Introduction to Sharpening & Honing Carving Chisels by Larry Grohovez

Total Page:16

File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb

Introduction to Sharpening & Honing Carving Chisels by Larry Grohovez Introduction to Sharpening & Honing Carving Chisels By Larry Grohovez Currently Secretary of the Western Australian Woodcarvers Guild, and member of the Fine Woodwork Association, Larry has an extensive background in car entry, joinery and machinery sho s, as well as house construction and civil engineering. Larry has s ent the ast ten years running his own s ecialist woodcraft and woodcarving business, and now brings us the first article in a five art series revealing his tried and tested shar ening method which can be used to shar ening the Arbortech Power Chisel. There is a lot of misunderstanding in regard to shar ening carving chisels, mainly due to the vast array of stone and systems available, many which cross styles. There is a difference in the measurement scale between United States and Ja anese manufacturers in grit sizes. Shar tools will make your work easier and reduce or eliminate the need to sand. This series of articles deci her and arrange this information into cross-reference tables and gra hs to sim lify this information. Pictures and diagrams will assist in de-mystifying the art of shar ening your chisels. The following three stages are robably the most im ortant things to remember when shar ening. Note: If your edge is in reasonable condition, you can ski Ste No. 1, but Ste s 2 - . are essential. A common error made by most inex erienced shar eners is to go from a coarse stone to a very fine stone and miss an intermediate stone, that is - they go from Ste 1 to Ste and miss out on Ste 2. Shar ening can be com ared to sand a ering in that you must sand the timber with coarse, then medium and then fine sand a er. Difference etween Sharpening and Honing Shar ening is to regrind the bevel giving you a new edge, therefore removing any chi s or im erfections in the edge. It will also have the effect of straightening u the edge if it has worn unevenly. /oning is to stro the bevel to remove fine scratches that affect the edge and to remove the burr or fine metal tailings that remain after shar ening. It is a good work habit to have a leather stro next to you while you carve so you can regularly hone your bevel for a second to touch u the edge. A shar edge will not blunt so 0uickly. When to sharpen or hone 1ou should shar en your chisel when2- • Edge is chi ed • tool tears or crushes wood fibres • Too develo s a rounded bevel • Tool has to be ushed with force to cut /oning chisels should be done2- • Immediately after shar ening • When unable to slice thin shavings • Every 15 minutes or so during use as a good work ractice Chisel ictured through a microsco e magnified 50x. It shows the scratches on bevel from a 800 grit stone. A scratchy edge to either the bevel or inner canal will result in a jagged edge. A jagged edge will dull 0uickly. This tool re0uires honing to remove burrs and saw tooth edge. N82 8lack triangle in bottom of icture is a in oint. There are a large variety of stones available in the market lace. They fall under two ty es, hand stones or electric s inning stones. Of these there are many ty es of materials using both wet or dry formats. Generally, electric stones turn at a faster rate and therefore removal metal 0uicker so a coolant as well as a lubricant should be considered. Listed below is a reference table of stone ty es, their nature and recommended lubricants. LIST OF STONE T1PES - RECOMMENDED LU8RICANTS Type Material Origin Lu ricant Hardness Arkansas Natural Stone Natural Oil/Water /ard (Washita) Ja anese Aluminium Man Water Soft Water Oxide made Aluminium Man Indian Oil /ard Oxide made Ruby/Aluminium Man Ruby Water /ard Oxide made Ceramic Clay Natural Dry /ard Wheel Aluminium Man Dry /ard ty e Oxide made Man DMT* Diamond Water /ard made Man Ezela * Diamond Dry /ard made *Registered Trade Brand /intA • Traditional Carborundum stones are in fact India stones • As stones fill with metal articles they should be washed occasionally. • Soft stones wear down 0uickly but are easy to flatten again. • Some stones are available in coarse/fine combinations. • Store stones in a dust free container. .apan Ru er- Grit Ar)ansas DMT EZELA, Ceramic India Ru y Wheels Water ised .5 Coarse 45 45 50 50 80 80 Medium 100 Coarse 120 120 180 Coarse C240 Medium Coarse Fine D 220 Medium Coarse 240 2E0 Medium 280 Fine Fery .20 Fine .25 Coarse Fine .50 Washita 425 C800 500 Soft C1000 500 Fine Fine C1200 D Fine D Fine E00 /ard Medium C2000 800 900 8lack Fine 1000 C4000 Su er Ultra 1200 D Fine Fine Fine 1500 C5000 2200 C8000 Note2 The descri tion used to define the grits is that used by the res ective manufacturer, so the same grit stone may have a different name. For exam le D Fine (1200) is also known as Ultra fine and Su er fine by different manufacturers. There is a difference in the way the Ja anese and USA systems grade the grit sizes of their stones. This is the cause of much confusion. As a rule if you are unsure, the Ja anese tend to use very high numbers whereas the USA use numbers under 900. Listed below is a com arison table. Note2 The grits do not increase incrementally. 0SA .apanese 100 150 180 240 240 280 280 .50 .20 500 .50 500 500 1000 500 1200 E00 2000 900 4000 1200 5000 1500 5000 2200 8000 /intA • Remember to shar en from coarse to medium to fine to get consistent results. • Electric drive wheels turn faster so the cutting action seems to be a little finer. A coarse grit will cut slightly finer than the same grit in a handstone. Systems Available The systems of stones can be grou ed into four categories2 • /and stones • 8ench grinder wheel ty e (high s eed/dry) • 8ench grinder wheel ty e (slow/water) • Flat wheel ty e (water) Type Advantages Disadvantages 1. Hand Stone • Cheap • Slow • Combinations in • Hard to one stone maintain • Portable bevel • Oil or water 2. Bench Grinder • Fast • Easily over (fast) • Common grind bevel • Useful for other • Hollow grind tools bevel • Easily overheat tool • No fine stone available 3. Bench Grinder • Cannot • Patience (slow/water) overheat tool required • Good control • Expensive • Not easily portable 4. Flat Wheel • Water or dry • Expensive • Flat grind to • Not easily bevel portable • Perfect speed • Good visibility • Interchangeable wheels For shar ening I would recommend systems 1, . - 4. System 2 is too harsh on the tools and it is very easy to over grind your chisel. I s oke about the differences between shar ening and honing and last month, gave detailed descri tions on stone and the various ty es, brands and grades on the market. This month, IHll discuss honing which is robably the most im ortant and misunderstood art of the whole shar ening rocess. /oning is the last stage of the shar ening rocess. It is the fine shar ening which olishes the bevel. This removes the scratches left by the coarser grits and also removes the burr or tailings on the edge. A s in-off advantage of honing is that a olished bevel leaves a smooth surface as timber has the ability to burnish. This also seals the end grain slightly letting the timber refract more light and therefore finishes will not a ear to be so dull. /oning can be achieved by two methods2- • a owered wheel • a hand stro In both methods, the honing wheel or stro needs to be charged with a rouge or com ound. It is this com ound that olishes the metal. There are different com ounds that cut or olish at different rates and these are listed in the table below. Types of Honing Wheels T1,E GRADE COM,O0ND Leather Medium Rouge Felt /ard or Medium Rouge Pa er Fine Rouge None (Im regnated in Rubber Coarse to Extra Fine Wheel) Scotchbrite Coarse None • /oning wheels do not olish the bevel, they are the holder of the com ound.It is the com ound that olishes the metal. • /oning on a ower wheel will still generate heat so be careful not to overheat tool edge. /oning Com ounds /oning com ounds are waxed based materials that contain different abrasives.It is the abrasive that removes metal. Some com ounds contain a coarse fast cutting abrasive while others have fine abrasives that olish rather than cut. /oning where you olish rather than fast cut is also known as buffing. Manufacturers use a colour code for their com ounds and while they all vary a little in their formulate they do not have com arable cuttings grits. There are three basic grou ings of honing com ounds 2 FAST CUT, REMOFE COARSE A. A8RASIFE CUT SCRATC/ES MEDIUM CUT/FIRST B. GOOD ALL ROUNDER STAGE POLIS/ C. FINE POLIS/ 8UFFING AND POLIS/ING • Never mix different com ounds on one wheel as they melt you will have neither one nor the other. • A ly a small amount of com ound often rather than a lot at once, a second on a fast s inning wheel is ade0uate. COM,O0ND CHART COLO0R T1,E ACTION 8lack (Grey) A Fastest Abrasive cutter Green (Dark) A 8est All rounder, fast White 8 Good all rounder, medium 8rown Rouge (Tro ili) 8 Slower Cut 8lue rouge C Polisher, Fery slow cut Green (Light) C Polish Only When honing on a bench grinder ty e wheel, it is im ortant to note that the direction of the wheel must be reversed.
Recommended publications
  • Hand Saws Hand Saws Have Evolved to fill Many Niches and Cutting Styles
    Source: https://www.garagetooladvisor.com/hand-tools/different-types-of-saws-and-their-uses/ Hand Saws Hand saws have evolved to fill many niches and cutting styles. Some saws are general purpose tools, such as the traditional hand saw, while others were designed for specific applications, such as the keyhole saw. No tool collection is complete without at least one of each of these, while practical craftsmen may only purchase the tools which fit their individual usage patterns, such as framing or trim. Back Saw A back saw is a relatively short saw with a narrow blade that is reinforced along the upper edge, giving it the name. Back saws are commonly used with miter boxes and in other applications which require a consistently fine, straight cut. Back saws may also be called miter saws or tenon saws, depending on saw design, intended use, and region. Bow Saw Another type of crosscut saw, the bow saw is more at home outdoors than inside. It uses a relatively long blade with numerous crosscut teeth designed to remove material while pushing and pulling. Bow saws are used for trimming trees, pruning, and cutting logs, but may be used for other rough cuts as well. Coping Saw With a thin, narrow blade, the coping saw is ideal for trim work, scrolling, and any other cutting which requires precision and intricate cuts. Coping saws can be used to cut a wide variety of materials, and can be found in the toolkits of everyone from carpenters and plumbers to toy and furniture makers. Crosscut Saw Designed specifically for rough cutting wood, a crosscut saw has a comparatively thick blade, with large, beveled teeth.
    [Show full text]
  • Grinding Your Own Lathe Tools
    WEAR YOUR SAFETY GLASSES FORESIGHT IS BETTER THAN NO SIGHT READ INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE OPERATING Grinding Your Own Left Hand Right Hand Boring Tool Cutting Tool Cutting Tool Lathe Tools As with any machining operation, grinding requires the Dressing your grinding wheel is a part of maintaining the utmost attention to “Eye Protection.” Be sure to use it when bench grinder. Grinding wheels should be considered cutting attempting the following instructions. tools and have to be sharpened. A wheel dresser sharpens Joe Martin relates a story about learning to grind tools. “My by “breaking off” the outer layer of abrasive grit from the first experience in metal cutting was in high school. The wheel with star shaped rotating cutters which also have to teacher gave us a 1/4" square tool blank and then showed be replaced from time to time. This leaves the cutting edges us how to make a right hand cutting tool bit out of it in of the grit sharp and clean. a couple of minutes. I watched closely, made mine in ten A sharp wheel will cut quickly with a “hissing” sound and minutes or so, and went on to learn enough in one year to with very little heat by comparison to a dull wheel. A dull always make what I needed. I wasn’t the best in the class, wheel produces a “rapping” sound created by a “loaded just a little above average, but it seemed the below average up” area on the cutting surface. In a way, you can compare students were still grinding on a tool bit three months into the what happens to grinding wheels to a piece of sandpaper course.
    [Show full text]
  • Abrasive Wheel Grinder Abrasive Wheels and Grinding Machines Come in Many Styles, Sizes, and Designs
    Abrasive wheel grinder Abrasive wheels and grinding machines come in many styles, sizes, and designs. Both bench-style and pedestal (stand) grinders are commonly found in many industries. These grinders often have either two abrasive wheels, or one abrasive wheel and one special-purpose wheel such as a wire brush, buffing wheel, or sandstone wheel. These types of grinders normally come with the manufacturer’s safety guard covering most of the wheel, including the spindle end, nut, and flange DEWALT Industrial Tool Co. projection. These guards must be strong enough to withstand the effects of a bursting wheel. In addi- tion, a tool/work rest and transparent shields are often provided. Hazard Bench-style and pedestal grinders create special safety problems due to the potential of the abrasive wheel shattering; exposed rotating wheel, flange, and spindle end; and a naturally occurring nip point that is created by the tool/work rest. This is in addition to such concerns as flying fragments, sparks, air contaminants, etc. Cutting, polishing, and wire buffing wheels can create many of the same hazards. Grinding machines are powerful and are designed Exposed spindle end, flange, and nut. No tool/workrest. to operate at very high speeds. If a grinding wheel shatters while in use, the fragments can travel at more than 300 miles per hour. In addition, the wheels found on these machines (abrasive, polishing, wire, etc.) often rotate at several thousand rpms. The potential for serious injury from shooting fragments and the rotating wheel assemblies (including the flange, spindle end, and nut) is great. To ensure that grinding wheels are safely used in your work- place, know the hazards and how to control them.
    [Show full text]
  • Place the Gouge in the Third Station of the Sharpening Guide and Lay the Side of the Gouge Against the Left Wall of the Station (Figure 24-12)
    Figure 24-14.Position the roundnose chisel, Figure 24-13.Set the parting tool’s side in bevel up in the fourth station. Tighten the the first station. knob. Place the gouge in the third station of the sharpening guide and lay the side of the gouge against the left wall of the station (Figure 24-12). Rotate the gouge until its center touches the abrasive. With the machine "OFF" practice rotating the gouge, first clockwise from the center to the edge, and then counterclockwise from the center of the gouge to the edge. You should notice while rotating the gouge that in order to keep the bevel in contact with the abrasive, you must slide the gouge forward on the station as the bevel is ground from the center to each edge. After you get the feel of this grinding motion, be sure the gouge is not touching the abrasive and the speed dial is set to "Slow" (if you are using the Mark V), then turn on the machine. Gently slide the gouge against the wall of the station and into the moving abrasive. Start rotating the gouge, like you practiced. Repeat this several times. Grind away only enough metal to remove any damage to the cut-ting edge and create a slight burr. If the gouge is being ground for scraping, it is ready to use (the burr is sharp and scrapes very well). If the gouge is being ground for shearing or cutting, it will need to be honed to a razor sharp edge. Grinding the Parting Tool— The parting tool has a bevel ground on both the top and bottom edges.
    [Show full text]
  • Twice As Sharp® Operators Manual
    OPERATORS MANUAL TWICE AS SHARP® Scissors Sharpening System Customer service 1-800-888-3832 Professionally Sharpen Scissors and Shears manufactured by WOLFF INDUSTRIES, Inc. BACKGROUND INFORMATION ON LEE WOLFF Inventor of Twice as Sharp® 1930 - 1996 In 1957 Lee Wolff started a sewing machine sales and service business. Fabrics and a complete line of sewing needs were added in 1963, and the number of employees grew to 25 to handle the volume. During those years, Lee did a great deal of scissors sharpening and repair and made im- portant modifications on the available scissors sharpening equipment. In 1971 Lee and Mary Wolff became the first major importer and distributor of plastic handled scissors in the United States. They started to manufacture sewing scissors in 1973 under the trade name of KNIP. A U.S. patent was granted on the KNIP. The scissors factory was sold to American Scissors Corp. in 1980 and moved to the south. Lee set up the factory and innovated many new manufacturing processes. The July 1983 Consumers Reports rates the American Scissors designed and produced by Lee Wolff as a best buy. He also designed a full line of unique plastic handled scissors with interchangeable parts. Lee worked on perfecting the process of scissors sharpening for many years. It is necessary to accurately control the cutting angles, reduce burr formation during sharpening, and do deburring and micro-sharpening as a final process. This method produces scissors that are normally twice as sharp, hence the name Twice as Sharp® scissors sharpener. A United States patent has been granted as well as several foreign patents.
    [Show full text]
  • Tuning Metal Bench Planes for the Rest of Us by Chris Black
    Tuning Metal Bench Planes for the Rest of Us By Chris Black It’s an unfortunate reality that most metal bench planes don’t work to their full potential right out of the box, and that a certain amount of tuning needs to be done by the end user. With apologies to all engineer/machinist woodworkers, I will endeavor to explain how to tune a metal bench plane without involving a machine shop or taking up vast amounts of your valuable woodworking time or money. I’ll leave out the small stuff like after market blades and accessories. This is by no means the final word on this subject, but maybe you can pick up a thing or two from my many years of making a living with these wonderful tools. If you find my methods rudimentary or crude, let me paraphrase Jim Krenov who said at some point the engineer and artisan must part ways. SHARPEN THE IRON If there’s a given principle in woodworking, it must be sharp tools. If your steel isn’t keen, not much happens. Learn to sharpen and everything else in woodworking will begin to fall into place. 80% of all plane problems can be fixed by getting your irons as sharp as possible. There’s a ton of information about sharpening out there, but stick with the basics and worry about other stuff like cambered edges and different bevel angles later. I recommend Thomas Lie-Nielsen’s book Complete Illustrated Guide to Sharpening (202299), Leonard Lee’s Complete Guide to Sharpening (200831), or Jim Kingshott’s video Sharpening the Professional Way (221508).
    [Show full text]
  • 15 Degree Sharpening Module for Use on Chef’Schoice® Model 2100 Commercial Sharpener
    INSTRUCTIONS 15 Degree Sharpening Module for use on Chef’sChoice® Model 2100 Commercial Sharpener Module shown inserted in Model 2100 Sharpener. (Sharpener not included). Read these instructions before use. It is essential that you follow these instructions to achieve optimum results. © 2011 EdgeCraft Corp. INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE OF 15° SHARPENING MODULE EdgeCraft offers the 15° detachable sharpening module designed specially to place a factory quality edge on Japanese, Asian style knives and all other 15° knives. It can be used inter- changeably on the Model 2100 Sharpener with the standard 20° module designed for the European/American style blades and all other 20° knives. The 15° module is identical in size to the 20° module and it can be removed or installed on the guide rails of the Model 2100 as described in the Model 2100 manual. The 15° Japanese/Asian module can be used for either straight edge or serrated edges, how-ever the 20° European/American module is recommended for sharpening serrated blades because serrated blades are predominantly manufactured with 20° edge angles to provide greater support for the individual serrations. While Asian style knives have historically been sharpened at about 15 degrees at the factory and European/American style knives have been made with 20 degree edges, very recently leading German factories have introduced European style knives edged at 15°. Remove the standard 20° European/American module from the 2100 sharpener and install the 15° Japanese/Asian module as described in the Model 2100 Instruction Manual pages 11-12. Understanding THE DIFFERENCE – EUROPEAN/AMERICAN AND Japanese/ASIAN STYLE KNIVES In general you will find that Euro/American blades shown in Figure 1 are sturdier than the more delicate and thinner contemporary Asian blades as illustrated below.
    [Show full text]
  • How Scroll Saw Blades Are Made There Are Three Ways We Manufacture Scroll Saw Blades
    lson has been a leading manufacturer of scroll saw blades for more than 80 years, offering a full Oline of superior quality blades to satisfy almost every scrolling application. Olson blades are for use with scroll/jig saw machines sold by Delta, DeWalt, Dremel, Skil, Rockwell, Pro-Tech, Powermatic, RB Industries, Hegner, Sakura, Shopsmith, Excalibur, Rexon, Ryobi, Sears Craftsman, and Makita. (virtually all domestic and imported scroll saws). They can also be used in hand held fret and jewelers saw frames. The Olson Saw Co. has introduced many innovative blades, including: PGT® (Precision Ground Tooth) Scroll Saw Blades in skip and new double tooth styles with reverse teeth are simply the finest scroll saw blades there are! Considered among experts as “the best blade available”, PGT® blades are made with an exclusive grinding process that forms teeth in hardened steel. The blades are double ground to ensure that every edge of the tooth (face, tip, and gullet) is as sharp as possible. Crown Tooth™ Blades are a recent edition to the line. They have a unique tooth design that cuts on both the up and down stroke. Because of this two-way cutting action, Crown Tooth blades allow for cutting with more control while leaving a smooth, splinter-free finish. Also, they can be turned over for cutting with a fresh set of teeth. They are also excellent for cutting many kinds of plastics. Reverse Skip Tooth Blades with special reverse teeth on the lower end of the blade for a smooth, splinter-free finish on the bottom surface. Olson is continually improving and expanding its blade selection.
    [Show full text]
  • English: Sharpening STIHL Saw Chains
    0457-181-0121_02.book Seite -1 Donnerstag, 13. Dezember 2012 11:50 11 STIH) Sharpening STIHL Saw Chains 2012-10 0457-181-0121_02.book Seite 0 Donnerstag, 13. Dezember 2012 11:50 11 Introduction STIHL offers every user, from occasional to professional, the right tools for maintaining the cutting attachment. Contents The cutting attachment consists of the saw chain, guide STIHL Advanced Technology ..............................................1 bar and chain sprocket. This handbook is intended as a guide to selecting and Construction of a Saw Chain ...............................................3 learning how to use the right tools for servicing your cutting attachment. With a little practice you will be able to sharpen your saw chains like a professional. Preparing the Saw Chain .....................................................6 Reading and observing the instructions in your chainsaw manual and those for the use of the servicing tools is a Principles – Sharpening Saw Chain ..................................8 precondition for the operations described in this handbook. Filing Aids .............................................................................12 Please contact your STIHL dealer if you have any further questions after reading this handbook. Tensioning the Saw Chain .................................................17 Always wear protective gloves when working on Sharpening Errors and Damage ........................................18 and with the chainsaw and cutting attachment. There is otherwise a risk of injury from the
    [Show full text]
  • Abrasive Cut Off Saw Tulane University Safety Instructions and Job Hazard Analysis: Abrasive Cut Off Saw
    Maker Space Job Hazard Analysis: Abrasive Cut Off Saw Tulane University Safety Instructions and Job Hazard Analysis: Abrasive Cut Off Saw 1 Maker Space Job Hazard Analysis: Abrasive Cut Off Saw Tulane University Job/Task Step Hazard Hazard Control Method/PPE Inspect Equipment/PPE Check/Buddy System N/A Don all required PPE for use of the Abrasive Cut Off Saw. Approved Safety Glasses with side shields, Long Pants, and Closed Toe Shoes Consider the use of Ear Plugs to reduce noise. All combustible and flammable materials must be a minimum of 10 feet away from this machine while it is being operated. Tuck in shirt, no loose fitting clothing or jewelry. Long hair must be pulled back or tucked into a hat. Work with the supervisor of the space to review operation and ensure all risks have been addressed. Ensure the Saw is placed on a Level Surface/Secure Muscle Strains, Pinch Points If the saw’s placement needs to be the Saw adjusted for leveling purposes, use proper lifting technique or ask for help due to the weight and awkwardness of the saw. Be aware of hand and body placement. Ensure Material being cut is Secure and Level Muscle Strains, Pinch Points, This saw is ONLY for steel. The blade will Abrasions/Lacerations, be ruined if it’s used to cut brass, aluminum, wood or anything that isn’t magnetic. Use proper lifting technique when placing material to be cut on the saw’s platform. Use clamps to secure the material once it’s leveled. Be aware of pinch points while handling material.
    [Show full text]
  • Universities of Leeds, Sheffield and York
    promoting access to White Rose research papers Universities of Leeds, Sheffield and York http://eprints.whiterose.ac.uk/ This is an author produced version of a paper published in Wear. White Rose Research Online URL for this paper: http://eprints.whiterose.ac.uk/43495 Published paper Lewis, R., Tsoraki, C., Broughton, J., Cripps, J.C., Afodun, S.A., Slatter, T., Roubos, V. (2011) Abrasive and impact wear of stone used to manufacture axes in Neolithic Greece, Wear, 271 (9-10), pp. 2549-2560 http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.wear.2010.12.074 White Rose Research Online [email protected] ABRASIVE AND IMPACT WEAR OF STONE USED TO MANUFACTURE AXES IN NEOLITHIC GREECE R. Lewis1, C. Tsoraki2, J. Broughton1, J.C. Cripps3, S.A. Afodun3, T. Slatter1, V. Roubos4, 1Department of Mechanical Engineering, University of Sheffield, UK 2Department of Archaeology, University of Sheffield, UK 3Department of Civil and Structural Engineering, University of Sheffield, UK 4Scott Wilson Ltd, Chesterfield, UK *[email protected] ABSTRACT Excavations at the Neolithic settlement at Makriyalos in Northern Greece brought to light a large number of stone axe heads, the majority of which were manufactured from serpentinite and igneous rocks. Detailed study of the manufacturing traces on the archaeological implements identified that both percussive (pecking) and abrasive techniques (sawing and grinding/polishing) were employed for the production of the axes. There is limited evidence, however, of how these processes may have been undertaken. The aim of this work was to build on previous research investigating sawing and polishing methods and the materials that may have been used in these tasks.
    [Show full text]
  • Saws from Festool. We Are Taking Over the Lead
    SAWING Product range Saws from Festool. We are taking over the lead. Perfection is our declared aim. If there will perhaps never be the perfect saw, we have already made history along the way: for example with the guide rail and the splinterguard for circu- lar saws, the triple saw blade guide for pendulum jigsaws or the twin column guide with two bearings for the KAPEX sliding compound mitre saws. We have learnt one thing from this: It is better to set standards than to following existing trends. Our engineers are the driving force behind all innovations. And, of course, our customers. Because only you can show us the way – to tools that are ergo- nomic in shape, lightweight, powerful and operate intuitively. In brief: to a sophisticated and well-thought out system that makes your work decisively easier. We shall remain true to this principle in the future: whether it be through the intensified use of our EC-TEC motor concept and the battery technology in the area of sawing or through further developments that meet our toughest demands. But for all the praise for our products receive here is constantly that little bit of self-criticism. An essential requirement for our aim: the construction of the perfect tool. Contents X Systems get it done 04 X Pendulum jigsaws CARVEX / TRION 06 X TS plunge-cut saws 08 X AXT building materials saw / Compound mitre saw SYMMETRIC 10 X KAPEX sliding compound mitre saws 12 X Bench-mounted trimming saw PRECISIO 14 X CMS Compact Module System 16 X Saw blades 18 X Accessories and consumable materials 20 X Scope of delivery and order numbers 24 2 Tool-less saw blade changes Working with suitable materials is worthwhile.
    [Show full text]