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The Scottish Itinerary of Mary Queen of Scots, 1542-8 and 1561-8

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The Scottish Itinerary of Mary Queen of Scots, 1542-8 and 1561-8 Proc Soc Antiq Scot, 117 (1987), 219-231, fiche 1; C1-D6 e ScottisTh h itinerar f Maro y y Quee f Scotso n , 1542-8 and 1561-8 Edwar FurgoldM * ABSTRACT The journeys of Mary Queen of Scots through her kingdom are analysed for information on methods of transport, types buildingof reasonsstayedher impacthosts. travelin, her her for on and From the reign of Mary Queen of Scots writers have been interested in that unfortunate queen's movements through her kingdom. Attempts to produce an accurate itinerary of the queen may be said to commence with the contemporary English ambassadorial despatches (CSP Scot, I & II, passim). The royal household accounts (E/33/6-9) also recorded information on the routes of Mary's travels, but they were not utilized for that purpose for two and a half centuries. Then in the second decad 19te th hf ecenturo y George Chalmers (1822,1, passim) dre biographs then whi o r me fo th f yo queen. Unfortunately, D Hay Fleming (1897,515-43), who produced the only full itinerary for Mary, was unaware of them. His oversight has been rectified for the travels in Aberdeenshire, 1562 (Buchanan 1958,20-1), Argyll (Small 1928,13-19), and the south-west in 1563 (Maxwell 1920,1-13). However, the numerous biographers of Mary have never attempted a revision of Fleming. For- tunately, on the eve of the quadracentenary of Mary's death Historic Buildings and Monuments, Scottish Development Department appointe investigato t e dm mattee booea th r krfo (Breeze 1987) and a series of exhibitions linking Mary to the monuments in care of the Secretary of State for Scotland. queee Th n undertoo journeyr khe numerour sfo s reasons varieta y b , meansf yo stayed an , n di r visiteo d diverse type f accommodationso mose Th . t intriguin r journeyhe r biographerf go he o st s were those connected with political events. In addition the queen traversed Scotland in order to appea t stata r e occasions, hold judicial courts, hunt, rest fro formae mth l atmospher Holyroodf eo - house, attend social events seed an husbandk,a queee .Th n also wen progressesn to , tha formas i t l tours of the country similar to those of Elizabeth I of England. Visits by the queen also appear to have influence hostr generalla dhe n si y favourable manner. Before proceedin examino gt e those topicsa wor necessars di y concernin typee gth transporf so t Mary use Scotlandn di . transportatioe Th n structur 16td Scotlann ei hmi e centurth n dunderdevelopei s ywa t onldno y by present standards alst ricthose y ,bu o b th h f Frenceo h kingdom Mary kne wellw o absence s .Th f eo adequate roads prevente commoy f coachesan o d e us n . Mar f Guiseyo e queen'th , s mother, introduce Scotlandn i firse e dth on t . Howevert inspirno nobilitd e edi th t i , imitatyo t e her 156n I . 2 Queen Mary had a coach repaired at St Andrews (TA, XI, 154). Whether this was the same coach her e NavTh y Museum, Washington Navy Yard, Washingto 20374C nA D US , 220 SOCIETY OF ANTIQUARIES OF SCOTLAND, 1987 mother use unknowns di t state i queee s i th f r di n travelleNo . metropolitae th o dt froe nse m North Queensferry by coach, or if she merely utilized it around the St Andrews area. There is no further mentio coace th f nho durin reigne gth , whic suggesy hma eithes t tha liablo wa t rtto i breakdowo et r no very uncomfortable Decemben I . r 1565 Mary reached Linlithgow from Edinburg horsa y hb e litter (Fraser 1969,240) Januarn .I y 1567 Darnle carrie s froe ywa m on n dGlasgoi capitae th wo t l (ibid, 285- . However6) , this conveyanc unsuitabls ewa lengthe th r efo y treks queene madth y eb . Significantly, Mary used it when she was pregnant, while Darnley travelled by that means when he was ill. The quee least occasioe a n ton no recoursd nmosha e th to e t commo n mean transporf so t- foot . This swa necessar alloo yt w Mar slio yt p throug Confederate forcee hth th f o s e Lords besieging Borthwick Castl thacoulo e s tsh d rejoi thirr nhe d husband, James Hepburn, fourth ear Bothwellf lo mose .Th t common method of land travel used by Mary was horseback. She maintained a stable of high quality, which included horses' brought from France in 1561. The queen enjoyed riding and was an accomplished horsewomen (ibid, 178) severaOn . l occasion madsshe e memorable ride greasof t length and endurance. The most famous ones were the trip between Jedburgh and Hermitage Castle, anflighte dth s from Loehleve Langsided nan . Fro r itinerarmhe y (fiche 1:C3 t appear)i s thae th t queen regularly took journeys of 30 miles or so. On her progresses Mary moved at a more leisurely pace wit objective hth movinf eo g fro hose manothero on t Marf I . lacked y ha lov e dridinf th e o r go the ability to do it well, it is probable her journeys would have been much limited in their scope. While land transpor e mosth s t obviouwa t s mean f travelo s e geographth , e countrth f yo y necessitated the use of waterborne means. In travelling to France in 1548 and back to Scotland in 1561 the queen sailed in ships of the French royal navy. In Scotland her most common excursions by water were trips across the Firth of Forth by the 'Queen's ferry'. In 1562 Mary crossed the Spey at Boharm by ferry addition I . e firthse saileth n sh summen n I .do r 1563 durin e Argylgth south-wesd an l t progress Mary went acros Firte s th Clyd f ho associated ean d loch shipy sb . Afte birte th rPrincf ho e James in June 1566 she travelled from Newhaven to Alloa by some type of vessel. With the exception of Mary's last Scottis voyaga hse e informatio type boath f eo n shir no to p utilize lackings di than O . t instance, when she crossed the Solway Firth from Abbeyburnmouth to Workington, the queen and her minute court sailed in a fishing boat. Sea passages may have disagreed with Mary, because she seems not to have had any plans to recreate her father's circumnavigation of 1540. Although queen of her country Mary enjoyed no visible advantage over her nobles or gentry (and probably wealthy farmers , r transportoo)he n i , t capacity wits A . h the r travelmhe s relied upo horse nsmalth d ean l shipping. j Just as the queen utilized various methods of transport she also visited different types of buildings. These ranged'in ownership from royal to ecclesiastical to landholder to burgess, and in kind from palaces to monasteries to castles to townhouses. Mary stopped at these places most commonly for over-night accommodation, but sometimes only halted for a meal. The queen went to 15 of the royal properties thef o mo (RedcastlTw . Gartld ean y Castles), pertaine noblo dt e estates whicd hha fallen to the crown. Of the remainder, eight served as her principal royal residences. They ranged in type fro renaissance mth e palace Holyroodhousef so , Falklan Stirlind dan starklo gt y medieval piles. Linlithgo modernizea s wwa d medieval palace remodelle lavisa n do h scale. Dunbar Castle, while scarcel bese th tf yexampleo palatiale on s artillerf s,wa o y fortificatio Scotlandn ni . Edinburgh Castle represented a transition from the medieval to the new classical style. Dumbarton Castle (illus 1) and Dunfermline Abbey might be regarded as the most medieval of the royal buildings in which Mary stayed with any frequency. The castles at Carrick, Dunoon, Inverness, Lochmaben and Peebles were likewise medieva naturen i l . Nevertheless, despite royal ownership their prime users were th e crown's lieutenants. Mary took advantage of the traditions of clerical hospitality and the crown's close relations with FURGOL: SCOTTISH ITINERARY OF MARY QUEEN OF SCOTS 221 CSv/r drcts idRITjINNOUUNENSlS alt Oriente- . y/ie, Qkosnect f yo Castlej f <-7>mfBHJTTOifo j ifrom ir Scut. y <. .5.. ILLUS 1 17th-century view of Dumbarton Castle from the east the Kirk in selecting accommodation. The queen may have been a guest at as many as 22 ecclesiastical properties. These included bishop' Aberdeend s palaceOl n i s a s , urban abbeys like Ayr, rural monasterie t Beaulya s sa , Coupar-Angus, Glenluc Dundrennad ean nmedievad (illuan , s2) l castles suc s Grangha Spynied ean . Mar havy yma e also staye t otheda r ecclesiastical establishmentn i s burghs whicf o , h Kelso Bishop'e Abbeth d yan s Palac t Dunblanea examplese ear . ILLU S2 Propertie Churche th f so . Ruin f Dundrennaso n Abbey: churc cloisted han r fro south-wese mth t 222 SOCIETY OF ANTIQUARIES OF SCOTLAND, 1987 ILLUS 3 South elevation of Huntingtower Castle, former home of the Lords of Ruthven The queen also utilized the dwellings of her nobles, visiting 34 of them (belonging to 25 peers), throughou realme th tcastlee Th . Hermitagef so , Huntingtower (Ruthven) (illu , Glamiss3) , Drum- mond, Hailes, Crichto Campbeld nan l were largely medieval dwellings. However, Balvenie Castle, despit stylw locations ene it (illue wina th d n sgi ha , 4) . Craignethan Castl militara s ewa y dwelling heavily influenced by artillery architecture. The most grandiose noble dwelling - Huntly Castle - was never seen by Mary.
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