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Contributors Contributors BILL AITKEN is Scottish by birth, a naturalized Indianby choice. He studied comparative religion at Leeds University and hitch-hiked to India in 1959. He has lived in Himalayan ashrams and undertaken miscellaneous excursions ­ from Nanda Devi to Sabarimala - on an old motorbike and by vintage steam railway. He has written on travel and tourism for newspapers and magazines in India for several years. His earlier books include Seven Sacred Rivers, The Nanda Devi Affair, Travels by a Lesser Line, and Exploring Indian Railways. JOHNARRAN is one of Britain's foremost all-round climbers who has excelled on a wide range of challenges, from the competition circuit, to bold new climbs on gritstone and on sea cliffs as well as big walls around the world. Among his more recent highlights are a repeat of Ed Drummond's Long Hope Route on St John's Head and a new ElO on Curbar in Derbyshire. He is a computer consultant currently working in Kos~vo on systems for the upcoming elections. PETERBERG is a retired scientist and Radio 3 announcer and producer, now freelancing on subjects as diverse as early music, food, sailing and mountaineering. Since 2000 he has been the Alpine Club's Honorary Archivist. JOSE LUIS BERMUDEZ is professor in the Department of Philosophy, University of Stirling. He took up climbing too late and has been making up for lost time in the Alps, Caucasus and Himalaya. In July 1997 he climbed Gasherbrum I. Co-author, with Audrey Salkeld, of On The Edge of Europe: Mountaineering in the Caucasus. ALAN BLACKSHAW OBE joined the AC aged 21 and wrote the definitive text book Mountaineering in Britain in 1965. He edited the Alpine Journal from 1968 to 1970. He has climbed in the Caucasus, Greenland and Garhwal and extensively in the Alps where he made the first British ascents of the N Faces of the Badile, the Triolet and the Paine de Sucre. He led the first British ski traverse of the Alps and a N-S traverse of Scandinavia. President of the BMC (1973­ 76), he has also served as President of the UIAA Mountaineering Commission. He is currently President of the Alpine Club. HAMISH BROWN is a travel writer based in Scotland, when not wandering worldwide or making extended visits to Morocco. Recent books are The Fife Coast and The Last Hundred (Mainstream) and 25 Walks, Fife and Exploring the Edinburgh to Glasgow Canals (HMSO). FRANK CARD was a member of the RAF Montrose (later RAF Edzell) Mountain Rescue Team during National Service, and one of his books has been Whensoever- 50 Years of the RAFMountain Rescue Service 1943-1993 (The Ernest Press 1993). A founder member of the RAF Mountain Rescue Association, he is editor of its annual journal On the Hill. 358 CONTRIBUTORS 359 JULES CARTWRIGHT is an aspirant British Mountain Guide and has been climbing for 20 years. One of Britain's most promising young alpinists, he has technical new routes to his name all over the world, including Scotland, the Alps, Alaska and the Himalaya. In 2000 he and Ian Parnell put up a new route on Mount Hunter inAlaska. He has been nominated for the Piolet d'Or Award. ANTONELLA CICOGNA works as a journalist and translator. From 1998 to 2001 she ran the press office at the International Mountain Film Festival at Trento. She has travelled and climbed in the Andes, India and Pakistan, and in Yosemite. Her articles have appeared in mountaineering publications all over the world. ROB COLLISTER is a mountain guide, happily married with three children, who lives in North Wales. He regards himself as 'one of Fortune's favoured few' (in Churchill's phrase) who can earn a living doing what they love. His book of essays Over the Hills and Far Away was published in 1996. ED DOUGLAS is a writer and current Honorary Editor of the Alpine Journal. His fIrst book, Chomolungma Sings the Blues, won the Special Jury Award at Banff in 1998. His latest book, co-authored with David Rose, is Regions of the Heart: The Triumph and Tragedy ofAlison Hargreaves. He is currently writing a biography of Tenzing Norgay for National Geographic. MlCHAEL DOYLE started climbing in the Alps in 1957, and made several Alpine-climbing trips in subsequent years. As he spent much of his working life in West Africa, he became more used to West African rock climbing. He returned to the Alps in 1983. Since then he has climbed in Turkey, Dagestan, Siberia and Morocco. TERRY GIFFORD is Reader in Literature and Environment at the University of Leeds and Director of the annual International Festival of Mountaineering Literature at Bretton Hall Campus. He is seeking PhD research students in mountaineering literature. The article included here is part of a book project, The Legacy ofJohn Muir: Essays in post-Pastoral Pradice. STEPHEN GOODWIN exchanged the turbulence of journalism and politics in the 'Westminster village' for subtler currents in Cumbria's Eden Valley. One way or another mountains, their crags, inhabitants and, sometimes their politics, take up most days. He has developed a bruising fascination with the ranges of the eastern Taurus in Turkey. DENNIS GRAYwas bornin Leeds andstartedclimbing onlocal gritstone outcrops aged eleven. He has climbed in and trvelled to over sixty countries, most recently Chin, Southern Africa and Hungary. He is a former General Secretary ofthe BMC and Chairman of Leeds Wall. He is the author of four books about climbing. Currentlyworking ona volume ofpoetry, he is also organising an exhibition ofhis own photographs taken from fifty years of travel and mountaineering. 360 THE ALPINE JOURNAL 2002 JOHN GREGSON is a teacher of Art. He has climbed in the Alps almost every year since 1972, and in recent years has taken up Nordic-style ski touring and ski mountaineering. LINDSAY GRIFFIN is a magazine editor andjournalist living in North Wales who, despite dwindling ability, still pursues all aspects of climbing with undiminished enthusiasm. Exploratory visits to the Greater Ranges are his main love, and his last two expeditions have taken him to previously unclimbed mountains in Central Alaska. DAVID HAMILTON earns a precarious living organising trekking, moun­ taineering and ski touring expeditions to the world's great mountain ranges. He has spent the last dozen summers in northern Pakistan leading more than 30 groups on a variety of unpredictable projects in the Karakoram and Hindu Kush ranges. Other mountain adventures, in Africa, South America, Russia and the Alps, ensure that David is seldom found at home. STUART HORSMAN is the Centril Asian Research Analyst at the Foreign and Commonwealth Office. He has published articles on political, security and environmental issues in Central Asia, including 'Environmental Security: Regional Cooperation or Conflict?' in R Allison &L Jonson (eds), Central Asian Security: The NewInternational Context, Brookings Institute, 2001. He has travelled throughout Central Asia but his climbing experiences are limited to the Peak District, the Lakes and Snowdonia. LEO HOULDING is 21 and was brought up in Cumbria. A rock-climbing prodigy, his ascents include an on-sight repeat of Master's Wall on Cloggy and, with Patch Hammond, an astonishing near on-sight repeat of El Nifto on El Capitan. Houlding was recently injured in Patagonia attempting to free the route claimed by Cesare Maestri on Cerro Torre in 1959. TONY HOWARD a founding partner of Troll Safety Equipment, led the first ascent of Norway's Troll Wall in 1965 and wrote the Romsdal guide. His expeditions include Arctic Norway, Canada, South Georgia and Greenland. He has climbed extensively across North Africa and the Middle East from Morocco to Iran. He 'discovered' and wrote the guide to Wadi Rum. Recently, he rediscovered Egypt's forgotten Red Sea Mountains. ELISABETH HUSSEY worked for a Catholic publisher and then Autocar magazine. Her sister was secretary of the Kandahar Ski Club, and so she was well prepared in 1964 to work for Amold Lunn as assistant editor of the Ski Club of Great Britain's British Ski Year Book. When Arnold Lunn died in 1974 she edited the Club's relaunched magazine Ski Survey until 1992. HARISH KAPADIA has climbed in the Himalaya since 1960, with ascents up to 6800m. He is Hon Editor of both the Himalayan Journal and the HC CONTRIBUTORS 361 Newsletter. In 1993 he was awarded the IMF's Gold Medal and in 1996 was made an Honorary Member of the Alpine Club. He has written several books including High Himalaya Unknown Valleys, Spiti: Adventures in the Trans-Himalaya and, with Soli Mehta, Exploring the Hidden Himalaya. PAUL KNOTThas recently made several changes of continent and nowlectures at the University of Canterbury, New Zealand. He delights in visiting obscure mountain ranges and has climbed in most regions of Russia and Central Asia. After three successful trips he also enjoys the adventure provided by the big snowy peaks of the St Elias range in the Yukon. JOHANNA MERZ was over 50 when she took up mountaineering in 1983. After qualifying for membership of the Alpine Club, she devoted most of her energies to the Alpine Journal, first as Assistant Editor, then as Editor from 1992 to 1998, and currently as Production Editor. MARTIN MORAN is a qualified mountain guide whose interests range from mountain running to making new routes on technica peaks in the Garhwal. In 1985 he made the first winter traverse of the Munros and in 1993, with Simon Jenkins, the first continuous traverse of al the 4000m peaks in the Alps. In 2000 he made the first ascent of the W Ridge of Nilkanth (6596m). TAMOTSU NAKAMURA was born in Tokyo in 1934 and has been climbing new routes in the greater ranges since his first successes in the Cordillera B1anca of Peru in 1961.
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