Amazing Surfing Stories: Tales of Incredible Waves and Remarkable Riders Ebook

FREEAMAZING SURFING STORIES: TALES OF INCREDIBLE WAVES AND REMARKABLE RIDERS EBOOK

The tricks and twists of surfers amaze us, but below the surface lies a raft of surfing science as impressive as the feats performed on the waves. From highly skilled professional athletes to hobbyists after the rush of the open waves, surfing is enjoyed by people from all walks of life, from all over the planet. All you need is ocean but not alwaysa board of some kind, waves, and a lot of enthusiasm. While the tricks and twists of seasoned professionals amaze us, below the surface lies a raft of surfing science as impressive as the feats performed on the waves. Waves are formed in a number of ways, but in most cases they are Amazing Surfing Stories: Tales of Incredible Waves and Remarkable Riders by wind blowing over the surface of the ocean. As long as the wave travels forward slower than the speed of the wind, energy will be transferred from the wind to the wave. There are clever and complicated equations that can accurately determine the amount of energy in a wave, but to put it simply the bigger the wave, the bigger the power and there are few places on Earth where the waves are as big as they are at Nazare in Portugal. These monster Portuguese waves can reach epic proportions of over ft Waves generated by storms in the North Atlantic are focused by a deep, arrow-shaped canyon 16,ft m below the ocean's surface; these deep water waves then approach the shallow waters of the shore and start to climb up, meaning the waves at Nazare can get big. Real big! You sort of feel like you're back in the day of the gladiators when the world is watching and you're trying to survive and perform at the same time," he says. Imagine the energy in a wave that stands as tall as an eight-storey building. It is estimated some of the waves at Nazare hold enough energy to power over 30 million smartphone batteries. It could be the ideal location for wave energy farms to harvest all that untapped power. Tahiti is a volcanic island and its rapidly growing reef creates a steep break the point where the top of the wave starts to overtake the bottom causing it to spill over. Fresh water running down from Tahiti's mountainous region creates channels in the ocean floor where coral cannot grow. These channels funnel water from the shore back into the deeper ocean, creating clean waves and a fast current. Driving through a city can be painfully slow at times, particularly during rush hour. Found on the underside of a surfboard, Amazing Surfing Stories: Tales of Incredible Waves and Remarkable Riders are critical to the stability, feel and control of the board. Traditionally, fins were rigid and made of wood, but advances in plastics and Amazing Surfing Stories: Tales of Incredible Waves and Remarkable Riders materials have produced fins that allow for greater control while turning on a wave. Whales may be massive, but they are also graceful, and it is their ingenious flippers that help them stay so nimble. Their fins allow them to perform some impressive underwater acrobatics, especially in their tight, controlled turns. It also flexes from the base to the tip, like conventional fins do, creating more speed in the turn as the flexing fin snaps back into place. In an effort to create a more efficient wetsuit key for surfers who need to stay warm and agile on the wavesMIT engineers looked to the fur of beavers and sea otters for inspiration. These semi-aquatic mammals have remarkable fur that traps pockets of air to keep them warm and dry when diving under water. The MIT team fabricated fur-like rubbery pelts mimicking Amazing Surfing Stories: Tales of Incredible Waves and Remarkable Riders unique ability to help them understand and ultimately recreate the effect. To measure our changing oceans and the effects Amazing Surfing Stories: Tales of Incredible Waves and Remarkable Riders ocean life, scientists use research vessels, probes, sensors and satellites to collect a range of data from the open ocean, but it is much trickier nearer the shore where the waters can be rougher and much more challenging. All this may be about to change thanks to a neat piece of tech designed by a team of scientists and used by citizen science surfers. Smartfin is new technology almost identical to a traditional surf board fin, but with a hidden twist. The fin contains sensors that measure temperature and location for researchers to analyse. In the future, Smartfin hopes its sensors will be able to measure pH, salinity, dissolved oxygen and levels of chlorophyll. View image of One day all surfers might be using the Smartfin to help monitor the sea Credit: credit: Phil Bresnahan. Andrew Stern, founder of Smartfin and Associate Professor of Neurology at University of Rochester School of Medicine, says a Smartfin could help monitor the bleaching of coral reefs due and the populations of shellfish struggling with ocean acidification. Dolphins have been observed riding the crest of big waves towards the shore and heading back out to sea before it breaks; even going out of their way to repeatedly ride the bow waves of large ships and whales, often leaping into the air with what seems like enjoyment. So why would dolphins expend energy and waste time for what looks like little benefit? One theory is that they are playing - the behaviour looks to us like fun, it is done intentionally and voluntarily, and is repeated. Importantly, it is not performed when the animal is threatened or competing. Equally it could also be that using the power of the waves is a more energy efficient way of travelling than swimming underwater. The impact of entering the waves might help to dislodge parasites on the skin, Amazing Surfing Stories: Tales of Incredible Waves and Remarkable Riders the splashing noise it makes could also be a signal or communication to other dolphins in the area. There may also be free food when done alongside a fishing vessel, and when done in groups it may teach social bonding. The answer could be a combination of any or all these; however, we like to think that perhaps dolphins just love to surf as much as we do! Aerial surfing is a relatively modern and now common part of many competitions. It takes years to master and relies on the speed of the surfer as well as a light breeze over a vertical lip of at least a two-to-three-foot wave. Approach the lip of the wave at the right angle and it acts as a ramp to launch the surfer and their board into the air before landing back on the water. The faster the surfer is riding a wave, the higher in the air they'll go after launch, and the more time in the air there is to pull off an amazing feat - a backflip, a superman, a rodeo flip, or the spectacular sushi roll. Surfing is enjoyed by people from all walks of life and abilities; all that's needed is a willingness to give it a go and to love the ocean. Standing up on the board and riding those first waves will take practice, but given enough time and dedication you'll be surfing like a pro in no time. Jessi Miley- Dyer is World Surf League's Women's Commissioner and former championship competitor and her advice for anyone wanting to take up surfing is to find a surf school and get a few lessons. This media cannot be played on your device. Earth Menu. Oceans Surfing The incredible science of surfing and waves. Share on Facebook. Share on Twitter. Share on Reddit. Share on WhatsApp. Share by Email. Share on StumbleUpon. By Jeremy Coles 20 July Amazing Surfing Stories: Tales of Incredible Waves & Remarkable Riders by Alex Wade

Goodreads helps you keep track of books you want to read. Want to Read saving…. Want to Read Currently Reading Read. Other editions. Enlarge cover. Error rating book. Refresh and try again. Open Preview See a Problem? Details if other :. Thanks for telling us about the problem. Return to Book Page. This eclectic mix of surfing stories has something for everyone, from classic tales of monster waves and epic battles to stories of when life among the breakers goes wrong. There are accounts of death and disaster, as well as bravery and triumph. The bizarre and the extreme rub shoulders with perfect breaks and beautiful beaches. Be thrilled by legendary surfers, as well a This eclectic mix of surfing stories has something for everyone, from classic tales of monster waves and epic battles to stories of when life among the breakers goes wrong. Be thrilled by legendary surfers, as well as learning about local heroes who never made the headlines. Each compelling tale has been chosen to Amazing Surfing Stories: Tales of Incredible Waves and Remarkable Riders the fire Amazing Surfing Stories: Tales of Incredible Waves and Remarkable Riders armchair surfers and hardcore wave-riders alike, and many are illustrated with colour photographs. Get A Copy. Hardcoverpages. Published October 28th by Fernhurst Books first published September 14th More Details Other Editions 9. Friend Reviews. To see what your friends thought of this book, please sign up. To ask other readers questions about Amazing Surfing Storiesplease sign up. Be the first to ask a question about Amazing Surfing Stories. Lists with This Book. This book is not yet featured on Listopia. Community Reviews. Showing Average rating 3. Rating details. All Languages. More filters. Sort order. Todd rated it really liked it Nov 24, Leigh J rated it liked it Apr 04, Catherine Van eyken rated it liked it Feb 18, Jonathan Noel rated it liked it Jan 26, Carolina Albuquerque rated it it was amazing Jun 19, S rated it liked it Feb 06, Esme rated it liked it Jul 01, Emmanuel rated it really liked it Jul 08, Larry larson rated it it was amazing Jun 12, James rated it really liked it Jul 08, Rita Varga rated it it was amazing Apr 10, Richie rated it really liked it May 15, David Flanagan rated it it was amazing Oct 06, Ray Ballard rated it liked it Mar 14, Matthew J Tamlyn rated it really liked it Sep 13, Steven Amazing Surfing Stories: Tales of Incredible Waves and Remarkable Riders M Kam rated it it was amazing Feb 16, Jay Wilson is currently reading it Jan 02, Breanna marked it as to-read Jan 30, Christine added it Jul 07, Emily marked it as to-read Nov 20, Alex is currently reading it Mar 20, Legend marked it as to-read Aug 19, Olivia marked it as to-read Aug 28, Zac added it Oct 05, Helen Roberts marked it as to- read Oct 27, Max Souffez marked it as to-read Jan 20, Frank marked it as to-read Mar 12, Gillian Mason marked it as to-read Nov 26, Tom Watson added it Sep 19, Carlos Danilo marked it as to-read May 30, Iago Pastoriza Pallares marked it as to-read Jan 23, Ursula added it May 21, Steve marked it as to-read Oct 12, There are no discussion topics on this book yet. Readers also enjoyed. About Alex Wade. Alex Wade. Alex Wade was born in Chiswick, London in Alex's principal interests as a writer are law, sport especially football, surfing and boxingpoker Alex played, while a columnist for Flush magazine, in poker tournaments around the world and travel, as well Alex Wade was born in Chiswick, London in Alex's principal interests as a writer are law, sport especially football, surfing and boxingpoker Alex played, while a columnist for Flush magazine, in poker tournaments around the world and travel, as well as general features, football match reports for The Game, the acclaimed supplement of The Times and book reviews for The Times Books and Times Literary Supplement section. Subsequently Alex's unreconstructed tendencies got the better of him. His life went off the rails but boxing played a large part in his rehabilitation. This story is chronicled in Wrecking Machine, a Sunday Times sports book of the week "superb", "irresistible" but also one that saw Amazing Surfing Stories: Tales of Incredible Waves and Remarkable Riders book reviewer characterise it as "drivel" written by "a sexist womaniser who likes a drink or six". Best to buy it and make your own mind up. SinceAlex has worked mainly as a writer. He has also enjoyed stints as a licensed bookmaker and a sports rights consultant, selling the rights to key properties such as the FA Premier League in territories as diverse as Albania, Georgia and Azerbaijan. Alex has travelled extensively. His two sons, Harry and Elliot, are keen surfers, and Alex continues to surf, box and play football despite surgery on his neck in and any number of sports injuries from repeated shoulder dislocations Amazing Surfing Stories: Tales of Incredible Waves and Remarkable Riders broken bones and torn ligaments. For many years Alex worked as a night lawyer for national newspapers including The Times, Independent and Sun. Alex was proud to serve on the committee of Walcot Amateur Boxing Club in Swindon and is pleased to note that Wrecking Machine is, apparently, the most popular book in at least one of Her Majesty's institutions. Books by Alex Wade. Escape the Present with These 24 Historical Romances. You know the saying: There's no time like the present In that case, we can't Read more Trivia About Amazing Surfing S No trivia or quizzes yet. Welcome back. Just a moment while we sign you in to your Goodreads account. Here's why you should winter surf in Nova Scotia |

Adam Fincham is trying to make waves with a food container full of agave and an avocado. Internal waves, specifically—the kind that exist in stratified fluid. A chef is in the kitchen preparing salmon grain bowls for the assemblage of pro surfers hanging around outside, but Fincham is intent Amazing Surfing Stories: Tales of Incredible Waves and Remarkable Riders his own concoction. Just like the ocean. Before Adam Fincham, lead engineer at the Kelly Slater Surf Ranch, was exposed to wave tanks in Europe, he thought waves were "the most bullshit thing ever," he says. He takes what he calls his wave generator—the avocado—and drops it gently into the container. Look from the side, he urges me. I crouch down and stare into the agave. Sure enough, in the layer of thick brown syrup, a tiny wave peels off the side of the container and rolls toward the other end of the container. Back and forth, back and forth. Fincham appears to delight in this, but his role at the Surf Ranch—where the inaugural Surf Ranch Pro competition begins tomorrow—is much bigger than kitchen science experiments. Several years ago, Fincham was tasked with creating the perfect wave. Not good, not great, perfect. The control tower, an elevated shack on the west side of the Surf Ranch, is where wave operators push buttons and summon waves on demand—like Uber, but for waves. Fincham, 52, was born in England and raised in Jamaica. He was a tinkerer from an early age. Growing up in the Carribean, he says, meant he often made his own gadgets, from GI Joe accessories to automotive parts, rather than purchasing them. His father, a biochemistry teacher, eventually ended up relocating from Jamaica to Southern California to teach at USC. Fincham followed him there, dropping his physics studies at the University of the West Indies and picking up aerospace engineering at USC in But even then, he was still more interested in geophysical turbulence than he was in waves. In the field of turbulence, much remains unsolved; Fincham saw this as a type of job security. After earning his PhD in geophysical fluid dynamics inhe took off for France, where he worked at the National Center for Scientific Research. It was through a program called Hydralaba network of European research institutions with experimental hydraulic systems, that Fincham says he began to shed his snobbery against waves. He started conducting experiments on the Coriolis, the largest rotating water tank in the world. In Hannover, Germany, he worked on a 1,foot-long wave tank, one that generated waves 8 feet high. He conducted research on a wave tank in Barcelona, Spain, and on a wave flume Amazing Surfing Stories: Tales of Incredible Waves and Remarkable Riders Delft, Holland. Half a dozen pro surfers are there for practice runs that day, including Lakey Peterson, Carissa Moore, Coco Ho, Kolohe Andino, Griffin Colapinto, and Caroline Marks, who at 16 is the youngest female surfer ever to qualify for the championship tour. Every 20 minutes or so, Fincham stands up and stares at the lagoon, when a wave is peeling toward us. To the untrained eye, the wave looks, well, perfect: a fast-moving, minute-long wave about 6 feet high, with plenty of swell for well-executed cutbacks and a generous barrel, the cylindrical part of the wave that some surfers spend their whole lives trying to get lost in. Fincham is displeased with something, though. He makes a phone call. Then he resumes his story. Part of the draw of the wave at the Surf Ranch is this barrel, the cylindrical part of a surface wave that some surfers spend their whole lives trying to get lost in. When Slater first proposed the idea to the engineers at USC, he had envisioned a circular wave pool. They would attempt to make the Amazing Surfing Stories: Tales of Incredible Waves and Remarkable Riders. Fincham would take the lead on the Amazing Surfing Stories: Tales of Incredible Waves and Remarkable Riders. Each surf pro gets eight runs during a practice session at the Surf Ranch, before taking a break. Lakey Peterson, the No. Video by Lauren Goode. From until they were married to that idea. Patent filings from that time show a circular pool with a fixed outer wall and a rotating inner wall equipped with one or more hydrofoils—winglike structures that move through the water to create movement and lift. The team constructed a circular prototype tank in a giant warehouse in Culver City. But from the start, it was a challenge, Fincham says. At some point, they determined that a linear wave pool would be easier, cheaper, and, importantly, quicker to build. The Kelly Slater Wave Co. According to a report in BloombergSlater chose Lemoore, a small city with a population of around 25, primarily because it was inexpensive. The fact that two lakes already existed on the property also made it appealing. By the first version of the wave pool was operational. Inafter an extensive overhaul, Surf Ranch 2. It means draining the entire lagoon, changing the contour of the bottom, fixing large pieces of equipment. The Surf Ranch as it exists now, the 2. This prototype is a giant, rectangular, freshwater lagoon, yards long. Directly next to the lagoon is another freshwater lake, one that is still used for wakeboarding and paddleboarding. The area is surrounded by dozens of Amazing Surfing Stories: Tales of Incredible Waves and Remarkable Riders, some of them planted to create a buffer for wind, since wind affects the formation of the wave. Framed photos of Slater and a few of his trophies serve as decor. Slater keeps a small quiver here too, in an open locker with his name on it. Wave height at the Surf Ranch averages around 6 feet, the size used by pros like Carissa Moore. For beginners the wave operators can dial it down to a 3-foot "intermediate" curls. The lagoon is filled with 15 million gallons of UV-and-chlorine- treated water. Alongside it, a ton hydrofoil—covered by tarps—runs along a fence, like a locomotive. The hydrofoil is pulled by cables, which spool out of two winch drums on either side of the lagoon. Even the lifeguards seem to be a part of the well-oiled machinery. This is all in preparation for the upcoming Surf Ranch Pro event. These calls are received in the control tower, an elevated shack over on the west side of the lagoon. A lifeguard trained in big-wave surfing rescue monitors the lagoon alongside Bowline, the Ranch's unofficial mascot. More than 50 types of wave can be produced at the push of a button. Up in the control tower, this Uberfication of surfing becomes even more apparent. Upon receiving the command from one of the lifeguards, a wave operator named Matt goes to a drop-down menu on the screen of a Siemens-made control system and selects a wave profile. He pushes a Amazing Surfing Stories: Tales of Incredible Waves and Remarkable Riders button, and, just like that, launches a wave. Griffin Colapinto grew up in San Clemente, California, known for its many consistent surf breaks. Here at the Surf Ranch, he experiences a new definition of "consistent. If you catch a bit of an edge or a rail, this wave is just moving no matter what. The wave also wears surfers out. Carissa Moore, a three-time world champ, says she stressed her hamstring abductor at the ranch. A lifeguard tells me that other injuries, like concussions, have occurred, and that the guard staff require surfers to use hand signals in the pool, so they can stay alert to more serious situations. You use your legs so much more. You have to take breaks. Three-time world champion Carissa Moore says she experienced a minor injury at the Surf Ranch due to the stress it puts on the body. Wave pools are not new. Distance to ocean aside, you could say the same of Slater. Big Surf is still open for business. Disney has a wave pool, too, at its water theme park in Lake Buena Vista, Florida. But over the past decade or so, a series of wave pools has popped up see what I did there that are Amazing Surfing Stories: Tales of Incredible Waves and Remarkable Riders better waves. These are designed for surfing. NLanda surf park that opened in Austin inis open to the public. For NLand this equates to around 24 waves an hour. But making waves is also power-intensive. Coors says the energy it takes to create a second wave is equivalent to 10 V6 engines running for the same amount of time. Artificial waves can be generated in a variety of ways: with pistons, with air chambers, with paddles, with water itself, dropped or skimmed along a body of water to create surface waves. Another way of doing it is with hydrofoils, which is what Slater and Fincham are using. The contouring of the bottom of the lagoon is key too, since that impacts how the waves will shape up. NLand has been using a hydrofoil system, as well. Basically, what makes the Slater wave so special? Fincham and the World Surf League hate sharing these details. Control the water, control the wave. The bigger concern is losing water with such spray: Fincham says that on a hot day like this one, a quarter of a million gallons of water can evaporate from the lagoon. The splashing makes that worse. The perfect wave, it turns out, is a constant work in progress, an infinite loop of maintenance. Some people have expressed environmental concerns, saying that if artificial waves usurp popular surf spots, it could deprioritize the resources and attention being given to the protection of coastal breaks.

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