Texas Forts Trail Region
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TEXAS HISTORICAL COMMISSION TEXASTEXAS FORTSFORTS TRAILTRAIL This travel guide is made possible through the Texas Historical Commission’s partnership with the Texas Department of Transportation, Office of the Governor – Economic Development REGIONREGION and Tourism, Texas Parks and Wildlife and Texas Commission on the Arts. The Texas Historical Commission, the state agency for historic preservation, administers a variety of programs to preserve the archeological, historical and cultural resources of Texas. The Texas Heritage Trails Program The Texas Historical Commission is a leader in implementing and promoting heritage tourism efforts in Texas. The Texas Heritage Trails Program is the agency’s award-winning tourism initiative. For additional copies of this brochure, call 866/276-6219. P.O. BOX 12276 • AUSTIN, TX 78711-2276 PHONE: 512/463-6100 • FAX: 512/463-6374 www.thc.state.tx.us ® It’s like a whole other country. Funding provided through TxDOT’s Statewide Transportation Enhancement Program Copyright © 2006, Texas Historical Commission. Printed in Texas. 7/06-100M Background: Fort McKavett, Menard Background and inset photos credit: Texas Parks and Wildlife EXPLORING THE HERITAGE OF WEST CENTRAL TEXAS uring the late 1800s, settlers streamed west with hopes of new opportunities. Frontier soldiers DDbuilt forts linking wild country and settled lands, while protective Native Americans defended these prairies as their traditional buffalo hunting and trading grounds. An epic and sometimes violent struggle ensued across the rolling plains of today’s Texas Forts Trail Region. Attempts at altering Native American life began in the late 1700s when Spanish missionaries sought to Christianize Plains Indians. Missions were established and presidios were built for protection including Presidio San Luis de Las Amarillas, near present-day Menard. The Native American threat eventually led to the Spanish withdrawal from Texas. Nomadic groups remained largely unchallenged on their native soil under Mexican rule (1821–36) and the Texas Republic (1836–45). After American statehood in 1845, settlers flooded into Texas, and the U.S. Army established a line of frontier forts. Settlements pushed farther west in the 1850s, and the military built a second line of forts — including Fort Phantom Hill (near present-day Abilene), Fort Mason (Mason), Fort Belknap (Graham), Fort McKavett (Menard) and Fort Chadbourne (Bronte). After the Civil War, more Army outposts — Fort Concho (San Angelo), Fort Griffin (Albany) and Fort Richardson (Jacksboro) — were established. These eight forts and one presidio comprise the historical backbone of the Texas Forts Trail Region, and offer a glimpse of frontier life through restored historic structures and living history events. ## ## ## ## CCaatchtch tthehe PPiioonneereer SSppiritirit Background: Fort Phantom Hill, Abilene estern military posts composed of wood and While millions of buffalo roamed the Great Plains stone structures were grouped around an open in the 1870s, underpinning the Plains Indian way of life, parade ground. Buildings typically included separate the systematic slaughter of the animals had decimated WWhousing for officers and enlisted troops, hospital the vast southern herd in Texas by the time the first and morgue, bakery and sutler’s store (provisions), horse railroads arrived in the 1880s. Buffalo bones still littered stables and storehouses. Troops used these remote the area and railroads proved a boon to the bone trade outposts to launch, and recuperate from, periodic patrols with eastern markets, producing buttons, meal and across the immense Southern Plains. calcium phosphate. Settlements often sprang up near forts for safety and The Army had other motivations. It encouraged the Army contract work. Many were dangerous places with kill-off as a way to drive Plains Indians onto reservations. desperate characters. Comanches, Kiowas and Kiowa Apaches responded with raids on settlements, wagon trains and troop movements, sometimes kidnapping individuals and stealing horses and supplies. Soldiers stationed at frontier forts launched a relentless military campaign, the Red River War of 1874–75, which forced the state’s last free Native Americans onto Experience the regions’ dramatic reservations in present-day Oklahoma. past through historic sites, museums and courthouses — as well as historic downtowns offering unique shopping, dining and entertainment. ## ## ## ## ## ## ## 2 TEXAS HISTORICAL COMMISSION The westward push of settlements also relocated During World War II, the vast land proved perfect cattle drives bound for railheads in Kansas and beyond. for military flight and infantry training bases. After the war, Cattle drovers who once used the Chisholm Trail in towns and cities swelled with new people. The economy, Central Texas began using the Western Trail in the 1870s. rooted in farming and ranching, grew with new business Today, U.S. Highway 283 roughly traces the route through opportunities. the heart of the Texas Forts Trail Region. Communities in the 29 counties of the Texas Forts Trail Railroad expansion gave pioneers unprecedented Region invite visitors to experience the region’s dramatic past access to distant markets, boosting the local cattle and through historic sites, museums and courthouses –– as well cotton economies. Towns formed along, or moved to, as historic downtowns offering unique shopping, dining and rail lines and prospered. More prosperity burst from the entertainment. Along the way, visitors walk in the footsteps of ground in the 1910s and 1920s when oil was discovered. a colorful cast of characters — Spanish missionaries, nomadic Native Americans, eager settlers and gritty soldiers –– who struggled to make this place their home. Background: Officers quarters, Fort Concho 3 T The following cities are H described in this guide and E West Fork the number refers to the city’s of th T e B location on the map. the 183 ra 281 Tr E B z in ra 6 283 os i t f zo y o s R R X Fort Richardson i 83 iv 10 ver er Lake rk A o Graham Jacksboro F 7 ABILENE 1 Throckmorton 380 S Aspermont Haskell 251 t 380 l 380 4 380 ALBANY 6 a 61 S Lake Stamford f Graham a Fort Belknap 9 ANSON 4 razos Br zos o e B f th 6 16 rk o e r 84 Dou o h 283 BAIRD 32 ble Mountain F t 5 281 254 t To 83 Possum Kingdom BALLINGER 29 f Fort Griffin s Lubbock Stamford o Reservoir 11 Hamlin Hubbard Mineral Wells 3 277 183 BRADY 23 6 rk o Creek 180 T F 8 BRECKENRIDGE 8 4 Anson Lake 180 R Albany 180 C 83 600 6 Breckenridge A BRONTE 30 l ea 277 180 Roby r Lake 16 Lake I BROWNWOOD 20 Palo Pinto 1082 Fort Phantom Hill Daniel L Lake 12 20 CISCO 15 2833 Fort Phantom Hill 6 13 R COMANCHE 19 Sweetwater 80 Ranger 20 84 283 Lake Thurber E 2 Eastland 2461 DE LEON 16 20 80 Cisco Abilene 322 281 G 20 Lake Sweetwater 1 32 14 DUBLIN 18 20 I 89 Baird Cisco Lake Kirby Leon 2214 O Buffalo Gap EASTLAND 14 15 Reservoir 17 N Stephenville 6 EDEN 26 Lake Abilene 613 Cross Plains B 67 277 Tuscola 16 o 183 s ELDORADO 25 83 q De Leon u Lake e Oak Creek 36 18 GOLDTHWAITE 21 Coleman 16 Dublin R iv Reservoir 6 e E. V. Spence 283 Proctor r GRAHAM 9 53 Reservoir 31 84 Lake Reservoir HAMLIN 3 Robert Lee 277 Winters Brownwood 67 158 Hords Creek Comanche JACKSBORO 10 Fort Coleman 377 Bronte 30 Reservoir 19 ChadbourC ne 279 MASON 22 ol 83 ora do 67 Early 84 20 MENARD 24 208 277 Ballinger 2524 67 Brownwood P 29 ec MINERAL WELLS 11 2126 a 84 87 O.H. Ivie Reservoir n 183 B PAINT ROCK 28 ay OC Fisher Lake onch ou C o River 28 River 283 377 45 RANGER 13 84 Star 27 Fort Concho Paint Rock SAN ANGELO 27 Goldthwaite San Angelo Eola 21 381 FORT STAMFORD 5 Lake 183 67 Nasworthy 83 STEPHENVILLE 17 C 26 190 o Twin Buttes lo 87 r 190 r SWEETWATER 2 Reservoir ve a Mertzon Eden i d Christoval R San Saba o THROCKMORTON 7 b a 580 a R 277 Brady Reservoir r Brady S i 23 v THURBER 12 an e S r 71 Bend WINTERS 31 190 24 Menard 190 87 377 Eldorado 190 386 25 29 Fort 5 10Sonor 0 3a Presidio San Luis 22 Mason de Las Amarillas Mason er 20 SUTTON N Fort iv no R 290 McKavett la L 360 2335 87 uth So 31 N EDWARDS 4 ABILENE North of town stands Fort Phantom Hill, a federal outpost (1851–54) The region’s largest city, Abilene preserves the traditional heritage of the where signs mark three restored structures and nearly a dozen ruins. old West while providing the advantages of a contemporary city. The outpost’s elevated site seems to flatten upon approach, hence the Frontier Texas! welcomes travelers with a dramatic sight-and-sound name “phantom” hill. During its brief duty, the garrison experienced experience of frontier life from 1780 to 1880. Animated video characters only peaceful encounters with Plains Indians. It later served as a stop on personify Spanish explorers, frontier soldiers, Comanche warriors, the Butterfield Overland Mail route and as a sub-post of Fort Griffin, buffalo hunters and pioneer families. Frontier Texas! also serves as a near Albany. visitors center for the city of Abilene and the Texas Forts Trail Region. The railroad brought major changes in the 1880s. Named after the Kansas railhead, Abilene became a shipping center on the Texas and Pacific Railway. Nearby Buffalo Gap, once the county seat, was bypassed by the railroad and subsequently dwindled. Today, tiny Buffalo Gap has several restaurants and art-souvenir shops. The 1880 Taylor County Courthouse and jail rest on their original sites inside Buffalo Gap Historic Village.