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savvy traveler A Day at the Beach South Padre Island’s AFfordable and Fun attractions m

text by Helen Anders A Whale of a Time! South Padre Island’s Whaling Wall mural, which enlivens the exterior of the island’s Convention Centre, was painted by the marine artist known simply as Wyland.

photo: © Larry Ditto To order a print of this photograph, call 866/962-1191, or visit www.texashighwaysprints.com. M ay 2015 | texashighways.com 13 savvy traveler

I had a job as a waiter. People would ask about the history of the island, and I wanted to know what to tell them. It became a passion.” When you’re through taking in the museum, walk outside the Conven- tion Centre and admire the 1994 Whal- ing Wall mural, one of 100 exterior whale-themed murals painted across the country by the renowned marine artist known as Wyland. Then take a stroll on a short wetlands walkway out to the Laguna Madre. You’re likely to see roseate spoonbills, egrets, herons, and other birds. But, you might wonder, who are all those people on the longer walkway nearby? They’re visiting the South Padre Is- land Birding and Nature Center next door, which, for a minimal fee ($5 for adults), will engross you in nature and If you’re on the island birds for hours. Trek on a 3,300-foot between April and boardwalk through native grasses and August, you might ponds, climb high above the Laguna catch Kemp’s ridley Madre to a five-story viewing tower, or sea turtles nesting, settle in for the show behind one of five one of nature’s most viewing blinds. impressive spectacles. No matter the season, you’re likely to see egrets, pelicans, red-winged black- birds, spoonbills, and an occasional great blue heron. Spring migration brings warblers, indigo buntings, and orioles, as well. Peer down into the shal- low bay and you might see a school of n a family-vacation photo taken in the coins, glassware, Civil War shell cas- fish or a parade of crabs. If you’re really early 1900s, a family of seven poses at the edge of ings, and other memorabilia borrowed lucky, you might spot an alligator. the surf at South Padre Island. The father wears a from the nearby Port Isabel Historical Then walk inside the birding center, suit, tie, and hat; his wife and a friend pose cheer- Museum, photos show well-dressed where an interpretive center tells the ily in long dresses and hats. Only the teenage boy South early visitors—some posing with fish story of the bay’s ecology, bird migra- has taken off his shoes in anticipation of wading Padre Island, taller than themselves—at the Tarpon tion, and dune formation. into the ocean. on the southern tip Beach Club, a two-story bathhouse, From the tower, you’ll spot a small Much has changed since those early days on the of Texas, offers hotel, and casino that opened in 1908. structure just south of the birding cen- island, but that wave of pleasure that washes over most of us year-round fun. For Battered by storms, it disappeared by ter. That’s Sea Turtle Inc., a nonprofit or- Iwhen we spy the Gulf of Mexico? That never changes. With a details about accom- the 1950s. You’ll also learn about the ganization that was founded in 1977 to wealth of hotel rooms and condos, miles of beach, and plenti- modations, restaurants, Great Coyote Hunt of 1931, see 1930s rescue, rehabilitate, and release (if pos- ful, affordable seafood, South Padre continues to prove itself and attractions on blueprints for the original Queen Isa- sible) injured sea turtles, as well as ed- Whether it’s spending a relaxing weekend in our cozy cabins or a good value for a summer trip, and for free or inexpensive en- the island, call the bella Causeway, the model for the bridge ucate the public about conservation ef- enjoying our fine dining restaurants, there is always somewhere to tertainment, you need look no further than the island’s history South Padre Island that now connects South Padre Island forts. Visiting the turtles is free, but a $3 rest or dine* in Bastrop County. Come stay a weekend with us and and its native inhabitants. Visitors Center, to Port Isabel, and learn about the three donation ($2 for children) is requested. get away without having to go far away. That portrait, for example, of the formal beach family with 800/767-2373; hurricanes that hit the island in 1933. Staff members will tell you all about EXPLORE OUR FRIENDLY NATURE. EXPLORE BASTROP COUNTY .COM the renegade teenager is part of the free South Padre Island www.sopadre.com. Island historian Steve Hathcock, who the eight or so resident turtles, which History Museum, a small but captivating collection on dis- has donated many of the coins on dis- can’t be released into the wild due to *Please don’t drink a fine wine out of tin cups. play at the South Padre Island Convention Centre. Along with play, says, “When I moved here in 1980, their injuries. Allison, a green sea turtle,

14 texashighways.com | M ay 2015 To order a print of the photograph above (at left), call 866/962-1191, or visit www.texashighwaysprints.com. photos: © Larry Ditto M ay 2015 | texashighways.com 15 savvy traveler texas Family

is one of the stars. She arrived in 2005 with three of her four flippers missing, probably bitten off by a predator. She could swim only in circles and had trou- ble surfacing to breathe, and she would have died in the ocean. In 2006, a Sea Turtle intern fashioned a prototype for a prosthesis, the first of six that eventu- ally allowed her to swim relatively nor- mally. Allison wears the most recent design, a carbon-steel model that serves as a rudder, a few hours a day. As she and other turtles swim in their tanks, they notice that they have company and raise their heads—maybe not to smile, but at least to acknowledge us.

With a wealth of hotel rooms and condos, miles of beach, and plentiful, affordable seafood, South Padre continues to prove itself a good value for a summer trip.

If you’re on the island between April and August, you might catch Kemp’s ridley sea turtles nesting, one of nature’s most impressive spectacles. When it happens, they swim out of the Gulf onto the beach and furiously dig holes in the sand with their flippers, then deposit their eggs. To keep preda- A Texas Bucket List tors from eating them, volunteers with Sea Turtle Inc. collect the eggs, incu- A few places every Texan should visit bate them, and when they hatch (typi- text by Michelle Burgess cally 48 to 62 days later), the little turtles are released back into the ocean. Check for times by calling the hatchling hot- n a few weeks, I’ll become a First-time as future road trips. Here’s a bucket list line at 956/433-5735. grandmother when my daughter gives birth to a to get us started: Also spectacular: summer fireworks son, who will go by the name of Bowen. In 1833, over both the beach (Friday and Sat- his sixth-great-grandfather was born in Arkan- Find More Dear Bowen, urday nights at Clayton’s Beach Bar) sas; but as they say, he got here as quickly as he Online As your grandmother, I am thrilled to and the bay (Friday nights; best view- could. And now, eight generations later, here my More bucket offer my services as your personal guide ing between Palm and Red Snapper grandson will be. He doesn’t realize it yet, but list ideas at to the greatest state in the greatest country streets). And, of course, there’s the eter- that makes him a very lucky boy. Like me, my texashighways. in the world. Most of us, natives and other- nal free sky show that everyone needs daughter is a proud Texan who loves revisiting favorite des- com/webextra. wise, have our own Texas bucket lists, and to catch: Sit on the beach at sunrise and Itinations in the state as well as discovering new ones. But I have created one that covers some of what watch the day’s first rays throw spar- since she’s the mom, she’ll have all the serious decision- I’d like to show you and any grandkids that kles onto the Gulf. ★ making on her plate, while I get to ponder such fun diversions come along in the future.

16 texashighways.com | M ay 2015 Illustration by Mike Lowery M ay 2015 | texashighways.com 17 texas Family

Port Aransas rugged, 801,000-acre chunk of pro- from the pithy witticisms scrawled on I’m going to let you discover South tected Chihuahuan Desert that’s as iso- wooden signs around the place. Padre Island on Spring Break on your lated and remote as anywhere else in own sometime in the distant future. the entire state. North Dallas Roots Well before then, I plan to take you Your great-grandfather Allman and to its northern island neighbor, Port The State Fair of Texas his five siblings grew up in 1940s Plano Aransas. There’s something about Even during the years I (reluctantly) in a tiny clapboard house on the rail- riding the Aransas Pass ferry across spent out of state, as often as I could make road tracks. These days, the lines sep- to the island and leaving the mainland it happen, I made a pilgrimage with your arating Plano from Richardson and behind that lets you know that vacation mom, or your aunt or uncle, to Dallas for Dallas are indistinguishable, but back has officially begun. We’ll rent a house the State Fair of Texas. Every Fair-go- in his day, those few miles divided the right on the beach—nothing fancy, but ing family has their system, and ours is city from the country. We can’t go back with a deck where we can hang out in this: We enter at the gate nearest to the and watch your granddad play tight the evenings, with saltwater-crusted Texas Star—the 212-foot Ferris wheel end for the Wildcats or show his pig for hair and sun-burnished noses, still that is one of America’s tallest (and will the FFA, but it all happened near Hag- wearing swimsuits and wrapped in seem no less imposing as you grow big- gard Park, which today is shinier and sandy towels. If we plan ahead, we ger each year)—but we don’t ride it until better-kept than when I was a kid. Your can be there over Independence Day the very end. We’ll make a clockwise granddad would be amazed to find that and watch the fireworks over the Gulf. loop all the way around the grounds, Plano’s 15th Street, once the home of During the day we’ll lose track of time taking in the Auto Show; devouring a five-and-dime and secondhand record as we build sand castles with moats, corny dog from Fletcher’s at the feet of stores, has been transformed by restau- and when we get too hot we’ll jump in the fair’s 55-foot-tall mascot Big Tex; rants, trendy shops, and bars. the water, and I’ll take you out to where sampling salsas at the fascinating Food it’s up to my waist and you can’t touch & Fiber Pavilion; and admiring life-size Home the bottom. We can take a boat from the butter sculptures and blue-ribbon jam You are fortunate to be growing up north end of the island over to San Jose at the Embarcadero. We’ll also check in San Antonio, the Alamo City, where (St. Jo) Island, which offers 28 miles of out the agility-dog show starring for- tourists flock to take in all that’s right undeveloped natural beauty. We’ll see mer strays; the petting zoo showcasing here in our backyard. In the spring dolphins and all sorts of birds, and we’ll zebras alongside baby goats; and a few we’ve got Fiesta, an enormous citywide hunt for seashells and cast for redfish. rides and games—all punctuated by fre- cultural celebration that dates to 1891, Later, we’ll explore Mustang Island quent stops for the latest and greatest in and one of the nation’s largest and most State Park on Port A’s south end. deep-fried cuisine (including, God will- prestigious agricultural expositions in ing, 2014’s Twisted Texas Taco, a union the San Antonio Stock Show & Rodeo. The Great Outdoors of chicken-fried brisket, chili, fried okra, There’s nothing like the iconic, ever- Fishing has a prominent place on the cheese, country gravy, and slaw). lively River Walk lined with luminar- agenda, including at Lake Palestine, an ias and lit up for the holidays. And, oh, Styles for 18-mile-long, man-made lake on the Music Appreciation man, the food! While you can hardly Men, Women & Kids Neches River, just southwest of Tyler, As with the aforementioned Spring throw a rock without hitting an amaz- not far from where your ancestors set- Break trip to Padre, I’ll let you find a ing Tex-Mex, chicken-fried-steak, or tled in the 1880s. A few hundred miles more suitable escort to Austin’s yearly barbecue joint, I’m partial to Two Bros. southwest, just north of Uvalde at the mega music festivals. But Dale Watson BBQ Market, a northside brisket mec- southern edge of the Hill Country in or Jerry Jeff Walker on stage in laid- ca with picnic tables and shade trees. Concan, we’ll swim in the Frio River back outlaw-country utopia Lucken- We’ll drop in regularly on the way one summer and then, when dusk bach? I call that date. Roger Creager home from historic Brackenridge Park, falls, we’ll watch millions of Mexican pumping up a sweaty, packed-in crowd just north of downtown and home to the free-tailed bats depart from Frio Cave. at Gruene Hall, one of the state’s oldest San Antonio Zoo and postcard-beauti- Deeper into the Hill Country north of venues, is mine, too. And as soon as you ful Japanese Tea Garden. Fredericksburg, we’ll picnic at the top can walk, we’ll hope to catch Willie Nel- of Enchanted Rock, a natural dome son perform at the John T. Floore Coun- I have only scratched the surface here. of pink granite that offers spectacu- try Store in Helotes, where he got his Fortunately, you have your whole life lar views. That manageable hike will start 50 years ago. You’ll get a kick out ahead of you to explore this great state’s serve as the perfect warm-up for a trip of the boots and antique tools hanging 268,820 square miles. That’s a lot of Texas, out west to Big Bend National Park—a from the ceiling, and when you’re older, with plenty of time to make a nice dent. ★

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made in texas

found each Monday making quilts that memorialize African-American history and raise money for the schoolhouse’s upkeep. (The group breaks during the summer, from June through August.) Retreat.Always a Great Time Relax. in Kerrville! Inside the white, wood-paneled schoolhouse, vintage school desks sit in front of the school’s historic stage curtain, which bears the names of by- gone businesses that sponsored the cur- tain’s purchase. Visitors dropping by on a typical Monday will get an inside look at the artisans at work, from laying out patterns to placing the final stitches, and a history lesson on the significance May 21 - June 7 • Tickets Online - Kerrville Folk Festival.org of the old school to its students, teach- ers, and community. May 21-June 28 May 23-24 SW Gourd Fine Art 2nd Annual Kerrville Sale and Show Festival of the Arts kacckerrville.com kvartfest.com You’ll hear the whir of sewing machines, the For a complete listing of the full calendar of singing of spirituals, and the art events in Kerrville, go to KerrvilleTXArts.com memories of Pleasant Hill, one of Texas’ oldest African-American communities.

“The young people come back and they tell me what a good teacher I was Symphony of the Hills Kerrville Festival of the Arts and how I made an impact in their Stitching a Legacy lives,” says Flanagan, now 79 and a Roy Cavarretta founding member of the quilting group. Singing and sewing, the Pleasant Hill Quilters “[The school] meant a lot to me.” Ranging in age from 63 to 96, the 15 recall African-American history women of the Pleasant Hill Quilters text by Bobbie Jean Sawyer travel the country in their 25-passen- ger Ford F-250 minibus visiting high schools, universities, concert halls, and Southwest Gourd Show Museum of Western Art aJoyce Flanagan is sitting in the Linden school- churches from Texarkana to Tuskegee house where she taught more than 50 years ago, recalling the to showcase their patchwork. In their tiny desks and chairs, the children who stayed late for sewing nearly two dozen performances per Patchwork Pattern Patois Heritage lessons, and the day the radio delivered news of President Ken- year, the quilters weave together the Af- nedy’s assassination. These days, the two-classroom building For more on the oral rican-American traditions of quilting Vernelle history of Under- KerrvilleTexasCVB.com Richardson tucked in the Piney Woods of northeast Texas no longer echoes and spiritual hymns like “Wade in the with the chatter of schoolchildren. Instead you’ll hear the whir ground Railroad quilts, Water” and “Steal Away,” songs asso- hand-stitches a watch a video interview monkey wrench of sewing machines, the singing of spirituals, and the memories ciated with slaves fleeing to freedom of Pleasant Hill, one of Texas’ oldest African-American communities. with Pleasant Hill on the Underground Railroad. Dis- block for one of quilter Flo Stevenson the Pleasant Hill LThe Pleasant Hill School, built in 1925 to provide education for African-American playing a completed quilt onstage, the children, closed in 1964. Although the building continued to function as a space for at texashighways.com/ women explain how runaway slaves Quilting Group’s madeintx. blankets. community and church events, it deteriorated until a local preservation group se- and their supporters used quilt patterns cured a $50,000 grant from the Lowe’s Foundation through the National Trust for to communicate messages along the net- Historic Preservation to restore the schoolhouse in 2008. That’s when the Pleasant work of routes, sympathizers, and safe Hill Quilting Group adopted the building as its workshop, where members can be havens that helped the fugitives escape

20 texashighways.com | M ay 2015 photo: Michael Amador M ay 2015 | texashighways.com 21 made in texas

T-Bone Walker built across the South between 1917 and commemorating the Underground Blues Festival 1932. Booker T. Washington, a promi- Railroad and African-American oral The Pleasant Hill Quilting nent African-American educator and history or their promotion of the Pleas- Group will perform at the author, and philanthropist Julius Ros- ant Hill School’s historic importance T-Bone Walker Blues Festival, enwald, part owner of Sears, Roebuck as a Rosenwald School, education is at held June 5-6 in Longview. www. and Co., created the program to address the heart of the Pleasant Hill Quilting tbonewalkerbluesfest.com. the dismal conditions of black schools Group’s purpose. in the Jim Crow South. While schools “I always wanted to be a teacher,” Fla- for black children typically focused on nagan says. “And I’m still teaching.” ★ says. “Oral history is all that we had.” manual labor and homemaking, the In 2004, Flanagan and Stevenson Rosenwald program built new schools formed the quilting club to create their that advocated a curriculum of reading own quilts fashioned after the secret- and math, as well as agriculture. The Pleasant code patterns. Along with members of Amid the organized jumble of ma- Hill School the close-knit Pleasant Hill community, terial, thread, and patterns familiar is at 2722 FM 1399 the women embarked on a plan to teach to any avid quilter, the Pleasant Hill in Linden. Tours by younger generations about their an- schoolhouse still displays remnants of appointment. The cestry and help preserve a legacy that the Rosenwald days. Photos of former schoolhouse will host could otherwise fade from view. students and teachers line the walls, in- a Juneteenth celebration June 19 The club found a fitting home in the cluding one of Flanagan—one of the last and the biennial Pleasant Hill Home- restored schoolhouse, which itself is an two teachers at Pleasant Hill—standing coming July 10-12, including a July important artifact of African-American proudly next to a group of students mod- 12 performance by the Pleasant Hill history. The 1925 schoolhouse was one eling clothes she taught them to make. Quilting Group. Call 903/826-2495; Colorful Craft of more than 5,000 Rosenwald Schools Whether through their craftwork www.pleasanthilltexas.org. Alvis Dorsey and Flo Stevenson work on a quilt at the historic Pleasant Hill School.

to freedom in the days before abolition. according to oral history recounted in Flo Stevenson, a founding member the book, the “monkey wrench” pattern of the Pleasant Hill Quilters, says she represented a figure on the plantation, discovered the historical significance such as a blacksmith, with extensive of African-American quilts in 2004 knowledge of escape routes. A “flying when she found one made of faded, tat- geese” pattern pointed fugitives in a tered fabric at a flea market in Mont- certain direction. gomery, Alabama. Or, as she tells it, the While the book has sparked debate quilt found her. among historians about whether the “It was kind of like the quilt spoke to quilt code system falls under fact or me and said ‘buy me,’” Stevenson says. folklore, Stevenson says the tale is in- Stevenson was drawn to the quilt’s dicative of restrictions that discour- familiar “monkey wrench” pattern, a aged and often banned literacy among collection of rectangles and right tri- slaves. “If you were caught teaching a angles made to resemble a wrench. She slave how to read, you were in trouble had recently read about the pattern and the slave was in trouble,” Stevenson in a book, Hidden in Plain View: A Se- cret Story of Quilts and the Underground Railroad, which describes how symbolic Custom Quilts patterns in African-American quilts To order a quilt made by the Pleasant were used to covertly convey messages Hill Quilting Group, call 903/826-2495 to fugitive slaves fleeing to safety and to request an order form. Quilt prices freedom in the early 1800s. For example, start at about $300.

22 texashighways.com | M ay 2015 photo: Michael Amador M ay 2015 | texashighways.com 23 Detour MORE TO EXPLORE:

June, the town hosts a Roy Orbison fes- tival with events like a Pretty Woman Hometown Roy Pageant and a concert (plans for a 2015 festival were tentative as of press time). Wink’s Roy Orbison Museum honors famous son Wink’s main draw is the Roy Orbi- son Museum, a one-room celebration of text by Rachel Monroe everything Orbison, where you’ll find photographs, posters, guitar picks, and all sorts of memorabilia evoking Orbi- t’s not likely that many people stumble on Wink. the tiny Permian Basin town (population 940) is indeed “the middle of no- son’s time in Wink and beyond. Given Around town, where, 500 miles from everywhere,” as Roy Orbison, Wink’s most fa- Wink’s remoteness, odds are you’ll On A Whole New Level. bright orange mous son, once said. have the Orbison Museum to yourself. benches Despite its remote location approximately 60 miles northeast of Roy Orbison All the better to explore the museum’s small collection, such as a display case feature an Odessa, Wink draws visitors from as far afield as Egypt and Australia. Museum Imagine a place that towers overhead, even though it’s deep underground. A place filled with image of those They make the trek to Wink to honor Orbison, the black-clad crooner re- is at 205 E. Hendricks with copies of the Wink High School delicate formations of solid stone formed by single splashes of water. A place that’s eons old, but now-famous sponsible for hits including “Oh, Pretty Woman” and “Only the Lonely.” in Wink. Open by yearbook from the early 1950s, when feels brand new every time you see it. From giant chambers that echo with mystery to passages with glasses and Born in 1936 in Vernon, Orbison and his family moved west to Wink in 1946. As appointment, Orbison was a student. In his class pho- discovery around every bend, come see what makes Natural Bridge Caverns… Naturally AMAZING. proclaim Wink Ia young man, Orbison was teased for his thick glasses and lack of football skills. In Tue-Sat. Call tograph, Orbison beams out an earnest as “Home of the decades since, however, the residents of Wink have more than made up for it by 432/527-3743. Free. grin; in his senior quote, he proclaims Roy Orbison.” honoring Orbison every way they can. Around town, bright orange benches feature his desire to lead a Western band and an image of those now-famous glasses and proclaim Wink as “Home of Roy Orbi- “marry a beautiful dish.” NaturalBridgeCaverns.com son.” A historical plaque marks the empty lot where Orbison’s family home once Back then, Orbison played in a coun- 210-651-6101 stood. There’s an Orbison Avenue right in the center of town. And most years in try band with a handful of classmates; their name, the Wink Westerners, was coined by one of their high school teach- ers. The museum includes photographs You Got it of the Wink Westerners, as well as of Artifacts include the West Texas honky-tonks where Looking for an ADVENTURE? a pair of Roy Orbison cut his teeth playing rocka- Orbison’s well- billy and country standards. Orbison known, thick- had not yet adopted his signature cos- rimmed prescrip- tume of black clothes and sunglasses. tion sunglasses. Indeed, he hardly looked like a rock star at all. There’s no indication that within a decade, he’d become one of the most famous musicians in the country, with more than two dozen Top 40 hits to his name. The many photographs on the muse- um’s walls trace Orbison’s rise to fame. After graduating from high school in 1954, Orbison attended college inter- mittently in Denton and Odessa as he honed his musical style with bands including the Wink Westerners and The Teen Kings. Orbison had short- term deals with Sun Records and RCA Victor in the late 1950s before signing with Monument Records in 1959, set- ting the stage for a remarkable four- year run. With songs like “Only the Lonely,” “Crying,” “Dream Baby,” and www.WildlifeRanchTexas.com • 830.438.7400 “Love Hurts,” Orbison showcased his ®

24 texashighways.com | M ay 2015 photo: Kevin Stillman M ay 2015 | texashighways.com 25 Detour texas Ticket

three-octave voice and his uncanny pair of Orbison’s iconic prescription Ray fact, after touring with the likes of the ability to channel deep emotions in a Ban sunglasses, which were donated to Beatles in 1963 and the Beach Boys in Rock Art three-minute pop song. Many of these the museum by the singer’s second wife, 1964, Orbison found his music falling out The Vulcan Gas Company, early 45s and LPs are displayed in an Barbara, after he died of a heart attack of favor, perceived as outdated. Then he Armadillo World Head- open case at the museum, ready for you in 1988 at age 52. was hit by a series of tragedies: In 1966, quarters, and other Austin to flip through and admire their vintage All the LPs, posters, books, cassettes, his first wife, Claudette, died in a motor- clubs of the era hired poster cover art—though, alas, there is no re- and videos devoted to Orbison might cycle accident; two years later, while he artists to promote their concerts. cord player available to listen to them. lead you to believe that he was wildly was on tour in England, his Nashville- The collection even includes an original successful throughout his entire life. In area home burned down. Two of his three sons were killed in the fire. (He later had two more sons with Barbara.)

Get FREE If you don’t know all Official Visitor Info Kit the Orbison lore, take the time to brush up before you visit the museum— it’ll make the objects all the more poignant.

It wasn’t until the final decade of his life that Orbison began to be rediscov- Schicke Boutiquen! ered, thanks to famous fans like Bruce Looks like we speak your language. Springsteen and David Lynch, who fea- tured Orbison’s song “In Dreams” in his Warm up your Kreditkarte. Because tucked 1986 film Blue Velvet. Van Halen scored away in over 150 “schicke” shops, galleries and a hit with its version of “Oh, Pretty Woman” in 1982, and in 1987, Orbison boutiques here in Fredericksburg, you’ll find was inducted into the Rock and Roll creations by local artisans. Women’s fashion. A Hall of Fame. The Orbison Museum staggering collection of home décor. Antiques, has only a handful of artifacts pertain- Western wear, antiquarian and Texana books. ing to Orbison’s return to the charts as a Gourmet food. Shops selling award-winning member of the Traveling Wilburys, the wine from our local wineries. And even supergroup he formed with Tom Petty, Lederhosen. One tip: bring comfortable shoes. George Harrison, Bob Dylan, and Jeff Drawn to the Scene Lynne, in the months before his death. VisitFredericksburgTX.com | 866 997 3600 The Roy Orbison Museum lacks ex- Wittliff Collections exhibit tracks planatory signs to walk curious visitors through this history, though your do- Early Austin music posters cent will answer questions and offer up text by Michael Corcoran Orbison anecdotes if you ask. Perhaps if you make it to the museum, you’re al- ready a fan—and you probably already uring Austin’s counterculture heyday, know the story. If you don’t know all the A concert from the opening of the Vulcan Gas Company in 1967 Orbison lore, take the time to brush up wasn’t a reality to the closing of the Armadillo World Headquarters before you visit the museum—it’ll make in 1980, a concert wasn’t a reality until it was adver- Musing App until it was For an interactive tour of the the objects all the more poignant. advertised tised with a mind-blowing poster. The images and in- In the end, though, this small, remote formation went together like words and music to cre- exhibition, visitors can down- with a mind- load Musing, a free app that museum isn’t just a monument to Orbi- blowing poster. ate a siren song for fans. son; it’s also a testament to Wink’s long- But as exemplified by the exhibit HOMEGROWN: provides audio and video info standing pride and affection for a man Austin Music Posters, 1967 to 1982, which runs through July 3 at The Wit- on the posters using image- who often felt like a misfit.★ Dtliff Collections at Texas State University in San Marcos, the flat artifacts of recognition technology. 26 texashighways.com | M ay 2015 Posters courtesy The Wittliff Collections M ay 2015 | texashighways.com 27 24-TexasHighways-May2015-HPVert-4.625x7-shopping.indd 1 2/20/15 8:51 AM texas Ticket

with lesser talents. We just loved art and felt like we were all in it together.” Though the accepted chronology has Austin artists following San Francis- co’s lead, the first “’60s underground comic” was actually produced in Aus- tin by artist and historian Jack “Jaxon” Jackson in 1964. Jackson’s “God Nose” came out four years before the first Zap Comix hit the streets of San Francisco. Jackson’s artwork and copies of The Ranger, the University of Texas’ irrev- erent magazine that unleashed Shelton, greet you in glass cases as you enter the exhibit. The beginning is always a good place to start. As during its time of focus, Home- grown is rich with images of armadil- los, the local hippie-slacker symbol that set Austin apart from the Haight-Ash- bury scene of national obsession. The ’dillo was Franklin’s doing. In 1968, he was hired to draw a poster for a “love- in” concert at Wooldridge Park and was thumbing through a zoological guide- book when he came across an arma- dillo. That was the critter, that rat with TEXAS BIG aluminum siding, that years before had GAME AWARDS Signs of the Times nearly scared the life out of a 10-year-old May 16 The exhibit Franklin when one ran between his legs ------includes posters on a hunting trip with his dad. Franklin NECHES RIVER depicting blues drew a ’dillo smoking a joint—an image RENDEZVOUS musicians included in the exhibit—thereby creat- June 6 and the punk/ ing a new mascot for Austin’s weird------new wave era. ness. Surreal visions and lighthearted ADAMS GOLF PRO irreverence, such as Yeates’ tiger with TOUR SERIES the guitar neck tongue for a Bob Seger July 6-11 anticipation have become, in most cases, one of the best things.) But a poster is a Sam Yeates to make their shows seem the last thing standing. Clubs close and lasting excuse to daydream back to your cooler. These are just a few of the artists HOMEGROWN: are torn down. Bands break up. But skinny-jeans days. whose posters hang at the Wittliff. Austin posters endure as history to admire. Great music inspires creativity of Also well-represented are the pio- Music Posters, With music by the bands featured in all kinds, and the visual artists of the neers of the Austin poster scene: Gil- 1967 to 1982 the posters gently piped in, the multiple Texas capital were drawn to sheets of bert Shelton, the original Vulcan art The exhibit runs exhibition rooms are filled with record- paper where they could create visual director, and Jim Franklin, who would through July 3 at the ings for the eyes. One hundred and forty music. Clubs catering to a range of replace him in ’68, when Shelton moved Wittliff Collections, vintage posters recall the consecutive genres—from the hippie-blues-country to San Francisco and launched his un- located on the 7th musical eras of psychedelia, blues, pro- mix at the Vulcan, Armadillo, and Soap derground comic “The Fabulous Furry floor of the Alkek Library at Texas gressive country, and punk/new wave Creek Saloon, to the blues at Antone’s, Freak Brothers.” A spirit of unity State University in San Marcos. that gave Austin its reputation as a live and the new wave scene at Raul’s and among the artists far outweighed any Hours are 8-5 Mon-Wed and Fri; music mecca. The worst thing about Club Foot—hired such posterfarians competition, Franklin said. “There was 8-7 Thu; 11-5 Sat; and 2-6 Sun. Free. VisitLufkin.com seeing a band in a club is that when the as Micael Priest, Danny Garrett, Kerry no trace of jealousy or animosity be- Call 512/245-2313; www.thewittliff 936-633-0349 show’s over, it’s over. (Also, sometimes Awn, Guy Juke, Ken Featherston, and tween the artists,” he said. “That comes collections.txstate.edu.

28 texashighways.com | M ay 2015 Posters courtesy The Wittliff Collections M Ay 2015 | texashighways.com 29 texas Ticket souvenir

concert, gave Austin’s poster scene its poster, it was made so that the informa- the importance of blues to the develop- own identity. tion could be cut out and the rest could ment of Austin’s music scene, featur- The image always came first for stand alone as a work of art.” ing drawings of musicians like Muddy Franklin and the others, with the de- The rooms of the exhibit are divided Waters, Freddie King, and Mance Lip- tails of time and place included at the into five groupings, starting with Vul- scomb. The stroll continues with a room poster’s bottom or edge. “The music can Gas Company and psychedelic devoted to “Reimagining Texas,” which was the castle, separated by a moat,” images touting bands such as Con- is the umbrella shading such genre- Franklin said. “Then came the village, queroo and Shiva’s Headband. The bending Austin acts as Willie Nelson, the marketplace. Every time I drew a “Blues Portraits” section highlights Doug Sahm, Freda and the Firedogs, and Greezy Wheels, who mixed musi- cal styles and substances to create a new kind of country groove.

Clubs close and are torn down. Bands break up. But posters endure as history to admire.

Another exhibit area contains a host of posters for “Traveling Bands,” from the Grateful Dead to Taj Mahal and Bruce Springsteen. The last stop on this Austalgia train is a smaller area featuring posters of the “Punk and New Wave” scenes of the late 1970s and early ’80s, the prime time of local bands like the Big Boys, the Dicks, and Joe “King” Carrasco. But your journey through Austin’s glory years isn’t over when Homegrown ends. Next door, The Wittliff Collec- tions’ exhibition Armadillo Rising: Aus- tin’s Music Scene in the 1970s features some of the best Willie Nelson memo- The Smallest Gifts rabilia available, including a songbook of tunes he’d written by age 11. The two A birthday wish at McAllen’s Quinta Mazatlan shows go together like queso and jalape- ños on the famous nachos at the Arma- text by Daniel Blue Tyx dillo World Headquarters. ★

Our backyard he 10-minute drive from our house in McAllen HOMEGROWN: is no Quinta to Quinta Mazatlan, one of the most popular sites in the Rio Catalogued Grande Valley’s World Birding Center network, takes us past Mazatlan, Find More The University of Texas but it turns historic downtown, the airport, and the shopping mall—not Press has released a exactly what you’d expect for a trip to a lush nature center. Online out that birds Want to attract catalog of HOMEGROWN: aren’t really And that is precisely the point, says Quinta Mazatlan Man- Austin Music Posters 1967 ager Colleen Hook. The McAllen metro area is one of the fast- hummingbirds to that picky, as your garden? to 1982, edited by Alan long as food est-growing areas in the United States, yet it lies at the conver- Schaefer. The survey of gence of two major migratory flyways. “Our niche is a ‘home and a habitat,’” Hook Read more at and water are texashighways.com/ Austin music poster art available. Texplains. “We serve as a demonstration site of what you can design around your own from the time period home to support and attract wildlife. More than 225 bird species have been docu- webextra. includes 122 poster images. mented here. It’s truly an urban sanctuary.”

30 texashighways.com | M ay 2015 photo: © Larry Ditto M ay 2015 | texashighways.com 31 souvenir

for everyone from toddlers to Mas- Although some birds so close that we could see the jeweled ter Gardeners, as well as the annual need large expanses collar that lends the species its name. Hummingbird Days in September and of woodland to survive, Byrdie’s face radiated joy. His birthday the Vida Verde Earth Day festival in others—like hummingbirds— wish had come true. April—Byrdie and Ana had made a are actually well-suited Since then, our success with the beeline for the Forest Sculpture Trail. to urban living. feeder has inspired us to try our hand There, 25 lifelike bronze sculptures at planting our own garden of native of Valley fauna—ranging from big species—and hummingbirds visit by cats to a buff-bellied hummingbird— the dozens. Our backyard is no Quinta are set against the backdrop of their His wish: To bring hummingbirds to Mazatlan, but it turns out that birds preferred habitats. Next, we made our our own yard. aren’t really that picky, as long as food way to the children’s Discovery Center, I was touched by the simplicity of and water are available. Thanks to Byr- where the kids burned off some of his birthday wish. But I was also more die, our family has a gift better than any their boundless energy by climbing than a little worried that he’d be dis- plastic trinket. True to the spirit of the logs and boulders. appointed should no birds arrive. At “mansion with a mission,” we have Soon it was time to return to the man- home, I helped Byrdie follow the in- brought the hummingbirds home. ★ sion’s gift shop to make good on my structions for preparing the nectar, and birthday promise. I helped Ana choose we installed a hook for hanging the a nifty owl pen while Byrdie browsed feeder on the back porch. For a few days, Quinta Mazatlan through toys, books, and handmade my fears appeared to be confirmed. No is at 600 Sunset Dr. Mexican papier-mâché bird rattles. hummingbirds arrived, and Byrdie in McAllen. Hours: At last, he announced his selection: a grew impatient. Tue-Sat 8-5, Thu 8-7. red Best-1 Hummingbird Feeder ($12), Then, one morning, there it was: a mi- Call 956/681-3370; which was manufactured in Poteet. gratory ruby-throated hummingbird, www.quintamazatlan.com.

Hummingbird Haven garden. As Byrdie and Ana marveled Quinta Mazatlan’s lush grounds at the tiny birds, which darted from one attract hundreds of bird species, nectar plant to the next, I sat on a stone including six species of hum- bench, listening to the distant sounds of mingbirds. The common ruby- the city mingle with the gurgle of the throated hummer (left) measures fountain and the rustle of native Turk’s less than four inches. cap and esperanza plants. Although some birds need large expanses of Quinta Mazatlan’s “home” is an of a ‘mansion with a mission’—restor- woodland to survive, others—like hum- 80-year-old Spanish Colonial Revival- ing habitat one backyard at a time.” mingbirds—are actually well-suited to style mansion—at more than 6,700 High on a hill, the mansion was the urban living. The secret is to provide square feet, it’s one of the largest adobe first thing I saw when I arrived with them with the right kind of habitat— structures in Texas. Complete with a my bird-loving son Byrdie and his such as colorful nectar-producing na- Roman bath and thousands of hand- plucky two-year-old sister Ana. It was tive plants. If you build it, the birds will painted tiles, it was the wonder of Byrdie’s fourth birthday, and I had let come: Quinta Mazatlan is frequented by McAllen when it was finished in 1935. him choose our destination for the af- four different species of hummingbirds, But the property had fallen into disre- ternoon. “Please follow the red brick and recently welcomed broad-billed pair by the time it went up for auction in path to the main house,” the sign at and blue-throated varieties—extremely 1998. That’s when city leaders stepped the gate invited, and the kids sprinted rare visitors from central Mexico. in and purchased Quinta Mazatlan, along the palm-lined promenade in After 15 minutes of hummingbird envisioning a public space that could that direction. watching, we made it into the man- protect ecologically sensitive land, de- Before we could make it to the gor- sion. But a full tour would have to wait liver environmental education pro- geous, hand-carved doors, though, for another day. By the time I managed grams, and attract tourists to the re- we were sidetracked by an invitingly to grab a handful of fliers for upcom- gion. “Thus,” Hook says, “the creation tranquil courtyard: the hummingbird ing events—the park offers programs

32 texashighways.com | M ay 2015 photos: © Larry Ditto M ay 2015 | texashighways.com 33 drive Made in texas + Texas Family + Texas Wild + Detour

Made in Texas 50 Years of TEXAS A Musical’s milestone anniversary reflects the Panhandle’s enduring spirit

text by Russell Graves

photo: © Russell Graves July 2015 | texashighways.com 11 Made in texas

he infectious opening song The musical scratch out a place for himself in the Texas,” choreographed water jets that of TEXAS—a bouncy Broadway-style chronicles the tough environment of the Texas Pan- enliven the event’s finale, a patriotic tune sprinkled with Texas swagger— fictional tale handle in the late 1800s. tribute to Texas and the United States. sticks in your head long after the outdoor of Calvin A cast of more than 60 actors, danc- “What I’ve discovered is that every- musical ends. “There’s no better place Armstrong, ers, and singers (about a third of them one takes a very personal experience TraDition at Play to be than Texas,” proclaim the singers a young students at nearby West Texas A&M from the show,” says Dave Yirak, a TEXAS features and dancers, sweeping their arms to the homesteader University in Canyon) performs the 17-year veteran of the play and the a cast of more colorful backdrop of Palo Duro Canyon determined to story, which incorporates historical artistic director for the past 10 years. than 60 perform- State Park. “You can look around and see in Texas.” scratch out a events like wildfires and the arrival “People who’ve worked on the show ers, along with TCelebrating its 50th season this summer, TEXAS dazzles place for of the railroad, plus legendary real-life have a deep love and appreciation for the special effects audiences with its one-of-a-kind blend of musical theater and himself in characters such as Comanche Chief production, and that translates to the like a nightly scenery in Pioneer Amphitheatre, an 1,800-seat venue at the the tough Quanah Parker and cattleman Charles audience. The audience, in turn, takes fireworks show. base of Palo Duro Canyon, located 12 miles east of the town environment Goodnight. State-of-the-art sound, away their own special memories.” of Canyon. Against the red rock walls of the nation’s second- of the Texas stage lighting, and pyrotechnics—even TEXAS traces its roots to 1960, when largest canyon, the musical chronicles the fictional tale of Panhandle in a startling bolt of lightning—enhance Canyon resident Margaret Harper, Calvin Armstrong, a young homesteader determined to the late 1800s. the show, as do the “Dancing Waters of a teacher, musician, and community leader, reached out to Paul Green, a North Carolina playwright known for writing musical dramas based on local history in other locations in the United States. Within a year, Green visited the Panhandle and agreed to create the musical. Pioneer Amphitheatre opened in 1962 and presented the mu- sical Fandangle (still performed every June as Fort Griffin Fandangle in Al- bany), and in 1966, the first season of show will punch up the grand TEXAS opened. finale with extra fireworks and The show has changed over the an enhanced water show. There years, but not very much. Yirak says the will also be a reunion for alumni artistic staff “tries to give the audience performers on the weekend of something a little different each year,” July 17th with festivities includ- such as subtle changes to a scene or ing a party, tours of West Texas two, or more elaborate features like the A&M University, dance classes, choreographed water jets and the patri- and a trip to the show with a otic grand finale. “Above all, we try to maintain a re- chuck-wagon dinner. spect for the original story and not According to the foundation’s count, change the message too much,” Yirak about 67,000 visitors attend the 65 sum- says. “We want to reflect the people and mertime performances each year. Of culture of the Panhandle in our presen- those attendees, 60 percent travel from tation so that everyone can see that this more than 100 miles away. On a wall of is a magical place to live.” the concession shop that sells drinks The Texas Panhandle Heritage and souvenirs, maps of Texas and the Texas Foundation, the nonprofit that produces world are covered with pins marking starts at sunset (about 8:30) on the show, plans to make this summer’s the hometowns of those who’ve attended Tuesdays through Sundays, June 50th season a noteworthy one. On the TEXAS, a geographic representation 2 to August 15, at Pioneer Am- summer’s closing night, August 15, spanning the globe. phitheatre in Palo Duro Canyon the cast and crew will bury a 50th- Almost every summer for the past 21 State Park. Ticket prices range anniversary time capsule containing years, I’ve taken my family and friends from $16.95 to $30.95 for adults items such as a souvenir program, a from afar to see the musical. While the and $12.95 to $26.95 for children 12 video of the show, and pictures of the play is mostly the same from year to and younger. Call 806/655-2181; 2015 cast and crew. Also on closing year, the production introduces enough www.texas-show.com. night (and Fourth of July weekend), the tweaks to the story line and various

photos: © Russell Graves JUly 2015 | texashighways.com 13 Made in texas

special effects to retain my interest in the epic tale. Aside from the play itself, the entire TEXAS experience is enjoyable for the family. Before the show begins, visi- tors gather outside on the amphithe- ater patio while a live band plays famil- iar country music songs. Others attend the pre-show Chuck Wagon Bar-B-Que, a buffet meal of brisket, sausage, and sides, held in a picnic area in the adja- cent foothills.

On a wall of the concession shop that sells drinks and souvenirs, maps of Texas and the world are covered with pins marking the hometowns of those who’ve attended TEXAS, a geographic representa- tion spanning the globe.

Beyond the picnic area, families ex- plore the surrounding hills of the state park, which are strewn with rocks and boulders. With a short climb to one of the nearby hilltops, hikers take in a sweeping, panoramic view of the sheer, red canyon walls stippled with various hues of gray, ochre, and yellow. Contrasting with the rocks, the canyon floor is a patchwork of green mesquite and juniper. When people from outside of Texas think about Texas, this is prob- ably close to what they imagine. The rugged beauty of Palo Duro Canyon ties directly into TEXAS and its timeless story of love, hardships, and sacrifice. As such, audiences con- nect with the struggles and triumphs of Calvin Armstrong and the support- ing characters. Their pioneer spirit and Whether it’s finding the perfect location for your wedding or heritage of resiliency still shape the mastering new skills with your scout troop, there is always Texas Panhandle to this day. ★ something to discover or learn* in Bastrop County. Come stay a weekend with us and get away without having to go far away. EXPLORE OUR FRIENDLY NATURE. EXPLORE BASTROP COUNTY .COM Visit Canyon And Amarillo i Find Canyon and Amarillo tourism *Please don’t wear shorts while officiating a wedding. information at visitcanyontx.com and visitamarillo.com.

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animals representing more than 500 Once you reach the surface, you can species. Memorable exhibits include hop on the M-Line Trolley. Its six vin- Giants of the Savanna, which features tage streetcars run through the Up- lions, elephants, and zebras in natural- town neighborhood between City- istic habitats. Children enjoy the oppor- place/Uptown Station and downtown tunity to feed giraffes by hand from a Dallas. Stops along the way include the platform that provides eye-to-eye inter- chic West Village Shopping Center and action. Through September 7, the zoo is Klyde Warren Park, a five-acre green also showcasing more than 25 roaring, space built over a freeway that offers ev- animatronic dinosaurs in its Giants of erything from a playground and ping- the Jurassic exhibit. pong tables to concerts, croquet, and The zoo opens 9 a.m.-5 p.m. March food trucks. through October 23; it closes at 4 p.m. the rest of the year. General admis- your kids (or you) may have ever seen; Downtown Carrollton Station sion is $15; $12 for seniors and kids ages four are 138 feet, which made them the (Green Line) three to 11. longest escalators west of the Missis- This station is so close to Babe’s sippi when the station opened in 2000, Chicken Dinner House that your nose Cityplace/Uptown Station according to DART. As if that weren’t will lure you there as soon as you step (Red, Orange, and Blue lines) enough fun, you can also ride the in- off the train. Babe’s has an ultra-casual This is the only underground station clinators—elevators that travel on atmosphere and a simple menu—five in the DART system, with tracks that an incline. Their walls are windows, entrées, including fried chicken and are 10 stories below street level. The six prompting kids to press their noses to chicken-fried steak, and six sides, such escalators that carry riders from the the glass and watch their destination as mashed potatoes and green beans—all On Track for Fun platform to the surface are the longest draw closer. served family-style. If you have trouble Klyde Warren Park, with attractions including a splash pad and ping-pong tables, is within walking distance of the DART St. Paul and Pearl/Arts District light-rail stations. DART Hopping Kid-friendly excursions on the Dallas light-rail system

text by Dan Koller

f your kids are like mine, they’re fas- way to explore the Dallas area, offering cinated by trains. Perhaps it’s the powerful sound access to a variety of the city’s attrac- of the horn at crossings, the rumble of locomotives For my six- tions. For my six- and nine-year-old chugging alongside the highway, or the magic of and nine-year- sons, the light-rail journey is half the an unusual sight found mostly in cartoons, movies, old sons, fun. Here are five family-friendly des- and storybooks. Maybe it’s just the allure of travel- the light-rail tinations that justify climbing aboard. ing without seatbelts. Whatever the reason, chil- journey is dren love trains—and so do many of us grownups. half the fun. Dallas Zoo Station The Dallas Area Rapid Transit (DART) light-rail system (Red Line) Iincludes 90 miles of track and 62 stations along four color- This station is just steps from the en- coded lines. The system, which recorded 96,380 passenger trance to the Dallas Zoo, which is open trips per weekday in 2014, bustles with commuters on a daily 364 days a year. (Even the animals get basis. But it also provides an entertaining and convenient Christmas off.) It’s home to some 2,200

16 texashighways.com | July 2015 photos: Michael Amador July 2015 | texashighways.com 17 texas Family texas wild getting your server’s attention, it’s likely candy—think Goo Goo Clusters and Downtown Plano Station because he or she’s engaged in one of Double Decker Moon Pies—and 250 (Red and Orange lines) the periodic renditions of “The Hokey bottled sodas, such as Sioux City Sar- This station is right next to Haggard Unbridled Spirit Pokey,” which your kids will be invited saparilla, dazzle the eyes. No matter Park, where you will find two things to join. Babe’s opens 11 a.m.-9 p.m. daily, how varied your family’s tastes, every- important to all young families: play- TravaAsa Austin’s Equine Encounters but closes between 2 and 5 on weekdays. one will find something to satisfy their grounds and restrooms. If you want text by Lori Moffatt For dessert, stroll across the square sweet tooth. Bloom’s is open until “8- to maintain the train theme, you can to Bloom’s Candy & Soda Pop Shop, ish” Sunday to Wednesday and “9-ish” also visit the Interurban Railway Mu- where more than 800 varieties of Thursday to Saturday. seum, a monument to the electric trains y horse Annie, a 16-year-old chestnut that linked regional towns from Waco mare with soulful eyes and long lashes, relaxes her to Denison in the first half of the 20th Travaasa ears and ambles calmly toward me in the round pen, Century. Admission is free, but the offers more then breaks out in a yawn so wide I think she might Find More Online hours are limited: 10 a.m.-2 p.m. week- than a be laughing at me. But things aren’t always as they A chat with Travaasa days, 1 p.m.-5 p.m. Saturdays. On the typical spa’s seem. Wrangler Jodie James tips back his hat and Farm Manager other side of the tracks is downtown roster of looks upon us with a glimmer of pride. “That’s just Kim Grabosky at Plano, a quaint historic district with indulgences about the biggest compliment a horse can pay a per- www.texashighways. restaurants—Kelly’s Eastside offers a and fine meals. son,” he tells me in a calm drawl. Say what? com/webextra. comfortable patio and a wide-ranging MOf course, Annie didn’t say a word, and that’s the point. I’m here at Travaasa, menu of sandwiches and burgers—and a resort and spa on the outskirts of Austin, hoping to learn more about non-ver- boutiques, such as La Foofaraw, an an- bal communication via the resort’s popular Equine Encounter program, one of tiques, home décor, and floral shop. many activities included in a stay. Surrounded by the cedar brakes, shin oaks, and St. Paul Station (All four lines) In the heart of downtown Dallas, this station is just a few blocks from Klyde Warren Park, the Dallas Museum of Art, and the Nasher Sculpture Center. The Dallas Museum of Art offers free gen- eral admission, while the Nasher is free for children younger than 12 and $10 for adults. Both museums offer an array of activities for children, including activity tote bags at the DMA and the Nasher’s Naughty or nice? family programming and free entry on the first Saturday of each month. Before going back to the DART sta- It may be too early to tell which list you’ll make, but it’s never too tion, mosey to Klyde Warren Park for early to reserve a ride on the Austin Steam Train’s North Pole a snack and to encourage the kids to Flyer. Get a head start on Christmas shopping and be prepared burn some energy before boarding the to catch the fun this December as Santa and Mrs. Claus take you train—all the better to enjoy the ride. ★ for a ride on the jolliest train around.

Visit our website to reserve your seats for the North Pole Flyer, RIDING DART departing December 2015. For DART rail system information, including maps and schedules, visit www.dart.org. Day passes cost $5 for adults and $2.50 for children ages 5-14; two-hour passes cost $2.50 and $1.25, respectively. Children younger than five ride free with a paying adult.

18 texashighways.com | July 2015 photo: Courtesy Travaasa Experiential Resorts July 2015 | texashighways.com 19 texas Wild

BOOGIE DOWN in New Braunfels. As the Texas temps start to climb, fun-seekers flock to New Braunfels. This great city is home to the world-famous Schlitterbahn Waterpark as well as two pristine rivers, with dozens of outfitters standing by to help you make a splash in a tube, canoe or kayak. There are countless ways to beat the heat... in New Braunfels.

Canyon Ride For an additional fee, Travaasa (800) 572-2626 guests can ride horses through the canyons surround- ing the resort.

rugged canyons of the Balcones Can- Keith delves into a topic I find “Our program is about giving the yonlands Preserve, Travaasa offers surprising for a gravelly-voiced horses a stress-free environment, keep- more than a typical spa’s roster of in- cowboy who has wrangled ing them in a relaxed state of mind,” he dulgences and fine meals. Yes, a mas- horses his whole life on ranches says. “Horses are very aware. They know sage here may lull you into a dream from Wyoming to Texas: everything that’s going on around them, state, and Chef Ben Baker’s attention the power of vulnerability. and their self-preservation is geared to- to wholesome yet delicious cuisine may ward good leadership. Within the herd, make you wish for a personal chef. But they’re looking for a strong animal to this place is about experiences. In fact, leadership skills and projecting our con- keep them safe, so if we take that role, your room rate includes unlimited ac- fidence and energy. In the distance, the it comes down to how precise and con- cess to dozens of activities, including sounds of chortling chickens and the sistent we can be with our energy and to Texas: the power of vulnerability. a ropes challenge course with a climb- staccato songs of cicadas meld with the our cues to them so we create an envi- “Thanks to a guest, I discovered ing wall and zipline, archery sessions, breathy whuffs and musical whinnies of ronment where they feel comfortable, Brené Brown and her TED talks,” he yoga and Pilates, swimming in a saline a dozen horses as they spy us approach- where they trust us.” says, “and I was struck with how much pool, two-step lessons, chicken-keeping, ing the paddock area. Jodie releases Our exercise will be simple: With- what she said applies to our relation- wine-tasting, making herbal tinctures, them into the dusty arena, and they gal- out saying a word or touching them, ship with horses.” Brown, a research geocaching, hiking, riding a mechani- lop and buck, then suddenly drop to the we’ll direct their movements, ask them professor at the University of Houston, cal bull, and, in the stables near the re- ground, one by one, rolling in the dirt to change directions, then ask them to maintains that in human relationships, sort’s 3-acre farm, a tranquil exercise like gleeful puppies. Equine and Agri- come to us. Our body language will do we cherish vulnerability in others but in self-awareness and sensitivity called culture Manager Keith Moon, who’ll the communicating for us. are often afraid to show it ourselves. the Equine Encounter. guide us through today’s exercises, Then Keith delves into a topic I find “Horses,” says Keith, “are absolutely IrvingArtsCenter.com But before the five of us enter the smiles. “Part of that is stretching,” he surprising for a gravelly-voiced cow- vulnerable, and they are not afraid to round pen with our horse, we’ll need tells us. “It helps to realign their spines. boy who has wrangled horses his show it. They are able to read us the 3333 N. MacArthur Blvd., Irving, TX 75062 • Open 7 days a week • Free parking to learn a few things about trusting our But it also gets the bugs off.” whole life on ranches from Wyoming minute we walk into their presence;

20 texashighways.com | July 2015 photos: Courtesy Travaasa Experiential Resorts JUly 2015 | texashighways.com 21 texas Wild Detour they can judge a situation intuitively moves faster; when he trails it on the Travaasa and know if they should flee or if they ground, she slows down. He makes sub- Experiential Resort Austin can stay and check things out. If our en- tle shifts in positioning and she changes is at 13500 FM 2769 in Austin, about ergy is good, then they are good.” direction. They are as in tune as musi- a half-hour’s drive from downtown. I get the sense that Jodie and Keith cians in a symphony. Rates range from $275 per night are sizing us up as they choose a horse “I won’t ever touch her. The whip is a (including activities but not meals) to whose personality might complement way to project energy,” he says. “See that $500 (including activities, 3 meals, our own. “That’s Abby,” says Keith, “a inside ear, focused on me? I’m going and a $125 credit toward spa services spirited little cutting horse we got down to ask her to walk now. Her head will or private classes). Call 512/258-7243; Housed in a in Goliad. That paint horse is Pepper; lower, and she’s calm. Now, I’m going www.travaasa.com/austin. 4,000-square- she came here from East Texas. And to ask her to come in to me. I take away foot brick this is Annie. She’s an old campaigner. all the pressure, all the focus.” He low- building, The We can put her with just about anyone.” ers the whip, and looks away. “Probably Pink Pistol is And so Annie goes with me. We the hardest part of the whole exercise is And then Annie yawns. an explosion of groom our horses first, smoothing their patience,” he says. “That’s a release of tension,” says sparkly, quirky lustrous coats with paddle brushes, I am not known for my patience. And Keith. “When we do round-pen work, fun that puts a making broad circles on their flanks, so after a few awkward turns, after I fi- there’s a certain amount of tension, be- boutique spin shoulders, and muscular necks. Annie nally gain confidence and Annie and cause we’re taking the dominant role. on Lambert’s seems to like it and whuffs her approval. I are gliding and turning in the ring, When she yawns, she’s saying ‘I feel rebellious and We watch Jodie take his horse into the I ask her to come to me. I’m relieved comfortable. I am releasing tension and rocking style of round pen and direct her around the when her ears relax and her head levels I feel comfortable doing so.’” country music. space in a fluid movement that resem- with her shoulders. “That’s where the And I wonder how much simpler bles a dance. When he holds his whip expression ‘level-headed’ comes from,” human relationships might be if we felt high to signal a higher energy, she offers Keith. tranquil being an open book. ★

The Shop That Miranda Built Miranda Lambert’s Pink Pistol brings country blinG to Lindale

text by Celestina Blok

elcome to Lindale,” Lambert’s retail spin on her rebellious announces the vinyl bill- and rocking style of country music. “ board with a picture of a Raised in a musical family in Lindale, platinum blonde holding a the 32-year-old Lambert cut her musi- guitar. “Hometown of Mi- The Pink Pistol cal teeth as a teenager in Texas before randa Lambert.” is at 100 E. Hubbard hitting it big in Nashville. She opened Located 13 miles north of St. in Lindale. the Lindale shop in October 2013 after Tyler, the East Texas town Open Mon-Sat 10-6, experiencing success with her origi- (population about 5,300) is our destination not for a potential and Sun 12-6. Call nal location in Tishomingo, Oklahoma, Wglimpse of the country music superstar (we’d just seen her the 903/882-9305; www. where she now lives with Blake Shelton, night before during the Dallas stop of her “Certified Platinum” thepinkpistol.com. her country-crooning, TV-star husband. tour), but to visit The Pink Pistol, Lambert’s bling-filled bou- Both small towns have seen an increase tique. We’re among the hundreds of visitors—many of them in tourism and economic development devoted “Ran fans”—who flock to town each week to check out thanks to Lambert’s fairy godmother-like

22 texashighways.com | July 2015 photo: Kevin Stillman July 2015 | texashighways.com 23 Detour

a blush called Electric Pink for her guitar. An avid “The most popular is probably Crazy “junktiquer,” Ex-Girlfriend,” says our server while the singer filling small plastic sample cups with makes regular the sweet white table wine. My favorite is trips to Kerosene, a straw-colored, dry and tart Round Top, white wine named for Lambert’s first Texas’ antiques hit single. capital, to “She comes in pretty regularly,” our search for server says when I ask about Lambert’s in- weathered volvement in the store. “She likes to work and worn finds on the window displays. A lot of times to repurpose. people don’t even notice when she’s here.” Lambert’s decorative touches and love for antiques are apparent upon closer re- view of The Pink Pistol. An avid “junk- tiquer,” the singer makes regular trips to Round Top, Texas’ antiques capital, to search for weathered and worn finds magic wand of entrepreneurialism. “I should get this one for my sister,” to repurpose. Decor like classic toys, “The Pink Pistol has brought a big says my friend, holding up a white books, and a vintage mannequin head boost to our downtown area, just from tank top with the words “Mama Tried” or two enhances the eccentric mer- the number of people who come here for printed in black. chandising presentations throughout that store,” says John Clary, president On this typical Friday afternoon, the the store. Many wares are housed in an- of the Lindale Economic Development store bustles with shoppers, includ- tique suitcases and trunks or rustic ar- Corp. “Some of them stay in our hotels, ing young couples, families with small moires, some painted in shades of pink and some of them eat in our restaurants. children, girlfriend groups, and one and turquoise. Vintage lace-up boots The store has really perked up traffic and sizable bachelorette party (identifiable prop up the menu signage in the store’s it’s been a good catalyst for new business.” by matching T-shirts and pink hair ac- coffee shop, which is located in a back Housed in a 4,000-square-foot brick cessories). I overhear buzz about the room and keeps shoppers caffeinated building adorned by a pink-and-white- previous night’s show. with espresso, cappuccinos, and lattes. striped awning, The Pink Pistol is an ex- Many of Lambert’s framed platinum plosion of sparkly, quirky fun. Display ta- Find More Online and gold records, including best-sell- bles at every turn bear kitschy gifts and TH interview with Miranda Lambert at ing singles like “White Liar” and chart- topping albums like “Four the Record,” knickknacks, like pink chrome flasks, texashighways.com/detour. cotton candy-scented candles, tempo- hang along the pink-painted wall by a rary tattoos, and dangly silver revolver staircase that leads guests to a second earrings. Souvenir T-shirts and tank “I loved her haircut,” says one woman. story, which holds kids’ clothing, sale tops printed with the shop’s winged-re- “I hope they have that sparkly shirt items, and Lindale Eagles T-shirts from volver logo and the caption “for the wild she was wearing,” says another. the local high school. Guests often pose at heart” hang on the walls, along with Located below a pink chandelier in the for snapshots in front of the awards, as Polaroid snapshots of guests from far- middle of the store, a small bar with pink well as outside under the entrance sign. away places—a nod to lyrics from Lam- glittery stools offers customers a chance As we load up the car and head back bert’s song “Automatic,” which encour- to taste wines from Red 55 Winery, west to Fort Worth, I admire my Pink ages picture-taking, “the kind you gotta Lambert’s brand of wines named for her Pistol souvenirs, including a pink tank shake.” A quick tour of the store, com- first pick-up truck—a candy-apple-red ’55 top, a hot pink to-go cup for my coffee, prised of multiple rooms in a maze-like Chevy sidestep. Lambert’s parents, Rick and a pink candle in a mason jar. I’m layout, reveals fashionable finds like and Bev, manage the winery, which pro- not even a huge fan of the color pink, but embellished denim cut-off shorts, Az- duces and bottles the wine in Brownfield, I am a fan of Miranda. I guess there’s tec-print miniskirts, fringed handbags, a High Plains town near Lubbock. My something about The Pink Pistol that sequined clutches, leather cuff brace- pals and I sit down to participate in a tast- makes one want to emulate Lam- lets, guitar-pick necklaces, and cowboy ing of all seven varietals, including whites bert’s small town-loving, wild-at-heart boots of all colors. and reds named after Lambert songs and spirit—and her passion for pink. ★

24 texashighways.com | July 2015 photo: Kevin Stillman drive Texas Wild + Made in texas + SOuvenir + Texas ticket

Texas WilD Silver Wings From sewage to avian refuge at Mitchell Lake Audubon Center

text by Gene Fowler m

Egret Eyes Great egrets are a common sight at San Antonio’s Mitchell Lake Audubon Center.

photo: © Rolf Nussbaumer To order a print of this photograph, call 866/962-1191, or visit www.texashighwaysprints.com. September 2015 | texashighways.com 11 Texas Wild

ara Beesley, director of the Mitchell Lake Audubon to gaze at the surrounding xeriscaped Center in San Antonio, thought she might have fallen prey to some gardens and their frequent butterfly strange trick when she first started working at the center two years and hummingbird visitors, and to study ago and didn’t see any American white pelicans for a few weeks. the list of birds that have been spotted Catering to “After all,” she explains, “the pelican is our signature bird, and Mitchell Lake at the refuge. birders, the Mitchell Lake is one of the few places in North America where you Audubon Center “We create habitat through ‘wild- refuge has a can see them year-round.” is at 10750 Pleasanton scaping’ with drought-tolerant plants,” bird blind on Beesley’s first weeks were an anomaly, however, and her explo- Road, about 10 miles Beesley says, listing examples such as its “bird pond” ration of the refuge’s lake, mudflats, and shallow wetlands soon coincided with the south of downtown San native lantana, pink skullcap, and blue and clears brush Spresence of the white pelicans, characterized by large throat pouches and long beaks. Antonio. Hours are 8-4 mistflower. in certain areas And when Beesley gave me a tour of the 1,200-acre preserve this summer, we saw Tue-Sun. Entry costs Mitchell Lake Audubon Center of- to create views dozens of the broad-winged birds, as well as neotropic cormorants, black-bellied $5; $2 for children 6-16. fers about two miles of walking trails of the basins whistling ducks, scissor-tailed flycatchers, and dickcissels. Call 210/628-1639; through its 385 acres of upland habi- and polders. “We are right along the central flyway, so we are a perfect stopover as birds mi- mitchelllake. tat—thorny South Texas Brush Coun- grate through,” Beesley says. “We have a range of unique habitats so we attract all audubon.org. try with thickets of oak, mesquite, hui- types of birds—we have uplands, ponds, wetlands, and brushlands. We also get lots sache, and prickly pear. There are also of coastal birds. Birders come here from all over the world.” five-and-a-half miles of roads that vis- When you visit Mitchell Lake, stop first at the visitor center to register, pay the itors can drive or hike among the ref- $5 entry fee, and pick up a loaner pair of binoculars and a map. The center is in uge’s 215 acres of wetlands and ponds, the 1910 Leeper House, the former home of the McNay Art Museum’s first direct- and along the shore of the 600-acre or, John Leeper; the building was moved from the museum grounds to Mitchell lake. Catering to birders, the refuge has Lake in 2003. The home’s broad porches with overhead fans offer a relaxing place a bird blind on its “bird pond” and clears brush in certain areas to create views of the basins and polders. While there are plenty of birds in the upland habitat, the majority of the ac- tion is typically at the lake and the wet- lands. The center offers guided birding tours each week (normally on Sun- days). A tour this summer recorded 53 species, including a great blue heron, six black-bellied whistling ducks, and eight painted buntings. In the late summer, shorebirds like black-necked stilts, American avocets, sandpipers, herons, and egrets flock to the refuge’s wetlands; in the winter, ducks are the most common sight, including north- ern shovelers, blue-winged teals, and hooded mergansers. With its mission to connect people to nature through conservation and education focused on birds and bird habitat, the Mitchell Lake Audubon Center hosts some 4,000 school- children for camps and field trips each year. “Kids don’t spend as much time outside these days and have less opportunity to experience nature,” says Danielle Ormon, a spokeswoman for Audubon Texas. “When kids touch and feel nature, hold it up close, the experience sticks with them

12 texashighways.com | September 2015 photo: Michael Amador September 2015 | texashighways.com 13 Texas Wild Made in texas

and they in turn teach their parents.” large Gulf Coast toads. This fall, citizen la Espada Mission (about three miles The center also offers opportunities scientists will look for the endangered away), the missionaries probably re- for older children and adults to partici- Texas horned lizard. lied on the lake to water their livestock. pate in “citizen science” data collection Formed thousands of years ago Early maps identified the lake as La- projects, such as a recent Frog Watch. through natural drainage, Mitchell guna de los Patos (Lake of the Ducks), Participants memorized the sounds of Lake has always been a magnet for and it was a popular site for duck hunt- various frog calls and then identified migratory birds. Native Americans ing and bird watching in the 19th Cen- eight separate species in the preserve, likely camped at the site, and given the tury. The lake takes its name from Asa from small Blanchard’s cricket frogs to lake’s proximity to San Francisco de Mitchell, a veteran of the Battle of San Jacinto, who bought the lake and sur- rounding acreage in 1839.

Hoot & Harvest Festival 01 Diabolical Mysterious Weird The center hosts its annual Hoot & Harvest Festival on October 17 with a native plant sale, butterfly walks, nature displays, hayrides, and arts and crafts. The Last Chance Forever Bird of Prey Conservancy will be on hand with golden eagles, hawks, and owls.

In the early 20th Century, San Anto- nio enlarged the lake with a dam and began piping its sewage there, at first untreated sewage, and then after 1930, treated wastewater. While that may Lurking in sound unpleasant, landfills and sew- age treatment plants attract a diversity Orange, Texas of winged creatures and are often pop- ular with birders. Regardless, don’t let Dance-Hall Opens October 3, 2015 the site’s distant past dissuade you from Dude a visit today. The Texas Legislature de- Kevin Fowler on his favorite Texas dance halls creed that the lake no longer be used for wastewater treatment in 1972, and the text by John Morthland San Antonio City Council declared it a starkmuseum.org bird refuge in 1973. The National Audu- bon Society took over management of evin Fowler goes for a good Dance halls Toys, then fronted his own Southern- the site in 2004. love song as much as the next red- remain close to rock group Thunderfoot. But in 1998, Retired biologist Ruth Lofgren, 98, blooded country music singer-song- Fowler’s heart— he returned to the country music he’d worked with the League of Women writer, but you need only look at his so much so grown up with, which he plays with a Voters to help resurrect the lake from a song titles to understand the brand that he does rock edge. sewage swamp into a wildlife center— of country he likes best: “Beer, Bait an annual While Fowler is in high demand a transformation she calls a “miracle.” and Ammo,” “Loose, Loud and statewide tour, these days on the fair-and-festival cir- “It’s wonderful for people, especially Crazy,” “Girl in a Truck.” Fowler from Thanks- cuit, he developed his country career children, to have an opportunity to get has made his name in the contemporary sub-genre known giving weekend in the legendary dance halls of Central Based on the book acquainted with nature,” Lofgren says. as Texas Country with catchy, good-timin’ anthems that cel- through New and South Texas. Rural Texas towns Wicked Plants: e Weed that Killed Lincoln’s Mother and other Botanical Atrocities K “I just love seeing a thousand pelicans ebrate huntin’ and fishin’, country girls, and cold beer. once revolved around these halls, with by Author Amy Stewart. © 2009 Algonquin Press New York, NY. Year’s Eve, All Rights Reserved. swoop from one area of the wetlands to A native of Amarillo, Fowler studied guitar and songwrit- called “Deck their clapboard-and-corrugated-tin Stark Museum of Art is a program of the Nelda C. and H.J. Lutcher Stark Foundation. ©2015 All Rights Reserved. another. It provides such a soothing ex- ing on the West Coast before arriving in Austin in 1991. He the Dancehalls.” construction, friendly old-timers, Spar- perience in a person’s life.” ★ first played guitar in the popular hard-rock band Dangerous tan furnishings, and wooden dance

14 texashighways.com | September 2015 photo: Courtesy Laning Photography September 2015 | texashighways.com 15 Made in texas THE GARDEN OF EARTHLY DELIGHTS: Paintings by JAIME ARREDONDO of the coolest woodwork you’ve ever seen, and they’ve still got polka bands and country bands playing there regu- larly.” www.anhalthall.com. September 12 - Quihi Gun Club & Dance November 15, Hall, Quihi (est. 1890) “I’ve played all Main Gallery over the world, “I’ve never played this one, but I was and I’ve seen there for a friend’s wedding recently FREE no place on and it is great. It’s near Castroville, at the end of a little road that was still dirt the planet that Reception & until just a couple years ago,” Fowler has a dance- Artist Talk: says. “The road is lined with all these hall scene like September, 19 tall trees so it’s dark even in the day- we have here.” 5 p.m. time, and when you get back there the dance hall is this big, corrugated tin barn, way up off the ground on these six-foot cedar posts, because the hall stretches way out over the creek, and it floods there a lot. It’s run by a commit- tee, by members who put in the money and effort to keep it going for future gen- erations. They have two public dances Open 7 days a week • Free parking • 3333 N. MacArthur Blvd. Irving, TX 75062• 972-252-7558 • www.IrvingArtsCenter.com per month, and the rest of the time they Irvingarts Albert Dance Hall in Stonewall rent it out for special occasions. It’s just a great room; I’ve got a true soft spot for that place.” www.quihidancehall.com. We are Texan, We are Cowboy! floors that shine like military uniform tradition,” Fowler says. “You look at Albert Dance Hall, buttons on inspection day. Dance halls the photographs on the wall and every- Stonewall (est. 1922) Swiss Alp Dancehall, remain close to Fowler’s heart—so one’s played there: Hank Thompson, “The Easley family bought this about Swiss Alp (est. 1900) much so that he does an annual state- you name ’em; you feel like you’re part five years ago, and they did a great job “Oh, man, it is so rustic here, I just wide tour, from Thanksgiving weekend of country music royalty. They have restoring the dance hall without hurt- love the Swiss Alp, right there on High- through New Year’s Eve, called “Deck one of the best dance floors in the state, ing the feel of the place; the floor is in- way 77 near Schulenburg. It’s all old the Dancehalls,” during which he plays and they take good care of it.” www. credible. The general store is still there, barn wood and rusty tin, just a barn, re- as many of them as he can. (Dates for schroederdancehall.com. too, only now it’s more like an icehouse. ally,” Fowler says. “But the dance floor 2015 were pending at press time.) Every time we’ve been to Albert it’s al- is swirling, and the place has such a “All the historic dance halls offer the Old Coupland Inn ways been full, and there’ll be a lot of great feel; if you spill your beer in there same experience, and that’s the cool and Dancehall, Coupland people hanging around outside as well, nobody’s gonna complain, let’s put it Come honor thing about them; they’re a step back (est. 1992 as a dance hall; originally under these big old live oaks. They don’t that way. I figured out early on when our heritage at in time,” he says. “I’ve played all over built in 1904 as the town drugstore) do as many public dances as they used I started playing the dance halls, you Celebrate Bandera the world, and I’ve seen no place on the “This one has the restaurant and the to, but they do a lot of weddings there just have to play music that’ll keep ’em September 4-6 planet that has a dance-hall scene like old hotel,” Fowler says. “You go into now.” www.alberttexas.com. drinking beer and dancing, and if you we have here.” that hotel and it’s really cool; every- do that everything’ll be fine.” www. Asked to give the lowdown on his thing there is still specific to the old days. Anhalt Hall, Spring Branch swissalptexas.com. ★ favorites, Fowler invited me to Rustic People come to dance and drink beer, in Comal County (est. 1887) Ranch, his spread outside of Wimberley but it’s multi-generational, everyone “You talk about history and nos- Upcoming Shows where he’s collected and restored sev- from the kids to grandma and grandpa, talgia, this one started out in the 19th For more info on Kevin Fowler, eral historic buildings. So, we conducted eight to 80. Coupland was probably Century as a meeting hall, and it’s still check out www.kevinfowler.com. the interview in … Fowler’s dance hall. the first place I saw little kids sleep- going strong as the community center,” Upcoming Fowler concerts ing on the tables and benches when it Fowler says. “The dance floor is dark include the Colorado County Fair Schroeder Hall, got late, but as I learned, it’s like that oak and it’s huge. No tables around the on September 26, the Texas Rice photo by Diann Bayes Goliad County (est. 1890) at all the dance halls.” www.coupland dance floor, just benches. They’ve got Festival on September 30, and the BanderaCowboyCapital.com 830-796-3045 “This place just reeks of history and dancehall.com. high ceilings, arched beams, and some State Fair of Texas on October 10.

16 texashighways.com | September 2015 photo: Courtesy Freddy Martinez September 2015 | texashighways.com 17 souvenir

her grandfather D.E. Sims purchased Ingrid’s Custom thaler bought this shop in 1981 from in 1870, primarily because he wanted to Hand-Woven Rugs his cousins Ingrid and Leo Haas, who preserve the rock art. She explains that is at 141 S. Roberts (US 83) in started the operation in 1979. Schooled the paintings span thousands of years Paint Rock. With advance notice, in Austria as a chef, Schoffthaler came and multiple native peoples. While we you can tour the factory and to the United States in 1969 to learn can (and do) speculate what they mean, watch employees spin, weave, and English. He opened a restaurant in New no one knows for sure. Then we hop in finish items. Call 325/732-4370. York, but quickly discovered that that her car and drive down to the bluff. To arrange to see the rock art, career wasn’t compatible with raising About 70 feet high and several hun- call 325/732-4376. his daughter. So, when the shop became dred yards long, this bluff of limestone available, he decided to move to Texas. boulders and cacti contains more than Ingrid and Leo stayed on for two 1,000 images. I easily pick out geometric overhangs of rock, remain clear. I want years, teaching their cousin the busi- designs, along with images that look like to hug Campbell and thank her and her ness. At the time, the shop ran five canoes, stick figures, and hands, some of family for keeping them safe. looms; since then, a local craftsman has the latter reminding me of the palm out- Back at the visitor center, I admire a built eight more. lines my children once brought home rug on the floor and am thrilled when At first, weavers worked exclusive- from school. With Campbell’s guidance, Campbell says it was made right here ly with sheep wool and goat mohair, I also see an hourglass, what looks like in Paint Rock. The shop, she tells me, most of it from nearby ranches. Con- an old Spanish-style church, a stalk of is catty-corner from Paint Rock’s circa- cho County once ranked as the na- corn, a bison, a roadrunner, and a bird 1886 courthouse, a two-story stone struc- tion’s leading sheep-producing county, that could be a turkey. Tally marks line ture topped with a red roof. Sure enough, and many people in the area still raise one surface, as if ancient visitors kept when I drive back to the town, I notice sheep for wool and Angora goats for track of time spent here. Some paint- the sign: “Ingrid’s Hand-Woven Rugs.” hair. But, Schoffthaler says, those fi- ings have faded, but others, protected by Native Austrian Reinhard Schoff- bers have a soft texture, and coarse

Textile Style woolen accessories Handwoven in Paint Rock text by Melissa Gaskill

small bell tinkles as I push Concho bluff near the Concho River. Early artists open the door and enter the store, County once created pictographs by applying miner- worn wooden floorboards creaking ranked as als and dyes to rock, most commonly beneath my feet. A tall ceiling soars the nation’s with their fingers but sometimes with overhead, and dust motes dance in leading sheep- brushes made of animal or plant fiber. the light streaming through large producing Tours of these paintings, located on windows as I walk between stacks county, and the private Campbell Ranch, are one of of rugs. I flip through the variety of many people the area’s main tourist attractions and patterns and muted shades, then run my fingers across several in the area still the reason for my visit. At my appointed Athick, colorful saddle blankets draped across a rack. On a shelf raise sheep time (reservations are a must), Kay nearby, a pile of brightly striped placemats ($15-$30) catches for wool and Campbell meets me in the visitor cen- my eye, and I know I’ve found my Paint Rock souvenir. Angora goats ter, where stacks of photos and drawings This tiny town, about 30 miles due east of San Angelo, owes for hair. and chunks of rock cover several tables. its name to an impressive collection of rock pictographs on a Campbell grew up on this land, which

18 texashighways.com | September 2015 photo: Brandon Jakobeit September 2015 | texashighways.com 19 souvenir texas Ticket

fiber makes better rugs. He began or- favorite. “It’s a great fiber,” he says. “A fiber to produce a six-by-nine-foot rug. dering coarse fiber from New Zealand, pair of alpaca socks is very warm and These days, the shop makes the rugs, and then about 10 years ago, he received causes no allergies because there is no and its 1,600 or so fiber suppliers sell a call from Dan and Dale Goodyear, lanolin. For rugs, we use a coarser grade them. (Schoffthaler is happy to share con- who raise alpacas in Pennsylvania. that is very sturdy.” For saddle blankets, tact numbers.) Current orders will keep “They heard about us from the Texas the weavers use slightly thicker wool, the Paint Rock looms busy for the next Tech University International Tex- which makes the pads very durable, three to four months. As a result, Schoff- tile Center, where we used to have our and very popular. “People always reor- thaler does no marketing and keeps only fiber dyed,” Schoffthaler recalls. The der our horse blankets,” he says. a small inventory at the store, which Goodyears sent a few pounds of their opens Monday through Friday from alpaca fiber to the Paint Rock shop, The shop works with fiber from 8 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. While you can still and the weavers succeeded in working across the country and Canada, walk in and order a custom rug, he says, with it and sent the resulting textiles including about 30 suppliers you’ll have to wait awhile to receive it. back to the Goodyears to sell. “Then it in Texas, creating rugs and The looms can produce a rug up to snowballed, because people raising al- other items from goat, alpaca, 12 feet wide and any length. Saddle pacas all know each other and they llama, yak, and even bison hair. blankets and placemats are created in spread the word,” says Schoffthaler. the same manner as the rugs and on As a result, the shop now works with the same looms, only on a smaller scale, fiber from across the country and Can- Fiber arrives at the shop in raw of course. Made for Listening ada, including about 30 suppliers in form—looking as if it just came off of Back home, my colorful striped place- Singer-songwriters Susan Texas, creating rugs and other items its original owner, albeit perhaps a bit mats brighten my table, reminding me Gibson (playing the guitar) from goat, alpaca, llama, yak, and even cleaner—and is corded and spun around at every meal of a quiet Texas town, a and Elizabeth Wills mesmerize bison hair. a jute core. That makes it durable and re- cliff covered in mysterious images, and the crowd at The Bugle Boy ★ Alpaca remains Schoffthaler’s versible. It takes roughly 20 pounds of a family dedicated to preserving them. at an intimate July concert. Now Hear This! A former Army barrack provides Sweet Harmony in La Grange

text by Roger Wood

n a modest space that doubles as an approximately 110 shows annually office and the green room for performers, singer- since 2005. “We like real, soulful, hon- songwriter Sara Hickman relaxes momentarily est music performed by the person who and reflects. “There’s a lot of love invested in this composed it,” says Lane Gosnay, the place, and it makes what I do exquisite,” she says. “The connection founder and executive director. “We As an acclaimed recording and touring artist, this that this envi- value that form of expression, that art.” 2010-2011 “Official State Musician of Texas” has ronment allows, Though not located in a big city, The played prominent concert halls nationwide. Yet between the Bugle Boy attracts big talent—thanks here, minutes before gracing the little stage beyond the door, artist and the to that reverence for song. Most of those Hickman professes high praise for The Bugle Boy, an acousti- audience, is so are Texas-based artists, such as Hick- I visceral and cally pristine listening room in La Grange. so important.” man, Joe Ely, Ruthie Foster, Marcia “There’s this camaraderie among all the folks here,” she Ball, Ray Wylie Hubbard, Shinyribs, explains. “You’re in this old wooden building, and the sound and many others. But the booking also is so beautiful, and the people are attuned, and it’s all about regularly includes luminaries from be- the music. Being in this place makes me happy that I chose yond the Lone Star State, such as Janis to be a songwriter.” Ian, A.J. Croce, and Greg Trooper. Specializing in the eclectic blend of musical styles com- Staffed primarily with volunteers, monly dubbed “Americana,” this 80-seat venue has hosted this grassroots enterprise opens for only

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texas Ticket

Retreat.Always a Great Time in Relax. Kerrville! The - Texas Hill Country Arts - Destination Go to KerrvilleTXArts.com for more information on the Bugle Boy Kerrville’s amazing visual and performing arts. is at 1051 N. Jefferson (TX 77) in La Grange. “Epic Proportions” For information about Sept. 4-9 • symphonyofthehills.org the listening room, Kerrville Fall Music Festival the Soldier Songs Sept. 4-9 • kerrvillefolkfestival.org and Voices program, Marty Stuart Swan Songs, the Sept. 11 • playhouse2000 Talent Trust scholarship, Museum of Western Art community outreach Exhibition Show and Sale programs, and up- Sept. 19 • museumofwesternart.com coming concerts, call 979/968-9944; www.thebugleboy.org.

KerrvilleTexasCVB.com three hours per event, usually on Fri- prevails among staffers and support- songwriting and guitar-playing work- 800-221-7958 days and Saturdays, with concerts end- ers at this haven for songwriters. “The shops that promote musical expression Sept 25 - Oct 18 ing at 10 p.m. Although beer and wine (as connection that this environment al- as therapy. Another effort is Music and well as soft drinks and snacks) are sold lows, between the artist and the audi- Memory, which, Gosnay explains, “cre- Dallas before shows and during intermissions, ence, is so visceral and so important,” ates personalized playlists on iPods pro- The Bugle Boy de-emphasizes alcohol says Gosnay. She credits the commit- vided to nursing home residents, espe- consumption as a business model. It ment of local aficionados who have em- cially people with dementia and those also expects audience members to be re- braced and nourished her original vi- who are withdrawn.” There are also spectfully unobtrusive during songs: no sion. “People started showing up and separate programs to assist selected Texas October 21-24 combo packs chatter, disruptions with food or drink, volunteering. They adopted this place artists with financing recording pro- Providing scholarships and as or cell phones. Indeed, a large sign near as something that mattered to them.” ductions, to present music education valuable experience to hard low the main entrance advises, “QUIET According to Heather Eilers, the com- sessions in public schools, and to ar- working area youth. as PLEASE. LOOSE LIPS SINK SHIPS!” munity outreach and volunteer coordi- chive documentary material at the Bris- 69 That allusion to wartime history nator, “It sort of happens organically coe Center for American History at the fits the 70-plus-year-old building that with folks that are fans of this music. University of Texas. houses The Bugle Boy, which takes its They come to shows, observe how we Meanwhile, now seated on the stage, name from a 1941 hit song. The simple operate, and ask how to volunteer.” Sara Hickman cradles an acoustic gui- It’s Big. rectangular structure originated as a That same spirit extends to multiple tar and sings, accompanied only by Kris- Texas Big. U.S. Army barrack at Camp Swift, near community service programs main- ten DeWitt on harmony vocals. On the Bastrop, during World War II. Then in tained by The Bugle Boy Foundation, final chorus, the two women lean toward This year the party is even 1948 the Sons of Hermann Lodge pur- a nonprofit organization since 2008. each other, their voices blending into a BIGGER! With more than 100 chased it and moved it to the current The president emeritus of the board, breathtaking moment of sonic beauty. daily shows, concerts, family- location to be a meeting hall. Fifty- David Vogel, notes, “Music is the draw On the rear wall to their right, a friendly activities and more six years later it changed hands again that gets people here, but it’s about more small placard with hand-drawn letter- included in admission, you can’t miss this classic Texas tradition. when Gosnay and friends brought The than just the concerts. We have really ing urges, “Believe in the Magic.” That Bugle Boy into being. While those three gotten involved in helping people, and simple imperative perhaps succinctly Plan your trip at incarnations might seem unrelated, we’ve become a community asset.” explains the phenomenon that is The BIGTEX.COM this timeworn edifice has consistently One example is the Soldier Songs and Bugle Boy, a place where believers— State Fair of Texas combo packs only available united individuals sharing common Voices program, exclusively for U.S. producers, performers, and patrons— 903.753.3281 • VisitLongviewTexas.com online at bigtex.com from 8/1/15 to 10/10/15. bonds—military, fraternal, or musical. Armed Services veterans. Two Sun- nurture their faith in the power of com- 410 N. Center Street • Longview, Texas 75601 Today a friendly sense of mission days per month it utilizes the venue for munion through music. ★

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