Nihonbashi Guide Nihonbashi: The Starting Point of Tokyo

t is where it all began. Edo – to set up businesses (from Nihonbashi – the neighbourhood kimono making to seaweed shops) the Mandarin Oriental, Tokyo calls on reclaimed land surrounded by a home – is not only a key financial network of canals. and commercial hub in a hyper- Fast-forward more than four Imodern capital. It is also the birthplace centuries and modern-day Nihonbashi of Tokyo. is no less lively. It was in 1604 that a shogun Today, the neat Kyoto-inspired named Ieyasu Tokugawa changed the layout is still lined with countless course of Japanese history by shifting generations-old family businesses the capital from west to east – where which sit alongside contemporary he promptly set about creating a skyscrapers, financial institutions and brand new city that would eventually historic department stores. become Tokyo. This guide showcases the very The first thing he did was build best of Nihonbashi. There are the Nihonbashi Bridge. The iconic structure unique culinary specialties that have – from which Mount Fuji could be seen been produced for centuries (Food); in the distance – was declared the the artisan craftsmen who create centre of Japan and the starting point exquisite handcrafted products of five key routes across the country (Culture); and a string of activities for (even today, seven national roads are visitors to try out (Experience). measured from here). Not to forget, of course, the The bridge was just the bridge: it may have been rebuilt over beginning. A steady flow of the centuries and be partially hidden entrepreneurial merchants from by the highway, but it’s still standing across the country swept into the and remains today a proud symbol of fast-growing city – then known as the very heart of Tokyo. Timeline

1603 Nihonbashi Bridge is constructed in wood as ordered by Shogun Tokugawa. 1604 The bridge is declared the starting point of five key routes across Japan. Canal networks grow, merchants set up shop and a fish market opens. 1896 Opening of Bank of Japan HQ, built in an iconic Neo-Baroque building designed by Tatsuno Kingo. 1911 Nihonbashi Bridge is built for the 19th time – and on this occasion, it’s made of stone. 1914 Mitsukoshi, Japan’s oldest department store, opens its flagship building. 1929 Mitsui Honkan, the historic HQ of the Mitsui family, is completed in Neoclassical style. 2005 Mandarin Oriental, Tokyo – with its Japanese design aesthetic, nature-inspired themes and expansive 38th floor lobby views – opens. 2014 Renovation of Fukutoku Shrine completed. F ood Culinary specialties F 02 F 03 from food stores Yamamoto Nihonbashi F 01 Noriten Kanmo Seaweed Fish cakes Eitaro Sohonpo Traditional sweets This store has sold nori seaweed – a vital ingredient in Japanese It began life in cuisine – for over Nihonbashi as a portable 160 years. Nirvana sweets stall inside the for seaweed-lovers, local fish market in 1857. Yamamoto Noriten is Today, the confectioners filled with an assortment sell a cornucopia of of seaweed – from One famed Nihonbashi traditional treats in signature orange tins treat is hanpen - a its shop and tearoom, of roasted nori to Hello feathery-light white fish including Nihonbashi Kitty themed yuzu- paste cake, often served mochi - sticky seaweed flecked snacks. Don’t in hot soupy dishes rice cakes – and, its miss white-gloved staff such as oden winter most famed signature preparing seaweed at a hotpots. Friendly staff creation, kintsuba, demonstration counter. in headscarves stand delicious flour-coated behind a glass counter rolls of sweet bean at Nihonbashi Kanmo – paste. experts since 1688 – and serve a steady stream of customers hanpen (delicious with a little fresh ginger) plus a colourful array of fish paste creations.

1-11-8 Nihonbashi Muromachi / hanpen.co.jp 1-2-5 Nihonbashi / eitaro. 1-6-3 Nihonbashi Muromachi / Mon-Fri 10am-6pm, Sat com / 9.30am-6pm, closed / yamamoto-noriten.co.jp / 10am-5pm, closed Sun, Sun, public holidays 9.30am-6pm, open daily public holidays F 04 F 05 F 06 Nihonbashi Ninben Nihonbashi Funasa Dried bonito and dashi Sembikiya Preserved food Premium fruit Ninben may be housed This tiny shop – just in the modern COREDO opposite Nihonbashi complex, but its roots Kanmo – celebrates date back to 1699. The another local invention: establishment pioneered tsukudani, preserved selling Japan’s first foods boiled down in packages of dried fish soy sauce (intensely flakes (katsuobushi) flavoursome, delicious – a vital ingredient in sprinkled on rice). The dashi stock, the basis shop, founded in 1862, of countless Japanese sells pretty paper- dishes. Visitors can There are perhaps few wrapped Edo-style watch staff expertly more perfect fruits in preserves, from conger shave fish flakes before the world than those eel and kombu seaweed sipping takeaway cups displayed in Sembikiya to clams. of hot broth from its (in the same building Nihonbashi Dashi Bar. as the hotel). Japan’s 1-12-13 Nihonbashi oldest fruit shop, it was Muromachi / ganso- opened by a samurai in tsukudani.com / Mon-Sat 1834 and showcases 10am-6pm, closed Sun, public holidays 11am-4pm an array of premium fruits from across Japan. A highlight? Perfectly spherical and aromatic muskmelons from sun- kissed Shizuoka.

COREDO Muromachi 1, 1F, Nihonbashi Mitsui Tower 1F, 2-2-1 Nihonbashi Muromachi 2-1-2 Nihonbashi Muromachi / ninben.co.jp / 10am-8pm, / sembikiya.co.jp / 10am- open daily 7pm, open daily C ulture Artisan crafts and C 02 C 03 traditional goods Kiya Yamada Knives C 01 Heiando Lacquerware Nihombashi Another generations- Mitsukoshi old Nihonbashi gem in COREDO Muromachi 1, Main Store Kiya has been perfecting Department store the art of handcrafting exquisite kitchen knives since 1792. Friendly Two bronze lions mark staff guide visitors the Renaissance-style through a medley of entrance of Japan’s knives fusing technology oldest department store. with craftsmanship, With its roots in many with the name It’s all about exquisite 17th century kimono of its artisan creator lacquerware at Yamada shop Echigoya, it has engraved in Japanese Heiando (a purveyor of since evolved into a onto the blade. General choice for the Imperial major retail landmark. Japanese kitchen tools, Household). Founded in Highlights include its from steamers to ginger 1919, this small boutique, kimono department on graters, are also on sale. on an upper level of the 4th – and largest – COREDO Muromachi floor plus a basement COREDO Muromachi 1, 1F, 3, showcases high depachika food hall. 2-2-1 Nihonbashi Muromachi quality lacquerware in / kiya-hamono.co.jp / 10am- 8pm, open daily varying designs, from contemporary plates with abstract gold motifs to classic vermillion red soup bowls.

1-4-1 Nihonbashi Muromachi COREDO Muromachi 3, 2F, / mitsukoshi.mistore.jp / 1-5-5 Nihonbashi Muromachi 10am-7pm (hours may vary / heiando.com / 10am-9pm, by season), open daily open daily C 04 C 05 C 06 Nihonbashi Chikusen Ibasen Saruya Kimono and fabrics Fans Toothpicks It’s easy to miss with An unlikely claim to its low-key façade fame, this is Japan’s and Japanese signage only surviving specialist (it’s just next to Eneos toothpick shop dating petrol station). But it’s back over 300 years. A worth tracking down: small, serene space on Chikusen, founded in 1842, is one of Tokyo’s a tiny Nihonbashi lane, It was 400 years ago that the store is packed with most revered kimono makers – both formal Ibasen came to life, first toothpick treasures, dealing in washi paper including a rainbow- creations in silks and lighter cotton summer and bamboo goods – bright selection of before evolving into fan- painted boxes containing yukata. Textile-lovers can also buy fabrics. makers. Today, it is famed handcrafted toothpicks. for its painstakingly 2-3 Nihonbashi Kofune-cho handcrafted creations / chikusen.co.jp / 9am-5pm, (it made the hotel’s closed Sat, Sun, public signature fan). The store holidays is filled with examples of fan artistry – from woodblock prints of Mount Fuji to delicate seasonal motifs. Custom-made fans – with the owner’s name engraved on the handle - can also be ordered.

1-12-5 Nihonbashi Ibasen Building 1F / 4-1 Muromachi / nihonbashi- Nihonbashi Kofune-cho / saruya.co.jp / 10am-6pm, ibasen.co.jp / 10am-6pm, closed Sun, public holidays closed Sun, public holidays E xperience Activities, classes E 02 E 03 and entertainment Edokiriko Shop Sushi Shin E 01 Hanashyo by Miyakawa Glass engraving at Mandarin Ozu Washi Oriental, Tokyo Washi paper-making In a serene white Edomae-style sushi gallery-style space, this store showcases Edo Ozu Washi has Kiriko, a traditional glass specialised in Japanese- engraving technique. style washi paper since Shelves display colourful 1653. The store brims glassware with intricate with colourful papers, geometric engravings alongside inks and - while visitors can also calligraphy tools, plus have a go at engraving a gallery with washi- their own guinomi sake related crafts. Best of The hotel’s 38th floor glass to take home in all? A fun workshop for restaurant – the Tokyo a private workshop visitors to handcraft sister of three Michelin- on-site. their own washi paper starred Sushi Miyakawa – one of several cultural in Hokkaido, north Japan. classes on offer. – offers a memorable sushi experience with stunning city views. Visitors sit at an intimate nine-seat cypress wood counter as master chefs expertly prepare Edomae-style sushi, using the freshest ingredients from Tokyo and Hokkaido.

Ozu Honkan Bldg, 3-6-2 3-6-5 Nihonbashi Honcho 38th floor, Mandarin Oriental, Nihonbashi Honcho / / edokiriko.co.jp / Tues-Fri Tokyo / lunch at 12pm, dinner ozuwashi.net / 10am-6pm, 10.30am-6pm, Sat-Sun at 6pm and 8pm, open daily. closed Sun 11.30am-5pm, closed Mon Reservations only. E 04 E 05 E 06 The Koomon Suimoukai The Spa at Cultural classes Martial arts Mandarin Oriental, Tokyo The scent of tatami. Those with samurai Relaxation Sliding paper screens. aspirations should The swish of a silk head to martial arts kimono. The Koomon, a school Suimoukai, small family-run cultural where visitors dress in institution, is a peaceful dark robes, pick up a enclave where Tokyo’s sword and step back in urban bustle is swapped time. Private classes in for a dose of traditional Iai – the ancient art of A restorative take on the Japanese harmony. Tea swiftly withdrawing a area’s heritage is Totally ceremony, calligraphy, sword and responding to Tokyo, ‘Five’ Journeys kimono dressing and attack – can be arranged from Nihonbashi, a origami are among with charismatic martial treatment offered in private English classes arts maestro Shoun the hotel’s serene 37th on offer. Uetsubara. floor spa. Five Japanese elements – green tea, pine, bamboo, rice hulls and plum – are fused with a calming foot ritual plus full body shiatsu-style massage. Not enough time? Try an express treatment (lasting only 20 to 30 minutes) while soaking up city views in the Spa Studio.

Buyo Bldg 2F, 3-8-16 Honcho Bldg 5F, 1-3-2 37th floor, Mandarin Oriental, Nihonbashi / koomon.com / Nihonbashi-Honcho / iai. Tokyo / 9am-10pm, open by appointment gr.jp / by appointment daily Facts and tips 04 08 from the concierge It is said that Japan’s Take a stroll along Edo first gift certificate Sakura Dori – a narrow 01 system was established lane between Mitsui at Ninben in 1830: Honkan and Nihombashi The Japanese symbols customers exchanged Mitsukoshi Main Store – for “Nihonbashi” 日本 thin silver plates for a springtime mecca lined 橋 mean either “Japan bonito fish flakes. with cherry blossom bridge”, an allusion to trees. its location at the heart 05 of old Tokyo – or “two 09 To view the city from bridges”, a possible the water, follow in the reference to the bridge’s For a taste – quite literally footsteps of early Edo extra wide form when – of old Tokyo, order a business pilgrims and first built. Nihonbashi Cocktail at take a 60- minute boat the hotel’s Mandarin Bar. tour from Nihonbashi to A heady mix of vodka, 02 the Sumida River. yuzu and grapefruit juice, the vivid blue-green There is a free shuttle 06 hues represent the river bus in the area called the and its willow trees while “Metro Link Nihonbashi”, For English and Chinese a twist of lime symbolises which is partly powered shopping assistance at the bridge. by used cooking oils Nihombashi Mitsukoshi donated from local Main Store, head to the restaurants. second floor of its Annex 10 building. One legendary business is real estate company Mitsui 03 07 Fudosan (its roots – like The Bank of Japan HQ, Yamamoto Noriten Mitsukoshi Department as seen from above at launched Japan’s first Store – lie in the 1673 the hotel, is shaped “drive through” service kimono store Echigoya). like a yen sign (円) – a in 1965, with customers It’s behind countless coincidence, as an older able, for a limited period, Nihonbashi developments yen symbol was in use to purchase seaweed forming part of a major when it was built in 1896. while sitting in their car. revitalisation project. A Spirit of Community

ihonbashi is not just great sense of pride in its heritage - about the bridge, the as reflected in an annual Nihonbashi history, the Mount Fuji Bridge clean-up which brings views. Perhaps its most together residents, young and old, to important characteristic wash the iconic structure. Nis something less tangible: a thriving Then there are its festivities: sense of community. from the lively street dancing and Since its earliest days – when drumming of October’s Nihonbashi- entrepreneurial merchants flocked into Kyobashi Festival to the springtime Nihonbashi more than 400 years ago – celebrations that go hand in hand with the community was brought together the arrival of the cherry blossoms. not only in work, but also in play. It’s perhaps no surprise that both kabuki theatre and joruri puppet plays came to life in Nihonbashi’s early years, as did printed picture books known as ezoshi and ukiyo-e wood block prints. Today, in spite of its location in the heart of a sprawling contemporary metropolis, its community spirit still thrives, from the smallest teashop owners to the largest department store corporations. In addition to countless collaborations (it’s not rare for a sweet shop to create a product with a nearby seaweed shop), there is a * Important Cultural Properties Nihonbashi Mount Fuji Bank of Japan* Nihonbashi’s iconic The bank’s 19th century Landmarks Mount Fuji views granite and brick are immortalised in building – an important Nihonbashi countless woodblock cultural property – prints (and can be seen confirms the area’s Bridge* from the hotel on clear status as a financial hub. Under the highway is days). the famed stone bridge, decorated auspiciously with statues of mythical kirin creatures. Fukutoku Shrine An immaculately restored Mitsukoshi* ancient shrine with 9th Japan’s oldest department century roots sitting store, its iconic flagship among Nihonbashi’s is just minutes from the Zero km mark skyscrapers. hotel. A metal plate in the road, under the bridge, marks the exact spot from where all distances are measured (there’s a more accessible Mitsui Honkan* replica on the pavement The regal stone HQ for Takashimaya* nearby). the leading industrialist A historic Nihonbashi Mitsui family – also department store, with home to Mitsui Memorial its roots in a Kyoto Museum on the 7th floor. kimono store dating back to 1831. Mandarin Oriental, Map Tokyo Edo Dori E 06

Nichigin Dori Mandarin Oriental, Tokyo is E 03 housed in Nihonbashi Mitsui Tower, a landmark structure and a celebrated symbol of F 06 regeneration in the old Tokyo neighbourhood. The easy grid- like structure of Nihonbashi’s main streets makes it an easy area for visitors to navigate. Bank of Japan

Mitsui Honkan

Mitsukoshimae Station (Tokyo Metro Ginza Line)

Nihonbashi Bridge Edo Sakura Dori Eitai Dori

Mitsukoshimae Station (Tokyo Metro Hanzomon Line)

COREDO Nihonbashi Station Nihonbashi (Tokyo Metro Tozai Line)

Nihonbashi Station Ichikokubashi Bridge (Tokyo Metro Ginza Line)

Chuo Dori Nishigashibashi Bridge

Nihonbashi Station Eitai Dori (Toei Asakusa Line) Nihombashi E 04 Takashimaya and Annex Kanda

Showa Dori

Shin-Nihonbashi Station

Ajisai Dori (JR Sobu line) COREDO E 02 Edo Dori Muromachi Terrace Yuito & E 01 Yuito Annex Chuo Dori

COREDO Muromachi 1

C 02 Fukutoku Shrine F 05 Fukutoku Garden

Ukiyo Shoji Bank of C 06 Japan

COREDO Mitsui Muromachi 2 Honkan

C 01 Nihombashi C 04 Mitsukoshi Main Store F 04 E 05 C 05 Muromachi Koji

C 03 F 02 F 03 COREDO Muromachi 3

Nishigashibashi Bridge

F 01 Nihonbashi Bridge

Edobashi Bridge Ginza F 01 C 01 E 01 Eitaro Sohonpo Nihombashi Ozu Washi Traditional sweets Mitsukoshi Main Store Washi paper-making Department store F 02 E 02 Yamamoto Noriten C 02 Edokiriko Shop Seaweed Kiya Hanashyo Knives Glass engraving F 03

Nihonbashi Kanmo C 03 E 03 Fish cakes Yamada Heiando Sushi Shin by Laquerware Miyakawa at Mandarin F 04 Oriental, Tokyo Nihombashi Funasa C 04 Edomae-style sushi Preserved food Nihonbashi Saruya Toothpicks E 04 F 05 The Koomon Ninben C 05 Cultural classes Dried bonito and dashi Chikusen E 05 Kimono and fabrics F 06 Suimoukai Nihonbashi Sembikiya Martial arts C 06 Premium fruit Ibasen E 06 Fans The Spa at Mandarin Oriental, Tokyo Relaxation Facebook Instagram 2-1-1 Nihonbashi Muromachi, Mandarin Oriental, Tokyo mo_tokyo Chuo-ku, Tokyo, 103-8328 Japan Tel: +81(3)3270-8800 Twitter mandarinoriental.com Tripadvisor mo_tokyo