Lignell & Piispanen’s customer magazine for professionals 2/2012

From the Caribbean to Amsterdam E&A Scheer knows rum Crayfish party at St a shoreside sauna Summer evening style and traditions Petersburg A day with actor Ville Haapasalo Ricardo Sporkslede Bartender and visionary

Scandinavian party :: 160 years of family-owned business :: Gustav takes over the world :: are here to stay Lakka Joy 2/2012

Lignell & Piispanen’s customer www.loimuglogi.fi magazine for professionals in the alcoholic beverage industry: greetings from the flavourful Arctic Editorial Viva la vida!5 forests twice a year. Celebrating our anniversary 6 Chief editor News Worldwide success 26 Harri Nylund History The years 1872–1892 Editorial and layout 29 Trust Creative Society Oy Without a care for tomorrow Printed at Tammerprint Ville Haapasalo only has eyes for St Petersburg. Changes of address to 8 [email protected] Three centuries of rum E&A Sheer know the secrets of blending.

Tel. +358 17 2614 641 Kauppakatu 29 14 FI-70100 Kuopio

Production: Satamakatu 13 FI-70100 Kuopio

www.lignellpiispanen.fi Arctic luxury Permission to advertise alcohol The flavours of the wilderness in party . D. no 517/99/2011 20 22 Ricardo Sporkslede A renaissance man of culture

Summer evenings are perfect 30 for a crayfish party Festive food with Mikko Rosendahl

Merry Christmas! Export products 'Tis the season to be warm and jolly! Celebrate our 160-year anniversary with us and cozy up with Lignell & Piispanen’s range this year's precious vintage. The jewel of the arctic, the arctic bramble, is skillfully combined Product on cover: 34 from liqueurs to . with red – and a touch of cinnamon and cloves for warmth. So when the weather outside Cloudberry kir made with Cloud- berry and champagne is frightful, lean back by the fire, relax and enjoy a hot cup of Loimu in the company of loved ones. 3 SAWO MARTINI 2 cl Gustav Arctic 1 cl Gustav Arctic Blueberry vodka 1 cl Gustav Arctic Bramble liqueur Dash of orange bitters

Glass: Martini Garnish: Blueberries, lemon zest

Measure the ingredients into a mixing glass, add the ice. Mix. Strain into a chilled glass. Viva la vida! Garnish. Celebrations are great. Not just the celebration itself, but also the entire drama surrounding it from early preparations to the last nightcap and the joyful memo- ries.

This year every day is a party for us, as our family-owned company is celebrating the 160th anniversary of the suc- cess story founded by Gustav Ranin so many years ago. On the tenth of August, 1852, Gustav Ranin received the right to trade in the city of Kuopio and began to manufacture and import quality alcoholic beverages. The rest is history, and today we are more than ready to build the next 160 years for our company.

Gustav Ranin was a progressive merchant for his time, guiding his companies from the far north toward the international markets. Today it is wonderful to see how our company has continued his work by taking great strides in an international direction. The launch of our new Gustav products at the Düsseldorf ProWein exhibi- tion and at the Hong Kong Vinexpo exceeded expecta- tions and is in itself a cause for celebration.

Celebrations, however, are nothing without real peo- ple. I am especially proud to be able to celebrate with some of the company’s most important individu- als, its employees and owners, on the 10th of August, 2012. Thanks are due to each and every one of you!

A toast to all of us, cheers! ARCTIC LUXURY SINCE 1852 Harri Nylund Meet our great great great grandfather. Gustav Ranin founded our family-owned Managing Director company in 1852. He distilled such fine, top-quality vodka that it sold out in [email protected] no time at all. So why change the recipe? To this day we manufacture this soft and aromatic vodka with a delicate hint of grain using the same scandinavian artisan skills.

5 schnapps Photo Johanna Karttunen

Time to celebrate!

Glasses are raised to 130 years of Lignell & Piispanen and 160 years of its parent company Oy Gust Ranin. The family-owned company, established in Kuopio in 1852 by Gustav Ranin, is one of ’s oldest and has been passed down through the family for generations. The celebration we are all looking forward to will take place on the 10th of August, when the company’s history will begin its 17th decade. The Koivumäki Manor in Kuopio has belonged to the Ranin family since 1869. A new main building, designed by architect Waldemar Aspelin, was constructed in 1907 and served as a location for numerous summer celebra- tions for local tenant farmers and serfs. Today, Koivumäki Manor, with its café and restaurant, is a popular venue for celebrations and meetings. >> koivumaenkartano.com

PICTURED. Lignell & Piispanen owners Life without festivity is like a with their spouses and ancestors raise a celebratory toast led by Managing Director long road without an inn. Harri Nylund (centre). – Democritus

Lakka Joy No 2/2012 7 Shutterstock Without a care - A day in St Petersburg with actor Ville Haapasalo for Text tomorrowPekka Nurmi :: Photos Jaani Vaahtera

St Petersburg is a bustling metropolis and city of celebration where super- popular Finnish actor Ville Haapasalo loves to celebrate Russian-style – with respect for traditions, yet carefree and uncomplicated.

Act 1. The pale spring sun lights up a side street It’s early and the lunchtime rush hasn’t reached after a rain shower. A black car comes to a stop in Cat Café yet. Still, tables murmur as Ville Haapasalo front of a line of old buildings and a robust man enters. Heads turn, accompanied by low whispers. dressed in black steps out. His face is framed between The star - known and loved by all of Mother Russia - a touque and a beard that has been given free rein to is not at all disconcerted by the attention. He warmly grow. The man’s expression is boyish but not naive. hugs the middle-aged lady who emerges from the He walks to an old door camouflaged by the bustling kitchen and proceeds to introduce her as Marina. street, looks around, and enters. The two have known each other since Ville’s theatre years, when, as a poor acting student, he received food from the warm-hearted Georgian restaurateur.

Lakka Joy No 2/2012 9 ”When you celebrate in St Petersburg you don’t think about what your bank balance will look like the next day or how tired you are. Why would you worry about the future today when you can enjoy the present?”

Ville’s financial situation is, of course, very – This is the most festive and delicious food from the water, St Petersburg appears fasci- different now, and the prize winning national I know. I couldn’t imagine anything finer. In natingly timeless. The cityscape, constructed hero can afford to choose where to dine. Nev- true Georgian style, each dish is unique and in the 18th and 19th centuries, gains some ertheless, he always returns to the delicacies delicious, with a full belly guaranteed after of its atmosphere from restored sights, but of Cat Café. When he visits his former home every meal. most of all it is characterised by much lived-in and student city, he often reserves the entire residential buildings. Buildings that have seen restaurant for his friends for dining, drinking not only the Siege of Leningrad, but also the and celebration. As is the tradition in Russia, Act 2. On an open deck in a cool breeze, the difficult times of the Soviet Union. Buildings a party revolves around good food. Georgian man’s gaze scans the landscape. Every now and whose walls contain numerous stories. cuisine, which has had a strong influence again his eyes light up as he spots something famil- Ville Haapasalo seems to know all of on Russian food culture, takes this one step iar among the endless rows of buildings, unforget- them. Having lived and studied in St Pe- further: food is nothing less than the mean- table moments forever instilled in his memory, life tersburg for a long time, his knowledge of ing of life. lived and legends heard. the city covers the settings of the country’s – Georgia is the centre of Slavic culinar- most famous authors’ stories, as well as the ism, a country where people truly love food. Spring is cool in the city divided by the sites of historical tragedies and modern In Finland, you might start a conversation Neva River and its distributaries, but the subcultures. It is evident that Ville lives discussing the weather; in Georgia, you start vodka enjoyed with the food brings warmth to and breathes St Petersburg, wholeheartedly with food. And when you eat, you eat well – the riverboat deck. enjoying its atmosphere. without skimping on the amount, explains Even though vodka is a cliché associated But like everything else, modern St Ville, ordering one dish after another. with Russia, it is nevertheless an inseparable Petersburg also has a darker side. Although part of the national cuisine and way of cel- Moscow is the centre of trade and finance, The reason for such indulgence lies in ebrating. A before a meal used to serve signs of materialism can be found in St Russian tradition. Today we are celebrating the purpose of cleansing the system at a time Petersburg, too. Ferraris and Lamborghinis like true residents of St Petersburg – with no when there were no guarantees that food was race along the streets at night, and an end- holds barred. Food is an essential part of the fresh, or even fit for consumption. less world of superficiality is open to all who celebration: when the food is good, life is Today vodka is associated with both dining can afford it. good. and entertainment. In contrast to the West, Almost as if to counterbalance this, the city – A Russian celebration focuses on food. It’s vodka is sold here by the gram in restaurants is also home to bohemians, intellectuals and almost holy. When someone prepares a meal, in jugs of various sizes. artists who value Russian cultural tradition everyone gathers around to enjoy, praise and Juice goes well with vodka, but not mixed and for whom wealth is not a determiner of taste it. Food is prepared with love and quality together. Despite the city’s close proximity to self-importance. Ville Haapasalo can also be ingredients, especially for celebrations, says Europe, cocktails have never really gained a considered as part of the latter group. An Ville. foothold in St Petersburg. Mixed drinks are Honored Artist of the Russian Federation, a – My relationship with food has changed considered slightly dubious and a bartender’s successful actor and a foreigner who seems to while I’ve lived in Russia. In Finland I’m skills with cocktails can vary. have taken on Russian values and lifestyle at amazed by the culture of eating to stay alive. We celebrate with champagne alongside least as much, if not more, than many locals For some inexplicable reason we’ve begun to vodka. has also grown in popularity, themselves. eat processed food that does little more than having recently been deemed an alcoholic – I love the Russian disposition. It might fill your stomach. product rather than a foodstuff. The sale of seem gloomy and serious, but under the In half an hour the table is full of enticing beer has tripled over the last fifteen years. surface beats a warm and civilised heart that dishes from preserved garlic stalks to a nutty – Vodka is still seen as almost sacred. It’s approaches all experiences with great emo- chicken stew and warm, steaming khachapuri. inseparable from both everyday life and cel- tion. Here people throw themselves into the Cat Café is famed for its dishes and is popular ebrations, says Ville Haapasalo, who has been moment, as you never know what tomorrow among local celebrities. Ville is no exception. assimilating into Russian culture since 1991. may bring.

Ville Haapasalo is a gourmet who enjoys good food and drink during his free time, which is somewhat of a rarity. Restaurant Cat Cafe is popular among celebrities and the cultural elite in St Petersburg. Georgian food is simple but tasty. Ville Haapasalo is a household name all over Russia. Excited fans often stop the super- popular actor for a photo or autograph.

Lakka Joy No 2/2012 11 At the Purga Bar, every night is New Year’s. The party continues into the wee hours.

Act 3. A man dressed as a rabbit encourages In the same breath, he reveals that Russians Ville Haapasalo smiles in the dressing members of a conga line to playfully tap each other’s tend to be civilised partygoers. Even though it room as he looks at the clock coming up to bottoms. The laughing on the dance floor is over- looks wild in the bars, the joy is genuine. You seven in the morning and then returns to the shadowed by the local chart-topping music. Dozens don’t go out to unload anger or stress, but in- peace of the sauna. In Russia the sauna is a of unfamiliar faces gleam happily in the flashing stead to have fun with your friends,. You never traditional end to a successful party. Especial- lights. When midnight arrives, who cares if it’s the celebrate alone in Russia. ly in the 19th century, the upper class enjoyed New Year or the end of the world, we live in the here a tradition of taking saunas before and after and now. Night clubs and restaurants that are open celebrations. until the wee hours of the morning are merely In the Tsar’s court, the tradition was to or- The rabbit at the door of the Purga Bar is one superficial side of the Russian culture of ganise evening saunas, where food, drink and enthusiastic at Ville Haapasalo’s visit. “This celebration. The most important events are cel- sauna were enjoyed in succession for hours on will be a good new year”, he says, handing out ebrated at home with family and close friends. end. cardboard ears as he guides guests to their Tradition plays an important part. There is The most enthusiastic sauna-goers still head table. always a host or hostess to take care of the guests back in though the dawn is rising after the In Russia, the New Year, heralded by the and to say when and to whom to raise a toast. night’s partying. Afterwards, they continue rabbit, is the most important celebration Toasts are a thriving tradition, even among on home to bed or to one of the restaurants of the year, and celebrations last for days, young people, and they are made with Slavic opening up in the morning. culminating on the 14th of January when the eloquence and old-fashioned charm. A person Like any other global metropolis, St Peters- country celebrates the old New Year. who is good at toasts, who is able to adapt burg is alive 24/7. Nonetheless, Ville sees St Purga Bar celebrates the New Year and traditional speeches appropriately, is a valued Petersburg as peaceful and calm in compari- all of its traditions every night. As the clock guest at social events. son to Moscow. For him the city represents strikes 12, a champagne toast – on the house – Friendliness, hospitality and a natural sense Russia and Russianness at its best. is raised, New Year speeches by Soviet lead- of caring are also evident in the fast-paced – St Petersburg is a state of mind. It’s a con- ers are watched and guests hug as sparklers nightlife. In the surreal environment of the stantly thriving centre of life where you live, are set alight. After the ceremony, the night Purga Bar, the good-natured atmosphere of celebrate, love and worry like only Russians continues until six in the morning with music, fellow partygoers soon helps you to forget the can. I live in Moscow because of my work, but dance, vodka and new friends. troubles of day-to-day life. St Petersburg is my true love. My heart weeps – When you celebrate in St Petersburg, you When heading for the dance floor, tomor- when I have to leave here. don’t think about what your bank balance will row feels far away and worrying about it is It also weeps as the midday sun sweeps over look like the next day or how tired you are. simply unnecessary. Que sera, sera. the Neva bridges. Ville, who travels up to 300 Why would you worry about the future today days a year, boards the train to Moscow once when you can enjoy the present? Tomorrow, again, knowing he will soon return to the city its joys and its sorrows will come around Act 4. The sauna steam hits the heated stones of his dreams. eventually, think about them then. It’s a great with a splash and a burning wave of heat follows. way to think, but hard for us Finns to wrap People bow their heads and sink into their own our heads around, explains Ville of the local thoughts in the heat and silence. Everyone’s weari- attitude, enjoying the liberated atmosphere of ness seems to abate for a second as we are recharged the night club. after an exhausting adventure in the city’s nightlife.

From the Tsar’s court to border trade

For Lignell & Piispanen, St Petersburg was one of the first and most important export sites at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries. At the time, the Tsar’s court valued not only the unique and prize-winning Arctic Bramble liqueur , but also the company’s other quality alcoholic bever- ages. In recent decades, Lignell & Piispanen’s business from Finland to Russia has been very successful. Tourists can find our products in four shops along the eastern border and on the cruise ship St. Peter Line, which travels between Helsinki and St Petersburg. The popularity of traditional liqueurs in Russia has remained high. – To this day, we continue to sell almost the same products to the east as we did over 100 years ago. Our berry liqueurs, and are popular, as Russians value their pure, genuine flavours and ingredients. We are also perceived as a reliable, Finnish supplier, says Lignell & Piispanen’s managing director Harri Nylund. – From our perspective, the entire country’s markets are an interesting future opportunity, which does, however, pose its own challenges relating to external uncertaintiesand frequent changes to legislation. In one way or another, however, we will be present on the Russian market in the future. It would be disrespectful to our traditions if we did it any other way.

Lakka Joy No 2/2012 13 Three centuries of RumText Pekka Nurmi :: Photos Jaani Vaahtera

When E&A Scheer first began operations, it had its own merchant fleet. Today its ships still exist, but only in model form.

Lakka Joy No 2/2012 15 A tower of steel containers lies in waiting at Amsterdam harbour. Few people realise that the containers are hiding up to 6,000,000 litres of rum.

Rum has an unmistakeable air of maritime in the beautiful city of canals, and after three or from molasses left over from the sugar romance. The shipment of rum from the centuries of operation, the company has an es- manufacturing process. After , the Caribbean colonies to Europe began as early tablished customer base and operating model. drink is aged in oak barrels for a period rang- as in the 17th century. The crossing to the old Scheer specialises in bringing bulk rum ing from one year to several decades, usually world over the stormy Atlantic was long and from Caribbean producing countries to 1-5 years, however, when the rum takes on col- often fraught with danger. The very drink Europe, where the company uses its skills to our and aromas from the barrel. Lighter rums being shipped was also the source of a ship’s blend and prepare different kinds of rum may be bottled immediately after distillation. crew’s motivation and was used to prevent for its customers. Its customers are mostly –The rums of different countries have dis- disease. beverage companies from around the world, tinctive tastes. The distillation method itself Although rum has its roots in the Caribbe- but some operate in the cosmetics, aroma and can be a source of flavour. The distillation an and in South America, Europeans can be food industries. methods and equipment in British-adminis- credited with its creation. Even in the time of Carsten Vlierboom, who has been the manag- tered Jamaica originate in the country Columbus, sugarcane had made its way to the ing director at E&A Scheer for fifteen years, in Scotland, while the distillation process Caribbean Islands along with European ships, explains that the demand for rum has risen in Martinique, ruled by France, has been and it proved to be easily cultivated in the lo- steadily since the turn of the millennium. The adapted from manufacturers. The cal climate. When it was noticed that the plant increase in demand is evident in the compa- natural growth environments and fermenta- not only produced sugar but also made for a ny’s operations. Since the start of the new mil- tion processes also have their effects on the tasty alcoholic beverage, rum was exported to lennium, Scheer’s turnaround has increased taste of the rum. Some rums have a naturally Europe with great enthusiasm. almost four-fold. Vlierboom believes that one rich and fruity taste, while others are very In the 18th century, the popularity of rum reason for the increase in demand lies in the neutral, depending on the properties of the in Europe was so great that, in England, it boom. raw materials and the manufacturing method even overtook the traditional beverage of – Rum is incredibly versatile. It can be used used. choice, . At the same time a Dutch, family- in an infinite amount of different drinks, and As a result of the aging process, the rum owned shipping company by the name of more and more bartenders are realising this. darkens, and premium and super premium E&A Scheer began operations, with its vessels And we’re always looking for something new. rums, which have been aged for a long time, sailing along the Atlantic triangle trade route Whisky used to be the most popular, but now are naturally dark brown. Burnt sugar is often between Europe, Africa and the West Indies, it seems that its cocktail options have been added to younger dark rums to give them returning to Europe with rum and sugar. exhausted and it’s time for a change. Rum has colour, making them a deep golden brown. In the following century, Scheer began potential, which is visible in the market areas. – In tropical countries, the aging process in to focus increasingly on rum and started to Currently, Scheer supplies rum to its oak barrels is a delicate and challenging task, concoct a variety of blends from the rum customers in over 40 countries. The annual as the high temperatures speed up the process stock it had in its warehouses. To guarantee quantity of pure alcohol (100 %vol.) delivered to almost three times faster than the time it speedy delivery and short distances to other is 10 million litres, which is around 33 million takes in European conditions. For this reason, parts of Europe, the warehouse was located in bottles of rum. it is impossible to compare the age of rum to Amsterdam. that of whisky or cognac. As the loss caused by Rum can be manufactured through the evaporation from barrels is around 5% annu- Not much has changed to this day. E&A distillation of fermented juice prepared from ally in demanding conditions, after 20 years Scheer’s head office and warehouses are still sugarcane, from concentrated sugarcane juice there isn’t much left of the drink at all.

Rum blends are often created using several different basic grades of rum, which bring their own nuances to the drink.

E&A Scheer’s office is full of reminders of years past.

Lignell & Piispanen’s department secretary Tanja Kamaja-Miskala works with foreign trade, seen here learning about the nuances of rum.

Samples from different produces are marked in detail. They are used to produce carefully created blends.

Lakka Joy No 2/2012 17 “We work like tailors to create a product according to the measurements we’re given”.

Since 1712

E&A Scheer’s strength on the markets is an suitable product, and the customer’s opin- rising producing countries, with companies understanding of the properties of rum and ions swayed along the way, too. In the end, I including Scheer searching for new partners how to refine it. Anyone can trade in rum, but revisited one of the first alternatives and the in cooperation. few understand it enough to be able to form customer thought it was perfect. Sometimes – This business requires an understand- harmonious blends from different grades and you have to take a long journey to get where ing of cultures and habits. Our customers batches. This is why there is hardly any viable you want to go. come from as far as Japan, where the working competition. Blending rum is a task that requires prac- culture is astoundingly different compared to – We work like tailors to create a product tice and a good sense of smell. It’s not a ques- producer countries like Jamaica. Both parties according to the measurements we’re given. tion of tasting drinks all day; 90% of the work need a middle man who can speak a language When we begin our task, we only have the involves using your nose. understood by both and can make sure that customer’s vision of the type of product he or – The brain is surprisingly good at remember- schedules, for example, are not interpreted she wants. This makes the development stage ing smells, which is why you can remember some too differently. particularly important. smells vividly, even after a long period of time. Luckily, one is spoilt for choice where rum Carsten Vlierboom himself works as one of Part of E&A Scheer’s operating philosophy is concerned. E&A Scheer’s network consists the head blenders. He learned the skill from is that the company does not have a produc- of around twentyfive producers in about fiteen the company’s former master blender and tion line of its own, nor does it bottle its origins, meaning that there are a couple of by spending as much time as possible in the products itself. hundred basic grades. The first step is to find sample room. This is something that cannot – Our own brand of alcohol could be briefly out what the customer really wants. Starting be studied at school. entertaining, but if we produced one, we points can vary greatly. would be competing against our customers, – Some know exactly what kind of aroma Once a suitable blend has been created which I don’t see as wise. they want the rum to have, or where they with the use of sample bottles, the quantities Vlierboom likes to be open with all his cus- would the rum to have its origins. Others change drastically. The final batches of drink tomers. As one of the most significant operators might have a bottle and label, marketing mate- are produced on a scale of thousands of litres in its field, Scheer sells its services to mutual rial, distribution channels and pricelists ready, at the Scheer warehouse. competitors and isn’t afraid to admit it. but still lack an idea of the actual product. As the quality of raw materials from suppli- – We’re the kind of tailor who sells suits to ers can vary, the basic grades in the ware- both Obama and Putin. The most important Product development usually begins with a house are blended from several batches. This thing is to stop them from going into the rough analysis. The customer is offered a few ensures that the grade stays balanced, even in changing rooms at the same time. alternatives, which guide the process in the di- large quantities. The logistics of the rum trade is outsourced rection of the desired aroma. Composition is – It is also favourable to blend rum because nowadays, and Scheer hasn’t had a naval fleet adapted gradually, until the end result meets relying on a single grade from a single sup- in years. Still, the rum romance of years past the customer’s requirements. plier is highly uncertain in business. There’s is still alive in the maritime atmosphere of the Development work is demanding for both always the possibility of a hurricane or vol- harbour warehouse. the blender and the customer and can, at its canic eruption that can destroy crops and halt Seagulls caw, ships set sail and a light hint longest, endure months. It is not unheard of production for several years. of salt floats in the air. Somewhere far away, to have to go back to the drawing board. At the moment, most producers are in the a lone freight ship makes its way through the – We developed a product with one custom- Caribbean. Southern and Central American gentle warmth of the Caribbean with its hold er for over six months, but couldn’t arrive at a countries such as Paraguay and Venezuela are of aged rum. Just like 300 years ago.

>> www.rum.nl E&A Scheer’s managing director Carsten Vlierboom does a lot of product development himself. Fifteen years of expe- rience in blending rum is a solid background by any scale.

Lakka Joy nro 2/2012 19 Scandinavian Sparkly No. 1 Kuopio Sling

Tonic 1 cl Spruce shoot syrup 2 tsp rosehip jam 2 cl Lignell & Piispanen 2 cl Lignell & Piispanen Blackcurrant liqueur 3 cl Lignell & Piispanen Arctic Bramble liqueur 4 drops Lemon Bitters ARCTIC Arctic Bramble liqueur 4 cl fortified raspberry wine dry sparkling wine 1 cl gin 6 cl pineapple juice or champagne 2 cl rhubarb juice 4 drops Angostura Bitters For important events, only cocktails juice of half a lime 1 cl cherry liqueur Measure the liqueur and Fentimans Tonic Water juice of half a lime made from the best ingredients syrup into a glass. Add a drop of the bitters. Mix and will do. The flavours of Arctic na- LUXURY Measure all ingredients ex- Measure all ingredients into a serve garnished with spruce cept the tonic into a shaker large shaker and shake. Serve ture are pure, precious and unique. shoots. and shake. Strain the drink garnished with juniper berries What could be more luxurious than over ice. Top up with tonic. and lingonberries. to enjoy them in creative and entic- Garnish. ing combinations?

Lakka Marmalade Birch Bubbles Loimu Fashion 2 cl Lignell & Piispanen Cloudberry liqueur This selection of festive drinks 2 cl Gustav Blueberry vodka 2 cl buckthorn berry juice 3 cl Loimu was designed by Erno Vainanen, win- 2 cl lemonade concentrate 1 cl Lignell & Piispanen Arctic ner of the Cocktail BaariMikko title 2 tsp orange marmalade 1 cl birch sap syrup Bramble liqueur in 2011. Vainanen, 27, works as head splash of San Pellegrino mineral water 1 cl Lignell & Piispanen dash of sugar syrup bar manager at the Grotesk restau- Cloudberry liqueur 4 drops Angostura Bitters rant in Helsinki and as bar manager Measure all ingredients besides the San Pel- sparkling wine at the Laboratorium company, which legrino into a shaker and shake. Strain the Mix the ingredients in a glass and specialises in bar business, events and drink over ice into a highball glass and top up Pour the ingredients over stir well. Fill a jam jar with ice and cocktail design. In his work, he enjoys with San Pellegrino. Garnish with blueberries crushed ice into a large wine strain the drink over the ice. Deco- the aspect of being able to produce a and orange. glass. Garnish with birch rate with orange peel and a cherry. full experience. leaves. Lakka Joy No 2/2012 21 How do you throw a party at home for thirsty celebrities, a corporate party on a budget the size of a house or a glamorous gala evening with equally glamorous catering? Ricardo - Fabulous shaker boy SporksledeText Pekka Nurmi :: Photos Ilja Visser and Jaani Vaahtera

Lakka Joy nro 2/2012 23 Ricardo Sporkslede deals with similar The entire Shaker Boys network can be Experiences are created with quality drinks. questions every day. He is the Netherlands’ seated at the long table at the Fabulous Shaker The drinks menu covers the classics plus 12 most famous bartender and the founder of Boys office in central Amsterdam: over 20 bar- signature cocktails, including barrel-aged the Fabulous Shaker Boys, which specialises in tenders who work as needed in events ordered drinks and quality punches. cocktail catering. Sporkslede is a party profes- from the company. Ricardo considers the hottest new thing to sional and a Renaissance man when it comes Despite having reached the far side of fifty, be the signature cocktails that have a flirta- to bar culture. His career has taken him from Ricardo radiates commitment and energy as he tious relationship with food and get their behind the bar to the frontlines of event pro- presents what his bar has to offer. His passion flavour from foie gras, for example. duction and restaurant consulting. makes him seem far younger than his years. – When you fry foie gras in plenty of fat, the The Fabulous Shaker Boys turn ten this Or then it’s the company that keeps rubbing flavour and aroma stick to the fat. Then the year, and the company is the apple of Spork- off on him. Employees at Shaker Boys include fat is mixed into the cognac and the mixture slede’s eye. The company caters top-quality young, enthusiastic and highly promising peo- is put into the refrigerator to marinate. Before drinks for up to four hundred events a year. ple. Even a veteran in the field can learn new it’s served, the cognac is filtered, but a fabu- – We produce events, provide bartenders, tricks from them. lous aroma of foie gras remains in the cognac. develop drinks, construct concepts, consult, – Nowadays, bartenders are like doctors. This is just one example of how to create bril- run a bar and train professionals and enthu- They study and want to know everything. I liant combinations of flavours. siasts alike. The common denominator is learn astounding things from them, even In practice, the bar is an endless play- providing an experience, explains Ricardo. though you would think that 25 years of expe- ground, offering its owners new challenges in Events range from promotional tours for rience in the industry would have taught me their beloved world of cocktails. companies in the alcoholic beverage industry to everything. Ricardo’s innovativeness reveals a strong private events on yachts owned by millionaires. New ideas can be found by peering into the desire to retain his leading position in the indus- And the services don’t stop at drinks. The world of perfumes, for example. try. That’s why The Butcher will not be follow- company aims for a comprehensive service – We have made use of flowers in cocktails ing the traditional jazz bar approach taken by that allows for an all-round experience. by extracting their aromas into alcohol, much many other speakeasy bars, where customers are – For me, the most important thing is to like in the perfume industry. We prepare expected to sit in their seats quietly. achieve the best possible in whatever I do. drinks made by injecting flower vodka into a – We want to focus on having a good time. I want the reaction to be WOW! sugar cube and then dropping it into a cham- We have DJ’s in charge of the music, there’s pagne glass. We call it Bellini No. 5. room in the bar to dance, move around and The self-taught Master of Experiences party as much as you want. began his career behind a bar, gleaning all Despite having created his own, cross- the information he could find on the classic disciplinary imperium, Ricardo still yearns for Ricardo, who operates rather like a chame- cocktail culture. He gained skills and status the basics. His long-term dream of having a leon in various sectors of operations, explains in the bar circles of Amsterdam by reading new restaurant of his own was finally realised that he found his own motivation in creativity books, visiting bars and taking research trips in May as The Butcher opened its doors to and change. to the progressive night life of London. Amsterdam. – I’ve always looked at things around me – I became an entrepreneur out of frus- As is Ricardo’s style, the concept of The and tried to do them a little better myself. The tration. One day in the bar a beautiful girl Butcher is a surprising one. The restaurant, development of restaurant concepts, strategies asked me when I was going to get a real job. I located near the popular market area, is remi- and parties is natural to me since I’ve been in decided to show her that this is real work. niscent of an abattoir and serves the city’s best the industry long enough to know its actors, The ambition created Mme. Jeanette, Am- hamburgers. its legislation and requirements. sterdam’s first real cocktail bar and number The Butcher conceals a secret, however, In the event and cocktail industry, Ricardo one spot for enlightened party-goers. despite its minimalist and simple appearance. is interested in the basics. But Sporkslede didn’t stop there. It was time The door to the cool room at the back of the res- – The most important thing for me is to to pioneer an idea he had mulled over for a taurant opens up into an unnamed secret bar. offer people the best possible experiences. A long time and to establish Fabulous Shaker – I love the exclusive speakeasy culture. In friendly and skilled bartender at a party has Boys, which would concentrate on only the connection with The Butcher, the bar will be an important role in creating the atmosphere. best cocktails and the most stylish events. a high-class, modern place for a select few. We The second most important thing is the Shortly thereafter came the Bartender Net- won’t be advertising the bar in any way. ”High­ creative development of cocktails and events, work, a community of professionals, brands, end underground” is our thing. although these are simply tools with which to interior designers and other experts , whose create the perfect event experience. The most operations are based on the development of Good service, surprise and luxury are the important ingredient is always the person the industry through training, discussion and cornerstones of the bar, says Ricardo. He will be himself. cooperation. responsible for the quality of the service himself.

Fabulous Shaker Boys employs young, rising stars. Italian Giro is one of the company’s cocktail masters.

Fabulous Shaker Boys is known for its signature cocktails.

Fresh fruits form the basis of quality drinks. Food adds an interesting touch to the experience.

Ricardo Sporkslede is unprejudiced and uncompromising in following his own path. Lakka Joy nro 2/2012 25 news

International launch for the Unique Loimu to top off Gustav product range our anniversary Lignell & Piispanen’s international The 2012 Loimu vintage will be celebrating Lignell & launch of its new Gustav product range Piispanen’s 160th anniversary. With an updated recipe began with great success. Unveiled for and design each year, Loimu is a vintage mulled wine the first time in March at the ProWein that has quickly become a Christmas season classic. exhibition in Düsseldorf, the Gustav This year, the festive red bottle contains a luxurious products gathered admiration and surprise. Its unique recipe celebrates the taste of an ar- worldwide interest. The Gustav range Asia charmed by Arctic luxury omatic, rare delicacy: the Arctic bramble. Cinnamon consists of high-quality luxury prod- ucts. The liqueurs and dessert wines The international product launch continued deal of admiration. The three-day exhibition left and cloves are added to herald the warmth and festive made from hand-picked Arctic berries, in May at the Vinexpo exhibition in Hongkong plenty of time for meetings with Asian import- atmosphere of Christmas. Loimu vintages are popular the pure, traditionally manufactured and whisked L&P representatives off to a city ers and alcohol industry professionals. Lignell & collector’s items and are highly valued as gifts. Served of seven million, where East meets West in Piispanen will be continuing its global work and vodkas and the timeless Scandina- warm, Loimu brings peaceful warmth to dark winter a fascinating way. The ever-increasing Asian will return to the Asian markets and their many evenings and is at its best when enjoyed with friends vian design are elements which give markets are continually looking for new, quality opportunities in autumn 2012, when we will the Gustav brand unique value on the products, so our luxurious Arctic products and acquaint ourselves with local operators in more and family. As in earlier years, the Loimu batch will international market. their Scandinavian design attracted a great detail in order to start possible cooperation. be limited this year, too. Due to high demand, Loimu has been sold out each year before Christmas, which means that it’s worth getting your bottle in good time. Loimu will be on sale in Alko stores from October. Celebratory products for IN BRIEF a year of anniversaries Lignell & Piispanen’s new importer in Swe- den is Berntson Brands AB. The company The year 2012 is a significant year for Finnish is one of the leading importers of alcohol alcohol culture. Alko celebrates its 80th year, in Sweden and has cooperated with some Loimu rivals Lignell & Piispanen is turning 130, and its of the world’s best-known brands since the parent company, Oy Gust. Ranin, is celebrating 1950’s, with a particular focus on strong Glühwein 160 years of operation since it was founded in international names and growing, innovative 1852. To celebrate, Lignell & Piispanen have product brands. German Christmas markets are produced limited batches of Savon Viinaa and traditional venues that attract Hienoa Konjakkia (Fine Cognac). The com- Strengthening its foothold on the HoReCa visitors during the Christmas pany’s long traditions as both a purveyor of fine market, L&P will be producing a signature season to purchase gifts and artisan skills and a pioneer in Finnish alcohol spirit for the Hullu Poro restaurant chain. The to enjoy the warmed culture were visible in the products that came spirit will be launched during 2012. known as Glühwein. Last on sale in April. Savon Viinaa, manufactured Christmas, Lignell & Piispanen according to its original recipe from 1869, made L&P is increasing cooperation with SOK. offered Loimu to locals at one its second comeback since prohibition. When Alongside the company’s other campaigns, of Berlin’s largest Christmas Oy Alkoholiliike Ab opened its doors for busi- L&P was largely involved at the Kuopio Wine markets, Opernpalais. Rep- ness is 1932, Savon Viinaa was among the first Festival from 29th June - 7th July 2012. resenting the Scandinavian spirits to be included in its range. The design of tradition of mulled wine at its the celebratory bottle, manufactured and num- L&P wants to be involved in developing most luxurious, Loimu 2011 bered by hand, oozes the spirit of 1932. Savon and supporting Finnish bar culture. This charmed Berliners with its fabulous taste, pure composition and Viinaa was often sold out in the 19th century includes close cooperation with Finland’s impressive design. Many tasters said Loimu was an incredibly due to its high popularity. It is easy to predict Bartender and Supporter Club (F.B.S.K) and pleasing and welcome premium alternative for the unilateral that the same will happen with this year’s cel- Finland’s leading cocktail bars. Glühwein markets. After receiving positive feedback, Loimu will ebratory batch of 40,000 bottles. Fine Cognac is be more visible than ever in Central Europe in coming Christ- a much-loved classic from Lignell & Piispanen. L&P’s product director and company owner mas seasons. Hienoa Konjakkia VS Juhla will be honouring Ilpo Nylund, as well as long-term employee Alko’s anniversary with its traditions reaching Arja Vuorinen, will be retiring from operations as far back as the 1870s. The special batch of at Lignell & Piispanen. 20,000 bottles is numbered, and its appearance will be reminiscent of the original product.

Lakka Joy No 2/2012 27 1872-1892

1850 1900 1950 2000

Especially delicious liqueur When young pharmacists Hugo Lignell and August Emil Piispanen purchased the operations of Kuopion kanta-apteekki pharmacy in 1872, Piispanen’s passion was for the pharmaceutical industry. Lignell on the other hand, was drawn to business and product de- velopment. Long-term experimentation carried out by Hugo Lignell in the 1880’s in search of the perfect liqueur recipe hit a gold vein in 1882, when the Arctic bramble revealed itself to be a highly aromatic ingredient. Word of the delicious drink spread fast. Lignell & Piis- panen’s Arctic Bramble liqueur received its first awards in Finland in 1883 and in Copenhagen in 1888. Thanks to the Danish award, the liqueur achieved international fame and began to be exported from Kuopio to Denmark, Germany, Poland and Russia. After commercial counsellor Hugo Lignell died at the age of 49 in 1890, the instructions on how to prepare the liqueur and the access rights for the brand were handed to his assistant A.J Kotilainen, who later continued to develop the recipe and help the liqueur achieve further international notoriety in St Petersburg and Paris... TO BE CONTINUED.

Lignell & Piispanen history, part 3 This year we are celebrating our 160th anniversary as our parent company, Oy Gust. Ranin, was founded in Kuopio in 1852. Our roots reach back to 1783, when Gustav III estab- lished the Swedish Royal Distillery of the Crown on the plot where our current factory stands. Oy Gust. Ranin purchased the Lignell & Piispanen trade name and rights from mer- chant A.J Kotilainen in 1932.

LUXURY SCHNAPPS Marshal of Finland Carl Gustaf Mannerheim's famous . In keeping with Chevalier Guard tradition, the drink is served well chilled and the glass is filled right to the brim. Sources: Jouko Kauranne: Oy Gust. Ranin 150 vuotta. Eero Hietakari: Osakeyhtiö Gust. Ranin. Savon vanhin kauppiashuone 1852 – 1952. Photo: Pekka Nurmi Location: Kuopion korttelimuseo

29 On a dusky August night, the scent of a smoke sauna mingles with the aroma of fish cooking on the barbeque. To celebrate one of the highlights of the late Finnish summer, tonight’s food is served outside with an old door acting as the dinner table.

Despite the fishcooking on the coals, the – Cooking should be relaxed at home, around products that are in season in late real highlight of the night is another kind of anyway. What could be better than pour- summer when crayfish parties are held and freshwater creature, the crayfish. The delicacy, ing yourself a glass of wine and enjoying the that are easily available in the local natural traditionally enjoyed in late summer, is a good preparation in peace? surroundings. reason to get together and enjoy the dwin- While it’s fine to be laid back at home, – The menu combines traditional ingre- dling daylight of the approaching autumn. Rosendahl admits he’s a perfectionist at work. dients and flavours. They are highlighted in Those who are initiated with the crayfish – In a restaurant, each element on a plate a surprising and interesting manner, with a tradition already know how the party will pro- should have a purpose. Even though raw theme of purity and nature. ceed. Originating from Sweden, the tradition ingredients can be seasoned in a variety of Alcohol products are also utilised without combines crayfish interspersed with schnapps, ways, their natural characteristics should be prejudice in the dishes. Rosendahl believes drinking songs, socialising and a table set ap- highlighted, not overpowered. The quality of they have a place in cooking, but that their propriately for the theme. the raw ingredients should also be the best use should be carefully considered. Preparing the nippers today is Mikko possible. – As with seasoning in general, alcohol Rosendahl, owner of three Kuopio restaurants should be used with care in order to avoid and television cook known for the Makuja The unprejudiced development of new masking the flavour of the raw ingredients. programme broadcast on Finnish MTV3. recipes is a way of life for this professional who If you cook with drinks that could be enjoyed Despite the fame of performing, his true is highly committed to his work. Rosendahl with the raw ingredient itself, you can’t go passion is still food. Food that is fine yet explains that even on a pleasant afternoon wrong. uncomplicated, as is mirrored in the slogan stroll during his free time, if he spots some- One such drink is POPLE, which, when of Ravintola Os, owned by Mikko and his wife thing edible in the forest, he thinks about how combined with fresh berries, makes Rosen- Pauliina. he could use it in the kitchen. dahl overflow with praise. Os focuses on quality yet affordable Franco- The passionate food enthusiast lives his – POPLE is a fantastic product for desserts, . His second restaurant, Gusto, dream as a restauranteur. Rosendahl was first as its pure, genuine berry-rich flavour makes it serves Italian dishes with a laid-back Savonian drawn to the profession at the age of seven. a perfect addition to the berries’ own aroma. attitude, while the third, Hiili, serves simple, – One of my relatives was - and still is - a tasty food from the grill. chef. He had a motorbike and a large knife. In Once the meal preparations are almost a 7 year olds eyes, this was the greatest thing done, Rosendahl lights candles and places The crayfish season is barely visible in ever. His restaurant career began at the kitch- them on the table. The crayfish feast is served Rosendahl’s work. In his private life, he con- en sink washing dishes when he was 12 years on platters made of bark found in the nearby fesses, he absolutely loves crayfish parties. old and continued in Helsinki restaurants forest. He fetches a chilled bottle of schnapps – In my opinion, crayfish parties would be Kuu, Karelia and Mecca before he ventured - a lifter of spirits - from the dressing room of out of place in a restaurant. Crayfish parties out on his own in Kuopio. the sauna, an inseparable part of any Finnish are meant to be held at summer cabins among celebration. friends, cooking the crayfish according to a Created amid the calm, lakeland scenery, – A good vodka is the only true way to wash secret family recipe, serving them with what- the menu is Mikko Rosendahl’s vision of a down crayfish. At this down-to-earth party, a ever accompaniment you like, and, of course, crayfish theme that respects tradition, but little colour in your cheeks is allowed. filling the schnapps glasses. stands out from the norm. The menu revolves

Crayfish Dill purée Crayfish 2 bunches of dill 200 g crayfish tails 1 dl milk 2 tbs mayonnaise celebration and dill 1 g Xantana dill 1 tsp dijon mustard Text Pekka Nurmi :: Photos Jussi Koivunen salt and dijon Summer evenings 0.5 dl reduced stock from the crayfish Parboil the dill in boiling water and then cool anise spirit to freshen it quickly. Add the rest of the raw ingredients and blend until smooth. Season. Reduce the crayfish stock and use it to sea- son the crayfish. Mix together all raw ingre- dients and check the amount of salt. Garnish with spruce shoots, wild herbs, dill and dried, crumbled bread. Lakka Joy nro 2/2012 31 2 pcs zander fillet, preferably caught from Lake Kallavesi POPLE Blueberry 2 tbs butter 100 g blueberries Grilled zander 30 g icing sugar 2 shallots 300 g seasonal mushrooms 100 g strained yoghurt 0.5 dl Erittäin Hienoa Konjakkia a vanilla pod XO (Very Fine Cognac) 8 new season potatoes Strain the yoghurt using a sieve and dill cheesecloth overnight in the cold. Mix the wild herbs icing sugar and the seeds from the vanilla pod into the strained yoghurt. Marinate Salt the zander about an hour before cook- the blueberries in POPLE to suit your ing. Fry the mushrooms and chopped onion tastes. Garnish the dish with edible flow- in butter over a mild heat for a long time. ers, meringue, pistachio nuts and white Season with salt and pepper. Add the co- chocolate. gnac and let simmer. Boil the potatoes with plenty of salt in water flavoured with dill. Grill the zander. Garnish the dish with dill, or even chick-weed from the garden. Blueberr y milk

Lakka Joy No 2/2012 33 Export products

Gustav Blueberry Gustav Cloudberry Gustav Vodka Vodka Liqueur

40 % alc.vol. 40 % alc.vol. 21 % alc.vol. Marskin ryyppy 0,7 l 0,7 l 0,5 l (Mannerheim’s Schnapps) 6 bottles / case 6 bottles / case 6 bottles / case Sugar: 2 g/l Sugar: 15 g/l Sugar: 250 g/l in a gift box Lakka Cloudberry Flavoured vodka Mesi fortified Colour: clear Colour: clear Colour: golden yellow 40 % vol. wine Nose: delicate grain Nose: aromatic Nose: fresh, cloudberry 15 % vol. 0,5 l 15 % vol. Taste: dry, soft Taste: soft, blueberry Taste: medium bodied, smooth 0,75 l 12 bottles/ case 0,75 l 12 bottles/ case 12 bottles/ case

Gustav Arctic Bramble Loimu Vintage Liqueur Gustav Raspberry Gustav Arctic Glögg 2012 Liqueur Cranberry Liqueur 21 % vol. 21 % alc.vol. 0,75 l 0,5 l 21 % alc.vol. 21 % alc.vol. 6 bottles / case 6 bottles / case 0,5 l 0,5 l Sugar: 310 g/l 6 bottles / case 6 bottles / case Colour: dark pink Sugar: 250 g/l Sugar: 290 g/l Nose: aromatic, rich in arctic Colour: red Colour: bright red bramble aromas Nose: clear raspberry Nose: fresh, cranberry Taste: Quite sweet, aromatic, Taste: medium-bodied, Taste: medium bodied, acidic round, full bodied, warm lightly acidic berries POPLE Blueberry POPLE Strawberry 15 % vol. 15 % vol. 0,7 l 0,7 l 6 bottles/ case 6 bottles/ case

Cloudberry [ Rubus chamaemorus ] Golden yellow, fruity, aromatic, rich, moderately acidic. Grows near Arctic Circle in Scandinavia and Russia. Arctic Bramble [ Rubus arcticus ] Gustav Blueberry- Ruby red, aromatic, developed, blossoming, rich, fairly sweet, Raspberry Liqueur moderately acidic. One of the world’s rarest berries grows in Northern Finland. 21 % alc.vol. POPLE Blueberry POPLE Strawberry Raspberry [ Rubus idaeuss ] 15 % vol. 0,5 l 15 % vol. Red, sweet, aromatic, slightly acidic. Red or European rasp- 0,05 l 6 bottles / case 0,05 l berry grows in Northern Europe. 72 bottles/ case Sugar: 290 g/l 72 bottles/ case Colour: dark red Arctic Cranberry [ Vaccinium oxycoccos, Nose: berries, warm Vaccinium microcarpum ] Taste: full-bodied, well-balanced, Red, aromatic, berry, somewhat dry, light, very acidic Grows smooth near Arctic Circle in Scandinavia and Russia. Blueberry [ Vaccinium myrtillus ] Blue, soft, sweet, warm, light berry flavour, slightly acidic. Grows in Northern Europe.

Lakka Joy nro 2/2012 35 CLOUDY LUXURY

2 cl L&P Lakka-Light liqueur A dash of Fee Brothers Blum Bitters A dash of Pople Blueberry Dry sparkling wine or champagne

Chill a small white winw glass with plenty of ice and measure the ingredients into the glass. Carefully pour the bubbly into the glass. Decorate with rose petals.

The secret of this unique liqueur is the arctic cloudberry, which grows wild near the arctic circle. During the short northern summer, the midnight sun gives the cloudberry a uniquely clear flavour. A rich, amber-coloured liqueur with a strong aroma is created, in which you can sense the aromas of wetland flowers, honey and apricots. Best on its own, but also good in various cocktails.