­ tion, incentives, vacations, occupational requirements, em­ ployment and promotion standards, work continuity, health, education and training, conditions of work, living costs, and employee participation in management. Con­ siderable research activity is in process toward establish­ ing programs and policies for employment regularization. Public Relations The collapse of the foreign market, the development of new products, and the increased competition for consumer favors have resulted in a rapid extension of research, not alone in the general field of market potentials but, in addi­ tion, in the more extensive study of consumer preference and attitude. The attitude toward public relations of the president of one large corporation was expressed in the comment that his company was endeavoring to “ account for its stewardship to the public.” A study of public attitudes and desires had just been completed in 3 of 90 selected communities, involving, 4,000 interviews. The president reported that: (1) the public has a long memory and attributes to present company policies attitudes that “ un­ fortunately were true in the past” : (2) the public is far better acquainted with the company’s products, services, and financing than any of its officers surmised; and (3) “ we were missing many bets in our assumptions as to what the public expects of us.” (The complete report “ Research—A National Resource; III Business Research,” can be obtained from the U. S. Government Printing Office, Washington, D. C. Price is 20 cents a copy.)

APRIL, 1942 29 RESEARCH BRIEFS ► Sulphur dyeing of cotton materials required by the British Government for military purposes is de­ scribed by H. Boothroyd in a paper, “ Dyeing with Sulphur Dyes With Special Reference to Khaki, Blue, and Gray Shades,” in the February, 1942, issue of The Journal of the Society of Dyers d- Colourists. Paper discusses selection of dyes; methods for dye­ ing raw stock, yarn, and ; and precautions necessary to avoid defects.

► Mildewproofing of cotton for sand bags is described in an article “ Mildewproofing Army Fab­ rics,” in the February, 1942, issue of Textile World. Article outlines copper napthenate process called for in IT. S. Government specifications.

► Proofing and coating of fabrics are discussed from a scientific viewpoint by C. L. Wall in an article Pro­ duction of Difficultly Permeable Fabrics—Y, in the F ebruary, 1942, issue of the Textile Manufacturer. Effects of plasticizers and analogies between dyeing and plasticizing are considered.

► Results of researches on waterproofing wool goods arc* given by W. R. Lang in a report “ Waterproofing Heavy Woolens by Aluminum Acetate,” in a recent issue of the Textile Journal of Australia and ab­ stracted at length in the February, 1942, issue of the Textile Manufacturer. Report indicates that no sig­ nificant differences are obtained with aluminum ace­ tate solutions prepared with lead acetate and calcium actetate; that hot pressing improves resistance to water of both proofed and unproofed fabrics; and that most difficulties encountered are due to too

30 TEXTILE RESEARCH large a “ pore’’ size because of improper weave nr holes where burrs have been removed, use of ex­ hausted liquors, or insufficient impregnation time.

► The effect 011 cotton yarn strength and fluidity of differ­ ent methods of kier boiling and bleaching are dis­ cussed by Najir Ahmad, M. IT. Parmar, and K. Venhataraam, in a research report “ The Effect of Kier Boiling and Bleaching 011 the Cuprammonium Fluidity and Strength of Yarns Spun from Four G-ood-Quality Indian ” in Technical Bulletin B 29 of the India Central Cotton Committee and ab­ stracted at length in the February, 1942, issue of the Textile Manufacturer. Results of the investigation indicate: (1) the concentration of caustic soda in a pressure boil is not a significant factor so far as degradation of the cotton is concerned; (2) an open boil with soap and soda ash gives consistently high fluidity value and low tensile strength; and (3) fluidities of samples bleached with chlorine are in all cases significantly higher than those of the unbleached samples, but strength tests do not disclose a similar effect.

► Results of measurements of the affinity of wool for 18 strong acids are reported by Jacinto Steinhardt, Charles H. Fugitt, and Milton Harris, in a report “ Further Investigations of the Affinities of Anions of Strong Acids for Wool Protein,” in the February, 1942, issue of the Journal of Research. The report covers a continuation of earlier studies by research associates of the Textile Foundation, designed to give a basis for understanding the factors influencing the dyeing of wool.

► Chemical changes which occur in standing baths em­ ployed for development by the cliromate process in mineral dyeing are discussed bv E. Race, F. M. Rowe,

APRIL, 1942 31 RESEARCH BRIEFS and J. B. Speakman in the third of a series of articles on “ The Dyeing of Cotton with Mineral Khaki,” in the February, 1942, issue of the Journal of the So­ ciety of Dyers £ Colourists. Studies made by the authors indicate that when the pH, cliromate content, and volume of the developing solution are adjusted to their original values after each development, the liquor can be used indefinitely as a standing bath, provided the deposits of chromium and iron cliro- mates, and ammonium and sodium sulphates are removed when their presence interferes with the successful working of the material in the developing bath.

► The nature of wool dyeing solutions is considered from a scientific viewpoint by C. L. Bird, of the Dyeing Department of Leeds University, in the third of a series of articles on “ Modern Theory and Practice of Wool D yeing,” in the February, 1942, issue of Textile Recorder.

► Methods for testing the levelness of worsted roving and yarns and results of levelness tests are discussed by F. G. Martindale, of Wool Industries Research Association, in a paper “ Irregularities in Rovings and Yarns,” in the February, 1942, issue of the ■Journal of-the Textile Instit ute. Among the conclu­ sions drawn are: (1) the percentage irregularity in­ creases as the material becomes finer; (2) there is an upper limit to the useful number of doublings which need be employed in effecting a given reduction in drawing; and (3) in performing a given amount of reduction, provided a certain minimum amount of doubling is done, the factor which governs roving irregularity is the draft used—high drafts being in­ jurious.

32 TEXTILE RESEARCH