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1 The Best of Maryland & Delaware Maryland and Delaware are often overshadowed by their neighbors, including the nation’s capital. But thanks to the always-dazzling Chesapeake Bay, ocean beaches, and gently rolling mountains, these two states offer plenty of outdoor charms. The cities of Baltimore, Maryland, and Wilmington, Delaware, are filled with intriguing museums, sophisticated restaurants, and delightful waterfronts that make for a romantic summer evening stroll. Add charming small towns—including Maryland’s capital, Annapolis, and Delaware’s capital, Dover—friendly people, and a wealth of historic sites, and you’ve got two states worth a visit whether you have a day, a weekend, or a whole week. These two states have been shaped by history, from the Colonial days to the Revolu- tionary and Civil wars; by industry, from the commercial fisheries of ocean and bay to high-tech banking and information technology; and even by sports—what would NAS- CAR do without Dover twice a year? And what Baltimoreans don’t keep up-to-date with their beloved Orioles or stop whatever they’re doing for the Preakness? Every corner of Maryland offers something for those who look. Get off I-95 and you’ll find scenic Havre de Grace. Wander through the Eastern Shore for a tableful of hot steamed crabs. Park the car outside Frederick, and you’ll find the leafy glens that sur- round Cunningham Falls. And don’t be fooled by Delaware’s small size. Sure, it’s got beaches and NASCAR, but it also has mansions tucked in the Brandywine Valley, good food and wine on quiet Wilmington nights, and the town of Lewes—which is so charming, you might forget the ocean is just a short walk across a bridge. Marylanders and Delawareans look toward the future but remember where they’ve been, too. They remember their fallen friends with monuments, battlefields, and aging forts that recall battles in 1776, 1812, 1917, and 1945. You can see places where George Washington stood, where brothers died, and where slaves ran for freedom. You can get a glimpse of how people lived when these states were just small colonies, or when the Golden Age made industrialists millionaires. Whether you visit Maryland and Delaware while on your way to someplace else or because you’reCOPYRIGHTED drawn to their charm and friendliness, MATERIAL you won’t be disappointed. 1 FROMMER’S FAVORITE MARYLAND & DELAWARE EXPERIENCES • Raising the Star-Spangled Banner at flag each day. The nooks and crannies Fort McHenry (Baltimore, Md.): The and views keep young ones interested. park rangers ask visitors to help with Outside the fort, the sprawling water- the raising and lowering of the huge front park is perfect for families and picnics. See p. 78. 004_582480-ch01.indd4_582480-ch01.indd 1 44/15/10/15/10 112:322:32 PPMM 2 • Attending the Preakness (Baltimore, best team in the world (the Orioles, of Md.): If you’re young and want some course!). The many minor league teams serious partying, check out the infield. are also fun, and more affordable. See If you actually want to see the second “The Best Baseball in Maryland,” p. 8. jewel in the Triple Crown, head for the • Walking through 4 Centuries (Annap- grandstand. The race is held the third olis, Md.): Sailors, statesmen, house- Saturday in May at Pimlico Race wives, and slaves have trod the brick Course (& 410/542-9400). Order sidewalks of Maryland’s capital city grandstand tickets up to a year in since Colonial days. Visit today to see advance. Infield tickets are available up how the city has preserved its memories to the week before and are sold at area at the State House and Paca House, gas stations. See p. 91. while advancing into the modern age at • Rafting the Yough: The Youghiogheny the U.S. Naval Academy and on the (generally just called the “Yock”) is water. See chapter 6. Maryland’s great white-water river. Its • Going “Downy Ocean”: Head for the churning waters race through class III/ crowded beaches of Ocean City, Mary- IV rapids, with such names as Gap land (with all those restaurants, shops, Falls, Bastard, Triple Drop, Meatcleaver, and golf courses), or to the quiet public Lost and Found, and Backbender. The beaches of Rehoboth or Bethany, Dela- THE BEST OF MARYLAND & DELAWARE & MARYLAND OF BEST THE water levels are controlled by dam ware. Both have their charms. The sand 1 release, so the river can be ridden is white and clean; the waves can be almost year-round. See chapter 10. gentle or furious (watch for the red • Kayaking among the Cypress Trees warning flags). The sand crabs are used (southern Delaware): A paddle on an to being dug up, and the sea gulls will early fall day in the cypress swamp of keep an eye on your snacks. (Don’t give Trap Pond is a peaceful, exhilarating in and feed them—it can be pretty way to get some exercise. The changing scary.) See chapter 11. leaves are gorgeous, the water is still • Bicycling at the Delaware Shore: Grab warm, and most bugs are gone. Coastal a helmet and head onto Route 1 for a Kayak offers tours. See chapter 11. ride along flat road by the sea. Or, bet- • Going to a Baseball Game: Maryland ter yet, ride between Rehoboth and THE BEST LODGING BETS LODGING BEST THE has baseball’s most beautiful stadium— Lewes on the Junction and Breakwater Oriole Park at Camden Yards—and the Trail. See p. 257. 2 THE BEST LODGING BETS • Hyatt Regency Baltimore (Baltimore, Georgian-style house was originally the Md.; & 410/528-1234): If you’re plan- home of Thomas Jefferson’s physician ning a trip to Baltimore, the Hyatt’s in the 1770s. A three-course breakfast is location and its spiffy new decor make served on fine china in the cranberry- it a must. Staff here, as well as the red dining room. Selling points include incomparable view and the Inner Har- Jacuzzis, a room with its own deck, and bor location, make this more than “just experienced, welcoming hosts. See a Hyatt.” See p. 58. p. 110. • The Annapolis Inn (Annapolis, Md.; • The Tilghman Island Inn (Tilghman, & 410/295-5200): This sumptuous Md.; & 800/866-2141): Waterfront 004_582480-ch01.indd4_582480-ch01.indd 2 44/15/10/15/10 112:322:32 PPMM 004_582480-ch01.indd 3 4 _ 5 8 2 4 8 0 - c h 0 1 0 20 mi PPENNSYLVANIAE N N S Y L V A N I A CChesterhester . i S n N S u . d 220 1 e R GGettysburgettysburg sq ar d HHanoveranover 0 20 km 83 u aw e l N h e WWilmingtonilmington D 3 a HHancockancock n n NNewarkewark 68 I a TTaneytownaneytown R NNewew CCastleastle 219 FFrostburgrostburg CCumberlandumberland HHagerstownagerstown . 95 A EElktonlkton HHalfwayalfway TThurmonthurmont WWestminsterestminster NNEWE W JJERSEYE R S E Y 522 HHavreavre ddee GGracerace T MMARYLANDA R Y L A N D CChesapeakehesapeake CCityity BBelel AAirir AAberdeenberdeen WWalkersvillealkersville 30 MMiddletowniddletown VVinelandineland N MMartinsburgartinsburg . Liberty Res. OOaklandakland FFrederickrederick R EEdgewooddgewood EEldersburgldersburg TTowsonowson y PParkvillearkville D . U 81 c PPikesvilleikesville R a c 50 c 70 a o WWoodlawnoodlawn m n BALTIMOREBALTIMORE SSmyrnamyrna o . HHarpersarpers FFerryerry Po o CCatonsvilleatonsville 301 t O to E o R ma . P c . c R M 270 EEllicottllicott CCityity DDundalkundalk r a R . 695 CChestertownhestertown B m n N o M o WWinchesterinchester CColumbiaolumbia t GGermantownermantown L p C DDoverover o a S OOlneylney GGlenlen BurnieBurnie WESTW E S T P c . a 340 GGaithersburgaithersburg r C AAspenspen HHillill SSevernevern e Delaware Bay B N LLeesburgeesburg H o RRockvilleockville h A VIRGINIAV I R G I N I A S WWheatonheaton a I 97 k k SSilverilver SSpringpring c n N PPotomacotomac 495 E u a PPetersburgetersburg t SStevensvilletevensville T 13 A 50 BBowieowie p W BBethesdaethesda D.C.D.C. AAnnapolisnnapolis o RRestoneston h A FFrontront RRoyaloyal S MMilfordilford T 15 WWASHINGTONASHINGTON C DDentonenton I AArlingtonrlington . A 50 R 66 FFairfaxairfax SSuitlanduitland A h N AAlexandrialexandria H oa OOxonxon HHillill LLewesewes d SSt.t. MMichaelsP ichaels EEastonaston n RRehobothehoboth BBeacheach a U P R n C e MManassasanassas a E h 211 t S O WWoodbridgeoodbridge u SSeafordeaford GGeorgetowneorgetown x A WWaldorfaldorf e E n 9 A . t R SSt.t. CCharlesharles R Maryland &Delaware M a R e L p k 5 . CCambridgeambridge o BBethanyethany BBeacheach id 4 K ic a LLaa PPlatalata t A n an 113 R N HHarrisonburgarrisonburg CCalvertalvEert BBeacheach . GGoldenolden BBeacheach P E OOceancean PPinesines R. ock ann SSalisburyalisbury P G ah OOceancean CCityity pp FFredericksburgredericksburg CCaliforniaalifornia Ra A D B P LLexingtonexington ParkPark I VIRGINIAV I R G I N I A oto e m A k y ac R. PPrincessrincess AAnnenne o a m B SStauntontaunton o R 29 oc e Y P u L. Anna 301 g WWaynesboroa ynesboro a PPocomokeocomoke CCityity te CCharlottesvilleharlottesville o SStuartstuarts DDraftraft 33 P 17 Smith I. c am 95 in Assateague I. E u h nk C 81 ey TTappahannockappahannock 360 U 64 13 44/15/10 12:32PM / 1 L ATLANTIC 5 / 1 B 0 OCEAN 1 2 THE BEST OF MARYLAND & DELAWARE & MARYLAND OF BEST THE : BETS LODGING BEST THE 1 3 3 2 P M 4 rooms take full advantage of the inn’s • The Addy Sea Bed & Breakfast (Beth- setting on Knapps Narrows on the East- any Beach, Del.; & 800/418-6764): In ern Shore. The bedrooms are spacious a resort filled with condos and rental and comfy, and the welcome is warm. houses, this B&B offers cozy charm sur- See p.