Nihonbashi Guide Nihonbashi: the Starting Point of Tokyo
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Nihonbashi Guide Nihonbashi: The Starting Point of Tokyo t is where it all began. Edo – to set up businesses (from Nihonbashi – the neighbourhood kimono making to seaweed shops) the Mandarin Oriental, Tokyo calls on reclaimed land surrounded by a home – is not only a key financial network of canals. and commercial hub in a hyper- Fast-forward more than four Imodern capital. It is also the birthplace centuries and modern-day Nihonbashi of Tokyo. is no less lively. It was in 1604 that a shogun Today, the neat Kyoto-inspired named Ieyasu Tokugawa changed the layout is still lined with countless course of Japanese history by shifting generations-old family businesses the capital from west to east – where which sit alongside contemporary he promptly set about creating a skyscrapers, financial institutions and brand new city that would eventually historic department stores. become Tokyo. This guide showcases the very The first thing he did was build best of Nihonbashi. There are the Nihonbashi Bridge. The iconic structure unique culinary specialties that have – from which Mount Fuji could be seen been produced for centuries (Food); in the distance – was declared the the artisan craftsmen who create centre of Japan and the starting point exquisite handcrafted products of five key routes across the country (Culture); and a string of activities for (even today, seven national roads are visitors to try out (Experience). measured from here). Not to forget, of course, the The bridge was just the bridge: it may have been rebuilt over beginning. A steady flow of the centuries and be partially hidden entrepreneurial merchants from by the highway, but it’s still standing across the country swept into the and remains today a proud symbol of fast-growing city – then known as the very heart of Tokyo. Timeline 1603 Nihonbashi Bridge is constructed in wood as ordered by Shogun Tokugawa. 1604 The bridge is declared the starting point of five key routes across Japan. Canal networks grow, merchants set up shop and a fish market opens. 1896 Opening of Bank of Japan HQ, built in an iconic Neo-Baroque building designed by Tatsuno Kingo. 1911 Nihonbashi Bridge is built for the 19th time – and on this occasion, it’s made of stone. 1914 Mitsukoshi, Japan’s oldest department store, opens its flagship building. 1929 Mitsui Honkan, the historic HQ of the Mitsui family, is completed in Neoclassical style. 2005 Mandarin Oriental, Tokyo – with its Japanese design aesthetic, nature-inspired themes and expansive 38th floor lobby views – opens. 2014 Renovation of Fukutoku Shrine completed. F ood Culinary specialties F 02 F 03 from food stores Yamamoto Nihonbashi F 01 Noriten Kanmo Seaweed Fish cakes Eitaro Sohonpo Traditional sweets This store has sold nori seaweed – a vital ingredient in Japanese It began life in cuisine – for over Nihonbashi as a portable 160 years. Nirvana sweets stall inside the for seaweed-lovers, local fish market in 1857. Yamamoto Noriten is Today, the confectioners filled with an assortment sell a cornucopia of of seaweed – from One famed Nihonbashi traditional treats in signature orange tins treat is hanpen - a its shop and tearoom, of roasted nori to Hello feathery-light white fish including Nihonbashi Kitty themed yuzu- paste cake, often served mochi - sticky seaweed flecked snacks. Don’t in hot soupy dishes rice cakes – and, its miss white-gloved staff such as oden winter most famed signature preparing seaweed at a hotpots. Friendly staff creation, kintsuba, demonstration counter. in headscarves stand delicious flour-coated behind a glass counter rolls of sweet bean at Nihonbashi Kanmo – paste. experts since 1688 – and serve a steady stream of customers hanpen (delicious with a little fresh ginger) plus a colourful array of fish paste creations. 1-11-8 Nihonbashi Muromachi / hanpen.co.jp 1-2-5 Nihonbashi / eitaro. 1-6-3 Nihonbashi Muromachi / Mon-Fri 10am-6pm, Sat com / 9.30am-6pm, closed / yamamoto-noriten.co.jp / 10am-5pm, closed Sun, Sun, public holidays 9.30am-6pm, open daily public holidays F 04 F 05 F 06 Nihonbashi Ninben Nihonbashi Funasa Dried bonito and dashi Sembikiya Preserved food Premium fruit Ninben may be housed This tiny shop – just in the modern COREDO opposite Nihonbashi complex, but its roots Kanmo – celebrates date back to 1699. The another local invention: establishment pioneered tsukudani, preserved selling Japan’s first foods boiled down in packages of dried fish soy sauce (intensely flakes (katsuobushi) flavoursome, delicious – a vital ingredient in sprinkled on rice). The dashi stock, the basis shop, founded in 1862, of countless Japanese sells pretty paper- dishes. Visitors can There are perhaps few wrapped Edo-style watch staff expertly more perfect fruits in preserves, from conger shave fish flakes before the world than those eel and kombu seaweed sipping takeaway cups displayed in Sembikiya to clams. of hot broth from its (in the same building Nihonbashi Dashi Bar. as the hotel). Japan’s 1-12-13 Nihonbashi oldest fruit shop, it was Muromachi / ganso- opened by a samurai in tsukudani.com / Mon-Sat 1834 and showcases 10am-6pm, closed Sun, public holidays 11am-4pm an array of premium fruits from across Japan. A highlight? Perfectly spherical and aromatic muskmelons from sun- kissed Shizuoka. COREDO Muromachi 1, 1F, Nihonbashi Mitsui Tower 1F, 2-2-1 Nihonbashi Muromachi 2-1-2 Nihonbashi Muromachi / ninben.co.jp / 10am-8pm, / sembikiya.co.jp / 10am- open daily 7pm, open daily C ulture Artisan crafts and C 02 C 03 traditional goods Kiya Yamada Knives C 01 Heiando Lacquerware Nihombashi Another generations- Mitsukoshi old Nihonbashi gem in COREDO Muromachi 1, Main Store Kiya has been perfecting Department store the art of handcrafting exquisite kitchen knives since 1792. Friendly Two bronze lions mark staff guide visitors the Renaissance-style through a medley of entrance of Japan’s knives fusing technology oldest department store. with craftsmanship, With its roots in many with the name It’s all about exquisite 17th century kimono of its artisan creator lacquerware at Yamada shop Echigoya, it has engraved in Japanese Heiando (a purveyor of since evolved into a onto the blade. General choice for the Imperial major retail landmark. Japanese kitchen tools, Household). Founded in Highlights include its from steamers to ginger 1919, this small boutique, kimono department on graters, are also on sale. on an upper level of the 4th – and largest – COREDO Muromachi floor plus a basement COREDO Muromachi 1, 1F, 3, showcases high depachika food hall. 2-2-1 Nihonbashi Muromachi quality lacquerware in / kiya-hamono.co.jp / 10am- 8pm, open daily varying designs, from contemporary plates with abstract gold motifs to classic vermillion red soup bowls. 1-4-1 Nihonbashi Muromachi COREDO Muromachi 3, 2F, / mitsukoshi.mistore.jp / 1-5-5 Nihonbashi Muromachi 10am-7pm (hours may vary / heiando.com / 10am-9pm, by season), open daily open daily C 04 C 05 C 06 Nihonbashi Chikusen Ibasen Saruya Kimono and fabrics Fans Toothpicks It’s easy to miss with An unlikely claim to its low-key façade fame, this is Japan’s and Japanese signage only surviving specialist (it’s just next to Eneos toothpick shop dating petrol station). But it’s back over 300 years. A worth tracking down: small, serene space on Chikusen, founded in 1842, is one of Tokyo’s a tiny Nihonbashi lane, It was 400 years ago that the store is packed with most revered kimono makers – both formal Ibasen came to life, first toothpick treasures, dealing in washi paper including a rainbow- creations in silks and lighter cotton summer and bamboo goods – bright selection of before evolving into fan- painted boxes containing yukata. Textile-lovers can also buy fabrics. makers. Today, it is famed handcrafted toothpicks. for its painstakingly 2-3 Nihonbashi Kofune-cho handcrafted creations / chikusen.co.jp / 9am-5pm, (it made the hotel’s closed Sat, Sun, public signature fan). The store holidays is filled with examples of fan artistry – from woodblock prints of Mount Fuji to delicate seasonal motifs. Custom-made fans – with the owner’s name engraved on the handle - can also be ordered. 1-12-5 Nihonbashi Ibasen Building 1F / 4-1 Muromachi / nihonbashi- Nihonbashi Kofune-cho / saruya.co.jp / 10am-6pm, ibasen.co.jp / 10am-6pm, closed Sun, public holidays closed Sun, public holidays E xperience Activities, classes E 02 E 03 and entertainment Edokiriko Shop Sushi Shin E 01 Hanashyo by Miyakawa Glass engraving at Mandarin Ozu Washi Oriental, Tokyo Washi paper-making In a serene white Edomae-style sushi gallery-style space, this store showcases Edo Ozu Washi has Kiriko, a traditional glass specialised in Japanese- engraving technique. style washi paper since Shelves display colourful 1653. The store brims glassware with intricate with colourful papers, geometric engravings alongside inks and - while visitors can also calligraphy tools, plus have a go at engraving a gallery with washi- their own guinomi sake related crafts. Best of The hotel’s 38th floor glass to take home in all? A fun workshop for restaurant – the Tokyo a private workshop visitors to handcraft sister of three Michelin- on-site. their own washi paper starred Sushi Miyakawa – one of several cultural in Hokkaido, north Japan. classes on offer. – offers a memorable sushi experience with stunning city views. Visitors sit at an intimate nine-seat cypress wood counter as master chefs expertly prepare Edomae-style sushi, using the freshest ingredients from Tokyo and Hokkaido. Ozu Honkan Bldg, 3-6-2 3-6-5 Nihonbashi Honcho 38th floor, Mandarin Oriental, Nihonbashi Honcho / / edokiriko.co.jp / Tues-Fri Tokyo / lunch at 12pm, dinner ozuwashi.net / 10am-6pm, 10.30am-6pm, Sat-Sun at 6pm and 8pm, open daily. closed Sun 11.30am-5pm, closed Mon Reservations only.