The West Leon County Heritage Trail

AIN ROADS & M CROSS ROADS * * * * * This publication has been prepared under the auspices of the John G. Riley Center/Museum for African American History & Culture, Tallahassee, – Althemese Barnes, Executive Director. Funding was obtained through a Leon County Board of Commissioners, Certified, Local Government Grant from the Bureau of Historic Preservation, Division of Historical Resources, Florida Department of State. However, the contents and opinions do not necessarily reflect the views and opinions of Leon County or the Florida Department of State, nor does the mention of trade names or commercial products constitute endorsement or recommendation by Leon County or the Florida Department of State.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise for any other purpose without prior written permission from the John G. Riley Center/Museum, the Florida Department of State and Leon County government.

We gratefully acknowledge the support and assistance of Dr. Anthony Dixon - Florida A&M University, Julianne Hare - Rabbit’s Den Productions (author), Don Lanham - Leon County, Jerry Lee – Mission San Luis, and Ross Morrell - Ross Morrell & Associates.

COVER PHOTO – The C. H. Corn Hydroelectric Plant, Leon County, FL circa 1913. Courtesy of the Florida State Archives Photographic Collection.

INSIDE COVER PHOTO - A West Leon County sharecropper plows his field with the help of an ox. Courtesy of the Florida State Archives Photographic Collection. Legend Tour 1 N Tour 2 Tour 3

Orchard Pond Rd. PLEASE DO NOT TRESPASS ON To Havana PRIVATE PROPERTY

32 Lake Jackson 31 30

29

N. Monroe St. Crowder Gadsden COUNTY Rd. Indian 28 Mound Rd. Capital Circle N.W. Capital Circle To Quincy Lake Ella Geddie Rd. Tharpe St. 27

23 Ocala Rd.

24 22 7th Ave. 25 Tennessee St. 26 Bethel Church 21 8 4 6 Blountstown Hwy./ Rd. 7 2 Scouting Nature’s Bounty... 11 Jackson Bluff Rd. 5 Forbes Purchase Line 10 9 Williams Landing Rd. 1 Jack Vause Rd. State Hwy. 20 12 14 13 Tallahassee 15 Joe Thomas Rd. Missions to Megawatts... Ben Stoutamire Rd. 17 Harvey CreekFt. Braden 3 Silver U.S. Hwy. 90 Luther Hall Rd. Lake 16 18 To Hosford 20 Apalachicola Agriculture to Arrowheads... 19 Bloxham National Leon COUNTY U.S. Hwy. 27/Old Bainbridge Smith Creek Hwy. Forest Road Introduction

Leon County has always treasured its past and has done an amazing job of preserving the many historical treasures found among its rolling hills. From the Indian Mounds of Lake Jackson to the re-constructed and interpreted remains of the Spanish occupation at the San Luis Mission, visitors can experience what it must have been like to live here many, many years ago.

We celebrate the natural beauty of our surroundings and are ever mindful of the future of our forests and waterways. The western edge of the Red Hills of Florida offers some of America’s best boating and fishing areas, but they are also home to some of America’s most unique technological institutes. Leon County is a leader in exploring alternative energy production and practical applications for magnetic power.

This booklet describes three tours that will introduce you to some of Leon County’s most significant historical treasures – as well as some of the cutting edge technology of today. Each route will take from one to six hours to travel – depending on how many stops you choose to make and how long you linger to explore. Each journey connects to another and we encourage you to discover them all.

1 Tour Information

Sites of interest are each numbered and identified by one of four symbols. Written directions appear throughout the text and a map is included at the end of this publication. A supplement of related oral histories may be obtained from the John G. Riley Center/Museum for African American History & Culture at 419 East Jefferson Street, Tallahassee, Florida or by calling 850-681-7881. Visit their web site at www.rileymuseum.org.

Drive Through: Leon County neighborhoods were often named after the plantations that dotted the area during ante bellum times. After the Civil War, newly formed communities adopted names that honored centers of worship or well-known property owners. Residents rarely said they came from Tallahassee or Leon County – they said they came from places like Lake Jackson, Bloxham, Lake Bradford and Ft. Braden. These “neighborhoods” covered large geographical areas whose borders are not easily defined. Some are included here because the ties to these communities are strong and continue to the present day.

Windshield: These sites are significant, but structures may be in a restricted location or are inaccessible. You may drive past – or pause – at a windshield site, but please remain in your vehicle.

Stop: Feel free to park and take a leisurely walk around the area. Remember to practice good visitor manners.

Gone But Not Forgotten: These sites include places where historical events occurred, or where significant structures once stood. Both played a key role in the development of our county and the memory of them is an important part of our blended history.

Be A Thoughtful Visitor

Each of the three tours outlined here include burial grounds and sensitive historical sites. Please do not walk through grave sites and take care not to drive over, park on, or disturb grassy areas. Avoid scheduling your visit at times when worship services may be taking place. Stash your trash in receptacles provided or take it with you.

2 Scouting Nature’s Bounty ... State Hwy. 20

Some of Leon County’s most beautiful and distinctive water features are located on the western side of Leon County. Visitors can fish, swim, go boating, or marvel at the unusual sink holes that are unique to the North Central Florida area. Take your time to explore every shaded nook and gravel road. Watch out for the wildlife.

Tour # 1 begins at the intersection of Capital Circle S.W. and State Hwy. 20 (also known as Pensacola Street in town and Blountstown Hwy. outside the city limits). Head out in a westerly direction. You will reach the first site in approximately .5 miles. It is on the left- hand side of the road.

# 1) Tiny Register’s Hwy. 20 BBQ restaurant (now closed) was always a pretty unpretentious place to eat, but the Register name has been associated with quality meats since they opened Tiny’s Smokehouse on Tharpe St. back in the 1950s. “Tiny” is a full-figured fellow named Wayne who decided to semi-retire in 2007. New owners are moving in, but whether they can match Tiny’s great food and fast, friendly service remains to be seen. Who knows if they will preserve the distinctive sign that advertised you could “Dine in and Pig Out”? At least the building will stay as a reminder of happy times when you were as likely to run into a “local” as you were to encounter a famous celebrity. Burt Reynolds was among Register’s customers. You can still enjoy trademark Register BBQ in Woodville where Wayne’s brother is open for business. Rumor has it that Tiny will continue to make his trademark sausage and just might cater an event or two.

Continue west on State Hwy. 20. Drive approximately 2 miles. The next tour stop is on the right.

# 2) The Country Feed Store and Garden Supply has just about everything connected with the out-of-doors. It is all packed into a crowded acre or two and a cluster of buildings that have been added to over the years. The store was established some 25 years ago and gets bigger and better every year. Shoppers can find everything from gate posts to eclectic plant hangers made from old tires. There are growing things, fertilizer, equine tack, and stuff for your hunting dogs – not to mention live birds and an eclectic antique shop named Yardbird Alley. They have animals to look at and animals to buy. Kids will love Felix the “store” cat and the emu out back. Be sure to meet Lucy the wonder dog. People wonder why she growls and wags her tail at the same time, but remember, she is a reflection of her surroundings – a little confusing, but very friendly!

3 Drive approximately 5 miles. Turn left (south) on Silver Lake Rd. Drive approximately 2 miles. Make another left turn at the sign to Silver Lake Recreation Area.

# 3) Silver Lake is a playground for those who enjoy fresh water swimming, nature trails, and quiet boating. During the days of Jim Crow laws and segregation, spring-fed Silver Lake was one of the few local areas where African Americans were “allowed” to swim. There is a boat ramp, but anything larger than a trolling motor is prohibited. Canoes, kayaks, and paddle boats are welcome. There are plenty of picnic tables and grills to accommodate families and large groups. Three covered picnic shelters are also available on a first- come basis. One on-site historic bathhouse was built by the Civilian Conservation Corps, but Silver Lake also has modern facilities that include flush toilets and hot showers. As an added bonus, the area is relatively level and easily accessible to wheelchairs. Overnight camping is prohibited and alcoholic beverages are forbidden. There is a day use fee of $3.00 per day, per vehicle. Frequent visitors may purchase an unlimited pass for $40.00 that will also get you into all other National Forests in the state. For more information, call 850-926-3561.

Turn right as you exit the recreation area and return to Hwy. 20. Turn left (west). The land to your right (north) is part of the Lake Talquin State Forest.

# 4) Several areas in the Lake Talquin State Forest have been designated as Longleaf Pine / Wiregrass restoration areas. To learn more about how preservation efforts are bringing stands of Longleaf Pine back to Florida and other states in the southeastern , you may want to visit the Tall Timbers Research Station located in northern Leon County. Before early European settlement, natural fires caused by lighting kept volatile underbrush to a minimum. Today, Tall Timber’s efforts to support prescribed, controlled burns have been adopted in many areas of the southeast and western United States. The approach has proven to be an effective process to encourage new timber growth. Forest management techniques also help to address problems caused by man encroaching on natural areas. Construction of roads, new homes, and commercial development retards natural pollination and re-routes the flow of rainwater. You can recognize Longleaf Pine by its distinctive, straight trunk and long, slender needles.

4 HISTORICal FACT: Experts estimate that longleaf pine once covered almost 60 million acres in the American Southeast. Today, less than 3 million acres of longleaf remain. The pine tree was especially prized for its pine sap – widely used in the ship-building industry. Pine was, and still is, harvested for building materials.

# 5) The Ebenezer Leon Baptist (Southern) Church currently has 150 members – a number that has changed along with its parent organization. The first Baptist minister associated with Florida arrived in 1812 – even before it was an American Territory. In 1821, the small Baptist Church at Pigeon Creek in Nassau County was among the first frontier churches to welcome a slave into the congregation. The denomination has steadily grown in membership ever since.

HISTORICal FACT: Approximately 1.5 miles west of the intersection of Hwy. 20 and Silver Lake Rd., travelers cross one of the boundary lines of the Forbes Purchase – one of the most amazing land transactions in early American history. William Panton, Thomas Forbes and John Leslie were loyalists. During the American Revolution, they fled to then British-held Florida and set up a trading company to do business with the Indians. When England lost Florida to Spain in 1783, the men negotiated a business agreement with the Spanish. Creek Indians subsequently traded over a million acres to the firm to clear debts, secure cash, and purchase more supplies. When Florida was secured by the Americans, the U.S. Congress nullified the land deal. Forbes enlisted the help of American investors and challenged the company’s right to the property in court. The issue was resolved in their favor in 1835 and title was granted in the name of the Apalachicola Land Company.

The next tour stop is approximately 3 miles west on Hwy. 20. The entrance is on the right.

# 6) The Lake Talquin State Forest Ft. Braden Trail is one of nine main tracts managed by the Florida Division of Forestry in the Talquin State Forest and is open for both day use and camping. The daily entry fee is $1.00 and an annual, 5 unlimited access pass can be purchased for just $30.00. Fees help to maintain the facilities. Equestrians, hikers and cyclists are welcome in designated areas (proof of a current, negative Coggins test is required for all horses). The region varies in topography including: sandhills, flatwoods, rolling uplands, swamps and hardwood forests. Native trees include water oak; sweet gum; longleaf, loblolly, and slash pine; hickory; red maple; bald cypress; laurel and live oak; as well as swamp tupelo and sweet bay. In the spring, the forest is filled with flowering Dogwood, redbud, and wisteria. Wildflowers are abundant. This is also a popular area for birders. Blue Heron, Egrets, and the have all been observed in the area, along with dozens of other winged creatures. Animal life is abundant and includes: white-tailed deer, bobcat, coyote, fox, several varieties of squirrel and the gopher tortoise. More information can be found at: http://www.fl-dof.com/state_forests/lake_talquin.html or call the Division of Forestry at: 850-488-1871.

Stop # 7 will be on your right.

# 7) The Ft. Braden Community Park provides a place for local residents to play tennis and soccer. Playground equipment is available for the younger set. This is a good place to stop and stretch your legs and take advantage of the public restrooms.

HISTORICal FACT: Fort Braden was established alongside the Ochlockonee River during the Second Seminole War and was first occupied in December of 1839. The fort was named in honor of Virginia Ward Braden – wife of prominent early settler and planter Dr. Joseph Braden. Joseph and his brother Hector were from Virginia, but played important roles in the development of Florida. Hector was an attorney, served as a Director for the Tallahassee Union Bank and was a planter and slaveholder. He was lost at sea in a hurricane in 1846. Fort Braden was the site of one significant conflict with the Indians in July of 1840 which resulted in the deaths of two soldiers from Florida’s 2nd Infantry. The fort itself was abandoned in the summer of 1842. The tiny farming community surrounding the fort once claimed just eight households. The town had one Methodist and one Baptist Church. A post office was open here from 1882 to 1885. After that, mail was delivered through the Gadsden County town of Midway. E.C. Grissette was the local blacksmith and James Harvey operated a local grist and gin mill while acting as the town’s physician.

6 Return to Hwy. 20 and proceed west approximately 1 mile. Turn right on Williams Landing Rd.

# 8) It seems as if Hwy. 20 is a thoroughfare leading from one boat landing to another, but each one is unique in its own way. Williams Landing offers a tent campground, secluded picnic spots, public restrooms and a fish- cleaning station. The area is staffed for additional convenience and security.

Re-trace your route back to Hwy. 20 and turn right (west). The next stop is on your left (south) – about one mile away.

# 9) The Ft. Braden Cemetery was established in 1865. One well-known “resident” of the cemetery is 2nd Lt. Hugh Black – a veteran of both the 3rd Seminole and Civil Wars. He married Mary Ann Harvey in 1860. Black was active in governmental affairs. He variously served as the Liberty County Tax Assessor, a Legislative Clerk and as a Leon County commissioner. Lt. Black died in 1915 at age 80.

As you leave the cemetery, turn left (west) on Hwy. 20. Make a right (north) turn on Jack Vause Rd. The road here is graded clay, but is well-maintained. You will pass an eclectic cluster of houses, an old store, and some vintage vehicles that have been repurposed as residences. In a short distance, make a left (west) turn into the park.

# 10) The River Bluff State Picnic Site is one of the prettiest day-use areas on Lake Talquin. There is a large pavilion that can be reserved for special functions that is covered, filled with picnic tables, and equipped with an over-sized BBQ grill. A nearby restroom is large and open. A significant feature is a lake-side boardwalk that offers exceptional views of the lake and dock-side fishing. If you can, take 45 minutes to enjoy the self-guided nature trail tour that winds through the forest. The area has ample parking and is accessible. Pets are allowed on 6-foot, hand-held leashes. For more information, or to reserve the pavilion, call 850-922-6007.

Return to the park entrance and make a left (north) turn back on to Jack Vause Rd.

7 # 11) Lake Talquin State Park’s Jack Vause Landing opens at 8:00 a.m. and closes at sunset. These waters are home to largemouth bass, bream, shellcracker, and speckled perch. This landing is often referred to as the gateway or “main” recreation site on the south side of Lake Talquin.

Retrace your route back to Hwy. 20. Turn right (west). The next stop will be on your left (south) at the intersection of Joe Thomas E. Rd.

# 12) The Ft. Braden Library is part of the Leon County library system. In addition to the collections held here, patrons can order books from the downtown branch for delivery by the popular Book Mobile. The facility opens at 10:00 a.m. Monday through Saturday. Closing hours are 6:00 p.m. on Monday, 8:00 p.m. Tuesday through Friday and 4:00 p.m. on Saturday.

Return to Hwy. 20 and turn left (west). Your next stop is less than 1 mile away.

# 13) The Old Ft. Braden School is the most recognizable, historic building in the community. Historians are uncertain when the first school house was built in Fort Braden. Leon County tax collection records refer to payments being collected there in 1847. There is no further mention of the facility until 1871 when it was identified as County School #12. M.S. Atkins was listed as the teacher. By 1875, A.F. Fairbanks was teaching and the county had changed Fort Braden’s number to 46. There is some speculation that there were two schools at the time – one for white children and the other for children of color. Records indicate a political rally was held at “Black’s School House” in 1878. The reference was not a racial one. Lt. Hugh Black contributed to the school’s construction and/or maintenance and he felt free to use it for personal purposes. This specific building was constructed in 1928 and closed in 1993, but it is still in use as a community center and can be rented for private events. Contact Jan Taylor at 850-606-1470 for an inside tour and/or more information.

8 # 14) The Ft. Braden Pentecostal Holiness Church was established in 1925. In 1958, the church was moved three miles west of its original site. The building you see today was completed in 1971. Leon County Commissioner Jane Sauls has served as its Secretary since 1971. Services are conducted each Sunday under the direction of Pastor Jake Till.

Turn right (north) on Luther Hall Rd. – one mile west of Harvey Creek Bridge.

# 15) Luther Hall Landing offers a paved boat ramp, ample parking, a picnic area, and public restrooms. Visitors can tent camp, fish, hunt, and go boating at this landing. Restrooms are available.

Return to Hwy. 20 and turn right (west). Cross over Freeman Creek – a tributary of the Ochlocknee River. Once polluted, it has been cleaned up through community and state efforts.

# 16) The Lake Talquin Baptist Church conducts services on Sunday mornings and evenings. Baptisms are held in the lake and are often followed by a picnic lunch on the grounds. When Pastor Milton Harrington baptized nine new members in April 2007, nearby boaters and fishermen respectfully stopped all activity and church members and visitors watched from the shoreline. The event was large enough that most attendees parked at a nearby community ball field and took shuttle vans to the lake.

Turn right (north) on Ben Stoutamire Rd. Bear left to reach the lake.

# 17) Ben Stoutamire Landing was named after a bit of a mystery man. The Stoutamire family settled in the area as early as the 1830s, but a search of county records and census data did not reveal who Ben was. The landing offers a wide range of facilities, including a children’s playground, an unimproved boat ramp, a dock, and restrooms. Fishing, hunting and boating are all allowed. New housing is being built in the area. Please be respectful of both public and private boundaries.

9 Retrace your route back to Hwy. 20 and turn right (west). Make a right-hand turn on Wainright Rd. The Jackson Bluff Community Church and Cemetery is on your immediate left. You may stop at this unnumbered location.

The Jackson Bluff Community Church. A small cemetery sits to the west of the building.

# 18) The Bloxham Community takes its name from the 1,400 acre plantation owned by planter, politician, and slaveholder, William D. Bloxham. There is no traditional, “downtown” area to mark its location today, but Bloxham does appear as a town on early maps.

HISTORICal FACT: William Dunnington Bloxham was Florida’s first native-born governor, but he was educated at the College of William and Mary in Virginia where he earned his law degree in 1855. Rather than practice law, he followed his father’s path as a planter. He was a slave-holder and had a strong interest in politics. He successfully ran for office in the Florida House of Representatives in 1861. At the outbreak of the Civil War, he formed an infantry company in Leon County and commanded the unit throughout the conflict. He was a leader in the Democratic Party and was inaugurated as Governor in 1881. He is credited with saving the state from bankruptcy by selling off 4 million acres of land in the for the sum of $1 million dollars. This action stimulated development in the southern portion of the state. Bloxham temporarily retired from politics, but accepted public office again as the state’s comptroller in 1890 and was re-elected governor in 1897. William died in Tallahassee in 1911 at age 75.

Return to Hwy. 20 and turn right (west). Turn left (south) on Smith Creek Hwy. The next tour reference is off the main road, in the wooded area to your left (east).

# 19) John Wallace – an ex-slave and former Union soldier who settled in Leon County after the Civil War – was the first known teacher at the Bloxham’s School that was built on plantation property some time around 1866. Wallace later stood for election in the State House of Representatives. In 1868 he became embroiled in a controversy over whether or not teachers could hold political office. Documents would indicate he was removed as a teacher, but he appealed and the state ultimately ruled in his favor. He was

10 elected to the House for the 1871-1874 terms and the Florida Senate from 1875 to 1881. At one point, he also held the position of Leon County Constable. Bloxham’s School was later referred to as Mt. Zion School #66. The building served the community in many ways. Worship services were conducted there on Sunday. Locals also called it the Dam School because of its proximity to the Lake Talquin Dam. A visitor to the school in the 1930s recorded that Mt. Zion School had one teacher and 17 students in attendance. After the school closed, the building continued to be used as a church. Today, its remnants are located on private property.

Turn around at Perry Green Lane (on your left, about 1-2 miles south) by looping around the mailboxes and return to Hwy. 20. Turn left (west) at the intersection.

HISTORICal FACT: The Jackson Bluff Dam was constructed on the Ochlockonee River in 1927 to provide hydroelectric power to Tallahassee and the surrounding area. The water restrained by the dam formed beautiful Lake Talquin – so named because it is located half way between the cities of Tallahassee and Quincy. In 1971, the Florida Power Corporation donated almost 20,000 acres of uplands and 10,000 acres of lake bottom to the state and the Lake Talquin State Recreation Area was born. With the exception of the path of the old river channel, the 14-mile lake is relatively shallow. The abundance of dead trees and stumps that lie just below the lake’s surface offer a rich habitat for fish of several varieties.

The next tour stop is located on the right (north) side of the highway. The facility is gated off, but tours can be arranged through the city’s utility department by calling 891-4968. Feel free to pull into the driveway.

# 20) The C.H. Corn Hydroelectric Station is one of only two water-powered plants in the state of Florida. The facility was built in 1929 by the West Florida Power Company (later known as the Florida Power Corporation) who operated it until 1970. The plant was abandoned and subsequently turned over to the Florida Department of Natural Resources. In 1981, the city of Tallahassee received a federal grant to refurbish the plant and the Talquin Dam as a demonstration project. The endeavor was successful. By 1985, C.H. Corn was fully operational and has been producing renewable power ever since. 11 You may continue west and cross the bridge – and county line – to get a view of the dam and the C.H. Corn Hydroelectric plant. You may park near the river landing on the far side of the bridge and walk back via the wide bridge shoulder, but be cautious of traffic. To return to Tallahassee, turn left (east) on Hwy. 20 as you leave the main entrance to the hydroelectric station.

12 Missions to Megawatts ... U.S. Hwy. 90

The Mission San Luis de Talimali is one of the most significant historical sites in America. Its habitation pre-dates the settlements established in Jamestown, Virginia and in Plymouth, Massachusetts. Long before the Pilgrims were reportedly enjoying corn provided by the Wampanog Indians, Spanish soldiers, along with members of the Order of Friars Minor (Franciscan missionaries) were living side by side with the Apalachee.

If science is your passion, you will find it on this tour at the National Magnetic Laboratory or you can watch electric power being generated at the Arvah B. Hopkins Generating Plant.

Tour # 2 begins on U.S. Hwy. 90 (also known as Tennessee Street in the city) at the intersection of Ocala Road. Head due west on Hwy. 90. Your first stop will be on the right (north) side.

# 21) Mission San Luis is an outdoor museum that interprets daily life at a 17th-century Spanish mission. The Mission, a National Historic Landmark, was one of dozens that stretched from St. Augustine to Jackson County to the west. From 1656 to 1704 this site served as the administrative, religious, and military capital of western Florida. It was home to more than 1500 Apalachee Indians and the largest contingent of European settlers outside of St. Augustine. A deputy governor, one of the most important Apalachee chiefs, a permanent garrison of soldiers, and a large number of Spanish civilians resided here. In the 1690s, a strong fortification, El Castillo de San Luis, was constructed as a buffer against British incursions into Florida. Mission San Luis was, however, abandoned in 1704 in the face of repeated threats by the British and their Creek Indian allies.

During the early American period, the property functioned as a plantation owned by the Randolph family. At the turn of the 20th century, Emile DuBois operated a vineyard and winery here. The land was eventually transferred in the 1930s to the Messer family who lived here until the property, containing the core of the mission complex, was sold to the state in 1983. Since then, over two decades of archaeological and historical research has been used to recreate the Mission.

Many of the most important structures have been reconstructed, including the church and friary, the council house, and the fort. Costumed interpreters inform and entertain visitors with stories about the struggles of life on a frontier mission. A visitor center orients guests with displays of artifacts and information on the research that has guided the project.

13 Mission San Luis is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. The site is closed on Thanksgiving and Christmas Day. For information about tours or special events, please call 850-487-3711 or visit our website at www.missionsanluis.org.

As you leave the mission grounds, exit right (west) on to Hwy. 90. Drive approximately 3.5 miles to Bethel Church Rd. Turn left (south). Your next stop will be on your right, in approximately one quarter mile.

# 22) The Bethel United Methodist Church and cemetery has been a part of the community since 1834 when local residents attended a camp meeting on the banks of nearby Bethel Pond. In the beginning, members met at each other’s homes. The earliest “fixed” structure was a simple brush arbor. Later, services were held in a small log schoolhouse that was located about a mile north of the present building. In 1847, Joseph and Thirza Hale deeded two acres of land to the Methodist Episcopal Church with the condition that the religious group build a meeting house at its center. It was a small frame building with wooden shutters. The present building was constructed by the congregation in 1909. Originally, it was roofed with wooden shingles. Many of the windows are original to that period and reflect the imperfections of turn-of-the-century glass.The interior of the church was not completed until 1947, but it contains several, historically significant items such as a circa 1845 pulpit and a communion table that was used at Tallahassee’s Trinity Church during the 1800s. A narthex was added in 1970 and the classic steeple was installed in 1972.

Retrace your route back to Hwy. 90 and turn left (west). Turn left (south) on Geddie Rd. Your next tour location is located on the corner to your right.

# 23) The Ole Gospel Tabernacle Church sign advertises that they host “gospel sings” every Friday night. The small stage that sits at the back of the property would attest to that fact. The building itself seems to reflect many changes over the years. The basic structure appears to look like many of the schools and churches that were built in the early 1900s. No doubt, the cinder block entrance was added later.

The main entrance to the Geddie Cemetery is located on the right (west) side of Geddie Rd., but it can also be accessed from the next road. Turn right (west) at the signs for the Talquin Wildlife Management Area.

14 # 24) One of Leon County’s most amazing magnolia trees stands at the center of the quiet and secluded Geddie Family Cemetery. Most of the burials date back to the early 1900s, and include members of the Woodard, Oliver, Key, Cleveland and Moody families, as well as others who lived in the area. At least one Confederate soldier – MSgt. James Oliver who served with Florida’s 5th Florida Infantry – is buried here.

# 25) The Talquin Wildlife Management Area covers over 3,000 acres and is one of nine designated tracts in the 17,000 acre Lake Talquin State Forest. Most of this particular acreage is covered with pine, but slope and ravine forests can be seen at the western portions of the WMA. The Ochlockonee River and Lake Talquin lie to the north. Service roads provide access for horseback riders, bikers, hikers, and other nature lovers. This area is a site on the Great Florida Birding Trail – particularly because it is home to ospreys, bald eagles, several varieties of warblers, wild turkey, and red-shouldered hawks. Wildlife – including coyotes, bobcats, and gopher tortoise – live in this forest. Camping is prohibited, but squirrel and deer hunting is allowed during season. Backwoods hikers are advised to wear hunter orange vests for safety. The main roads are paved and picnic areas are available. There is a porta-potty located at the entrance.

Return to the main entrance and turn right (south). The next tour location is on your left (east) side. The entrance is gated, but you can turn in to the driveway and have plenty of room to turn around.

# 26) The city of Tallahassee built a small generating plant back in 1902 to supply power to its 92 street lamps. The demand for more power increased as the city grew. The Arvah B. Hopkins Generating Plant was constructed in 1971, expanded in 1977, and is still publicly owned. The plant burns natural gas or oil to convert water into steam in two giant towers. In turn, the steam drives turbines to produce electricity. Additional power can be produced by gas turbine engines located on site. The city of Tallahassee has made a concerted effort to maintain the natural setting of the 230 acres surrounding the plant. In addition, over 40 tests are performed daily to assure no contaminants escape into the environment. The plant operates 365 days per year and hosts an annual open house in October as well as other scheduled tours. Contact 850-891-5806 for further information.

15 HISTORICal FACT: Arvah B. Hopkins moved to Florida from New York sometime before 1850. He was a planter, but was more consumed with his mercantile business and with politics than his farming operations. Soon after his arrival, he married Susan Branch, daughter of Florida Governor John Branch. Arvah was active in early Leon County government, but is perhaps best remembered for his 1858 purchase of Goodwood Plantation – now preserved in its mid-1900s appearance and operating as a museum. The dam is named after Arvah’s grandson, Arvah Branch Hopkins (1912-1976) who was a community activist and volunteer as well as an elected city commissioner.

This is the end of Tour # 2. You can return to Hwy. 90 via Geddie Rd. and turn right (east) to return to town. You can also turn left (south) on Geddie Rd. to connect with Hwy. 20 and Tour # 1.

16 Agriculture to Arrowheads ... U.S. Hwy. 27

The Red Hills of Florida have always been fertile. Native Americans inhabited these lands for thousands of years and thrived – not only because fish and game were abundant – but because the land grew all types of fruits and vegetables. Sweet potatoes and nuts were staples and other than alligators, snakes and an occasional bear or panther, the Indians had little to fear but warring neighbors and encroaching Europeans.

New colonists came from Spain, France, Great Britain, and other European countries and each introduced new crops that ranged from olives to cotton. Even today, is well-known for its nurseries and lush farm lands. The land is also rich with the historical evidence these residents left behind. This tour includes sites of habitation dating back thousands of years. Travel through time as you discover the mysteries of yesterday that co-exist with today’s modern wonders and the promise of things to be.

Tour # 3 begins at Lake Ella on U.S. Hwy. 27 (Monroe Street) just north of 7th Ave. At one point, your tour will connect to Old Bainbridge Road. You will be heading north – away from the city center.

# 27) There are several versions of the story of how Lake Ella got its name, but one thing is certain – the small body of water has been a landmark and source of recreation for Tallahassee citizens since the city was founded in 1824. During the territorial days of Florida, settlers drew water from the lake and it was referenced in some of the first deeds recorded in town. Some say Lake Ella was named after the daughter of early land owner Jabez Bull – though no daughter of that name appears in census records of Jabez’s household. Since the lake was once called Bull’s Pond, this theory is still credible. Then again, back in the early 1900s, ex-slave Margrett Nickerson reported the following, “Dere was Uncle George Bull, he could read and write and, chile, de white folks didn’t lak that … so dey useter take Uncle George Bull and beat him fur nuthin; dey would beat him and take him to de lake and put him on a log and shev him in de lake, but he always swimmed out.” Perhaps that was the reason it was called Bull’s Pond. Part of the acreage surrounding the lake was owned by George Proctor, a “free- black” and a carpenter of considerable reputation. There is written evidence that George had a granddaughter named Ella.

In 1867, over 2,000 former slaves gathered at the lake to celebrate the anniversary of emancipation and – no matter what the origin of the lake’s name – it was just one of the many community celebrations that have taken place there since. Today, it is still a popular location where people gather for fairs, picnics, occasional fireworks, weddings

17 or just to enjoy the fountains, turtles, geese and people-watching. The nearby, one-story stone structures are filled with retail shops. The buildings were once part of the Tallahassee Motor Hotel – also known as the Auto Court – that boasted of “65 different and individual cottages with private baths”.

Continue north on Hwy. 27 (Monroe Street) to Crowder Rd. Turn right (east) and follow the road as it turns- first to the left – then back to the right. Make another right (south) on Indian Mounds Rd.

# 28) The Jackson Mounds State Archeological Site offers visitors a glimpse into the lives of the Native Americans who inhabited this area during the Ft. Walton Period – the years 1100 to 1200 AD. This area was the site of a large village that included cultural and spiritual features. The park area contains 6 temple mounds and one possible burial mound. Artifacts, including copper breastplates, jewelry, pottery, and fragments of weapons have been found here. Visitors to the park can also see the ruins of a circa 1800 grist mill that was built by Robert Butler, a one-time aide to Andrew Jackson and Florida’s first Surveyor General. Nature trails wind through the area and scattered kiosks identify specific locations and provide visitor information. There is a large grassy area, picnic tables and a restroom for visitors. The park is open from 8:00 a.m. until sunset. Admission is $2.00 per car or $1.00 per person on foot or bike. Ranger-guided tours and interpretive programs can be arranged with two weeks notice. Call 850-922-6007 for additional information.

Retrace your path via Indian Mounds Rd. back to Crowder Rd. Turn left (west). Follow Crowder back to Hwy. 27 and turn right (north).

# 29) The U.S. 27 Boat Landing is a popular launch site for north county residents and serious fishing fans. The small park is operated by the county and there is no concrete boat ramp. There are a few picnic tables, an accessible porta-potty and plenty of room to stretch your legs and enjoy a wonderful view of the lake. Swimming, loud music and alcoholic beverages are prohibited.

18 FACT: Lake Jackson is a shallow, prairie lake. Two sinks – named Porter and Lime – lie within the lakebed and the water recedes and refills in and out of these sinks and the Floridan Aquifier in roughly 25 year cycles. The lake drained in 1999 and is still refilling. Lake Jackson covers approximately 6.2 square miles and has a drainage basin that extends over 42 square miles. U.S. Hwy. 27 runs along a causeway that separates the main body of water from Little Lake Jackson on the western side. Both lakes are home to a variety of endangered or rare wildlife, including snowy egret, little blue herron, wood stork, bald eagles, muskrat and alligators. Submerged vegetation includes blue hyssop, green fanwort, variable-leaf milfoil and bladderwort. Marsh plants, such as maidencane, pickerelweed, spikerush and American lotus are abundant.

Head north on U.S. 27 and turn right (east) on Old Bainbridge Rd.

# 30) Shucker’s Oyster Bar is a popular place for those with an appetite for fresh- from-the-Gulf goodies and cold drinks. The small restaurant and bar may look unassuming on the outside, but it is unconventional on the inside where memorabilia and photographs are tucked into every corner. The parking lot is usually filled with an odd assortment of revved up motorcycles and newer-model cars. Nobody on staff seems to know much about the history of the building, but owner Johnny Taylor has been here since 1985. He serves both fish and shellfish with a variety of special sauces or he will steam up a hot dog for landlubbers. There is plenty of cold beer and soft drinks to wash it all down. Shuckers does not accept checks or any kind of plastic, so bring your cash.

The driveway that leads to your next stop is adjacent to the restaurant area.

# 31) The Sunset Landing on Lake Jackson is a public area that offers ample parking, a covered picnic area, and restrooms. Visitors can fish in designated areas, but most folks come here for the expansive view of Lake Jackson, some of its marshlands and – even though you are not facing due west – the sunsets!

Return to Old Bainbridge and turn right (east). Turn right again at the signs for J. Lee Vause Park.

19 # 32) J. Lee Vause Park – named in honor of a former Leon county commissioner – sits on the northern shore of Lake Jackson. The complex stretches over 26 acres of open space and woodlands. There are 6 picnic pavilions that can be reserved for nominal rental fees, as well as numerous first-come, first- served tables scattered throughout the park. The facility also has a fanciful playground for the kids and volleyball areas for bigger folks. One mile of hard surface paths provide walkways for bikers, joggers and those who just want to take an easy stroll. Boardwalks provide access to other points of interest. Restrooms are on-site.

Return to U.S. Hwy. 27 and turn left to return to Tallahassee. If you want to tour some more, turn right (north) on Old Bainbridge and take a side trip to Orchard Pond Rd. to view lands once owned by former Governor Richard Keith Call. You can also connect to the North Leon County Heritage Trail Tour by following Orchard Pond to Meridian Rd. If shopping suits your mood, take a side-trip to the historical tobacco and vegetable-canning town of Havana, Florida by returning to Hwy. 27 and turning right (north).

HISTORICal FACT: Richard Keith Call hailed from Virginia, but he became a tireless promoter of the north Florida Red Hills area. He first saw Leon County while serving as an aide-de-camp to Andrew Jackson in 1814. Call returned several times, helped to set up the state’s first Territorial government, was a practicing attorney, served as a U.S. Congressman and was Florida’s Territorial Governor for two terms. Call amassed large tracts of land and was singularly responsible for “recruiting” several planters from Virginia and the Carolinas to establish plantations here. Richard Call’s “city home” – the Grove – is still standing near the present-day governor’s mansion in Tallahassee. He named his largest plantation Orchard Pond. It covered much of the land along Old Bainbridge that is now part of the Ayavalla Plantation. The small body of water there was the site of African American baptisms for over 100 years. In 1974, St. Paul Missionary Baptist Church received permission from the owners to renew the tradition.

A side trip to Havana (located in neighboring Gadsden County) will take as little as 30 minutes – to drive north on U.S. 27, circle the downtown area, and return to Tallahassee – or, you may decide to park the car and stay a while to enjoy the town’s many restaurants, shops, museums and historical sites. Named after Havana, Cuba, the farming town was famous for its shade tree tobacco production prior to the 1940s when tobacco farming shifted into areas of Central America. The area experienced another economic boom during WWII when local canneries secured

20 government contracts to provide canned vegetables for the military. Diehard residents held the agricultural community together after the war, but many of them opted to take jobs in Tallahassee rather than farm. By 1983, most of the remaining Havana businesses had closed and numerous buildings were vacant. At the same time, antique dealers Henderson and Lee Hotchkiss were looking for a place to expand their business. They bought an entire block, sold some of the buildings, leased others, and purchased more property. Their enthusiasm was contagious. Today, Havana is a regional center for antique dealers, artists, restaurateurs, and performers. Streets are lined with holly trees and flower boxes are filled with blooming flowers. Visitors will see an occasional bumper sticker that proclaims, “Havana – Tallahassee’s Downtown”. Check out http://www.townofhavana.com for more information.

21 Notes

22 Notes

23 “Main Roads & Cross Roads” Sites

Scouting Nature’s Bounty ... State Hwy. 20

# 1 – Stop - Tiny Register’s Hwy. 20 BBQ # 2 – Stop - Country Feed Store and Garden Supply # 3 – Stop - Silver Lake # 4 – Drive Through - Lake Talquin State Forest and Longleaf Pine/ Wiregrass Restoration Area # 5 – Windshield - Ebenezer Leon Baptist Church and cemetery # 6 – Stop - Lake Talquin State Forest Ft. Braden Trail # 7 – Stop - Ft. Braden Community Park # 8 – Stop - William’s Landing # 9 – Stop - Ft. Braden Cemetery # 10 – Stop - River Bluff State Picnic Site # 11 – Stop - Jack Vause Landing # 12 – Stop - Ft. Braden Library # 13 – Stop - Old Ft. Braden School # 14 – Windshield - Ft. Braden Pentecostal Holiness Church # 15 – Stop - Luther Hall Landing # 16 – Windshield - Lake Talquin Baptist Church # 17 – Stop - Ben Stoutamire Landing # 18 – Drive Through - Bloxham Community # 19 – Drive Through - Bloxham School (Old Mt. Zion, a.k.a. the Dam School) # 20 – Stop - C .H. Corn Hydroelectric Station

Missions to Megawatts ... U.S. Hwy. 90

# 21 – Stop - Mission San Luis de Apalachee # 22 – Stop - Bethel United Methodist Church and Cemetery # 23 – Windshield - Ole Gospel Tabernacle Church # 24 – Stop - Geddes Family Cemetery # 25 – Stop - Talquin Wildlife Management Area # 26 – Stop - Arvah B. Hopkins Generating Plant

Agriculture to Arrowheads ... U.S. Hwy. 27

# 27 – Stop - Lake Ella # 28 – Stop - Jackson Mounds State Archeological Site # 29 – Stop - U.S. 27 Boat Landing # 30 – Stop - Shucker’s Oyster Bar # 31 – Stop - Sunset Landing # 32 – Stop - J. Lee Vause Park Side trip – Orchard Pond Road Side Trip – Havana, Florida

24