Patriot PAWS

Puppy Raiser Manual

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Table of Contents______

Section 1: Welcome! Welcome to the Team ...... 1 Patriot PAWS Mission, History and Goals ...... 2-3 A Letter from Lori Stevens, Executive Director ...... 4

Section 2: Getting Started Getting Your House Ready For Your Patriot PAWS Dog ...... 5 Food, Equipment and Supplies for Your Service Dog ...... 6-8 Helpful Hints: What to Expect Your First Week ...... 9-10

Section3: Being the Best Puppy Raiser You Can Be A Day in the Life of a Puppy Raiser ...... 11-13 Puppy Raiser Responsibilities ...... 14 Good Training Practices ...... 15 A Note about Praise and Correction ...... 16-17 Socializing Your Service Dog ...... 18-19 Puppy Raiser Classes ...... 20 The Art of Prevention and Supervision ...... 21-22

Section 4: Training a Patriot PAWS Dog A Quick Look at Clicker Training ...... 23-24 Positive Reinforcement ...... 25-26 How Dogs Learn and Communicate ...... 27-28 The Four Stages of Learning ...... 29-30 Achieving Fluency ...... 31-33 The 3 D’s…Duration, Distance, Distraction ...... 34-35

Section 5: Patriot PAWS Service Dog Cues and Behaviors Basic and Advanced Cues ...... 37-41 Other Behaviors Your Dog May Know ...... 42 Behaviors to Practice ...... 43

Section 6: Important Information about Dogs Communicating With Your Dog ...... 45-50 Specific Puppy Personalities ...... 51-54 Developmental Stages and Socialization ...... 55-60

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Section 7: Health and Safety General Medical Information ...... 61-64 Basic Nutrition ...... 65-68 Grooming ...... 69-72 Minor First Aid ...... 73-77 Common Hazards and Poisons around the Home ...... 78-80

Section 8: Glossary of Terms and Bibliography

Section 9: Frequently Used Forms

Section 10: Miscellaneous

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Welcome to the Team!

Our Patriot PAWS team began with our Founder and Executive Director, Lori Stevens, who started Patriot PAWS in 2006. Since then it has grown to include many trainers, assistant staff members, Texas Department of Criminal Justice (TDCJ) staff and women inmates, as well as countless volunteers. All of us are working towards the same goal of helping those who have served our country be able to live their lives to the fullest.

It’s time for you to get ready for an exciting journey! A journey filled with unending love, joy, frustration, tears, friendships and truly humbling experiences. You will meet and train dogs who will lift your spirits and sometimes try your patience. You will meet fellow puppy raisers who will share their experiences, their laughter and their tears. You will meet trainers who will guide your training with their expertise, their humor and their understanding. And you will meet the veterans who will share their stories and their gratitude. You will become a member of the Patriot PAWS family.

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Our Mission______

The mission of Patriot PAWS is to train and provide service dogs of the highest quality, at no cost, to disabled American veterans and others with mobile disabilities in order to help restore their physical and emotional independence. Patriot PAWS intends to build partnerships with the state and community organizations to help develop and support this goal.

Our History______

Patriot PAWS Service Dogs organization was officially designated as a 501 (c) (3) organization in February 2006 and is a certified member of Assistance Dogs International (ADI). The founder of Patriot PAWS, Lori Stevens, is a Certified Pet Dog Trainer (CPDT), Karen Pryor Academy (KPA) graduate with over 20-years experience.

As the story goes…In February 2005, a group of disabled veterans from the Dallas VA hospital asked Lori to assist them in training their service dogs. It was at this time that Lori learned about the plight of disabled veterans in need of service dogs. As a result, in February 2006, Patriot PAWS Service Dogs was established.

In 2008 Patriot PAWS partnered with the Texas Department of Criminal Justice to have women inmates train the dogs. This partnership provides opportunities for the inmates to have a job while serving their sentence, learning a career trade and giving back to the community. It allows them to be a part of something bigger than themselves and provides Patriot PAWS a much needed volunteer base to train quality service dogs. The location of both the Lane Murray and Crain units is in Gatesville, Texas.

Our Goal______

Patriot PAWS trains service dogs to perform various behaviors including help for patients with post-traumatic stress disorder (PTSD). Patriot PAWS primary goal is to increase an individual’s self-sufficiency. Services performed by each dog depend on the needs of the owner. The following are a list of some services provided to assist disabled veterans in accomplishing daily tasks that would otherwise be difficult or impossible:

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• Get help in emergencies • Recognize and avert PTSD episodes • Pick up and retrieve items • Open and close doors • Pull wheelchairs • Provide bracing to stand, walk, and sit down • Help with chores, such as laundry • Take off shoes and socks

Patriot PAWS’ continued commitment is to work with the matched veterans and dogs as they learn to work together as a team.

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A Letter from Lori Stevens, Founder/Executive Director of Patriot PAWS Service Dogs______

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Getting Your House Ready For Your Patriot PAWS Dog______

One of the most important things you can do before your Patriot PAWS dog comes to your home is have a discussion with your family. Everyone needs to “be on the same page” as far as training and expectations are concerned. Some decisions that need to be made beforehand are: Will the dog be allowed on the furniture or beds? Where will the dog sleep, go to the bathroom, play? How and where will the dog be fed? Will all rooms be accessible to the dog? How the dog must enter/leave the house. The more consistent the dog’s training, the less confused he will be and the quicker he will learn.

As trainers, we take into consideration many variables before placing a dog in your home. Those variables include: family’s activity level, children or elderly people living in the home, puppy raiser’s feelings regarding age of dog, etc. Please don’t hesitate to let us know what type of dog you think will work best in your home environment. These criteria may change as you continue through the program, so please keep us updated as they occur. We always want to set both the dog and the family up for success.

You will need to have some supplies and equipment before your dog comes to your home. These supplies are listed for you on the next few pages. Please read through those items, before getting your dog.

Doggy Proof Your Home

Just as you would “baby proof” a home, you need to “doggy proof” your home inside and out. You will need to start thinking, “If he can reach it I need to move it.” This includes removing easily accessible items from countertops, beds, dressers, etc. Common items include, but are not limited to, shoes, socks, underwear, clothes, electrical cords, chemicals, medications, children’s toys, pet food, people food (especially left on counters), important papers, hoses, and pillows. If you don’t want the dog to go in certain rooms you will need to block off the area or close the door. If you have any doubt about an item the rule of thumb is “better safe than sorry.”

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Food, Equipment and Supplies______

Your Patriot PAWS dog will need certain supplies while in your home. Some of the supplies will be given to you by Patriot PAWS when you receive your dog. Some of the supplies you will need to furnish. Please remember that all supplies you buy for your Patriot PAWS dog are tax deductable. On the next few pages you will find lists of supplies given to you and those you will need to provide. You will also find some explanations or descriptions of some of the equipment. Please read on for further information.

Supplied by Patriot PAWS:

• A Martingale Collar • A Nylon Leash • Dog Binder (which includes medical and training information about your dog) • Gentle Leader • Patriot PAWS vest • State of Texas Law Card • Treat Pouch • Patriot PAWS T-Shirt • Cards and Brochures • Puppy Raiser Handbook (includes Dog Cue Guide)

Provided by the Puppy Raiser:

• Dog Food (a trainer will let you know your dog’s nutritional plan) • Kennel (large, wire) • Mat used for “place” • Dog Bowls (food and water) • Grooming Supplies (nail clippers, brush, toothbrush and dog toothpaste, shampoo) • Treats (to be included in amount fed daily, not in addition to regular dog food given) • Toys: o Suggested: Nyla Bones, rubber balls, Kongs, tennis balls (must supervise play), stuffed/squeaky toys (must supervise play) o Not suggested: Rawhides, real meat bones, ripped/chewed toys, small items (choking hazards)

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Additional Information about Food, Equipment and Supplies (cont.)

Martingale collars - The Martingale collar is much like a buckle collar, but instead of having a buckle, a section of the collar is a free-moving circle of either the collar material or chain. When fitted correctly, the dog should not be able to back out of the collar. Because of its construction, this collar will only constrict to a certain point, whereas, a slip collar can continue to tighten to the point of choking the dog. Unless otherwise directed, all Patriot PAWS dogs wear Martingale collars. We use Martingales because they are no-choke collars. When the dog pulls, the collar tightens up but stops just short of choking your dog.

The collar should be able to easily slide over the dog’s head, but it shouldn’t be so loose that the dog can back out of it. A good rule of thumb: when the collar is pulled tight there should be about 1” between the free moving sections (each ring) of the collar. There should be a two-finger space between the dog’s neck and the collar. Please check the fitting periodically. If you find the collar is becoming small on your dog and it has been adjusted to its full extent, let a trainer know.

Please Note: Choke chains, shock collars, head haltis, prong collars are NOT to be used.

Vest - Patriot PAWS Service Dogs wear a vest to identify them while in public. Vests are required by the ADA laws for public access. Any time you are in public your dog should have a vest on. The vest goes over the head to fit on the back. It will fasten under the belly for a secure fit. Please be sure your dog’s vest is clean and fits well.

Gentle Leader – The Gentle Leader is a head collar, not a muzzle. The Gentle Leader was made with the horse trainer’s knowledge of “where the head goes, the body will follow.” While wearing the gentle leader, the dog can eat, drink, and play like normal. The neck strap applies pressure to the back of the neck in the same way the mother applies pressure by picking her puppies up by the neck. The neck strap also creates opposition reflex. As the dog feels pressure at the back of the neck, he will go in the opposite direction of the pressure. This makes the dog pull backwards, bringing him back into position with you, as you are walking. Think of it as a seat belt, most of the time you don’t need it, BUT WHEN YOU REALLY NEED ONE YOU'RE HAPPY IT’S THERE.

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Treats – You will use treats to reward your dog for a correct behavior. There are numerous choices for feeding your dog. It is important to remember that treats are to be included in the amount of food you feed your dog daily, not in addition to that amount. Example: My dog eats 3 cups of food daily. I know that I am going to Wal-Mart later in the day. I will give her 1 cup of food in the morning, saving the other ½ cup for my Wal-Mart trip (some kibble mixed with hotdog pieces). That evening I will feed her another 1 ½ cups of Pro Plan, equaling 3 cups for the day.

• When training a new behavior or training in a new or high distraction area, you will want to use a high value treat (HVT). A high value treat is something you don’t use every day making that treat very rewarding. Some examples of HVT’s are: Natural Balance, hotdogs, cheese or chicken. • When training at home or maintaining an already learned behavior, use kibble as the reward. If you overuse HVT’s, the dog no longer associates them as higher value and it loses its value. • You can also use toys such as balls, Frisbees, or anything your dog likes to play with as a reward. Be creative and watch and see what your dog likes the most. • Remember to use your jackpot. A jackpot is used for an exceptionally good effort and tells the dog they are earning extra rewards. Say “Jackpot” and give your dog three treats in succession. Use lots of praise as you give the treat.

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Helpful Hints: What to Expect the First Week ______

Our wonderful puppy raisers have shared their experiences and ideas that will help you during your first week with your Patriot PAWS dog. These ideas not only apply to the first dog you have, but to subsequent dogs you will train in the future. Please read through the list below and don’t hesitate to ask a trainer or fellow puppy raiser if you need more explanation.

Allow your dog to acclimate to his new environment. A few days of bonding at home before taking your dog out into public will do wonders. Also, depending on how old your dog is, be cautious about where you take him. Since you don’t know how this dog will react (fear issues, barking, etc.), you want to start in low distraction environments for a short amount of time and then build up his tolerance of new and exciting places. Your dog will also need to acclimate to the new sights, sounds, people, etc. especially if he is just coming from prison. You may find him barking at sounds and new people. This may take one to three weeks for the dog to get used to this new place.

Call your trainer for advice if you think it is necessary.

It is a good idea to tether the dog to you for the first few days or the first week. You can use a leash attached to a belt or a body leash to do this. This keeps your dog in view at all times until he becomes acclimated to your home. Even after the dog is taken off the tether, you should still be able to see where he is and what he’s doing. Think of it this way, you wouldn’t let a two year old child wander around the house or play in other rooms without supervision. Then don’t let your dog do it.

The dog may not exhibit the level of competency with the cues that they are said to know. Again, give the dog time to acclimate to you and his new environment before asking him to do the laundry and make the bed.

Sometimes you have to “go back to kindergarten.” If your dog looks as if he has no idea how to “place” and you know that he knows the cue, you may have to go back to his early training and re-train that cue. Get out your clicker!

Crate your dog during the day and at night. It is in our nature to want to have our new dog with us all day long. It is in our dog’s nature to be with us. That being said, it is the puppy raiser’s responsibility to continue crate training while the dog is with you. If the dog isn’t put in his crate for three months because you like having him with you, it will be difficult for the next person raising this same dog when he or she does need to crate him.

“Doggy Proof” your home before your dog walks in the door. This includes closing doors to rooms you don’t want the dog to go, picking up items you don’t want chewed, and moving items from the coffee table that are at “tail height.” You may wish to invest in a bottle of “Bitter Apple” or some other kind of taste deterrent to spray things the dog wants to chew on such as the base boards or molding, wooden legs of tables/chairs, etc.

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The dogs are hand-fed in prison, so it may take some a few days before they learn to eat out of a bowl.

Take your dog out every hour to go to the bathroom the first few days you have him. Show him where the door is, where the bell is (to alert you that he needs to go out) and the proper potty place in your yard each time.

Take the dog to training classes at Petsmart, Petco, etc. These classes teach YOU how to train in addition to the dog getting some training around other dogs.

Dogs bond to their humans at different levels. Don’t feel hurt if your dog doesn’t automatically “love” you. Build the bond…it will come.

Expect to make lots of mistakes and feel overwhelmed at times. It will get easier.

It will be difficult to give up each dog when the time comes, especially the first one. You will send us emails and call us letting us know that you will keep him or her if this dog doesn’t make it in the program. But you will also come to realize that each dog has a higher purpose in life and you are helping him fulfill that purpose.

Your dog will have the occasional “I don’t feel like it” day, just like us humans. Don’t fret about it.

Here is a list of expectations that each puppy raiser goes through time and time again. They are good things for all of us to keep in mind.

• Expect the dog to be smarter than you feel. • Expect to smile a lot and belly laugh, too. • Expect to learn to think fast and move faster! • Expect each day to get better. • Expect the dog not to act the way it does in class. • Expect that you might have to call a trainer for help. • Expect to carry your list of cues everywhere you go so that you can better communicate with your new guest. • Expect to give a lot of treats. • Expect to be confused. • Expect to spend some initial time showing the dog his place and saying “leave it” a lot. • Expect to be humbled. • Expect to make mistakes…lots of them! • Expect the unexpected. • Expect to have fun!

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A Day in the Life of a Puppy Raiser______

Every day is filled with training opportunities. You don’t always have to set up training sessions, because many times the training sessions are right there in your everyday routine. Read the following to see how these opportunities pop up for you and your Patriot PAWS’ dog. Remember to reward your dog (using food, play, or praise) as you practice these behaviors throughout the day.

Time to Wake Up! When getting your dog out of the kennel, the following cues are practiced: • Sit (before the door opens) • Wait (while the door is open, dog must wait to be released) • Release (dog can come out of kennel)

Time to Potty! When your dog needs to potty, the following cues are practiced: • Ring bell (it “magically” makes the door open!) • Paw (before your dog goes out the door or before going potty on the grass) • Sit and Wait (before walking out the door) • Tug (the door open if your door has a tug) • Go Now (to have dog potty)

Time for Breakfast! When you are making a meal, the following cues are practiced: • Place (put your dog on a mat/bed while making the meal) • Stay (don’t forget to tell your dog to stay on his place) • Kennel (you may want your dog to kennel instead of place) • Release (when you are finished and ready for your dog to be with you) • Get bottle (Do you need a bottle of water with your food?) • Under (dog can “down” under the table, if acceptable) • Leave it (if food drops tell your dog to “leave it”)

Getting Ready For Your Day! When you are showering, getting dressed, etc., the following cues are practiced: • Tug (bathroom door) • Place (put your dog on a mat/bed while getting ready) • Stay (don’t forget to tell your dog to stay on his place) • Uh-ohs (drop some items as you are getting ready so your dog can pick them up) • Get it (what can you tell your dog to get? Towel, shoes, socks, etc.) • Push (doors and drawers under sink)

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Time to Play! Don’t forget to include play time in your daily schedule.

• Get it (ball, toy, etc.) • Drop it (ball, toy, etc.) • Give (ball, toy, etc.) • Tug (rope toy, stuffed toy, etc.) • Wait (tell dog to “wait” before throwing toy, say “get it” to release her)

Going On an Outing! When you go out into public, the following cues are practiced: • Lap (have your dog “lap” before getting his vest and gentle leader on) • Get Dressed (dog offers head to get vest and gentle leader on) • Sit (to place gentle leader and leash on, if not on lap) • Sit, Wait (before opening door) • Tug (tug door open/closed) • Load up (into vehicle) • Wait, Release (out of vehicle) • Loose Leash Walking (get leash, let’s go, side, get back, go through) • Greetings from others (sit, wave, down, stay) • Say prayers (show others how our dogs pray for the soldiers)

At The Office! When at the office, the following cues are practiced: • Place, Stay (a special spot for your dog to spend her time) • Under, Stay (that special spot may be under your desk) • Uh-oh • Get it • Leave it • Tug (drawers and doors) • Get help (you may wish to tell your coworkers before practicing this)

More Play Time!

Going Out To Lunch/Dinner! When you go to a restaurant, the following cues are practiced: • Under (a good place for your dog while you eat) • Leave it (in case food drops) • Flip (if your dog’s body is sticking out too far or needs to shift to the other side) • Touch (to move your dog to a more convenient spot) • Down, Stay (while you eat)

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Going For a Walk! When you take your dog for a walk, the following cues are practiced:

• Get leash • Loose Leash Walking cues: Let’s go, side, get back • Leave it (if your dog sees/hears something and alerts to it) • Look (to have dog look at object/person. Don’t forget to treat with food.) • Touch (to refocus your dog’s attention) • “Name” (say your dog’s name to have him look at you/refocus attention) • Paw, Go Now

It’s Time for Bed! When putting your dog to bed, the following cues are practiced: • Kennel • Place, Stay • Load up (on bed)

You’ve had a great day practicing cues! It’s time for both of you to get some rest!

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Puppy Raiser Responsibilities______

The goal of a Patriot PAWS puppy raiser is to take a puppy/dog into your home to care for and train so that he can go onto to be a well-mannered member of the community. In order to achieve that goal, Patriot PAWS asks that you:

• Follow the mission and goals of the Patriot PAWS organization • Effectively communicate with the Patriot PAWS trainers and ask for assistance when needed • Positively represent Patriot PAWS to the public and other team members • Cooperate and work with Patriot PAWS members to achieve the desired goals

As a loving handler of our Patriot PAWS dogs, it is each puppy raiser’s responsibility to:

• Follow the guidelines set forth by the Patriot PAWS training staff having to do with the care and training of each dog • Provide shot records for any personal pets before beginning the program • Attend two or more Patriot PAWS training sessions per month • Send in monthly reports to Patriot PAWS trainers (see Section 9) • Take your puppy/dog to a dog obedience course (Petco, Petsmart, etc.) • Provide medical treatment while the dog is in your care (see Section 7) • Provide monthly heartworm and flea/tick preventions (See Section 7) • Keep the dog healthy and well-groomed (See Section 7) • Socialize your dog to age appropriate situations (Section 3: Socializing Your Service Dog) • Provide a report of the dog’s progress before returning the dog to Patriot PAWS • Provide dog sitting if you plan to go on vacation while you have your Patriot PAWS’ dog. This can be done by asking another puppy raiser, using a trusted family member or by boarding your dog at a trusted facility.

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Good Training Practices______

We know that each puppy raiser will train just a little bit differently, and we expect that. But please remember that our dogs are trained using certain methods (e.g. clickers, positive reinforcement, rewards) and are trained using specific cues (words for each behavior asked). We have strived to make the training at Patriot PAWS as consistent as possible, but it up to each handler to help in that respect. Below are some practices that will guide you in your training:

• Keep it fun! Our dogs learn through play. If you can make training fun they will be more likely to do what you ask of them. Using an enthusiastic voice, rather than a monotone voice, helps motivate the dog while training. • Keep it positive! Our training is based in positive reinforcement (See Section 4: Positive Reinforcement). Our dogs will shut down if you use leash correction, yelling or dominance. Patriot PAWS training is reward based, meaning we use food, praise and play to reward behaviors that we want; we ignore or find alternative behaviors for those we don’t want. • Focus on the basics first. We believe in building a strong foundation so that more advanced behaviors will be reliably performed. • Ask for assistance when you are unsure. Patriot PAWS trainers are here to assist you, but we can’t unless you let us know what problems you’re having. Please let us know how we can support you. • Keep training sessions short. You will want to train your dog in three to five minute sessions, five times daily. Remember, too, that you will be doing a lot of training during your everyday routines. • Review your cues. Until you are sure of the cues you are giving, review them daily. Make sure your verbal and visual cues coincide with what is in your training manual (See Section 5: Patriot PAWS Service Dog Cues). • Come to Puppy Raiser Training Classes. Classes are held on several Fridays throughout the month. You will read more about the advantages of attending these classes further on in Section 3. • Learn as much as you can about how dogs communicate and what a dog’s body language tells you. • Apply appropriate self-evaluation on your training and adjust your methods if needed. A trainer can help you with this.

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A Note about Praise and Correction______

Praise

Patriot PAWS uses three forms of reinforcement to let our dogs know that they have performed a desired behavior correctly. The three reinforcers are: food, play and praise. The one focused on in this section is praise (see Section 4: Positive Reinforcement, for more information on the three reinforcers). Praise is an effective way to communicate with your dog. This positive reward, when linked to a positive emotional attitude from you, will elicit positive actions now and increase the likelihood that the dog will repeat the behavior in the future.

Praise can be alternated with food and play to reward your dog after he hears the verbal marker “yes” or the “click.” There are many types of praise that can be used to reward your dog. You can easily praise your dog by a stroke of his fur, a “good boy/girl,” or other words you find appropriate. Praise is a wonderful reinforcer to use when you’re trying to vary the reward or when you’re using a variable reward schedule.

Correction

A common form of correction often used with dogs is the word “NO.” The dog jumps on people – “NO!” The dog gets into the garbage – “NO!” The dog barks at another dog – “NO!” Although that’s the first thing that pops into our heads, it’s not very useful information for the dog. Instead, opt to tell him what you want him to do, give him an alternate behavior, or get rid of the problem until you can manage it.

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Examples:

• Alternate behavior: o Problem: The dog jumps on people. o Try teaching an alternate behavior – When the dog is coming towards you have the dog sit (he can’t sit and jump at the same time). This will take practice. Do it with family members first and be consistent. • Tell him what you want him to do: o Problem: The dog barks at another dog. o Try telling him what you want him to do by teaching him the “Look” cue. You are giving the dog permission to “look,” but don’t bark. • Get rid of the problem: o Problem: The dog gets into the garbage. o Get rid of the problem by putting the garbage into a closet or another closed off place until you can come up with a plan to keep the dog from getting into it.

Go by this rule of thumb: correct the behavior, not the dog.

Correction comes in many forms. Some trainers correct dogs by popping the leash (a hard, upwards tug on the leash), by using choke, shock or prong collars, by using force or by dominance. Because Patriot PAWS uses positive reinforcement, we know that there is a more humane, quicker and less stressful way of getting the same or better results than traditional correction methods. Patriot PAWS will not tolerate the use of the above correction methods.

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Socializing Your Service Dog______

Socializing your Patriot PAWS dog is your most important job as a puppy raiser. Our dogs need to experience the world to become confident members of the community.

Here are some suggestions of places to bring your Patriot PAWS’ dog and what kinds of treats we suggest to use while there. Remember, the higher the distraction area the higher the value of the treat should be. You need to be more valuable than any other thing in that environment.

The below suggestions are for the “average” dog. There are always going to be variables that change. Wal-Mart may be a medium distraction level area on a Tuesday morning, but a high distraction area on a Sunday afternoon. Use your best judgment according to: the age of the dog, what your dog considers “high value,” time of day in store, etc.

Distraction Level Treat Suggestions______Low: Regular dog food, green beans, Inside your home natural dog cracker treats Home Depot Lowes Ace Hardware Clothing Stores Small Drug Stores

Medium: Outside your house (yard) Use regular dog food PLUS hot Wal-Mart dogs, chicken, cheese, Natural Balance rolls, Pupperoni, sweet Target potatoes, carrots Restaurants Church Hair Dresser Doctor’s Office Hospitals Movie Theaters

High: Schools Kids’/Adult Ball Games Regular dog food PLUS liver, Parks (kids/dogs) steak, cheeseburgers, peanut Indoor Activity Centers (arcade, Shenanigans, etc.) butter Bass Pro, Cabela’s, Pet Stores Fairs, Festivals, Concerts

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Socialization: Where? What? When

It is important to know that dogs of different ages need different types of socialization. Some of this is due to health reasons. Puppies should be fully vaccinated before entering “the world” outside their own backyards. One of the biggest factors is the developmental stage the dog is in at the time (see Section 6: Developmental Periods). Maturity also plays a role. Some dogs haven’t developed appropriate potty habits or social habits. Those will need to be practiced at home and/or in low distraction areas before going out to malls, festivals or the airport.

Below is a chart that gives age appropriate outings to do with your Patriot PAWS Service Dog. Please remember to prepare your dog by having him dressed in a clean vest, gentle leader and leash and by having treats that match the distraction level (previous page). You will also need to keep in mind weather, temperature (air and surface) and time of day. It is also a good idea to bring a travel or collapsible bowl for water.

Age of Dog Suggested Environments/Activities Avoid

Puppy classes, homes of friends/family, Crowded areas, parks, dog 2-5 months short walks, workplace (crate puppies) parks, strange dogs, loud areas, large demos

Above list plus…demos, obedience class, low Busy malls, concerts, fairs, 5-7 months distraction areas (see previous page), large demos restaurants during quiet periods

Above list plus…medium distraction areas Places where the puppy raiser 7-10 months (see previous page), malls, demos (will vary may not be able to pay close by dog) attention to the dog’s public behavior Above list plus…parades, airports, malls Any places puppy raiser is 10 + months during busy periods/seasons, concerts, fairs uncomfortable going

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Puppy Raiser Classes______

Each month Patriot PAWS trainers hold Puppy Raiser Classes. These classes are wonderful opportunities to enhance your training and to meet with fellow puppy raisers and their dogs. We hold three different types of classes:

• Scheduled – all puppy raisers are expected to attend • Optional – all puppy raisers are invited to attend, new puppy raisers are asked to attend • Mandatory – all puppy raisers must attend mandatory sessions. These are held about four times a year.

As a puppy raiser you will find these classes beneficial because you are able to:

ü Learn to appreciate the goals and mission of Patriot PAWS ü Learn the Patriot PAWS methods of training dogs ü Learn new skills and /or cues that are developed as the organization grows ü Learn how to communicate with your dog ü Socialize your Patriot PAWS dog with other service dogs and learn about appropriate dog to dog interaction ü Learn ideas from other puppy raisers ü Go on outings with the trainers

Puppy Raiser classes give the trainers an opportunity to:

ü Teach new cues, behaviors and skills ü Keep the training among offenders, puppy raisers and trainers consistent ü Evaluate the progress of each dog ü Make appropriate matches of dogs to puppy raisers (personalities/activity levels) ü Update puppy raisers on important information ü Make dog switches ü Problems solve and answer questions that puppy raisers may have about training, policies and other dog related questions

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The Art of Prevention and Supervision______

Prevention It is much easier to prevent a problem than it is to fix it after it’s been happening for a period of time. As Paul Owens states in his book Good Habits for Great Dogs, “A successful environment is one where a dog can’t do anything you don’t want her to do.” In order to prevent problems related to your service dog you need to keep the end in mind. At Patriot PAWS we expect our fully trained service dogs to be well-mannered (not perfect) members of the community. We expect good manners in the house as well as in public. Barking erratically, jumping on people when greeting, counter surfing, digging, biting, etc. are all unacceptable behaviors. These behaviors can be prevented or fixed immediately with appropriate knowledge and training.

Prevention is also a good way to protect treasured items in your house. It’s a good idea to keep shoes, children’s toys, books, etc. off of the floor and out of reach of the dog. It is also easier to put the dog in a kennel when you leave instead of coming home to find a disaster. By thinking ahead, you can prevent many problems from occurring.

Supervision It is important to supervise your dog closely while in your home, outside and in public places. Just “being” there isn’t enough. Being there and watching your dog will prevent problems from happening. For example, it isn’t supervision when your dog on the floor beside your couch while you watch an engrossing movie, if your dog is chewing on the coffee table leg. In that same scenario, you can be watching the movie and every few minutes check on your dog to see what he is doing. You may also wish to give him a Nyla Bone or treat-filled Kong which will entertain him while you are being entertained.

If the area you are in is too large to be able to keep an eye on your dog, you may need to tether him to you with a leash. This way you can supervise his actions, prevent unwanted things from occurring and reward him for making good choices. One thing you will always want to supervise your dog doing is playing with stuffed toys or balls. A dog can quickly and easily tear a stuffed toy to shreds when not carefully supervised. This situation can be a problem in many ways. While destroying the toy, the dog may have ingested some of the stuffing, pieces of the material and even the squeaker part of the toy. This can cause digestive and constipation problems and in some cases the dog may need surgery in order to remove the toy pieces. The same can be said about balls. They are easily punctured, chewed up and digested. ALWAYS supervise play with toys. If you leave your dog in his crate, unsupervised, the best option is a Kong toy that is appropriate for your dog’s weight and chewing level.

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Most importantly, you will want to supervise your dog in public. It is easy for us humans to become distracted at the store, in a restaurant or while talking to friends. If you aren’t supervising your dog he is free to roam, grab that yummy container of cookies off the store shelf or solicit attention from others. Always remember to put your dog in a sit or down stay while your attention is on something else and constantly check-in with him to see what he is doing. You may need to put him back in a stay or cut your visit short altogether. You will also need to supervise your dog around other dogs and children. Do not leave your dog unattended in those situations.

Let’s not talk about WHO chewed up the pillow. Let’s talk about who should have been SUPERVISING the pillow!

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A Quick Look at Clicker Training ______

Patriot PAWS uses the clicker as its primary training technique. In essence, a clicker is a behavior marker, an abbreviated way of saying “good boy/girl.” The sound of the clicker is an excellent marker because it is unique, quick, consistent and it identifies for the animal exactly which behavior “caused” the reinforcement. Behavioral psychologists, who first used this tool for shaping behavior, call it a secondary reinforcer. Primary reinforcers are the actual things that animals work for (e.g. food, water, physical affection, or exercise). A secondary reinforcer is a signal that is associated with actual reinforcements until it takes on some of the qualities of those reinforcers. To understand this, merely pick up your dog’s leash and ask if anyone would like to go for a walk. The leash is not the actual “walk,” the primary reinforcer, but can act as a secondary reinforcer by triggering an almost identical reaction. The clicker can be associated with many actual reinforcers such as food, affection and play. Once the clicker takes on these properties, it can be used in a number of ways.

• The clicker accurately identifies correct behavior. Because the clicker is faster than verbal praise, it is more precise. In the time it takes to say “good boy” an animal may perform the desired behavior and then move to an unwanted behavior, before the praise has time to register. In this scenario, the dog can’t tell if the trainer like the “sit” or the “jumping up on the trainer” that occurred a split second later. • The clicker can also work well from a distance. It is impractical to try and toss a treat at an animal’s mouth at the exact moment that a desirable behavior occurs. The clicker bridges the gap from the instant the animal performs the correct response and the time it takes to actually deliver a treat. Marine mammal trainers actually call this a “bridging stimulus.” • Click during the desired behavior, not after it is completed. The timing of the click is crucial. Don’t be surprised if your dog stops the behavior when he hears the click. The click ends the behavior. A treat is given after the click is sounded. • The treats should remain in the treat pouch until after the click. The click is always a promise that a reward is coming.

Anything you need your dog to know can be taught by clicker training. After the dog has learned to understand what behavior you want, how to do it and when to do it, you can replace the click with a word. Patriot PAWS uses the word “yes.”

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A Clicker Training Exercise with the Behavior “Sit”

Clickers work throughout a dog’s training from puppy to adulthood. To teach the “sit” cue with the clicker, the trainer sits on the floor with the dog and a supply of special treats (use food such as chicken, hot dog, Cheerios, cheese, dog treats in small bite-sized bits so the dog doesn’t have to spend a long time chewing and finding crumbs). The trainer watches in silence. If the dog starts to sit (or completely sits) he gets a click and a treat (one click and one treat per success) no matter how long the dog remains sitting. Each time the dog sits again, however, he gets a repeat click and a treat. After he gets the idea that the click (secondary reinforcer) precedes the treat (primary reinforcer) the trainer can add the word “sit” as the dog lowers his rear to the floor. Remember that training sessions should be kept short. Three to five minute sessions, five times a day work better than an hour of straight training.

Once the idea of action, click and treat are firmly established in the dog’s mind, additional cues are easier to teach. The advantage of this method is that it is not necessary to touch the dog to put him in position. You are building the foundation of allowing the dog to make the choice of sitting. When he chooses to behave in the way he’s been asked, he is rewarded. If he behaves incorrectly no reward is given. It’s that simple.

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Positive Reinforcement______

Karen Pryor, author of books such as Don’t Shoot the Dog and Reaching the Animal Mind, describes positive reinforcement as, “ …adding something the animal will work for to strengthen (increase the frequency of) a behavior.” For example, you would give the dog a treat for sitting in order to increase the probability that the dog will sit again. It seems like that would be the only way people who love dogs would want to train. Unfortunately, that’s not always the case. Many trainers still use correction based or traditional training. Both methods “make” the dog do what the owner wants through pain (popping the leash or using prong collars) or manipulation (pushing the dog’s bottom to the floor, making him sit). Lucky for you, Patriot PAWS uses neither of those forms of training.

Patriot PAWS dogs are taught using positive reinforcement training. Remember how happy you were if your parents gave you a dollar for every A on your report card? They made you want to do it again, right? That's positive reinforcement. Dogs don't care about money. They care about praise…and food. Positive reinforcement training uses praise and/or treats to reward your dog for doing something you want him to do. Because the reward makes him more likely to repeat the behavior, positive reinforcement is one of your most powerful tools for shaping or changing your dog's behavior. Rewarding your dog for good behavior sounds pretty simple, and it is! But to practice the technique effectively, you need to follow some basic guidelines.

• Timing is everything. Correct timing is essential when using positive reinforcement. The reward must occur immediately—within seconds—or your dog may not associate it with the proper action. For example, if you have your dog sit but reward him after he's stood back up, he'll think he's being rewarded for standing up.

• Keep it short. Dogs don't understand sentences. "Daisy, I want you to be a good girl and sit for me now" will likely earn you a blank stare. Keep cues short and uncomplicated. (See Section 4:6 Patriot PAWS Service Dog Cues)

• Consistency is key. Everyone in the family should use the same cues; otherwise, your dog may be confused. It might help to post a list of cues where everyone can become familiar with them. Consistency also means always rewarding the desired behavior and never rewarding undesired behavior.

When to use positive reinforcement

The good: Positive reinforcement is great for teaching your dog cues, and it's also a good way of reinforcing good behavior. You may have your dog sit: • before letting him out the door (which helps prevent door-darting) • before petting him (which helps prevent jumping on people)

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• before feeding him (which helps teach him good meal-time manners).

Give him a pat or a "Good dog" for lying quietly by your feet, or slip a treat into a Kong®-type toy when he's chewing it instead of your shoe.

The bad: Be careful that you don't inadvertently use positive reinforcement to reward unwanted behaviors. For example, if you let your dog outside every time he barks at a noise in the neighborhood, you're giving him a reward (access to the yard) for behavior you want to discourage.

Types of rewards

Positive reinforcement can include food treats, praise, petting, or a favorite toy or game. Since most dogs are highly food-motivated, food treats work especially well for training.

• A treat should be enticing and irresistible to your pet. Experiment a bit to see which treats work best for your pet. • It should be a very small (pea-size or even smaller for little dogs), soft piece of food, so that he will immediately gulp it down and look to you for more. Don't give your dog something he has to chew or that breaks into bits and falls on the floor. • Keep a variety of treats handy so your dog won't become bored getting the same treat every time. You can carry the treats in a pocket or fanny pack. • Each time you use a food reward, you should couple it with a verbal reward (praise). Say something like, "Yes!" or "Good dog," in a positive, happy tone of voice. Then give your dog a treat. • Petting is a reward many dogs are happy receiving. Be careful how you pet your dog. Many dogs don’t enjoy being petting on the head. Nice long strokes on the back, under the chin or on his hind quarters work wonders. Watch your dog’s body language. He will let you know what he likes or doesn’t like. • Play is also a type of reward. Some of our dogs are motivated by a ball or squeaky toy. If so keep one in your pouch or close by to reward your dog for a cue well done!

The majority of this article was taken from: The Humane Society of the United States http://www.humanesociety.org/animals/dogs/tips/dog_training_positive_reinforcement.html

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How Dogs Learn and Communicate______

Learning—A change in behavior due to experience.

Behavior—An action influenced by consequences. We reward or withhold rewards so our dogs will behave in different ways.

There are three components to every “learned” (predictable) behavior. To remember the components, think of your ABC’s. A. “A” is for antecedent. An antecedent is a cue, or something that happens before a behavior. On a daily basis, you are surrounded by all different kinds of antecedents and you adjust your behavior accordingly. B. “B” is for behavior. Behavior is what the animal does, resulting from the cue. C. “C” is for consequence. The consequence is what happens directly after the behavior. Your dog saw the antecedent, did the behavior and now comes the consequence.

Dogs are “in the moment” creatures. They aren’t looking at what happened to them this morning or what will happen to them in the future. Dogs are like sponges. They absorb the world around them. Every experience will shape a future behavior. Simply put, dogs do what works.

From the time they are puppies, dogs have learned their behavior has consequences. They learn to repeat behaviors that have desirable consequences, and avoid behaviors that have undesirable consequences.

Always remember to never allow a puppy to do what you won’t want him to do as an adult dog. What may be cute with a 15-pound puppy won’t be cute with a 90-pound dog.

There are three big factors of dog training: timing, consistency, and motivation. Equipped with these three principles, you can train a dog to do just about anything. If your dog seems confused, or if you are having trouble in your training, ask yourself if you have fully observed the big three.

First Factor—Timing Dogs learn in 1.3 seconds. Your dog associates a cause with an effect in those 1.3 seconds. This means the saying, “You have to catch them in the act,” is true. To correct a dog for a wrong behavior five seconds after the fact is meaningless to the dog. A dog believes he is being corrected or rewarded for whatever he is doing at the moment. Dogs live in the present.

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Timing means you must watch your dog closely enough that you see mistakes or successes exactly when they occur so you can either praise or correct them instantly. Waiting longer than 1.3 seconds can create confusion in your dog’s mind due to the time lapse in communication.

Second Factor—Consistency There is no gray area for dogs. Your training always must be very clear. A rule is a rule. For example, if you want your dog to sit before being petted, you must consistently reinforce that principle. If you are in a good mood and reinforce the rule, then the next day you are in a bad mood and don’t want to deal with asking for a sit, you are confusing the dog. Should he sit or not? You must be clear in your training. You must be 100% consistent. This will produce a dog that feels safe and trusting within defined rules.

Third Factor—Motivation You communicate to your dog with rewards and praise when they are doing what you want. As a result, the behaviors you reward will happen more often. You communicate with corrections (marking the behavior, withholding reward) when they make mistakes, or are breaking your clearly defined rules. As a result, the behaviors you correct will not happen as often. Both reward and withholding a reward must be motivational to the dog. Your communication must be meaningful. Your praise or rewards must be high enough in value that the dog is encouraged to strive for it in the future.

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The Four Stages of Learning______

Learning is the act of acquiring new information, understanding or skills that lead to a change in attitude, emotions or behavior. Learning occurs when your dog understands there is a relationship between a behavior and a consequence.

Understanding learning theory is important for all dog trainers. Learning theory is science- based and produces strategies that help solve canine behavior problems and teach new behaviors.

The first stage of learning is the Acquisition or Showing Stage. This is the stage in which the dog is learning new behavior. During this stage, we communicate to the dog all the necessary information needed to perform a specific behavior. The trainer should know what the final behavior will look like before asking for it.

The dog learns the behavior through capturing, targeting or shaping. Always train a new behavior in a distraction free environment. Always show the dog what you want him to do. Do not expect the dog to always understand and correctly perform the behavior. Use food and praise generously during this stage. Repetition and patience are very important. When your dog begins to anticipate what you want, you know he is beginning to understand.

The second stage is the Automatic or Fluency Stage. In this stage, the dog performs the behavior on cue, in different levels of distractions and situations, responding correctly at least eight out of ten times. In this stage of learning, the dog shows you what you have taught him. Use a lot of positive reinforcement for correct responses. Always remember that good timing and communication with your dog is critical. Once the dog has fluency in a behavior, you can increase the speed of a response and polish up the final result.

The third stage is the Application or Generalization to the Environment stage. This is the stage where you gradually increase distractions while remembering to always set your dog up for success.

In the third stage you bring the behavior under stimulus control*. You build your dog’s commitment to the training, making it fun, while he learns he has the responsibility to correctly perform the behavior. This is accomplished by the gradual introduction of distractions. Expose your dog to many different situations where they will learn from it. Praise and success are vital to the outcome.

The fourth and final stage is the Maintenance Stage. Training is a life-long process. In order to maintain a response, long-term reinforcement for the desired behavior must occur. If the dog fails to respond, you need to go a few steps back in your training.

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When you have an 80% success rate you can move on to the next step in training.

*Stimulus Control – A conditioned stimulus becomes a discriminative stimulus (or cue) when it is followed by a specific learned behavior or reaction. The response is said to be 'under stimulus control' when presentation of the particular stimulus fulfills these four conditions: the behavior is always offered when that cue is presented; the behavior is not offered in the absence of that cue; the behavior is not offered in response to some other cue; and no other behavior occurs in response to that cue.

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Achieving Fluency

While working with your dog, do you sometimes think these statements out loud…”I wish his sit wasn’t so crooked.” (problems with precision) “When I say a cue, she just takes her own sweet time before responding to it.” (problems with latency) “He has the slowest ‘down’ ever!” (problems with speed) If so you need to improve on your dog’s fluency which is defined as the animal’s ability to perform a given behavior with speed and accuracy in any environment.

Before working with the 3 D’s (another aspect of fluency which is written about on the next few pages), you’ll want to be sure your behaviors are under stimulus control and are fluent in the following areas (you’ll want to work on each behavior in this order):

• Precision – the overall polished look of the behavior • Latency – the lag time between the giving of the cue and the dog starting to respond • Speed – the time it takes to complete the behavior from start to finish

So how do you help your dog improve in these areas? Although this involves some in-depth training methods, we will explain some ways to start training your dog to achieve greater fluency. If your problems go beyond the scope of this manual, please contact your trainer.

Precision

You will need to decide what the precise, polished behavior will look like. What do you envision your dog looking like when you say the cue? Remember that each dog is different and you will have to change your criteria due to the dog’s age (you wouldn’t expect a puppy to have a precise polished sit like a 2 year old dog), breed or physical abilities.

Now you’ll need to shape for precision by

1. Defining what your precise behavior will be. It’s a good idea to write out a description of the desired behavior. Example: The dog will “down” from a sit or standing position. The dog folds back neatly into the down, rather than shifting forward and lying down front end first. Etc. 2. Create a shaping plan to reach the goal behavior. How will you get to that vision in baby steps? (Think of a staircase, your beginning behavior on the first step and your goal behavior on the last step. What steps are in the middle?) 3. Train the behavior and attach a cue

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Latency

Latency doesn’t have anything to do with how fast the dog does the behavior (that’s speed). It is about how quickly your dog responds to the cue (the number of seconds between you saying, “Sit” and the dog beginning to sit). If you want to improve your dog’s latency you will have to start by finding the average time it takes for him to respond to your cue. This is called the baseline. To find the baseline:

1. Take your clicker and 5 treats. As you cue the behavior measure the delay between the cue and the response (count seconds: 1-1,000, 2-1,000, etc. or use the alphabet method A, B, C, D, E, etc.). Write down the time for all 5 reps, add together and divide by 5. This is your average. 2. Once you’ve got your baseline, decide on your goal latency. If the baseline latency is 5 seconds you may wish your goal to be 1 second. a. You will want to be sure this is an achievable goal. b. This is something physically possible for the dog. You’ve seen the dog respond in this amount of time, he just doesn’t do it all the time. 3. To begin shaping for a lower latency you will not jump from 5 seconds to 1 immediately. You will need to shape in small increments of time. a. You can start with 4. Get out 10 treats. Ask for the behavior. Reward only those “sits” that happen in 4 seconds or less. b. If your dog responds in 5 seconds or more, ignore it and reset your dog. c. When your dog has reached 80% success at the 4 second goal, try 3.5 4. Continue shaping in this respect until you have reached your goal latency.

This is just a start. If you need more assistance please see your trainer for help.

Speed

Speed is how long it takes for the dog to complete the behavior from start to finish. Shaping for speed is a lot like shaping for latency. You will use the same steps.

1. Take your clicker and 5 treats. As you cue the behavior start timing your dog as he starts the behavior and stop when he ends the behavior (count seconds: 1–1,000, 2–1,000, etc. or use the alphabet method A, B, C, D, E, etc.). Write down the time for all 5 reps, add together and divide by 5. This is your average. 2. Once you’ve got your baseline, decide on your goal speed. If the baseline speed is 5 seconds you may wish your goal to be 2 seconds. a. You will want to be sure this is an achievable goal. b. This is something physically possible for the dog. You’ve seen the dog do the behavior in this amount of time; he just doesn’t do it all the time. c. Remember that different behaviors take longer to complete than others. I would want the speed of a sit to be 1 second, but the speed of a place to be 3 seconds.

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3. To begin shaping for a greater speed you will not jump from 5 seconds to 2 immediately. You will need to shape in small increments of time. a. You can start with 4. Get out 10 treats. Ask for the behavior. Reward only those behaviors that the dog does in 4 seconds or less. b. If your dog completes the behavior in 5 seconds or more, ignore it and reset your dog. c. When your dog has reached 80% success at the 4 second goal, try 3.5 4. Continue shaping in this respect until you have reached your goal speed.

A few helpful hints:

• If you are expecting your dog to perform with low latency and speed, you will want to be sure you are, too. Make sure you are rewarding at a high level of reinforcement and have a quick treat delivery. This will help both of you achieve the desired goal behaviors. • While training for latency, you may notice the nice precise behavior you just worked on isn’t nice and precise anymore. That’s ok. You will need to relax some criteria, like precision, in order to work on the others. Then go back and work on the other criteria.

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The 3 D’s…Duration, Distance, Distraction______

The 3 D’s help build behaviors to fluency (mastering the behavior) and help ensure they are under stimulus control. A behavior is considered to be under stimulus control when the dog responds consistently to the cue for that behavior, and does not offer the behavior unless given the cue to do so. In order to consider a behavior fluent, the dog must be able to master the test of the 3 D’s.

The 3 D’s that verify the consistency of a dog’s skill and knowledge of a behavior are duration, distance and distraction. It is important to remember these criteria when working the 3 D’s:

• The 3 D’s are added to the training regimen in order. o Start with Distraction. There are all kinds of wonderful distractions out there for your dog. If you work this first, your dog will continue to find it reinforcing to respond to your cues even when distracted. § When your dog understands that (80% ) work on Duration o Next, work on building duration so the dog learns to sustain the behavior for a long period of time. o Finally, work on distance. By this time the dog is comfortable working with the behavior for a longer duration and is not easily distracted. • The 3 D’s should be worked separately (e.g. don’t practice duration and distance at the same time until the dog has mastered both, separately). • Take your time with small steps and build a firm foundation.

The first criterion is adding distractions. A distraction is anything in the environment competing with the animal’s attention when being asked to perform a behavior. Birds, loud noises, children playing, other animals or new locations can all be distracting to your dog. Start practicing the criteria of distractions in a low distraction area (bedroom), and then gradually increase the level of distractions (living room, porch, back yard, etc.).

1. Once your dog has mastered duration and distance, choose a low distraction area to begin the exercise. 2. Have the dog sit and stay in the low distraction area for one minute and reinforce the stay. 3. Gradually increase the duration and the distraction level. 4. If the dog breaks the stay, move back to a lower level of distraction area with less duration. 5. Continue until you have reached your desired level.

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You’ll next work on duration. Duration is the length of time the dog sustains the behavior before hearing the click that marks the end of the behavior. When adding more time to duration behavior, you should reinforce the behavior in small increments. You want the dog to be consistent in the behavior before you begin to test the criteria.

An example would be:

1. Start with your dog in a sit and stay for 3-4 seconds. 2. Reinforce the stay. 3. Gradually increase the duration to 5-7 seconds. 4. Practice several times and continue to reinforce the stay. 5. You will “ping-pong” (increase and decrease) the duration until you reach your desired time. 6. Always verify your dog understands of the duration and reward your dog for his improved performance.

There are three duration stays:

Sit—(maximum of five minutes) The sit/stay should be a sitting position with no scooting and minimal turning of the body.

Down—(maximum of two hours) The dog must stay in a down position, not scooting to get closer to the handler. The dog may switch hips or make himself more comfortable, but should automatically revert to a down.

Place—(indefinite stay) The dog may stand, turn, sit and move on the “place” as long as he stays in the designated boundary.

Finally, you’ll work distance. Distance training is when the dog performs the desired behavior at a distance from the trainer, or while the trainer moves around or away from the dog.

An example would be:

1. Start with your dog in a down/stay for at least 30 seconds. 2. Reinforce the stay by clicking and treating. When treating, walk to your dog to give the treat. 3. Take one step back to put space between you and the dog. 4. Wait a few seconds, and then click the distance stay, walk to the dog and treat. 5. You will “ping-pong” (increase and decrease) the duration until you reach your desired time.

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Basic and Advanced Cues

Behavior Description Visual Cue Verbal Cue

Alert Dog paws the foot of another Dog does this cue on own when "Alert" person. getting help, but if practice is needed the cue is for the other The only time you will use this person to tap foot on floor cue is when training “get help.”

Back (from Dog moves backwards from the With dog in front of and facing "Back" front “front” position you, point with both hands position) moving them forward and backward (like flagging an airplane)

Back (from Dog moves backwards from the With your dog in the “get back” “Back” side position) “get back” position position, walk backward.

Brace From standing position dog Place hand between dogs "Brace" stiffens as handler places hands shoulder blades between shoulder blades (DO NOT PUT FULL BODY WEIGHT ON DOG)

Come Dog comes towards handler. Pat legs while moving backwards "Come" Never use the "come" cue to call your dog to do something unpleasant (ear cleaning, nail clipping, etc.)

Down (with Dog lies on ground and rests When dog is on handler's side- "Down" settle) (settles) on one hip, not on move forearm down with palm haunches. facing body

DO NOT use the word "down" to When dog is in front of handler- ask dog to move off of object. move forearm down with palm facing down

Drop It Dog drops item carried in mouth Point to floor/ground "Drop It"

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Fix It Dog lifts leg to untangle leash. Slight tug on leash. "Fix It" Make sure to hand leash low enough so dog is able to lift leg over leash.

Flip In down position dog settles on Hand in "down" position, make a "Flip" alternate hip half circle towards hip dog is laying on

Front Dog comes to the front of With both hands palm down at "Front" handler and sits chest level, move them outward in a circle and back up to chest, palms up

Get Back Dog gets back in heel position Make a 90 degree circle with left "Get Back" on left side arm from front to back into visual sit position while simultaneously taking one step back then forward with left leg

Get Bottle Dog tugs open refrigerator door, Point to location of bottle "Get Bottle" gets bottle, brings bottle to handler, then closes door (nose “Close Door” push)

Get Dressed Dog offers to put head through Show dog vest and gentle leader, "Get Dressed" (with vest vest and gentle leader, one at a one at a time and gentle time leader)

Get Help Dog goes to another person and "Get Help" paws foot/paws panic button in emergency

Get It Dog retrieves items from a Point to item "Get It" distance

Get Phone Dog gets phone and brings to "Get Phone" handler (show dog where you are placing phone, first)

Give Dog releases grip on object and Hand outstretched towards dog "Give" gives to handler

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Go Now Dog eliminates when told "Go Now"

Go Through Dog walks through doorway or "Go Through" narrow space, turns to face handler, then walks backwards until clears space

Go To Dog goes to another person "Go To" while other person gives the "come" cue

Hold (during Dog lies on handler’s legs/body Shaking body “Hold” seizure) while the person is having a seizure

Jump Dog leaps over object "Jump"

Kennel Your dog goes into kennel when Point to kennel "Kennel" told

Lap Dog puts forearms and chest Pat lap with both hands "Lap" across handler's legs

Leash Dog picks up leash and gives to Point to leash "Leash" handler

Leave It Dog ignores objects, people, "Leave It" food, etc. and gives eye contact

Let’s Go To get dog to begin walking Handler starts walking with left “Let’s Go” foot

Lights Dog turns light switch to the on “Lights” or off position

Load Up Dog jumps into vehicle, on bed, Point to place dog needs to move "Load Up" etc. to

Look Dog directs attention to a Point to person/object, then give “Look” person or object, then gives eye dog eye contact contact

Off Dog removes self from wall, "Off" counter or object.

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Paw Dog touches handler’s foot Tap foot on floor (to have dog "Paw" (before going to the bathroom) paw before going to the or object with front paw bathroom)

Place Dog moves to designated Point to mat/area "Place" mat/area and lies down

Pray From a sitting position, dog puts Handler holds left forearm out "Say Prayers" front paws on handler's arm and level with dog's head, then puts bows head (nose below right hand under forearm handler’s arm)

Pull “Pull” Dog moves handler in forward motion using a pull harness (DO NOT PRACTICE UNLESS TOLD BY TRAINER)

Push Dog pushes object with nose Point towards where you want "Push" dog to push

Release Let's dog out of stay, place, "Release" kennel etc.

See Me Dog rests head on lap/object Point at knee/object "See Me"

Side Dog moves to right side (this is Make a 90 degree circle with "Side" usually done while walking) right arm from front to back into visual sit position while simultaneously taking one step back then forward with right leg

Sit Dog sits with hind quarters on With one arm at side, bend at the "Sit" floor/ground in upright position elbow, palm up

Stand Dog stands on all four paws Handler puts hand away from "Stand" and in front of dog and has dog "touch" hand

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Stay Dog stays in position until Push your flat hand towards dog "Stay" handler releases him. If dog gets up without being released lead him back to the same place and cue him to "stay" again (no reward).

Stop! Dog stops immediately and Hand out like signal for “stop” “STOP!” (Emergency drops into down position down)

Take It Handler gives dog item to carry Give item to dog "Take It" in mouth

Touch Dog touches nose to hand or Handler holds outstretched hand "Touch" target. Also used to move dog towards dog or points to object into desired position

Tug Dog pulls object "Tug"

Uh-Oh Dog picks up dropped item that Point to item "Uh-Oh" is dropped in a 5 ft. radius of handler

Under Dog moves under indicated Point under object "Under" object and lies down

Up Dog puts paws on wall/counter. Handler points to or pats place "Up" DO NOT use to have dog where he/she wants dog to put sit/stand. paws on

Wait Dog pauses for a moment, Push your flat hand towards dog “Wait” before moving (at doorway, curb, on steps, etc.)

Wave Dog lifts front paw and waves Handler bends pointer finger up "Wave" and down

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Other Behaviors Your Dog May Know

Behavior Description Visual Cue Verbal Cue

Bow Dog lowers head down as his Bow "Bow" front paws move out and forward (stretch position)

Do Laundry Dog picks clothes off floor, Point to clothes “Get Clothes" puts them in basket, then drags basket to area designated by Point to basket "In Basket" handler (all steps are done separately) Walk to location "Tug Basket"

Find It (hide Dog stays while your hide "Find It" and seek) favorite toy or treat, then is released to find it

Kiss Dog touches nose softly to Touch cheek "Kiss" handler's cheek

Make the Dog goes to opposite side of bed Make Bed" Bed from handler and tugs sheets and cover

Pow or Bang Dog raises both paws, then falls Point hand shaped like gun at "Pow!" or and rolls over onto back dog “Bang!”

Take Off Dog takes off shoes and socks “Tug" Shoes and (be careful of toes...use the “Easy” Socks word "easy")

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Behaviors to Practice

Behavior Description Visual Cue Verbal Cue

Accepts Dog calmly allows brushing, nail Give "sit" or "down" cue, then "Sit" or Grooming clipping and brushing teeth "stay” "Down" then

Door Dog lies on a mat or in kennel Point to place, use "down" hand "Place, Down, Greetings while handler opens door to signal, use "stay" hand signal Stay" receive guests. Dog stays until released "Release"

Doorways Before going in/out of doors, Give “sit” cue "Sit, Let's Go" dog should be prompted to sit. or It is important that your dog is in control going through doorways. “Sit, Go Through”

Eye Contact/ Dog gives handler eye contact This behavior is so great we want Dog’s name Checking In the dog to offer it without a cue!

Greetings Dog does either a sit or down Give "sit" or "down" hand signal, "Sit" or From Others stay while someone pets him. then "stay" hand signal "Down" then Be sure to instruct person "Stay" petting that they are to stop if your dog gets up (keep eye contact with dog)

Loose Leash Dog walks close to handler in Start walking with left foot "Let's Go" Walking heel position on left

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Communicating With Your Dog ______

Your dog is communicating with you throughout the day. He is letting you know when he is happy, a bit afraid, kind of stressed, getting angry or just being playful. It is our job, as humans, to learn the language of dogs just as we want them to learn our language when we say sit, come, leave it, etc. The more you observe your dog and learn what all of those quick tongue flicks, tail wags and paw raises really mean, the better you’ll be able to understand what your dog is trying to tell you.

Because we speak different languages, it is easier to see how a dog is feeling by watching his body language. Dogs use their eyes, ears, mouth, tail and body carriage/posture to show other dogs and humans how they are feeling.

Eyes Ears Mouth Tail Body Posture

These signals can also be precursors as to what the dog may do next (e.g. lunge, bark, bite, play, etc.). By watching your dog, you can avert what may be a dangerous situation for your dog and/or another dog or person. You are your dog’s best advocate. It is your responsibility to step in and help your dog manage a situation before it goes beyond what you or your dog can handle. For example, if you know your dog gets stressed around children don’t bring him to a Girl Scout meeting. Start with one or two children that you know and show them how to greet the dog. Keep the greetings to a minimum duration with lots of treats flowing. Always set your dog up for success!

Stress Signals Dogs, like humans, become stressed. When a dog is in a situation or environment in which he feels unable to control, ill at ease or confused, he will show us using body signals. Not all stress is bad, therefore, when you see your dog showing you signs he is stressing don’t get anxious about it, just be aware of it and be prepared to help your dog manage or leave the situation if the stress worsens.

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Mild stress signals can be seen as yawning, lip licking, scratching, shake offs, or paw raises. Your dog may be telling you, “Um, I’m not so sure about this place. I’m getting a bit anxious because I’ve never been here before and it’s really big and loud.” When you notice your dog is feeling this way you could walk him around and let him sniff. Stay away from the loud noise, music or talking until he gets used to his surroundings. Treating him when he’s feeling insecure will help change his thinking. Coddling him at this point will show him he has every reason to be afraid, which is not how you want your dog to feel. If you’re confident, he will likely follow suit.

Yawning Lip Lick Scratching Shake Off Paw Raise

If your dog is experiencing moderate levels of stress you would probably notice his ears going back, his tail tucking, dilated pupils and/or slight tongue flicks (which are slightly different than a lip lick). Your dog may also show signs of wide-mouth panting and whining. Your dog may be communicating, “I know you’re trying to help me, but I really don’t think I like this place. I can’t see very well because of the dim lights, so I never know what’s around the corner. I would really like to go back to the car, please.” If you’ve tried to relieve your dog’s stress and now you are at this point, you need to leave the place you’re at before you’re unable to control the situation. You may want to take your dog away altogether or find a quieter, less stressful environment. Maybe your dog was fine in the lobby of the building, but as soon as you entered the large meeting room, you started noticing these stress signals. Going back to the lobby would be a good thing to do.

Ears Back, Tail Tucked Tongue Flick Dilated Pupils, Ears Back

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When your dog is showing signs of severe stress you need to move quickly to help your dog leave that area. Severe stress signals would be whale eye (eyes bulging, with the white of the eyes exposed), tail tucked, body trembling/ shivering, ears plastered back, crouching or low body posture, facial tension and/or a whole body freeze. Your dog is saying, “WHOA! I HATE THIS PLACE!” Your dog is probably seconds away from growling, barking, lunging or biting. You have waited too long and now your dog feels the need to handle the situation the best way he can at that moment. You need to move quickly and remove your dog from that situation.

Once your dog has reached this level of stress, it will likely take him several hours, sometimes days, to calm down. Do not put him back in that situation and try to manage it. It’s too late for that. Leaving immediately is the only way to solve this problem and then learn from it for the next time.

Whale Eye Crouching, Tail Tucked, Facial Tension Whole Body Freeze Ears Back

Body Postures

Below are pictures that are representative of dogs various body positions. You will be better able to know what your dog is feeling if you know what to look for. These are general postures. You need to know your dog and how he reacts to different situations, because his body posture may be slightly different than the ones pictured.

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Stressed Dog

Fearful, Worried Dog

Playful Dog

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Relaxed, Approachable Dog

Alert Dog

Fearful, Aggressive Dog

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Dog Greetings

It is important for dogs to greet each other properly. Unlike humans, dogs don’t greet each other face to face (unless they know each other very well, and even then usually will give each other a little kiss on the side of the face, not front). Rather, dogs greet each other front to back, or nose to butt. Dogs can find out all kinds of interesting things about each other when they sniff back there. To them, it’s like reading another dog’s wall on Facebook (they can find out where he’s been, who he’s been with, what he had for dinner, etc.).

Some dogs that have not been well socialized may greet another dog inappropriately. If this is your dog, it is your responsibility to help him. Ask a trainer for assistance if you think this is the case. There are times when we ask our dogs to approach other dogs inappropriately. This happens when we preoccupied, moving quickly and move our dog directly in the path of another. Our dog has to decide whether to respect our wishes and get in this dog’s space, or respect the other dog’s space and stay out of it. It is far better to know where your dog is in relation to other dogs and not put either dog in the position of defending himself if necessary. Below is a picture of a proper dog greeting.

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Specific Puppy Personalities

In order to truly understand and therefore be able to communicate with your puppy, you must first get to his level. To do this, you will need to recognize him as an individual dog that has an independent personality. Once you learn his specific personality, you will be able to customize your training to his particular needs.

There are many types of canine personalities. This chapter will attempt to give a brief description of different types of temperaments and how to effectively create a training plan for each.

Patriot PAWS trainers are eager to assist you once you ascertain your puppy's personality. If you find it difficult to figure out his temperament, a trainer will be happy to help you in this endeavor. They encourage you to contact them with any questions or concerns regarding getting to know your puppy.

The Insecure Puppy

An insecure puppy typically displays a tendency to be submissive or highly sensitive. This is especially true when you attempt to approach him as he may freeze up, often crouching down with his tail between his legs. Sometimes, insecure puppies will attempt to flee or shy away from you. Puppies like this are often afraid of new people, sounds, places, or objects, whether or not you consider them intimidating. If extremely frightened, the puppy may roll over and urinate on himself or become very excitable and "silly".

Insecure puppies take a great deal of patience to train. You will have to remain ever gentle and consistent to win them over. Puppies such as this may show reluctance to work on commands, but continue the training, giving an abundance of praise. You will have to guide him to perform each exercise. Consider taking breaks from training sessions to allow the puppy some play time. Eventually, you will be able to extend the practice session times as he begins to become more confident.

When your puppy is afraid, do not cuddle or coddle him. These actions will teach your puppy that being afraid is acceptable, even preferred. When he shows his insecurity, speak to him in a pleasant but firm tone. Do not pet your puppy until he begins to behave more confidently.

For puppies that are insecure, it is best to keep training sessions fun. By doing so, you can keep the puppy focused on you and your commands instead of all the things he finds terrifying. The

Patriot PAWS Puppy Raiser Manual Page 51 longer you work with this type of system, the sooner he will gain confidence in you and in his own abilities. The puppy should gain confidence as he matures. If you cannot get the puppy past his insecurities, he may not succeed as a Patriot PAWS Service Dog.

The Assertive Puppy

If your puppy is assertive, you'll know it because he will insist on doing things his own way. He might be mouthy, possessive with his food or toys, or press you for attention.

Assertive puppies can display their displeasure by barking or snapping, such as when you take away things they like (food or toys). You may notice these behaviors when training, such as if he takes the leash to attempt to control you. In a rapidly maturing dog, this type of action is not cute or funny. He could consider you competition for the lead role and if you do not recognize it and control it, he could become a dominant dog.

You will need to offer training and consistent behavior modifications if you are to remain a strong leader in your relationship. If you don't, then training your assertive puppy will only become more difficult.

You will want to avoid any excessive physical correction with this type of puppy. He could see your attempts at control as a challenge at which point, he might fight back. Proper training teaches your puppy that his appropriate behaviors will be rewarded, which allows you to reinforce those appropriate behaviors with even more praise, as opposed to a display of frustration when he doesn't do what you want. You need to control this type of puppy objectively and firmly, with consistent follow-up praise.

The Excitable Puppy

Puppies, by their very nature, will be excitable at various times each day. Most puppies, however, eventually settle down. The excitable puppy never seems to reach the settled down phase. They have limitless energy and they find it difficult to calm down. While this type of puppy can genuinely try your patience as it may be difficult to get him to focus on you, you can accomplish training by learning to how handle his temperament best. You should probably start with training sessions that are less than a minute in duration. Only provide positive reinforcement if he pays attention to you during the session. At some point, he will learn to focus on you and your training, gradually allowing you to lengthen the session duration. Keep your praise relaxing and calm in an effort to keep his excitability to a minimum. Also try to avoid any sudden movements or hand gestures that can trigger his excitement.

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You may also consider giving an excitable puppy some exercise time before training to help him expend some of his abundance of energy.

The Dependent Puppy

A dependent puppy will prefer to stay close to you. He will not be overtly curious about his surroundings and will not offer to investigate. A puppy that is dependent will most often look to you for approval and direction. These puppies are typically quite emotional. Some problems that exist with puppies who are dependent are puppies that have a difficult time being left alone, leading to emotional breakdowns and destructive behaviors. You will need to gradually train this type of puppy to be able to stay alone.

Before you leave this puppy each day, do not make a big event out of your departure. For the first few times, only stay away a short period of time, gradually staying away longer as his tolerance allows.

It is easy to want to pet and love on these types of puppies, however, that will only increase his dependence on you. Try motivation and rewards verbally as well as physically.

You must be gentle when training your dependent puppy. If you train with patient repetition, he will eventually respond to your training exercises.

The Independent Puppy

Conversely, the independent puppy has his own mind and you will struggle to get and keep his attention. He may ignore your requests to come when called, even if you are close by. You must begin training early with puppies like this so his desire to please you overshadows his desire to follow his own mind.

Training takes patience, firmness, and determination. Once you can get him to focus on you, he can actually be easy to work with since they tend to be relatively calm and not overly emotional.

Sometimes, prior to training, it may be helpful to confine and ignore this type of puppy. But only do this for a short period of time. This may encourage him to pay attention to you when you get him for training.

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In the beginning, you may prefer to use food treats as a reward, however, be sure to praise both verbally and physically. This increases your puppy's appreciation for all types of praise. When he gradually learns to focus more on you, decrease the use of food treats as reward.

You will need to be very patient with this type of puppy as you build his attention span over a period of time.

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Developmental Stages and Socialization

What happens at what point in your puppy's development and how your puppy will change.

Following is a breakdown of commonly accepted developmental stages and what you should be doing during those different phases of your puppy's life. There is tremendous evidence that suggests if a puppy is withheld from socialization, they will suffer from emotional and behavioral complications ranging from fear of social contact to hyperactivity and inhibited behavior. Some can even become socially incapacitated.

DEVELOPMENTAL LEARNING AND WHAT YOU SHOULD STAGES AGE DEVELOPMENT BE DOING Breeder provides warm Early development environment. Research has and reflexive indicated that mild stress is behavior Birth to actually beneficial for 12 Days puppies in their first five Neonatal Period weeks. It seems to produce At this age, puppies cannot better, more trainable dogs. see or hear well. They stay It actually produces a larger close to their mother and brain. littermates.

It is at this age when it becomes important to introduce minor stimuli such 13 to as knotted towels, plastic Transitional Period 20 Days bottles, boxes, etc. If you have friendly cats in your At this age, puppies can hear, home, you may slowly begin eyes are open, and walking introductions at this time. begins with wobbly steps. You must spend time daily Puppies at this stage respond picking up the puppies, to taste and smell. cuddling them, talking to them, etc.

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Primary Socialization This is a period of rapid Begins sensory development. It is critical to the puppies that they have a very stable environment. Do not overload them. Do not move their whelping box, Awareness Period 21 to etc, at this time! 23 Days Puppies at this age must remain with their littermates and mother.

At this age, puppies are able On a daily basis, introduce to use sense of sight and of new surfaces to the hearing. puppies, i.e., concrete, Learning truly begins. carpet, mats, wood, etc. Try to introduce them in pairs for reduced stress on each puppy. It's also a good time to introduce mild auditory stimuli such as soft music.

He's learning that During this phase, puppies he's a dog. require plenty of playtime with their littermates. 21 to 49 Days Leaving the litter prior to 7 Canine Socialization weeks of age can adversely

affect the puppy's ability to At this age, puppies learn interact with other dogs behaviors specific to their later. They may have Primary Socialization species such as chasing, trouble learning to inhibit period – 3 to 5 weeks barking, biting, fighting, etc. their bite strength.

Secondary They also learn to accept Introduce an open crate to Socialization discipline from their mother, the puppy pen. A clear Period – 6 to 12 using submissive postures. distinction between play weeks areas and sleep areas can now be made. This helps the puppy learn to leave their sleep area to eliminate which speeds housetraining.

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21 to All puppies should have one 49 on one attention with Days, humans. It is helpful to take cont. pairs out to enjoy time with Canine Socialization, you, such as on a car ride. cont. Mother will begin weaning puppies between 4-8 weeks, You might try isolating but she should be allowed as puppies periodically to much time with them as she prepare them for wants. separation.

A puppy's rate of mental development now depends on how complex their environment is. Expose puppies to various noises and many different surfaces

as often as possible. They learn to not bite too

hard. They learn to relate to Begin positive training their littermates and sessions at 5 weeks. therefore, they develop a pack hierarchy when playing.

The very best time to place a puppy in its new home is A new family and a between the ages of 7-8 new home await! weeks.

This is also the best time to enroll in a good puppy class The 49th day - the brain to make the best use of this waves of a puppy reach the 7 to 12 critical period in same level as that of an adult Human Socialization Weeks development. dog.

While taking into account Puppies should be weaned your puppy's short attention from their mother. span and his obvious lack of

physical size, you should still At this age, the most rapid capitalize on educating him learning occurs which has the right now! most impact on future behaviors. The window of

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opportunity is closing to provide critical changes to the puppy's mindset.

You should keep training Fear Imprint Period fun! Keep short sessions, 8 to 11 positive reinforcement, and Puppies can take Weeks an upbeat but firm tone. negative experiences Use gentle, patient during this time and guidance. internalize them which means they This is the human-imprint age. Puppies should not be may be affected Anything that frightens the shipped during this period. throughout their puppy now may have a lasting Elective surgeries should be lives. effect. put off until after 12 weeks of age. Any necessary veterinary visits should be made fun as well.

Learning to compete and cope. As long as you are providing 10 to structure and consistency, Seniority 16 this phase should be Classification Weeks relatively easy and painless. The puppy has probably been Social status – 10 to in its new home for up to 6 If, however, structure and 16 weeks weeks. This period is often consistency have not been referred to as the "cutting provided, the days ahead teeth and apron strings" may prove difficult, at best. phase. Puppies at this age will make efforts to clarify and resolve their place in the group.

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Flight Instinct Period This stage is why previous socialization and training Even if you've done must have already occurred. your homework and 4 to 8 provided everything Months If you notice a change in you were told to your young dog during this provide, it doesn't time, he may be going mean your puppy This phase could last just a through this "flight instinct" won't go through this few days (if you're lucky) to period. It is not unlike a phase. Be prepared - several weeks. Puppies will teenager going through and not alarmed. test their wings during this puberty. As long as you are time, such as not coming aware of these changes and It's a good time to when called or ignoring other have prepared for them, keep your pup on a well-known commands. you should manage what leash until this phase can sometimes be a difficult passes. time.

Not unexpectedly, this is often when obedience schools get their most calls. Puppies that have received proper training and socialization usually take a different path at this point from puppies that have not been afforded that effort.

Your puppy may become Second Fear Period fearful of new situations and therefore, they must be Many dogs may show handled with tremendous a rise in their 6 to 14 patience and calm during reactivity (such as Months this time. displaying aggressive This phase often goes along tendencies when they with a growth spurt. Because If your puppy appears afraid get frightened) of this, it can occur more than or timid, do not pressure during this period. once. him. You must allow him to They can even approach the stimuli when become overly Your puppy may suddenly be he is ready. Praise his protective or apprehensive about new confidence. If he displays territorial. things, or he may become shy an aggressive behavior, around new people. Most of provide space but not his height growth is over, but correction. You are his

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he may begin filling out over understood support system; the coming year. therefore, when confronted with frightening things, he Puppies also begin to mature needs to feel safe. sexually at this phase. Males may begin lifting their leg You should avoid any while females have their first potentially overwhelming heat cycle between 6-12 circumstances you cannot months. The puppy coat personally control, such as starts to be replaced by an shipping your puppy in a adult coat. plane cargo hold. Maturity Until this period is reached, Despite his age, you it is recommended your are never finished 1-4 puppy stay crated when you with socializing. Not Years are not available to ever. Your puppy still supervise. You will know needs to meet new This refers to sexual maturity. when your dog can be people and go new Small dogs mature early - trusted for short periods. If places! large dogs later. he begins damaging property, he is not ready.

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General Medical Information______

The lifespan of a dog depends on health and size. Smaller dogs generally live longer than larger dogs. As handlers of service dogs it is important to maintain their health to prolong their working life. We observe and maintain their health by ensuring they have:

• A Healthy Diet • Fresh Water • Exercise • Positive Reinforcement Training • Proper Play • Up-to-date Vaccinations and Medical Care • Rest

Keeping a clean and safe environment is an important part of their care. You must keep the kennels and their play area sanitized and safe from sharp objects, electrical cords, poisonous pesticides and lawn and garden equipment.

Always keep your training equipment clean and in proper working order. If you have equipment needs, please contact a trainer.

Exercise

Exercise is of utmost importance for the physical and mental wellbeing of your dog. If you give a dog something to do with all the energy he has, he will more than likely be better behaved, satisfied and less frustrated. Exercise helps keep dogs healthy which prolongs the life span, allows a dog to relax in the home during quieter times, reduces common behavior problems, helps keep the dog’s weight under control and helps build the bond between you and the dog.

Exercising your dog can take on many forms. Walking is one form that will not only help your dog, but keep you healthy as well. Throwing a ball in a fenced in area (i.e. back yard, ball field, etc.) is another good choice. Your dog can also get exercise by jogging with you, swimming (always supervise), hiking, Frisbee, playing retrieval games, etc.

Before and after playtime or endurance walks, limit your dog’s water intake. He may need to lie down and cool off for approximately fifteen minutes. You can then offer him more water before kenneling.

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Vaccinations

Newborn puppies receive disease fighting antibodies in their mother’s milk. However, these antibodies last only six to sixteen weeks. Vaccinations are given to stimulate the immune system against infection before exposure to a disease. It is a key component of preventative medicine in dogs just as in people. The recommended vaccinations include canine distemper, hepatitis, leptospirosis, parvovirus, parafluenza, and sometimes coronavirus. These six vaccines are commonly referred to as the distemper combo DHLPPC.

Two other vaccinations are also given to Patriot PAWS dogs on a regular basis. Rabies is also required by law to be given every year or every three years depending on the laws of your county or state (Patriot PAWS has the rabies vaccine given every year with the dog’s annual shots). Rabies is the virus that attacks the nervous system. If unvaccinated, rabies is always fatal. Dogs are also susceptible to an upper respiratory infection commonly known as kennel cough. The Bordetella vaccine is given every six months to vaccinate dogs against kennel cough.

Swallowing Objects

Due to dogs chewing and eating habits, foreign objects are commonly found in their stool. It is important to keep an eye on them especially if they are playing with toys or foreign objects such as rocks, wood or plastic. Should your dog be found tearing up a toy or leash, remove the object from their mouth, making sure to check it thoroughly for missing pieces. Sudden and excessive drooling, gagging and repeated attempts to swallow are signs of foreign objects lodged in the throat area. If you find your dog choking, give the Heimlich maneuver by placing a fist and your other hand wrapped around your dog at the “V” of their rib cage, and squeeze (See Emergency Protocols in this section for more information on The Heimlich Maneuver).

Loose Stool or Diarrhea

Diarrhea is defined as watery stools that the dog has too frequently. Diarrhea is NOT a soft stool (pudding). If your dog has diarrhea, you need to contact the vet after the 3rd stool is seen. The most common treatment would be Imodium as directed by the medical department. No food should be given for six to eight hours. Remember to ALWAYS clean up after your dog, possibly using sand or dirt to cover the area.

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Vomiting

If your dog is vomiting, immediately take him outside and allow him to continue. If needed, offer your dog a small amount of water and then kennel him. Vomiting isn’t always a sign of illness. Vomiting commonly occurs if the dog’s stomach is upset or if the dog is stressed. Common treatment is kennel rest, little water, and no food for six to eight hours. Inform a trainer if vomiting continues for more than 24 hours.

Common Parasitic/Fungal Problems

Internal Parasites

Internal parasites are worms that live inside a body. They include round worms, hook worms, heart worms, and any other form of internal worms. Internal parasites usually live in a dog’s digestive system and are detected by an examination of the dog’s stool.

Heartworms are transmitted by the bite of a mosquito. These dangerous parasites live in the dog’s heart or near it in major blood vessels, clogging the dog’s heart valves and blood flow. The preventative for internal parasites is Heart Guard Plus (Patriot PAWS recommended). Heart Guard Plus is a chewable treat given on a monthly basis.

External parasites

External parasites are fleas, ticks, lice, mange, mites and ear mites. The preventative for external parasites is Frontline (Patriot PAWS recommended), Sentinal or Comfortis. Frontline is a liquid put between the dog’s shoulder blades once a month. Be sure not to bathe your dog after using the Frontline for at least three days after administering treatment. Comfortis and Sentinal are pills given by mouth to control some external parasites. DO NOT TREAT WITH BOTH MEDICATIONS; ONLY USE ONE OR THE OTHER. Contact a trainer if you have any questions.

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Ringworm

Ringworm is an infection of the skin, hair or claws caused by a type of fungus. It is spread easily in the environment and people can easily be infected, too. Most cases of ringworm are spread by contact with infected animals or contaminated objects, such as furniture or grooming tools. The most common sites of infected dogs are the face, ear tips, tail, feet and stomach. Treatment for ringworm is usually a medicated shampoo and possibly antibiotics prescribed and administered by the vet. The infected dog or animal should be placed in isolation to prevent spreading the fungus to others. It is very important the dog’s area and kennel be sanitized with bleach daily. The dog should be cared for by one person and he should constantly wash his hands and arms with an antibacterial soap each time he handles the dog.

Giving Medication

Giving a Pill

To give your puppy a pill, wrap one hand over his muzzle and lift his head up with your thumb and forefinger, one on either side of his upper lip behind his canine teeth. With the other hand, gently but firmly pull down the lower jaw and place the pill at the very back of his tongue, where the tongue begins to go down the throat. Close the mouth and massage the throat, stroking downward along the throat until he swallows. You can also place pill in a tiny amount of peanut butter or special treat, but make sure he swallows the pill and not just the treat.

Giving Liquid Medication

To give liquid medication to your dog, gently tilt his head back. Slowly place the syringe filled with the medication into the back of the mouth and eject the medication. Place your hand over the dog’s muzzle to encourage him to swallow and stroke the throat.

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Basic Nutrition______Nutrition is the foundation for optimal health. Just like humans, dogs have specific nutritional requirements that need to be met. Service dogs like athletes need to maintain a nutritional diet to maintain body weight and have a longer working career. The better you feed your dog the longer they will work for you.

All dogs need a complete and balanced diet that consists of protein, fats, carbohydrates, vitamins, minerals, and water. Imbalances and insufficiencies in a dog’s diet can cause health and behavioral problems.

Water is the most important of all nutrients. Water makes up 90% of the body and is required by the metabolism and all body functions. A 15% loss of water could result in death. Always provide plenty of fresh water for your dog to drink. Patriot PAWS feeds and recommends the following brands • Natural Balance* premium foods (Duck and potato or synergy) • Pro Plan* (chicken and rice or all stages) • Nutro* premium foods. (Chicken and rice or lamb and rice)

Proteins are the raw material used to create, maintain and repair the cells, tissues, and organs in a dog’s body. The amount of protein in dog food is important, but even more important is the source. Sources include meat, fish, eggs and grain.

Fats are an essential source of energy. Dogs burn energy supplied by the fat in their food. Fats, especially omega 6 fatty acids, provide vitamins and essential fatty acids required for healthy skin and coat. Meats and grains are the primary sources of fat in a dog’s diet.

Carbohydrates provide storable energy and fiber, which aid in proper digestion. Dogs don’t need many carbohydrates to be healthy. Carbohydrates are found in grains such as corn, corn gluten, meal, barley, oats and rice.

Your dog needs vitamins in his food to release the nutrients and enzymes from the ingested food so that his body can absorb and use them. Vitamins help your dog maintain a healthy metabolism and immune system. Without vitamins, your dog cannot break down food and use it. Meat, vegetables and bran provide many required vitamins. Vitamins may also be added to food during the manufacturing process.

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Minerals make up less than 2% of any formulated diet, yet they are the most critical of nutrients. Dogs can manufacture some vitamins on their own, but they aren’t able to make minerals. Minerals are necessary for bone development and normal body functioning. Minerals exist naturally in vegetables and grain and are often added to food.

Guaranteed Analysis This section of the label provides minimum guarantees for protein and fat, and maximum guarantees for moisture and fiber. The Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) sets the guidelines for what each word on a food label means.

Ingredient Listing This label lists ingredients in descending order by weight. Predominant ingredients are listed first. Remember that the protein sources you may see are lamb and chicken which are whole meats. Lamb meal and chicken meal, are whole meats that have been ground or otherwise reduced to particle size and dried. By-products are what are left of the animal.

Canine nutrition is not one size fits all. Nutritional requirements differ by dog size and age. Puppies, like human babies, need more nutrients than adult dogs. Puppies grow very quickly, more so than babies, because dogs age much faster than people. In the first six months a puppy reaches puberty, the equivalent of 10 to 12 human years. It is critical to provide the best nutrition possible in this period of rapid development.

A dog’s breed plays an important part in his nutritional requirements. Large breed puppies may develop musculoskeletal problems if allowed to grow too fast.

There are different types of dog foods available:

Performance (Patriot PAWS Recommended) is a high quality food that lists two or three animal proteins in the first five ingredients. These foods are marketed for the working and breeding animal, but are the best quality food on the market for all dogs. Performance foods contain the correct quantity of fats and oils needed for energy, a good coat and skin. Performance foods don’t contain soy, which dogs can’t digest.

Super Premium (Patriot PAWS Recommended) foods usually contain an animal protein first, followed by several grains. Super Premium foods provide energy for the dog from high fat levels but are not as good as performance foods because they contain animal protein.

Premium foods contain a high level of protein, but you need to look at the source because the protein may come from grains and not animal protein. Premium foods may also contain soy.

Regular, Economy, Low Protein, or Light (Not recommended) foods are full of grains and are guaranteed to make your dog a couch potato. They are deficient in animal protein and usually are marketed for the older dog. They produce voluminous smelly stools caused by the inability

Page 66 Patriot PAWS Puppy Raiser Manual of the dog to break down and digest the food. Dogs fed this food for any length of time will show signs of animal protein deficiencies.

At some time you may need to change your dog’s diet. This can cause your dog’s stomach to be upset. When introducing a new diet, start by mixing 25% of the new food with 75% of the old food. Over a two-week period, gradually increase the ratio of new food until your dog is eating only the new food.

Other Nutritional Information

There have been many studies and observations that prove the importance of nutrition in maintaining health. In this age, foods are primarily in a processed form. They are cooked, pasteurized, refined, exposed to pressure, and mixed with preservatives to prolong shelf life and additives to alter color, texture, and taste. It is clear that processing food this way damages or destroys vital nutrients.

Because our dogs’ diets are limited to highly processed pet foods, we often use supplements to complete the nutritional gap. Research suggests the use of certain supplements prolong the dog’s working life.

A common supplement used on Patriot PAWS’ dogs is Glucosamine Chondroitin. This is for musculoskeletal support. Omega 3 Fish Oil is great for digestion and their skin and coats. There are many other supplements on the market to aid in whole food nutrition.

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Grooming______

Nails

Dogs that regularly exercise or play outdoors on abrasive surfaces will generally require less frequent nail clipping than those kept mainly in the house or on soft ground. Trimming your dogs nails every two weeks keeps the feet healthy, makes nail trimming sessions easier and promotes proper gait and foot shape.

When clipping your dog’s nails, you must be careful not to cut the “quick,” a blood vessel in the nail. Cutting the quick will cause the dog pain and may result in future battles when nail trimming is needed. Keep styptic powder handy to help stop the bleeding in case you accidently cut the quick. This can be purchased at pet stores and some department stores that sell pet items.

Our dogs have also been trained to paw at a nail board. The nail board consists of a piece of wood with low-grit sand paper glued to its surface. While holding the board in front of the dog, ask the dog to paw. When the dog picks up his paws allow the paw to scrape down the board. This will file the dog’s front paws only. It is also fun to do with your dog. If you are unable to take care of your dog’s nails yourself, take the dog to a groomer.

Teeth

Dogs need dental attention throughout their lives. You need to keep your dog’s teeth and gums in good condition by daily brushing. Good dental care reduces the development of plaque which, if left untreated, can progress to gingivitis and periodontal disease. You should brush your dog’s teeth daily. The most common dental problems that dogs experience result

Patriot PAWS Puppy Raiser Manual Page 69 from plaque buildup. The common warning signs include red, swollen or bleeding gums, bad breath or dark spots on molars.

To brush your dog’s teeth, slip the tooth brush over your finger, put a generous amount of toothpaste on the brush and brush each tooth. You do not need to rinse teeth after brushing. Be sure you only use toothpaste that is made for dogs.

Ears

Ear hygiene is often overlooked until it is too late. Head shaking or ear scratching is primarily due to some sort of ear discomfort. Daily inspection is easy and doesn’t take a lot of time. Ears should be cleaned as needed. A great time to check your dogs ears are while they are doing a “see me.”

With some breeds, there is more accumulation of hair at the entrance to the ear canal than with other breeds, so it must be removed. Ear hair may be pulled out with fingers or with ear forceps. When you pull ear hair, hold the dog’s ear, lift it up, and lay it flat on his head. This allows you to pull hair from the external ear, but close off the inner ear to protect it. Pull small bits of hair at a time in order to make it more comfortable for the dog.

To clean your dog’s ears, remove ear dirt and wax by swabbing the ears with a cotton ball moistened with ear cleaner, and then dry out each ear with a dry cotton ball.

Bathing

Regularly bathing your dog removes dead hair and skin cells, improves the natural luster of your dog’s coat and reduces your dog’s allergies, as well as your own. A common misconception is that dogs shouldn’t be bathed frequently.

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Because Patriot PAWS Service Dogs have public access, they should be bathed every two weeks in the summer and once a month during the winter. You always want to bathe your dog if he gets dirty.

Bathing instructions:

1) Brush your dog’s coat before the bath. Brushing removes dead hair and debris, separates the hair and stimulates circulation. 2) Wet the dog’s coat thoroughly with warm water. 3) Work the shampoo through the hair with your hands, adding water as necessary to make a good lather. 4) Do not wash just the top of the hair. 5) Work the shampoo through the hair to the skin. Be sure to do the entire dog— under the stomach, under the tail, and under and between the footpads. 6) Do not get shampoo in the dog’s eyes, it will sting and could cause an eye infection. 7) When the dog’s coat is well-lathered, rinse with warm water. 8) Rinse away from the eyes so soap does not run into them, and protect the ear canal with your thumb, being careful not to direct water into it. 9) Rinse around one ear first, then the other. 10) Rinse until all traces of soap are removed from the coat. 11) Squeeze the water out of the coat with your hands and use a towel to dry.

A good habit and training technique is to get your dog to jump in and out of the bath tub or shower stall even when you don’t intend on giving them a bath. That way they will be less likely to resist jumping in when bath time does come around.

Brushing

Your dog’s coat should be brushed regularly to remove shed hair and prevent hair mats. Grooming is especially important for dogs with thick, shaggy coats that mat or tangle easily. Mats can irritate the skin and the moist, stuffy conditions underneath them leaves the skin more susceptible to bacterial or parasite infections. Brush burns result from excessive force when brushing or dematting. It burns the dog’s skin. Don’t press hard; let the bristles do their job.

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Different Kinds of Brushes Patriot PAWS Recommended

• A slicker brush—used to collect the hair as you brush • Bristle—everyday use • Pin and Bristle—long hair, detangler o Pin—long hair, detangler o Bristle—on the labs or short hair dogs • Furminator—pulls out dead hair, thins o Recommended use is once a week. The Furminator *If you have any questions contact a trainer.

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Minor First Aid______

Eyes with discharge or foreign matter: flush with cool water and wipe the eyes with a soft cloth.

Waxy ears: use a soft cloth and only clean the areas of the ear that you can see. Some dogs require the use of an ear cleaning solution (See Section 6-2: Grooming)

Itchy skin/dry skin/puppy dermatitis: bathe weekly to every other week in cool water, washing with medicated shampoo (See Section 6-2: Grooming).

Lacerations or abrasions: if minor bleeding is present, apply pressure to the wound, wrap with bandage for 20-30 minutes and see if bleeding has stopped. Treat with antibiotic ointment and leave a light bandage on the area until re-evaluated. If possible clip hair from around the wound to allow it to heal.

Cuts that are less than an inch long and not too deep will heal on their own. Larger ones may need stitches.

Bleeding See Vet immediately if severe/persistent bleeding is present

The Best Cure: First and foremost, always stop the bleeding. Do this by applying direct pressure with a soft cloth to the wound. Pack cloths on top of the previous one until the bleeding stops, maintaining the pressure. The dog must be checked by a Vet immediately.

Animal Bites See Vet immediately

These are the most dangerous wounds. They are usually narrow and deep. Cat bites tend to be the worst because their saliva has germs.

First aid:

• Flush wound with a liquid antiseptic or Betadine, if available. Or clean with light soap and water. • Then, apply triple antibiotic cream.

Choking

Causes:

• Food or toy or other object stuck in throat • Ill animal choking on its own vomit • Tongue swelling due to an allergic reaction

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Signs:

• Animal stops breathing • Struggling or gasping to breathe • Loud breathing sounds

Choking First Aid:

Note – use caution when performing the following:

• Open mouth and carefully sweep from side to side with your finger to see if you can feel and dislodge the object. Be careful not to push the object further down the dog’s throat. Remove the object, if possible. • You can also suspend the animal by the hips with the head hanging down, if he is small. If he is large, hold dog’s hind legs in the air like a wheelbarrow.

If the object doesn’t come out then, you will need to do the Heimlich maneuver. To do this:

• Stand behind your dog with your legs apart and wrap both arms around the lower abdomen. • Lift his hindquarters up to your chest, squeeze and give a gentle shake. • Do this 5 times in a quick, rapid manner • You can lift small dogs completely off of the floor • It takes a bit of force to do this correctly, so don’t be afraid to use pressure. Your dog’s life may depend on it.

Insect Bites

Bee stings and spider bites are the most common in dogs in the warmer months. Bites usually are in areas that are less hairy such as the nose and feet.

Signs:

• Pain, itching, licking at area of sting • Swelling at sting area, which may spread to head, face, and neck • Vomiting or diarrhea • Breathing difficulty

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Insect Bite First Aid:

• If the face and/or head and neck are swollen, take your dog to the vet immediately. This means that he is allergic and the bite can be fatal – quickly. • Apply a cold pack to the area to reduce swelling. Try to locate the stinger. • Use a credit card, ID card, or other flat, rigid object to scrape it out. • Don’t squeeze the skin or try to use tweezers to remove it. This will cause more of the poison/venom to be released into the wound. • Give your dog an antihistamine, such as Benadryl, or Diphenhydramine.

Emergency Protocols

How to approach a sick or injured dog

• Always approach slowly • Keep an eye on body posture and expressions: the dog’s face, ears, tail, fur • Listen for low growling or other noises • Allow the dog to see all of your movements • Speak softly in a soothing tone • Avoid direct eye contact • Get additional help, if needed • Muzzle the dog with an actual muzzle

Securing your sick dog

Let your sick dog know where you are as you don’t want to surprise him. There are several different ways of securing a sick dog.

Muzzle

Muzzles are used to prevent dogs from biting. If your situation has escalated to the point where you are afraid of your dog, or if he tries to bite you, use a muzzle. After you have taken away the dog’s option to bite, he doesn’t even try. However, a muzzle should be used as a last resort. Muzzles are available in nylon, plastic, leather, and metal. The type of problem the dog is having will dictate the type of muzzle to use. Plastic muzzles are good for dogs while doing obedience training. Leather muzzles are usually what are used with police dogs.

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If using a leash: A nylon or leather leash is best

• Make a large loop in the leash by putting the hook end through the hole at the handle. • Stand just behind or to the side of the dog’s head then, calmly drop the loop over the dog’s head and tighten the loop.

If using a towel or blanket: This is primarily used on small dogs

• While standing at a safe distance behind the dog, drop the towel or blanket over them • Place one hand on the top of the neck to prevent being bitten • Wrap the towel around the dog’s body and legs, being sure to cover all four paws • Uncover head, if covered • Once you have the towel or blanket wrapped tightly, you can now carry your dog safely to the Vets office for further examination without being hurt yourself.

Carrying/Transporting

If possible, put your dog in a crate for transporting to the vet.

30lbs or less

• The injured side should be up against you • Cradle the dog in your arms by placing one hand around the dog’s front legs, with a few fingers between the legs • With your other hand, hold the hind legs softly as you walk

30lbs or more

• Put one arm under and around the neck, across the chest • Wrap the other arm behind the rear/hind legs for stomach injury • Wrap the other arm under the stomach area for hind leg/rear injury.

Heatstroke Take to Vet immediately

Normal Dog Body Temperature is between 100.5 and 102.5 degrees.

Heatstroke happens when an animal gets extremely overheated, mostly during summer months.

Causes:

• Dog is left in parked car • Any dog with a previous history is more likely to suffer a heat stroke again

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• Dog is not used to long periods of heat exposure. • Lack of proper shelter outdoors, and little to no water • Heavy-coated dogs in warm climates

Signs:

• Excessive panting, or unable to breathe easily • Collapse • Temperature above 104ᵒf • Bloody diarrhea or vomit • Walking in a stagger-type way (drunk)

Heat Stroke First aid:

• Take dog to shady area, or inside • Check for shock and take temperature. Over 104ᵒf is very serious. • Spray dog with cool water • Wait for several minutes, retake temperature. • Place water-soaked towels on head, neck, feet chest, and stomach areas • Put fan on dog • Rub alcohol under the dog’s front and back legs or on the pads. Do not use a large amount as it can be toxic to both dogs and cats

Note: Your goal is to reduce the body temperature to 104ᵒf within 10-15 minutes. Once you get the 104ᵒf, you must stop the cooling process. Then take the dog to the Vet.

Hypothermia Take to Vet immediately

Normal Dog Body Temperature is between 100.5 and 102.5 degrees.

Hypothermia is a drastic lowering of body temperature.

Potential problems:

• Kidney failure • Respiratory arrest • Destruction of digestive tract lining • Neurological problems: seizures and brain swelling

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Common Hazards and Poisons around the Home______

By Dr. Mary Fuller | March 19, 2012 http://www.vetstreet.com/our-pet-experts/pet-poisons-from-a-to-z-what-you-absolutely- must-know

No one intends for it to happen: A purse is left on the floor, and within minutes, your Boston Terrier is parading around with an empty prescription bottle or a chocolate wrapper in his mouth.

“We just don’t realize how determined our pets are to eat the things they shouldn’t,” says Dr. Tina Wismer, DVM, medical director for the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center.

Of the 165,900 calls that the organization handled in 2011, most of them involved pets who'd ingested human prescriptions. “Many children with ADHD don’t want to take their medications, so they leave pills on their plates, where pets can get at them,” Dr. Wismer says. “Even nonprescription medications, such as ibuprofen, can be a problem because many brands have a sweet coating, so it’s like candy for dogs.”

As part of National Poison Prevention Week (March 18-24), Vetstreet has compiled an A to Z list of some common pet poisons that should be on your radar. This list is not all-inclusive, so for more information on these and many other toxins, check out the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center website and talk with your vet.

® • Acetaminophen, which is found in Tylenol and other medications, can cause liver damage in dogs. Cats are even more sensitive: Ingestion of a single 325 mg tablet by a 10-pound cat can cause anemia and even be fatal. Toxicity Ranking: moderate to severe. • Batteries can be toxic to both dogs and cats, leading to ulcers in the mouth, esophagus or stomach. Toxicity Ranking: moderate to severe.

• Chocolate can cause seizures and death in dogs and cats. Darker chocolate, such as unsweetened baker’s chocolate, is more toxic than milk or white chocolate. Even cocoa bean mulch, when eaten in large quantities, can be a problem. Toxicity Ranking: moderate to severe. • Detergents and fabric softener sheets can cause ulcers in the mouth, esophagus and stomach in dogs and cats. Toxicity Ranking: mild to moderate. • Ethylene glycol is found in antifreeze, windshield de-icing agents and motor oils. Dogs and cats are attracted to its sweet taste, but as little as a teaspoon in cats or a tablespoon in dogs can cause kidney failure. Toxicity Ranking: severe to fatal. • Fertilizers can contain poisonous amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, iron, zinc, herbicides and pesticides. Keep dogs and cats away from treated lawns until they are dry. Check the product packaging, though, since some products must be rinsed into the lawn before it is safe to walk on. Toxicity Ranking: mild to moderate.

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• Grapes, raisins and currants — even grape juice — in small amounts can cause kidney failure in dogs. Toxicity Ranking: moderate to severe. • Household cleaners, such as bleach, drain cleaners, ammonia and toilet bowl cleaners, can cause gastrointestinal ulcers and other problems in dogs and cats. Toxicity Ranking: varies. • Insecticides in flea and tick products can cause problems if not used according to labels. Insecticides that are meant for dogs can cause severe toxicity in cats, leading to signs such as vomiting, seizures and difficulty breathing. Products intended for treating the yard or house should not be used on pets. Toxicity Ranking: mild to severe. • Jimson weed, also known as devil’s trumpet, can cause restlessness, drunken walking and respiratory failure in dogs and cats. Toxicity Ranking: moderate. • Kerosene, gasoline and tiki torch fluids can cause drooling, drunken walking and difficulty breathing in dogs and cats. If these products contain antifreeze, they are even more problematic. Toxicity Ranking: moderate to severe (potentially life threatening). • Lilies — Easter, day, tiger, Japanese and Asiatic varieties — can cause kidney failure in cats. Lilies of the valley can cause heart rhythm problems and death in dogs and cats. Toxicity Ranking: moderate to severe. • Mothballs, especially if they contain naphthalene, can be toxic to dogs and cats, resulting in vomiting, diarrhea, increased drinking and urination, and seizures. Toxicity Ranking: moderate to severe (potentially life threatening). • Nonprescription medication, such as ibuprofen, can lead to severe ulcers and anemia, as well as liver and kidney failure in pets. Toxicity Ranking: moderate to severe (potentially life threatening). • Onions, garlic, leeks and chives can be toxic in dogs and cats. When chewed or swallowed, these ingredients can cause anemia and gastrointestinal upset. Toxicity Ranking: mild to moderate. • Prescription medications, such as antidepressants, ADHD and cardiac drugs, are commonly ingested by pets when pills are dropped on the floor or left on counters. Even a small dose can cause problems. Toxicity Ranking: varies. • Queensland nuts, also known as macadamia nuts, can cause lethargy, vomiting and difficulty walking in dogs. Toxicity Ranking: mild to moderate. • Rodenticides, such as mouse and rat poisons, can contain a number of different toxins, which have different effects on dogs and cats. Several common ingredients, like warfarin and coumarin, can cause blot clotting problems and hemorrhaging. Toxicity Ranking: mild to severe. • Sago palms are one of a number of toxic plants for dogs and cats. Ingestion can lead to vomiting, diarrhea and seizures, as well as liver failure in dogs. Toxicity Ranking: severe. • Tulip bulbs can lead to mouth irritation, drooling, vomiting and diarrhea. Toxicity Ranking: mild to moderate. • Unbaked bread dough can expand in the stomach. If the stomach twists, cutting off the blood supply, emergency surgery is needed. The yeast in the dough can also produce alcohol, leading to seizures and respiratory failure. Toxicity Ranking: mild to severe.

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• Veterinary prescriptions, such as arthritis medications, are often meat-flavored, which can be enticing to dogs. This can result in stomach ulcers, liver or kidney failure. Toxicity Ranking: moderate to severe. • Windshield wiper fluid can contain methanol or ethylene glycol. Ingestion of methanol can cause low blood sugar and drunken walking in dogs and cats. Toxicity Ranking: mild to moderate. • Xylitol is a sugar-free sweetener commonly found in chewing gum, breath mints and toothpaste. In dogs, it can lead to dangerous drops in blood sugar and liver failure. Toxicity Ranking: mild to severe. • Yard products, including snail and slug bait, herbicides and fertilizers, are never good for pets. Signs will vary by the ingredient. Toxicity Ranking: varies. • Zinc toxicity can happen when dogs and cats eat metal or coins. Ingestion of even a single zinc penny can be fatal. Zinc can cause anemia, as well as liver, kidney or heart failure. Toxicity Ranking: moderate to severe.

How to Safeguard Your Pet

So how can you prevent your pet from an accidental poisoning? Start by visiting the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center website to learn about other potential poisons, how to poison- proof your home and what to do if you suspect that your pet may have been poisoned.

It’s also a good idea to post the organization’s phone number — 888-426-4435 — on your refrigerator for easy reference in the event of an emergency. The call center is staffed 24 hours a day, 365 days a year.

“To poison-proof your home, don’t keep medications where pets can get at them,” Dr. Wismer says. “Keep cleaning products behind doors, and take your medication in another room, behind a locked door.”

While dogs can be notorious for refusing to take their own medications, Wismer adds, “We sometimes say that the surest way to pill a dog is to drop one on the floor.”

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Glossary of Terms ______

Aversive

Something the animal is willing to work to avoid.

Baby steps

Small steps to reach a training goal. The trainer clicks at the instant the animal achieves each small-step. Each step can include not only the physical behavior but also elements like time between the cue and the response, duration, and distance.

Behavior

Anything an animal does.

Capture

Waiting for a dog to perform a behavior on its own and marking the behavior with a click or cue.

Checking in

Eye contact on a regular basis with the trainer regardless of distractions.

Clicker

A toy noisemaker. Animal trainers make use of a clicker to mark an event to a desired response. The sound of the clicker is an excellent marker because it is unique, quick, and consistent. You can find several different types of clickers in many pet stores.

Consequence

The result of an action. Consequences, frequently but not always, affect future behavior, making the behavior more or less likely to occur.

Cue

Cues may be verbal, visual (i.e. a hand signal), or environmental (i.e. a curb may become a cue to sit if the dog is always cued to sit before crossing a road).

Desensitization

Desensitization is the process of increasing an animal’s tolerance to a particular stimulus by gradually increasing the presence of the stimulus.

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Environmental Reinforcer

Anything in the environment that your dog wants. Trainers can use access to these things as powerful reinforcers for desired behaviors. For example, say your dog wants to greet an approaching dog. You can ask for a behavior and then let your dog’s action (or non-action) determine whether he gets to meet and greet.

Distance

A dog’s ability to sustain any given behavior as the trainer moves away (one of the 3 D’s).

Distraction

Anything that draws a dog’s attention from the training session, thus making it harder for the dog to respond to cues. Distractions can be visual, auditory, or scent based (one of the 3 D’s).

Duration

A dog’s ability to sustain any given behavior for an increasing period of time (one of the 3 D’s).

Event marker

A signal used to mark desired behavior at the instant it occurs. The clicker is an event marker.

Fluency

An animal’s (or person’s) ability to perform a given behavior with speed and accuracy in any environment.

Forearms

Dogs’ front legs, between elbow and toes.

Gentle Leader

Similar to a horse halter, a dog’s gentle leader gives the trainer control of the dog’s head, making it easier to manage a dog on leash until the dog has been taught to walk at the handler’s side.

Jackpot

A reward of three or more treats (one at a time) given after an exceptional response.

Latency

The lag time between the giving of the cue and the animal starting to respond.

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Loose Leash Walking

Walking with the dog in the heel position (left side) so that the leash is in a “J” position (hanging loosely up under the dog’s neck) and the trainer is able to touch the top of the dog’s head without stretching.

Luring

A hands-off method of guiding the dog through a behavior. For example, a food lure can be used to guide a dog from a sit into a down. This is a common method of getting more complex behaviors. Lures are usually food, but they may also be target sticks or anything else the dog will follow. Trainers must take care to decrease (fade) the lure early.

Positive Reinforcement

Adding something the animal will work for to strengthen (increase the frequency of) a behavior. For example, giving the dog a treat for sitting in order to increase the probability that the dog will sit again.

Primary Reinforcer

A reinforcer that the animal is born needing. Food, water, and sex are primary reinforcers.

Punishment

A consequence to a behavior in which something is added to or removed from the situation to make the behavior less likely to occur in the future.

Precision

The overall polished look of the behavior.

Reinforcement

A consequence to a behavior in which something is added to or removed from the situation to make the behavior more likely to occur in the future.

Reinforcer

Anything a dog will work to obtain.

Release

A word that signals the end of a behavior.

Reliability

When you can bet me $5 the dog can perform the behavior 8 out of 10 times in 3 different locations, you can move to the next step. All behaviors should be reliable both visually and verbally, independent of each other.

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Shaping

A teaching technique that is used to train a dog a behavior (e.g. to sit) without any verbal commands. The word "shaping" is scientific term for building a particular behavior by using a series of small steps to achieve it. Shaping allows you to create behavior from scratch without physical control or corrections, but rather by drawing on your dog's natural ability to learn. Shaping depends on reinforcing the desired action instantaneously, as it is happening.

Speed

The time it takes to complete the behavior.

Stimulus

A change in the environment. If the stimulus has no effect on the animal, it is a neutral stimulus. A stimulus that stands out in the environment that the animal notices more than other environmental stimuli is a salient stimulus. A stimulus that causes a change of state in the animal for example, causes him to perform a specific behavior is a discriminative stimulus.

Stimulus Control

A conditioned stimulus becomes a discriminative stimulus (or cue) when it is followed by a specific learned behavior or reaction. The response is said to be 'under stimulus control' when presentation of the particular stimulus fulfills these four conditions: the behavior is always offered when that cue is presented; the behavior is not offered in the absence of that cue; the behavior is not offered in response to some other cue; and no other behavior occurs in response to that cue.

Target

Something the animal is taught to touch with some part of his body. A target is generally stationary.

Target stick

A mobile target the animal is taught to touch and follow. Target sticks are often used as lures to shape behavior.

Timing

Ideally, the click from a clicker should occur at exactly the same instant the target criterion is achieved. Timing is a mechanical skill and requires practice. The trainer must be able to recognize the behaviors that precede the target behavior in order to click at the very moment the target behavior occurs.

Training Session

A training session can be defined as either a pre-set period of time or pre-set number of repetitions. At the end of a training session, the trainer evaluates the animal’s progress.

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Works Cited ______

Alexander, Melissa C., Click for Joy! (Questions and Answers from Clicker Trainers and their Dogs), Waltham, MA, Sunshine Books, Inc., 2003

McConnell, Patricia B., The Other End of the Leash “Why We Do What We Do Around Dogs”, New York, Ballantine Publishing Group, 2002

Owens, Paul, Good Habits for Great Dogs, Avon, MA, Adams Media, 2009

Reid, Pamela J., Excel-erated Learning “Explaining in Plain English How Dogs Learn and How Best to Teach Them”, Berkeley, CA, James and Kenneth Publishers, 1996

Ryan, Terry, Coaching People to Train Their Dogs, Sequim, WA, Legacy Canine Behavior and Training, 2005

Tillman, Peggy, Clicking With Your Dog (Step-by-Step in Pictures)*, Waltham, MA, Sunshine Books, Inc., 2000

Accessed via internet: http://www.vetstreet.com/our-pet-experts/pet-poisons-from-a-to-z-what-you- absolutely-must-know

Accessed via internet: The Humane Society of the United States http://www.humanesociety.org/animals/dogs/tips/dog_training_positive_reinforcement.html

Accessed via internet: www.diamondsinthe ruff.com/DevelopmentalStages.html

Excerpted from a Canine Companions for Independence Manual. Pappas, Clark, Canine Companions for Independence, 1999

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