The^ San Francisco Sunday Call THE FASHIONS OF SAN FRANCISCO

From Ransolmff*. Front view of Doucet even- ing cc.it

" From I.Magnin &Co.". * From- Ransphoff's. \u25a0 Brown \u25a0 velvet turban, hat, ' From Ransohoff's. Paqum 'evening \u25a0 cloak of- oordered Iwith^skunk fur'and Doucet evening coat, drapfd champagne moire velour, lined !trimmed with|shaded |brown model ,in cafe au lait chiffon with pale blue peau de cygne; plumes!"/ lined with peau de shawl ;collar of and Champagne \ chfffoft<;•broact- broadcloths*" marten t . cvypier >n same shade ;orna- sleeves bordered with the same clbtn \u25a0-. street ']coat, lin^d\with ments of silk braid ;shawl col- fur;,pale |blue chiffon scarf matching peau de ;cygne ; • fur. lar inlskunk jfur. fastened to the lining. shawl collar of; skunk with-two- -fur buttons.- • ; H^.- •-\u25a0.. .\u25a0: . .

From the City of Paris.

Champagne moire hat \u25a0 with facing of black \u25a0velvet, cham- MildredNapier Anderson pagne willow plumes. / : are the varieties of coats . Street coat of brown" chif- • wraps \u25a0 fon broadcloth ;shawl collar and and outer garments trimmed with brown • velvet which the fashion authorities and soutache braid. Two but- nANThave . considerately Included ton closing. Stitched gores set among the models for the year. There in at the front and sides: _;\u25a0 have been seasons when the comfort- able long coat has been almost, if not entirely, absent from the styles, but it of two or more of them in such a way is not so this winter, and the conve- that they cannot be .exactly classified. nient, easily adjusted garment is to be On the whole the wraps, like the gowns, Been in many attractive forms. have taken on a draped and festooned The paletot is one of these. It is appearance, and many are made in- the, made just at present with a half fitted dolman shape, with a loose drapery back, and as a rule comes down to the covering the arms and hanging "veil hem of the gown.. Sometimes it.is cut down toward the bottom of the gar- severely plain, and again it is an in- ment. The pleated models are also genious combination of panels' and seen, and some which are quite simple From the GityofParis, gores, shaped fan- framed and stitched and sacklike in character. The wraps Tricorne hat of gray beaver; cifully,yet keeping a certain simplicity range in size all the way from the cloak ,«itb~peacock igreen >wing and in the main lines and general contour of' hip length to the long.-'; garment feind of passementerie. of the garment. reaching the hem of the skirt fc Street coat 6iheavy diagonal of the wraps serge iniraisin,^with the new -One virtues of these is 'One of the prime requisites ofan even-" goires and paacl<4 they can be worn over gown framed side that a or ing coat is that it shall not bo in the ;* with raisia -satm, any color, :back fined ckirt of material or so that leastheavy, since itis often' to be worn ;\u25a0 bishop ;sleeves. ShiWl-Hcollar their usefulness is almost unlimited. over the. filmiest and most crushable of• Front- 'closing ;with two ,large For street coats of the. plainer, and gowns.. ma- jet and gold:buttons; self- For this reason all. of!the -used for trim- more serviceable types wide wale diag- 'are made From L cove»cd buttons terials of which the cloaks onals, homespuns, serges, cheviots and are remarkable for their lightness. The wide, cuif," Scotch mixtures —in fact all the silks and 'chiffon broadcloths used for by:o. dand,.Tialf ayara ofjieavily and. two'Or^ three or a few more embroidery ; --The for;the front closing. _^-- rougher and more hairy are purpose are uncommonly raised J in white -silk. fabrics . ' the soft and same -embroidery "simulated-; a }collar \ The ,fshawl ."or, "tuxedo collar has .' favored, while broadcloth occupies a texture, and the velvets this of; square ; back, proved *to -.- the popular • delicate in yoice.i which was iin the be most finish " i " 1 middle ground, being used for purposes year-are a new. weave which, is almost and vlt was seen again \u0084'on^ the full fortcoats of all descriptions, and when draped, « The Jef'nail- :it islemployed the front ;tsste nlng is of scmldress, as well as for the utility as light and as supple as satin. sleeves. tiniest of generally flow," \ \u25a0 ?very sparingly either, at the waist line coat and evening wear. The heads scattered :\ ; for models \u25a0 embroidery,^ tor ; frogs \u25a0 through the white and all Just above it. and \often \u25a0of velvet, Trimmings on for dress occasions are made of* the Coats the? edges -^of the coat ;were' finished "braid' are -used the fastenings in- tnoire antique, cachemire de A great deal-of latitude is allowed in withfa.'{ piping of '\u25a0 black /panne .velvet, •stead of - soie^molre Jet; models ;in these long coats ; 1 theornamentatlon, although whiles a: clasp held the .garment 'The! are velours and many other rich and beau- where .the' ' rather, •:straight semintting. very rich, ,is. together.'at .the 'front.','::<:...;. . ;\ and al- fabric is ( there sometimes though tiful fabrics. \u25a0- iAnother] outer igarment lately seen on some are shaped In to. fit as little, or no trimming in the draped stagelwas draped much :as Vthree-quarters. ° the of^the ' Dalmatian \ fur,' Coats for Evening Wear models. Many ofthe cloak's /have wide type,*- made"; of aeroplane panne velvet "In the long, coats are among the I most fashionable and In the wraps of this latter -class the collars; and borders of fur, and 'others with?ban'dsTof >steel studded silver vem- " comfortable of . broidery.i extending jpart Iway.down -the the; season's garments. '. The .furs used fancy of the designers has been allowed have them .of maraßout or down- ;Some *1 for theses are 'pony skin, caracul fronts arid out lover/the rshoulders" /and and as play as evening are trimmed :with hand embroidery, 1 ,• _'sealskin,' vwhile :mink. sable, almost free in the terminating ;in"silver." tassels.' * 'chinchilla \u25a0 and are also gowns, which are unusually some with lace. -Some have •i A very, beautiful and odd model seen ermine employed, though elaborate ornamented ' : ]less frequently", ;purpose. picturesque year. applied passementerie or recently iin>"one ;of the ':shops Iwas de- much for.the and this bands of braid- ?f? dull 'The- ;same; plainness and 'jslmpliclty veloped »' Infsilk Vrcashmefe^ In'the" ; The inhabitants of San. Francisco are ing. Frogs or buttons are. occasionally \u25a0oftshade called fcendresdeirose^ .-This which'-.characterizes t the "cloth coaU is like those of Paris, a gay and pleasure used. to fasten the garments, /and was -draped*^at' the sides a 'curious noticeable in 'thoselof this, materiaL* : 'Occasionally iia of a contrasting people, the, drapery, are caught up with; tashion,' :the ifulluess being gathered in /collar loving and so it is that the sub- folds^of * caiightT- . tfur'* is:,used, and cuffs o#,a • ;-. a tsort' 5festoon and .' into a border ject garments for all kinds jet or Jeweled cabochons. sof 1 ; 'edge, of of even- straightiiband-'of j'dull'gold% galloon, iaround the but.more *often each \u25a0'" every ing and dress occasions is of more As r not one Is conversant :with edged ;coati at is used alone and uncombined with any than which! " the other. them; the ;names ;of trimmings and 'materials N front ;iThe ifull? straight '"\u25a0•\u25a0' common interest to not. only;to ' shirred' or. tucked isoV,as? form; tne iofAways.- The ',advent ;ofithe.'.very.' sof t v ofithe:season; fare*, employed,' the \ iand back: BSBPttHHB , ; to^ * " colors^ > also^ ' sleeves iideep"> facings^ of velvet Ermine -coats are particularly beau- class, may be well say delightfully'fluffy materials'.' a^measure':; responsible] among t had \* a limited leisure but to those of it-. Ito that cabochons softest and most'- " -of ; is in*? ' therri"the',blues, and'aeroplane.'a 3r draped \\\tulIfor evening wear, ;but;instead ' \u25a0 matching the coat Izvcolor and a of means as "are.large button' shaped . affairs, round-, linings.;.4In),other cases',^* plain£ linings fori presence tri»,the| fashioris; ?for< grayishlblue ;green ;|shades |bf/dullgold \u25a0 ]sprinkling moderate well/ their/ l | v faclngK-of ; applied *on black tails over the fur style ,3 of; i garment->better; iltp 5 i, rose, j the ivelvet ; top \u25a0 back, suit 'the the lsi:because *"of. ashes of roseTandrcedar; !passlflore;-: 'promiscuously, according are types ing on. and flat at the of ithelr^softness^andT • * « ; V •ii-The gold to the cv*- There three of dressy Jet these :are igenerally; of*,veryjsoft ? silk , flexibility^that; thVy-:can\be so;geherally^ ;\u25a0; afshade/of mauve ;*amethyst, j each side w"of the fronts % - for and some galloon appeared again,' around f*tomrin.;former; years, ;only* fSw ; 'or*jewels, sometimes consisting' of a ?I \u25a0 s ;,the flat the a: are cloaks that are especially distinct this r satins," and -then y again brocades are adopted; *they, are :quite ''(different* fromifi«of igrays, \wellVas % the ;•darker ,the = jDow;used.. and they^are'very carefully single. stone, firm, pastel fas -;;-'". \ pointed •:at tback and One is the burnous, a or. occaslonally.'of '\u25a0,a.)num- sometimes* sJuse'd-'r;..^;-'.;^..;^'; -/'''J--V4 '.- '-? '-'\u25a0\u25a0•\u25a0 .the*; *stiff aridirlbbonsf sashes: f{ £shadesJV- \u0084' ,/.?,-:y -;r:yr neck/? \u25a0placed season. hooded of years*sllk^ J • "\u25a0"\u25a0•7. pearing- Sunder-; the .velvet around -.the border' or.on certain .'\u25a0 Scarfs ; ofpchiffon\u25a0cor^real; J3lace"-jare o aMfew.s Andtscarf s^jarej ,JAIthough it;seems 'z an ; *con- ' ' ;-' parts ,of\the, garments garment which has taken' its name from ber of. smaller- bits Vet" close in often"; t, "aso^7 5 likeI odd \u25a0 : '°; '\u25a0'\u25a0\u25a0V for.trimming. the ;convex form.- -Passementerie Is a fastened 'around the {neck Ton %the [also £use"d Hbecause gthey.*belong!? tojthel fceit^lt^is^notfat^alir unusual^ for the front.'. the Moorish wrap of the men In the shape of band, inside arid"Itall5almost ;\tojlthe perioda)t which? are'Kfurnlshirig^motifs '\u25a0»!,wraps |tor ehIng'„ to';, » trimming;irijthe a' '.made . s lev wear| be jmade of Garments :of ßroadcloth gimp,; of,'the^garmentSin^frorit,^'.where?(they ifor.ltheV'styles' !?of?the:;season- I igauze;or. 7 .. CoatsJfprthe Street Barbary states and Arabia. Another. often" brocaded crepe or,evenichiffori^ }--/-^j Is of braid;or and set;with Jet ; hang :^-itsisfnot' g draped model, or colored stones; it;is eometlmes. made can bo :loosely^ tied/brfallowed* toi Jcorrect^tbJ'sayJ'lthatV'.the^perlodsVare: ;;,These(fllmyj materials are 'mounted* over ? ; (we'have said, ;the street icoats jin- \u25a0;.- There ;is -sometimes more or less the Dalmatian .which re- - * r straight-: > ; of; gold or' lthreads "woven" to- under- Ithetcloak.**:.Thisf Iss not ideas ywrhlchfthe s,silk 'ior|sating and » sufficient 3 warmth is"*\u25a0 .tended\for|service areigerierally^made •broadcloth. coats garment worn by subjects > § 5 .the • ' which sembles a. gether. _ , !as^much;of;a\wasteJandrcbncealmentT6'f f,have j^takenj^f the> old secured Iforj*theygarments&byl a5a thinly of, :-. the'j/rougher ;;.materials, .{although i :used \u25a0 f dress ; ."•; are occa- Dalmatia, J" good material*; .bneSimight >;lrnaglne, fashion"s^have'been'so'worked'overjaridirbnri^ < or> and semldress empire and as ( .j.-. sions, of the Austrian In •ywadaedUnterlirilng.^^.-v-^ ::';;:-\u25a0 Bome broadcloths.are;alsb}seen.~" :One iof and this purpose twisted '• "wraps fare*always ? slightly.and for silk \u25a0 that' J Carrick or;military for'the transformed' the fdistinctive features*; of ithese jcoats ,;cord \or,> rattall braid t are : the third is the TheLinjngs loosely^ ten slipy open , , newer and form, .' fastened 3aridt'fof i? 'sometimes it\is h"a'rd|tb";recogriizej,theh\ ywraps jseen on)the !stage are sufficiently^ is' thelr-^severityj^andr'plairines^^^no Cmore^oftenVseen; than soutache,.' cape, the simplest cloak of the One'of the most*charmirig;features of whllejthey areibelrig^orn, -revealing; the origin;^ \ cases k*have ; ; - ' • al-. \u25a0' - inS yeryfi /.the Jrefined? toi-.bcy suitable forj trlnimlh"g,ls!used;wlth',the,''exceptibri;pf Us lalso t; few^' ; f 1 used in the finer developed evening! ;\u25a0 -'~'£. \u25a0 - season, one which, when the cloaks this winter is the hidden charms ofJtheTuriderrslde.? ..?- t'styles,beenitakenllni*any.thing llke'their generally,; , ; but 1 J ' iuseUn^priyate^life^tOneVwhichlwasire-r in the/ form of•a js shawl sizes. ,v.' way.iri which{th"ey are*lined.V complete,;" original :• > fur.f "applied " beautiful material and appropriately * 4 Ofteri'.the - 'form." . / ycently^wbrhjby; an- actress -'noted jfor '-heri collar.^sometimesfalso ->ob^th~e la -a. trimming jseen -on some In af*wrap\ „', *_'Q\. t ; outside- of willibe^' almost se-. The.Popular^ Scarff,u / \u0084 The |yellbwslseem^tbibe ja'dittle more Vgowns^exempllfled-: popularity fqf: worthy, ~ popularity .plaint' s the: cuffs tahdfiasia.bordertdownithVi front f,°'l.the jlatest /coats from Paris which trimmed. Is of the " verely though *of.very,"richimai" /^f.The^rusevof^scaffs^for^thls^purpbse .pppularlthahu'anya'of^the^otherl'colora VblackAandJSwhite;:^The;:cloak:/wW)l6f* orjalljatquhdtthercoatJV [the jconslstsi of a", ' ; terlal," garment ,1s ; general Sometimes wide band of^fine-brai^ which;has been accorded to it.* There but^whensthe; is v another J [V.theirjt \u25a0. :fdr4 thel evening fclqakV;attpresent;f dull,fiw.hiteibroadclQth^nTaTsackfmodel]hang-f coat IandScuffs *are".inlaid sin^.p^heayy; embroidery,- all ;:the-: that^is ;to utility) iristarice^of * Jcollar3 encircling, the many modifications elaboration^ denied thisiseasqn;! there!nasinever^been iold^gbld^ls}|a7favorlte,Vespeciallyi|inj \tingfistraight^ from but mb4rel*A'elours,",'of ilvelvetlotXottoman r,garmentlat ihipa.'f are. variations and^ the exteriorJ is'revealed.' -:.'Oyer^ anTlnter- a\ '\u25a0wheriythVseT*gracefulJ"? adaptable ; C^thel shoulders s • *or«.below the The • time j velvetiand jTmolre? velours hmustard »is nfallinglintojfoldsJbelowtth'e^waist.SvAt^ *ilk,?an*dj'ar|few^falrly/sizabieibfjlarge same .braiding j/or *, embroidery ''\u25a0\u25a0 of•these' three. types, 'and, some of, the lining'of>rich,*/soft; •delicately.; accessories \6t Have > * Is "used v colored .'\u25a0 dfess'i alsolused.HandrrriaizeV^fasiwellfaslapricotj |the|3hipSiine^|andrdipping,flsohiewhat' are h used Ztor::trimmlngV' two on*the sleeves *and ; the ; - -satin, ; r buttons^ * 1 i on upper* part combine the characteristics chiffon *or moussellne is "often more) generally/ "fgreater'k variety; [ahdf chami.agne.V vMahy.' ofJtheabthef, • ;r back, ""; carments ' ' or "infa li^JSHteiiron^theXclbaklwasrenclrcled?. perhaps at the ; ::one on v^each ;-, ofjthe garment,. "' \u25a0 . ..' :' •• i<->"! \u25a0 .