June 1998

NATIONAL PARKS ASSOCIATION (ACT) INCORPORATED

Jervis Bay Marine Park From Wiluna to Billiluna and back Lower Molonglo Plan NPA BULLETIN Volume 35 number 2 June 1998

CONTENTS From the President 3 Vale 11 Clive Hurlstone Syd Comfort NSW tourism strategy 3 New location for General Meetings 11 Timothy Walsh Walking with a 'GPS' 12 Jervis Bay Marine Park 4 Reg Alder Den Robin Speaker tells about 'a pinch of time' 13 Commonwealth environment legislation reform 5 Len Haskew Timothy Walsh Gordon's glory in granite: McKeahnie Trig 14 From Wiluna to Billiluna and back 6 Matthew Higgins Reet Vallak Parkwatch 15 Lower Molonglo Plan: strong on policies, Compiled by Len Haskew weaker on specifics 8 Trekking in Seram, Eastern Indonesia 16 Stephen Johnston Robyn Barker and Tom Heinsohn Update on Native Title issues 9 The Tasmanian Trail 17 Robin Miller Greg Lewis The Great Victoria Desert 9 Book review 18 Judith Webster Eleanor Stodart Bibbulman renewed 10 New members 19 Syd Comfort The Conservation Council 19 Syd Comfort

National Parks Association (ACT) Incorporated Inaugurated 1960

Aims and objectives of the Association The NPA (ACT) office is located in Maclaurin Cres. Chifley, • Promotion of national parks and of measures for the next to the preschool and is staffed by Dianne Hastie. Office protection of fauna and flora, scenery natural features and hours are: 9am to 1pm Mondays. Tuesdays and Thursdays cultural heritage in the Australian Capital Territory and elsewhere, and the reservation of specific areas. Telephone/Fax: (02) 6282 5813 • Interest in the provision of appropriate outdoor recreation Address: PO Box 1940, Woden ACT 2606 areas. Membership • Stimulation of interest in, and appreciation and enjoyment New members are welcome and should enquire through the of, such natural phenomena and cultural heritage by NPA office. organised field outings, meetings or any other means. • Cooperation with organisations and persons having similar Subscription rates (1 July to 30 June) interests and objectives. Household members S30 Single members $25 • Promotion of, and education for, conservation, and the Corporate members $20 Bulletin only $20 planning of landuse to achieve conservation. Concession $15 For new subscriptions joining between: Office-bearers and committee 1 January and 31 March - half specified rate

President 1 April and 30 June - annual subscription Clive Hurlstone 6288 7592th); 6246 5516(w) NPA Bulletin

Immediate past president Contributions of articles, Jine drawings and photographs Eleanor Stodart 6281 5004(h) including colour prints are welcome and should be lodged with the office or Syd Comfort (02) 6286 2578. Secretary Deadline for September issue: 1 August 1998. Max Lawrence 6288 1370(h) Articles by contributors may not necessarily reflect Treasurer Association opinion or objectives. Mike Smith 6286 2984(h) Yvonne Bartos 623 1 569900 This bulletin was produced by the NPA Bulletin Working Group Len Haskew 6281 4268(h); fax 6281 4257 with assistance from Green Words. Funds provided by the ACT Stephen Johnston 6258 3833(h); 6264 2035(w) Government under the ACT Environment Grants Program Robin Miller 6281 6314(hj; 6201 2191(w) assisted in the production of this issue.

Cover Printed by Copy-Qik Printers, Canberra, ACT on recycled paper. Remnant rainforest, Green Point, Beecroft Peninsula, ISSN 0727-8837 Jervis Bay. Photo, Reg Alder From the President

Members will find two inserts in this Namadgi, one of my companions ation on the project at Namadgi edition of the Bulletin: a member­ drew attention to the pale buff Visitors Centre by Ranger Steve ship renewal form and a map coloured tree crowns scattered Welch and Park Care Coordinator showing the location of Forestry across the hillsides singly and in Ann Connolly we went to view the House. clumps - dead trees. Probably fewer site. When weather conditions are When completing your member­ than one tree in 500 have died but a right park staff plan to burn 90ha of ship renewal please consider the significant number none the less. pine residue in the Hospital Creek reverse side where a number of the This is an indication of the severity area and west of Bogong Creek; the activities of the NPA in which you of the drought still gripping us. Just ash bed is ideal for germinating could become involved are listed. If recently I read that the weather broadcast seed and establishing one or more of these interest you experts are predicting a return of transplants and winter the best time. please tick the box and you will be more normal weather by spring with If the drought is breaking we may contacted and informed of events by the breakup of the current El Nino get some wet winters rather than dry a convenor or, if you prefer, contact event. This observation on the very frosty ones which will mean one of the NPA people listed inside drought and its coming end was not better survival of tree and shrub the front cover. unrelated to the meeting at seedlings. The timing of volunteer The other insert concerns the Namadgi to discuss the rehab­ involvement is very weather change in general meeting venue. ilitation of the site of the former dependent so at this stage the NPA The NPA has been meeting at the Boboyan pine plantation. cannot fix dates in the outings Griffin Centre for over 20 years but The meeting was being held to program. I hope that two weeks' with the increasing levels of night foster the establishment of a Park notice will be possible and telephone time activity around Bunda Street, Care group to channel community notification will be used. If you would intrusive noise has become a involvement in rehabilitation of the like to be involved with the Park problem. So it's a reluctant goodbye area which was previously under Care group committee or be on the to the Griffin Centre and welcome pines. About twenty people came contact list for work parties please to Forestry House in July. along including some locals from the phone Diane at the NPA office. • Whilst driving to a meeting in Tharwa area and after a present­ Clive Hurlstone

NSW tourism strategy

The NSW Government has issued a ment and the precautionary abseiling, orienteering, rafting, will draft Nature Tourism and principle. It is accepted that greater always be subject to the most critical Recreation Strategy for comment public use of national parks is scrutiny and regulation. National and naturally with our long­ inevitable, and that this strategy parks cannot provide all the standing interest in NSW national will allow the NPWS to direct this recreational facilities demanded. parks the association submitted rather than merely react to This is not their purpose. The comments, despite the usual problems that greater use can cause tourism industry must realise that ridiculously tight deadline govern­ if unregulated. NPA-ACT stressed, very often it must turn to state ments of all kinds seem to delight however, that nature conservation forests, state recreational areas and in demanding from their interest and in particular the maintenance private land to provide the resources groups. of biodiversity, remains the primary for its activities. Naturally the use Whilst the strategy makes fre­ purpose of national parks. The of these alternative sites should be quent reference to the fact that mistakes made in such parks as in accord with appropriate manage­ national parks were established first Yellowstone, Grand Canyon, ment plans to ensure that their and foremost for nature conser­ Kosciuszko, must never be repeated national values are also adequately vation purposes it is quite clear from in NSW in the future. protected. the tone of the draft strategy and the Our submission made the point The strategy deals with access language used that government that it has to be accepted by the issues, funding from commercial tourism bodies have had a major tourism industry and commercial activities and developments and hand in its drafting, its flavour and tour operators that some activities, 'improvements' within parks. We its direction. This is to be expected. no matter how popular and emphasised in particular that However more than just lip service profitable they become, are never nothing can replace adequate public must now be paid to terms like limits appropriate to a national park and funding of nature conservation. to acceptable change, best practice, that others, such as horse riding, ecologically sustainable develop­ .mountain bike riding, hang gliding, continued on page S Jervis Bay Marine Park

Jervis Bay Marine Park was NSW Marine Parks Authority gazetted on 2 January this year, to manage marine parks, realising a long-held ambition of the comprising the Director- facdhavm Heads NPA ACT. With the waters around General of the Premier's the Solitary Islands near Coffs Department (Chair), the Harbour, Solitary Islands it became onDirectoe of ther ofirsf NSt W Fisheries two marine parks in New South and the Director-General of Lt^inhan Point Wales. the NSW National Parks and The marine park includes the Wildlife Service. Mechanisms Jervisgsr waters of Jervis Bay and its tidal for ensuring public input into management include a tributaries and a narrow offshore <~n /Jervis Bay band stretching from Kinghorn Point statewide advisory council ^J/ Marine Park reef in the north to Sussex Inlet in and an advisory committee for Sussex W< the south. Wreck Bay is included. each marine park, made up of The new park aims to protect rich local interest groups. marine life, including some of the The power of the new largest seagrass beds on the east legislation relies on the coast of Australia, some 231 species designation of various use of marine algae (seaweed), many sea zones - determined through a penguins use it all. There is a strong birds, the endangered Grey Nurse comprehensive public consultation argument that the entire bay should Shark, a colony of fur-seals, a process - through which regulations be managed as one entity for resident fur-seals pod of bottlenose dolphinswill be , enforced. conservation. It is difficult to imagine a large colony of Little Penguins that At this stage, it looks as if the how 'ecologically sustainable breed on Bowen Island, whales manyzone fishs will be similar to those activities including commercial and species, and often late in spring, whalespropose d in the draft management recreational fishing' in one locality visiting whales resting on their plan prepared in 1994 by NSW will not affect the entity. Taking return journey to Antarctic waters. Fisheries for a proposed aquatic pressure off one zone may increase The bay contains dramatic reserve. There are likely to be pressure on another. underwater scenery, every year sanctuary zones, general use zones, Local conservationists are hoping attracting tens of thousands of refuge zones, special purpose zones the forthcoming consultation process divers. It is said to be one of the best and designated management zones. will clarify some of these concerns. diving localities on the east coast of Regulations will dictate what is They have a list of issues that they Australia. permitted, and what is not want addressed in the zoning plan. This beautiful marine resource, permitted, in each zone. These include: together with the surrounding Public consultation • extension of the marine park's Booderee National Park (Common­ ocean boundary further eastward wealth Territory) and the NSW The draft zoning plan is due for to align with the State/ Jervis Bay National Park, attracts release for public consultation in Commonwealth waters boundary. increasing numbers of holiday- June 1998. Reducing the number of different makers and tourists each summer. Park authorities say it could be up jurisdictions within a relatively to two years before the consultation Conservation organisations, small area would obviously help process is completed and the zoning including the NPA ACT, had called authorities in watching over the system is in place. for the declaration of the marine area. Also, extension of the park for nearly two decades. In 1990, Major issues boundary would mean the marine NPA assisted the Australian While the concept of zoning is based park was more consistent with the Conservation Foundation's Canberra on the Great Barrier Reef Marine foraging range of the Little Branch to prepare a proposal for a Park model, it should be borne in Penguins; marine reserve and for protection of mind that the Barrier Reef stretches • a total ban on jet skis; its catchment. for more than 2000km and the • a ban on spearfishing. (spear- Marine park management multiple uses permitted there can be fishing is prohibited in the contained in discrete areas. Jervis adjacent waters of Booderee Declaration of Jervis Bay Marine Bay is a small area - you can see National Park); Park was made possible by new from one shore to the other - and NSW legislation, the Marine Parks the marine species like dolphins and Act 1997. This Act also created a continued on page 5 Jervis Bay Marine Commonwealth environment Park continued legislation reform • a ban on rock platform foraging; • an end to sewage being discharged The association has made a appreciate why the Commonwealth in the bay; and submission in response to the Government must continue to be • regulations on commercial fishing. 'consultation' paper issued by the involved in these national issues. Commercial fishing is a difficult Commonwealth Minister for the The consultation paper restricts issue. Three or four local pilchard Environment, Senator Robert Hill, the environmental matters that the boats and a few individual fishermen on proposed changes to. Commonwealth will have a have been operating out of Commonwealth environment and continuing interest in to a very Huskisson for many years. Their heritage legislation. Given that only limited list. Amazingly this list does operations probably are sustainable. a month was provided for comments not include climate change, However, the bay is often used over on what is to be the most important vegetation clearance and land the mid-summer months by the big review of Commonwealth/State/ degradation. These are three of the fishing trawlers of the east coast Territory environmental legislation major issues in which, by their very tuna long-line fleet that come in for since the early seventies, it is not nature, the Commonwealth must pilchards and other bait fish. Catch difficult to be cynical about the continue to play a leading role. The returns on their operations are hard exercise. states and territories just do not have the political will or resources to take to obtain and there is a prevailing Whilst the association agrees that these matters over. view here that they should go serious consideration should be elsewhere, or use dead bait bought given to overhauling Commonwealth While there can be no doubt that at the fish markets. This is an issue environmental and heritage the creation and management of that is expected to be discussed legislation, it does not agree that the national parks (except in during the consultation phase. Commonwealth Government should Commonwealth territories) have The naval presence in Jervis Bay seek to hand over most of its existing always been and will continue to be - dating back to the first decade of responsibilities to the states and a state responsibilities, the this century—is another major issue. territories, as appears to have been Commonwealth's role through such One hopes the zoning plan is not agreed under the Council of bodies as the World Heritage Unit compromised in any way by defence Australian Governments' Heads of and the old Australian National demands. Agreement on environmental Parks and Wildlife Service has been The present reality is that a responsibilities. crucial to maintain *best practice' and marine park has been created, but By and large, the states and to supplement the meager resources until the zones and their boundaries territories have a far from provided by the states for the have been finalised the beautiful bay satisfactory record in protecting management of their parks. The and its natural legacy remain their natural and cultural environ­ success of the Alps Liaison unprotected. ments and it has only been through Agreement, the good management of The most important decisions for strong Commonwealth interest and the Tasmania Wilderness World Jervis Bay are yet to come. action that any action of significance Heritage parks, Willandra Lakes and the Great Barrier Reef Marine If you would like to participate in has taken place in the past. One has Park, feral animal and weed control the consultation process, contact only to cite Queensland's appalling programs and Land Care all Nowra Office of the NPWS on history of native vegetation clear­ demonstrate the contmuing need for 02 44239800, or Fisheries on ance and the attitudes of Tasmanian a strong Commonwealth presence in 02 44232200. and Western Australian govern­ ments to their native forests to national park funding and program Den Robin coordination. Management issues do not stop at state borders. The Howard Government's NSW tourism strategy continued intention to withdraw from most environmental and heritage matters There is much to applaud in the primary standing when manage­ has received little attention from draft strategy. However much of it ment plans and issues are other than the conservation press. does appear to be driven by the needs determined. The NPWS must not NPA members must follow the of the tourist industry and the allow itself to be captured by the proposals as they start to be debated perceived economic advantage to tourist and other high impact in Parliament and ensure that they NSW of the Olympic Games. Great interests. receive the public scrutiny and care must be taken to allow Timothy Walsh debate they deserve. conservation interests, both government and community, to have Timothy Walsh From Wiluna to Billiluna and back

In August 1997 an organised group including two Canberrans, Eleanor Stodart and Reet Vallack did a round trip from Alice Springs and travelled the Canning Stock Route from Wiluna to Billiluna, south of Halls Creek. Here are Reet's account of the trip and two of Eleanor's sketches.

The Canning Stock Route in we had to drive a few hundred melaleucas that grow in moister Western Australia is one of the most kilometres through Granite Downs areas. isolated tracks in the world. In 1942 Station to join it at Well 5. But we No fuel is available for 1700km, so an army expedition attempted to were also lucky because of the rain it must be pre-ordered and paid for. drive along it and only managed a few weeks before our arrival. It is brought along the Talawana about 350km - less than a quarter Plants in the desert do not Track from Newman, 450km away, of the distance. The first successful necessarily flower seasonally but and collected at the junction of the vehicular crossing was made in wait for suitable rainfall to trigger stock route and the track near Well 1963. Nowadays, hundreds of four- flowering. 23. In the middle of red sand and wheel-drive vehicles traverse it Apart from a few windmills in the spinifex lie vast numbers of 44- every year. southern parts where the route gallon drums with the names of The distance to be covered is crosses cattle properties, another at individuals or companies written on difficult to determine as a number Well 33, and a defunct one whirling them. of wells, or their ruins, are situated at Well 51, there are only two After Well 51, the stock route ends away from the main vehicular track: 'buildings' along the whole track - a at Billiluna, a cattle station which it will vary from 1500km to 1700km. dunny at Durba Springs, the most sent many animals down the stock The vehicles have to be strong and popular camp site, consisting of tin route, and is now an Aboriginal powerful. The track is often stony or walls and a hole in the ground, and settlement where fuel is available. badly corrugated, which can shake a telephone box recently erected From there the Tanami road is both the vehicles and passengers, 4km from Well 33. accessed to return to Alice Springs and if there is anything to fall apart, Three wells - 6, 26 and 46 - have in a couple of days. it will. We had luck as our only been fully restored. Georgia Bore on Our trip, covered about 4500km in problems were with roof racks and the Talawana Track, about 3km 22 days. radio aerials. By the end only two of from Well 23, also has a water The Canning Stock Route owes its our four vehicles could com­ supply. Well 41 supplies good water existence to the introduction of municate. Crossing 800 to 1000 sand with bucket and rope. At Killagurra cattle tick with cattle brought to dunes adds to the need for well- (Well 17) and Wardabunni (Well 38) northern Australia from Batavia in maintained gear boxes and good there is good water in rock holes. 1872. tyres. Places where the water is closer to In 1879 Alexander Forrest was Our trip started in Alice Springs. the surface are marked by the sent to northern Western Australia We drove from there to Uluru, and camped at the Yulara Resort. Then we continued west over the WA border to follow the Gunbarrel Highway, built in 1956-58 for use by the rocket range at Woomera. Sometimes this road was worse than the Canning Stock Route. It took five days to reach Wiluna.

This is where the famous stock route starts, but recent rains had closed the southern part, and Well 27. Drawn 6v Eleanor Stodart to find new pasture lands. He found good grazing country and settlers quickly followed, coming from the Northern Territory, Queensland and even New South Wales. Large Irish families, such as the Duracks, arrived Duracks with thousands of cattle. Cattle tick spread through the herds and came to the new Kimberley pasture lands. Tb keep the infection from southern herds, the WA Government banned the shipping of cattle from the Kimberley to the southern markets. At the beginning of the century the Kimberley cattlemen looked to the newly discovered goldfields near Kalgoorlie Coolgardie Kalgoorlie and Coolgardie as potential markets. Knowing that the tick would not survive the dry desert, they asked the Government to establish a stock route across the inland to a railhead near Wiluna. The Government Surveyor, Alfred Canning, was appointed to survey a possible route. He had already surveyed the 1833km rabbit-proof fence from the south coast to the coast near Broome, and thus had experience of the vast inland deserts. Whenever available, the dense, of the 1760km of the stock route are Canning left from near Wiluna on termite-proof timber of the Desert covered with spinifex. 7 May 1906 and, crossing the Gibson Oak (Allocasuarina decaisneana) There are occasional large lakes Desert and the Great Sandy Desert, was used. which are either flat, dry plains or reached Halls Creek on 30 October. It took an average of eight days to vast expanses of salt. The largest of Lake Disappointment He used local Aborigines to help him build one well. The work party these is Lake Disappointment in finding water, often chaining completed 31 wells and reached named by Frank Harm in 1897 when them overnight to stop them Halls Creek in 14 months. They he followed creek beds to the hoped- escaping. They were rewarded with completed another 20 wells on the for fresh water. food and clothing. In February 1907 return journey, reaching Wiluna in In January 1911 the first small he began his return to the south, April 1910. Some of the wells were herd of 150 bullocks started south reaching Perth in July. On the only a few metres deep, whilst the along the stock route. Tbm Cole, who journey one of the party, Michael deepest reached 32 metres. The came with the next herd some Tobin, was speared to death by an wells averaged 25km apart, which months later, found straying cattle, Thomson Aborigine. was the distance cattle could move a half-eaten horse, and the bodies Shoesmith The main work started in the in one day. of stockmen, Thomson and following year. One hundred tons of A typical herd comprised 500 Shoesmith, and an Aboriginal supplies were loaded on four wagons cattle. Each animal would olrink 50 stockman, Chinaman, near Well 37. and 70 camels. More than 250 goats litres of water. The stockmen had By the late 1920s the well had were taken along as food for the 30 the onerous task of watering the fallen into disrepair and William men. A marble cross was taken to herd. The water would be brought Snell was sent to restore them. He mark Tobin's grave. up with the help of pulleys and built some new wells and restored The men were divided into several cables, usually in canvas buckets 33 of them. Canning, at 70, was groups. The first group would drill that held up to 50 gallons. A camel called out of retirement to complete a bore to supply water. The following or horse would be used to help drag the job. He died in 1936. groups would dig a well around the up the buckets. The last cattle were brought down bore, cut bush timbers for lining the Cattle cannot eat the spiky leaves' the Canning Stock Route in 1958. walls, and set up the iron stays, of spinifex, but they do eat the seed Reet Vallak winches, buckets, troughing, etc. heads, which is fortunate, since most Lower Molonglo Plan: strong on policies, weaker on specifics It's difficult to talk about the lower with places of solitude in a natural The existing leases conferring Molonglo area without resorting to setting1 (p. x) entitlements on lessees which real estate cliches - 'a hidden As with previous draft manage­ conflict with the draft management wonder', 'so near to the suburbs yet ment plans, the NPA has welcomed plan are clearly one of the major you seem to be miles away1 or a 'bit the recognition that the Lower management problems. It is of wilderness on Canberra's Molonglo plan gives to the primacy certainly important that 'any new or doorstep'. of nature conservation over 'public re-negotiated Property Management The cliches are all fairly use of the area for recreation, Agreements' incorporate the appropriate and help indicate why education and research' (p. 3) But provisions of the Management Plan' the NPA has been concerned for once again, often laudable policies {p. 31), but also that where current some time about protecting the area. are inadequately supported by clear leases are inconsistent with the Sadly, the NPA member and statements as to how they will be management plan, they should be freelance botanist, Dr Peter Barrer, implemented and managed. renegotiated. who carried out the survey work Still, after persistent pressure The NPA believes fire manage­ that identified the area's botanical from the NPA and Conservation ment strategies should be incorp­ significance, died before the release Council over the last few years in orated in the draft plan that of the Lower Molonglo River relation to other management plans, specifically protect the fire sensitive Corridor draft management plan. the Lower Molonglo Plan at least vegetation in the nature reserve, for But Peter's work is frequently requires the preparation of an example the Black Cypress Pine referred to in the plan and, implementation plan within 12 (Callitris endlicheri) and Poma­ noUvithstanding the reservations he months of the release of the final derris pallida. There should also be is likely to have had with it, I am management plan. It Svill confirm signs at key public access points sure he would at least have been the priority listing of actions, detail such as Coppins Crossing and pleased to see real evidence to moves the tasks to be performed, set target Stockdill Drive, alerting visitors that to reserve the area for nature dates and define performance fires are not allowed in the corridor. conservation. indicators to measure progress. Apart from grazing and fires, the Before summarising the NPA's Relevant peak community groups major influence on the area's submission on the plan, it might be will be consulted during the environmental values are the water useful first to quote its brief preparation of the Plan' (p. 42) quality and flows of the Molonglo description of the lower Molonglo: One of lower Molonglo's dis­ River. The NPA believes the ACT 'The Lower Molonglo River tinguishing features is that Government should respond to the Corridor is located along the last 12 continued grazing rather than belated, but growing recognition kilometres of the Molonglo River people pressure is the greatest throughout Australia of the need to extending from Coppins Crossing current threat to its integrity. The maintain environmental flows in downstream to the area defined by conservation values have already streams below dams, by examining the Murrumbidgee River Corridor, been significantly affected by more possible changes to the operation of approximately one kilometre above than a century of grazing. Scrivener Dam. A catchment the confluence with the Murrum­ The NPAbelieves it should now be strategy should also be developed, bidgee River. The Corridor provides terminated in the corridor, enabling drawing on the experience in an important habitat for rare and the management emphasis to shift stonnwater management in other threatened species. For example, it from monitoring and controlling the areas of Canberra Scrivener dam. contains the nationally vulnerable impacts, to alternative weed control The draft plan takes a rather shrub, Pomaderris pallida and methods and active encouragement reactive approach to protection of important habitat for the pink-tailed of rehabilitation. However, if grazing significant native vegetation. For legless legless lizard (Aprasia is continuedParapulchella, th e NPA believes all example it says: 'Implement ckella) which has special protection significant areas of native vege­ management strategies to protect status in the ACT. Peregrine falcons leglesstatio lizardn an d other areas of native vegetation populations when breed within the reserve and the conservation value in the nature the need arises' (p. 14, 2.2.4 e). The river contains native fish species, reserve should be isolated from it NPA believes protection strategies platypus and long-necked tortoises. with fencing; the river bank should should be put in place for regionally The Corridor's riverine and gorge be fenced 200 metres from the bank; significant vegetation whether it is environments provide opportunities and there should be specific for both a stimulating low-impact provisions for reducing grazing recreational and remote experience during droughts and after fires. continued on page 9 Lower Molonglo Plan Update on Native Title issues continued under threat or not, recognising that In the March issue of the NPA's about a month, and details of the the best cure is prevention. Bulletin there was an article report will then be given to members When increased public use and summarising developments with the and others interested - including, of access seem, to be having undue native title claims to parts of the course, the claimants. influence on governments in ACT. The article outlined the nature The NPA is also seeking recog­ Australia and therefore on reserve of the claims, the attitude of theACT nition as an interested party by the managers, the draft plan's state­ Government towards them, and National Native Title Tribunal, for ments are refreshing and re­ actions taken by the NPA to consider the purpose of the . tribunal's assuring. For example: 'Manage­ how recognition of a claim to examination of the ACT native title ment of recreation in the Lower Namadgi National Park might affect claims. The tribunal is currently Molonglo River Corridor will aim to future management of the park. The compiling a list of interested parties minimise disturbance to all natural article indicated that the NPA had, for these claims. It will also seek in settings and on-site interpretation through its endorsement of a the near future to clarify, with the will be low-key.. .It may be necessary statement released by the two groups of claimants, the nature to stabilise and realign existing Conservation Council of the South of the claim to be negotiated walking tracks to provide the Eastern Region and Canberra, subsequently with the other recreational settings desired. No expressed support in principle for interested parties. The tribunal will other recreational facilities will be the recognition of native title. then organise a meeting between the placed within the Corridor at this The article noted that the NPA claimants and the interested parties stage' (p. 17). was about to sign a contract with a to discuss the claim and reach an As the current conservation values consultant to prepare a report on agreed settlement. While these steps of the area are partly a product of possible models for the future could be completed by the end of the isolation and difficulty of access, management of Namadgi in the year, progress will depend on increased recreational use should, if event that native title to the park is approaches adopted by the various anything, be discouraged rather recognised. A draft of the report, by interested parties, and this is than encouraged. In that context, Dr Dermot Smyth of Smith and difficult to predict. If a settlement the NPA supports the ban on Bahrdt Consultants, has now been cannot be reached through the swimming, hunting, dogs and received and is being considered by tribunal, however, the claim could camping in the lower Molonglo. the committee. Afinal version of the be referred to the Federal Court. Horse riding should not, in general, report should be produced within Robin Miller be allowed in the nature reserve because of its potential for erosion, trampling and spreading of weeds. However, use of the sewerage The Great Victoria Desert pipeline road as a horse trail would Travelling Blowing be reasonable as might the use of West in BeadelVs tracks Red, wind-borne dust other management trails that avoid We take the desert road Our faces streak and grime areas with sensitive conservation values. Unrolling 'S weet-dreaming' The tall cliffs along the river are a Carpet; rainbow bright beneath the Milky Way natural attraction for rock-climbers. Flowers of every hue Where satellites meander But, as the plan recognises, Or, shining Scampering activities such as rock climbing and Sea of silver green Lizards pause and pose abseiling on the cliffs would be Spinifex and Mallee Dart daintily away totally inappropriate in the raptor pre-breeding and hatching stages Juddering Lumbering from mid-August to October. Endless corrugations An old bull camel looms Otherwise, the NPA would not want Dislocate our joints Then turns, with proud disdain to see regular use of the cliff face by Lightning Tantalising, large groups because of their impact. Flickers in the dark Wholesome the aroma Stephen Johnston, Convenor, The storm - it passes by Fresh damper - crusty; warm Environment Sub-committee Chiming Laughing Wedgebills tease and taunt In the camp fire glow But still remain unseen Contentment spreads its balm

Judith Webster Bibbulmun renewed

PERTH K4L4MUNDA A long-distance walking track in At this time, the south-west Western Australia was northern section was proposed in 1972 as a means of relocated to avoid encouraging people from urban bauxite mining sites, areas to go into the bush. The the southern section . DWZLLINGUP Forests Department took up the idea was extended by nearly and investigated various routes with 150km from Northcliffe the result that the concept of a Perth to coastal Walpole, and (Kalamunda) to Albany track was the Waugal (pictured) initiated. was adopted as track The track that marker. The Waugal was opened as was a powerful myth­ * |?

Gregory Brook Hut. continued on page 11 ' June Saturday daywalk 2B/C Southern Highlands around BundanooNursery n and Fitzroy Falls, interspersed NPA outings program y Creek area Map: Rendezvous Creek l:^H)0 with stops at some of the Devonshire tea houses in the area, This trip Leader: Martin Chalk Phone: 6268 4864 (w), 6292 3502^h) will go ahead whatever the weather. 300kms, $60 per car. Meet at Kambah Village shops for a prompt departure at 8.00am. June — September 1998 12 July Sunday daywalk 1B The walk starts from the Nutsery Swamp carpark in Orroral Valley, Mt Nungar Map: Tantangara 1:25 000 takes in part of the ridge overlooking Rendezvous Creek, and returns Leader: Max Lawrence Phone: 6288 1370 (h), 6272 2124 (w) to the cars via the top end of Nursery Swamp, 60kms, $12 per car. Outings guide Mr Nungar is a notable peak just to the east of the road into Tantangara 21 June Sunday daywalk 2A/B/D Dam from the Snowy Mountains Highway. After a 400 metre climb Day walks carry lunch, drinks and protective clothing. Mt Coree and the Devils Peak Map: Cotter Dam 1:25 000 through the bush we should be in the snow, and weather permitting, Pack walks two or more days, carry all food and camping require- Leader: Matthew Higgins Phone: 6247 7285 enjoying some great winter mountain scenery. Ring leader for bookings ments. CONTACT LEADER BY WEDNESDAY. Crunch frost in the northern Brindabellas this winter. We'll climb and details. This will not be a difficult walk, but arrangements may Car camps facilities often limited or non-existent, Vehicles taken Coree from near Blundell's Arboretum, then walk to Coree Flats, climb depend on road and weather conditions. 300 kms, $60 per car. to site can be used for camping. BOOK EARLY Devils Peak, and return to Blundclls. Some history, a good deal of WITH LEADER. 19 July Sunday daywalk 2A/B great native forest, excellent views from both peaks. Steep climbs, about Canberra's western Hills Map: Canberra Street Directory Other activities include nature rambles, environmental and field guide I4kms. Book with leader, numbers limited. 90kms, $14 per car. studies and ski tours. Leader: Col McAlister Phone: 6288 4171 24 June daywalk A pleasant walk from Duffy to Greenway. We will walk along

Points to note Wednesday walk Cooleman Ridge to Mt Arawang, then across to Mt Neighbour and Leader: Col McAlister Phone: 6288 4171 Please help keep our outings program alive by volunteering to lead outings. McQuoids Hill, Gleneaglcs and finally Urambi Hills. Great views of New leaders are welcome. The outings covenor is happy to suggest locations The June edition of our series of monthly mid-week walks. Phone the Murrumbidgee Valley, the Bullen Range, the Tidbinbillas and suitable for a walk if you do not have something in mind yourself. Feel leader for details, which will be determined nearer the date. beyond. Short car shuffle. Meet at Kambah Village shops at 8.30am. free to send in suggestions for outings to the associations office as soon as 28 June Sunday daywalk 2A/B 22 July daywalk you think of them, with a suggested date. Long Point Map; Caoura 1:25 000 Wednesday walk All persons joining an outing of the National Parks Association of the Leader: Col McAlister Phone: 6288 4171 Leader: Yvonne Bartos Phone: 6231 5699 ACT do so as volunteers in all respects and as such accept sole responsibility for any injury howsoever incurred and the National Parks Association of Meet at the netball centre just past the Dickson traffic lights on The July edition of our series of monthly mid-week walks. Phone the ACT, its office bearers and appointed leaders are absolved from any Northbourne Avenue at 8.00am. Drive to Long Point near Marulan, leader for details, which will be determined nearer the date. liability in respect of injury or damage suffered whilst engaged in any then walk down a track into the Shoalhaven Gorge. Excellent views 26 July Sunday daywalk (half or full day) 2A such outing. of the river on the way down. Lunch on a sandy beach. A long haul Mulligans Flat Map: Canberra UBD The committee suggests a donation of TWENTY cents per kilometre back up to the cars. 250kms, $50 per car. Leader: Bev Hammond Phone: 6288 6577 DIVIDED BYTHE NUMBER OF OCCUPANTS in the car, including 28 June: Final date for bookings for Montague Island Drive down Gundaroo Road Gungahlin to the NSW border (last the driver, (to the nearest dollar) be offered to the driver by each passenger (see 7-8 November below) accepting transport. Drive and walk distances quoted in the program are 5km gravel) to meet at 9.00am. Walk the fence line of theThemada Paddock for expansive views. Morning walkers leave us there. Others approximate distances for return journeys. 5 July Sunday daywalk 3A/B continue in main reserve beside the border, along the old tree-lined Camels Hump and Pierces Trig Map: Tidbinbilla 1:25 000 Murrumbateman-Bungendore road to the woolshed site, 'Mulligans Walks gradings Leader: Mike Smith Phone: 6286 2984 Distance grading (per day) Flat', and return to the start. Meet at Kambah Village shops at 8.30am. This walk starts at the car 1 - up to 10 km park above the koala enclosute in Tidbinbilla Nature Reserve. We will 1 August Saturday daywalk 3A 2- 10 km to 15 km follow the fire trail steadily upwards to the Camels Back saddle, climb Hume and Hovell Track - Wee Jasper Map: H&H Guide 3 - 15 km to 20 km over the Hump and on to Pierces Trig. Return back along the fire Leader: Mike Smith Phone: 6286 2984 4 — above 20 km trail, Great views down into the rugged Cotter Valley and beyond. Meet at picnic area carpark on Uriarra Road just off the Cotter Road Terrain grading 60kms, $12 per car. at 8.00am. Walk the Hume and Hovell Track from the Fitzpatrick A - Road, firetrail, track Trackhead near Wee Jasper to the Logbridge campsite via Mt Wee B - Open forest 11 July Saturday car tour Jasper. Total climb about 700m, all on track. Car shuffle involved. C - Light sctub Southern Highlands Devonshire Tea Crawl 150kms, $30 per car. D - Patches of thick scrub, regrowth Leader: Steven Forst Phone: 6251 6817 (h), 6279 1326 (w) E - Rock scrambling Meet at the netball centre just north of the Dickson lights on F - Exploratory Northbourne Avenue at 8.30am. A drive to visit scenic spots in the 3-9 August seven day packwalk 3AB 26 |^krSt daywalk 19-20 September weekend packwalk IA/B/E/F Nadgee Map: Nadgee 1:25 000 WcSRfay walk Mt Morgan and Half Moon Peak Map: Rendezvous Creek and Leader: Graham Scully Phone: 6230 3352 Leader: David Large Phone: 6291 4830 Yaouk 1:25 000 Day ], drive to Wonboyn and walk to Newtons Beach. Day 2, walk The August edition of our series of monthly mid-week walks. Pbnne Leaden Phil Gatenby Phone: 6254 3094 to Nadgee Lake for base camp followed by days 3-5 walking with leader for details, which will be determined nearer the date. Contact leader by Wednesday 16 September. A walk from the Yaouk daypacks along the coast, including an ascent of Mt Howe for views Valley along the Lone Pine fire trail, up Mt Morgan and across to 30 August Sunday daywalk 3A/B/E of the Victorian border country and Gabo Island. Day 6, return to Half Moon Peak. Total climb of 800m on the first day. 220kms, $44 Mt Palerang Map: Bombay 1:25 000 Wonboyn caravan park for shower, hot meal and overnight stay in per car. Leader: Max Lawrence Phone: 6288 1370 (h), 6272 2124 (w) onsite units, returning to Canberra on day 7. Numbers limited. Phone Meet at Canberra Railway Station, Kingston, at 8.30am. Mt Palerang September/October ten day packwalk leader early for details. is a prominent peak in the Tallaganda State Forest between Captains Heysen Walking Trail 9 August Sunday daywalk 2A Flat and Braidwood. For travellers to the coast it is clearly visible from Contact: Syd Comfort Phone: 6286 2578 Gudgenby, Yerrabi, the Kings Highway. This is your chance to climb it. 130kms, $26 per Syd is thinking of a ten day walk in The Spring along the southern Shanahans Maps: Namadgi NP map and guide car. section of the Heysen Trail, starting from Cape Jervis. He would be Leader: Col McAlister Phone: 6288 4171 pleased to hear from anyone interested in joining the walk. Dates and 5-6 September weekend packwalk 2A/C/D/F Meet at Kambah Village shops at 8.00am. We will crunch morning other details are quite open. Sentry Box Map: Yaouk 1:25 000 frost with the kangaroos at Gudgenby before driving on to Yerrabi to Leader: Martin Chalk Phone: 6268 4864 (w), 6292 3502 (h) 26-27 September weekend packwalk 3A climb to Boboyan Trig for lunch-with-a-view. Then we drive on to This walk is a rerun of rhe one scheduled for April, which had to be Shanahans Mountain for another stroll, enjoying views over the valley Royal National Park Coast Walk Maps: RNP Guides postponed because of the dry conditions. Leave Canberra 8.00am for of the Naas River. Time permitting, a final cuppa at Cuppacumbalong. Leader: David Large Phone: 6291 4830 an exploratory walk to the Sentry Box from Old Boboyan Road South. I20kms, $24 per car. Walk from Otford to Bundeena. An opportunity to experience the Wc will aim to dry camp on the mountain so we can get some good Spring wildflowers and magnificent ocean views in Royal National 16 August Sunday daywalk 3A/B views and photos of the sunset and full moon, and, for the earlybirds, Park just south of Sydney. We will probably depart from Canberra Naas River Map: Yaouk 1:25 000 sunrise. Several historical sires will be visited. Experienced walkers early Saturday morning, arriving Otford mid-morning, ihen walking only, numbers limited. Call leader by preceding Wednesday for details Leader: Frank Clements Phone: 6231 7005 on to camp at Curracurang. On Sunday morning we walk to Bundeena, and bookings. 150kms, $30 per car. Meet at Kambah Village shops at 8.00am. Walk from Boboyan Pines catch a ferry and then a train back to our cars at Otford. Return to carpark to an unusually coloured rock outcrop, climbing around 70 Canberra Sunday evening. Numbers limited, phone leader early for 6 September Sunday daywalk 1A metres, then proceed to Hospital Creek Falls and Hospital Hut, before details and bookings. 500kms, $100 per car. Sherwood Map: Cotter Dam 1:25 000 resuming the Old Boboyan Road and going on to the Naas River. Leader: Doreen Wilson Phone: 6288 5215 7-8 November car camp and cruise IA (if the sea is smooth) Return to carpark via the road. 1 OOkms, $20 per car. Meet at picnic area carpark on Uriarra Road just off the Cotter Road Montague Island and Wagonga Inlet 10Z (if the sea is rough!) 22 August Sunday ski tour 3A at 8.30am. An easy walk on tracks and steps from Blue Range Hut to Leader: Len Haskew Phone: 6281 4268 Four Mile Hut Map: Mt Selwyn Ski Touring Map 'Sherwood' homestead historic site in spring glory with daffodils Firm bookings together with fare are required no later than 28 June. Leader: Steven Forst Phone: 6279 1326 (w), 6251 6817 (h) blooming. We'll also look for early orchids en route. Leisurely lunch On Saturday wc will take the afternoon cruise to Montague looking Contact leader by Wednesday, A daytrip to Four Mile Hut for lunch and interpretation of site, plus opportunity for side trip to Dowling for whales on the way across, and then visit penguin and seal colonies from either Kiandra or Selwyn Quarry, depending on the snow and Trig for the more energetic. Stroll back to cars along the same tracks. on the island itself. The duration of this tour is approximately four weather conditions. 300kms, $60 per car. 35kms. $7 per car. and a half hours. Fares arc $60 for adults and $45 for children under 15. Once booked, fares arc not refundable unless the cruise is cancelled 23 August Sunday daywalk 2A/B 12 September Saturday daywalk 2B because of wcarher conditions. On Saturday evening we will camp, Alpine Track and Bushfold Flats Maps: Williamsdale and Alpine Track Alternative, probably at Mystery Bay. Sunday's three hour cruise will he on the Corin Dam 1:25 000 Honeysuckle area Map: Corin Dam 1:25 000 unspoilt, smooth waters of Wagonga Inlet on an electrically powered Leader: Col McAlister Phone: 6288 4171 Leader: Stephen Johnston Phone: 6258 3833 ferry. There will be a commentary, a shorr walk in some remnant Follow the Alpine Track from the Booroomba Rocks carpark to Veteran Canberra bushwalkerTcd Fleming has identified an excellent rainforest, scones and billy tea. Fares arc $15 and $10, and can be Bushfold Flats, visiting Reads and Russ's huts and the ruins of Dunne's alternative route for the Alpine Track from Booroomba Rocks carpark paid on the day. Should the Montague tour have to be cancelled, the hut. Then rejoin the Alpine Track onTcnnant ridge, and a fairly steep to the Ridge of Stone - features beautiful open forest, some rock slabs area offers a variety of alternatives, ranging from shopping and descent to the Namadgi Visitors Centre. Car shuffle required. Meet and views across Orroral Valley. All offtrack. Phone Icadct for details sightseeing ai Tilba to an Aboriginal tour of the Wallagn Lakes. at the Kambah Village shops at 8.30am. 40kms, $8 per car. by 9 September. 60kms, $ 12 per car. HERE Vale Bibbulman renewed continued It is with regret that we record the The West Australians passing of two association members, still know how to Hela Lindemann and Merle Bailey. work jarrah. Bridge Both will be remembered for their over Balingup Brook. long connection with the association and their active participation in the walks program particularly diiring the 70s. But their walking styles were very different. Merle was noted for always arriving for walks very well dressed and for her great interest in everything along the way. This led to frequent halts to investigate with the consequences of her being a 'tail-ender' and a sometime concern to leaders anxious to see a walk through. On the other hand, Hela was a regular leader of walks with a very direct style of navigation — follow the compass bearing regardless of terrrain, vegetation or other obstacles. She had a great interest in going into the bush and was always very helpful to new members. Hela left Canberra for the South Coast in the mid 1980s, pursued her interest in bushwalking there and died in Dalmeny on 16 January 1998. Merle continued to live in Canberra until her death on 13 March 1998.

Syd Comfort vertical profiles of the route. availability of water would need to Distances between campsites and be considered. other major points are clearly Just to hand is a notice of a tabulated. proposed 'Big Bibbulman Walk 98' New location for General My week's walk on the track in the which will be part of the official Meetings jarrah country south of Collie in celebrations to open the whole new October 1997 confirmed that the Bibbulman Track. An end-to-end Commencing with the July meeting, design and construction of the track walk will be conducted starting to NPA general meetings will be held and camp sites were of a high coincide with the official opening of in Forestry House, Yarralumla. standard and showed that the the track on 13 September 1998 and Many readers will remember this as objectives of this renewal of the ending in Kalamunda on 1 the building in which the Guide to track were being achieved. I was November. Details are available the Reptiles and Frogs of the ACT also very impressed by the from the Bibbulman Track Project was launched by the Chief Minister enthusiasm of track workers I met Office (08) 9334 0265. in December last. By making the on the way. change, the committee hopes that References: Walkers will need to consider the some of the problems of parking, noise and glare experienced time of year best suited to the A Guide to the Bibbulman Track, previously will be reduced. The new sections of the track they plan to Department of Conservation and location will provide an attractive cover. Spring was an ideal time for Land Management. the section I covered, with setting for meetings and offers good Landscope, issue no. not known, comfortable walking conditions and facilities and convenient parking. Department of Conservation and the forests and wildflowers a truly The meeting time of 8pm remains Land Management. wonderful sight. At other times, unchanged. Mike Smith has applied his not inconsiderable navigational temperatures, rainfall, fire risk and Article and photos, skills to preparing the map of the Syd Comfort site enclosed in this bulletin. Walking with a 'GPS'

Setting off, half a century ago, on a guesswork of what lay ahead, could bushwalk of one to three weeks be sorted out on the dining room duration, through areas of which one table. The availability of these maps had only hearsay information, or, at increased the popularity of the best, maps of a small scale could bushwalking and it is from this be hazardous. These maps would period that tracks on popular routes have only rudimentary information became established for novices to of prominent features and large readily find their way. The areas of white spaces, which could availability of light-weight comp­ inspire over-confidence in one's asses, pedometers and altimeters ability to make a safe traverse, when made for more precise navigation there was little real knowledge of the and with it some certainty of One hundred and twenty years of area. There were, however, benefits arriving at the planned objective. bushwalking experience examine a in being able to read the topography Satellite navigation aids used GPS receiver. Bert Bennett (I) and and an early appreciation was during the Gulf War were Reg Alder. Photo, Syd Comfort readily acquired, in recognising miniatured to the size of hand-held intervals. The number of satellites natural routes and making precise pieces and released for public use, acquired, depends on the topography use of the compass and sun in but with built-in random error at the location. Open topped trees maintaining the direction of a factors from the satellite impose a little restriction provided selected route. transmitters, to prevent their use for there is not a dense ground cover. If Myles Dunphy and other precision terrorist bombing sufficient horizon satellites are bushwalkers, in the 1930s, drew up activities. This random error has acquired, altitude is displayed to 1/2 inch - 1 mile maps from parish now been reduced, and for all give 3D navigation and, if not, a 2D and tourist maps upon which they practical bushwalking purposes an display for a coarser navigation. added their own and fellow error of 15-75 metres can only mean Altitude readings take a little time bushwalkers' exploratory exper­ that you are where you hoped to be. to acquire because of the one second iences of the rugged terrain of the In the passage of a few years the cost interval of transmission and the Blue Mountains and the Burra- of a hand held Global Positioning calculations involved. gorang Valley. The publication of the System (GPS) has come down, with In practical terms, only 3 decimal army 1 inch - 1 mile map of the competition, to one fifth of what the places for grid reference, can be read Katoomba area was a great advance, initial cost was. The size now is from a 25 000 scale map with the with contours instead of the hatched comparable to a small mobile phone 4th place approximated. The grid ridges of the sketch maps. Other and with the weight of 4 AA batteries references are entered into the army maps were available of some only 270gms. As a precaution, a memory with an allocated 5 letter of the coastal areas around Sydney. spare set of batteries and compass or figure as waypoints according to The war provided a great impetus should always be carried. the straight line routes to be taken. to map the coastal belt and these A GPS can be used anywhere in Distances can only be given as were a mixture of contoured and the world to give latitude and straight lines. When GO-TO is coloured maps, available at two longitude to 1/10 second and a grid activated, the heading required is shillings each from selected outlets. reference to 5 decimal places. It is activated with the actual heading, A post-war project was to map the capable of storing several hundred and all that is needed is for these whole of Australia. The first maps waypoints (positions) in selected figures to be the same and to watch suitable for bushwalking were to the groups (routes), map the track whether a vertical line leans to the 1:100 000 scale but the scale caused followed or to be followed, and give left or right. You then need to correct some surprises. At times when continuous direction and the to the vertical position as necessary. attempting to make a traverse, cliffs correction needed to go to a and waterfalls appeared because the waypoint. The distance to go is On approaching within about contour interval was too large for displayed, as well as speed, with an 300m of a waypoint, a message is them to be drawn in. The 1:50 000 estimated time to cover the route flashed on the screen to draw scale maps, although contoured, and an arrival time. Time is attention to its nearness. If a lacked some track detail, which at continuously displayed as well as deviation is made from the original times could cause some confusion. sunrise and sunset being available. straight line between waypoints, the It was not until the 1:25 000 series bearing to restore direction is Waypoints can be marked and of maps became available in the automatically calculated, so large stored at anytime on route, for back­ 1970s that the real benefit to objects can be walked around and tracking. Corrections of data from bushwalkers came into being. The the satellites are made at one second continued on page 13 Speaker tells about 'a pinch of time'

This was the title of a fascinating Another insight given to us by Ian great dangers in the arrogance of and absorbing address by well was the sheer chance that we are using 'our time' as the norm. This is known local, author, broadcaster here, 'here and now7. We could easily a bit like bacteria on the body living and educator, Ian Fraser, at the have been *here' at other stages of and dying in a few hours and seeing February General Meeting. Australia's history that are well no change in their environment, and Ian has considered the relativity within the human history of the conduding therefore that there is no of time over a long period and firmly area, - in the times of the temperate change. It leads to the assertions believes that there are particularly rainforests, or when this area was a that rabbits, starlings, mynas, pines, good reasons for nature and cold, treeless, windy steppe. willows or brumbies are a 'natural' environmental conservation to Nor does evolution stop - it part of evolution because 'they have ponder the nature of time. This is continues. So it is pure chance that always been here', ie, as long as I not an easy task as the time involved dictates with which other organisms can remember. This short-term view is far beyond the human scale. Ian we share the world - apart from leads to assertions about managing graphically portrayed evolutionary those whose company we have forest fire regimes when we haven't time with a 10 metre long timeline dispensed with. One of the been round long enough to see even representing the age of the earth. On mechanisms that has influenced the a single natural cycle of the fire this line a point 9.5 metres from the distribution of species has been the regime of a wet forest like the Alpine start denotes the rise of the drifting apart of continents. And Ash in the Brindabellas. dinosaurs and a point between 5mm this, as Ian said, is still happening A quite different danger may even and 10mm from the end represents and in another few million years (not come from accepting, at least in the time when the oldest human long on the time scale) we shall be principle, the reality of time and ancestors appear. And, as Ian said, well and truly embedded in Asia. evolution — and using it as an excuse "That represents the perspective Being prepared to face up to time that, because extinction is natural, from which we would presume to provides us with the ability to evolution will fix things up', so that manage the place!" understand the concept of ecological we needn't worry. 'Natural' extinct­ Ian's overview is necessary if we refuges, which Ian believes are the ions occur in Australia at the rate of are to grasp the immensity of time, key to environmental conservation about one every 7000 years. We have and the minutely insignificant space in Australia. For instance, during managed to extinguish bird species that we have occupied. Because as the most recent glaciation much of at about 1000 times that rate! he said, *Tf we forget that, then we south-eastern Australia was covered Justifying premature extinction is have no hope of managing the place by cold treeless steppes. Species like justifying the murder of a child properly, because we have no hope which had been confined to high cold simply because that child will grow of understanding it - and being us — mountains now spread across the old and die anyway. well be sure that we do, and get it landscape - mountain pygmy Ian also spent some time pointing wrong." Ian's proposition is that if possums and alpine plants were out to us the joy and wonder of we do not have this perspective of widespread. When glaciation ended, evolution using such examples as: time we cannot conceive how these cold climate specialists again • the evolution of the feather from evolution can work. retreated to the alpine zones. From reptilian scales; here they will spread out again during the next glaciation, which is • other flight adaptations of birds due quite soon — but they can only like losing teeth to reduce weight Walking with a 'GPS' do so if we allow them to survive the and hollowing out bones for continued here and now. If they do not, there lightness while strengthening the new direction re-established. If will be no source of species to them internally with a superlight the direction taken is grossly populate the landscape the next lattice; inaccurate, a message is flashed as time around - which makes the • the marvels of orchid pollination; to the bearing to be followed, to re­ questions of greenhouse and • delayed implantation in kanga­ establish the route. managing the ski industry even roos and seals; and A GPS may not be necessary to more pressing. And much the same navigate, but it takes some can be said of rainforest refuges and • the wonders of migratory species. guesswork out of it and provides a the mound springs, the only refuges Ian left the last word with the certainty of location. As Paddy Pallin for many inland aquatic species. English engineer-poet Henry Austin maintained, he was 'never truly losf; There is another aspect, too. Not Dobson - Time goes you say? Ah no! a GPS would ensure at any time that only is there great satisfaction in Alas, Time stays, we go.' you were never lost. seeing the world as it really is, but Len Haskew Reg Alder Gordon's glory in granite: McKeahnie Trig

Many of our nineteenth century trig stations in the ACT have been replaced by more modern 'quadropod' steel trigs. Surviving original trigs consequently have considerable heritage significance, even if some have lost their survey function. McKeahnie Trig is an original. Located on the range between Kangaroo Creek (ie, Corin Dam Road.) and the upper Orroral Valley, the site is in fairly rugged bushland typified by Snow Gums, Mountain Gums, Cassinia and impressive outcrops of rounded granite boulders. It can be reached either from the Kangaroo Creek bridge on the Corin road, or (a no doubt easier route and the one I have used) from McKeahnie Trig. Photo, Ron Jarman near the Square Rock walking track.

Trig stations such as this one were across the ground and so were able was very difficult of access'. Today installed as part of the trigono­ to draw accurate maps. there is no way that you can get onto metrical survey of NSW last century. McKeahnie Trig was built by the boulder (unless you're some sort Trig stations enabled precise Surveyor R.C. Gordon and party in of super-human climber), so bearings to be read between stations September 1896. Gordon (who also Gordon's men must have made and by virtue of these a system of built Gudgenby Trig in 1896 and ladders from saplings in order to triangles was able to be spread Franklin in 1898) travelled to the build the trig. The trig consisted of across the colony. Using the site via the Orroral Valley. From the the usual vast stone cairn topped by principles of trigonometry, surveyors end of the track on the headwaters a mast and metal vanes. A major were able to calculate from these on Orroral Creek he seems to have task would have been getting the triangles ever increasing distances made a blazed line to the trig site. stones up to the man/men piling the He obviously had a hard time cairn on the top of the boulder. The getting into Orroral, writing that vanes were stamped with the name 'the roads in and out of Orroral are 'McKeahnie' (in honour of the nearly impossible being very rough grazing family of Orroral and for vehicles'. With light loads and elsewhere in present day Namadgi) powerful horses Gordon believed it and were painted black and white. would be possible to get vehicles Gordon then read bearings to within a mile or so of the trig, and numbers of other trigs. It is notable from there pack horses could be used that in regard to Bimberi he to get almost to the trig, (he doesn't remarked 'snow over pile'. actually say in his report how he got I first visited the trig in July 1997 to the trig.) Gordon's party camped with Ian McLeod. The cairn was in the headwaters of Orroral Creek, intact but the pole had long since though they also found water in the broken and the vanes could not be small swamp (which you will cross found. We saw stumps and axe- if you come from the Square rock felled trees and concluded these route) at the north-eastern foot of must have been cut by the original the trig hill. party to create visibility around the Gordon described his trig as being trig. Thus there could not have been built 'upon a very rocky prominent a major bushfire over the hill since hiir. The trig is marked by a plug 1896, though there are some small set in top of huge granite boulder, fire scars. Vane from McKeahnie Trig. the highest part of the hill and which Photo, Russell Wenholz continued on page 15 Gordon's glory in PARKWATCH Government has yet to commit itself to any formal process for assessing granite continued Islands in the wind the environmental impact of the scheme. Subsequently Mick Kelly told me Naples, December4,1997. The World he had found the vanes. So in April Heritage Committee announces that The ACF says the scheme 1998 I re-visited the site with Australia's three subantarctic includes: Russell Wenholz and Ron Jarman. islands - Heard, McDonald and • construction of one to three dams We searched for the vanes and Ron, Macquarie — have at last been in the upper Fitzroy and Margaret climbing up amongst boulders inscribed on the World Heritage list. catchments. The dam at Diamond adjacent to the trip boulder, found These remote, windswept specks Gorge would flood nearly 1000 the vanes lying on the granite just of land are among the wildest places square kilometres; west of the trig boulder. So Russell left on earth. Isolated in a freezing • construction of an earthen canal and I climbed up too. There was no ocean, pounded by mountainous of up to 500kms to transport the sign of paint on the vanes, but then waves, they provide a haven for an water from Fitzroy Crossing to paint would probably wear off after astonishing concentration of wildlife. Shamrock and Nita Downs a century of blizzards! So the vanes The Tasmanian Government stations; are probably the original ones. A (which has jurisdiction over • free allocation of water number of bushwalkers have Macquarie Island) and the Federal entitlements to WAI for re-sale to pencilled their names onto the Government, now give the irrigators (capital value $600 vanes. The earliest signatures date subantarctic islands much greater million or more); from 6 April 1953 when the 1st priority. • conversion of large area of pastoral Canberra Rover Crew visited. This A Naval task force moved to leases and vacant crown land to would imply that the post gave way prevent illegal fishing for freehold to support 1/4 million some short time before that, because Patagonian Toothfish near Heard hectares of irrigated agriculture before that the vanes were not and McDonald, impounding two (mainly cotton); and, accessible to pencil-wielding walkers vessels, and there are signs that the • construction of a weir at Fitzroy or anyone else. Look closely at the old, abandoned base at Atlas will be Crossing to lift the water level for section of the pole to which the vanes cleaned up. Also, several million gravity-fed diversion into the are attached and you will see how dollars have been earmarked for canal. much timber has been removed by ridding Macquarie island of cats. The proposal is fiercely opposed by 102 years of weathering. The descendants of escapees from the local Aboriginal population and McKeahnie Trig is worth the walk, sealing vessels, there are at present environmentalists. an estimated 500 cats roaming the but if you go there please respect the Sustainable Times, March, 1998. vanes. If you keep your eyes open island, posing a serious threat to you will find, en route from the wildlife. If all goes well, Macquarie National parks no longer Square Rock side, a survey mark (in should be cat-free in five years. forever the form of a line of stones or Wilderness News, Summer 1998. The principle that a national park rockspit) on a granite slab about a is forever has been thrown out of the third of the way to the trig. Needless The Fitzroy 'dammed' window by the Victorian to say the views from the trig area A scheme to dam the largest river in Government which last November are very good indeed (providing you the Kimberleys has been called the sneaked legislation through are prepared to climb up some 'Franklin of the North' by the Parliament to excise 285 hectares boulders). Australian Conservation Found­ from the Alpine National Park near Perhaps therell be an NPA walk ation (ACF). If the Fitzroy is Falls Creek. The land, which had to the site at some time, during dammed, it will extinguish native been added to the park in 1989 and which we can all toast — in brandy title in the area, flood vast areas of which contains prime pygmy of course - Gordon's glory in granite. spectacular country and threaten possum habitat, is to be given - the habitat of the rare Gouldian without cost — to the adjacent Falls Matthew Higgins Finch. Creek Alpine Resort. The excision (with thanks to John Hutchinson, Western Agricultural Industries was tacked on to the end of a bill Bathurst, who supplied a copy of (WAI), which proposes the dam, has establishing a new management Gordon's report) received approval from the WA State authority for alpine resorts in Cabinet to carry out a feasibility Victoria and, when exposed by study for the dam and irrigation conservationists, was described by project. A memorandum of a spokesperson for the Conservation understanding between WAI and the Minister Marie Tehan as a gift to WA Government was scheduled for provide for the long-term signing last December but did not development needs'. In what would eventuate. A management plan for appear to be an attempt at the region does not exist and the continued on page 19 Trekking in Seram, Eastern Indonesia

Looking back over the stern of our motor canoe at the almost vertical 3000m high mountains of Manusela National Park, it was hard to believe the feat that Tom and I had just completed. In the space of only a few days we had crossed the main range into a remote intermontane valley which hid the Brigadoon-like Manusela village after which the park is named. Manusela National Park is on the island of Seram, one of about 1000 islands in Maluku (Moluccas) Province in Eastern Indonesia - the fabled Spice Islands, and the women who pick and dry the cloves and nutmeg in the sun are the original Binaiya-Merkele Range. spice girls. Our trek began in the south coast village of Mosso, from where local guides led us up steep foothills of cultivated land where clove pickers called out from the tree tops. We then reached the edge of the wilderness and followed tunnel-like tracks through dense jungle, crossed pristine mountain streams, rested under ancient rock shelters and then climbed unrelentingly up precipitous limestone gorge. Trekking in Seram The Tasmanian Trail continued

The new Tasmanian Trail had its shorter, more relaxing sojourn. The official opening in September 1997, experience provided by the trail is by the Governor of Tasmania, Sir recreational, cultural, historical and Guy Green. The trail is a long­ nature-based. distance multi-purpose recreational The Tasmanian Trail Association trail extending from Devonport on is a non-profit incorporated entity the northern coast of Tasmania to which has a charter to promote and Dover in the south. The Western manage the trail. The Association is Tiers, the Great Lakes area and the in partnership with government and valleys of the Derwent and Huon private landowners. It relies on the Rivers are included in the trail, which has a total length of 477 kms. From its conception, the Tasmanian Trail was intended for use by walkers, mountain bikers and horse riders. Therefore it differs from other trails that have usually started as walking tracks and are therefore A Nuaulu man ofManusela restricted in use. The trail village. links up existing forestry roads, fire tracks and country roads and occasionally crosses We slept the first night in a shelter private land. Nearly all of the constructed of timber poles and fern trail - 90 per cent - is on some leaves, before a steep climb through form of made road or track. mossy cloud forest to a high pass The trail passes through a with panoramic views back to the wide range of environments coast. We continued down a long, including some of the most ridge-top track, sighting Manusela scenic and historical areas of goodwill of government agencies village in the distant valley below. Tasmania. Through forests and through a memorandum of There we met the proud and self- farmlands, across highland plateaus understanding and through an sufficient Nuaulu people who in a and past the buildings and bridges occupation permit with Forestry time-honoured tradition cultivated of Australia's oldest towns, the Tasmania. The association has a the valley floor, fished the streams Tasmanian Trail provides a journey licence agreement with the Hydro­ and hunted in the forests to supply rich in cultural and natural electric Commission which allows their daily needs. heritage. access and camping. These formal With rainy weather setting in we The trail has been divided into five agreements with government were to spend two days in Manusela sections to correspond to the nature agencies and the goodwill of some learning much about the customs of of the land through which the trail 30 private landowners, are integral the local people, before the return traverses. Each section has been to the success of the trail. journey across the mountains. The further divided into stages which The association has produced a trek seemed all too short, but the average 32km in length. At the end guide book, The Tasmanian Trail memories of misty cloud forests, of each stage a camp site has been Guide Book, which gives walkers, stark limestone pinnacles and the provided. mountain bike riders and horse lost villages of Seram's rugged The Tasmanian Trail experience riders all the information to travel interior will stay with us forever. aims to reach audiences not catered all or part of the trail. The guide Words and photographs by for in national parks and reserves, book is available from the Robyn Barker and potentially easing the pressure on association at: Tom Heinsohn these areas. It often passes through The Tasmanian Trail Association, small towns, thus allowing people to PO Box 99 SANDY BAY TAS 7005. use as little or as much of the trail as they like. It can offer a long­ Greg Lewis distance walking experience or a Book Review Our Patch; Field Guide to the Flora of the Australian Capital Region as Photographed in the Aranda Bushland. Produced by the Friends of the Aranda Bushland.

A quick first reaction to this guide could well be "What, $15 for this little thing!" A closer look, however, soon reveals that it is very good value. The small size is deliberate, making it easy to carry around, but within its 83 pages are 300 good quality photographs. Just the cost of setting it up for printing would have been large, too large to have been carried by the print run for a local market. Not only has an enormous amount of voluntary work gone into the preparation, but grants from Environment Australia assisted. This is a field guide for the interested person without botanical knowledge. The photographs, plus a few scattered snippets of text, are the only aids to identification. The dependence on the photographs and the use of different colours and fonts for the different items in the captions Eucalyptus rvteda make this a very easy book to skim through £am, Myrtaosae quickly. Readers will find it difficult to distinguish between a few of the wattles and Biids arse! leaves between the egg and bacon peas on the basis of photographs, but flowering times, indicated by the month in which each photograph was taken, will help, and one can take a low powered magnifying glass to examine details of the leaves in the photographs just as one would do to examine the flowers themselves. Species are arranged by family in approximately standard botanical order. Most have two photographs, one showing the overall shape of the plant and the other a close-up of the flower; a few, such as some grasses and sedges have only one; and the eucalypts have three to five so that the whole tree, and perhaps buds, flowers, gumnuts, juvenile and adult leaves or bark are shown. The book concludes with two maps, one of the main understorey vegetation and the other of the canopy vegetation for the whole block between the suburb of Aranda and Bindubi. Caswell and William Hovell Drives, thus including Smith's Paddock as well as the Aranda Bushland. The layout works well. On one page only I was not immediately sure which caption we are to have this protected as part of Canberra Nature Park, belonged to which photo. There is an index to right on our doorsteps! The photographs taken for the book and both common and scientific names. the specimens collected for identification now reside in the As well as functioning as a field guide, this National Herbarium. book graphically demonstrates the diversity of Thank you, Friends of Aranda Bushland, for the many hours the flora in the Aranda Bushland, from the snow you have spent being economically irrational in producing this gum remnant of a once wider frost hollow fringe, gem. The Canberra community is the richer for it. to showy wattles and delicate orchids. How rich Eleanor Stodart PARKWATCH The bad news? the lease for the The Merry Beach Caravan Park (also at National parks no longer for the northern end of the park) is to Conservation ever continued be renewed. The incredible story deception, the land was described in behind this, of over 20 years of Council the bill as former State Electricity bluffing by the lessee and successive governments, will be told in a future Commission of Victoria property; no The Conservation Council of the issue of the journal. mention was made of the fact that South-East Region and Canberra is it had since been absorbed into the National Parks Journal. the peak conservation body of the national park. April, 1998. region and promotes the broad As it had never been anticipated environmental interests of the area. that the national park status of a It represents over 35 community and piece of land - status which under conservation groups in the ACT and the National Parks Act explicitly Wilderness retreat in far the south-east region of NSW. 'guarantees' protection for all time East Gippsland The council's aims are to maintain — would ever be revoked, there is no and, where necessary, enhance the formal process for doing so. As a For sale quality of our environment, result, the Government was able to 200 acres of temperate woodland particularly, its urban, rural and insist that the excision did not with a 30 inch rainfall. Directly wilderness aspects. Representatives breach any official procedures - adjoining the magnificent Rodger- of member organisations meet there aren't any A protest meeting River-Snowy National Park, with quarterly to discuss issues and set in December called at short notice the pristine Bowen Creek flowing policy. A board-comprising the by the Victorian National Parks through it. Close to Errinundra executive officers and nine members Association overflowed the hall in National Park, McKillops Bridge, specialising in different environ­ which it was held and resolved to and with direct access to Mount mental areas, meets fortnightly. In lobby for the restoration of the land Tower-Deddick firetrails, this addition, working groups focus on to the Alpine National Park. Until beautiful block has a north facing log specific issues. The council employs now, however, the Government has cabin, which is completely secluded a director and office manager and remained unmoved. and visited by wildlife. The natural although receiving funding from the Conservationists suspect that this bushland is protected by a Covenant ACT and Commonwealth Govern­ is only the first of a number of with the Victoria Nature Trust. ments, relies heavily on community excisions planned by the Kennett Ideal for field naturalist, writer, support. Government, which is also at bushwalker, and offering excellent The council acts as an advocacy present redrafting the State's group camping possibilities. Has group, researching issues, present­ National Parks Act. been a base for Field Naturalist ing submissions, lobbying govern­ Wild, Autumn, 1998. clubs. Asking price $70,000. ments and arranging public meetings. Public campaigns on Contact Fiona McIlroy on The good news and the bad 6254 8149. major issues are organised on news matters of significance and action is The good news is that the 41-year- initated on emerging environmental issues. The council provides support old leasing of the Pretty Beach New Members Caravan Park is to terminate on 31 to member groups and individuals May. The caravan park is within Ben and Veronica and represents community interests Murramarang National Park, at the Selinger Garran on advisory committees such as bush fire councils and the Natural northern end, and the NPWS will Kay Stoquart Hackett take over from the present lessee. Heritage Trust. In conjunction with The renamed Pretty Beach Camp is Sarah Howard Garran the Environment Centre the Council publishes 'Sustainable Times'. to be redesigned, based on extended Helen Kemmis Chapman day use. Conservation Council of the South- Ian and Judy The proposed layout has many East Region and Canberra (Inc) improvements. However, the Wardlaw O'Connor Kingsley Street, Acton existing eight cabins are not to be Ken Watt Gordon removed (as canvassed in the 1994 GPO Box 1875 Canberra ACT 2601 Draft Plan of Management) but Russell Wenholz Holt Tel:(02) 6247 7808 replaced and resited out of sight Lesley Forward Jerra­ from the beach. Roofed accommod­ bomberra Fax:(02) 6248 5343 ation in-park is contrary to NPA Email [email protected] policy. The 105 permanent vans are John McWilliam Fisher to be phased out over 5 years. Peter Black Syd Comfort Activity June J~Y August September Committee Meeting Thurs 4 Thurs 2 Thurs 6 Thurs 3 Namadgi Sub-committee Thurs 9 Thurs 10 Environment Sub-committee Thurs 11 Thurs 13 General Meetings Thurs 18 Thurs 16 Thurs 20 Thurs 17 (Griffin Centre) (Forestry House) (Forestry House) (Forestry House) Montague Island bookings close Sunday 28

Further Details Committee - Secretary Namadgi Sub-Committee -Robin Miller 6281 6314 (h)6201 2191 (w) Environment Sub-Committee - Stephen Johnston 6258 3833(h) 6264 2035 (w)

General meetings The June meting will he held in Room I, GrifFn Centre. July, August and September meetings in Forestry House and the October meeting at the Australian Reptile Centre. All meetings commence at 8pm. Thursday 18 June. NSW National Parks and Wildlife Service Nature Tourism and Recreation Strategy. Graeme Worboys, Regional Manager for the South-Eastern Region will discuss this new Strategy which is being developed for NSW National Parks. Thursday 16 July. Some European environments and the place of humans in the environment. Philand Leomnie Bubb have travelled, walked and skied extensively in the European Alps. We will see something of their experiences and hear of national parks, reserves, rural wllages and building development. Phil will also tell us something of his views of the human place in the environment. (at Forestry House) Thursday 20August. (Annual General Meeting) Flinders Island. Unspoilt, unexploited and unbelievable, or so the ads say. Find out if this is correct when John Webster tells us about his recent trip to the island. (at Forestry House) Thursday 17 September. Tidbinbilla Nature Reserve. Geoff Underwood, Wildlife Officer at Tidbinbilla, will talk to us about thestatus and conservation ofthe endangered Brush-tailed Rock Wallabyand Tidbinbilla NatureResem's involvement in the recovery program. (at Forestry House) Thursday 15 October. The Australian Reptile Centre. Ross Bennett, the author of our Reptiles and Frogs of the ACT will host this meeting at his recently opened display and education building in Gold Creek. Members will be provided with a unique opportunity to inspect the centre with Ross and to hear an entertaining and enlightening presentation on reptiles. (The Centre is Iocated in O'Hanlon Place, Gold Creek. A map will be enclosed in the September Bullelin).