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Shining Showcase Bring Your Special Glassware, China Figures, Or Other Prized Collectibles out of the Closet and Into the Light

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Shining Showcase Bring Your Special Glassware, China Figures, Or Other Prized Collectibles out of the Closet and Into the Light DOWNLOADABLE ONLINE WOODWORKING PLANS ® http://www.woodmagazine.com Shining Showcase Bring your special glassware, china figures, or other prized collectibles out of the closet and into the light. This easy-to-build project showcases their beauty and your craftsmanship. Here’s a visually high- impact piece of furniture that you can build for only a moderate investment of time and materials. Its three glass-insert shelves let light from a concealed halogen fixture stream from top to bottom. To discover how to beef up frame corners on this project and others, see the mitered half-lap joinery article on page 9. This joint hides the frames’ exposed end grain within the project’s legs. DP-00272 ©Copyright Meredith Corporation 2003 Page 1 of 13 1 LEG (Right rear shown) 1a LEG DETAIL (Top view shown) fi" notch fi" deep (right rear leg only) fi" grooves 2‹" Outside faces B ‹" deep in right rear leg (Light area) only Center of 12" 1fi" ¤" #20 #20 biscuit slot biscuit ‡" fi" fi" A 1‹" 1fi" 1" C fi" notch fi" deep in top and ‹" hole bottom of right rear leg only ›" deep 7" ‡" 1" ‹" holes ›" deep 1b LEG TAPER DETAIL 7" 54" A 1fi" fi" to center 1fi" of biscuit slot A 2" Center of #20 biscuit slot fi" to center of biscuit slot 1‹" 4fi" fi" notch fi" deep (right rear leg only) Page 2 of 13 TM Laminate four legs 1 Cut eight ‡×1fl×55" blanks for A laminating the legs (A). To form a channel to conceal the light fixture’s cord, install a dado blade in your tablesaw, and plow a centered fi" groove ‹" deep in two of the pieces, where shown on Drawing 1a. 2 Glue and clamp four pairs of laminations, keeping the ends and edges flush. The grooved pair Fence forms the right rear leg. Remove Hole centers any excess glue, and joint „" off marked on one edge of each lamination. masking tape Plane the opposite edges to form four 1fi×1fi" legs. Trim the legs to the length listed in the Materials List. 3 Mark the tops of the legs with their final orientations. Indicate the face to be drilled for shelf supports. Position the leg with Stopblock the centered cord channel at the right rear, where shown on Drawing 2. Referring to Drawing 1, lay out the shelf- Mark the right-rear leg shelf-support hole centers on support hole centers on the right masking tape. Align each mark with the bit, and position a rear leg. stopblock. Drill all four legs at each stopblock position. 4 To drill the legs’ shelf-support holes, chuck a ‹" bit in your drill press. Attach a 5'-long fence ‡" 7 Mark the bottom tapers on tabletop fasteners in the side caps back from the bit’s center, with each leg’s two inside faces, where (E), where shown on Drawing 2. about 1' of the fence extending to shown on Drawing 1b. Bandsaw the right of the bit. Drill the ›"- and sand to the lines. To ensure Note: Before cutting the grooves, deep holes, as shown in Photo A. uniform tapers, see the Shop Tip check the offset of your tabletop 5 Adjust your biscuit joiner’s on page 4. Sand the legs to 220 fasteners. It may be different from the fence to center a slot fi" from the grit. Á" dimension shown on the drawing. legs’ outside faces, and cut slots for #20 biscuits, where dimensioned Form the rails and caps 5 Finish-sand the rails and caps. on Drawing 1. 1 Cut the rails (B, D) and caps Mark the locations of the top 6 To provide electric cord (C, E) to size. To ensure that the edges of the rails (B, D) on the access to the hole in the right rear rails and caps are identical legs (A), where shown on leg, make a V-block from 2×4 lengths, use a stopblock clamped Drawing 2. Glue, biscuit, and scrap. With a fi" straight bit in to an auxiliary miter-gauge clamp the front and back rails (B) your table-mounted router, and a extension. between the front and back legs. stopblock clamped to the fence, 2 Adjust your biscuit joiner to Then join the front and back form a fi"-long notch in the leg’s center a slot in the thickness of leg/rail assemblies (A/B) together top and bottom inside corners, the rails. Then plunge slots for by gluing and clamping the side where shown on Drawings 1 #20 biscuits in the rail ends, rails (D) in place. Glue and clamp and 1a and as shown in Photo B. centered in their width. the rail caps (C, E) to the rails. Cut the notches in steps, first 3 Using a fairing stick, draw arcs The caps’ front edges are flush positioning the bit to cut ¤" into on the rails (B, D), where shown with the legs’ outside faces. the leg’s corner, and then raising on Drawing 2. Saw and sand Finally, ease the corners of the the bit in ¤" increments until the them to shape. completed assembly with a notches are complete. 4 Cut ¤" grooves ‹" deep for the sanding block. Page 3 of 13 TM Stopblock B V-block With the right rear leg cradled in a V-block, rout the top and bottom fi"-long notches in progressive ¤" increments. Clamp a stopblock to the fence to control the depth. SHOP TIP Sand perfect leg tapers quickly with a simple scrapwood jig To sand uniform tapers on all four legs (A), tack together the scrapwood jig shown in the drawing, below. Leave the nailheads protruding so you can easily disassemble the jig and return the parts to your scrap bin. Clamp the jig to your disc- or belt-sander table ¤" from the face of the sanding disc. Slide each leg along the fence, as shown in the photo, right, until its end contacts the stop. ‡ x 6 x 24" Sanding disc plywood base ¤" 1¤" 2Œ" ‡ x 2 x 16" fence ‡ x 2 x 6" stop Page 4 of 13 TM 2 EXPLODED VIEW 22‹" 18‹" F ›" chamfer #8 x fi" Halogen light panhead screw fixture E Tabletop fasteners C ¤" groove ‹" deep Á" from top edge B D 1‹" ‡" D E #8 x fi" 1" panhead screw A C 13" B A 1" 17" ‹ x 10› x 17Á" glass 1fi" (3 needed) A I A H H I 54" ¤" chamfers G 20‹" ‹" shelf supports E Tabletop ‹" shelf fastener support FRONT D C B Light cord D E ¤" groove ‹" deep Á" from top edge C 3" 6" #20 biscuit B 3 BOTTOM 20‹" #20 biscuit 1‡" 1‡" 16‡" A 1‡" 12‡" G 16‹" A 1‡" ¤" chamfer along ¤" gaps between top and bottom edges leg A and bottom G Page 5 of 13 TM C D Grommet Back housing Disconnect the cord from the internal wiring by Grasp and squeeze the cord grommet with pliers removing the wire nuts. Mark the wires for to release the cord from the housing. Pull the cord proper reassembly. out of the housing, and remove the grommet. deep, centered on the lower face Fish the cord up through the right Add the top and bottom of each frame side (I), to accept rear leg, leaving about 20" 1 Edge-join oversize blanks for the shelf supports. extending from the bottom of the leg. the top (F) and bottom (G), and 3 Rout ˇ" chamfers along the 4 Clamp the top (F) and bottom then cut them to finished size. Cut outside lower edges of all the (G) in place, centered. Turn the the corner notches in frame parts. shelf upside down, position the 2 Rout ›" chamfers on the top’s 4 Glue and clamp the frames tabletop fasteners, drill pilot lower edges, and ¤" chamfers on together, making sure they are holes, and drive the screws. the bottom’s upper and lower square and flat. With the glue dry, 5 Replace the grommet on the edges, where shown on finish-sand the frames. cord, and reinstall it in the Drawings 2 and 3. Finish-sand housing. Drill pilot holes, and both parts. Finish and assemble screw the back housing to the top 1 Examine all the parts and (F), leaving ¤" between the Make three shelf frames assemblies, and resand any areas housing and the front cap (C). 1 Cut the frame fronts and backs that need it. If you wish, apply a Reconnect the wires, and (H) and frame sides (I) to the sizes stain, and let it dry. (We used ZAR assemble the light fixture. listed. Form the mitered half laps, no. 116 Cherry.) 6 Have ‹" glass cut to fit the where shown on Drawing 4. For 2 Apply the finish. (We brushed rabbeted openings in the frames. complete instructions on forming on two coats of satin For a finished look, we had pencil these joints, see page 9. polyurethane, sanding between edges ground on our glass inserts. 2 With the mitered half laps coats with 220-grit sandpaper.) Insert the shelf supports, and formed, install a dado blade in 3 Remove the light fixture’s back install the shelves. ¿ your tablesaw, and cut the ‹" housing, and disconnect its 7fi'- rabbets ‰" deep on parts H and I, long cord, as shown in Photo C. Written by Jan Svec with Chuck Hedlund where shown on Drawings 4 Then remove the cord from the Project design: Jeff Mertz and 4a. Then cut a ›" groove ¤" housing, as shown in Photo D. Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine Page 6 of 13 TM 4 SHELF FRAME 20" Mitered 1fi" H half laps ‹" rabbets Mitered ‰" deep half laps I 1fi" H ‡" ›" groove ¤" deep, centered Mitered half laps 12Í" I ›" groove ¤" deep, centered ˇ" chamfer 4a FRAME DETAIL H I ‹" rabbet ‰" deep ˇ" chamfer ›" groove ¤" deep, centered, on part I 1fi" Page 7 of 13 TM *Parts initially cut oversize.
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