Vanity Fair: the Last Twenty-Five Years
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VANITY FAIR: THE LAST TWENTY-FIVE YEARS A THESIS SUBMITTED TO THE GRADUATE SCHOOL IN PARTIAL FULFILLMENT OF THE REQUIREMENTS FOR THE DEGREE MASTER OF ARTS IN PUBLIC RELATIONS BY NICOLE R. HENDRICKS ADVISOR: DAVID E. SUMNER, Ph.D. BALL STATE UNIVERSITY MUNCIE, INDIANA FALL 2009 CONTENTS Chapter 1. INTRODUCTION...…………………………………………………………………......…1 2. LITERATURE REVIEW…………………………………………………………......……4 Magazine Covers…………………………………………………………………...4 Celebrities………………………………………………………………………....11 3. A History of Vanity Fair...………………………………………………………………....15 4. METHODOLOGY…………………………………………………………………………..25 Sumner’s Study…………………………………………………………………….25 Type of Image……………………………………………………………………....28 Theme of Image………………………………………………………………….....30 5. RESULTS...………………………………………………………………….………...….….32 6. DISCUSSION/CONCLUSION..…………………………………………………………..…34 Gender………………………………………………………………………………35 Nationality………………………………………………………………………….36 Race…………………………………………………………………………………38 Number of People on Cover………………………………………………………...39 Theme……………………………………………………………………………….39 Limitations………………………………………………………………………….46 Implications………………………………………………………………………....47 Future Research……………………………………………………………………..48 REFERENCES..……..……………………………………………………………………………50 Appendix 1. Data Comparison Tables…………………………………………………………………….52 2. Codebook……………………………………………………………………….…..............59 i Chapter 1 INTRODUCTION The purpose of this study was to analyze the cover images of Vanity Fair magazine from the years 1983 to 2008. The study attempted to determine if Vanity Fair’s covers have become more focused on celebrities over time. This study analyzed how Vanity Fair defines a celebrity. An additional aspect of this research was to determine the number of politically based cover images versus the number of celebrity- based cover images. Sammye Johnson (2007) wrote, “In 2005, when W. Mark Felt, who was assistant director of the Federal Bureau of Investigation during the Nixon Administration (1969 to 1974), decided to reveal that he was Watergate’s ‘Deep Throat’ after keeping his identity a secret for more than thirty years, he turned to Vanity Fair.” The periodical has been a key player in the reporting and analysis of history-making events for decades. With writing that pushes the envelope, daring pictures, impressive cultural insight, thought-provoking articles, and memorable features of the most influential people in the world, Vanity Fair has become, by many estimates, magazine journalism’s acknowledged proprietor of modern society, power, and personality (Friend, 2009). Vanity Fair contributors have been talented from the beginning. In its early years of publication, Vanity Fair promoted the work of modern artists like Picasso and Brancusi. The magazine distinguished itself by using illustrators like Miguel Covarrubias and Paolo Garretto. Vanity Fair also published essays by new literary talents like Dorothy Parker and Gertrude Stein to D. H. Lawrence and Aldous Huxley. Annie Leibovitz and Herb Ritts are considered to be some of the best photographers of all time and have made significant contributions to Vanity Fair (Friend, 2009). On April 25, 2008, the televised entertainment program Entertainment Tonight reported that 15-year-old Miley Cyrus had posed topless for a photo shoot with Vanity Fair. The photos showed Cyrus without a top, her bare back exposed but her front covered with a bedsheet. The photo shoot was taken by photographer Annie Leibovitz. The full photograph was published with an accompanying story on The New York Times' Website on April 27, 2008. On April 29, 2008, The New York Times clarified that though the pictures left an impression that she was bare- breasted, Cyrus was wrapped in a bedsheet and was actually not topless. Some parents expressed outrage at the nature of the photograph, which a Disney spokesperson described as "a situation [that] was created to deliberately manipulate a 15-year-old in order to sell magazines (Barnes, 2008). In 2008, Vanity Fair celebrated its 95th anniversary. The magazine celebrated its 25th as a re-launched publication. To showcase the photographic heritage of the magazine, London’s National Portrait Gallery mounted an exhibition, “Vanity Fair Portraits, 1913 to 2008,” which opened on February 14, 2008. The exhibition traveled to the Scottish National Portrait Gallery, in Edinburgh, the Los Angeles County Museum of Art, and the National Portrait Gallery of 2 Canberra, Australia. In the fall of 2008, the magazine produced a special anniversary issue and a hardcover book, Vanity Fair: The Portraits. 3 Chapter 2 LITERATURE REVIEW In order to produce understanding and analyze results on this topic, it is important to identify and describe applicable scholarly research. The academic literature covers a wide variety of topics. These include print media, magazine cover content, celebrities, advertising, and American culture. In addition, it is important to cite research and studies that support and challenge the aforementioned areas. Magazine Covers New York Magazine’s March 24th cover received The American Society of Magazine Editors highest honor when it won the 2008 Cover of the Year award. The cover featured former New York Governor Eliot Spitzer dressed in a navy suit and red tie. He was smiling with his hands clasped loosely. The cover appeared simple. What made the cover especially unique was “artist Barbara Kruger’s graphic interpretation [literally written] on Henry Leutwyler’s photograph.” The word “BRAIN” was written in a bright-red box with an arrow pointing to the area of Spitzer’s anatomy that seemed to have been thinking for him when he spent thousands of government dollars on high-priced call girls. There was no headline on the cover of that particular issue. It wasn’t needed. This particular cover had all the elements magazine editors strive to attain. To look back at the 3-pronged approach De Leon noted in his book Self-Exposure: Human-Interest Journalism and the Emergence of Celebrity in America (1890-1940), editors need the publication to be inexpensive, interesting and easy to read (Watson, 2005). It is important to acknowledge that the current state of the economy has played an important role in the magazine world and, as a result, magazine covers have to hit their target audience faster and harder than before. This cover was simple but delivered a concise message. If the magazine cover does not instantly connect with the consumer, it is unlikely the consumer will buy that particular magazine. According to the Audit Bureau of Circulations, U.S. magazine sales dropped more than six percent in the beginning of 2008. Advertising revenue for both newspapers and magazines was already at a decline. Now, add the current economic problems to this and it deepens the wound. Online publications are held accountable for both of these print media problems (Lee, 2008). Esquire magazine editor-in-chief David Granger thought a bold move was appropriate for the current situation. For Esquire’s seventy-fifth anniversary issue, Granger chose a cutting edge cover that featured an electronic link and a collage of illuminated images. The anniversary issue’s cover also had a ten-inch display that flashed the theme “The 21st Century Begins Now.” A two-page spread advertising the new Ford Flex Crossover featured on the inside cover. It had a second ten inch display with flashing colors to illustrate how the car would appear as it was 5 being driven at night. Esquire even had to design a battery (a "six-figure investment") that was small enough to fit into a magazine and keep things running until the magazine sold. The batteries lasted for 90 days (Lee, 2008). Anniversary issues, or special issues, can be a great help for magazines in terms of boosting sales. Advertisers and readers alike are receptive of the special issues. Readers enjoy them because they mark a particular moment in time. Some save the anniversary issues and look back at them from time to time—and some readers will look back at them years after the issue was released. Advertisers are aware of this and acknowledge that these issues have a longer shelf life than the standard weekly or monthly publications (Johnson, 2002). The Esquire anniversary issue is a great example of a successful anniversary issue. Chris Butler, the vice president and consumer marketing director for Hearst Magazines, reported that the updated issues of four iconic Esquire covers received lots of free media exposure. High- profile events featuring George Clooney, LeBron James and Marc Jacobs doing live demonstrations of their visions of the future contributed to the issue’s success. The anniversary issue was displayed at Borders on the best-seller book table, as well as in end-caps and window displays and it was featured in “The Short List” e-newsletter. Results included a 500 percent sales increase for the digital-cover copies, with a 50 percent price increase. Anniversary issue copies with traditional covers were priced at $4.99, while those with the digital cover were priced at $5.99. Overall, unit sales jumped 250 percent in retailers carrying the digital issues, and sell-through was 75 percent. Units for traditional-cover copies were flat, but with a $1 price increase. Overall newsstand revenue for the issue doubled (www.news.idpa.org). 6 The end result was that the October issue had the most advertising pages of any issue in Granger’s eleven years as editor-in-chief of Esquire (Lee, 2008). This cover was a monumental success. The average reader spends only three to five seconds scanning