THE HERALDI A Heritage Group Production.

Issue No. 18 Christmas 1990 Price £1.00 Death of a MRS UNA PRESTON Village by P.J Duffy

The recent closing down of Rath- the British postal authorities to mullen P.O has marked the end of speed up the delivery of mail to the an era, not alone for people living remote parts of rural . Later It is with a sense of deep saan s within the immediate area, but for on when Liberal Prime Minister and profound loss that we record many others residing in adjoining Henry Asquith introduced his the death of Mrs Una Preston, districts. Social Welfare Act, providing Old Carnarea, who passed away unex- This tiny village situated on the Age Pensions for persons over the pectedly but peacefully in her sleep periphery of Keash parish , and age of seventy years, the Post Office in the early hours of Saturday, close to a road junction leading to was the venue where this kind of November 10th. Culfadda, could once proudly boast welfare aid was sorted out, and If one were to single out one of having a thriving National school paid over to qualifying members of person above all others to whom where the vociferous sounds of the public. this paper owed its origin in 1985, children at play could be heard During the early years of the that person would have to be Una daily throughout the annual school- century the Post Office was located Preston. Its continued existence going term. Situated nearby, was at Ardrea, a short distance down since then is something of which the little grocer's shop where they the road from Rathmullen. During she was very proud. Her own pithy bought their knick-knacks, and those years the Postmaster was a and challenging contributions to their parents bought their gro- man named Andrew Curley. its columns were a feature of many ceries. Thomas 0 Dowd was appointed an issue, including this one. Across the road was the forge Postmaster in 1912. Incidentally, at Possessing a highly independent where the sound of the smith's the time he was a member of the and original mind with a great hammer echoed for miles around, Board of Guardians for the Boyle clarity of thought, and with a as it was deflected across the glid- Union, and had sometime previous- strong sense of purpose, Mrs Pre- ing waters of the Owenmore river. ly carried out a successful drainage ston was never one to be content What you found here was a setting scheme on the Owenmore river. with the prevailing accepted wis- which in many ways resembled that Although mostly a self educated dom on most topics. Above all else , in the classical poems of Goldsmith man, he carried out his duties with she prized the traditional Irish val- and Longfelfow, namely, "The Vil- exacting care up until his retirement ues of independence and self suffi- lage Schoolmaster" and the "Village in 1949. During the later years of his ciency and the steady erosion of Blacksmith" life he used to describe how the let- these brought about by today's The coming of the Post Office to ters and packets were once collect- increasing movement towards ever the area, was the result of a plan by ed at a junction on the mail coach Continued Page 2 Continued Page 2 bigger and more centralised con- road and taken to Rathmullen in dent that took place in the post glomerates was a constant source two sacks, tied together and slung office during this time of year in her of annoyance and despair to her. across a donkey's back. This same father's day, when an Inspector Her love of things Irish and method was also adopted by the walked in the doorway and found the Irish language lead to her postmen of the day when deliveries an amorous postman with his arms involvement with Conradh na were heavy especially at Christmas around a young lady, while the Gaeilge in her early years in time, but when conditions were busy postmaster was totting up his . In later years she was a normal the postman usually did his accounts behind the counter, totally member of Comhaltas Ceoltóirí rounds on foot. You can very well unaware that such an incident was Éireann (). Coming to imagine him looking like a figure taking place. Needless to say the live in Carnarea after her mar- from the bible, as he made his jour- red-faced postman got a dressing riage, she devoted herself to the ney up the narrow lanes, with his down and so did the postmaster for rearing of her family and as they donkey and sacks, and every now not having his door bolted during grew up she gradually came to be and then stopping at the tiny sorting out time. involved in local affairs. thatched dwelling-houses which Because of her unshakable dotted the countryside at the time. belief in Community identity and It is indeed a spectacle that would community self-help, she came to contrast sharply with today's be involved in very many activi- speedy methods of delivery. Of ties and organisations, often as a course it is the same onward march founder member. So she was asso- of progress that has swept away ciated with the development of a those little amenities that have Community Centre in the dis- meant so much to country people used Primary School building in and turned their villages into obso- Carnarea, with the Irish Small lete ghosts. Farmers' Association, the Wom- One of the first postmen to take en's Political Association, the deliveries from Rathmullen P. O. Widow's Association and was the late John Kilcawley, a Angling and Tourist Associa- Killavil man, who distributed the tions. She was involved from the mail in his own area, while the late start with the Ballymote and Dis- John Joe Curley and John Davey trict Community Council, and in covered the Keash and Culfadda Mrs Corcoran the early eighties was the prime areas. mover behind the setting up of Thomas 0 Dowd's daughter With the closure of the Post Ballymote's Heritage Group. Annie Josephine (Mrs Corcoran) Office the last remnant of active Within this Group she succeeded took over as postmistress when her community life in this tiny village in realising her ambition for a late father retired in 1949. She car- has now ground to a halt. The old local paper, The Corran Herald. ried out her duties in the same effi- schoolhouse is now alas, nothing Few people are blessed with cient manner as did her father. This more than a windowless spectre her ability to think originally continued on up until the post that constantly shudders in the Winter's gales. The little grocery about everyday things. Few peo- office finally closed on the 19th of store is gone too, and across the ple gave her commitment to get- May 1989. During the course of a conversa- road the crumbling ruin of the old ting up and getting on with tion I recently had with Mrs Corco- forge stands out as a sorrowful things in an effective and deter- ran she talked about the heavy reminder of days when farmers mined way. For these reasons the deliveries of parcels that had to be from the surrounding countryside Ballymote area is all the poorer handled in her father's time and came there to have their animals for her passing and the Heritage how at Christmas time the Post shod and their iron shaped. It was a Group and this paper have lost a Office floor used to be filled with familiar sight on a Summer's great source of encouragement packages that often reached to the evening to see the smith working and of ideas. roof. It consisted mostly of carcasses on a horse outside the door, his tool To her family and relatives we of dead fowl en route to relations kit standing beside him, as he ham- extend sincere sympathy. May abroad in foreign countries. She mered home nail after nail into the she rest in eternal peace. went on to describe a funny inci- hoof of a patient horse or donkey. Continued Page 3 ......

Those of us who remember it all Here as I take my solitary rounds might be forgiven for thinking that amid the tangled walks and B allymote Rathmullen today resembles the ruined grounds Una Preston setting in another of Goldsmith's And many a year elapsed, classics: returned to view, A service Centre, supplying the Where once the cottage stood, the needs of the farming areas around, "The Deserted Village" hawthorn grew has managed to retain its identity as Sweet Auburn, parent of the bliss- Remembrance wakes, with all its a neat western town but still needs ful hour busy train much development both on the Thy glades forlorn confess the Swells at my breast and turns the social and commercial side. tyrant's power past to pain If we talk of tourism it is neces- sary to look at what we have to offer tourists and also to consider J. N. nu ORIOE... – - • etthe Dmamr. what sort of tourist we are looking AIM or , r for. Some years ago tourist angling NLt7'Lrrrt.LisePife3, had a spell of success in the area but PpsT è FF1 interest waned, contacts were lost and now it looks as if a new start BUSINESS TRANSACTED AT THIS OFFICE. will have to be made but our rivers and lakes with their angling poten- Sale of Postage Stamps, Ac.; Registration tial can still be used as a tourist Acceptance of Inland, Foreign, A Colonial} Parcels - J attraction. Money Order and Savings Bank Business.} This ancient land with its Government Stock, Annuities. Insur- ces, and Llcences - - megalithic tombs, its historical and and Payment of Postal Orders pre-historic relics, and its natural • 12 r. ,on ,.m Han. H.„eam unspoiled beauty has attractions all Nearest Office from which Telegrams are forwarded its own but these need to be devel- Nearest Office from which Local Express oped and presented in such a way Letters and Parcels are delivered'—' that they will interest. A Festival of Jl ,L! business is suspended Lblrw... J 1e.m. arbmr.peee 4 Ballymote has been suggested as • DESPATCHES. DELIVERIES. omr..... ay. er ,wWe one way of drawing attention to mw r en^msr► r enywe,^i' r . - Pawe1ó1 rtpr the aces Hoer or Commencement Letter Des dared far what we have to offer. The areas of Despatch at aaapw mea archaeology, history, art and music

,Veek Lay, (L.eerm nud P::rwb) Week Dar Week Uer o.)r could do as a framework to build on. All are capable of imaginative Ge-r../ development in their presentation. a,..^t. Crafts directed at the luxury mar- Il-'=2 ket could be worth investigation. We have many good craft workers (Letters only) • Seeder in the area and it is quite possible "a' that some talented young people ^ 9 , ^ ^ ^ ^` . it4". could be found among the senior (aCanui) students in our second level schools. w tonw sew•af trvw.e.aeymre.wr.,a aereme.»rar/rww .r Mem^eeYµ Omer ^^I to N Ye e., eN r W anrar M ^ elrp omsn mrew W e,.e r Biala W Wee A plan of development for our The above is a copy of the Post Office window notice for Rathmullen Post Office rural areas is urgently needed. window, and is dated 1912. This is an interesting historical document since it There are wide ranging possibilities relates to the time when the Post Office in Ireland was administered by the British there . The growing and processing Post Office and it shows the hours of opening as 9 a.m. to 4p.m. daily at this non- of fruit and vegetables, flower money order and non-savings bank Post Office. 1t was also open from 9 a.m. to 10 growing etc. Farmhouse holidays a.m. on Sundays, Christmas Day and Good Friday. could also be a worthwhile activity. Developments that will provide If any of our readers have any further examples of old memorabilia perhaps employment for the young boys they would be good enough to make these available for publication. They and girls of the area are the most would afford us an insight into the operation of their Post Offices. pressing needs of the moment. Sligo Association Remembers A Civil War Hero "Irish Echo" May 1990

In a ceremony on April 29th at Calvary Cemetery in Woodside, Queens, the Sligo Association of paid memorial tribute to one of Sligo's most illustrious sons in America — General Michael Corco- ran (1827 -1863), commander of the Fighting 69th and of the Corcoran Legion during the . The Association unveiled and dedicated a newly-erected monument at Corcoran's gravesite. Leaders of New York City's Irish American commu- nity participated in the dedication ceremony. Corcoran, a native of Carrowkeel, Ballymote, Co. Sligo, was one of the more colourful of the hundreds of Irish American military leaders who commanded fighting units on battlefields of the Civil War. Corcoran, known as the "Hero of Bull Run" faced court martial for refusing to turn out his largely- Irish 69th Regiment for a paradedn honour of the Prince of Wales. He endured thirteen months of imprisonment by HERO'S GRAVE: Michael Nicholson (left), president the Confederates, during which he, personally, was of the Sligo Association, and Martin Brett (right), chair- held hostage under the threát of hanging, if the man, flank Civil War re-enactors at the gravesite of Gen. Union as it intended , executed a convicted Confed- Michael Corcoran. erate "privateer" it held in prison. Msgr. Charles Mc Donagh, chaplain of the Sligo Association, blessed the memorial and led prayers for Gen. Corcoran. Several noted historians, including John Concannon and John Ridge of the Ancient Order of Hibernians, Lt Col. Ken Powers of the.69th Regiment and Jerry Regan of the Irish Brigade re-enactors unit were present. Kevin Walzer of the Irish Consulate and Jack Irwin of the AOH also spoke as did Martin Brett, the chairman, and Michael Nicholson, president of the Sligo Association. Among those in attendance were Bill Burke, Dan Kelly, Tim Hart- nett, ParGrimes, Connie Doolan, Bill Bartnett and Brother David Concannon.

MOTHER'S UNION EVENT Mrs Yvonne Perceval

The Mother's Union is the ting for the gathering, though at and it becomes an occasion we biggest non-military organiza- first sight we wondered if we will all long remember. tion for women in the world, so would ever fill the enormous We came from Galway, Fer- there was much excitement and space! managh, Sligo, Longford many preparations to be made W e divided it into three sec- Roscommon, Mayo, Leitrim and when we heard that the World tions, one for the supper tables, Donegal, all sisters in Christ, President, Mrs Pat Harries, one for platform and audience, and it was wonderful to show to would be visiting Dio- and one for the diocesan dis- Mrs Harries that here in the cese. The Community Centre in plays. Add nearly two hundred West the Christian message proved the ideal set- women, a really superb speaker brings us all together. History of the Diocese of Achonry

MOST REV. DR. THOMAS FLYNN

If you ever drive along the road indeed it would be very under- Gaelic and Latin were studied in linking the western road into standable that a clan of the impor- the monasteries. The Brehon Dublin at the West County Hotel, tance of the 0 Haras would like to schools served the civil government onto the Dublin / Dun Laoghaire claim a member of the family as and administration, and the monas- road linking at St. Helens, you will founder of the diocese. What is fair- tic schools educated the clergy and pass through Dundrum. There you ly clear, at any rate, is that Finian of religious and they had a special will see a block of flats with the Clonard founded or established a emphasis on scripture studies. A name "St. Nathy's House". When I church, a monastery and a school in bilingual culture of Latin and Irish noticed this some years ago I Achonry in about the year 560 and developed and alongside the native assumed it was somebody from the that he left St. Nathy in charge. St oral tradition a written literature West of Ireland who had built this Nathy was the Abbot or Monk in emerged and some Brehon laws block and remembering Nathy and charge of the monastery. He was were modified by a christian ethos. the Diocese of Achonry, that he probably not a Bishop but later on Christianity seems to have been gave it that name. But on enquiry I territorial Bishops took him on as adopted enthusiastically and fairly discovered that there was a Nathy their patron and they located their rapidly in Ireland. who was a native of Dundrum and Chapter houses and Cathedral in The commitment of the Irish to who is still venerated very much in Achonry. the new faith was most impressive that area. Whether this was the In the early Irish church, jurisdic- and this is evident from the many Nathy who travelled with Finian of tion was usually in the hands of early celtic monasteries for men and Clonard to Achonry, set up a Abbots of monasteries and very women in the diocese. Many of monastery there and remained on often they employed Bishops to these flourished between the 6th in charge, I am not quite sure. There exercise their orders as required. and 11th century and indeed quite a are too many coincidences to rule The early days of the church in the- few continued into the Reformation out this possibility, and indeed, the Diocese of Achonry owes much to period. Among the best known tradition of thetime, according to St. Attracta. Many foundations in celtic monasteries for men were another, setting up monasteries in Sligo and Roscommon are attribut- , Kilnamanagh, Balla, different areas and being venerated ed to her and her convent in Kil- Kilgarvan, Cloonoghill, Kilcummin in different areas, is well known. laraght continued as a hospice for (i.e. Lavagh), Emlefad, Drumrat, St. Fechin, who was a student of almost a thousand years. She is, of Toomaughoor (i.e. Culfadda), Car- Nathy's at Achonry, not only set up course, associated with St. Coman rantemple, Monasteraden, Meelick a monastery in Ballysadare but and St. Colman and as patroness of and Achonry. There were convents went on from there to establish the diocese her popularity was for women, apart from Killaraght, abbeys in different parts of the much greater than that of St. Nathy. at Carricknahorna and Meelick and country, for instance, at Tobereheen Monasteries are the hallmark of it would appear that religious hous- which is in the parish of Moore. the early Irish church and these es for men and women existed in Also at a place called Abbey near monasteries consisted of a small cill Killasser, Kilbride, Killeden, Bohola Loughrea, at Cleggan in Co. Gal- or church, and then cells for the and Clogher. The religious in these way, at Fore in Co. Westmeath and, monks or nuns surrounded by a cir- monasteries saw their lives as a of course, his greatest foundation of cular fort and many of these had martyrdom - a complete sacrifice of all was the great royal abbey of souterains. the self achieved through prayer, Cong—Conga Fhechin. There were two separate school study and manual work or farming, Local tradition in Co. Sligo, of systems. Of course it was christiani- building and gardening. They course, says that Nathy was a ty which introduced into Ireland stressed physical hardship, they member of the 0 Hara clan, and the system of writing, and both fasted every day until evening, the tirr...... k#::^rRtfl:::: ...... food was simple and they ate no teries gave way to the Cistercians, included Maelruadhain 0 Ruadhain meat. The day was spent in almost Augtstians and the military orders from Layney. The scheme proposed complete silence with a great deal which followed the Anglo / Nor- and adopted at the Synod of Kells of solitude. Prayer was often man invasions and later the mendi- was that there would be four Arch- accompanied by penance, and pun- cant orders — the Franciscans and bishops of dioceses. The western ishment, even for trifling faults, the Dominicans. province was to have an Archbishop could be severe. They saw their life But before going on to these new in Tuam and the seven dioceses of as a journey to God, a pilgrimage, orders and their influence and loca- Mayo, Killala, Roscommom, Clon- and fixed their eyes on the destina- tion in the diocese, I would like to fert, Clonmacnoise, Kilmacduagh tion rather than the passing plea- say something about the diocese as and Achonry. This is the synod sures of this world. Many of these a unit and how it came to be as it is which was most significant because monasteries became great centres of today. There was a synod at Rath- the present diocesan boundaries of learning and christian culture, and brassil, sometime between 1110 and the diocese of Achonry are largely they were all profoundly mission- 1118 and this synod set out to rear- those defined at Kells. Now with ary in character. This is obvious range the dioceses of Ireland after diocesan areas established, work from the number of early Irish the model of a similar reorganisa- began on parish organisation and monks who travelled abroad to tion which had been carried out in support system of tithes. The spread the gospel in Scotland, Eng- Engand, fifty years earlier, after the respective rights of parish and land and on the continent of Norman invasion. According to the monastic clergy was being clarified, Europe. preamble of the Acts of the Synod although the proposed transfer of Fourteen hundred years ago, this of Rathbrassil, it was determined property from the ruling families year, Columbanus went to Europe that there would be in future and and the monasteries for dioce- and set up monasteries at Luxeuil, twelve dioceses in Leathcuinn or san and parish purposes was very where there is a large statue of him Northern Ireland, twelve in slow and difficult. dominating the town square today. Leathmhogha or southern Ireland He went on from there into Switzer- and in addition two in Meath. That THE SECOND PART OF THIS ARTICLE land and into Italy, establishing makes twenty six dioceses in all. WILL BE FEATURED IN OUR NEXT ISSUE monasteries as he went. The Cathe- The dioceses were named after dral in Wursburg is dedicated to an cities or churches, not after the Irish monk also — St. Kilian and tribes that dwelt in them . It was at there are forty five Irish saints com- this synod that the churches of Ire- 'The members of memorated in festivals or churches land were given up entirely to the in France, thirty six in the Low Bishops, free forever from the Ballymote Heritage countries, 1,155 in Germany, thir- authority and rent of the lay Group teen in Italy and many others in princes. Five dioceses were and the Editor of Austria and Switzerland. There assigned to the province of Con- were great Irish scholars on the con- naught, They were Clonfert, Tuam, The Corran Herald tinent as well. In Ireland we have Cong, Killala, Ardcarne. Boundaries James Flanagan only ten manuscripts which date were given for these five dioceses from before 1000 A.D. whereas and the comment was made that " would like to wish aft our there are fifty on the continent of if the Connaught clergy agree to readers, contributers Europe. this division we desire it, and if and advertisers There were two great weakness- they do not, let them divide it as es in that Irish monastic system. they choose and we approve of the a very happy and peace- One was that the Abbot of the division that will please them pro- ful Christmas monastery was appointed by the vided there be only five Bishops in local chieftain or patron, and the Connaught." and a prosperous 91&w second was that life in these monas- Many of the proposals of the Year. teries, was so penitential that many Synod of Rathbrassil were not of the monks found it very difficult implemented and though their to live up to the standards expected plans were helpful they were con- (pthiie Shona and, in fact, as time went by many siderably revised in the Kells Synod of them did not do so. Abuses crept of 1152. Twenty two Bishops attend- fkibk go Léir, in and in due course these monas- ed the Synod of Kells and these Young people and Sport

BRENDAN FRIEL

Sport and games have been between the two leads to a healthy perament and a sense of fair play engaged in by young people mind in a healthy body Excess of must be instilled into him of her. around the world from earliest time spent at sport will, without The idea of winning at all costs times. The child while having fun doubt, lead to academic problems should never be fostered in a childs was unconsciously preparing his but then this is misuse of sport. Stu- mind but rather use failure by way mind and body for adult life. Today dents should use sport to ease the of analysis to improve ability. sport may take many forms such as mental tensions that school work those demanding intense mental and study induce so that the mind Encouraging young people. ability - chess or draughts, or those is cleared every so often. demanding high physical ability - For success young people need athletics or football. Furthermore An interest for life. encouragement. The best source of some sports may be played for indi- encouragement is parents. A child vidual honour or as a team effort. Children who develop an inter- should never be forced to partake in Today every sport is complicated by est in sport and understand their a sport against his or her will. I the degree of skill attained by the game fully are developing an inter- would suggest that parents should best contestants, but this only est for life. In adult life when active learn the rudiments of the sport in reflects the qualities that are participation ceases then the knowl- question and then demonstrate the demanded from young adults. edge gained will increase the plea- encouragement by positive actions Modern sports when used properly sure derived as a spectator. Adults such as listening to the child, go a long way in training children who excelled at a particular sport attending matches and training and also have many beneficial side can reap further rewards by train- sessions, buying presents connected effects that are not always obvious ing young people. with the sport and talking to the to the casual observer. trainer from time to time. Very few It should be noted that the con- Some Hidden Benefits children are naturally gifted to a tents of this article refer only to chil- sport but the majority can achieve a dren who try to excel at a sport Excellence in sport is often a high degree of skill with training rather than those who merely wish major advantage when seeking and dedication. Every child is good to derive pleasure from playing. employment and often decides the at some sport but the problem may successful candidate where aca- be discovering which one. This is Sport and School Work demic qualifications are equal. Most why a child should not specialise. application forms carry two ques- Around Ballymote the number of To many parents there seems to tions -"what are your interests?" sports available is limited mainly be a complete clash of interests and " what are your achieve- because there is no sportscentre in between school and sport. There ments?" The achieving sportsper- South Sligo. The area down should be no conflict as one should son has demonstrated the qualities through the years can boast of some compliment the other, "All work of dedication, perseverance and the fine sportspeople that have brought and no play and no play makes Jack ability to make decisions under honour not just to Co Sligo but a dull boy." This is a true saying pressure. These are desirable Connaught as well. We now have because there must be a balance attributes in any candidate. For a an international sportsperson. This between training mentally and sportsperson to reach the top, the should provide for others the inspi- training physically. A good balance ambition to succeed, an even tem- ration to follow suit. ers There must be many ways to get just focus on some of the high- Greyhound bus back to Spokane, to Boston, by air or sea or land; but spots. First, the long climb up the while I continued eastward alone. my way was surely among the most west side of the Rocky mountains, After Wyoming, I had another round-about detours. Though it's a the old car wheezing with the two popular mountain areas to city I'd for years wanted to see I effort, until we reached the "conti- cross. First came the snowcapped could not afford just to go out there nental divide', on one side of which Bighorn mountains, where Custer on a holiday, from Dublin. Still, all rivers flow into the Pacific, and fought his last stand against Sitting opportunity often comes, if you on the other, into the great basin of Bull and the Sioux. Then on to the wait long enough. So while spend- the Mississippi, flowing out into the beautiful Black Hills of Dakota, ing the school year of 1989-90 at the Gulf of Mexico. I stopped to visit where I stopped_to swim in a warm Jesuit university of Spokane, on a the mile-high city of Butte, Mon- lake beneath a purple hillside that one-year contract as their overseas tana, where years ago so many reminded me of Lough Leane, near professor in theology I finally got Irishmen did back breaking work in Killarney. A few miles more an invitation from the Boston arch- the largest copper mines of Ameri- brought me to Mount Rushmore, diocese. They wanted a priest for ca. Then down along the line of the where the enormous faces of four the month of July, in the parish of Rockies, to spend a couple of days presidents (Washington, Jefferson, Milton, just ten miles south of in Yellowstone National Park, with Lincoln and Roosevelt) are carved Boston harbour. A quick phone-call its whooshing hot- water geysers, in the granite mountainside. Thou- to my superior in Dublin (Mount its many grizzly bears, buffaloes sands of tourists there , of course, Argus) got me the required and other wild life; its ice-cold lake popping cameras and buying burg- approval, and suddenly my sights (at 2,500 metres above sea level) ers, and complaining that they had were set on Massachusetts. and its spectacular view of the saw- to park their cars so far back from Spokane is in the state of Wash- toothed grand Teton range. With the viewing platforms. Already I ington, on the Pacific coast, just my American travel companion, a could feel the noisy influence of south of Vancouver. And it's a long teacher named Mike, I camped in a Easterners, in the mountains of the way from coast to coast across the gorge beside the Firehole river, and West. United States, so most people who woke around dawn to hear a Then came the hundreds of miles value their time and comfort wheezy, snuffling sound outside across the plains, through Nebraska would do the journey by air. But our tent. It was a big, shaggy buffa- and Iowa , over the Mississippi my work in Spokane ended in mid- lo ambling past, on his way up from river into Illinois, on across Indiana June, which left me free to choose the drinking hole!. No more tenting and up through Michigan to the long, overland way —3,500 miles from then on, except in official, Detroit. Only after crossing lake St. along America's highway system. It well-protected campsites. Clair into Canada did the drive was tempting, though maybe a bit After crossing over the 9,000 ft become interesting again, especially risky, to tackle this journey in my Sylvan Pass, to the east of Yellow- along the shore of lake Ontario and fourteen year old car (appropriately, stone, it was sixty miles of downhill on to the Niagara Falls. That thun- and Oldsmobile!) and I had many through the Rockies, to the popular dering river has to be heard to be people and places to visit along the resort of Cody, Wyoming. The town believed! I enjoyed viewing the way. Anyway the trip turned out is named after William ("Buffalo mighty cascade from both sides of well, and I'd like to share some Bill") Cody, the famous army scout the border, and spent the night as impressions of it with you. from the 1870's, when the railroad guest of the Vincentian Fathers, in Setting across a continent, you was just replacing the old wagon Niagara University. know that only some parts will be train, as the means for transporting Only two more States to cross; colourful and interesting, while settlers out to the empty farmlands that meant just 450 miles, or one long stretches will be just plain of the west. The parish priest in more long day on the road! A very monotonous. So let me spare you Cody is a hospitable Cavan man pleasant day, too, driving through the endless haul across the great named Charles Brady, who insisted wooded hilly country of upper plains, almost 2,000 miles of wheat I spend a couple of days with him, New York, past familiar place- country, from Rapid City ioouth and introduced me to many of his names like Luffalo. Rochester, Dakota) to Detroit (Michigan), and friends. Then Mike had to take the Albany and Syracuse. Then on through the higher terrain of the Berkshire hills in Massachussets, THE DOLE where I knew that the Boston Pops orchestra holds its open-air summer UNA PRESTON concerts. By evening I'd reached the Boston ring road, with its frenzied + 4. -I- 4- 4- + traffic whizzing by in a snarl of New England impatience. An anx- The name is wrong. The system It is important that the elected ious half-hour and several enquiries is wrong. Dole queues suggest the representative should work closely later, I was ringing the doorbell of soup kitchens of other days. with those who elected them and it Milton rectory. Human beings are at the mercy of is equally important that the elec- The housekeeper's Irish accent bureaucrats, their human dignity torate should demand that sort of was unmistakable. After thirty five eroded! co -operation. years in Boston, Bairbre might We read lately of a 20% increase We are told of a programme for never have left Connemara, apart for high ranking officials who national recovery, yet these perfor- from the occasional phrase like " I already have very substantial mances are tolerated even encour- guess", "rest room" and " the far salaries according to our standards aged by Government. side of the water". Soon she was and we heard earlier of the Gravy In over crowded Dublin the talking away in as fluent a spate of Train to Europe - our MEPs. developers continue to move in, get Gaeilge as you'd hear on R.T.E., and Surely we have a two-tier econo- their planning permission and add telling me the names of various my. Those at the top her richer another housing estate to our people I'd have to meet, from Gal- while the jobless and those depend- already top-heavy capital city, while way and Mayo and Sligo, all living ing on Social Welfare increase in country areas are being depopulat- in the parish and dying to hear an number . A recent suggestion was ed, their potential for development Irish accent again from the pulpit of made that money for job-creation ignored, their youth prepared for St. Elizabeth's. Why, just down the should be made available to the St. emigration, and the available work- road was this lad from , Vincent de Paul society. This is sure- force pacified with the degraking and of Bert Clarke, doing very well ly a reneging of responsibility on dole. Ordinary citizens could not as a builder... the part of Government. This Soci- but feel that a better way of dis- It was indeed a long way from ety does excellent work in its own tributing the country's wealth Ballymote to Boston, but I knew I right, but we elected a government could be found and put into opera- had come to the right place. And to deal with unemployment, educa- tion. maybe another time we'll talk about tion, public health and the economy Employment, not hand-outs, is my stay there, and people I met... generally. the real need.

HERITAGE WEEKEND Ballymote's first ever Her- itage Weekend last August proved an enormous success. The full and varied pro- gramme of talks, outings and entertainment was enjoyed by many from home and abroad. The 1991 weekend is now being planned. Keep it in mind and tell your friends. You and they are assured of another educational and entertaining occasion. uT^; , . . . . . v . . X• T : Jn' .'• } %.i '.• .' . BALLYMOTE MOATS

Jack Martin

The first thing that strikes one place. Incidentally I never saw the first look at a crannóg. It was in a about the names mentioned above deep hole to dry out even in the place called Ballinderry —Baile an is that there is a moat in both, Baile- hottest summer. Legend has it that Doire. A retired British Army an - Mhota, Ballymote and Mota — some Quaker was buried in the had a "big place" out there, Grainne -Oige, Moate. Neither of graveyard over the wall and for a big house, miles of land and of these moats have I seen, but I have want of a headstone the relatives course a lake. His foreman worker no doubt they are somewhere in took St. Patrick's stone and put it at was one day "dragging a trench" both places. Mota-Gráine - Oige as the grave, but when morning came when he took up on his drag a jew- one can imagine has to do with the stone was back in its own place. elled sword. The excitement grew, Gráinne óg 0 Malley, well known When I think of Moate a large and whether by accident or design, as the Pirate Queen. She is sup- number of place names come to or due to a long dry summer, the posed to be buried in Moate, but mind, Aughanargid — Ait-an - level of the lake fell very low. Lo then who knows. Airgead (place of money), but none and behold .a crannóg appeared, Who is writing about Moate and was ever found there! Knockdom- and then the work started in why? Well I was born there and ney — Cnoc Domhnaigh where the earnest. I remember walking out to spent my early years there. When I people used to walk out and spend see the crannóg. The whole school was growing up Moate had nothing Sunday evenings viewing the coun- was taken out and it was very to boast about only a big wide try from that famous hill in fine pleasant to walk in bare feet with street. people would say " up the fresh air. the warm dust trickling through the Main Street and down the same There were places like Ballinakill toes. We never wore shoes or boots Street" because there was only the Ballinamuddagh, Kilomeenaghan, to school, the most of us always one street. At the Western end of Killogeenahan and many more too went in "the bare ones"'. the town was the Custom Gap numerous to mention. One place I We thought the crannóg was a where people had to pay customs of must mention is Horseleap — Leim great yoke, and I recall seeing tolls at one stage, and at the Eastern an tic . The priests were being young men and girls digging in the end was a part of the town called hunted at one time and the story bog and taking up piles of bone the Newtown (why, I could not goes that a priest was escaping particles, animal and human I sup- even guess). Midway in the town from his pursuers. He took to the pose. Other bits and pieces came to was "Moate Harbour" which in fields in a mad gallop. There was a light as well. These were all put in actual fact was only a drinking river in the field and he thought if bags and transferred to the Dublin place for livestock. Near the "Har- he could get across the river he Museum. bour" was a castle of sorts, but I fear would be away, but unfortunately Apart from the Crannóg itself, it was only a big old house which in the river bridge was broken down. the greatest find was a big long my time was badly in need of He put the horse at the bridge and boat, carved from the trunk of a repair. Behind the castle was a the gallant animal cleared it but in huge oak tree. The boat was long, Quaker graveyard. Over the wall so doing , he left the imprint of his so the oak tree had to be a huge from the graveyard in Hogan's field front hooves in the farthest wall of one. The main problem was how to was a huge big stone. There were the bridge and they can be seen to transport this monstrous thing to two holes in the stone and it was this day. Dublin. There were no forty foot said that St. Patrick knelt on it to In the early days Moate had a articulated lorries that time, but the pray and left the imprint of his thriving flax industry and the evi- local saw mill came to the rescue, knees in it. I remember as a child dence of this can be seen in a short They had a long low cart with a picking wild flowers and putting street or road called 'The Weavers large pole in the middle which them in the holes the deeper of Road". It is told that the weavers in allowed the rear wheels to be which always held water. We the mill had a row of houses there. pushed back to lengthen the cart. regarded it as a kind of sacred It was near Moate that I had my The boat was packed onto this vehi- cle and teams of four or six horses pulled it to Dublin. There were 'Derroon Days of Glory" overnight stops of course and hors- es had to be changed, but the boat arrived safely and to my mind it is still there on display. As to what happened the crannóg, I do not know. Maybe the lake flooded and covered it again. I may go back one day to investigate. Not far away from Moate is Clonmacnois, "Seven Churches" we called it and I often went there to funerals. Nearer home was Cas- tledaly, - Kilcleagh in Irish. The cemetery there had an old church but I do no not know if it was the church mentioned in - "Kilcleagh" or not. There was very little talk of Her- itage then but I am sure that there are many items of interest to histori- Fuorrr Row L.TO R. Jimmy Tighe, Val Henry R.I.P., J. J. Lavin, Andy ans in that area now. I was too Rogers, F. Mc Donagh R.I.P., Paddy Cawley, Pat Tansey, Vinnie Mc Guin- young then to heed these things. It ness, BACK Row L.TO R. Tommy Monison R.I.P. Martin Davey, Jimmy was only since I came to Ballymote Wims, John Brennan, John Kivlehan, Tom Mc Gettrick, Matt Scanlan, that so many things of heritage Packy Davey nature have claimed my interest. I am quite sure that is one of the richest counties in Ire- land heritage-wise, and I have a Progress ? feeling that all the things that have been found are only the tip of the Mrs. Yvonne Perceval iceberg, and that there are many many more discoveries to be made. Beannacht Dé ar an obair. As a last Every day we lose part of Ire- Not all was good just because it was reference to Moate there is a 4000 land. Not only the big bits - the long ago. Now if children are bare- year old Cairn there but I never saw Woodquays, the Killymoon Hoards, foot, they want to be so; our schools it. the carved stones from lonely have central heating, no more These are memories from over places - but the sights and sounds smoking turf carried up to the fifty years ago but I hope they can that used to made up Irish Life. building. We plant flowers in our still be of interest and give a little The noise of the steam train's gardens - bought from the garden entertainment to the readers. whistle; the clip-clop of a horse's centre - but we import vegetables hooves in the early morning as the and fruit. We have a good white farmer took lambs to the Fair; the light but it's also the light of the TV, corncrake; cocks crowing, and the and where is the family talk and The Conan Herald matronly Rhode Island Red hens gossip? We have strangers now sit- published by and those elegant gray and white ting together in houses, silent BALLYMOTE HERITAGE Light Sussex Hens whose eggs had square-eyed intent on what is at GROUP flavour and texture; the potato best forgettable, at worst degrading. Editor James Flanagan rows outside the houses and the We don't listen - we don't look. Design and Typesetting enormous flat cabbages; wireless Have we become like Chesterton's Drumlin Publications batteries on handlebars being taken people whose Manorhamilton, Co. Leitrim. for recharging; the pails of spring "Doors are shut in the evenings Printed by the Sligo Champion water; the deep gold of oil lamps. and who know no songs"? r :F:i^;:t:i'tisf::;:^:^c::i;;:;µá::`•:{:r:Y`/^{,4^,•u,i.}^}j'^^^:.^:+R:^f:'t;::i2:;r r, {y$'^:4 • p 4::k+"T•\, H./b .. •: i•'s-•::?:: .a?., i ..,!^:^:••:.`:+?d ',k,•i,'.••-.-^,:'i^><:•><^:Sf r^, .::i °.•:'...pt.•,:S:i:.:•.;5.2''r,:'.::: , :v7;>,':r)^.c' x:ó:::'•.'•i:8::`•i.E`Ct:. '^^i:'v'in0?:'^ Patrick Boyce Coglin By John Mc Tiernan

The majority of our celebrated The year was 1836, and all the "Scanty as are the records of the Sligo 'Exiles" achieved fame in wealth he possessed in the world earliest pastoral occupation of the Eyre either Europe or the Americas. This, was fifty pounds which he had Peninsula for stock raising, the name however, is the story of an Irish saved from his scanty wages. How- of "Paddy" Coglin appears prominent- emigrant, the son of a County Sligo ever, as subsequent events proved , ly in the picture,""wrote Cockburn in tenant farmer, who fled from his it was quite enough for one his Pastoral Pioneers of South Aus- native country with his family, at a endowed with such a shrewd head! tralia. "He took out leases of over four time when the Catholic tenantry Soon after his arrival he purchased hundred square miles of country, and were experiencing a difficult time , the lease of a small plot of land in proceeded to stock it with cattle and and settled in far off Australia Hindley Street and opened a timber sheep". But two great factors that where he became remarkably suc- yard there. His business flourished retarded progress in this part of cessful in business and politics. Had almost overnight and received a Australia, isolation and a shortage Patrick Coglin stayed at home in great impetus when the Burra cop- of water, were beyond the power of Ireland he would, doubtless, have per mines were opened. Soon his Coglin to surmount, and he was remained a starving peasant brood- area of ground became too small for shrewd enough to quit before ing over his country's wrongs', any further expansion, and he ruination came upon him. Howev- whereas, in his adopted country, he accordingly purchased a larger area er, during his subsequent parlia- became a man of great wealth and in nearby William Street for which mentary career he spared no effort influence. His achievement is but he paid five hundred pounds. On a in seeking to persuade successive another example of the fertility of portion of this property he subse- governments to initiate an irriga- the Celtic intellect and of the suc- quently erected the first Napoleon tion scheme in an area which he cess attained by so many of his race Hotel. At the time of his death the declared suitable for pastoral or on a foreign shore. Of the many site purchased for five hundred agricultural occupation. What he Sligonians who sought refuge and pounds was worth at least one hun- failed to have undertaken during attained prominence in Australia dred times that figure! It is a tribute his lifetime has since been receiving over the past century or so Coglin's to Coglin's generosity that,having active attention from recent Aus- story is one of the few to have been made a highly favourable deal for tralian governments. chronicled in some detail. And little yet another site in William Street, he Coglin also established a suc- wonder, for it has been said that he gave a long lease of it, at a very low cessful sheep station in the Rapid was the most 'picturesque figure' in rent, to a former employee he want- Bay district of the south. As Irish Adelaide in his day and generation! ed to start in business, and thus he luck would have it, silver and lead Patrick Boyce Coglin, or, as his had only a remote reversionary deposits were discovered on his name is better known, Coughlan, interest in what proved to be a lands in 1865, and he sold five thou- was born in Ballymote in 1815. His rapidly improving freehold. With sand acres of his run to the mining parents, Bartholomew Coglin and his extended timber trade continu- company for a sum of twenty thou- Mary Boyce, were of old and hon- ing to prosper, he bought extensive sand pounds. This was a fortunate ourable families; and his uncle, Dr land property, and in a relatively break for him at a time when the Boyce, enjoyed a wide reputation in short space of time he became, pastoral industry in South Australia his profession and was a successful reputedly, a very wealthy man. was passing through a period of breeder of horses. In 1831, when From his childhood days in Ire- great depression. sixteen years of age, Coglin, with land, Coglin had an interest in agri- " Paddy" Coglin, the timber his parents, sisters and brothers, culture and farming. With the prof- merchant and real estate dealer sailed for Tasmania where "Paddy". its accruing from his thriving tim- who always described himself as as he was universally called, com- ber business he purchased or a"stockholder" on nomination pleted his education and was subse- leased large tracts of land in the forms, was also a widely known quently apprenticed to an architect Eyre Peninsula of South Australia. and highly respected parliamentari- and builder. He started with a modest one an. In the history of responsible After a few years in Tasmania, hundred head of sheep and a few government in South Australia it Patrick Coglin bade adieu to his cattle, but this figure quickly multi- would be difficult to name another family and sailed south to Adelaide plied as he acquired more and man who represented more districts in the steamer The Lady Liverpool. more land. in the House of Assembly. His polit- carAptttexatu:>>::>:::>:!: ...... >><><>> ical career extended from 1860 to amounted to a language of his own," the world, found in his unostenta- 1887, during which period he was wrote Cockburn, "He coined words tious benevolence the succour returned by the electors of five dif- that were foreign to any dictionary, they so badly needed to make a ferent areas. He was one of the and, at times, his style descended re-start in life's struggle. He never most popular politicians in South almost to buffoonery, but his sincerity forgot the land of his birth, and Australia, and in the matter of of purpose was never questioned, and his name was always to the fore- eccentricities and peculiarities he he was immensely popular with all par- front in the Land League sub- stood far and away in advance of ties and the public." In 1886 he was scription lists sent home to Davitt his fellows. The name of The Poly- elected Mayor of Hindmarsh, a fit- and Parnell. Though a Catholic by syllabic', which had been so often ting tribute to his interest in and upbringing, he was a member of good-humourously applied to him, work for his adopted country. Dur- the Freemasons' Craft for a time. sufficiently indicates one of these ing his period of office he proved However, a few days before he characteristics "an intense love for himself a capable administrator and died he renounced Freemasonry, and use of tremendously long words – a most popular and widely respect- according to the contents of a doc- archaic and modern, English and for- ed first-citizen. ument published in the South eign, remnants of dead and representa- 'Paddy' Coglin was a keen Australian Register, at the request tives of living languages." Visitors to sportsman and an enthusiastic of Archbishop C. Reynolds of the House were invariably stag- lover of horse-racing, and it was Adelaide, after his death. The gered by his extraordinary sen- because of his exertions that a text was as follows: tences. One of his last was in refer- lease of the old Adelaide race- IULY 18TH, 1892: I, Patrick ence to a charge of misrepresenta- course was obtained from the City Boyce Coglin,J.P., being bap- tion made against a fellow-member Corporation. He was also respon- tised and confirmed in the Holy who, said Coglin„ "has been accused sible for the erection of the Grand Roman Catholic Church, desire of a departure from the punctilios of Stand on the same course, and for to die in the faith of that Church, truism". His witty interjections, too, many years was the chief promot- were very entertaining, and many a er of races on the 'People's and also desire to condemn all spirit wounded by some heavy Course". He used to race horses that she condemns and approve blow in debate was often mollified himself, and in the earlier years of all that she approves. by his good-natured pleasantries. his colours were very often seen Therefore, I renounce all the Notwithstanding the Sligoni- in the front. In this, as in other craft of freemasonry of secret an's peculiar opinions, and his no matters, he always 'went straight'. societies of any kind whatsoever, less extraordinary method of vent- For many years he was one of the trusting in her Sacraments as ing them,– " in spite of an impetuosi- principal horsebreeders in Aus- means or channels of eternal life, ty of manner and of utterance rarely tralia, but he sold his stud in Mel- I wish my body to be interred in witnessed, and of a plainness of speech bourne in 1884, his advanced age and an absolute fearlessness in preventing him from an active the Catholic Cemetery in my own denouncing friend and foe alike" – indulgence in his taste for sport- mother's vault after my soul is Coglin in his day was amongst the ing. For years after his death his taken by my Saviour at death' best-liked members of Parliament. friends loved to recall his annual Patrick Boyce Coglin died on Though his name does not stand motion in the Assembly for a July 22nd, 1892, aged seventy high on the record of useful public grant of money for 'The Queen's seven years, and was buried in legislation, he earned the distinc- Hundred', and the sesquipedalian the handsome and elaborate mau- tion of being the most untiring and phrases used by him in recom- soleum which he had erected for uniformly successful local repre- mending it to members who were his mother at a cost of over one sentative South Australia has ever wont to laugh vociferously at his thousand pounds. His wife who known. More than any of his con- sallies, and to reject his proposal. had predeceased him by nine temporaries he displayed a thor- He possessed a great love of hors- years, was also buried there. As ough grasp of the needs of the es and horseracing that remained he had no family, he left his vast young and growing colonies. He with him to the end. He once wealth to his brother, James unceasingly badgered Ministers to opposed vigorously, a proposal to Coglin, and three sisters. promote the interests of his district, a.' `ourn Parliament over the date The memory of Patrick Boyce and he consistently advocated the of an Inter-State football match, Coglin, the immigrant lad from claims for legislative encourage- but declared that he would not Ballymote who achieved fame ment of what he used to term the "hesitate for a moment to agree to and fortune on the Australian "squatocracy". He even declared an adjournment for a first-class shore, is perpetuated to this day he had no objection to land 'dum- horse race" by the town of Coglin, and four myism' so long as the rent was In private life Coglin was a streets in the metropolitan area of paid to the Government. "He generous and hospitable man. Adelaide. His long and devoted rather spoiled his influence by an Many a poor soul, worsted in the life in the service of his adopted eccentricity of speech which really struggle with the difficulties of country has not been forgotten. 14 KANES GERRY CASSIDY BETTER VALUE Lord Edward St. FOODMARKET Ballymote BALLYMOTE GROCERY & FOR ALL YOUR NEWSAGENT CHRISTMAS SHOPPING FRESH COOKED CHICKENS DAILY Wish all their Customers a Very Happy Christmas and a prosperous New Year Very Happy Christmas and a Bright New Year

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