Sparkling stories While , Bulgari, Harry Winston, Graff, Buccellati and Van Cleef & Arpels thrive on rich and colourful histories, each must stay relevant to ensure long and illustrious legacies live on. journalist Rachael Taylor reports

is not just about whose contracts explicitly stated Left: Cartier Magicien Magie Winston in 1949. After taking it aesthetic. The history he would only wear his Cartier Blanche necklace Above: Harry on tour as part of his philanthropic A locked in a stone, lain Tank watch on set; and a room Winston diamond rings Below: travelling gemstone exhibition undisturbed for millions of years emblazoned in Elizabeth Taylor Cartier New York Below right: The Court of Jewels to raise – while chaos and seismic change photographs flaunting multiple Van Cleef & Arpels Colombe funds for local charities, Winston erupts on the surface – lends it a Cartier purchases. Mysterieuse brooch donated this historic gem to The cool magic. And exactly the same Also celebrated, is Cartier’s Smithsonian – simply posting it allure is mastered by the world’s design prowess. Its famous over the years, he acquired some to the museum in the mail. most famous jewellery brands. Panthère motif is honoured in of the world’s most spectacular (harrywinston.com) Bernard Arnault, French lacquer, and one room exhibits the . His insurance company billionaire and chief executive of famous Romanov bracelet – by refused to insure the 726ct rough VAN CLEEF & ARPELS one of the world’s most exclusive iconic designer Jeanne Toussaint Jonker diamond, that he had Parisian jeweller Van Cleef & luxury conglomerate, LVMH, once – featuring a 197.8ct sapphire that cleaved into 12 separate stones Arpels was born out of a romance, said that “in the luxury business, once belonged to Tsarina Maria – the largest of which was a when Estelle Arpels, daughter of you have to build on heritage”. Feodorovna, mother of the last 125.35ct emerald cut. a gem dealer, married Alfred Cleef, Tsar of Russia. Then there was the Hope the son of a lapidiary and diamond CARTIER (cartier.com) Diamond, an extraordinary broker towards the end of the In New York, Cartier’s flagship 45.52ct deep that 19th century. Together, along store on is brimming HARRY WINSTON some believe carries a curse (it is with Van Cleef’s brothers, they with juicy narrative; the foremost The King of Diamonds, as Harry said to have been stolen from a would create a world of fantasy being how Pierre Cartier, grandson Winston is known, made his first sacred temple in Golconda, India). and intrigue to complement the to founder Louis-François gem deal at the age of 12. Looking After passing though the hands sweetest of fairytale moments. Cartier, acquired the building through a tray of junk, Winston of French and English royalty One of Van Cleef & Arpel’s in 1912. He fell in love with the spotted a 2ct emerald. He casually in the 17th and 18th centuries, most enduring motifs, first neo-Renaissance-style mansion, handed over 25¢ and sold it two it was bought in 1911 by introduced in the 1940s, are its which was, at the time, owned days later for $800 (in 1908). superstitious socialite Evelyn ballerinas and fairies, which can by financier Morton Plant. When Winston started his Walsh McLean, before being be found dancing on brooches. ➤ Plant’s wife, in turn, fell for a pricey eponymous brand in 1932 and bought on her death by Harry Cartier natural pearl necklace, a deal was struck to swap the jewel, plus $100, for the building. Today, the store is a lesson in Cartier history. Salons are named after famous clients: Maisie Plant; theAbove: Grace Scott Kelly has bridal won suite a series (after theof tournaments starlet who accepted and obtained a Cartier engagementthe World No.1 ring slot from last Prince year RainierBelow: ofBalancing Monaco in family 1955); life the masculinewith his career Gary Cooper will be watch a new hallchallenge that pays for homage Scott to the actor

24 Upward Curve January-March 2018 January-March 2018 Upward Curve 25 to emerge from the house is Serpenti, a coiling serpent motif that wraps around the arm, its bejewelled head opening to reveal a watch dial. Its newest offering, Festa, is just as playful – a celebratory collection filled with precious balloons, cupcakes, lollipops and ice creams. To enter into the real Italian feste spirit, Craftsmanship is also at the heart Left: Graff Eternal Twin these jewels are best viewed at of the brand’s heritage and in earrings Right: Bulgari’s Bulgari’s Milan flagship, which 1933, its setters invented the necklace from the Festa was painstakingly restored in Mystery setting, which allows collection celebrates the olive 2014 to mark the brand’s 130th gems to be secured in gold rails so harvest Below: The prestigious anniversary. The marble temple that no metal is visible from above. Milan Buccellati flagship store includes a reinstated secret One of Van Cleef & Arpels’ entrance for VIPs, which has been more wearable icons is the closed for decades – but once Alhambra collection, which BULGARI ushered in Elizabeth Taylor & Co. celebrates its 50th anniversary Since 1884, Italian jeweller Bulgari (bulgari.com) this year, with precious cuts of has been carving out a colourful gems like mother-of-pearl or onyx history for itself. Aside from the BUCCELLATI in the shape of four-leaf clovers, famous chromatic jewels, set Italians are famed for their skill designed to bring luck. the world-famous Central Saint with trademark smooth, glossy with gold, and Buccellati has For something with even Martins art school and setting up cabochon gemstones, the brand is been highlighting the best of its more history, make an his own business. the diva of fine jewellery: playful, country’s heritage since 1919, appointment to view the Heritage His diamond purchases are the flashy and extravagant. As such, when Mario Buccellati opened his Collection of jewels once owned stuff of legend, and have earned it has attracted synonymous first jewellery boutique on Largo by famous names, including him the moniker ‘King of Bling’. clientele over the years – including Santa Margherita in Milan. Current American socialites Brooke Astor The title was immortalised by a Elizabeth Taylor, Gina Lollobrigida, head of the family, Gianmaria and Barbara Hutton. Only five 1970 marketing campaign ‘Hair Ingrid Bergman and Anita Ekberg. Buccellati, describes techniques Van Cleef & Arpels stores in the & Jewel’ in which he decorated It also boasts relationships with used to create its textured gold world carry this collection, one a model’s hair with more than stars of today, dressing Alicia designs as “borrowed from five of which is the ION Orchard $1 million of gemstones. The Vikander, Bella Hadid and Naomi centuries of Italian art”. boutique in Singapore. iconic image was recreated Campbell for red carpet events. The Buccellati family archives (vancleefarpels.com) in 2013 to celebrate Graff’s Men too have fallen under are packed with creative gold 60th year in the industry – this the spell of Bulgari, including jewels, decorated with pearls, GRAFF time with $500 million of jewels. artist Andy Warhol who offered to diamonds and colourful gems. Another master of diamonds is The cool-headed Graff has exchange paintings for the brand’s The majority of the business was Laurence Graff of British diamond expanded his empire over the jewels. Nicola Bulgari refused – sold to a Chinese investor in 2016 house Graff. Though he is now years, and now has rare diamonds a moment he later described as – which led to the opening of its more at home courting royals and around the world in stores across “the worst deal of my life”. first store in Shanghai’s Plaza 66. bidding on the world’s most famous Asia, North America, Australia, The most famous symbol (buccellati.com) ■ diamonds – like the 1,109ct Lesedi Europe, South Africa and the La Rona (the world’s largest rough Middle East. The latest offering diamond bought for $53m in is on the Place Vendôme in Paris, September 2017) – his beginnings the spiritual heartland of haute were humble. joaillerie. The boutique is pure Graff masterminded his own Parisian style, with its interiors a rise from a tough working-class verdant blend of French limestone, background in East London, grey damier floors, floor-to-ceiling learning the jewellery trade as mirrors and pale-green gaufraged an apprentice in Hatton Garden, velvet walls. before studying at what is now (graffdiamonds.com)

January-March 2018 Upward Curve 27