©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

NAPLES & THE AMALFI COAST

CRISTIAN BONETTO BRENDAN SAINSBURY Contents

Plan Your Trip 4 Welcome to & the Amalfi Coast...... 4 Top Sights...... 6 Eating...... 10 Drinking & Nightlife...... 12 Shopping...... 14 Archaeology...... 16 Architecture & Art...... 17 Tours & Courses...... 18 For Kids...... 19 Four Perfect Days...... 20 Need to Know...... 22 Naples & the Amalfi Coast Neighbourhoods...... 24

Pompeii (p92) JAVEN/SHUTTERSTOCK © Explore Survival Naples & the Guide 143 Amalfi Coast 27 Before You Go...... 144 Centro Storico...... 29 Arriving in Naples...... 145 Toledo & Getting Around...... 146 Quartieri Spagnoli...... 51 Essential Information.... 148 La Sanità & Language...... 152 Capodimonte...... 65 Index...... 156 Santa Lucia & Chiaia...... 77 Capri Town & the Isle of Capri...... 107 Special Features Sorrento & the Amalfi Coast...... 121 Capella Sansevero...... 30 Duomo...... 32 Worth a Trip Museo Archeologico Nazionale...... 52 Certosa e Museo di San Martino...... 74 Palazzo Reale...... 56 Pompeii...... 92 Palazzo Reale di Capodimonte...... 66 Mt Vesuvius...... 98 Historic Villas...... 108 Herculaneum (Ercolano)...... 100 Positano...... 122 Reggia di Caserta...... 104 Ravello...... 128 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Welcome to Naples & the Amalfi Coast

Naples is raw, high-octane energy, a place of soul-stirring art and pano- ramas, spontaneous conversations and unexpected elegance. It’s here that you’ll find Italy’s most intoxicating street life, and many of its most extraordinary paintings, sculptures and architectural treasures, not to mention its finest pizza and espresso. Beyond it lies the seraphic Amalfi Coast, seducer of artists and hopeless romantics for centuries. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 6 Top Sights

Museo Archeologico Nazionale Priceless ancient art and artefacts. p52 Plan Your TripPlan BJANKA KADIC/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO © Top Sights 7

L. ROMANO/MUSEO E REAL BOSCO DI CAPODIMONTE © Palazzo Reale di Capodimonte Masterpieces in a Bourbon palace. p66 Plan Your TripPlan Top Sights JAVEN/SHUTTERSTOCK © Pompeii A town frozen in time. p92 MARCO CANTILE/CONTRIBUTOR/GETTY IMAGES © Capella Sansevero Extraordinary sculptures, legend and alchemy. p30 8 Certosa e Museo di Palazzo Reale San Martino A treasure-filled royal palace. p56 Hilltop monastery treasures. p74 JAVEN/SHUTTERSTOCK © Plan Your TripPlan ERIC VALENNEGEOSTORY/SHUTTERSTOCK © Top Sights LEONID ANDRONOV/SHUTTERSTOCK© CORTYN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Capri Villas Reggia di Caserta Evocative, legend-laced island Italy’s largest, most breathtaking hideaways. p108 palace. p104 9 Positano Duomo The Amalfi Coast’s photogenic Naples’ glorious, centuries- protagonist. p122 spanning cathedral. p32 LEOKS/SHUTTERSTOCK © Plan Your TripPlan Top Sights MITZO/SHUTTERSTOCK © NEIRFY/SHUTTERSTOCK © BRENDAKEAN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Ravello Herculaneum (Ercolano) Terraced gardens and famous A compact Roman time machine. fans. p128 p100 TOMASZ WOZNIAK/SHUTTERSTOCK © ) 82 - ) while ) before ) before Castel Castel Da Officina ), a ), from from 61 88 aperitivo aperitivo Caffè Caffè 66 Galleria (p (p Cantine (p ) for morning ) for ) to ) to ). Alternatively, Alternatively, ). 62 Palazzo Reale Reale Palazzo ) or 60 ). ) and dinner at 86 (p sfogliatella 87 ), tour the ancient tour ), (p 85 ), then scale then scale ), 88 (p (pictured above; p above; (pictured (p 67 (p 69 (p (p (p Al Barcadero Barril del Mare Chiaia for hit trendy at Sociali Dialetti detouring through through detouring I Umberto Gambrinus the nearby Catch espresso. shuttle bus to di Capodimonte with priceless crammed palace artworks. at lunch a casual After Luisa Gen di San Catacombe naro dell’Ovo panorama. a sea-and-city for at lo-fi waterfront Rehydrate bar at on seafood feasting Day 2 Nibble on a Mary Sfogliatella

INU/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

) - - - - - ) or 41 Mu 41 (p Piazza (p ). For a For ). ), clear clear ), Cappella Concet 70 ). If there’s If there’s ). Cristo ve Cristo 38 ) before ) before (p ). 39 ), lose yourself yourself lose ), ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Publications Planet ©Lonely 32 Complesso Complesso (p 30 Tandem 41 ). burst of baroque baroque of burst (p (p (p Donna Romita Donna 150 ), then pay tribute tribute then pay ),

(p 38 Chiesa del Gesù Nuovo del Gesù Chiesa MADRE ) or critique contemporary ) or critique contemporary Duomo sculpture inside sculpture

(p 52 tina Ai Tre Santi tina Ai Tre on hit the bars nightcap, Bellini still time, take in the vainglori take time, still ous dinner at pizzeria or standout in ancient mosaics and marble and in ancient mosaics at the blockbuster brawn Archeologico Nazionale seo (p art at lato Sansevero lunch at After Salumeria cloister of the of cloister Chi Santa di Monumentale ara the magnificent to Start with a Start in the p above; (pictured mind in the majolica-tiled your Day 1 Four PerfectFour Days

20 Plan Your Trip Four Perfect Days 21 Plan Your Trip Four Perfect Days

- - - - -

Pompeii ). Villa dei Villa 87 at Cam (p13). (p ) before slurp ) before caffè Teatro San San Teatro 93 (p Campana (p93), home to one of one of to home (p93), or Michelin-starred or Michelin-starred (pictured above; p59) be p59) above; (pictured L’Antiquario sojourn at cognoscenti cocktail cocktail at cognoscenti sojourn den (p92), easily reached from Na from reached easily (p92), train. Circumvesuviana by ples the include Highlights Misteri impressive most the largest, ancient from paintings wall Lunch at deli-eatery times. Melius President ing superlative specialty-coffee first pania’s roastery an (in sea up with things Wrap at Naples’ or ballet opera son) world-famous Carlo Neapolitan your to toasting fore Day 4 millennia on two back Travel at the ruins of four day

GIANNIS PAPANIKOS/SHUTTERSTOCK © -

), 114 ). (p (pictured (pictured 84 . Leave the Leave . È Divino (p ) or ) or wine bar ) or wine bar 115 84 (p (p La Piazzetta Monte Solaro Solaro Monte ), then head up to Anaca up to then head ), Giardini Giardini di Augusto 115 L’Ebbrezza di Noè L’Ebbrezza to reserve a table at classic at classic a table reserve to Ettore Da beautiful hikes on Capri. hikes beautiful ahead call in Naples, Back above). The peak can also be also can The peak above). many one of on foot; reached pri for a bewitching chairlift a bewitching pri for ride to Il Geranio (p some of the best views on the views the best of some at a lazy lunch Enjoy island. of shops behind as you head head behind as you shops of to and terraces with flower-filled square square strut sophisticated surrounding and join the local who’s-who who’s-who and join the local at the emblematic brigade to fabled Capri. Turn up before up before Turn Capri. fabled to descend trippers the day On day three, hop on a hydrofoil hop on a hydrofoil three, day On Day 3

RUI VALE SOUSA/SHUTTERSTOCK © ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 22 Need to Know For detailed information, see Survival Guide p143

Language Daily Budget Italian

Plan Your TripPlan Budget: Less than €100 Currency Dorm bed: €15–30 Euro (€) Double room in a budget hotel: €50–110 Visas Pizza or pasta lunch/dinner: €15 Generally not required Bus, metro or funicular ticket: €1.10

Need to Know to Need for stays of up to 90 Return train ticket to Pompeii: €5.60 days (or at all for EU nationals); some Midrange: €100–200 nationalities need a Double room in a midrange hotel: €80–180 Schengen visa. Lunch and dinner in a local restaurant: €25–50

Money Three-day Artecard pass: €21 ATMs at Naples’ Return express-train ticket to Pompeii: €11 Capodichino airport and major train Top end: More than €200 stations; widely Double room in a four- or five-star hotel: €150–450 available in towns and Top restaurant dinner: €50–120 cities. Credit cards Hydrofoil to Capri: €21.50 (one-way) accepted in most hotels and restaurants. Advance Planning Mobile Phones Two months before Book your hotel and any Local SIM cards can tickets for the Teatro San Carlo. be used in European, One month before Book any cooking courses Australian and some and email the Biblioteca Nazionale to organise unlocked US phones. access to its ancient papyri. Other phones must be One to two weeks before Email the Museo set to roaming. delle Arti Sanitarie for an English-language tour of the Farmacia Storica degli Incurabili. Time Book tickets to the Cappella Sansevero and Central European Time tables at higher-end restaurants, especially on (GMT/UTC plus one Capri and the Amalfi Coast in high season. hour) Walking Tour c A World Heritage Wander Naples is a city of hidden wonders, legend and Walk Facts contrasts, and no corner of the city illustrates this Start Port’Alba; mDante more than the centro storico. Thread your way End Duomo; mPiazza from Port’Alba to the Duomo through a heady, Cavour evocative maze where ancient ruins rub shoulders Length 1.8km; 2½ hours with bohemian bars and boutiques, enigmatic sculptures and frescoes, and the odd secret cloister.

000 000 000 V i a

D u 00000 Museo om 00000 ¡# 00000 o 00000

G V

V V e i 000 c i r 000 V c i #æ V c o o 0'€00#7 o o i i l 000 C d a o a 000 i C G m e e d o S 000 E a i i i i li s n g i V a a n n n t q a u n b a i i r r u n T t n i t 0000 a c e i t 0000 s o i M 0000 n a 0000 o V P n a Piazza 00 0000 p t i r e 00 i a i o San Gaetano a 00 s D l 00 V s i d 00 i u i i a i l n a om un S a Via San ib a Piazza r e A i T p n e ep r o Piazz0a00Pietro a d us i m Gr 000 000L0ui0gi 0 ia Gi affe 000 000000 V ico M e e Bellini Maiella Miraglia V V n 000 000000 i g ##æ2 co #æ o o 000 000000 V #6 000 000000 r i i 000 000000 a a S o Via l ai 00000Port'Alb0a 00 000000 r 00000 N N N Lib ~ i i i & i e 00000 ##æ3 l l co 0000 #æ1 o d 00000 ##æ4 o io 0000 l g D0an0te0¡#00 a ia 0000 00000 Vico n B 0000 00000 Vico San Sa 0000 00P0iaz0za0San Pietro 00 Via 0000 00000 S Domenico 00000 0#æ05 V 0000 V S 00000 e 00000 00 i 0000 Dante c 00000 i 00000 00 S 0000 00000 b a Maggiore V0ia0 Fr0an0ce0sco Piazzetta e o V 0000 a e i 00000 S 00000 c 0000 s G S v 00000 a 0d0e S0an0ct0is o 0000 t Nilo i S e 00000 i n 00000 a a r 00000 V c F i n n e i o i o c a l o ro m i 000 p o C G 000 to p d t o e 000 d P o e e 000 l en a 000 o B l 000 ia a T V 000 d

a i i n o V

000 e# 0 200 m 00000 0 0.1 miles 00000 000000 000 000 0000 0000 121 Explore Y Sorrento & the Amalfi Coast The Amalfi Coast is one of Italy’s most bewitching destinations. Mountains plunge into the sea in a nail- biting vertical scene of crags, cliff-clinging abodes and verdant woodland. From precipitous Positano to lofty Ravello, its string of fabled towns read like a Hollywood cast list. Its western gateway is Sorrento, a handsome clifftop resort that, despite the package tourism, retains its seductive southern soul.

Sorrento’s bustling heart is Piazza Tasso, with many of the town’s sights in the streets of the centro storico (p134) directly to the west of it. These include the Basilica di Sant’Antonino (p136) and the Museo Bottega della Tarsia Lignea (p135). The town’s best bathing spot, Bagni Regina Giovanna (p135), is also to the west, though further out of town. East of Sorrento, both the Amalfi Coast jewels of Positano (p122) and Ravello (p128) can be tackled as day trips, though it’s worth spending a night in each to slow down the pace and properly soak up their charms.

Getting There & Around L Circumvesuviana trains run to Naples via Pompeii and Ercolano. J SITA Sud buses serve Naples and the Amalfi Coast, leaving from the bus station across from the Circumvesuviana train station. N Sorrento is the main jumping-off point for Capri and also has ferry connections to Naples and Amalfi coastal resorts during the summer months.

Sorrento Map on p132

View of Amalfi Coast from Ravello (p128) JAVEN/SHUTTERSTOCK © Top Sight A Positano Deluxe, dramatic Positano is the Amalfi Coast’s Tourist Office pin-up, its vertiginous houses tumbling down to %089 87 50 67 the sea in a cascade of sun-bleached peach, pink www.aziendaturismo and terracotta. Its steep streets and steps are no positano.it less photogenic, flanked by wisteria-draped ho- Via Regina Giovanna 13 tels, smart restaurants and fashionable boutiques. h8.30am-8pm Mon-Sat, Yet, despite its celebrity status, a southern-Italian to 2pm Sun May-Sep, holiday feel lingers, from its crumbling stucco to reduced hours rest of year its pizza-chowing sunbathers. 156 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Index See also separate subindexes for: 5 Eating pxxxp158 6 Drinking pxxxp158 3 Entertainment pXXXp158 7 Shopping pXXXp159

A Basilica di Santa shopping 117 Certosa e Museo di Restituta 33 sights 108-11, 114 San Martino 74-5 accessible travel Basilica di transport 107 Chiaia 77-89, 78, 80-1 148-9 Sant’Antonino car travel 148 drinking 87-8 accommodation 144-5 136 Casa dei Vettii entertainment 88 airports 145-6 Basilica Santa Maria 94, 96 food 84-7 Amalfi Coast 121-41, della Sanità & Casa del Fauno 94 shopping 88-9 132-3 Catacombe di Casa del sights 82-4 drinking 139-40 San Gaudioso 69 Menandro 96 transport 77 food 137-9 bathrooms 151 Casa del Poeta walks 78-9 shopping 140-1 Battistero di San Index Tragico 94 Giovanni in Chiesa & Chiostro sights 122-31, 134-7 Fonte 33 Casa del Tramezzo di di San Francesco transport 121 Biblioteca Legno 103 136 Anfiteatro 97 Nazionale 57 Casa dello Scheletro Chiesa del Gesù aperitivi 13, 88 boat travel 148 101 Nuovo 38 archaeological sites & Borgo Orefici 48-9, Casa di Nettuno e Chiesa della Certosa Anfitrite 102 ruins 16, see also 48 75 individual sites Castel dell’Ovo 79, bus travel 141, 147 Chiesa di San architecture 17 82-3 business hours 149 Domenico area codes 151 Castel Nuovo 60-1 Maggiore 38-9 art 17, 83 C Catacombe di San Chiesa di San ATMs 150 Gennaro 69 Giovanni a Mare Capella di San cell phones 22, 151 49 B Gennaro 33 Centro Storico 29-47, Chiesa di San Pietro Cappella Sansevero 34, 36-7 a Maiella 35 Bagni Regina 30-1, 35 drinking 44-6 Chiesa di Santa Giovanna 135 Capodimonte 65-71, food 41-4 Maria Assunta baroque art 17 123 68 itineraries 34-5 Barrel Arches 103 food 70-1 Chiesa di Santa shopping 46-7 Basilica di San shopping 71 Maria del sights 30-3, Lorenzo sights 66-7, 69-70 Carmine 49 Maggiore 35 38-40 transport 65 Chiesa di Santa transport 29 Teresa a Capri Town 107-17, walks 34-5 Chiaia 79 112-13 Sights 000 Certosa di San Chiesa di Sant’Eligio drinking 117 Map Pages 000 Giacomo 114 Maggiore 49 food 115-17 157

Chiesa di Santo drinks 12, 13 Grotta Azzurra 115 food 70-1 Stefano 114 driving, see car travel shopping 71 Chiesa e Chiostro Duomo (Naples) H sights 66-7, 69-70 di San Gregorio 32-3, 35 Herculaneum transport 65 Armeno 35, 40 Duomo (Sorrento) (Ercolano) 100-3, La Torretta di children, travel 136-7 102 Mergellina 91 with 19 highlights 6-9 language 152-3 Chiostro Grande 75 E hiking, see also walks lesbian travellers 150 Cimitero delle electricity 150 LGBT travellers 150 Fontanelle 69 Positano 127 climate 144 emergencies 150 Ravello 131 limoncello 12 clubs 13 entertainment, history 16 Lungomare 83 see individual holidays 150-1 Lupanare 96 cocktails 13 neighbourhoods, coffee 12, 13 horse riding 99 Entertainment M Complesso subindex hydrofoil travel 148 Monumentale di Ercole (Hercules) 53 MADRE 39-40 etiquette 149 I Marina Chiaiolella Maggiore 39 Il Vallone dei Mulino 119 Complesso F 135-6 Marina Corricella Monumentale di immigration 151 119 Santa Chiara 38 family travel 19 Isle of Capri 107-17, Marina Grande 134 cooking courses 18 fashion 15 112-13 48-9, 48 Naples 85 ferry travel 148 Index drinking 117 Mergellina 90-1, 90 Ravello 129 food 10-11, 15, see food 115-17 metro travel 146-7 Sorrento 137 also individual neighbourhoods, shopping 117 Minori 131 costs 22, 149-50 Eating subindex sights 108-11, 114 mobile phones 22, 151 crafts 15 Foro 93 transport 107 Molo Luise 91 credit cards 150 Franco Senesi 123 Isola di Vivara 119 money 22, 149, 150 Cristo velato 31 frescoes 31, 54 Italian language 152-3 mosaics 53 currency 22 funicular travel 147-8 itineraries 20-1 motorcycle travel Borgo Orefici 48-9, 148 D G 48 Mt Vesuvius 98-9 dangers, see safety Munthe, Axel 111 Galleria Borbonica Centro Storico Decumano Massimo 82 34-5, 35 Museo Archeologico 102 , Galleria Lia Rumma Chiaia 78-9, 78 Nazionale 52-5 design 15 83 Mercato 48-9, 48 55 desserts 10 Museo Bottega della Galleria Umberto I Mergellina 90-1, 90 Tarsia Lignea 135 disabilities, travellers 60 Positano 127 with 148-9 Museo Correale di Gallerie d’Italia – Ravello 131 discount cards Terranova 135 Palazzo Zevallos Santa Lucia 78-9, 149-50 Stigliano 59-60 Museo del Corallo 78 galleries 17 Camo 131 72-3, 72 drinking 12-13, see gardens 114, 129 Museo delle Arti also Sanitarie 40 gay travellers 150 individual L Museo di Giardini di Augusto neighbourhoods, Capodimonte 67 114 La Sanità 65-71, 68 Drinking subindex Museo Pignatelli 82 158

N Pompeii 92-7, 95 shopping 14-15, see Toledo Metro Port’Alba 35 also individual Station 60 Napoli Sotterranea neighbourhoods, Positano 122-7, 125 top sights 6-9 40-1 Shopping subindex Procida Island 118-19, Toro Farnese 53 nightlife 12-13 shrines 43 118 Torre-Museo 129 SITA buses 141 tourist information 151 O public holidays 150-1 Sorrento 121-41, tours 18 opening hours 149 Q 132-3 train travel 146-7 drinking 139-40 transport 23, 145-8 P Quartieri Spagnoli food 137-9 51-63, 58 shopping 140-1 palaces 17 drinking 62-3 V sights 134-7 Palazzo dello entertainment 63 vacations 150-1 Spagnolo 69-70 transport 121 food 61-2 Via Giordano 73 Palazzo Mannajuolo Spiaggia del Fornillo shopping 63 Via Partenope 79 79, 82 124 sights 52-7, 59-61 Via Scarlatti 73 Palazzo Murat 123 Spiaggia di Chiaia transport 51 119 Vico San Domenico Palazzo Reale 56-7 Spiaggia Grande 124 Maggiore 35 Palazzo Reale di R Villa Cimbrone 130 Capodimonte Villa Comunale 79, 66-7 Ravello 128-31, 130 T 83-4 Palazzo Sanfelice 70 Reggia di Caserta taxes 14 Villa Comunale Park Index Parco di 104-5 taxis 148 137 Capodimonte 67 Rocco, Gregorio Teatro Grande 97 Maria 43 Villa dei Misteri 93 Parco Nazionale del Teatro San Carlo 59 Vesuvio 99 Villa Jovis 109, 111 telephone services Villa Lysis 109 Parco Reale 105 S 22, 151 Villa Maria 79 passports 151 safety 151 Terme Femminili 103 Villa Rufolo 129 pasta 10 Salto di Tiberio 111 Terme Maschili 101 Piazza Bellini 35 Villa San Michele di Santa Lucia 77-89, Terme Stabiane 93-4 Axel Munthe 111 Piazza dei Martiri 79 , 78 80-1 Terra Murata 119 villas 17, 108-11 Piazza Duomo drinking 87-8 theft 151 visas 22, 151 130-1 entertainment 88 Thomas Dane Vomero 72-3, 72 Piazza Olmo 119 food 84-7 Gallery 83 Piazza Umberto I 114 shopping 88-9 Tiberius, Emperor 111 W Piazza Vanvitelli 73 sights 82-4 time 22 walks Piazzetta del Leone transport 77 tipping 150 91 Borgo Orefici 48-9, walks 78-9 Toffini Academy 85 pickpocketing 151 48 Santa Maria del toilets 151 Pio Monte della Centro Storico Castello Circuit Toledo 51-63, 58 Misericordia 38 34-5, 35 127 drinking 62-3 pizza 10, 11 Chiaia 78-9, 78 Scala 131 entertainment 63 planning 22-3 Mercato 48-9, 48 seafood 11 food 61-2 Mergellina 90-1, 90 Sede degli Augustali shopping 63 101 Positano 127 Sights 000 sights 52-7, 59-61 Sedile Dominova Ravello 131 Map Pages 000 transport 51 136 159

Santa Lucia 78-9, 78 La Campagnola 33 Trattoria Mangia e Centro di Musica Vomero 72-3, 72 La Cantinaccia del Bevi 43-4 Antica Pietà de’ Turchini 63 weather 144 Popolo 138 Trattoria 57 Music on the Rocks 123 websites 144 La Capannina 117 Vero GastroBar 42 Spazio Intolab 45 wine 13 La Conchiglia 119 La Pignasecca 60 Viva Lo Re 101 Zi’Ntonio 138-9 La Stanza del Gusto 7 5 Eating 53 Shopping Le Arcate 109 Anna Matuozzo 91 Ai Monti Lattari 60 6 Drinking L’Ebbrezza di Noè Asad Ventrella: Al Grottino 116 84-5 Al Barcadero 88 Contemporastudio Antica Cantina Lo Sfizio 109 Ba-Bar 87 88-9 Sepe 71 Martucci 105 Bar dal Cavaliere 119 Bottega 21 46, 140 Antica Osteria Da Next2 126 Bar Internazionale 127 Carthusia I Profumi di Tonino 85 ’O Sfizio 42 Barril 87 Capri 117 Antica Pizza Fritta Ceramiche Maria da Zia Esterina Officina del Mare 86 Bollicine 140 Grazia 124 Sorbillo 61-2 O’Puledrone 137 Cafè Latino 140 Da Costanzo 117 Antica Pizzeria e Osteria della Caffè dell’Epoca 44 Trattoria al ’22 61 Mattonella 61 Caffè Gambrinus 62 E. Marinella 79 AZZ! 138 Pasticceria Caffè Mexico 63 Fratelli D’Angelo di Donato 49 Babel 129 Mennella 85 Cantine Sociali 88

Kiphy 47 Index Casa Mele 126 Pasticceria D’Anton 139 Poppella 71 La Bottega di Brunella C’era Una Volta 127 Il Birraiuolo 62-3 Pescheria Mattiucci 124 Chalet Ciro Jamón 44 86 La Botteguccia de Mergellina 91 La Pergola 140 Pizzeria Da Franco Giovanni 124 Cibi Cotti 91 138 L’Antiquario 87 La Parissienne 117 Concettina Ai Tre Pizzeria Gino Sorbillo Libreria Berisio La Scarabattola Santi 70-1 41 45-6 46-7 Da Emilia 137 Pizzeria Starita 71 Palazzo Venezia Limonè 47 Da Ettore 84, 87 Napoli 45 President 93 Livio De Simone 89 Da Luisa 67 Shanti Art Musik Raffaele Buonacore MAC Ceramics 47 Da Salvatore 129 Bar 45 116 Mattana Design 89 Di Matteo 33 Spazio Nea 44 Ristorantino Mercatino di Dialetti 85 dell’Avvocato 86-7 Superfly 45 Antignano 73 Donna Romita 41 Salumeria 41 Syrenuse Bar 140 Mercato di Porta Donna Rosa 127 Scaturchio 57 Taverna Anema e Nolana 49 Core 117 È Divino 115-16 Serafino 43 Omega 71 Ventimetriquadri 73 Friggitoria Vomero 75 Sfogliatella Mary Piazzetta Orefici 49 Gay-Odin 43 61 Riot Laundry Bar 73 3Entertainment Gelateria David 137 Soul & Fish 138 Scriptura 47 Il Geranio 115 Tandem 41 Associazione Scarlatti Stinga 141 Inn Bufalito 139 Trattoria Castel 88 Talarico 63 La Cambusa 126 dell’Ovo 86 Bourbon Street 63 Terrerosse 141 160 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Our Writers

Cristian Bonetto Cristian has contributed to more than 30 Lonely Plan- et guides to date, including New York City, Italy, Venice & the Veneto, Naples & the Amalfi Coast, Denmark, Copenhagen, Sweden and Singapore. Lonely Planet work aside, his musings on travel, food, culture and design appear in numerous publications around the world, including The Telegraph (UK) and Corriere del Mezzogiorno (Italy). When not on the road, you’ll find the reformed playwright and TV scriptwriter slurping espresso in his beloved hometown, Melbourne.

Brendan Sainsbury

Our WritersOur Born and raised in the UK in a town that never merits a mention in any guidebook (Andover, Hampshire), Brendan spent the holidays of his youth caravanning in the English Lake District and didn’t leave Blighty until he was 19. Making up for lost time, he’s since squeezed 70 countries into a sometimes precarious existence as a writer and professional vagabond. In the last 11 years, he has written more than 40 books for Lonely Planet about places ranging from from Castro’s Cuba to the canyons of Peru.

Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing 1st edition – Apr 2019 this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 78868 116 2 accuracy or completeness of its content and, © Lonely Planet 2019 Photographs © as indicated 2019 to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 all liability arising from its use. Printed in Malaysia All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other coun- tries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.