Mallerstang Forest

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T H E

HISTORY AND TRADITIONS

MALLERSTANG FOREST

A N D

PENDRAGON CASTLE .

BY T HE

R E V I . W . N C H O L L S

(Author of T he Histor y and Traditions of Ra venstonedale

E : O H Y O O DE A N S G A T E A N D . MANCHEST R J HN E W D, RIDGEFIELD KI KB Y T PH ! M ar s . E E W zmox : Joh n woo m n hal] C o . L o Hey d Si pki , , R S N J ' Whi s xmm : . Hod son . D L B r aithw BY : . teh ead. P K E aite . A PPL E J J N A

i so o i t and E . G ill. S E DBE BG H : a so ons . S m uz Atk n n P ll t , J ck n

ldma n HA was : . s o . Wi n 61 S o . J Hi c ck

[ ALL mom s m a m a ]

THIS WOR K IS

B tsptrtfullg E tdicatcd

BY PE BM IS S TO N

H LORD OTHFIELD, OF HOTHFIELD ,

D IE E O F ES D LOR L UT NANT W TMORLAN ,

A N D

O F T HE O F S G MANOR MALLER TAN ,

BY T HE AUTHOR .

P R E F A C E .

I s t a a m of s s u a H E BE WIT H end for h nother to Eng li h Hi tory . Enco r g ed by the rec eption given to the His to ry and Traditions of Ra vensto ne " of s s I a n u to a dale by the people thi di trict , h ve ve t red c ll their

’ a e n to an ad i i a diﬁer ent no ss i s in in tt ntio jo n ng d le, thoug h le ntere t g “ is A m a f f a s of its o . e has sa h s the e ture h t ry odern writ r id, It o ten

n ma d a in a if a is a to s m bee re rke th t Engl nd , ttention c lled o e little,

n and s am a s a i its o s w unknow ob cure h let, little re e rch nto rec rd ill r a to as s m of es how a s eve l the toni h ent the inter ted enquirer , in the g e

a o as was m of a s o a a s an d long g dece ed, it the ho e g re t hi t ric ch r cter the ” s s m a a to centre of rich historic circumstances. The e word y be pplied

M h the a a s in allersta ng Fores t and Pendragon Castle. W en re der be r m a a is not m a m s r o ind th t the d le ore th n ﬁve ile in length , he will p bably be surpris ed tha t so much materi al could have been g athered

ma a a s s so s . s sa tog ether re pecting ll d le Thi , however, hould be id , that it contains two or three objects of special interest that a river

— is s in and s s its wa its m the Eden r e it, pur ue y throug h botto , receiving

a s on its as and s s tribut rie e t we t. The Epi copal Chapel is of undoubted]y a a and as of a no w a e rly d te , the C tle Pendr g on , ruin , would be enoug h of ts f to s a c o mm I has i el inve t the d le with un on interes t. t bee n my aim to ai a a as as am f m a and to s obt n ccur te well ple in or tion , pre ent it to a a a and a a f m I am the re der in reli ble ttr ctive or . under deep obli a e to m a s for ff of a s g ti n ny contributor di erent kinds informa tion . Perh p

one to m o we m I s . a s who s the who the o t, Mr G. Bl de , conver ed with m e with g rea t interest and animation o n the social life of the inhabi a ts in his a a s not l to a i o f t n e rly d y , did ive he r the del very the ﬁrst — — . was a a m s a a s m of s a sma lecture He good l o t typic l peci en the t te n .

fa m his own a had He r ed l nd . He been born a nd brought up in his o wn a and n of . was s a d le, knew every i ch it He con erv tive in his ideas.

did not a for a a ai s and He c re r ilw y tr n , never travelled in them ; he PREFACE .

i a on o l a i reg arded them as an nnov tion the go d o d times. T ke h m all in all was an i an d a man of m of an , he ntellig ent reli ble , who the people y

d si to dale might ha ve been proud . I e re recog nise the kind help o f

a m s who a for m e at s and C non Si p on, took the ch ir the ﬁr t lecture, w s d s a s as an a a o s is all ho e well e erved pr i e rch e log i t in the county.

a a ms a also s me s m a a m a a and a C pt in Gri h w ent o e v lu ble teri l , Edw rd

. m s of Heelis E s . and to . and , q , the Rev W Tho p on , Sedberg h, the Rev .

ar o of a mo and not m ss a of T . Wh t n, St in re, o itting Mi F wcett, The

for s and a ass s a I am a . ar e Thr ng , indebted note liter ry i t nce There

s a I m t am I m s not m s n other th t igh n e, but u t o it Mr. J . Dicken o ,

s s and a s of as I a f a a who e preci e cle r recollection the p t h ve ound inv lu ble .

s in oa o m a s an The lecture were delivered the B rd School R o , M ller t g ,

a kindly lent by the School Board on each occ sion . I V. N .

a s a M nche ter Ro d, Bury.

M ar c h 28 1883 , . C O N T E N T S .

0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 c o o . .

O O O O O O U I 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 . 0 0 O o o c u o l c o t o l o o o o o o o o o 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

- 0 0 0 0 c o c o o n - b o o o o o o o o o o o c o o o o 0 0

D O . O O O O C Q O O Q Q O O C C O O Q O O Q O O O 0 .

L ist of Subsc ribers

L EC T UR E I .

HERE are few dales in Westmorland more i solated and

a no o sequestered than that b f Mallerst ng. In part f it is the botto m of the valley more than half a mile

and s no t a of s in breadth, in ome parts th t, with a ridge hill

s one a s a to ri ing, on either side, and lmo t perpendicul rly a

fo r height of over two thousand feet . This accounts the

w ou a dale h phenomenon hich y h ve noticed in your , t at the m wind always blows up or down the valley. From the otion o f the clouds y ou see that it may blo w from the east or the

or of west, but to you it is north south . The formation the

s of s a grand wall the dale , geologi ts tell us , is mostly c rboni

s was ferous lime tone and shale , and that the valley scooped

of has a out by the action running water, which e ten down

the s two d s of deep into solid cru t, leaving the ri ge Wild

’ on one s a on Boar Fell the hand, and Hugh Se t the other.

l we a o s s Cou d , however, tr nsp rt our elve into the dim and far - s s s two s reaching pa t, we hould see tho e ridge ummits

- — connected by a table land instead o f what. we no w see a

s al I f out picture que and romantic v ley . And con ess , at the set I t , that was drawn into an enquiry in o the hi story and

of its a traditions of your dale , not on account soci l , com m er c ial or s t , political importance , but mo tly owing o the

its s U fascination which scenery has exerci ed pon my mind , together with its most remark able memorial - the ruin of 10 MALLERSTANG FOREST.

“ d a s — Whellan his s o f Pen r gon Ca tle which , in Hi tory ” “ s s is one of s We tmorland, say , the mo t interesting relics ” of in antiquity the county .

a of a is as ou s n The n me the d le , y know , Maller ta g

s and is s of s of r Fore t, it a town hip the pari h Ki kby Stephen . The etymology of the name I have been un able to ﬁnd a

of of s a trace ; and, instead gues ing what it might be , perh ps it would be better to leave it as one of the things of the ! past which we cannot know .

all old i In the writings t is called Mallerstang Forest.

N ow s s in uch documents we ﬁnd , notably in Black tone , that the word forest did not mean what we understand it to

to- a mean day, a considerable extent of l nd thickly covered

of — in with trees, but a piece waste ground given up to game

h l n i s s . W el a h s s of fact, a chase , in hi tory this county, ay , “ s a s f s Thi district was nciently a va t ore t , inhabited by every ” f of description o game . And that this was the character

a F or is the Mallerst ng Forest we have evidence . example it ” “ on s record in the Appleby Ses ions Indictment Book , That

s s 16 65 f at a petty session , held Michaelma , , be ore Sir Philip

s t a t Mu grave , Knight and Bar , Sir John Lowther, B r , Sir

w s u John Lo ther the younger, Bart . , and John Dal ton , Esq ire ,

’ of His a s s s of four M je ty ju tices the peace, Thomas

K newstubb , Ralph Shaw, Henry Shaw, Thomas Whitﬁeld ,

G u H s Adam Fothergill , Robert y , Richard e eltine , and Henry Dixon were convicted of killing a deer within the Forest of

M aller stan e n s g , belongi g to the honourable Ann , Counte s

n th e a o h a m et i the o o m o o of th e Since writi g b ve, I ve w th f ll wing ety l g y ’ “ h nam e in Whitaker s History an d Antiq uities of t e Deanery of Craven. He “ sa s : s d a w as s os so a l d a a a th e oo of th e y Thi wil tr ct , I upp e, c l e M ll rd St nk , p l a a r to som a a s o of th e has o si M ll rd, eferring e e rly exp n i n Eden which l ng nce " s m o v W a o of m o has a s o s m e th e its ds . T h e R e . . a bur t un J h rt n , St in re, l ent o o i a s a a la a m m o ass of th e f ll w ng note to th e like effect : M ller t ng (M l rd St g nu ) , r

- n wild duck compare Dun Mall ard ( Ullswater) a d G arstang . M A L L E R S T A G E K FOR ST.

w M ont om er e Do ager of Dorset, Pembroke , and g y , who , on

of £ 20 examination , confessed , and were each them ﬁned , according to the And tradition says that the last deer keep er in Mallerstang lived in a place called Ridding

s f of hou e , rom near which he could see a large portion the

sa w s u forest, and when he anyone di turbing the deer he sed

a t s a to shout them with uch stentori n lungs , that he could ”

is . be heard a long d tance, and went by the name of Gobe

is Still it evident that, at a period anterior to the seven teenth s was century, of which I have been speaking, thi dale

and s w well wooded , the tree that gre here were mostly birch

oak and alder,and hazel bushes, and some , but not much. As we might expect, the land is rich in fuel for ﬁre , from turf

s down to black hard peat, and thi , until about thirty years ago,

of s s previous to the introduction railway , supplied mo t of the inhabitants with fuel ; and so well did the folks keep

s s if them elve supplied with peat , that they had a wet season ,

of a great many them had enough for the following year . The ﬁrst name connected with the dale of which we

is pos sess any record Uther Pendragon . He is a half

- historical and half mythical person ; he is, so to speak , in

is not the dim twilight between legend and history. It my busine ss here to enter upon the value of oral tradition handed down through the ages from sire to son but of this we are sure , that the recollections of the people and the evidence o f the oldest extant documents show that

s w s the castle in your mid t was al ays called Pendragon Ca tle .

’ N ew in Geoffrey of Monmouth s British History I ﬁnd a record of Uther Pendragon . I am aware that he is not a

F or th e above extract I have pleasure in acknowledg ing th e kindness of Canon ' M ac he ll who has th e i s W s m o an M h S S . in is osse ss o and om h , H ll e t rl d p i n , fr w ich , a t th f s s N . i l h o e s o B . e it. Vol iii. a 405 . req ue t li A H l , c pied . , p g e 12 MALLERSTANG FO REST .

high authority still he lived in the early par t of the twelfth

ou of century ; and I give y his account Uther Pendragon ,

w s of hich , after the pirit the age, is no doubt mixed up with

legend . He says

D uring these transactions at Winchester [the murder of

of Aurelius Ambrosius, the brother Uther, by poisoning] there

a of u a nd ss appeared a st r wonderful magnit de brightne , darting forth a ray at the end of which was a globe of ﬁre in

f of out of s s f two the orm a dragon, who e mouth is ued orth rays one of which seemed to stretch out itself beyond the

of s n extent Gaul , the other toward the Irish Sea, and e ded

in seven lesser rays. At the appearance of thi s star a general

e s fear and amaz ment eized the people ; and even Uther,

’ s was a the king brother, who then upon his m rch with his

a not army into C mbria, being a little terriﬁed at it was very

s curiou to know of the learned men what it portended . “ s M r was Among other , he ordered erlin [Me lin a sage who was supposed to possess a measure of prophetic insight] to be called, who also attended in this expedition to give his advice in the management of the war ; and who being n ow

f was presented be ore him, commanded to discover to him

f s out s o . the signiﬁcation the star At thi he burst into tear ,

‘ out : 0 s ! 0 and with a loud voice cried , irreparable los ,

ss o f ! s s s is distre ed people Britain Ala , the illu triou prince

of r departed ! The renowned king the B itons , Aurelius

A s s is ! f a mbro iu , dead whose death will prove at l to us all

ur s G od o . unles be helper Make haste , therefore , most noble

as Uther, make h te to engage the enemy the victory shall

ou of . be yours, and y shall be king all Britain For the

s s s f star and the ﬁery dragon under it igniﬁe your el , and the ray extending towards the Gallic coast portends that you A E F M LL RSTANG OREST. 13 s son to s hall have a most potent , who e power all those king doms shall be subject over which the ray reache s. But the

d s s other ray signiﬁes a aughter, who e son and g randsons

’ s shall succes ively enjoy the kingdom of Britain . The

d a chronicler, after having referre to the de th of Aurelius

A mhr osius s , which had actually taken place , proceed

of Uther, the brother the deceased king, having assembled the n clergy of the ki gdom , took the crown , and by universal d cons ent was advance to the kingdom . And remembering the explanation which Merlin had made of the star above

two a mentioned , he commanded dr gons to be made of gold in likeness of the dragon which he had seen at the ray of

s as w the tar. As soon they ere done with wonderful nicety

of one of workmanship , he made a present to the Cathedral of Winchester [there ar e many legends of various kinds o f

s King Arthur, his son , connected with thi cathedral still] ;

s for but re erved the other himself, to be carried along with t him to the wars . From this time , herefore , he was called t Uther Pendragon , which in the British ongue signiﬁes the dragon ’s head the occasion of this appellation being Merlin ’s predicting from the appearance of a dragon that he should be ” a king .

The preceding has a mythical cast, and any historian would f accept it with caution still the substratum o it may be true .

of 4 20 In the year our Lord , after the Romans had left the

s w i land , we kno that the Britons, no longer overawed by the

of presence the Roman legions , refused to acknowledge the authority of the provincial and municipal governors of Rome , and restored the power of the ancient chiefs under the

o who supremacy f an elective monarch , bore the title of

Pendragon , and administered the affairs of the central govern l l MALLERSTANG FOREST .

. en is s for dr a on ment The word p Briti h head, and g for

or leader chief. Dr. Milner Fothergill , in writing to me on

s : this subject, say Pendragon was the generali ssimo O f the

united Cymric Tribes. Uter was in all probability the

Pendragon O f the Cumbrian C ymr i who long held their own ” of t against the tide Saxons . And I am disposed o accept this view of the chief from whom the castle here takes its

F or n f r name . is there a ything abulous o even improbable in the fact tha t such a monarch would build a stronghold in f m this valley, which is the best outlet ro the north into the Craven district and the midlands of England ! And if he

it not ! did , would be likely to be remembered Moreover,

f of a s Whitaker, a ter speaking Pendragon C tle , proceeds “ s With re pect to the name , which , among authentic records , f r h 1314 i st ap p ear s in an inqui sition of the 8t Edward II . [

s s as s was I hall only ob erve that , thi place certainly included

of r C lu d s f s in the limits the St ath y Briton , a ortres might

is s really have been erected on the spot by Uther. It ea y ” to defer too little as well as too much to remote tradition .

n It is not probable that Uther Pendrago often lived here , or that the original castle was intended to be other than a keep in a most important military position . “ s in s of Nichol on and Burn, their Hi tory Westmorland, give quite another and a different acco unt of Uther Pen t dragon , and here is what hey say “ s O f The Ca tle Mallerstang, called Pendragon Castle , is said to have been built abo ut the time of Vortigern by Uter ” Pendragon .

So far this agrees with G eoffrey of Monmouth . The “ f t writer proceeds , Who this Uter was may be di ﬁcul to

of of U htr ed o f ascertain. There was a family the name g ancient time ; and during the time Of the Saxons in England O MALLERSTANG F R E ST . 15 before the Norman conque st there was a famous warrior O f

Uc htr ed Waltheof of N or thumber the name of , son of , Earl land , who, with a much inferior army, gave the Scots under

s n their king Malcolm a mo t sig al overthrow, for which victory

Uc htre d King Ethelred gave to his daughter, the Princess

E l iva o f g , in marriage , and with her the counties Northum

s s berland and York for a portion . Pendragon eem not to be

of s properly the name a man , but an epithet only , de cribing

his . fi s warlike quality Pen , it is well known , signi e a moun

a tain or something that is gre t, and dragon hath been applied ” in all ages to military persons .

’ The radical defect Of Dr. Burns account of Uter Pendragon is Uc htr ed , that the link is wanting that should connect , the

Saxon warrior, with the castle here . He received with his

f for . wi e , we are told, Northumberland and York a p ortion

of s Pendragon Castle is in neither those countie , and the

i s f Uc htr d a of t e . n me ounder was Uther and not Moreover , there is a tradition current in the di strict that the Saxons

besieged the castle, and , considering it impregnable , resorted

s — w is to treachery, and poi oned the well hich still pointed — out to visitors and that Uther and his garrison were

of poisoned , owing to drinking its water. This is as much as

1 of ar e have been able to glean Uther Pendragon . All

or agreed , however, that he lived in ancient British early Saxon times and as an evidence of how thoroughly his

s of exi tence has entered into the traditions the people , I have

of s s it, on the authority Canon Simp on , that to thi day the

of s on ghost Old Uther is aid to appear Shap Fell . He was

f l F ew the irst chief of this da e . were the inhabitants here indeed we have evidence that the only inhabitants were those

who s lived in the ca tle . Solemn must have been the scene

s s of the ca tle , rude and mas ive, set in a forest trees, the

- of w bear hiding place the ild and the wolf. 6 1 MALLERSTANG FO REST .

T he s of so O f ﬁr t lord the manor, properly called, whom

a an is a s we h ve y record , Hugh de Moreville, much les

fi s s unde ned per on than Uther Pendragon . The highe t point

’ of s is a a the ea tern ridge c lled Hugh s Se t, where Anne ,

s of s Counte s Pembroke , erected a tone pillar, and upon it

A . P 16 64 is a the inscription is cut, . . There a tr dition current amongst the people that upon this mountain he

a s i n s conce led him elf dur ng a Scotch i va ion . Another that I have met with is that after he had been hunting he sat down

r of f . s is the e and partook re reshment Thi incontrovertible , that he was one O f the four knights who murdered the

A s a a a rchbi hop Thomas Becket, in Canterbury C thedr l , in

1 0 s a the year 1 7 . The other knight eng ged in the bloody deed were Reginald Fitzurse , Richard Brito, and William de

w m at not Tracy, but ith the present we are concerned, except

s s a of that thi should be aid in extenu tion all , that they

r s received their ﬁ t hint from the king, Henry II . , when he was his at holding court at Bur, near Bayeux, which they w f s . N o not were pre ent a hint rom the king, which could

s s s a be ea ily mi under tood, amounted to a comm nd to loyal

s knights . They cros ed the Channel , proceeded to Canterbury,

w a not s secured an intervie with Becket, which they did wi h

of a to be a paciﬁc character, and after mutu l recrimination

on n not s in the palace , which I eed enter, the archbi hop ﬂed

was f his for refuge into the cathedral , whither he ollowed by

of assailants, and there, in the deepening twilight December

29 th 117 0 . , , he was murdered I am indebted to Dean

’ “ ” Stanley s Historical Memori als of C anterbury for the

s is to his following facts and every allu ion to De Moreville ,

to credit, that whatever blame may be awarded the

a of s s perpetr tors this crime , the lig hte t share mu t rest upon

i him . Dean Stanley, after referr ng to the other knights ,

18 MALLERSTANG FO REST. with holding back at the entrance Of the transept the crowd s ” who were pouring in through the nave .

s a After the murder the four knights ha tened to S ltwood , where they stayed for the night ; and tradition states that they proceeded together to the residence of Hugh de Moreville

for at Knaresborough , where they remained twelve months . Dur ing this year he was discontinued from his Ofﬁce o f Justice l tinerant in the counties of Northumberland and Cumber

was to o land . This done appease p pular indignation, rather than as a punishment inﬂicted by the king ; for within the ﬁrst two years of the murder the murderers were living at

on a Court in Normandy famili r terms with the king, and

of constantly joined him in the pleasures the chase , or else

in s of hawking and hunting in England . And the ﬁr t year

King John , Hugh de Moreville is recorded as paying twenty

ﬁv e for h marks, and three palfreys olding his Court as Justice ltinerant in the counties of Northumberland and

u so Helwise C mberland , long as , his wife , shall continue in ul a sec ar habit. He procured about the same period a

for a and charter a f ir and market at Kirkoswald , died shortly

w is f s t o . a terward , leaving daughters There a legend that he and the other knights went on a pilgrimage of expiation t to the Holy Land, and died there ; but it is a my h that

s out of s s aro e the uper titions that, like a nimbus , gathered

of a int a around the name and memory S Thomas Becket . Hugh de Moreville visited the north after having been a

of for all t of spectator the tragedy, in the represen ations the

w or in martyrdom, in painted indows ancient frescoes, Hugh

s de Moreville is stationed aloof from the ma sacre . On his way from Knaresborough he must have passed through this

for dale, and, no doubt, rested awhile in Pendragon Castle . In strange contrast were the grand and sombre surroundings O 9 MALLERSTANG F REST . I o f thi s Westmorland dale to the scenes of excitement which

s w ss s he had previou ly itne ed . Would that ome Boswell had

s and us w been with him in the tronghold, given to a fe of

a his spoken thoughts . However, your mount in bearing the

’ ss name of Hugh s Seat will ever a ociate you with one ,

of despite the crime , noble spirit and bearing.

the s t O f We learn that is er Hugh de Moreville, named

Wm . Veter i ont Maud, married de p , with whom he received

of to the manor and estate the county. But Henry II . , a ppe ase the indignation of his subjects occasioned by the

of s murder the Archbishop, not only su pended him tem p or ar ily from the Ofﬁce of Justice ltinerant of the counties

Of Northumberland and Cumberland , but conﬁscated the

s us property, and granted the ca tle of Appleby to the c tody

G O S atr ic of p , son of Orme, but the barony was retained by the crown till King John restored it to the family by grant 22 Veter i ont. 1 8 ing it to Robert de p He died in , and was

Veter i ont succeeded by John de p , who died about the year

1242 Veter i ont , leaving his infant son, Robert de p , a ward to

r the king, and in the gua dianship of the Prior of Carlisle . N ow we learn that during the minority of Robert de Veter ipont the Prior O f Carlisle permitted great was te to be

s r committed , and particularly on an inqui ition the eof being

rs wa s taken , it was found that the Vale of Malle tang much

v a ear ies Vac c ar ies m decayed by the multitude Of c . ean large enclosed c ow pastures . During the period Of the minority of Robert de Veter ip ont i t is evident that different

v ac ear ies persons had made in the forest, and had probably e rected houses in them of a very simple and primitive kind . It would appear that game also had been to some extent d R estroyed by one oger, the forester, and other archers from

undsdale one of a L . From point view the bre king in upon 2 0 MALLERSTANG FO REST .

t was of the fores a deterioration it but from another, and a

one of of higher, it was the steps advancement in this district

towards civilisation .

of a The name of the lord the manor ch nges again . One of the daughters of Robert de Veter ip ont married Roger

ff ff on de Cli ord, of Cli ord Castle the Wye in Herefordshire,

of who becomes lord the manor, and we are told that ff h after the death Of Roger de Cli ord in 1l t Of Edward I . [ 1283] it was found by inqui sition that the forest of Maller

all stang in herbage and agistment, and other issues, was

t £4 4 8 6d wor h yearly 7 . .

d in From the authority Of Mr. Geo. Blades, an age man

now sum to the dale ( deceased) , I learn that the same is paid f — the lord o the manor to day, and that it has never varied

T wo of much . pieces land have been sold by the lord of the

’ manor, and these are not subj ect to the lord s rent ; they

for are Shor G ill and Moor Riggs . To make up this deﬁciency

’ of lord s rent, encroachments have been made upon the

’ common, and these have been charged lord s rent. The

we the value of money know has diminished greatly, still loss has been borne by the lord of the manor . And now passing over many of the successive lords of the manor who did not specially identify themselves with this — dale and it is mainly in this connection it is our business

— I of to regard them come to Anne , Countess Pembroke .

f was in G eorge Clif ord , the Earl Of Cumberland, born

8 15 58 s s Brougham Castle, August th , . He ignalised him elf

was of in the service of Queen Elizabeth , and a person great activity of body, sprightliness of wit, and civility of

o ne r demeanour. He was of the commissione s who tried and condemned the unfortunate Mary Queen of Scots, and

ear ls . one Of the four present at her execution He died, F assr MALLERSTANG o . 21

s leaving an only daug hter, Anne, born in Skipton Ca tle,

a 30th 15 9 1. s J nuary , She married ﬁr t, Richard Sackville,

f a l of she Lord Buckhurst, a terwards E r Dorset, by whom had issue M argaret and Isabella ; the latter of whom was m arried to James Compton , Earl of Northampton , by whom

h ad w a she six children , who all died ithout issue, so th t

of ff Margaret bec ame the sole heiress the Cli ord family. Her

us of second h band was Philip Herbert, Earl Pembroke and

u v r 1649 16 75 Montgomery, whom she s r ived f om to , when

of she died, having spent her long widowhood in the north England in repa iring her castles and in works of public and

and w e private charity. Weekly distribution daily alms er

of given at her gate . The consumption her household she regularly purchase d with ready money in the town s and

e r f villages around her, s ldom procu ing anything rom London ,

her of being desirous the county might beneﬁt by . Many her diaries in which she regularly entered the occurrences of the m of the day down to inutest details, and the names

r a on all st angers that c me to the house , whether business or

w of o r s . as the wi e, are very amusing Evidently she a lady

n r a O f asc stro g cha cter, and her mind was rather the m uline

In t than the feminine type . trea ing of the castle and the

l e to s chapel I sha l have to r fer thi lady again . After the death of the Countess of Pembroke her elder d e m of ff l aught r, Margaret, beca e sole heir the Cli ord fami y.

was 1629 o te She espoused in by John L rd Tufton , af rwards

Earl of Thanet, a title that had been conferred up on his f I 1 28 6 . ather by Charles . , in The estates and title next d who evolved upon his brother Rupard , died unmarried in

1683 he was d s , when succee ed by Thoma , the fourth brother, who established his claim to the title and barony of L ord

if a R a Cl ford, ﬁrst granted to his matern l ancestor, ich rd de 22 E MALLERSTANG FO R ST.

ff i A D 130 n . . 0. 1 29 Cli ord, He died in 7 , when he was b ' succeeded y his nephew, Sackville Tufton, who was suc c eeded son of in al by his the same name, who died It y,

’ ' 1786 his T ufton the March , , when son, Sackville , ninth earl ,

s 1825 succeeded ; and he, dying without is ue in , was suc c eeded by his brother, Charles Tufton , the tenth earl , who

1832 s died unmarried in April, , when the title and estate d escended to his brother, Henry Tufton, the eleventh earl , who n r 12th 1849 died u ma ried, June, . After his death the

s s title became extinct , and all his estate pas ed to Sir Richard

n 1849 185 1 Tufto , naturalised , created a baronet, , and died

187 1. son 2 th . o June , He was succeeded by his , Sir Henry J Tufton who was appointed Lord Lieutenant o f Westmorland

1881 in as in , and the same year elevated to the peerage h ld f H thﬁ ld Hot ﬁe o o e t . Baron , by the present Governmen We wish the present lord of the manor long life and great enjoyment of the honour which has been deservedly put

188 s . I 0 upon him n , during the conte ted election , we learnt that on this side of the county he was regarded with enthu

m 4 h 1844 new si . t as He was born on the of June, , and is

882 h - ( 1 ) consequently in his t irty ninth year. L C T UR E E II .

T h e Britis h b ar ds that t uned their lyres ' T o and e — a o s a se S £r a lter c ott. Arthur P ndr g n pr i . W S

SHALL now call your attention to Pendr agon Castle Every student of history knows that the castle occupied a very considerable place in the life of the people in the w s. of o n early and middle age Some them , like your , were n not baronial residences, so much as stro gholds ; it was almost impossible for them to be taken : a few men barred l and bolted within cou d defy whole armies without .

t an or on They were usually buil on eminence , the bank of a river which could be made to serve wholly or partially the purpose of a m eat : as in the case of your own castle

on of which is built the eastern bank the Eden . If it be true to its name it was built originally by Uther Pendragon

for a s and has been ge a grim grand keep . Would that we could tell from preci se historical data how long . Canon

in suc h in Simpson, who is an authority matters, says, notes ' w a hich he contributed to a local m gazine, There was doubtless a castle or stronghold here long befor e the Conquest which its then owner, Uther, endeavoured to strengthen by f ” drawing around it the waters o the Eden . The form of the original castle was v er v different from that Of the present ruin of the last restoration which took

on 1660 place, as we shall see further , in the year upon 24 . MALLERSTANG FOREST.

- much Older foundations . Probably the pre Norman castle was f o . a round tower, though this can course be but conjecture ” a s of Whit ker, in his Hi tory Craven , gives it as his Opinion “ t of hat the castles Brugh, Appleby, Pendragon , and

R anul h M esc hines Brougham were built by p de , the knight to whom William the Conqueror gave this part of the

f O f country . Brough to forti y the pass Stainmore Pen

' of its dragon that Mallerstang Appleby, for central as well as strong and beautiful situation in the barony ; and Brougham ” ” to r n r n n g ua d its o ther bou dary. Pendragon Castle, he “ further observes, equally romantic in name and situation , t of a e of ff hough manifestly the same g , is a di erent form

n from all the rest. It has been o e of these low Square

for Norman castles, which having had no bailey [ the beneﬁt of the unlearned in such terms I Observe that a bailey is the space immediately within a surrounding wall

e and the castle] enclos d a small area, and had many dimin ” n is utive apartments opening inward . Cano Simpson of Opinion that these apartments or recesses were probably used

dr as sleeping rooms, a curtain or screen being awn before

a the them, and thus sep rating them from more public apart ment . The day will come, perhaps, when the stones and rubbish which at present ﬁll up the enclosure will be m removed , and the clearance will, in y Opinion , reveal some ! interesting facts with respect to the building. We learn from inquisitions that were taken that Robert de Veter ip ont became ward of the Prior of Carlisle in the

h f nr I far 26t year o He y II . and that he so

! o Be so our - o a s o a os m a o d m e a few R bert nni n , well kn wn R ven t ned le p t n . t l e s a o t a h e was a b o s h e and o so we k g , h t when y , whil t R bert Hutchin n were clim bing am ong st th e ruins of the castle one moonlight nig ht in search of young o and o a d two u o o s h e does not wls, they bt ine , they picked p three c pper c in ;

a nor a o a mod n . remember wh t they were , their d te ; pr b bly they were er

2 6 MALLERSTANG FOREST . same belonging ; that the buildings Of the castle cannot b e

s of sa ee extended, for that the co ts maintaining the me exc d

th s f e e proﬁts thereof. Al o that in the said orest th re ar e

v ac c ar ies s o f in divers , and other proﬁt herbage the hands

of a r s and tenants at will, who pay ye rly at Ma tinma £3 0. Whitsuntide,

ss of Anne, Counte Pembroke , relates in her memoirs that

Veter i ont one of c o- r e se Idonea de p , the daughters and hei s s

of r Veter i ont b Robe t de p , who married Roger de Ley urn, m a de a great part of her residence in Westmorland at

s S tanem or e as e in Brugh Ca tle , under , and at Pendragon C tl

s a Maller tang, and the latter place Pendragon C stle ” was her chief and beloved habitation . From this we may

she the conclude that loved retirement, and to be under

of inﬂuence your grand hills . She died here in Pendragon 13 4 3 . s Castle in Also at this ca tle , we learn from Whitaker,

1337 w on in Ed ard Baliol was honourably received, his

s out of ff d e expul ion Scotland, by Robert de Cli or , and ent r tained with m agniﬁcent hunting in the adjoining forest of

of M allerstang. The lord the manor in this way most fully shewed the honours of hospitality to one who makes hims elf momentarily conspicuous in history by his daring and

s of of succe sful invasion Scotland, then under the Reg ency

1332 a Randolph , Earl of Morey, in . Accomp nied by some English noblemen bent on recovering their forfeited e states

w few w s in Scotland , he landed ith a hundred follo er at

s e Kinghorn , in Fifeshire , defeated the Earl Of Fife, pu h d

t Du lin sh boldly in o the country, and in p p moor, in Perth ire, routed with immense slaughter an army upwards of ten 24th times more numerous than his own . On the September,

was r d seven weeks from the date Of his landing, he c owne i King of Scotland at Scone. He had only enj oyed the k ngly R E MALLE STANG FOR ST. 27 dignity for about three months when he was surprised in

a a s his l as his c mp at Annan , and ne rly lo t life , as wel the crown he had so recently as sumed . Subsequently he was

We how expelled from Scotland . are not told long he

s remained an honoured vi itor in Pendragon Castle , enjoying

of f s the hospitality Robert de Clif ord, but during the vi it

s b a ﬁ the fore t was gay y day with m gni cent hunting, and

as the c tle brilliant by night . 134 1 u In the castle was b rnt down by the Sco ts . This 5 was 1 . in the th year of Edward III , during a period of ﬁerce

two hostility between the kingdoms , which ended in the

’ s defeat of the Scottish army at Nevil Cross , near Durham ,

and of . the taking the Scottish king, David II , prisoner.

was r 15 4 1 The castle estored , however, and in the year was

to u is again reduced ruin . The cause of its r in on th occasion ’ I c annot ascertain ; it took p lac e in the 32nd year of the

IlI son ff n V . reign of He ry Henry, of Henry Lord Cli ord , w was . as and Ann St . John , his wife , lord of the manor He

b r VIlI. afterwards created Earl of Cum erland , by Hen y , and

w r Knight of the Garter . He as several times L o d Warden

s of the Marche , and behaved with great nobleness and gallantry in the wars against Sco tland ; and possibly the

s s c astle was on thi oc casion al o demolished by the Scots . To

f ou this ruin Camden re ers in his history . And when y remember that the materials for his history came no lower

15 89 r a than , you will see clearly that he became conve s nt with the r uin in the lifetime of those who must have “ : remembered the demolition . He says The noble river

u s Eden , called by Ptolemy, It na, rising in York hire has at ﬁrst only a small stream but inc reasing gradually by the conﬂuence of several little rivers seeks a passage through

- a s these mountains to the north west, by Pendr gon Ca tle , to 28 MALLERSTANG FO REST . which age has left nothing but the name and a g reat heap

o f s . w r G tones In a note to the above, Ed a d ibson, who

the 16 9 5 translated and edited work in , says : Pendragon

’ C was not of s astle a great heap stone in Mr . Camden s time

w in s when the alls, being four yards thicknes (with battle m w a 1660 ents upon them) , ere st nding till the year , that

the nn ff s the most noble lady, Lady A e Cli ord, Counte s

Dowager Of Pembroke, Dorset, and Montgomery, repaired

s of a s thi ancient home her ancestors, with three more c stle f which she had in this county, and removing frequently rom o ne to s ff s another, kept ho pitality and di u ed her charity all s w on s over the country . This ca tle is ashed the ea t by the river Eden ; and on the other s ides there are great t renches, as if the ﬁrst builder had intended to draw the ff water round it. But the attempt proved ine ectual , from whence they have an old rhyme hereabouts

L U a do a c an et ter Pendr gon wh t he , i r an The river Eden w ll r un where it .

There are two or three statements in this extract which n s s eed remark, and the ﬁrst is, that Gib on is omewhat severe o n his author in saying that it was n ot a heap Of stones possibly it was not in the most literal sense for in the in s cription that appeared over the castle gate we learn that “ it had layen ruinous without timber or any covering eve r since the year From this it would appear clearly that the castle was uninhabitable , which is probably what Cam “ ” s d en meant by the expression a heap of st ones . Gib on a lso says that the castle is washed on the east by the river

on Eden ; it is the west . The well known couplet as at present rendered by the people is .

Let Uter Pendragon do wh at he c an ” Eden will run where Eden r an . M A L L s asu xo m assr . 29

This saying is frequently appropriated and applied to express determination and ﬁrmness. Carefully I have

ir d a enqu ed into its history , and have iscovered merely, th t

s i th it is very ancient . The objection to the pos ibil ty of e t attempt that occurs to the visi or is, that the bed of the

is river is at present very much below the castle. It possible however, that it has worn down its bed during the last

d is a . a or ye rs Undoubte ly the moat only partly m de.

s r to Dr. Simpson say Uter endeavou ed strengthen the

e stronghold by drawing around it the wat rs of the Eden . The stream which is sometimes much swollen and rapid was

too m however, much for him , the dam which he had ade

s acros the river was washed down , and the memory of this a out r e ttempt to turn the water of its usual course , only ”

i s . n n of ma n in the old proverb An e , Cou tess Pembroke, 1 D . s 660A . restored the ca tle in , and in her diary she says she for med the design of restoring it so early as the yea r 16 15

Wolr id e M r . . . t the for a library for C g On its restora ion, following inscription cut upon a stone was over the entrance gate Thi s Pendragon Castle was r ep ayr ed by the Lady

A n n ff s of Cli ord , Countes dowager Pembroke, Dorsett, and

’ M ont omer ie S her iflesse g , and Vescic , High , by inheritance, of

c u W o f the o nty of estmorland, and Lady of the honour

r in 1660 Skipton in C aven, the year so as she came to lye in 166 1 in it herself for a little while October, after it had layen ruinous without timber or any covering ever since the

’ Is 5 8 2 1 . . 1 154 . . G year aiah Chap , ver od s name be ” praised. She also built a bridge here over the Eden and in 1662 we learn from her memoirs a wall of lime and stone round the piec e of- ground she had caused to be taken in being

e s two s quart rs high , and ninety roods in compas , with gate , 30 MALLERSTANG FO REST .

s w and within it a table , coach house, bre house, bake house , ” h s wash ou e, and a little chamber over the gate that is arched . The buildings here referred to were outside the castle moat and some of them seem to have stood on the north side of the w and gate going into the ﬁeld in hich the castle stands ,

s o f perhaps, ome them in the ﬁeld where the well is, not far from the river.

after wai ds The castle was dismantled by Thomas, Earl

f 1685 . s o Thanet, in the year Its neces ity as a keep

to u had ceased exist, and so he nroofed it, and taking possession of the lead which was worth something in those f all s r a in . days, and other valuables, le t the ca tle a After

of this, in the estimation the inhabitants, it was little more “ ” t of han a heap stones, and became , henceforth , a quarry from which stones were taken for building purposes on the

e of of . states the lord the manor Hence , there may be seen

at the present day , stones built into the walls and door ways of c ow w houses, hich by their chiselled work, shew their

to the s . of former relation ca tle Some the men and women ,

of saw s a however, the last generation the tones c rted away

. In our of from the ruin with regret day, the work further f d o . emolition, except that which is the work time, has ceased

Time, however, is an invisible but constant destroyer ; and

’ we cannot but be in sympathy with the lines of Wordsworth s dream of its restoration . He says : — How glad Pendragon thoug h the sleep — O f yea rs be on her she shall reap

A as of s a as t te thi gre t ple ure viewing , i “ A s in a dream her own renew ng .

We wonder whether this dream will ever become a reality. A reality such as this castle was is impossible ; neither

n he s at o ham From so g at t fea t Br ug Castl e . r o as s MAL L ERSTANG r . 31

us would it be desirable . The ruined stronghold reminds

f d M r o . more forcibly than any other object the ark ages . “ in his l as Froude , able history, recognises church bel s the ” m ho w of the a . pec uliar creation medi eval age Bell usic ,

e ev r, has a place , and a charming place in our social life

- not to d ay which we should like to part with . Whereas a feudal stronghold is an anachronism in the age in which we

and s and live, whilst it sugge ts the cavalcade the chase , it has s of of of another side , and tell unsettled times, strife ,

s s of t lawles ne s , insecurity of life and proper y, and of the

of ra s thraldom the people . Pend gon Ca tle , which seems to

a sigh for restor tion , rebuilt , and the abode of domestic

a s t is a comfort, such every ruly English home , would be l splendid crown to its dark and su len history. And the

I saw a A flag which l st summer floating over ppleby Castle , would look equally well floating over one of the restored

towers of its sister at Pendragon . ’ 6 We learn from M ac hell s MSS . that in 1 64 Robert

r B aithwaite, gentleman , lived at Pendragon Castle , four f years after its restoration, and that his wi e threw herself

off to of r We the p Pend agon Castle, and destroyed her life . also learn from the Kirkby Stephen church regi ster that in the year 164 8 there was buried at Kirkby Stephen Richard

Darby, slain by Robert Atkinson , Bluegrass , Mallerstang,

’ a nd w in l en that he sle him the next bottom close , above

’ d n o . ragon Castle, Lord s day in the afternoon Tradition

says that the occasion was a duel , and the weapon used, a

sword . S o far as I can learn this is all we know of Pendragon

for m Castle , the foundation stones of which have so any

a of centuries listened to the b bbling waters the Eden . I

har d of w have seen, says the ancient Mallerstang, the alls 32 O MALLERSTANG F REST.

f o . Pendragon , but they were desolate The music had resounded in the halls but the voice of its people is heard

no more . The stream of Eden had removed from its place,

f of al by the all the w ls . There the thistle shook its lovely

s d head . The mos whistled in the wind . The fox looke

from the windows, and the rank grass of the wall waved w f round his head . Desolate is the d elling o Pembroke silence is in the house of her The desolation here referred to has been the source of poetic inspiration to

f i . one o I . s many, from which will make a selection It

. G w . from an old MS book written by Mr. arth aite , who 6 was a schoolmaster in Mallerstang 0 years ago . The poem.

is signed H . H .

In a fai a s s s r v le where inuou Eden roll , The vestig e of an ancient castle stands ;

as m of him s am a s The ylu who e n e it be r , T i is s a i s a “hen c vil d cord r g ed w thin thi l nd .

O ft has this lofty dome t e - echoed back ’ a s i o f m a ia mi s The cl rion sound del g ht rt l nd . Within these walls has once been hung ’ s s o Such ta pestry as adorn a Prince c urt. Its tables oft have groaned with m assy pla te m s f as s a for s s And su ptuou e t prep red purpled g ue t . O ft has the shining goblet g raced the board

Filled with the liquor of Hesperian fruit. m sse f ms of s s d E bo d in gold, here, or heroe too , f a s s Whose valia nt e t the culptured metal told . Helmets and spears torn from the conquered foe The boasted trophies of these martial knights a a In this grey dome once cast an wful gl re .

ah fa of s a s But the te ublun ry thing , That lofty pile with turrets in the clouds s em a s ss mm s Who e well c ented w ll thickne i en e, s s on mass a s And ullen door y pill r hung ,

! ‘ r om G arthwaite s M S S . om os or o a of F c p ed c pied by F wcett Hunter, Fell

E d a s o da a 1797 . n , R ven t ne le, d ted

G 34 MALLERSTAN FO REST . formerly to be a stone with this inscription T his c hap el was new r e a r ed a nd c over ed with blew slates in 1 7 6 s p y , From thi we infer that the roof was thatched before ; indeed of this

e s a there is undoubted evidence . B neath this tone there w s

was another, which the wind blew down some years ago , and

the replaced by the Rev . R . Robinson , late incumbent, when

w r e- on n he like ise slated the roof the fro t side of the chapel ,

own . and took down and rebuilt the east wall , at his cost The present stone bears exactly the same inscription as the “ old one s : of n , and is as follow This Chapple Mallersta g, 50 60 after it had layne ruinous and decayed some or years,

r e a r ed ff was newe p y by the Lady Anne Cli ord , Countesse

Dowager of Pembroke, Dorsett, and Montgomery, in the

1663 who s year also endowed the ame with lands , which she purchased in C awtley near Sedbergh to the yearly value f ” o eleven pounds for ever. “ We learn from this that the Chapel had layne ruinous and

ar decayed some 50 or 60 years. Probably this was l gely o wing to the unsettled state of things during the Reformation . d f ha o . Ecclesiastically, things got out gear The old order

h ad not new. yet changed, giving place to the Meanwhile , the condition of the people must have been sad in the

no of m e xtreme . There was other place worship for the to

o to the n u g , and they must have been, in la g age of scripture, “ ” n a a s sheep not havi g a shepherd . And all honour to L dy

of Anne , Countess Pembroke, that she pitied the destitute

the e c ondition of the people here by restoring Chap l , and

for making provision the permanent settlement of a minister, who should conduct divine service and teach the children to read and write and in those days, when there was no School

u - o . Board as y have to day, such a provision was a great boon

o f of The original deed, under the hand the Countess M A L L E RS T A N O O F REST . 35

now o f l Pembroke , in the possession the Atkinson fami y at

as l Dale Foot, is fol ows

Whereas I lately purchased cert ain lands in C awtley

S a near edbergh in the County of York, to the yearly v lue of £ 11 or thereabouts which lands I have given unto and settled upon the Chapel of M allerstang in the County o f

a for Westmorl nd for ever, and to the use and maintenance o f to i e and s t a reader read div ne servic , and to teach in truc the children of the dale of Mallers tang aforesaid to read and

r a l d l w ite, which ch rge hath been and is stil i igently and care

rm b “f fully perfo ed y Rowland right , clerk , to the general goo d sati sfaction of the neighbourhood there and my desire is and I do hereby recommend the same to such o f my heirs as shall succeed me in my lands of inheritance in the said t County of Wes morland, and to any others whom it may concern that the said Rowland Wright may be continued

a his f in the s id charge during li e, and enjoy the yearly

n s proﬁts of the said la ds, and other the appurtenance

of belonging to the said Chapel Mallerstang, he behaving himself (as he hath hithert o done) without any j ust caus e of exception.

Anne Pembroke,

22 N ovr . Brougham Castle , this of ,

sealed and delivered in the presence of

ai Robert Br thwaite ,

G eo . Sedgwick,

Edmond Harker.

n a I am The R owla d Wright mentioned afores id , inclined

i the new to th nk , was the ﬁrst one appointed under order of

too v of things, and that, , after a lengthened inter al pastoral 36 M A LLERSTANG FO REST .

am s neglect . And I al o inclined to think that the appoint

a and wm of ment was made by L dy Anne , that the endo ent

£ 11 was a subseq uent provision towards his support . ’ G arthwaite s s 16 1 I learn from Mr. paper that in the year 7

was l Robert Moore was appointed minister. He , I shou d

s m s suppo e, the im ediate successor of Rowland Wright , who e name is mentioned in the aforesaid deed of endowment

16 to w dated 67 . And it may be interesting to you kno that the folllo wing inscription was on the pulpit in the Mallerstang Chapel BE E s s 169 1 RO RT MOOR crip it .

And E z ra the scribe sto od upon a pulpit of wood which he m ade — 4 for preaching . Neh . viii . .

a in oo of L aw of G od s i ar a And he re d the B k the di t nctly, id g ve " m to s a — s s and a se a . . 8. the en e c u d the under t nd the re ding Neh viii.

o o mi s am a 1671. R bert M ore, ni ter, c e nno

Thi s pulpit was replaced by a pulpit and r eading desk

17 9 8 one u made in the year , and which is the , I pres me , n w o in use .

I have also the following list through the kindness of Miss “ a to Fawcett . It is headed, A book of yearly wages p yable

of s . r the Chapel Maller tang, written by Mr Robert Moo e, 15th w June the , as follo s

H R G G I L . O O UTH L S IL L .

Kn ubb and Henry Garthwaite Thos. ewst Henry Hebden Jobn his Brother a Knewstubb Thos. Fothergill P ul John Atkinson Widow Turner

a . F s. N ewstubb a G bl othergill Tho , R lph a and Henry S haw Sh w , Lionel

s Turner Tho . Wright ‘ ’ M A L L E R S IA N G r o ussr . 37

w z G . C asr wr n u r . A IS ILL Richard Fothergill and T i m" 5'“field Henry Whitfield a Th os. W rd ld nr s. Wlutfie Tho , J John Shaw H n Sha . . a wai e Mr Robt Br ith t , We ghItseil; John Fothergill

’ G 8° Har m o Ma tt. Whitﬁeld

w S our n m s.

‘ E L M G IL L .

s s Tho . Tun tall Edward Shaw

S a ma W. he r n S a The tenement, let, to Hy John h w i and s al Hugh Fotherg ll R d . Tun t l Wm F Robert Shaw 8 0

Ha xomo LUN D . Henry Sha w 2 4

Jno Knewstubb 1 4 . 5 H“ 1‘ l 2 4

W. Gibso n 6 O D E E P G IL L Hu i 0 10 John gg nso n T ho T unstall T h l s. os. Wharton 0 o Jeffery Fothergill 0 10 Brian Hugginso n 1 2

3 8

S A N D F or .

1 5 H L M A N G ER O B. 0 1 mg ! Wido w Wharto n l 4 a Anth. S h w John Whar ton 1 0

5 1 6 2 “ Dr. Burn says : The ancient salary of the chapel was a o £3 b ut 108 . a year. And the foregoing amounts to about

S ee n . 121 for o on a o of s an d som of th e o am s App e dix , p , n te deriv ti n thi , e ther n e 38 MALLERSTANG FO REST .

sum that , commenced, no doubt, by certain payments which landowners in the dale had agreed to make when the chapel was n of the founded, and Ca on Simpson is Opinion that original list may possibly be found in the Reg i stry at

s of the Carlisle , and would mo t likely give us the date

d . of . present foun ation the chapel Here, I may add, that there are those hearing me who a few years ago saw a copy

s s n u m of such a li t ig ed by Robert H nter, avowedly taken fro d . r a list much Older I have endeavoure to unea th it, but ! has . have been unsuccessful . I fear it been destroyed It would appear from this that we cannot trace the sub sc r i tions n15 3 e p to the minister earlier tha 4 . Still ther

’ is nothing in Rober t Hunter s testimony to discredit the

' xi n T h r i i n possible e ste c e of an earlier list . e subsc p t o s O f the

1810 t had people continued until the year , except tha they d w iminished ith the increase Of the chapel endowments . In the Terrier Of the chapel lands I ﬁnd the following : Item: The inhabitants of Mallerstang pay yearly to the Cur ate for his use the sum O f two pounds seventeen shillings and el en en e s s s of ev p c . Thi is the last record I pos e s any

the contributions being raised by the people . However,

e ff r for minister does not s em to have su e ed on that account , whilst Rowland Wright had eleven pounds a year plus the

’ n ff ss people s three pounds ten shilli gs, the Rev . Je ery Bowne ,

1810 out d in whose time the Terrier Of was made , receive

- altogether ninety four pounds, taxes included.

Since delivering the above I have h ad the g ood fortune to meet with h h s o a s a h m s of th e sa m da in anot er copy of t e li t f w g e p yable to t e ini ter, e te, s His o o has in addi o to th e e oss ss of M r . h os. ad th p e ion T Bl e . c py , h wever, , ti n “ s th e o o a a o a also a s m a a o a M r li t, f ll wing v lu ble n te I h ve i il r cc unt by ' “ ri M r . M oo s r d sso d M r . o a d da e d W ght, [ re p e ece r, I ju ge, R wl n Wright] t m s o a e to an a o o e 16 9 . In o a o s s t O ct b r, 6 b th cc unt there ee be r ference cc unt,

- d a d O o I am o s &c . te ct ber, , y ur , ,

1814 O BER T UN T E R . . R H MALLERSTANG FO REST . 39

1867 no In , the date of the last Terrier, there is record of “ ” u c C awtle s bs riptions but I read These three estates, at y ,

ar d the n G s ale , and Sedbergh , combi ed rents of which £15 7 “ amounted to , constitute the whole of the property

M r belonging to the living of allerstang. They are free f om ” tithes, rent charges, and all payments whatsoever. And the s for s s 1882 pre ent provision your mini ter in thi year, ,

r is, I unde stand , much better, which is as it should be ; “ s a is O f inasmuch as the wi e man s ys, Better the end a ” thing than the beg inning thereof. In the year 1670 Archbishop Sheldon addressed a circular “ s of letter to all the bishop his province , commanding them

of s r to take notice all Nonconformi ts, holders, frequente s ,

s of o i maintainer , and abettors c nventicles, espec ally of prea chers or teachers in them and of the place s where they were held : ever keeping a more watchful eye over the cities and r n r g eat tow s, f om whence the mischief is for the most "

dz c . part derived unto the lesser villages and hamlets, 16 76 Canon Simpson informs me that in the year , after the

’ of s issue Archbishop Sheldon s letter, the following name were returned from Mallerstang as amongst those who ob sti nately refuse or wholly absent themselves from the C om munion of the Chur ch of England at such times as by law they are required

his f m . and o . Tho Wright, D rothy wi e

. w tu b O Kne s b . J.

d his if . un. an Hen . Whitﬁeld, j , w e

liz E t C r ss a . h. o d le

a and A n s his if . John Sh w, g e w e f s Knewstubb and E liz th . his . Tho . , wi e

W a m. a Sh w, Cockl ke .

The foregoing were Nonconformists. Where they met for 0 4 MALLERSTANG FOREST.

h we not fac t o wors ip know , though the , could it be as er

tained ou. , would doubtless be interesting to y We need not be surprised to learn that there were Nonconformists - here they were at that time numerous in the adjoining dale of

of Ravenstonedale , wher e they enjoyed the ministry the

M a dl . t . . Rev. Chris opher Jackson, Of g Coll , Camb , who had

s G C alam been ejected from the Church at Cro by arrett. y ’ “ his tells us in Nonconformists memorial, that he lived

s of R av istonedale meanly upon a little e tate in the parish , ” “ preaching occasionally. He adds : Some minister who had him conformed once telling that he had a bare coat , he

’

If . made this answer, his coat was bare, it was not turned This dry and pithy retort is in itself characteristic of the R av enstondale people. From the fact that there was con sider able at intercourse between the two dales, and th the names of Mallerstang in the foregoing list are identical with t of hose Ravenstonedale , I think it likely that they were in

s on deep ympathy with each other this question . Moreover, at that time Philip, fourth Lord Wharton , was living at

W of r d harton Hall, just beyond the boundary you ale towards Kirkby Stephen ; and it is known to most of y ou f m that he was a distinguished Noncon ormist . It is not y business or intention to enter upon the controversies Of those sad and troubled times, except that I think it only fair to add that whilst the endeavour of the heads of the Church of England was then to make the gate of admission

now to the Church as strait as they could, the desire is to make it as wide as possible .

The following is a li st Of the mini sters Of whom we have any record

a i . 1667 . Rowl nd Wr ght. Clerk 16 1 Robert Moore. 7 .

4 2 MALLERSTANG FOREST .

It would not be in good taste for me to characterise your t present incumbent, except to say hat in all my relations l with him I have ever found him courteous and gentleman y.

f of Soon a ter the appointment your present incumbent ,

of was o the chapel , which had got out repair, ren vated and

on 8 1879 reopened the th Of May, , after it had been closed f r o six months . The pulpit at the north side of the Com o munion table was lowered, and the reading desk rem ved to

. new the south side The Communion rails were . A new

as ﬂoor was laid down . The gallery at the west end w

s new taken away. A heating apparatus was put in ; al o outer and inner doors . A vestry was made and suitably u O f ft now f rnished, and all at the expense Sir J . H . Tu on, H hﬁ ld ot e . Lord , the patron Of the living And may your

r d r of chu ch ever remain, what I believe it is to ay, a sou ce

s bright, go pel light .

’ The following are the sources of the chapel s endow ment

1 w of . An estate , the original endo ment the chapel,

O f situated at a place called Wards in Cantley, in the parish

Sedbergh and county Of York, given by Lady Ann, Countess

of &c . Pembroke , , the rent of which is 2 G . An estate called Little Town, in arsdale , in the parish

the of T 17 14 Of Sedbergh, from money given by Earl hanet, ,

’

. £65 . and Queen Anne s bounty Rent,

3 G r . An estate , situated at ill , in the pa ish of Sedbergh, m G 17 7 2 fro money given by the late Lady ower, ,

o £60. and added to the b unty of Queen Anne . Rent, It is the opinion of Canon Simpson that no regular incumbent was appointed until after the grant of Queen

’ Anne s bounty; before that it was a chapel of ease t o the church

! T h e a o is a e om th e of the c h ael la ds 1867 . b ve t k n fr terrier p n , ’ ’ ' M A L L E R S I A N G r o a ssr . 4 3

r sa at Kirkby Stephen . F om the me authority I also learn

O f n N aitb that the three townships Mallersta g, y, and

t r O f s of Whar on fo med one the four division , each which was entitled to appoint a chur chwarden of the parish church of

Kirkby Stephen, and so long as church ra tes were levied , Mallerstang had to contribute its share to the mother

to church . It still pays tithes the vicar of Kirkby Stephen, b ’ b d . s estowe originally y St Mary Abbey, York , and was commuted in the ye a r 1842 at £6 2 per annum . There are t no rec orial tithes, and never were , which proves that the w land in Maller stang was genera lly pasture and meado .

s n wa Seventy years ago, the inhabitant , ﬁnding it a lo g y to carry their dead to Kirkby Stephen , petitioned the Bishop to consecrate a bur ial g round near their own place of

. was worship The ﬁrst interment that of Margaret Moore , d 15 2 an 1813. was 8 . took place July th , She aged Through

s a R W the kindnes of the vic r, the ev. . Alnwick , I have

e b look d through the register, and have een surprised at the th evidence which it furnishes of the longevity of e people .

the se ia tim I select one page , and take names r as they occur, in the exact order in which the burials took ! plac e .

1823.

Dec . 28. a f l A 1 a o . e Buried M ry W rd O uthgil g d 9 .

31. z a ns i of a 86 . Eli beth Bru k ll Cockl ke. Ag ed 1 824 .

F 4 . . . a a i of Blenkhor n eb M rg ret, w dow Hugh She died in Ing ram in the parish of A isgar th

and of Y 87 . county ork. Ag ed M ar . 7 . ha a of a Pot. Ric rd Fotherg ill, l te S nd He at a 8 died Southw ite . Aged 6.

“ Here I should sa y that I re c eived the ﬁrst intimation of this pag e fr om th e a M r a s m a a i a i h e ia s in l te . G . Bl des. Thi fa ily h ve kept pr v te reg ster of t bur l a s a h M ller t ng C urchyard from the beginning . 4 4 F MALLERSTANG OREST.

1824.

9 . a f of i H l l s a e at az e il . June Buried John Metc l e A gill , l t g 8 Ag ed 7 .

o e s of ass A 9 2 R b rt Atkin on Blue gr . g ed . R ennis n a o a . 6 Ann , Cockl ke Ag ed 7 .

a a s a s a . M ry Brown, T rn Hou e, R ven toned le e Ag d 7 8.

There is a sense of completeness that the graveyard

’ G s it— s a od acre, as the Saxons called urrounds the ch pel . It obviates the nece ssity of funeral journeys to Kirkby

i of w Stephen through all k nds rough weather, hich the late

. ad he was old e to and Geo Bl es told me nough remember ; ,

e s s s of moreov r, it is a ati faction to you to have the remain

s your dear ones lying in your mid t . From the recollection s of inhabitants I learn that the

a of oak of ch pel door was double , very massive, with a sort

n f r n r s s ri g o a ha dle o neck . The window were glazed in

r . s lead, with iron bars ac oss to protect them In ide the

s chapel there was a gallery at the west end . The eats were

of oak k s . made , and some Of the bac were beautifully carved

The pulpit and reading desk were likewi se of oak . There is

l n . a chalice and p ate that were prese ted by the Rev W .

m of lik em se Willia son , Vicar Kirkby Stephen , and the large

Bible and Prayer Book used in church . In the bottom

’ e ntrance of the church there u sed to be a stone let into the

out of the s wall, with a round hole hewn tone , with an outlet to pour the water out that had been used at baptism . ‘ f t’ e s The half O the incumben s fe s for burials , christening ,

of and churchings , used to be claimed by the vicar Kirkby

8S 6d Stephen ; and at the death of every landowner . . was u paid to the vicar as a mortuary fee . Every Easter T esday the vicar of Kirkby Stephen preached in the chapel , and , after service , examined the registers and received the fees , r a MALLERSTANG o ssr . 45 and afte rwards the incumbent and churchwardens dined

’ O uth- with him at the King s Head , gill . The vicar O f Kirkby Stephen provided four bottles of wine yearly fo r the

O f i Sacrament. The vicar Kirkby Stephen sent h s clerk

E u s 3d. every aster to collect d e , for every communicant and

s 3d. so many eggs each house , likewi e for every smoke in the farmhouses. There are three books kept in the iron chest which used formerly to stand in a recess behind the pulpit. The

Registers commence in the year 17 30. There used to be a library belonging to the Chapelry of Mallerstang. The books

M a ll s n were well bound , and had a paper inside with er ta g

ha e ibr a r C p l L y written upon it . The subjects generally

u r c a e treated upon Theology , The b rial g ound was conse r t d

9 r by Bishop G oodenough on the th of July in the yea 1813.

The school was in an up stairs room in the chapel . The room

d e r ec ollec is small , and ba ly lighted . Miss Fawc tt says in her “ tions : In the year 1819 my father was appointed curate

£5 0 of of Mallerstang at a stipend of a year, and out this H small income he had to teach the school . ere many of the old dalesmen received a plain , practical education, and had l insti led into them the principles of honesty and uprightness ,

O ld under his care . And many of the farmers will tell you

ne w with pride that the system of education , with their

new - Board Schools and fangled ways , are not able ” u o ut to t rn such scholars as parson Fawcett did. From u “ a subsequent comm nication , Miss Fawcett also says : The

’ s s s table , with the Commandment and Lord Prayer and w Creed , over the communion table , ere painted and

r c - O f lettered by John Moore , Mallerstang, the father to the

n prese t Moores of Ravenstonedale . I believe the people

n h in used formerly to sit o benc es chapel . When my father 4 6 MALLERSTANG FO REST.

was r e—s s was curate , the chapel eated with pews . There u ed

s o f e to be a gallery at the we t end the chap l, but the hand

f on old o change has been laid the building, and all these,

old of a i a like the good times former years, h ve d sappe red.

was or The parish clerk John Fothergill, rather John at

G for his o wn and old reen ( he hardly knew name) , Joe

two Atkinson, the sexton . These were notable characters ,

old had in their day, in the dale ; and when Atkinson to

Q b— i ta leave his house at Shor Gill to come to ut gill, a d s nce

not under three hundred yards, he told my father he could

imagine what he had done that he should be transported .

f r old s Such was the love they had o their homestead . The

Walde r ave n late Bishop, Dr. g , preached in Mallersta g Chapel

1867 to r . in August, , a crowded cong egation His subject l was the brazen serpent, and his sermon wil long live in

the remembrance of the people . The present Bishop, Dr.

a a 1874 Goodwin, visited M llerst ng in , but has never

f s preached in the chapel. He expressed himsel much plea ed ll ” with the simplicity and romantic beauty of the va ey. L EC T UR E I II .

is not my intention in these lectures to enter with

o a anything like detail up n the forest l ws . You will see that it is sufﬁ cient for my purpose to say that they were framed by William the Conqueror, and adopted soon

s after the Norman Conquest . The whole of thi part of the

u R anul h de M esc hines co nty was given to p , one of the knights of William the Conqueror ; and the laws of the for est here were no doubt modelled on those of his august

s and s maste r. Nichol on Burn, in their History of We t “ n of morland , say Also in the tenures of ma y the manors, there were c ertain services respe cting the forests as to kee p

’ ’ a use irey of hawks for the lord s , to herd the lord s hogs

a s to or s during mast g e sea on , watch with nets dog at such a ” suc h of i station. Whether oversight game was a cond tion

a of tenure here or not I c nnot say, although the ﬁne of

£ 20 a Knewstubb and for each , levied on Thom s others , killing a deer in the forest of Mallersta ng so late as the year 1665 I , and to which called your attention in the ﬁrst lecture,

ou of was very severe , when y think the much higher value of money in those days . Happily, however, that period has

a u s e s I gone , and lthough yo r fore t has never b en disfore ted ,

a a ff underst nd , pr ctically it makes no di erence to you. There is no one living who ever remembers to have seen a deer on 4 8 MALLERSTANG FOREST. the hills and the lesser game also have disappeared before the advance of cultivation . Indeed the very term forest,

one a d - e which at time g ve your ale its pre minent distinction ,

Who - a - a f has disappeared . would ever think now d ys o speaking of going to Mallerstang fore st ! Invari ably it would be Mallerstang, or, if speaking in the dialect, Mauston . ’ “ Those of you who have not read Whitaker s History of ” R ic hmondshir e , will be glad to peruse the following extract,

s which bears directly upon the fore t which once existed here . “ He says : After all the encroachments of cultivation in

of D oomesda e u Swaledale since the time y , much for st gro nd

m f e re ained, connected perhaps with the largest tract o wast

. s of of in South Britain The fore ts the Earl Richmond,

of l o f besides that Wens eydale , comprehended that part

of all Stainmore included within the parish Bowes, Apple

dale f A r k en arth . s garth , and g The e were a terwards reduced

N ew to the Forest of later date , as it name imports , than

of ‘ the rest, and lying wholly ln the parish Kirkby Ravens

N - wath . orth west was Lune [Lunds] Forest, and beyond

and Stainmore Mallerstang in Westmorland . Southward lay Bishopdale Chase connected with L ong str athdale in the

of West Riding, and all were ranged by herds wild deer, the

s of our e noble t chase ancient hunters, whose pursuits wer certainly the best preparative s for war both to the knight

e and his steed . Of these the N w Forest alone subsists even ” of . in name . The Duke Leeds is ranger Here I should

fe 11 2d add that up to within the last w years the sum of s. .

to G F ox was paid annually out of the poor rates eorge Lane , “ ’ E s of . e q , called the Duke Leeds money For some tim I have been unable to learn its meaning or design ; the

ﬁne foregoing extract makes it clear. It was originally a

h n th one r h paid to t e ra ger of e forest . There is parag ap

5 0 MALLERSTANG FOREST .

Brougham, Appleby, Brugh under Stainmore, Pendragon,

’ s r n Kirkby Stephen , King Meabu , Langton, Mallerstang,

s Knock , Sowerby, Ea t Stainmore, South Stainmore, Scatter

W M oor hous es u gate and Burrel , oodside, , B rgate, Burgh

r on s a Over, and Bu gh Nether, the death Of the la t gener l

as ss admitting lord, a reasonable ﬁne to be se ed at the will

’ d two or Of the lor , not exceeding years value be payable ; any other and what ﬁne !

2 W O f on . hether by custom the said manors , the death

O f or alienation the tenant, a reasonable ﬁne to be assessed

’ l not s at the wi l Of the lord, exceeding two year value, be

an ! the payable, or y other and what ﬁne The verdict Of jur y was that such ﬁnes according to the yearly value were

. s of not payable But that ﬁr t, by custom the same manors ,

O f on s and every them, the death Of the la t general admitting

ss s lord, a ﬁne to be a e sed at the will Of the lord , not exceed

O ld ing ten pence for every penny rent, commonly called a

a s s tenpenny ﬁne, is p yable ; and econd, that by cu tom

s on r Of the aid manors and every Of them, the death o

alienation Of the tenant, a reasonable ﬁne to be assessed at the will Of the lord not exceeding seventeen penny

was ﬁne is payable . And the same decreed accordingly

by the Lord Chancellor Hardwick . And by consent as to other matters in di spute it was referred to Robert

Fenwick and Joseph Taylor, Esquires, and such other third person as they shoul d appoint to settle the same

who s made an award, and the same was in erted accordingly

’1 a in the decree . Then follow the manori l laws which have 1 9 been in Operation ever since the year 7 3 . 1 . That the tenants hold their tenements according to the

O f of an cient custom tenant right, and as customary estates inheritance, descended from ancestor to heir under certain 5 1 MALLERSTANG FOREST .

ancient yearly rents, and such general and dropping ﬁnes [ﬁnes of sale] as are settled and asc er tained by the order in this cause .

2 s . By the cu tom Of the said manors upon all admittances d 3 . and is where the ancient rent exceeds l s. , no more payable to the steward fo r every single admitta nce : and where 0nd

a s u tenant hath several dmittance at the same co rt, and the

f 1s o . 3s ancient rent Of any one them exceeds , then . is 6d for s . payable the ﬁr t admittance, and for every other where the ancient rent doth exceed l s . then l s. only is payable for every single admittance and where one tenant hath several admittances at the same court, and the ancient

f one l a e O . r nt Of them exceeds , in such case l s only is

6d for payable for the ﬁrst and . every other. That the tenants have a right to Open quarries within their own estates, or in the wastes of the manor, and get

a r or stones for building or rep i ing their houses fences, or

e other necessary uses upon their estat s, without licence Of the

or rr or lord Of his steward ; but may not Open qua ies, get stone out O f quarries in lease or Opened by the lord without such licence .

4 e . That the t nants have right to cut up , take and carry

r or away tu f, peat, heath , furze and bracken fern, upon the

for l wastes fuel and thatching without such icence .

5 s to . That the tenant have right plow and make such

O f husbandry their lands as they think ﬁt, without such licence .

i s or 6 . That the tenants have a r ght to lea e demise their

not r tenements for any term exceeding th ee years .

7 or u . That all absolute sales alienations o ght to be by

a deed poll , or indented ; and the s me to be presented at the

the to d next court, in order for purchaser be a mitted on 5 2 MALLERSTANG FOREST.

O f dr O in s s payment p g ﬁne , Feme covert interested in

s a the s land alien ted to be examined privately by teward .

8 a s f r . Th t the tenant may mortgage o any term not ex c eeding three years without licence or ﬁne ; but when the mortgage(e) is admitted he shall pay a dr O p ing ﬁne the

s ﬁne Of ale].

9 s or . That the tenant may without licence ﬁne exchange lands lying intermixed in common ﬁelds for lands O f equal

:value in the same manor ; so it be with the approbation O f

or s the lord his teward .

10 s . That the tenants may cut down and ell underwood growing in their re spective tenements : and may cut down and use any other wood or timber for repa ir Of their tene

s a s ment , hedge boot, plough boot, c rt boot, estover , and other

ss out or nece ary uses, provided the same be set by the lord his steward (the same to be without fee) in 20 days after

one s not request in writing , attested by witne s, and if set out within that time the tenants may cut down and use the same .

11 sufﬁ . That the lord may fell timber provided he leave

for s s s s s. cient repair , nece sary boot , and e tover

of s Some the foregoing laws are till in force, and others

out the s O f are Obsolete , being Of harmony with pirit the

O f present age . There is no danger, however, these being revived under the wi se and liberal rule Of the present lord Of

1808 s the manor. In the year the tenants Of Raven tonedale

s of purcha ed their freedom the lord Of the manor, and perhaps I may be excused for suggesting that the tenants of

a M llerstang Should , with the consent Of the lord Of the manor, imitate their example . Feudalism rendered its

its service in day, but that day has gone, and all the

our inﬂuences Of age are working in an opposite direction . O E 3 MALLERSTANG F R ST . 5

The ﬁnes Of the lord of the manor amount to about £4 5 per annum. His Court is held at Kirkby Stephen once a year, “ s — and is pre ided over by his steward . One jury homage ” u — for s j ry is held Maller tang, composed as far as can be of

s u a is owners Of property in Maller tang. One j ry lso held for

u is s O f Kirkby Stephen , and a grand j ry con tituted out the two s in , Maller tang and Kirkby Stephen being represented

ix f r . i e. s o equal proportions , . , each At this Court admit

i. s e. . tances are made either by descent or alienation , , by ale From the Court book I learn that up to within the last few

ar O f ye s, when an encroachment the common had been made

’ s h by one of the tenant , the lord s rent upon it, together wit

In s ra s . g ssam and joi t, were determined upon the pre ent

is day no such encroachments are allowed . It entirely beyond the sc e p e O f these lectures to give any lengthy

r extracts from the Cou t book. Still it may interest you to

fe w l hear the ﬁrst entries . After the fo lowing intimation

M a 6th 174 3 y , . After the rental in the ﬁrst page was

was signed by the j ury, the verdict delivered to the steward , — and the following tenants were admitted tenants we “ . son read Mr Lancelot Pattinson , and heir Of Thomas

E s r e. m a O f Pattinson, q , deceased , was ad itted ten nt several messau es ﬁ a 3 5 2d n ble £ 3 . . g and tenements, with the rent of ,

ra and s £ 1 4d 2 s g ssam joi t, l s . . ( ) William Hutchin on was admitted tenant by deed O f purchase fromL anc elott Hutch inson O f a messuage and tenement with the fina ble rent Of ” £ 13s 4 4 3 1 . d £0 38. d. 5 , grassam and joist, 5 ( ) Ralph Milner was admitted tenant by deed of purchase from John Bousfield c f a messuage and tenement with the finable rent

of 12 . s 6d 4 s , gras am and joist . ( ) John Bainbridge was admitted tenant by a mortgage deed from Mary Rudd of a

ﬁn bl 1 s 0 d. e O f 8 . messuage and tenement with the a rent k , B 38 . d grassam and joist i . 5 4 MALLERSTANG FOREST .

all ss- The entries are Of a very busine like character.

all s O f The farms are usu y given in ca e admittances . Admit

s s a s a s tance u u lly pecify the name Of the f rm or farm . The

s s original with the signatures, and in many in tances more

ar ul ar e of ampliﬁed p tic ars , in the possession of the lord the

a s s m nor. Inter persed with the decisions Of the Court revi ed lists occur O f those who were liable to pay rent to the lord

O f 23 the manor. The ﬁrst in the book is dated October ,

175 4 and is , as follows The finable rent the Tenants were admitted tenants to

s a s Honble f their e t te with, to the Right Sacville Earl O Thanet at a Court held the 23r d day Of October 175 4 for asses sing the general ﬁne by William Gorst Gentleman

w s o ste ard . Also the gras am and j y st due out of each

Tenement . na a ssam dz ote Fi ble Rent. Gr J t.

. 8 . . d . Pk d. Pk

O John Wharton 1 14 24, O 4 O Thomas Dent 0 7 11% O 1 Q Philip Wharto n 0 9 3 O 1 Oi

Thomas Ward 0 11 75; O 1 Q Thomas Ward 0 3 4 O o Q O p G Thos . Gascoig ne Clerk W i- O 1o i Isabel Wharton 1 v x James Fothergill O w “ ) Richard Morland O O W 11 O O m 1 4 s O ‘ 1 a a s G O 7 1 L ncelot P tti on , clerk 3, Richard Fothergill John Hutchin son Agnes Whitﬁeld Thomas G arthwaite Edward Metcalf Anthony Ward 3 m Adam Robinson 6 4 John Shaw 12 81; A 5 5 MALLE RST NG FO RE ST.

Joint.

John Meta li

n H William Hutc hinson A gnes Winn

William Fother gill

Anthony Fothergill John Atkinson Richard Dixon I saiah Fothergill

John Ste ward John Bainbridg e 2

M arg aret Ellens

Jam es Shaw

John F other n

Henry Sha w

z e. a . El i Sh w, j un

Robert Blenkam Ann C owp erthwaite Robe rt Parkin 5 6 G MALLERSTAN FO REST .

i a e . i F n bl Rent Grassam JO st.

8 . d . . 8 d . Pk . Pk Robert Jon son 9 3 11% Benj amin Shaw 4 6 5h

7 6 10 “ n v 2 William Winn 1 9 2 3 as Thom as Tunstall 0 11 1 1 2 John Tun stall 0 12 6 1 l ﬁ O 15 0 2 1s Bria n Hugginson 0 7 1 1 253 Robert Hug ginson 0 10 6 1 6 Edward H az el 0 13 5 2 8 Samuel Shaw 0 9 8 10§

In the foregoing list mention is m ade of char ges in gr assom and j O iest : the meaning Of g r asSom is grassing

O iest or s upon the common, and j agistment cattle gate ;

’ s s a is these are not subject to lords ﬁne . Al o the pl ck m mentioned, a small coin which owing to the di inution in

' o t O f u . the value Of money, has gone entirely use, as the f in ur d w o a . . arthing is going out Of use y Mr Garth aite , to

s f who e MSS . I have referred before, copied the ollowing from “ a 1813 d a s s ss a Kendal p per, dated . Tra ition s y ome bra tokens were coined at Kendal about the year 165 6 called

a s O f pl cks, and state that three Of them were the value Of a

f s hal penny . On the plack the Reverend W . Thomp on has

r s fu nished me with the following excellent note . He ays

' ' laek was c oin for m erl The p a copper y current in Scotland .

O f a - t of lis It was the v lue Of one hird an Eng h penny.

la ue— The word is derived from the French p g ﬂ. thin piece

s r . Of metal . It is Of frequent allusion in Scotti h literatu e I quote one out O f several allusions in Bum s

’ s ae fa s la ' m There wee ut they while y to e , — I like the lasses Gude forgie m e

F or m a a f a m e ony pl ck they wheedle r e , a or fai At d nce r .

R MALLE S T A N G FO REST.

os a s a Th . Bl de l te Peggy Blades ditto late Joseph T hr oup am s s a J e Atkin on , l te Robert Atkin

a a a a s Henry W lley l te S r h Robin on . H Matthew Robinson a a f M tthew Metc l . n H Robert Burra late Matthew T homp son ditto l ate ditto o R bert Fotherg ill H ﬂ Jane Fa wcett a a a l te M ry F wcett . Ma ry Fawcett 3, Jane Fawcett l ate Mary Fawcett

v 9 ) E liz th Fawcett

John Graing er

Ag nes A nn Thompson late John Thompson Eleanor Sha w

s a A b r ahm Jo eph King l te Dent 9 ) Thom as Mason la te John Dickinson M idland Railway C ompany late a s Georg e Bl de 37 ditto la te John Graing er a ms a ditto l te John Gri h w H a l te ditto v H

a . . . . a ditto l te A E M J F wcett M D

a a ditto l te J ne 2)

a a f ditto l te Anthony Metc l 3! H ditto late ditto a a a m ditto l te Abr h Dent N H

a a a ditto l te J ne F wcett n ditto late Robert Burra (in s tru t) I, S)

at . . 85 . a ditto l e A . E M J F wcett

Pasture Rent. nA L L E R S T A N G F oR E sT . 5 9

Also amongst the admittances there is one entry which shows that the subject of it mus t have produced considerable

r e xcitement at the time, to draw aside a ch onicler who in e very other instance is so colourless and indifferent to what

It is u is passing . this At a court holden by adjo rnment

1 5 4 s 2l st da 7 . the y of May, The reason of thi court not being kept at the usual time was occasioned by the great c ontested election for the burrow O f A p p lby betwixt Lo rd of t Thanet and Sir James Low her, which election continued a

s r of month, and at the hutting up Of the books Lo d Thanet ” u s had a majority O f 13 vote s. Evidence is f rni hed here of o ne of those election struggles which at the time engrossed

has s . so much attention, but long ince been forgotten

on of d The last admittance but e is Mr. Thomas Bla es ,

a 11th 1882 to s his a . d ted October , , the estate of f ther, Mr

s . . a George Blade , recently deceased Mr Thom s Blades also ! s ff succeed his brother as baili Of the manor, and to his kindness and courtesy I am indebted for much valuable

nf i ormation in the se lectures . The following is a copy of the writte n record of the

and s admittance into the Court Book , as it is the la t, at this date given , I will furnish it in full

L and a o Of the a MANOR The Court eet, Court B r n Rig ht Honor ble

am s a o Hothﬁeld of Hothﬁeld of th e sai O F. Henry J e B r n , Lord d Ma nor held a t the Black Bull Inn Kirkby Stephen within the Ki s s er sa id Manor o n lVednesday the eleventh day of O ctober 1882 STEPHEN by Edward B selia E sq r Steward o f the sa id Ma nor

The names of the Jurors to enquire for the Lord of the Ma nor afore said and betwee n Ten ant and Ten ant for Mallerstang Thomas Blades Forem an John Cla rk Ro bert Fother gill John H arri son Abram Dent John Iveso n Thomas Cleasby James Sa vag e John Thompson Lancelo t Fairer Robe rt Troug hton John Dodd

Who n s and a d se and as f s bei g worn ch rg e , Pre nt ﬁnd ollow ,

S ee a 122. Appendix , p g e 6 O MALLERSTANG FOREST .

We the Hom ag e Jury of the Lordship of Mallerstang present and

a s as a nd m as a s his s ﬁnd Georg e Bl de dece ed , Tho Bl de only urviving S on and Cu stom ary Heir of All that Messuag e and T enem ant con sisting s nd ut of a. Dwelling Hou e a O ther O Building s and severa l Closes of Land thereto belonging at A ng er holme A lso a close of Land Called L o w Holm e p art of a Tenement called Ing ends containing by estimation four Acres and ﬁve perches be the sam e more or Less Also a messuag e and Tenement Situate a nd being at Ing heads c on sisting of a Dwelling House two Barn s and several Inclosures of L and with the A p ur tenanc es in Mallerstang within the sa id Manor of the

a a m a O l sam 8d and s. as s s s of £2 I S . 2d. s . 5 ever l ye rly Cu to ry Rent . Gr

and oist 4s. 5 d a nd S and O s s and s J % . ixpence ther Due Dutie Service a £2 16s 10d Fin ble Rent . .

assa m a nd s 4s l l d Gr Joi t . ﬁ . THOMAS BLADES Forem an We also present and ﬁnd that Matthew Metcalf by Deed dated the 3oth day of December 1881 hath Aliena ted to John Bland D a vis all that Messu ag e and Tenement and several Closes or Inclosures and parcels of Land the ir unto Belonging Called Southwaite (form erly ’ Winn s) Also A ll that Messuag e and Tenement and several Closes of L and called C astlethwaite (formerly Wards) conta ining all tog ether

42 s 1 R ee d and 19 s or t a s w A ur tenanc es Acre Perche here bout , ith the p in M allerstang within the S aid Manor of the yearly cu stom ary Rent of d an wo lac k n s 1 2s l O d assam and oist 2s. 2 . d t B s a d £ . t . Gr J 2 other Due Duties and Services 1 10. r d a s Fin able Rent £1 23 . 2 Pl ck d sa m an oist 2s 2 d. 2 Gras J . §

THOMAS BLADES Forem an .

We now come to the roads . The present road through

r It was Mallerstang is mode n . made under an Act sixth

2 25 wa - i f . 1 18 s tur n k d o . e year George IV , cap , , and dis p a

he and for few s . t years ince The course of old road , which

f . s was o . I have the authority the late Mr Geo Blade , as “ s s out follows . The e are his word : It crossed Hell Bridge

s W l of York hire into estmorland, over Hel Gill Woad to ! E nd . Woad , down Woad Side to Elm Gill Thence along

“ T h e o d oa is sa d to a o on of o d an d on th e o d w r w d i be c rrupti w l , w r o W s sa s in his D o a : o in a o is the sa m as a d and w ld, eb ter y icti n ry W ld, S x n , e w l "

a a oo som m s a s a aw or a a . we ld, w d eti e perh p l n pl in R O MALLE STANG F REST. 6 1

h m n on t e c o mon to Thra g Bridge . Thence along down the S h l s s or il . ﬁeld to Eden. Acro s the Eden to g Thence through the ﬁelds to Sand Pot . Thence down the common ‘ " to Birkett. Thence across the Eden to Wharton Park . The following is another contribution also on the roads from the same authority and so quaint and graphic is it that you

sa would be sorry for it to be omitted . He ys : The pack horse s used to come into Maller stang from Cotterdale ; they

l c a s passed a p a e c lled Cotter End , acros the common , and over Hell Gill Bridge there they entered Mallerstang, kept on the common until they came to Thrang Bridge . Those

’ that had set out from G r isedale r came acros s the common until they came to High Shaw Paddock ; they then came along some enclosed common 5 on leaving that enclosed common they entered Mallerstang Common , thence down to

i ll to r w Aisgill , and from A sgi Th ang}: Bridge , where the t o parties generally met on their way to the Kirkby market

in . . G eo with butter their baskets Mr . Blades remembered

s s p ac k hor e going from Swaledale to Kirkby Stephen . He

ar particul ly recollected noticing their wooden saddles, on

85 I 0. which they tied bags, Here may remind you that there is still an inn at Kirkby Stephen with the sign of the Pack Horse ; and when the M aller s tang ians used to go to

i s on K rkby Stephen to be married , the dam els rode horse

n s back o pillions behind their trusty swains . Al o Mr . Blades told me that he remember ed about Sixty years ago a Scotch dr over came into the township with a herd of Highland

m an a cattle . The , tired , sat down , and the beasts lay round

s to his him . On ri ing continue journey he played the bag pipes , and the cattle followed him

h r th e ir o T h e place w e e b ch tree g r ws. f l . a th bear . G r ised a e i e. o e f , , D le wild m of . T he ad c a a s o is n s r an s . 3Th g r i l e ning thi w rd hurryi g , pre ing 62 MALLERSTANG FOREST.

s on s of s Whil t we are thi subject road , I should add that

s off there was al o a road that branched at Aisgill , and went

and ss the over Anger Holme road , cro ed boundary over

th e s Scarth Nick , thence down common in Raven tonedale to

nner s K eu h old S te g , joining the road from Sedbergh to Kirkby

s a Stephen at Street . Thi road is used occasion lly still . The other road from Mallerstang into Ravenstonedale , and of which the writer has in the winter time had troublesome

off experience, branches from Pendragon Castle , and passes

L aw on A sh . over Green , to Fell

s to of Previou the introduction railways, the road through Mallerstang was a great and crowded thoroughfare during

a a of s Brough Hill F ir. It is s id that many the inhabitant of Ravenstonedale used to go there to witness the animated “ scene a miscellaneous panorama of men and things — deﬁling through the dale and that they might lose no mb time, took their knitting with them. Amongst the i abi

r s f tants , I am told, the e were ome thri ty ones, who, eighty

a o out on years g , used to go up to Hell Gill Bridge , and set

t s &c . tables, nu s, apple , gingerbread, sweeties, , to sell , to those who were going to or from Brough Hill Fair. At other

w for times, ho ever, the road was sequestered and dangerous — travellers to venture upon , owing to highwaymen three

— s especially who lived in the dale . Their name were Ned

of F ar c lose s Ward, a native the dale, who lived at Hou e ;

was Riddle , who a border man ; and Brodrick, who seems to have come from Orton . These men seem to have been

of — is highwaymen the magnanimous stamp that to say, they

or of r would not rob the poor any their neighbou s indeed,

s n though their practice were know , they were in a certain

s . sen e respected by their neighbours However, this high way robbery very properly came to an end at last . A robbery 6 3 MALLERSTANG FOREST.

had been committed in which these men were implicated . T wo ofﬁ cers on horseback went to S hor gill and secured

T he on d . Bro rick y then went up the dale , and crossed

’ r Th ang Bridge , and entered Ward s house , standing only a W r to . sho t distance beyond it , apprehend ard He was at

t s d and u the ime only partly dre se , asked permission to go p

s the stairs and ﬁnish dressing. No ooner was he on upper

on storey than he removed the thatch , got out the roof,

’ on of s descended , leapt one the ofﬁcer horses, and galloped

' ﬂ one f was o . Almost immediately, of course, of the o ﬁcers in

s on the of full pur uit other horse, which was the better the

. W two . The chase must have been exciting So ard galloped

his down Boggle Green , and ﬁnding pursuer close upon him,

s leapt from his horse and crossed the Eden . Thi his pursuer could not do, and so sent a bloodhound in full pursuit.

d and Meanwhile Ward descende the dale, came to Hall Hill .

no w u . The dog was close pon him This, Scaife, a resident, seeing from his house, sent a lad to him with a thick stick,

a with which he disabled the dog. Soon fterwards be con

o s t c aled him elf in a coal level , and from hence, when he

to L adfoot thought it safe, went his cousin at . Here he

s w clothed him elf, and set out for Ne castle , where he worked “ . Joe a for many years in the mines. Mr Steel s w him in

Kirkby Stephen long after, an old man ; he and his brother

’ Kit were together. Brodrick , who had turned king s evi i dence , remained in prison for awh le . On regaining his freedom he was an altered man ; he became a good and

of useful member society . He was a mason by trade , and b built Musgrave Bridge , and the portico and sta les of the

’ n Ki g s Arms, Kirkby Stephen .

I s Q b Here must notice the public hou es . ut G ill had an inn twenty years ago . Indeed there had been an inn there 6 1 O MALLERSTANG F REST .

S ’ from time immemorial , its ign was the King s Head . Cranberry was al so a public house thirty years ago its Sign was the Black Bull . The woman who kept it about a

s was hundred year ago quite a character. Her name was “ ” sh was s R a s s e . Bet y Ward, though u ually called p y Bett

v s is She had ne er married , I under tand ; but it said that when the Scotchmen were driving their cattle and sheep

of s i into the Craven districts York h re , they occasionally

put up at her house for the night . When they enquired

s a our s Where h ll we leave cattle, mis us, what part is ” s she s to fa your ! u ed say, standing with her ce to the

as d common , and winking as hard she coul , with a peculiarity

’ “ t to hat belonged her, while pointing to the common , Put ” ou see own them where y like 5 all that I is my . Such an anecdote shows of how much less value land was in those

S h e s of days . However, did recogni e the rights her neigh

of of s al bours to a share the common , which she occa ion ly

at took a large portion , by giving them a jolly feast the

s s a s . s Christma e on It was really a good feast, tradition ays,

s - that they did not oon forget . There was a public house at ! Hell Gill, called The Checkers, kept by Jemmy Taylor. O uth G . Also there was a beerhouse at Gill, called The ate

n was Quite moder . It opened by Mr . John Dickinson .

of a The name the farm , which was The G te, suggested the

Sign . Under the Sign were the words

s a an s and i s Thi g te h g well h nder none ,

R f s and a and a on e re h p y tr vel . There are the following Latin words over a loft outer door at O uth Gill (the property of Captain Grimshaw) which has

m on s - om of a u l o s . T h e a ms s a of the A r un dels A c ig n p b ic h u e r , I under t nd, , wh o the ﬁ s to oss ss th e s of s i o e w s were r t p e exclu ive right ell ng f r ig n ines. Thi was in th e of d a d IV reign E w r .

N 6 6 MALLERSTA G FOREST.

t s for 21 s at Mar inma and Whitsuntide , to continue year , h 1 16 f l 6 t 7 . o expiring May, The following is a copy the deed

iVe whose names are hereto subscribed customary

l a h honb e . f (t o o s . tenants to t e Rt . . Thos E rl Thanet I land at A isg ar th alias Ai sgill within the forest or dale of Maller

r s stang parish of the manor o lord hip of Ky . Stephen in the

of estmld of our G od county W . Having in the year Lord one thousand six hundred and ninety four improved , inclosed , or walled in parcell of the common or waste ground at Hell gill woad near Hell gill br idge called A isg ar th alias Aisgill

!f or the a pasture within the said orest dale, and made same

or s for s a pasture gras ing cattle without the privity, licen e , or consent of the above said Earl whereby we are tre spassers to the said Earl and have made ourselves subject to actions at law for the same .

We do therefore hereby submit ourselves to the above said

' s ther eoﬁ Earl and become farmers and les ors , and do hereby

s to jointly and severally covenant, promi e and agree , and

r his s write the above said Earl to pay unto the said Ea l heir , executors and assigns the clear yearly rent of four pounds of

of n the of the lawfull money Engla d at feast St . Martin

of Bishop in winter, and the feast Pentecost yearly by equal portions for the same the ﬁrst payment thereof to commence

s s t at Martinmas next . In witne s whereof we have hereto e our hands the sixteenth day of May in the seventh year of the reign of our Sovereign Lord William the third by the

of G od of a grace King England, Scotland, Fr nce , and Ire

— f of land Defender o the faith etc . and in the year our Lord

169 5 . MALLERSTANG FOREST . 6 7

Bousﬁeld Signed and delivered on Henry .

senr . stamped parchment by John Shaw,

Bousﬁeld . Henry , Henry Henry Whitﬁeld i w Wh t s n. Sha , senior, Henry Robert Atkin o

ﬁeld , Robert Atkinson , Agnes Shaw on Agnes Shaw for her son behalf o f John

son John, Richard Moreland for Shaw her ,

Ellen Shaw, and Wm . Whit an infant . ﬁeld in the presence of us Richard Moreland l

on Thomas Carleton . behalf of w . r Richard Waller Ellen Sha his :} I fo R , Binﬁosk m . Willia sister, being I ! Thomas Longfellow . lame . Another submission of the tenants on the same dateZand

“ under similar circumstances, owing to the taking: in of

Hanging Lunds, was “ Signed and delivered on Willyam Whitfield . stamped parchment by T “hitfield senr . Thomas , , VVbitfield William , Thomas his mark

senr . Whitfield, , Thomas W Thomas Whitfield , jun . , Whitfield , junr. , illiam his mark T m W . Kirkbride, and Kirk William Kirkbride, his bride for his son Thomas, mark in the presence of a s William Kirkbride on Thomas Carleton . the behalfof Thomas Richard Waller. son Kirkbride, his , Binfio k William s . his mark f w Thomas Long ello . J

T h e name Long fell ow is by no m ean s com m on and its coincidence with the am f th m a m o e a oe s r e o m the R e v . . n e g re t A eric n p t t uck . Thr ug h y friend, J h a o a of a nm o a h a th e o o ow was in the W rt n , vic r St i re , I le rn t t when p et L ng fell a s a ar s a o h e sa in th e ss m oom h a he L ke Di trict few ye g , id A e bly R , Penrit , th t w as 8 um a m an in two se s s i. e. m a in s f C berl nd n e , Cu berl nd th e Unite d Sta te o m a and ha his ami o i a a m om m a in n a A eric , t t f ly rig n lly c e fr Cu berl nd E g l nd. MALLERSTANG FO REST .

Occasionally there were boundary riding dispute s by the s of s f ff repre entatives other manors . The e rontier di erences

out of ff of a m or tion of arose a di erence cl i in some p , the

a f boundary. At the bound ry riding, there ore, a representa

of of s tive the lord the adjoining manor, in con equence of a notice received from the agent of the other lord of the

manor, appeared upon the scene at the appointed time, and uttered a decided protest when the boundary of the lord of

‘ the manor whom he represented was invaded and claimed by

lor d of the neighbouring lord . Meanwhile , the the adjoining

or s manor, his agent, went over the di puted portion and

u his boundar incl ded it in v. At such points the protests

of were looked for. The present steward Ravenstonedale , Mr.

f - s f Anthony Metcal e Gib on , once told me that our generation s of a f f a Anthony Metc l es, beginning with his great grand ther, had s one of been tewards, and had gone down to the di sputed points of the Ravenstonedale boundary at C autley at

ff s to s di erent time make a prote t, that the claim may not be

1 10 w s of or s . ignored lo t In 7 , hen the repre entatives the

of f of Right Honourable Thomas, Earl Thanet, met the o ﬁcers

a r of a Lord Wh rton , who were riding the bounda y Sw ledale , “ a we re d that they were correct, save that in carrying their ﬂag from the sa id High Seat to ye grey stone in Careless

’ Bank the said Ear l Wharton s officers surrounded about ﬁfty

’ acres of the said Earl of T hanet s waist ground belonging to

or d of a s f s a s his manor ale M ller tang a ore aid wee believe .

’ of T hanet s s And the said Mr. Carleton [Earl teward] then ’ told the said Earl of Wharton s officers that in so carrying t ﬂa s heir gg they carried it wrong, and that the everal bounder marks above was the true known ancient bounder

’ mark s dev iding the said Earl s said m anner s and dales and

’ d s to W e ired see the said Earl harton s bounder roll , but they w MALLERSTANG Po er . 6 9

. as did not produce or show any ; only the said M. E Smal s s howed a paper, in which some of the said bounder mark were named .

From the foregoing it would appear that the protests were not o f s a rs the merely matter cour e aff i , but that y were very “ s d s c d of di tinctive and decide . I have al o a re or a stop

’ m oﬁic er s ade to Mr. Lowther s riding their pretended bounder

’ s T hanet s m anner s of Raven tonedale , adjoining to the Earl of 19 u 1 30 7 . of Kirkby Stephen and Mallerstang, th Aug st,

was n s t el dale The boundary ridde by Mr . Thoma p and

W s s s for Mr. James at on, steward and agent Robert Lowther,

E s r e s . q . They were Oppo ed by Mr Richard Strother, steward to the Earl Of Thanet.

“ And the said Richard Strother then told the said Mr.

a a Whelpd le, and the comp ny along with him , that the said Earl O f T hanets bounder marks for the manner of Kirkby

r of s s Stephen went along from the said hu rock tone , at the out o f A sh a edge Fell , down through t rn wett mire to

wet to tarn hole , thence the highway leading from Kirkby

Stephen to Sedbergh , thence along on that highway to

S c andall S taner sk ew d bridge , otherwise bri ge , thence up

S c andall f beck to the head thereo , up between the coal

i l o shafts by the side of M dd et ng to where Ky . Stephen

s bounder meets with Mallerstang, thence ea tward to Wild

s un bore fell pike, joining to Maller tang bo der all the way, thence by the edge of Wildbore fell next Ravenstonedale to

o f o n S c andall as the hurrock stones head , thence heaven

s s water deal to bland stone , and thence to a hurrock of stone

a on Galloway Gates ; and then told the s id Mr. Whelpdale , and a other company long with him, that they ought to ride

s by the bounder marks above mentioned , and di charged 70 MALLERSTANG FOREST .

them from coming within the sa id early bounder mark s and

s s s told them that if they did they would be tre pas er . “ ’ s I have al so a record of a stop made to Mr. Lowther

ffi s of N aitb o cer riding their pretended bounder y , adjoining ’ 1 h f allestan i . 8t of T hanet s e o M . to the Earl mann r g Aug , And the said Richard Strother then read

s over unto the aid Mr. Whelpdale , and other company there

’ s so of a T hanet s or pre ent, much the said E rl Of manor

’ s s Lordship of Mallerstang from the aid Mr . Lowther manor

i s iz — or s of N a tb as v . Lord hip y follow , Beginning at Water

a s a r S o k eld s s g te c r, thence th ough p , otherwi e Killing clo e,

to r r s was a place whe e a c ab tree formerly tood, and marked

ff d r fa to r by Henry Lord Cli or , g eat grand ther Geo ge Earl

' of a s near whic h Cumberland, his bounder, place, in the

our 16 5 1 s s year Of Lord , when the e bounder were rid

for H nble s o f o . the Right Anne , late Countes Dowager

s ash as Pembroke , tood an tree , which upon that occ ion

was as marked A . P . a bounder mark, Thence through Ashbank (which is also part of S op k eld) where an

h s f was u w ou e ormerly built, thro gh hich house the

to f of N a it ill a s to bounder went, thence the oot g by R ven car

Kitc hin ill f u K itc hin ill to T ailbr i g oot, thence p g g g Sike ,

T a ilbr i s to r ow of s thence up gg ike the cove , thence to the

r ss a s gingling cove, thence th ough Lampes mo to grey tone

- s of f in Careless B ank on the north ea t the ell end . And the s hel dale said Richard Strother then told the aid Mr . W p that they ought to ride the bounder o f Nateby by these

s s s bounder mark . But the aid Mr. Whelpdale told the aid Richard Strother th at the bounder mark s of their bounder

O f N aitb as f and t y were ollows, that they would ride hat wa w . a a a to y , viz From W terg te Sc rr up the river Eden Ble

ss to A ill feet so A ill s gra , thence along Eden g Sike , up g ike to e F O R s r 7 1 m a sseu s s .

s to l Stoney gate that ri es on the fel s end , then over the

s . s height of ﬁell end down in a direct line to G rey tone .

And the said Mr . Whelpdale said they claimed all the

r royalties within their said p etended bounder for Mr.

one Lowt her ; but one Mathew Robinson of the said Mr .

’ Lowther s tenants of N aitby said that when he rode the

’ said bounder of N aitby with the late Lord Wharton s ofﬁcers they did not then claim the royalties O f a place they included

n withi their pretended bounder called the Bells, but only a right of common and turbary . Notwithstanding which the W said Mr. helpdale and those along with him rode their

of N aitb N aitb bounder y , by the pretended bounders of y in the manner they did have included above three hundred ’ — acres of the said Earl s liberties common or wast ground

e h of a b longing to the said manor or lords ip M llerstang, all which we shall be ready to prove when thereunto required .

u A nn i s our e Dn . Witne s hands this eighteenth day of Aug st, 3 17 0.

Tenants of Joseph Shaw . Richard Strother,

l . . Ma lerstang . Thomas Ward Thos Busey,

s Chr . Harri on,

s Joseph Thomp on ,

Thos . Yeatts,

John Barnett,

s Charle Hastwell ,

s n Miles Hutchin o ,

05 J . Thornton ,

The most recent dispute gre w out of the construction O f

i In 1869 the M dland Railway . the year , the Midland

a w O f R il ay Company, pursuant to an Act Parliament, gave notice to the landowners of Mallerstang that they would 7 2 MALLERSTANG FOREST . t of a s of s of in ake possession sever l plot land , ome it being

A of at dispute . meeting was held the Commoners Kirkby

8 0 in 11th J 1 7 . s Stephen , anuary, The ﬁrst point the di pute

of s was the extent Birket, and the econd the rights over it .

s During the trial the former claim was relinqui hed . The nature of the claim on the part of Lord Lonsdale was

15 9 0 the of that a deed was executed in , whereby Earl Cumberland granted to his predecessor in estate [Lord Wharton and his tenants] the exc lusive right of pasturage

w of a s a the lando ners M ller t ng contending,on the other hand , that the landholders of Wharton had a right with them to

a not s the herb ge , but an exclu ive right, and it was decided

in their favour.

O f of s The value the common land Mallerstang, di puted

s a and undi puted, was p id over to the Committee appointed

M s n s s s by the Commoners of aller ta g . The que tion Of co t

has not yet been ﬁnally settled . The boundary ridings are Obse r ved at varying interval s of

of time, not Often exceeding that a generation . The circum stances of these ridings are often those of excitement to the

of the u n male portion the community, conspicuous ﬁg re bei g

a of at such times the be rer the ﬂag, accompanied by a

r of of n ot of rep esentative the lord the manor, if the lord the

f of in s . manor himsel , and many the leading men the pari h The last boundary riding o f Mallerstang took place on the

6 s 12th of 18 5 . day July, , when Mr Parkin Blade , and others,

s s n carried the colour . I under tand that Miss Maria Atkinso ,

of s Dale foot, rode hor eback with the party, being the ﬁrst lady that had accompanied a boundary riding party since 165 1 Lady Anne of Pembroke , in the year , when tradition

n a out . . says she ot only rode the bound ry, but A P in an

ash tree which was a boundary mark .

7 4 MALLERSTANG FOREST .

s 9 . Thence through Lamp Moss to a grey stone in C areless

s of s Bank , on the north ea t Fell End .

10. of S eav m an in Ul ill Thence to the lower end y g head.

1 1. of Thence to the north end High seat . 12 . Thence as Heaven water deals to the south end O f

High seat . 13 . S leddle r Thence over Little head to G egory Chapel .

14 f s . Thence along Gregory Band to a hurrock o stone at

Langill Head . 15 . f u Thence to the height o H gh Seat Morville.

16 — a o a of . Thence as Heaven w ter deals t the Sk ith

S kaite ar o to s. From thence the bound y used to g Capel

S k ke a to Witho w Mey y , thence down C pel May Syke Syke, and thence to White Birk but di sputes h aving ari sen touching the boundaries between the Ear l of Thanet and the township and manor of High Abbotside and the town ship Of Lower Abbotside and manor of Dale Grange otherwi se Lower Abbotside in the pari sh o f A isg ar th in the county of York or one of them,the Commissioners appointed under the Act o f Par li ament O f the fifth year of the reign of His late Majesty King George the Fourth for inclosing lands within the said m anors did by their a ward d ated the fifteenth day O f September 1827 fix and determ ine the s ame as follows

The following is a full record of the deci sion of C om

ss s f r s 1840 1865 mi ioner re er ed to in Boundary Riding , and ,

N o 6 at . 1 s Abbotside Common . Whereas an act O f Parliament was made and passed in the ﬁfth year of the reign o f his p r e sent Maje sty King — ‘ George the Fourth intituled A n act for inclosing lands in the Township and manor Of High Abbotside a nd in the O 5 MALLERSTANG F REST. 7

w of a to nship Lower Abbotside and manor Of D le Grange , otherwise Lower Abbotside in the parish of A isg ar th in the f ’ county o York . And whereas considerable doubts have arisen and existed touching and concern ing the boundary between the said manors of one of them and the manor of

of Mallerstang in the parish of Kirkby Stephen in the c c .

Westmorland . “ N ow we Jeremiah Coulton and Thomas Bradley the Commissioners named and appointed in and by the said act

of our s having given due notice intention to a certain , set

s out, ﬁx and determine, the said boundary to the everal persons interested therein in the manner required by law and n f havi g met pursuant to such notice at the house o Mr . Robert Brunskill the Bull Inn at Shaw Parrock in Lunds in the pari sh of A isg ar th aforesaid on Monday the twenty

of b seventh day August last, and on several su sequent days and times by vi r tue of several adjournments of o ur said

s s meeting, and having heard the everal partie interested

or or t therein their agents solici ors , and having examined various witnesses upon oath touching and concerning the said

s as boundary , and having viewed and in pected the same l claimed by the Lords of the said manors respective y, and the s s owner of land and tenements within the same, have ascertained and set out, and do ﬁx and determine the same to l and commence and begin at a place ca led White Birks, to of G a nd proceed from thence direct to the water Hell ill, so up the said water to the ﬁrst sike (on the east side

s t thereof) above Lamb Fold , and from hence in a direct line as the same is no w staked o ut to the Skarth of Skaiths and from thence in a direct line as the same is staked out to the

of M a ker of boundary of the manor in the parish Grinton, in the said county of York which said boundary is parti 7 6 MALLERSTANG FOREST . c ular ly described and delineated in the map or plan thereof hereunto annexed . “ Dated the ﬁfteenth day of Septe mber one thousand w eight hundred and t enty seven . U O JERE . CO LT N .

THOMAS BRADLE Y .

a k i 17 . From the said Sk ith of S a tes in a direct line to the

ﬁrst Syke (on the east side thereof) a bove Lamb Folds .

s 18. Thence down Hell Gill water to the White Birk where the di spute ended .

19 s . Thence up Stubbing Rigg to Middle Gill , otherwi e l Smithy Gil Howe .

20 to of . Thence a hurrock of stones at the east end

Swarth Fell, called Swarth F ell pike.

21 to of s G . . Thence a hurrock stone in Galloway ates

22 as s Blandston . . Thence Heaven water deal to

of s n S andall . 23. Thence to a hurrock stone o c Head 2 on . 4 . Thence to the pike Wildbore Fell

25 of A r ke . . Thence to the top Mickle

6 t M er tt G o e o . 2 . Thence along Stoney ate p

2 r on . 7 . Thence to the g eat cove Greenlaw Head

l . 28. Thence to the head of Fothergil Beck

2 . 9 . Thence down Fothergill Beck to Eden Water

a G 30. Thence up E den Water to W ter ate Scar This boundary was ridden and perambulated in the presence O f us .

Signed

H elis s . E dwd. e , junr John Dickin on

Georg e Blades. Alex . Hogg .

\Vm . s . . S . Fulton Tho . Mitchell

a . a . G . H . B iley M rk Ellwood

s . a f . W. Wil on John Metc l e

E dwd . s . ms a . J . Gri h w For yth MALLERSTANG FO REST .

o M edealfc . n a n . R bert Joh Morl nd, ju r

t. F a s a a ns n. John H . S c ot r nce M ri Atki o se a James Alla n. Jo p h B rker Hind. m es his ma r a m i s n. a a . Thos. Atk n o J ! rk G h

]. a inson. . Ro bt. Atk Mich Morl nd

W i a s . . m. R ch rd on Anthony Allen so i ia m his ma s John Richa rd n. W ll ! rk Moun ey .

a o . Joseph Metc alfe. John D lt n har his ma James Ellwood . Ric d ! rk Dent. W m. i E llinso n F therg ll. Joseph . o m a s ri . Matthew his ! ma rk Metc alfe . J e W g ht

Stephen Atkinson.

W A . m. llen FLAG BEARE RS . a so John Rich rd n . a a es P rkin Bl d . Ma tthew Metc alfe . - Georg e Curr ah. John his ! mark Atkinson. John Richardso n . m a Willia H rper. s a Jo eph P rker Hind . Parkin Bla des.

W . m Balden.

i a s . o a s . John R ch rd on , junr J hn Rich rd on W a M uc kelt oma . m . s . M tthew , ye n Wil on

a M c tc alfe M tthew .

U R Y MALLERSTANG BO NDA . Notice is hereby given that the bo undary of the Manor o r Lo rd ship of Mallerstang in the County O f “Westmorland will be ridden and pera mbulated by the Agents and Tenants

S ir a of or of Richard Tufton B ronet, Lord the said manor, Lordship on Wednesday the twelfth day of July next and that they will commence the said riding and perambulation

’ at a place called Watergate Scarr by nine o c lock in the forenoon of the said day when and where all Lords of the several adjoining m anors or Lordships and all other persons concerned may attend if they think proper. w Given under my hand this t enty ﬁrst day of June 1865 . JO HN HE E L IS

of s Steward the said manor or Lord hip .

Copies of the above notice were inserted in the Kenda l 78 O MALLERSTANG F REST.

M erc ur y of the twenty fourth Of June and the ﬁrst and i e ghth Of July 1865 and in the C umber la nd a nd Westmor e la nd A dver tiser Of the twenty seventh O f June and the fourth 5 day Of July 186 .

I hereby certify that a true copy of the above notice wa s afﬁxed by me on the door O f the pari sh Church Of Kirkby Stephen and on the door Of the chapel Of Mallerstang the

s 1865 twenty eventh day Of June . K PAR IN BLADES .

O U Y MALLERSTANG B NDAR . I do hereby give you notice that the boundary Of the Manor or Lordshi p Of Mallerstang in the County of West m orland will be ridden and perambulated by the Agents and

s f of Tenant Of Sir Richard Tu ton Baronet, Lord the said

or s on s 12 O f Manor Lord hip Wedne day the th day July next, and that they will commence the said riding and p er ambu lation at a place called Watergate Scarr by nine O ’clock in

f O f w the orenoon the said day, hen and where you may attend

if you think proper.

s - ﬁr st of 1865 Given under my hand thi twenty day June . JOHN HE E L IS

of s or Steward the aid manor Lordship .

Copies of the above notice were delivered as follows : T O the Reverend John Winn one of the Lords O f the manor of

E s r e G r iesdale and to Henry Thompson q . Lord Of the manor Of Uldale on the seventh day Of July 1865 and to Thomas

r of Cleasby and Matthew Thompson E sq es. Lords the manor

E s r e of of White Birch and to Matthew Thompson q . another l th the Lords O f the manor Of G r iseda e on the ten day . Of 1865 July . PARKI N BLADES

r s Bailiff Of the said Manor o Lord hip . L S ’ ‘ A M A L E R I N G FO REST . 7 9

The perambulation commenced at about nine O ’clock in m u Al the orning, and ended at about fo r in the afternoon . l dined in the Open air at Watergate Bottom , and the com pany partook O f as much food and drink a s they liked at

s O f s the expen e Of the lord the manor. Such occa ions are

u s a i suc h p rpo ely char cterised by a great deal Of joll ty, as

s a nd a &e. w wre tling r cing, , that they may be ell remembered

f O f by the young olks the party .

The river will next claim our attention . The name given

was Ituna . Its ou to it by the Romans present name , as y know full well , is Eden. The derivation Of the word Eden

n is a matter Of some uncertai ty . According to one deriva

a i e tion , it means , as a compound , water and d le, . . , water of

s — ea den the dale or valleys , water ; and , a deep wooded valley

A - 2 don ( nglo Saxon) ; ( ) according to others , (Celtic) , water “ fi 3 l s or river, and an unexplained pre x ; ( ) Phi lip ( Rivers ” s 19 9 and Mountains of York hire , page ) adopts the derivation

' E d—da z n (Celtic) , the gliding stream . In this inquiry, u however, we m st bear in mind that we are analysing the word Eden rather than ascertaining the cause why your

d “ river was called by that name . And in stu ying this ques tion the Obvious inquiry forces itself upon the mind whether

has s f it not a di tinct relation to the Eden Of the Bible, O which the previous etymology holds good, and Of which we read And a river went out O f Eden to water the garden

and from thence it was parted and became into four heads .

a When , therefore , your rude f thers gave the name Eden to the river which includes also the valley ; whether they

’ were Ancient Britons (for the light O f God s truth was here f be ore the Saxons came) , or whether they were Saxons, my Opinion is that they were acquainted with the Eden of

O f Scripture , and that, struck with the beauty the valley, 80 MALLERSTANG FOREST .

w o u o they called it Eden ; and, ithout ﬂattering y r those

not s sa living lower down the dale , I do he itate to y that the

is s s s s vale Of the Eden , in the ummer ea on, paradi aical in its

. . . lt o f in on beauty The Rev J Wha on, Vicar Stainmore, e Of the notes which he has kindly furnished me with on local “ s : s s f name , says The word Eden contain a root igni ying

f of water, and there are our streams this name in the ” e s Blac kf island . The Eden takes its rise in Mall r tang at ell f ss o . a o mo , close to the boundary Yorkshire Four years g I

e . s trac d it to its source, in company with Mr Atkin on

- s r Metcalfe Gib on . We commenced from Hell Gill B idge, and a quait er O f a mile above it struck down into the bed of

a or the stre m , and continued in it more less until we came

two s s on e to a point where tream meet. We followed the

s n on the left hand until it was lo t amo g runnels in the ling.

O f r is s The source the other b anch , I under tand, similar. “ ” is s Hence the source Of the river called Eden Spring .

f a s s how On what a lo ty height it t ke its ri e , and wild and “ r s of s g and Camden ays , in speaking thi very spot Such a dreary waste and horrid silent wildem ess that certain

- l u s s . riv let that creep here are called Hell beck , rivers Of he l

n s a s O f s I thi p rt the goats, deer, and tags extraordinary ize ” with branching horns ﬁnd a secure retreat . On that same range two other rivers ri se on the other side Of the water

a shed . They are the Ure and the Sw le . The Eden runs north and falls into the Solway Firth . The other two proceed in an easterly direction a nd find their way to the

German Ocean . The principal small afﬂ uents Of the Eden in Mallerstang

- are rivulets in Stone close Gill, Aisgill, Deep Gill, and Thrang — In 1850 . Beck . the year , Mr William Mounsey relatives

O f whom still re side at Carlisle and are re spected there

MALLERSTANG FO REST .

a We have country from which we came and our father is there . [I do not know the source O f this quotation ]

Having commenced his j ourney at the mouth a nd ﬁnished it at the so a m s a a m f his v ow to urce, Willi Moun ey, w ndering her it ulﬁlled the Geniu s and nymphs O f the Eden on the 15th of March in the year of Christ

It is not an uncommon thing to ﬁnd an urn or an obelisk at the source Of important rivers ; and we can forgive an enthusiast for erecting a memorial stone at the source O f the i s h a r ver be ide which e was brought up . For both the origin l

am d s and the translation I indebte to the Rev . W . Thomp on , of s his Sedbergh . Mr. Thomp on, in communication to me , “ adds I have done the best I can in translating the pre

I ' O u ht n ceding ; but g to say that, ever having seen the s f the s tone mysel , I cannot vouch for ab olute accuracy Of

as s in the transcription . It w done by a former choolmaster

s s S i Mallerstang. He al o add I must have been about x or seven year s old when William Moun sey appeared on the " s s cene in Maller tang. I distinctly remember my admira

of so tion his ﬁne ﬂowing beard which , I may add, was

s unusual in those day , that it secured for him the nickname “ ” Jew h amongst the people Of the , by whic name he is

in s da nl for known the dale to thi y . It o y remains me to

s tr ansla expres a regret that Mr . Mounsey failed to have a tion Of the Greek and Latin inscription cut on one Side of

th e O f for the stone, as omission this led to its destruction, during the construction Of the Midland Railway through

s s one a this dale, some navvie were pending Sunday fter

r noon near the sou ce Of the river discovering the stone, they endeavoured to read it failing in this, and ﬁnding that it was locked up in languages which few comparatively could read, they in a ﬁt Of vexation broke it into three pieces . If MALLER STANG FO REST . 83

a O f d s I , an inhabit nt Ravenstone ale , may sugge t on such a

a the insc r i subject, it is, th t you restore the stone with p tion , and the translation added thereto .

of s Proceeding from the source the Eden, I mu t ﬁrst call — your attention to the name Of its infant bed Hell Gill . The general impression is that it was called Hell Gill because it

s d is 60 i a deep riven chasm. At the bri ge its depth feet

- 10 . t Of perpendicular rock, its width feet Benea h Hell Gill

is o the bridge there a l wer one , which was ﬁrst built , and “ ’ ” i is the th s called the devil s bridge , the tradition being that d l evi built it, that he wore a leathern apron at the time, and that whilst carrying the last apronful of stones its string broke N O doubt the name O f the bridge grew out of the name O f

m s s for the gill , a name not uncom on in thi di trict a concealed

’ place ; and the story O f the devil s building it was an inven tion Of the fancy or superstition Of the people . From a com m unic ation O f I had from Mr. Hutchinson , Kirkby Stephen ,

who O f and is the owner Hell Gill farm , I learn that in the ld O G . deeds it is called Hale Gill , and not Hell ill Still, if I

on is s may give an Opinion th ubject, it is, that the Old name u for it is Hell Gill, owing to its being a concealed and awf l

mid- chasm, dark at day, and a most romantic cradle from which the infant river emerges on its way through the dale .

’ One particular Spot near the bridge is called Dick Tur pin s leap, though there is no reliable tradition that he was ever

h s a o t ere . About twenty year g , James Blades , a shepherd ,

dis who was in quest of sheep, fell into the gill . He was

i se covered Shortly afterwards, bruised and n nsible eventually,

i . however, he qu te recovered s l I Should thi book fal into the hands of a tourist, would

G ll s say, visit Hell i by all mean , and Eden Springs if you are 84 A E M LL RSTANG FOREST .

the f a good pedestrian, and return to Outhgill , village O

— now s Mallerstang, by the Old road covered over with gras and y ou will be charmed with the wall of rock on either

s l hand , and e pecially Wild Boar Fel , and the view Of the

out s valley before you lengthening toward Kirkby Stephen .

Here I should give the dimensions Of the dale, for the

s to particular Of which I am indebted Canon Simpson .

the of r He says In the Tithe Award, contents the Pa ish

— - Of Mallerst ang are given about 1836 7

a s a — a a 3 a s 2 s 34 s M ller t ng Ar ble l nd cre , rood , perche .

a w 851 a s 1 m od 19 s. Me do cre , , perche

as 1053 a s 5 s. P ture cre , perche

a s Common 3000 cre .

a and i 36 a s 2 s 24 s R d R ver cre , r d , perche . o d oo

a 49 44 a es 2 s 24 s Tot l cr , rood , perche .

Of late the land has been much improved by draining, and now there is no ar able land 5 and it appear s from the A e Tithe ward that th re never has been much, as there is no

' rectorial or corn tithe award ; it is all either meadow or

as p ture .

In the foregoing the Common is estimated at acres ,

not . which must have been a guess, as it had been measured The following are the various particulars Of the dimensions

Of the common , river, public roads , and land planted, as g iven in the Ordnance map, and in the schedule thereto “ ” “ ” “ ” O on headed N . plan , Area in acres, and ! Remarks

E S N G MALL R TA .

N O . on a . m a s Pl n Re rk . 1 . Moor

2 a . Public ro d

3. Ri 850. ver, M A L L E R S T A N G FO RE ST. 85

on a . ema s . N O . Pl n R rk 4 as . W te

5 .

14 a a . Pl nt tion

26 .

5 3.

56 . 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

72.

5A l a 8 . Pub ic ro d

m and no w c mm 86 . as Ste . a P ture, (encro ch ent, o on or waste ag ain) 2

a 9 6 . Public ro d

4 as 10 . C tle ruin

127.

14 O a t n C stleth aite 2. ccup io road ( a w )

1 a 9 1. Public ro d 9 4 1 .

19 8.

208.

215 .

247 .

263 &c . . River, 2 27 . Wood

5 a a 37 . Pl nt tion

431. 850. Wood, 43 2.

436 . 3 4 R c . 8. & iver,

4 40 C O s s s s s s s s & s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s . Wood, s s s s s s s s s s s s s

468.

4 8 a a 7 . Pl nt tion 4 88.

49 3.

9 s of 4 5 . Moor (we t Eden)

4 6 a 9 . Public ro d

as of 49 8. Moor (e t Eden)

9 i ad . 4 9 . Publ c ro

502. 86 MALLERSTANG FOREST.

SUMMARY . Acres.

Actually moor

(occupation road)

a of omm s of Tot l C on, exclu ive 6355 . 160 public roads and river

I s a s of i nclo ed l nd , exclu ive publ c 19 65 383 roads and river

a s v iz . Public ro d ,

Total of public roads 272 14

3. River

5 a a a of e . Pr ctic lly p rt riv r

263.

438.

Total according to O rdn ance Survey , s the There is a andstone quarry in dale, Situated at

r hf ll It is S wa t e . . not much worked at present, but it has furnished a great deal Of stone for the rooﬁng Of houses in

fe this and the adjoining parish of Ravenstonedale . A w years

i on r ago, a coal m ne, the common, eached by a road from

h s Out gill , was worked, and the coal was u ed by the inhabit

O f m ants this dale ; but it never yielded much, and re ained R MALLERSTANG FO EST . 87

s for some tim e unused . Now I under tand that it is being worked again .

is s There a lead mine at the Bell , at the foot Of the dale ,

as O f that was worked by the Pe es, Darlington , at ﬁrst without succ ess whereupon the company Offered a reward to any O f

s or d and the men who might di cover a vein pocket Of lea , the ’ “ is : . following the late Mr . G . Blades account Of the result Jno Scott O f Southwaite got up early one morning with the hope and determination to discover a pocket in a particular part

O f f the sha t where he expected to ﬁnd it. He attacked the

s spot in que tion with his pick , and soon found to his satis faction that he had discovered a pocket . Having convinced himself Of his success , he sat down and smoked his pipe ; happy no doubt as a king . The di scovery was made known u to the Peases . They worked it very successf lly. The lead

n u s of was fou d in a very p re tate, and some the lumps were

S O or large that it took two three men to turn them over, and when they were split open they shone like silver. One piece was sent to Appleby Castle as a specimen of what the mine produced . The general Opinion is that the Pease C O . for ” s now many year worked with much proﬁt this disused mine .

s a Mine of copper and tin have lso been worked here , the

or the former at Aisgill moor, where there are, were lately, “ ” remains Of a smelt mill. The tin mine was worked in

of of Anger holme woad, by persons the name Shaw. But neither the copper nor tin mines seem to have been worked

a with any proﬁt, most probably owing to the cost Of carri ge

f s s and the want Of coal . The re use tones from the tin mine , being Of a whitish substance , were sold for stoning hearth

- stones, by a well known character in his day, and to whom

al h s f n the I sh l ave occa ion to re er again later on , know by “ ” s name of Joss Dick or Mau ton Dick . 88 MALLERSTANG FOREST .

But ' it is quite time that I called your attention to the — people those that are still remembered for their character — or social position and al so to the manners and cus toms Of the

s a a people generally, and the ﬁr t and most rem rk ble per

a f th ~ m ili i sona e is . O e t a g Captain Atkinson He was c ptain ,

was a O f s a and man considerable oci l inﬂuence . He owned,

l s s— a N ew I am told , the fol owing e tate D le Foot , Hall , Mill

Becks , Winton (occupation Of George Winter) , and Wharton . He seems to have been a z ealous support er of the rule O f

of f t Oliver Cromwell , and as evidence it, we are in ormed tha

a a h when C pt in Atkinson , a native Of Winton (and anged with two s 1 16 64 for other , April , , being concerned in Kaber plot) ,

se f s attempted to choo a roundhead mayor by orce Of arm ,

s s s the town (Appleby) re i ted, and cho e a moderate man ;

s s and though .thi man , Captain Atkin on , induced the Protector to s n ew impo e a charter upon them , yet they kept their Old ” one to the last. At the Restoration Captain Atkinson adhered to the laws which the nation generally had set

of s aside ; and gathering a band follower together, rose in

s s a rebellion again t the con tituted uthority at Kaber Rigg. He and his men seem to have Offered very small re sist ance

was and s ere he taken prisoner, sub equently tried by a s s In s h pecial commi sion as a traitor. thi trial it is said t at

Lady Pembroke was deeply interested, and had set her mind n a of o his execution . He was h nged within the grounds 1 64 f 6 . Appleby Castle , in the year The ollowing remark

G was able tradition was told me by Mr . . Blades, and

’ conﬁrm ed by some O f Captain Atkinson s descendants

’ O n of f the morning the execution, a king s O ﬁcer arrived at

was Stainmore, and asked at the inn whether there any ul parti c ar news . Whereupon they informed him that Captain

had t . Atkinson been executed hat morning Why, he

9 0 MALLERSTANG FOREST .

a Court Road, I learn th t it is current at the Guildhall that he went to London with the proverbial halfc r own only in his

is on his s pocket ; and i t believed that when , ﬁr t arrival , he l was walking down Ludgate Hi l , he asked some one at the door of the house of which he after wards became sole pro

r ietor for a a p , a situ tion, he was at once eng ged as a porter.

so Evidently he attended well to his humble duties, and by

was to . doing advanced something better The late Mr. Bla-des told me that he was for some time a commercial

of the h s s traveller ou e , and repre ented them not only in

on as England but the Continent well, where he solicited or ders for cut and ornamental gl ass of the most sumptuous

s de cription. The next step in his advancement was his

’ his s d marriage with employer only aughter and child .

to he s s f Owing this largely, succeeded to the bu ine s and rom the position he afterwards came to occupy in the City of

s . London , he mu t have been greatly respected there . Mr G . Blades ha d the impre ssion that he became Lord Mayor of

o of a f . London, but thr ugh the c re ul investigation Mr Milner, who l s fa a is himself re ated to the ame mily, I learn th t he became one of the Sheriffs of London and Middlesex . He wa s a liberal benefa ctor of the City Guild to which he — ’ — belonged The Glass sellers Company and he is said to h m own f ave ade, at his cost, the Opening rom Fleet Street ’ w ! s a . to St . Bride Church , which brought the l tter into vie

! Wm i th e a o h a e v ed h o h th e n d ess of M r . . S nce writing b ve I ve rec i , t r ug ki n wm a one of th e a d s th w n m r T . T . o e o o o e o M . G . Milner, f ll ing t fr Pl n , churchw r en

' t s M r ad s d th e a sh of S t. a of S t. de s sa s e p re ent Bri . He y He [ . Bl ] entere p ri

d in 1779 wa s o s a e in 1787 an d ar d in 1812. e d a Bri e , C n t bl , Churchw en He er cte tablet in th e vestibule of th e church as an affectionate tribute to th e m em ory of hi s A s a ds th e a oa to th e c hur c h om e three brothers. reg r ppr ch fr Fle t Street, is a h s h e m o m an d a the there n eng r aving in t e vestry howing t i pr ve ent, be ring he am m h M r . ade s s as an d s a n a t n es of 21 g entle en wit Bl a tre urer, t ti g th t im provem ent was m ade by public subscription at a cost of It w ould a w f s o as M r . p p ear th at th e alteration as e fected by a p ublic sub cripti n , but

ades w as e h e was m os e a i e a o o to th a o . Bl as th e tre ur r, t lik ly l b r l c ntribut r t w rk r MALLE RSTANG oa xsr . 9 1

You may be intereste d to know that the office of Sheri ffs of

of i of M iddlesex the City London and Sher ff , is held jointly by two persons who are nominate d by the Lord Mayor and electe d by the Livery of the City . The Livery are the freemen of the City who have taken upon them the livery and clothing

of of G s and become members one the City uilds , which po ition l a so gives a vote for members of Parliament for the City.

f s for one The sheri f are elected year. They do not always

or fﬁ become seek to become Lord Mayors, their o ce being

of quite independent, although much associated with that the Lord Mayor. On the other hand , the Lord Mayor, who is elected from amongst the Aldermen , must have been

Sheriff before he can become Lord M ayor . The Office of Sheriff is analogous with that of the High

f of ffs of Sheri f a County ; but the Sheri London , from their connection with the Lord Mayor, have to appear with him

c er emoniaL oc c asions s w upon many , and they hare ith him

’ h f a t e cost o the Lord M yor s banquet and procession . The office of Sheriff is also sometimes held by men of somewhat higher social and commercial position than those

s who now become Lord Mayor . The Lord Mayor, although almost always moderately rich and of respectable position , has

s of never, at any ra te for many year , been one the leading

of s bankers or merchants the City, but generally a prosperou ff tradesman . The Sheri s have occasionally been of higher standing. ffi Mr . Blades held the o ce of Sheriff of London in the

1813 of G year , when another North England man, Mr . eorge

Scholey, of Sandal , in Yorkshire, was Lord Mayor. Mr. G .

to Blades, in his communication me, remarked Mr. Blades

see came down from London to us all , I should think , about sixty years ago . I, with others, dined with him at Hawes . 2 9 MALLERSTANG FOR E ST .

ul s I sho d have known him to be a Blade , for he had a nice

” ’ His red cheek . father s name was Thomas Blades, who

s s s was a tate man in the po session of a farm at We st End .

O f s ou it a uch a career y may be proud, and should act s a

s splendid timulus to the young men of the district . At the same time do not fail to appreciate the industry and manly integrity which one is bound to recognise as features which belong not only to this dale but to this county ; and remember that a ﬁeld receives its colour not from a brilliant

of ﬂower here and there, but from the prevailing hue the

s s m a ﬂowers which grow upon it. In other word , whil t you y

of one who s a of far be proud ro e to a high soci l position, it is more importance th at you should keep manifest the evidence

ou s that you are , as I believe y to be, honest, industriou ,

and true . L EC T UR E IV

A L L E R S T A N G is in no way remarkable for its

a s . arch eological remains , apart from its ca tle Still , there are some fe atures of interest in it in this

s G re pect . In a paper read by Canon reenwell , at Penrith , at the ﬁrst meeting of the Antiquarian and Arch aeological 1866 l Society, , I ﬁnd the fol owing On May 3l st we [Canon Simpson and himself] examined two cairns situated in Mallerstang on a piece of haugh

o . of the land , just ab ve the river Eden The position

s cairns is unu ual , as it is very uncommon to ﬁnd them

- s place d on low lying ground . It has been ixty feet in e diameter. We made a partial xamination , but did not find the interment ; several clippings of flint and numerous pieces of charcoal testified to the sepulchral character of the mound , and Mr . Simpson and I propose to complete the ! f investigation on some future occasion . About fi ty yards

r t was f om his a smaller cairn , ﬁfteen feet diameter, and one

I of a nd . w a half feet high n the centre this, in a hollo , sunk

one in the surface of the ground , and a quarter feet deep ,

wa s the de sit o the bur nt b nes o a. b d p o f o f o y under a ﬂat stone .

‘ on Above them, the north side, were the remains of a small

a o im s m n C n n S pson te ll e that o further discoveries have been ma de. 9 4 MALLERSTANG FO REST.

“ f a urn o the type c lled an incense cup , much decayed .

has n s and It bee three inche high three inches wide , and

n now had h as o e hole , and probably once two, through the

ss of of is f side . This cla urn , the use which very di ﬁcult to f understand , is by no means an un requent accompaniment

of n . two s a bur t body They are usually pierced with hole , t f sometimes at the op , but as o ten near the bottom of the

s s s urn . They al o occur without any hole , and sometime

o s a n with a large number thr ugh the ide . I h ve o e from

Yorkshire which has twenty - seven holes in rows of three

s f running round the urn . The whole ur ace of the urn f is rom Mallerstang, even to the bottom , covered with an

s of s ornamental pattern , made by puncture a mall pointed

s implement . In thi cairn we found no ﬂint . We at the same time opened one of those rectangular

’ s so m of mounds, called giant graves, any which remain in

s of the district, and which look like barrow , though a rather uncommon shape . Several have been examined at various

all of of places, which showed no signs whatever their being

of places burial . They are certainly artiﬁcial , but I can ” as or offer no conjecture to their origin purpose . Canon Simpson is of opinion that they are bracken stack

as u bottoms, they are generally fo nd near a place where that plant seems to have abounded . They are found on the

s a side of Smardale Gill , and in Raven toned le . When

O is examined they have yielded no results . N doubt there great probability in this conjecture ; others incline to the

to opinion that in times remote , so remote perhaps as be,

’ - s properly speaking, pre hi toric, the giants graves, as they

al a have for ages been c led, were burial pl ces . Captain Grimshaw has in his possession an interesting document which furnishes a list of “those persons that is at G E MALLERSTAN FOR ST . 9 5 full age within ye ffore st of M aller stang e which is ly able to ” wle is a a o . G pay ye p It without d te , but C ptain rimsha w is of opinion that it is about 180 years old and I should

is think that he is correct . It uncertain what the object of

was s s the poll tax , pos ibly to raise money toward a national

or w f s subsidy, to ards de raying the expen e of a levy of “ s u is soldier ; for Nicholson and B rn say, It a vulgar mistake that this county paid no subsidies during the

of b r der ser vic e as s existence the o , suppo ing it to be exempted " s from uch payments merely upon that account. The list is as follows

( F irst page . ) “ Widdo w i s and one s a a s £3 3 Atk n on , erv nt, w g e . children Edward ffother gill his wife 2 children at ag e Michaell ffother gill his wife 85 3 children

s K newstu his if 2 Tho . p p w e children Richard Hesle ton Gt his Wife Jefr ey Guy his wife 2 ch

' John ﬂotherg ill his wife 8: 3 children Daniel Whitﬁeld his wife and one m aid ser uant Robert Guy and his wife

Widdow H arrison one child Thomas Whitﬁeld 8r his wife Bar thollom e w \Vharton his wife and his mother Robert Branthwaite Gent his Wife and 2 ser uants one a s , w g e William Shaw his wife John Atkin son his wife

and one maid ser uant wag es 20s.

Henry Shaw and his wife and one mai d ser uant wag es 2os

Widdow Loadman 2 children T ho : Ward his wife 3 child 9 6 M ALLERSTANG FO REST.

(Second p ag e . ) Henry Whitﬁeld his wife

T ho and his f . Dent Senior wi e

T ho and his f . Dent Junior wi e Michaell Wharton his wife child John Wharton his wife 2 children Jonatha n G lidall and his wife and o ne maid ser uant 2 John Knewstup p his mother Widdow Turner her daug hter)

s and one m a s a Tho . Wrig ht id erv nt Anthon Ralph Shaw his sister ser uant John Atkinson T ho : Kue wstup p his wife one m aid ser uant

0 O ne m aid sar v uant wagis 2 s. T ho : ffother gill his wife on e child

0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

Willm Birkbeck hie wife a m other an hi nlai r a d s d se u nt d es 208 . T he : Wh arton his wife

o Knewstu his s s ser v t J hn p p i ter 85 . Jefer ay fotherg ill Widdow Hug ginson 1 child B r iham Hugg inson his wife a nd ser aunt s Willm Bulm ar St his wife T ho : Shaw his wife 1 child John Hugginson his wife 2 child T ho : Tun stall his wife 3 child l one m a ser uant a s 2os And id w ge . j

a (Third p g e . )

William Shaw and hiswife one child and one m aid ser uant Widdow Bir kdaile her daughte C udbar t Shaw St his wife 1 child Adam Sha w his mother Robert Shaw his wife 1 m an one m a ser uant a s 203 . id w g e 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

9 8 O MALLERSTANG F REST .

256

18 1 in s of a a a 583 In 7 , dur g the con truction the Midl nd R ilw y, In 1881 6 0 271 Judging from the preceding ﬁgures there has been a

' of 1801 not diminution the population Since , but it has been

l ss of e. very considerab N everthele , it is the opinion the aged

s and intelligent people with whom I have conver ed that, taking into account the remains of foundations which they

s of w have di covered, and the houses they know hich have gone down , there must have been a considerably larger

' a t am population 150 years g o than a present. I told that

a t ll Ai at Sand Pot, and Elm Gi , and at sgill , within recent

of s now memory there were clusters house , where there are

two or of only three in each place , and there are traces

o G . thers farther back . Mr. Blades told me that in Sweet Close there was found a hearthstone with peat ashes u A n er holm e pon it, and also, above g , a stone and ashes .

not out At another place, far away, stones were being dug for a h a fence , and they c me upon another heart stone with

s peat ashes ; and the groundwork stone, hewed that it was f a small house . Very much o the wood has disappeared .

one s for not At time it must have been con iderable , only

n n are roots consta tly being turned up, but the ames of

n of C astlethwaite divisio s the dale, such as Southwaite and ,

n of and Hangi g Lund bear evidence considerable wood, and

of l in addition to this many the farms are cal ed after trees , such as — i— Birk Birch rigg E lm Gill Haz el Gill

am s Syc ore . O E MALLERS TANG F R ST . 9 9

The following are the n ames of ﬁelds

A sh bank — Eller s Alders Rowantree dale H ollin (holly) close

Asp s .

of A sh i s Of names places you have Bank, and White B rk

H . ill , and Birkett In the cour se of time much of the wood has been cut

d n n . e ow , without being replaced by you g trees This proc ss

on s o is apt to go here and elsewhere , and so, in the cour e f

as time, a wooded district , such yours has been , comes to be

for of in no way remarkable its abundance trees . There is

s on G eo . one handsome tree still tanding the land of Mr.

d to se s w an e. c Blades , which he kindly took me It is a y

is of k of more , and the handsomest tree its kind I now in the district .

. s In tho e days when the population was larger, and your fathers were more overshadowed with trees than y ou are now of r a , the habits the people, f om all I can le rn, were

was for simpler. Knitting a universal occupation , both the

a nd two men women ; indeed , it used to be said , when “ ” young folks were wed, that if they were good knitters

of they would do . The kind knitting was the making of pop jackets and caps, such as those worn by sailors . They ft o en spent an evening in each others houses , and this “ ’ was called going a sitting . They sat in a semicircle on stools, around the ﬁre , and did their knitting exclusively by its light . At supper time bread and milk and cheese were

out o brought and put upon a coppy st ol . Men as well as women engaged in knitting, with which they occupied them selves as they were walking along the road, or in intervals when they were shepherding. Their work when done 100 MALLERSTANG FO REST .

o s L aw o f they to k to Jame Outhgill , forty years ago . He

and s s f r a kept a draper grocer hop , and the olks ar nged to ” s w wear their earning ith him . He took the knitted

a or S work to Kend l , sent it by the carrier . In the pring,

of s . his wife , Mary, a woman ome character, made a special

and f journey to Kendal, brought back gown pieces , rom

of which the women the dale made a selection, and the

’ inspection of the aforesaid gown pieces on the wife s return

of . was an event . considerable excitement For these the

women paid by knitting during the winter. Into the question of the dress of the present as compared with the

s s s ss . own pa t, it is carcely my bu ine to enter For my part I cannot see that any fault can be found with the tweed

our suits worn by young men, though their fathers will

aﬂir m too that there is nothing like the homespun . Then , ,

ar e a s the young girls , a rule , comely in their attire , though their mothers look b ack with regret up On the dark blue

’ l f s of s own wool en stu f the maiden spinning, worn in their

days . Dr . Milner Fothergill, in a paper he contributed to

G d W ds on of s few oo or , the subject dres , a months ago ,

wa im th muta bilit contended, and I think rightly, for and y ,

two features that should ever be borne in mind . Owing to

has the introduction of machinery, knitting fallen into

s d s ou disu e, and notwithstanding other a vantage y are , from w a pecuniary point of vie , losers by the change . In those

s days more money was cleared and aved . Indeed, in the

a dale of Dent, I understand that f rms have been purchased

of a by this branch industry, and so essenti l was it as an

o s the aid t subsi tence, that early in the century, when revo

iz in of lution g inﬂuence of machinery began to be felt, some the inhabitants of your Dale were forced to leave and

f r migrate to the manu actu ing towns, especially Bradford .

102 L N O MA LERSTA G F REST.

f Mr . Geo . Blades in ormed me as an example, that the

f of lVilliam s grand ather and grandmother Mr . Clea by, who

s not ne lived at Ai gill, did burn more than o pound of ” s white candle in the year . I have been told the following

of f s anecdote a man who had come rom some other pari h ,

saw s of s ff s and for the ﬁr t time a pair nu er . He picked

saw ar them up , looked at them , in p t their design, and then , snuﬂin g the candle with his ﬁnger and thumb, deposited f f o . the burnt wick in the box the snu fers Then , looking “ u of n s p with the air a discoverer, remarked, Very i geniou ” things 1

A S s of s a s in the adjoining pari h Raven toned le , ales were

l on a f cal ed in the church yard Sund y morning, a ter divine

’ ” was on service . Once a year there Shoemakers Sunday, “ ’ ” s s which day the people as embled at The King Head ,

’ s and paid their hoemakers bills . The Sunday fell in August

’ ’ on s s St. Crispin day, the hoemakers patron saint, and just

s s before the fair at Settle, at which the hoemaker bought

s n their leather. The day was characteri ed by drinki g, and

s as on an amount of holiday dis ipation . There w e well — known character J oss Dick who used to spend a great

of w s s deal his time, at the season, in cutting do n ru he ,

as s s which he sold down the country, as well tone for

s stoning. Mo s besoms, too, were generally used here ; and

rt of s the the pa icular kind mo s being abundant in dale, they l were exported . They a so made besoms of birch twigs, and

not their creels also they made themselves. Of these things

few s - a single specimen remains. A decrepit pinning wheels

ou tale of are among y , which tell a bygone days , when the

- now dale was more self contained than it is , and the people realised themselves more fully to be a community of them

s as a of . elves, rather than fring e a great population Your 103 MALLERSTANG FO REST .

i s n of s g ll were haunted , and the impendi g shadows the almo t — perpendicular ridge on either side gave an austerity I had

— s almost said a foreboding superstition to your father . “ There was the steamlike Spray which rose from the waterfall on u the mountain side in rainy weather, and which pop lar

’ imag ination transformed into an auld wife s kettle ; there

too a was , , Rob Roy, who was said to inhabit a c ve at Castle

i s all thwaite and the black hen, which nvariably fru trated — attempts to une arth the buried treasure a chest of gold of Pendragon Castle, by scratching in at night the soil which ” l s had been dug out by day . Beautifu white ladie , it is

i s sa d, had been seen walking about the ruin of Pendragon

’ W rn of so Castle at the itching ho twelve o clock at night. Al it was said a headless ghost had been seen coming out of

s the gate before the ca tle . And as an indication that the

s of n castle was regarded as the rendezvou ghosts, I lear that two r s or th ee of the ﬁelds adjoining it are called Boggle .

N or we need be surprised at this superstition . The desolate ruin, with broken windows and doorways, half seen and half

s hidden by bu hes, would be likely to suggest supernatural

s u s vi itants to the imaginative and cred lou mind . In the

Hist r o R a verwtoneda le a the o y f , I had occ sion to notice

s - a - charms the people u ed , as late as half century ago, to

ff s ward o evil spirit . Miss Fawcett tells me that in your

of dale , ﬁfty years ago , when the hearthstone Deep Gill

u was two farm ho se was taken up, the discovery made of or

of three brown earthenware bottles, each bottle being full crooked pins , which the residents used as a charm to keep off evil spirits. I have also had communicated to me many what I may call ﬁreside stories, that have been handed down through

of I T wo families, and which give a specimen . hundred 104 MALLERSTANG FOREST .

' “ s years ago a man named Ive on , who had an evil eye and ” his son ow an unlucky hand, went with to get wood . N t s was of a hi Iveson a man hasty temper, and it ppears that on s hi this occa ion he returned home with s son dead . His w f a the i e immedi tely charged him with having killed boy, but he said that he had been killed by a clog of wood falling o n him f s as they were loading the cart . Still his wi e persi ted “ ’ ” Thou s killed him . At that time the law of the land was not in an unsettled state, and the matter was enquired m ’ into . Still the an s conscience accused him, and he was

a l to out so he rd at times impu sively cry , that he received the r ” f f C . s nickname y His wi e, too, ever after houted a ter

‘ ’ ” f T ho u s b f o . him , killed my y Such stories urnish us

s of of with glimp es the rude habits the people . They were not n z of civilized, as we recog i e the meaning that word ;

s they were in the main, however, hone t and truthful , and

s - vigorous . They were elf reliant, and shrewd in their

s a a . busine s relations, with sharp eye to the m in chance

a s for Beneﬁcial ch nge , however, have come here ; instead of a or of n was never h ving a post, havi g it (which the next ! s o u tep) twice in the week , y can receive and send away

u s r f s. letters every day . Yo r hou es are lit with pa a ﬁn lamp

Y ou a ou see the daily p pers , and y hear the rattle almost all day long of the railway car and locomotive as they run on

h a s a lofty elevation t rough your dale . The medi eval darknes

s has ou has gone, indeed its lingering mi t retired, and y are now particip ating in many of the comforts and ble ssings of the nineteenth century .

s and a o so ot u a Mr . John Dicken on the l te Rev . R. R bin n g p petition

- f a s a o and s a d on s a s and twenty our ye r g , it re ulted in elivery Wedne d y

F a s rid y .

106 MALLERSTANG F OREST

h s da to a we is o ur is T i y pl y think it due, Th I c an ” m a not ff to ou a And hop e it y be o ence y , llow .

m at ! mas now a law I A onth we require, By wh t ” at and at as e s . do not A week Shrovetide E t r we de ire know .

sam at s a is o ur The e Whit und y it rig ht,

one m to ou a to And thing ore y we h ve write, A ll holy days (three in the year to be our rule)

T o a a not a a at s ttend the ch pel , but ppe r chool .

' r od and f a a la The erul we sh ll y by , In hopes that y ou will not our points untie if o ur as s s o too a to use And t k h uld pr ve h rd , o m a ee I y s . Y ou Wl ll our a s s tender ye r excu e.

O n a a to s a wh t we h ve writ we think it ﬁt t nd, A nd which But ever must obey your ju st comm and stand a a us s and not fa m m s Pr y g r nt the e, then we will il A ighty on ter ”

a i o ai . T o ou a ass of a s a ale t tre t y with gl M ller t ng . prev l

T o of is a s s m a the order th p per I ub cribe y h nd .

While y ou obey (as you say) every ju st command .

S S I G E Sig ned THOMA GA C O N .

N ov 18 1 40. . , 7

out The other barring poetic piece I have , is dated Sep 27th 179 4 tember , , just in time to secure the holiday at m to is . Brough Hill, which allusion here ade It is longer

Its and more learned in allusion than the preceding. ﬁrst line is the same as that of the piece which I have given in

s of my Hi tory and Traditions Ravenstonedale, composed by the Ravenstonedale boys for their barring out ; in other

ff is as s respects it is di erent . It follow

Rules between the master of Mallerstang School and the scholars at

a r out. . 27th 179 4 . o o as the b r ing Sept , H n ured M ter,

not s s s s s m to a Be urpri ed the e line hould co e h nd, ’ The n aked truth they ll let y ou understa nd We and our jovial crew do all disdain s s f s and is am a The e ponderou etter , th cr ping ch in . N 1 MALLERSTA G FO REST . 07

A s on our beds we all profoundly slept

I o ur c am er s a in a nto h b g re t M erv crept,

' W a fu o s r did a a as s a ith w l l ok the e g re t P ll t nd , ‘ o e Her dr eadful E g is in her p t nt hand. A nd brieﬂy thus Bo ys will y ou labour still i Tha t you ha ve play it is my sacred will Therefore when you return ag ain to school ' Des pise your master s a wful so vereign rule .

Lon ha t m now g th he kep the hel , but , im a Take you the helm and let h t ke the prow . Therefore when we returned to school aga in

Your birchen sce ptr e we did quite disdain .

’ Then loc k d the door when you did turn your bac k i a Then we did straig ht no recreat on l ck . ' is and to mo sir l a for a Th , rrow, , we l h ve pl y,

Also eac h feast and every holy day .

’ T wo days at Broug h Hill we hope you ll remember ' Th at s the ﬁrst of O ctober and the l as t of Septe mber F or s a a da si every new chol r y we de re ,

It being the old custo m we do it require .

s a af o ik w s do a Thur d y terno n we l e i e cr ve, ’ A nd S aturday afternoon we re determined to have N enty eig ht days at Christmas we have its true

s at s - i we a m as our And even hrove t de cl i due.

Also take c are tha t y ou do punish none ’ U il an a s nt Epiph y be p s d and g one . S ir s man s ar e vi a s , the e de d ci l , pr y con ent T o si s m m g n this bill and g rant u erri ent . F or recompe nce whereof we will not fail o T o g ive y u and your friends a glass of ale . ' F m a is e n not one ot ro wh t writt we ll yield j , ts sia law a a e s no I like the Per n th t lt r t. In witness whereof we the said parties have hereunto set our hands da s a the y and year ﬁr t bove written . HUG H BL BN KHO R N S c h lars m as E N o 01m W I E M as J T N ANT t J GARTH A T . ter Witness nnvsox MILE S Hur c E nwn. Coar se D O BIN S A AM R ON Bondsman .

A p ote nt shield that was supposed to t urn every one who looked upon i o s o nt t ne. l 08 MALLERSTANG FOREST.

After this usual and well - understood rebellion on the part of s a the boys, the chool duties were resumed, the m ster

regar ding it simply as one of the incidents of the year . And f as . things went on much they did be ore, except that the Rev

wc ett his m e us . F a Mr , daughters laughingly informed , ually

gave the scholars a tea on the afternoon of the barring - out

day ! Mr. Garthwaite was succeeded by the Revs . J . Monk J house, James Hunter, and ohn Fawcett, who were followed

s s by Mr. Alder on, Mr. Robt . Fothergill , and other , until the

ss w new pa ing Of the Education Act , hich introduced a

s sy tem . — One thing was obvious that a n ew schoolr oom was

s had too needed . The bi hop found fault , , that the church

yard should b e used a s a playground . Several attempts

t new were made o raise money to build a schoolroom , but k of s. . . s they failed . The names the Rev J Fawcett, J Brun ill,

ff s of r s a and Lancelot Je er on, B ough , must e peci lly be men

i n t o ed in thi s connection .

to to Then came, owing the Education Act, an order build

s to the chool according Government requirement . As the

s not on landlord could agree the mode Of operation , a School

s . . Board was formed . The ﬁrst members were Me srs G f Blades, J . Steel , Matthew Metcal e , George Dent , and Philip

s for Harri on . They met the ﬁrst time after the election,

6 . s was 1 187 . . . April , Mr G Blade elected chairman The members determined upon pl ans and speciﬁcations for a new

s to of board school , to be ubmitted the lords the Education

was — Department . The architect Mr . Smith John Parker,

S tr ic kland ate Of g , the mason ; Thomas Fothergill, Nateby,

s h Slater ; Wm . Jack on, Kirkby Step en, joiner and painter ;

Robert Armstrong, plasterer ; Thornton, plumber. Cost,

£5 29 s u w . Side by side with thi it may interest y o to kno

110 MALLERSTANG FOREST .

s was to you was that your chool building more costly . Of course the estimated building of ﬁfty years before would have been much simpler in its character, much of the work would have been not only at a lower rate than it was six years ago ; it would have been cheerfully given , and the homely economy which I have Observed in many depart

s of s . ment dale life would have been exerci ed However, the building m which we are now assembled is in the course of being paid for, I understand, and is a credit to the valley.

on 11th 187 7 . The school was Opened September , The

f on s ss children had a ree tea given them the occa ion . Mi

s ss Gordon was appointed mi tre . The present mistress is

s n ° Miss Mary Jane Law on . The followi g may interest you The Register of Mortgage of the Mallerstang School Board

h s - l 0t . ec 7 5 6 of . 7 . pursuant to Victoria, chap xvi , Date

th 187 7 . O f £ 2 e 4 5 9 . de d , August , Amount mortgage ,

of one m s Mallerstang School Board the part, and Willia on

illink E s . s W , q , Secretary to the Public Works Loan Commi 5 0 £22 1 r s of 1s. sione , the other part, to be repaid in years ,

on 4 th of 187 8 on to be paid the Aug ust, , and every

4th s succeeding year up to and including the day Of Augu t,

was 6th 187 7 19 26 . The deed registered August , . The Wesleyan Chapel was Opened on the ﬁrst Sunday in

1879 . . s . June, , by the Rev Mr De pres It was erected chieﬂy f i o . s through the exert ons Mr G. Dent, the late Mr. Jo eph

- A - u King, and others . Sunday school is ta ght in connection with the chapel . The foundation stone was laid by Mr .

Pi hills . . ss and s . g , Mr A Dent , Mi Dent, Mis Thompson “ ” 1879 A class had been held here some time before , and the building of the chapel was a necessity to accommodate the members Of the Methodist Society here . And though I am no advocate for the multiplication of little places of A M LLERSTANG FOREST. l 11

s or s o worship in a tationary a dimini hing population , f course each section of the Church has a right to look after w i ts o n .

of The following chronicle the weather, and various inci

s and dent , has been handed to me by Captain Grimshaw, it

no ou will , I have doubt, be interesting to y . It was copied

’ s from an Old book in Captain Grim haw s possession , which

of belonged at the time to the owner Sand Pot, Mallerstang :

T he dr out so m was in a 1 3 y er ye ye r 7 7. w The following year as a very for ther ly spring . It was on S unday ye 25th day of February

a 2 That we h d hifes of Bees yt did bear Loading s. O n the 15th of June 1745 I was on hesengill woad A nd I see a uoave a if of s in q [cove] hole dr t now .

O n 15th da O f 1749 s a i f was the y June being Thur d y , W ldbore ell

sn 65 w s O i d . A n d a was covered with ow, like i e uthg ll e g e th t night w a in c s f s exceeding hard frost so ha rd as there as w ter lub ro e over.

I a 1 63 e was er tul a a wet l s n the ye r 7 wint r p y [p rticul rly with p ase .

T m s ﬁouds ﬂ s k and a s ama ma he o t [ ood ] ever nown ye gre te t d g e in ny .

In the year 1765 was the great droug hty summer . It continued from

a 3l s u us . S m few s r s no w about 5th of M y to t A g t o e howe then.

s of s i s . as a not r un Mo t ye pr ng dried up C tle well we l ded, it could

e nor m s o ut O f well s o s down the g utt r , beti e the , it t od below the ﬁr t a w at s is ﬂa in m a c o out of . tep . it gg ed the botto , we w tered Eden it

w 6s a m £1 . O a 3 us ns as s. 1765 . In Aug t Butter Firki t e l per peck .

a 14s . 4d u . of ha ot we m Whe t . per bo l A very little crop y g , oed

it one day and g ot it the next it was so very hot.

a s si of ssom s and r a s a i of 1776 . The gre te t g ht blo ever een g e te t qu nt ty f of all s s a a s and s a was and ruit ort bo th orch rd wood th t ever known, a was s s in s a ﬁnest crop s of corn th t ever een . Apple ye outh contr cted

r s for 17000 s l. for 1s. p e bu hell bu hel 112 MALLERSTANG FOREST.

In the year 1778 9 scarce any snow or frost quite open all winter

i in a as f a as s m a s never the like seen . Everyth ng Febru ry orw rd o e ye r in M ay .

m n ha d md M a 1 2 s o s 6 . s and all eat o t 2 77 u . y , A t r y pri g y per tone Hard frost every night this was 2nd M ay larg e snow drifts all along

O . fed 2 s of s M a 14 d a uthg ill Edg e I hive bee with honey in y th y , it

m at m a 23 . 6d . . a s 19 s . a a o s O O . . was so stor y . e l per peck t p lo d Pot t e 2 f 4 d . o n . a d. . m d . V . 10 . p . peck Bee 1 per p u d e l 2 p pound Good utton 103 a 1 s 8 s 5 . d. . 4d. . per pound Butter . per tone , Whe t per bowel It

s m and l oth and f s l 17 of continued tor y dry , ro t every night ti l the th

a was s m a m a so M y . Then o e w r r in continued well.

f a 1 6 1l th 12 a . Jos : o a 7 7. M rch Fothergill Southw ite in M ller s an had a i of s as a da and to O ld t g h ve bee c t bo th y knit, but went the hive ag am .

s ou So ends an intere ting chronicle , such as any Of y might

- keep to day . The constituted authority of the dale is very much the

t o same as that of the adjoining dales . There are w overseers

s Bousﬁeld their name at the present time are Mr. William

s and Mr. Richard Ma on. There are two surveyors of the ll f s . . highway , Mr Wi iam Metcal e and Mr John Bellas . There is one poor- law guardi an who represents you on the poor - law

f r . o board, elected annually The guardian this year is Mr.

f r of James Slinger o Cranber y. Your present poor rate value the township is The basi s of county valuation ﬁxed

s 187 9 in quarter se sion in April , , was The game and

ﬁsh G s w n , Captain rim ha informs me, belo g to the customary

n holders . I understand that although you contribute a ha d

n ff some sum, varyi g according to the di erence of rate, to the

ou s maintenance Of the poor, y have not received any pari h

f for F or relie , up to very recently, the last thirty years .

unate n t indeed have been your circumsta ces, that there has not been one amongst you so poor as to need outside hel p .

114 MALLERSTANG FOREST.

n nv O ld be a co siderable inco enience, inasmuch as in the days the trafﬁc on the highway between Hawes and Kirkby

was s a of Stephen very con iderable, and the necess ries life were brought by carriers and dealers almost to the thre shold of the farmer but Since the construction of the line the

s inhabitant have been deprived Of that accommodation , ! n ss s carriers bei g no longer nece ary . At the pre ent time , however, there is , as you know, considerable agitation going on m for of s r in your idst, the erection a tation in you dale,

O f ou s l which those us who are outside, and y e pecia ly who

s to s of a are in ide, see be neces ary. At the head M llerstang,

h s i of 1167 which is its ighe t point, the l ne is at an elevation

c onsi feet above the sea, and in its entire length it is at a

r able de elevation from the dale . During its construction

of a who there was quite an invasion the navvy cl ss, mostly

s lived in huts at Birket and Aisgill . I under tand that their

of . moral inﬂuence here was not good, to say the least it By this time I trust that every trace Of its baleful effect has gone . For some time after the passenger trains had com m enc ed running they attracted the attention of the people f Of the dale , and I have been in ormed that during the hay

of time that year, the haymakers were continually arrested in their work by watching them . Then at night they

da attracted as much attention as they did by y , and seemed

u u on more wonderful, lit p and r shing , against the sombre

of N ow background Wild Boar Fell . , I suppose, you

s i carcely see them . Meanwh le they are an important

element Of education here . They make y ou realise that

of there is an England beyond what you see it. They sug

‘ to ou n ou with fac ilities for gest travel y , and fur ish y carrying

out your wish . They weaken in adult life the rooted feeling

’ a that your fathers had for the pl ce . The patriotism for the

S ee d a 123 Appen ix, p g e . O S 1 MALLERSTANG F RE T . l 5

a . dale is not less , but the loc l prejudice is In olden times a

' S hor ill i n e man who went from g to Outhgill to l ve, a dista c

300 s n his own under yard , though a other division merely of

s s dale, a ked his clergyman what he had done to be tran

! of a ported In those days many the inhabit nts were born ,

O ld and brought up , lived to age, died in the dale , without going beyond it . Their world was Mallerstang . Their king was Lord de Clifford or Lord Thanet . Their primate was the of r incumbent the Mother Chu ch , at Kirkby Stephen ,

own as under whom , in those days , their minister laboured

of u a curate , and their great sensation the year was Bro gh

Hill Fair. “ Some look b ac k with wistful regret upon the good old ” s sa time ; with such I have no sympathy . But I do y ,

for O f or that the race yeomen , statesmen , as you call them ,

are n n of who passi g away, I entertai a profound respect, and — whom only two remain in the dale M r . Thomas Blades and — Mr . Philip Harrison and I believe the time has very nearly ,

o —I if not quite , c me when something Should be done do not know what I have no political nostrum on the subject when this class O f men Sh all be reinstated ; and that we m a ai see in y ag n the land, not the hands of the few, and

a s th t increa ingly as at present, but the many sturdy, self

- m men respecting, well infor ed and independent , such as many of your fore - elders were ; who in the time of commotion or change in this country, should it come, would be on the

of n side of order, as a tower stre gth.

l The readers who have proceeded with me so far, wi l , I

c i am quite sure , thank me for oncluding this Lecture w th a

R . . M . A . . paper by the ev W Thompson , , of Sedbergh He is

and . the curate there , is withal a scholarly man He says 116 MALLERSTANG FOREST.

I have put together a few reminiscences of Mallerstang

f as w li e I kne it some thirty years ago . Short as is the

s s retro pect , it reache back to the days before the steam

' engine had p uﬁ ed away many an old- world notion and

u had t s c stom from among us. We then but lit le intercour e

as with the great world outside us, and might be regarded

of the unadulterated produce the dale, and the genuine

of of inheritors the dialect and traditions the past. We

or so were, in fact, eleven miles from the nearest railway

of i station, and many the older generation l ved and died without ever having seen a locomotive . A weekly news

or wa paper two found their y into the dale , and were handed about until the next number made its appearance and

of entered on a similar circuit. Our occupations were a

a s O f truly rural n ture, the u ual routine a small grazing farm

a nd - s being varied only by clippings Sheep washing , hay

‘ ’ ‘ ’ i r ﬁ w ak o a es. m ing, mowing bedd ng, cutting peats and

not of s We were a clannish folk, and fond stranger . But there were three times in the year when we might expect to

s s a see them in unu ual number , and these were always se sons

of great excitement to the rising generation . The ﬁrst was

now Outhgill Fair, numbered among the bygones ; the second was when the droves of sheep and cattle from Scot land were on their way to the Yorkshire fairs ; and the

of third was about the time Brough Hill Fair, when for several days a miscellaneous panorama of men and things

d of deﬁle through the dale. Some the more notable charac

for e r e- a ters were eagerly looked ev ry year, and their p

r i p ea anc e was hailed w th delight. Such was the case in

- er particular with that unfailing Brough Hill , the man who

had forsworn the use Of a hat . The only resident gentlemen we had among us were the

118 MALLERSTANG F O REST.

showed that we took a mutual interest in each others j oys

and sorrows .

“ ' Among recollections of boyish in ter est I may note the

‘ ’ ‘ ’ capture of bullyfr og s and tommyloac hes in Outhgill

o f i Beck, and the tickling trout in the r ver Eden . Then , at

s t s in S hor t ill W the proper eason , here were strawberrie g ood ,

us - s and curio ly treaked snail shells among them withal . Blackberries and cranberries sometime s allured us to the

‘ ’ ‘ ’ s bum l kites and n - leam er s higher ground , but b y brow

‘ ’ were to be had ne arer to hand ; and even c houp s and

‘ ’ h kb er r ies not s s s ec were always de pi ed . Sometime we

for s s e were seized with ambition remoter cene , when a voyag of exploration would be made to the Old coal - pit on one side

O f l or on the va ley, to the top of Wild Boar the other . “ The Fifth of November was a day much to be Observed

we s among us, and vi ited every house in due order with a v iew to Obtaining cash for the purchase of tar- barrel s and

our s other combustibles . We invariably announced pre ence by the blowing of horns and the reciting of a time - honour ed

of of ditty, setting forth the Obligation a proper recognition

we Gunpowder Plot . It was rarely that failed in extracting

we the needful coin ; but if such a calamity Should ensue,

' eﬁusion were equally prepared with another poetical , which

to s of boded much evil the member that unhappy household .

s Nor were we , on les public occasions, without our indoor

m set . enjoy ents, when the long winter evenings in Our

‘ ’ elders were at all times fond of going a - Sitting to each

s u - other houses, and too often ind lged in ghost stories and

of tales the uncanny and the marvellous . I could view with equanimity the steam - like spray ri sing from a waterfall on l the mountain side in rainy weather, which popu ar ‘ ’ ’ I imagination transformed into an auld wife s kettle, but O MALLERSTANG F REST . 119 had a R o was in a real dre d of Rob y , who said to habit

C astlethwaite a cave at , and of the old black hen , which invariably frustrated all attempts to unearth the buried

as r in tre ure at Pend agon Castle , by scratching at night the

‘ ' ’ i T oﬁee- soil wh ch had been dug out by day. joins were

‘ ’ s s - rare fun to the young ter , while at merry neets the lads and lasses of a larger growth tripped it blithely to the accompaniment of fiddle , concertina, or dulcimer, for pianos But i were quite unknown. of all del ghts perhaps none fluttered the j uvenile breas t more than the announcement that a monster circ us or menagerie was about to vi sit Kirkby Stephen and though it was five mile s thither and five mile s

a s h o f h ck, the prank of the clown and the uncout ways the

‘ ’ wild beasts had charms which fe w Mauston lads coul d resi st ; and we lightened the journey with a look at the

- - f leech pond at Dale foot, and with equestrian per ormances on the donkeys which frequented the roadside near Wharton

Park .

is I have one more reminiscence , and that connected with the school and the church . After entering the porch

a - O f s of the latter, well worn ﬂight stone teps led to an upper

i of room , in wh ch the children the dale were taught reading,

a writing, and a modicum of arithmetic . This room lways m bulked large in y imagination , until I lately visited it again , when it seemed wonderfully dwarfed in its dimensions,

I - new and found it no longer the centre of learning , a brand

its Board School having completely eclipsed glory . The

was O ld church, too, not the church of my childhood . The longitudinal oak pews had given place to cross - benches of a

d - had mo ern pattern , and the towering three decker dwindled to a mere shadow of its former self. Even the loaves of

’ s s of Middleton Charity, which used to be di played on one 12 0 MALLERSTANG FOREST.

- s s the window ledge , had ecured more eligible quarters in a

v ut gilded case . A new estry had broken o ; and I pictured to s myself, by way of contrast, the dingy surplice which u ed

of one of s to be laid over the back the pew , waiting to be

of r s donned in the body the chu ch . I eemed to hear again the sonorous voice of Old James Middleto n giving out a

s P alm from Tate and Brady, and pitching the note with a

on preliminary tootle the ﬂute , while the clergyman took that and other Opportunities of recruiting his energies with a

f s f s s. o . s pinch nu f I mu ed on all thi , and much beside

‘ ’ l not s s sa old was I cou d con cientiou ly y the better, but I indulged a momentary pang of regret th at so many of the vi sible mementos of my own happy Mallerstang childhood ” for s were ever vani hing away .

— N O T E T o readers unacq uainted with th e dialect th e foll owing brief exp ia ” " m r a o li on F la wes s m a b e o dd s s fo t e . n ation y welc e Be ing , ru he c ttle , “ “ “ d oa c a . for o s s d ﬂ outs or s. Hav er b r ea turf fuel , therwi e tyle , turve , t ke “ " “ “ " “ - mm d m . Y e r s W d . m s b e s. a ed e Blue ilk, ki e ilk , h rb rn , invit Bully ” ’ " - mbl o s a ds or m s m s. om m oa s oa es. Bu fr g , bullhe iller thu b T y l che , l ch y “ - m - m a s a e s or a s. T o a M aller stan ian th e kite , bl ck b rrie br ble berrie g ter bl ck

- u r z - s and berries would sug g est bl ack c r ants . h a el nut rip e " - a e s s . Ch ou s th e s of th e w os i s ready to le ve th hu k p , hep ild r e . Heck berr e , “ " ' - - th e i of th e . o a s s a ot s o se s in fru t bird cherry G ing itting , vi iting e ch her h u “ " - h e for om a and o sa o . o e o s a m s at t evening c p ny c nver ti n T ff e j in , entert in ent which a num ber of young persons resolved them selves into a j oint stock company

im for th e od on and s o of a a of of . a s o l ited, p r ucti di tributi n p nful t fee M u t n , n i i n of a s a th e native p r onou c at o M ller t ng .

122 ! APPENDI .

” “ ” “ ” - at Dove Coves, Pike Coves, Turn Coves, Rowantree ” ” is hec k . s Coves There a called Old Hu h . The word

s s s of hush is u ed in the dialect till , as de criptive a rush

wo . t he of water There are chalybeate springs in t dale .

on s They are situated not far from each other, and the ea tern s one is ide . The High Rigg Well, and the other is near

' ’ ’ s . Dr a on s D en Wildboar Jo eph s Gill g , a spot on Fell which

. was s the dragon suppo ed to frequent, and which it is thought

m s s by so e gives its name to Pendragon Ca tle . A fabulou

- ed and monster that prey upon men , women , innocent children,

o e its and c nc aled itself in its den whilst taking repose .

a ll f G r e t B e s . , ituated at Dale Foot, eet high There are several bells in the county Green Bell in Raven:

the fr stonedale . Some suppose that name is taken om the

r s of form, and othe that it is a Celtic word and a corruption

' on Baal , Baal having been worshipped by the Druids high hills. In the boundary ridings we meet continually with the

! ’ - a expression , As Heaven s water deals primitive and

f r poetic expression o water shed . Some of my readers may be interested to know that the turnpike road at the division of Yorkshire and Westmorland 1 194 8 is feet above the sea level , according to the Ordnance map . 5 9 . NOTE B, PAGE “ I have been furnished with a list of persons who have held the Ofﬁce of lords bailiff for the township of Mallerstang for

s 1 9 3 the last ninety year , commencing with the year 7 4 s 4 . James Atkin on, Dale Foot, years 22 s. Robert Atkinson, Dale Foot, year

s 16 Parkin Blade , Outhgill, years . ff Thomas Blades, Outhgill, the present baili , who ” s has been in that position for the last eight year . E ! 123 APP NDI .

O 113 N TE C, PAGE .

an There is almshouse at Appleby for widows , founded by

s . Lady Anne , Countess of Pembroke . Among t Mr Gar

’ thwaite s MSS . I ﬁnd the following petition from Alice Collin , of Mallerstang, had been presented to the Earl of Thanet

T o the R i h Hono ur e et T he humble etition t abl S a l o T ha . g c ville, E a r f n p

o A li e C oll-in wido w most humbl heweth f c , , y s Y i who is in 62nd ea of a e is of our pet tioner, the y r her g , the relict o l of a l s a in of s m a and John C l in, M l er t ng , the county We t orl nd . her fa s was a a u s i a ther, Henry Robin on , ten nt under yo r lord h p in the d le of a s a af M ller t ng oresaid. ’

Y s s a a. sma fa m of s and our petitioner hu b nd held ll r your lord hip , ’ with unfeigned g ratitude your petitioner acknowledg es your lordship s goodness ha ving been extended to wa rds her in the continuance of the sa fa id rm. ' Y u s h s n s ff afﬂ s and a o r lord ip petitio er , u ering under iction corpore l inﬁr mities as e a e a n n a a f a m of i11 , h t ned by g . l bouri g u der we k r e body ( s a s has m ma o to m upported by tender con titution) , hu bly de b ld i plore ' your lord ship s benevolent kindness to admit your petitioner into the

os a at a a a ma and ma s m m H pit l Appleby when v c ncy y occur, it y ee eet o s T so a as to t . s s your lord hip hi , which hould your petitioner be h ppy a l m s m i a f a obt in, it wil , with the ut o t hu il ty, be ever g r te ully cknow

u e as in i a &c . ledg ed. And yo r p titioner ( duty bound) w ll ever pr y ,

si do if to of a a nd do We, the under g ned , cert y the truth the bove, ’ humbly recommend the p etitioner to your lords hip s notice and p r otec tion .

ness our an s s 19 th da of S m 1809 . Wit h d thi y epte ber ,

JO HN G A R T R WA IT E .

CHR I ST OPH E R ROBINSON.

T he petitioner died before a vacancy occurred.

O 114 . N TE D , PAGE The inhabitants ﬁnding the inconvenience of not having a railway station, application was made to the Midland

' C om an thr o h u . . P p y, g Mr W Lowther, M. . , one of the members for the county, who made a representation to the Directors ! l 24 APPENDI .

a of the aforesaid comp ny. Accordingly an inspector was s te of ent down , who, af r making a careful examination the

f (be of line and probable tra ﬁc, , reported . As a result this the manager, Mr. Noble, stated that a station would neces

of a O f 5 00 sitate the construction road approach, yards long,

. s and a bridge, and that the outlay would not pay Cou e

S ub s quently the dale folks must wait a little longer. e

of quently an inﬂuential meeting the landholders, presided

was over by the Rev. W . Alnwick, held in the Board School , to take into consideration the question whether they were

“ prepared to construct the road provided that the railway

a w company would erect a station . The m jority ere of Opinion that the landholders would be willing to construct a the road . Meanwhile matter was referred to a committee appointed at that meeting. There is considerable sympathy with the folks of Maller

w a s i s stang in this matter, hich has expressed itself in er e of

s interesting and earnest letter , which have appeared in the

s newspapers, from tho e living within and without the dale . We all hope that a railway station at Mallerstang will soon

a r s be an accompli shed f ct. To tou ists such a tation would be a great advantage . At present Mallerstang is reached from the south by leaving the train at Hawes Junction , and

on a from the north by Kirkby Stephen, either the Midl nd

or - London and North Eastern Railway. The northern 2 boundary of Mallerstang is % miles from Kirkby Stephen .

of n In conclusion, I take this Opportunity thanki g the

of not many people Mallerstang, whose names I have

m e a mentioned, for their kindness in furnishing with inform

in s w tion, and many ways Shewing ympathy ith me in this

of of s work . One marked feature the folks Maller tang is

- s warm hearted ho pitality, and I hope it may ever continue.

LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS .

Hothﬁeld 4 s 12 s. Lord , copie Lord Bective , copie

E s . A lliott . . 2 . O . s o Allatt 1 . Rev . J . , copy Rev R . , M A , ; J Atkin n , q ,

m a E s . 8 . 0...... E . Ar it g e, q , ; Mr Allen , Rev W Alnwick , Rev G W

am r . G eo. s . in s s E s . M s A . Atk on , T . A . rgle , q , Allen , Mr Alder on, Mr J es

M s n. i r s. s A rey, Ann Atkin on, Mr. John Atkin o

E s . Jas . . . . ss E s . 2 s . . . A J Burg e , q , copie ; J K Butcher, q , Mr Bell , Rev A B. . R v m a . . s B . . A . M r s. . . e W Burrow , , Beck, W Bow n, Rev J Brown , , 7 w . “ a a . . E d os Bousﬁeld . . Mr . Beck, Mr . Th . , Mr J Br ithw ite, J Brun

m s a s s l E s E s . 2 ki l , q . , Colonel Burn , W. Lloyd Birbeck , q , A o Be rd ley,

E s . E s . . . . a s E s . air . . q , R. H . Be rd ley, q , Robert Bl , q , Mr T L Buck, H J

E s . . Blane E s . . a ai E s . 3 . . a , q , G F. Br ithw te , q , ; J B B iley, q , Mr Butt,

Wm . Joe. s . . as. a . Mr. Brun kill , Mr. L Burton , Mr J Br dbury, Mr

6 Bur no . . a . s . a s E s . . . Br dbury, Mr . H Beck, Tho Bl de , q , ; Mr M p , Mr R

a Bl ckett.

2 a E E s . . . s . M . P 2 s . . J Cropper, q , . , copie ; J B Cook, q , ; J C rver ,

. m a n 4 E s 4 . M r a a E s 4 ss a 2 s. q , ; W. C rver, q , ; Mi C rver, ; Ch berl i , ;

a m a s M r s . a . a . C ha elhow . . C pt in J W. C eron , Rev. J p , Rev S Cl rk on ,

a . s a E s . a E s . s . a Copel nd, J F. Cro thw ite, q , T . C rrick , q , Rev. Tho C lvert, Wm a E s . a s . s 4 . 08 ar s . as . Cle by, q , Mr J . Cl k, Mr. Tho Cle by, Mr M r h

m s a Cle ent on , Rev. J. C lvert .

S ir 1 C ins 4 s. a t . Georg e Duckett, B r , opy ; Mr John Dick on , ; Tho

E . E dw . a s a s E s s. i iss Dover, q , . Dover, q , Mr. Tho D xon, M Dixon , C u ew y

. . E 2 a s . G eo End, A C Dent, q , Mr . John Dent, Mr. . Dent, ; Mr . A ron

a s . . a s E s . P. ss . a s D vi , E B D w on , q , J . Mi S D w on .

. 1 a Dr Edg er , copy ; Mr. M rk Ellwood.

. o E s . . . . 2 s n ss E s . 2 J M F thergill, q , M D , copie W . Fur e , q , Robert

ss E s . F aulk ener . . . s E s . R ev s Furne , q , Mr A , J. R . Fo ter, q , E . For ter, mnE 12 LIST or sussc s s. 7

- F . F . R a E rm c ote . ss a 5 E s . . . . Mi wcett, H ell , q , Rev E H ven , R S

Wm. 2 s n Fa c et . F i us E s . . Ferg on , q , Mr Robin o w t , Mr otherg ll ,

M rs M ar t. r i 2. . g Fothe g ll ,

ms a s s . 3 . . s n E s . a . i 8 c . E s C pt Gr h w, opie A M Gib on , q , A M Gib o , q

A . so E s a un . ins . bs E s . s . . . 2 . j , tk on M Gi on, q , Tho Gib n, q , M D , Mr Gr y,

T . a a and a i a s l a s e 6 . . Antiqu ri n opog r ph c l Book e ler, M nche t r, ; Rev W B

G re nside A , M .

. 4 Hon . M . E s . 4 s a d . P. a . o . G . How r , , J H rker, q , M D , c pie Mr Hogg ,

w tso n . s r s He e . . . d a M . . Rev J Holroy , Mr. W. H rper, J , Rev A How on ,

. . c i so 2 . . a s iss e . hi Mr W Hut h n n , Rev J H rri on , M Hunt r, Mr John Hutc n

w i s M r s son M r . . . . a s 3 . E d . . . , J Hunter, Mr P H rri on , Mr Hutch n on , H

w w s. How He etson He etso E . a l a n s . . . . , H . , q , Rev J H l , Rev J He p , Tho

Hewetson s s M r s. son E . ss F a E . 2 . , q , Mi Hill , ; H ll , q , Hunter, Robert ,

E s . ss d s Jas . s E s . . . a a s E s . . . q , Mi Ho g on , Hud on , q , J E H rgre ve , q , J C

i so E s . 6 . . He arth n E s . . . Hetheringto , q , J Hutch n n , q , Mr R yg

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