Grant Goodeve Rolls out the Welcome Mat Best Scenic 8 Road Trips Journey Into Native Culture

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washington state 2013 This Land is Your Land grant goodeve rolls out the Welcome Mat BEsT sCEniC 8 road TriPs Journey into native Culture

ScenicWA.com 1 Every weekend adventure needs a home base.

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6 | An Insider’s View

7 | Travel Highlights Contents 8 | Introduction Features 10 | Meet the Locals For Northwest Backroads host Grant Goodeve, it’s the people that make this state great.

15 | Rediscover Seattle Fresh things to do in the city we thought we knew.

19 | Found in the South Sound There is a world to explore between Seattle and Tacoma.

23 | A Retail Odyssey Our Backroads Insider explores some great I-5 exits for shopping success.

26 | The Native State The names of our indigenous tribes fill this land along with the people and traditions they carry.

31 | Power Trips Stunning spots that generate a lot of juice.

33 | Peak Experience Get the most out of winters in the vieW of the CoWlitz ChimneyS driving Evergreen State by heading for the WeSt on highWAy 410 over CAyuSe PASS white stuff. richard duval “You couldn’t make up a more incredible 36 | When in Wine Country An Insider’s guide to touring vineyards combination of scenery and serendipity and tasting rooms like a champ. than the real stuff that’s right here...”

INSIDER TIPS · MAPS · OUTDOOR RECREATION · WINE COUNTRY (See page 8) Hit the Road WASHINGTON STATE 2013 42 | Scenic Byways THIS LAND IS These eight great scenic road trips YOUR LAND guarantee that adventure is always on GRANT GOODEVE Rolls Out the Welcome Mat the horizon. BEST SCENIC 8 ROAD TRIPS Journey 78 | Places to Stay and Things to Do into Native Culture Welcome to Washington

nate Watters Watters nate Scan to get a personal welcome from our definitive insider. 82 | Road Map ScenicWA.com 3 scenicWa.com Scenic Washington At home: go mobile: get SoCiAl: Find great deSktoP PlAnning WhAt’S neArby? ShAre your The Scenic Washington Want local information WAShington ideas to plan family of travelers is while on the road? Our Join the conversation in growing daily. Make sure mobile app, ScenicWA is our social media network the perfect you go online and sign available for both iPhone to share your own local up for our monthly travel and Android. The “Nearby” knowledge. Sure, we can tell you what we know, sWeepstakes road trip. tips, deals & packages feature will and other useful planning help you find but it’s way fun to hear information. Review your those places to what you like to do too. favorite businesses and check out right On Facebook, join us at share your experiences. around the next /ScenicWashingtonState or corner. try /365WashingtonState to get a daily dose of fun ideas.

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visit us online at scenicwa.com win an insider’s view Let’s get “outta here!”

A boss once told me his favorite part of vacation is leaving the office. Ahh, the “outta here” moment— it’s the best feeling in the world. You’re on your way, and the destination is still pure, perfect anticipation. Possibilities are endless, reality hasn’t intruded. Researchers in the Netherlands even found that the benefits of vacation show up during the planning stages; looking forward to a vacation boosts happiness for eight weeks. “my 2013 travel picks: Isn’t that great? I’ve got a plan for worldwide happiness. Let’s all go the million-dollar away more this year. Spread vacations days out and take long camping mile on sr 155 weekends in late summer, when weather in Washington State is uS 101 along hood statistically the warmest. Book a winter getaway at Crystal Mountain Canal in november – Resort where it’s almost always possible to find good snow. Reserve maple leaves so big rooms for storm watching on Long Beach, fly fishing along the Yakima they might crack your River, or wine tasting in Walla Walla. windshield. I plan on contributing to the general welfare by taking a bunch of small vacations and having multiple “outta here” moments. Commit uS 12 from Walla to fun now, and I guarantee the details will take care of themselves, as Walla to Waitsburg: you’re rolling down the road with a big fat smile on your face. Make it so Be sure to whistle that whenever taxes, pressure washing the driveway, or company picnics in dixie. threaten your sacred weekend, you can honestly respond: “Sorry, no can the mima mounds do. I’ve got plans!” near tenino. This magazine, the one you’ve got in your hands right now is a i’ve been in Westport potential mega-dose of happy. Getaways, adventures and discoveries surf, Wilbur wheat fields, right here in Washington State. Many, many vacations, which properly and the chaos of racing spaced, can keep you smiling the whole year. Scenic Washington 2013 commodes at conconully’s provides plenty of good “outta here”. annual outhouse races, So get going! because i lucked into tv producing years ago, and turned it into an Anne Erickson excuse to poke around Head Writer and Backroads Insider this fantastic, funky state. Scenic Washington State my goal? When you’re in Washington and someone asks “are we there yet?” your answer will always be, “Yep!”

6 scenic Washington state 2013 Favorite places from scenic Washington insiders

“Palouse from “i like destinations “Alpine lakes “Pacific Science “William Church Steptoe butte– where you can Wilderness Center dinosaurs, Winery Woodinville spring or fall set up a home multiple-lake bugs and butterflies lucky 8’s Chinese Walla Walla– base and play backpacking and – oh my! fort restaurant seattle several courses. fishing loop hike. Casey Big guns, grape harvest rhododendron bellingham, kitsap forks, WA salmon saltwater shore and mountain loop Peninsula, Spokane a lighthouse. nW Cafe Bow highway–winter and steelhead on and the tri-Cities Washington’s trek Wildlife Park huckleberry’s Prosser balloon are among my most scenic rivers. eye to eye with wild natural market rally–summer favorites. animals and a zip spokane mt. St. helens line too. tipsoo lake– ape caves one the black Cyprus summer wildflowers day, summit hike pullman the next.

Golf Insider Marcus Yearout Family Shutter Stops i play golf much like Travel Insider Wine & Food Bubba Watson… that is Jennifer coleman Insiders richard duval to say i hit the ball, find Intrepid Insider i like road trips, as Adrianne Young culled from my frequent it and hit it again. that’s nate Watters travels around scenic where the similarity ends long as i’m driving. We & erik cannella snowshoeing, Washington, my wine, but, hey, you’ve got to camp in a tent (oh, the erik and i weave food, snowboarding, fishing scenic and landscape start somewhere! humanity!) and seek wine and writing into or hiking—you’ll always images are found on adventure in the great our everyday. When not find me looking for a note cards, calendars pacific northwest. my working our farm, we’re new place to be. i’m a and bookstores and boys have uttered the serving dinner at our photographer by trade numerous gallery fateful words ‘are we wine country restaurant, and there aren’t many exhibits. there yet?!’ on many a café manson. We live to places i won’t take a trip. oh, and the dog find inspiring eateries, camera, so expect to see comes too... wineries and markets. plenty of photos the Seattle Public of my adventures. library (with an exquisite fire hydrant out front), emP and the new Chihuly garden and glass Explorer in at seattle center are hard to beat for Tap into all of the great Residence architecture. travel insights from Oby scout Scenic Washington While i’m no stranger to a roll in extremely smelly insiders at piles of goo, i prefer places that make me wonder scenicwa.com/ Insider Blog why. observatories make me realize how little we asktheinsiders.php know; great works of art, architecture and music make me realize how much we have to offer. ScenicWA.com 7 this place is for real Welcome to Washington State.

it might happen when you’re on a ferry packed with commuters heading for seattle, and the captain comes on the intercom and casually remarks, “there’s a pod of orcas just off the starboard side of the vessel.” and indeed, there are orcas swimming southward. and yes, that is mount rainier in the background.

It might happen when you ski in the mountains, and then dine at a desert winery on the same day. It might happen when you see the Space Needle perfectly reflected in a blue globe of glass blown by Dale Chihuly. You couldn’t make up a more incredible combination of scenery and serendipity than the real stuff that’s right here, ripe for discovery in Washington State. Honestly, people who have lived here all their lives can still have jaw-dropping moments—moments so stunningly gorgeous you can’t even brag about them because no one would believe the boast. So, welcome to Washington—the state that can’t wait to blow your mind. grant gunderson lAy of the lAnd Western Washington is the reason for the moniker Evergreen State, lives and landforms on a bright day in May just 33 years ago. though the truth is infinitely more colorful. Sun and sky lights the Mount Baker, Glacier Peak, Mount Rainier, Mount St. Helens and Pacific waves a vibrant blue, tulip fields add rainbow hues come Mount Adams are such singular peaks, jaded jet travelers push up April, and the mood can change from pearly gray to hot pink in the the shades and watch for them on the approach to SeaTac. span of an hour. Of course there’s green too—hundreds of different shades. deSert PlAinS And neArly endleSS SunShine Weather rolling in off the Pacific Ocean bumps up against our Desert and sunshine in a state known for its rain? You bet! In mountain ranges, releasing rain and watering forests so well that the fact it actually occupies about two-thirds of our state’s land largest temperate rain forest in the continental United States thrives mass. Eastern Washington (or “east of the mountains,” as here. Western Washington is lush, treed and teeming with life. everyone here says) is dramatic with wide-open land and big skies. Nothing compares to emerging from under the clouds our volCAniC PeAkS west of the Cascades into the sunny skies and warmth of A fence of volcanoes divides the state. (Again, can this place be territory east of the mountains. real?) The Cascade Range stretches from north to south—five active The bounty here is undeniable; pluck a peach in Quincy, volcanoes, including Mount St. Helens, which woke up and changed wander a Yakima vineyard and race your shadow along rolling

8 scenic Washington state 2013 this place is for real

hiking in WAShington StAte’S enChAntmentS loCAted in the AlPine lAkeS WilderneSS

fields of wheat near Walla Walla. Or marvel at coulees carved magazine photos. And yes, when you are in Washington you out by an ancient flood that rushed through this land, dropping will have moments so beautiful you’ll hesitate to share them boulders as big as houses in its wake. Really. for fear of disbelief. Here is mine, and I swear on the world’s largest spruce tree (find it on the south shore of Lake Quinault) duAl PerSonAlitieS CAn be A good thing it’s true. The magic of Washington is that it has eastern and western, I was sitting on a surfboard out in the Strait of Juan de Fuca two decidedly different sides. Such contrast contained in one under a steely gray sky with a rainbow. I heard a plop and saw state is grand excess, and locals take advantage of the difference. a salmon arcing out of the water—then another and another. Western Washingtonians head east for sun and space. Eastern They were chasing a school of feeder fish, and for a moment I Washingtonians head west to catch salmon and cool off. And was surrounded by splashing flashes of silver salmon. So even everybody plays in the mountains when it snows. as a lifelong Washingtonian, I still had to exclaim, “Is this place for real?” yeS, it’S reAl! Yes, it’s for real. Enjoy! So, yes, people commute with whales here. Yes, the Space Needle really is as cool in person as it looks in all of the Anne Erickson, our head writer and ScenicWA.com Backroads Insider

ScenicWA.com 9 10 scenic Washington state 2013 Meet the Locals Northwest Backroads host Grant Goodeve spotlights the people that make this state great.

W hen we moved to the Seattle area in 1989, I had no idea that one day I would be the host of a regional outdoor/travel show, Northwest Backroads, which would allow me to explore Wthe Pacific Northwest and especially the great state of Washington. In all my years on the road shooting Northwest Backroads one thing remains constant: the particular beauty of Washington and the unique character of the people who live here.

When it comes to my favorite places to visit in Washington, I am partial to the mountainous regions, especially the Methow Valley with its wonderful combination of mountains, valleys, trails, vistas and a variety of recreation. Even still, two of the best views around don’t require much travel from Seattle: the Olympics to the west and Rainier to the southeast are easily accessible within a couple hours. If you want to experience one of the most impeccable views in the world, venture to Mineral Lake near Elbe and the Nisqually entrance to Mount Rainer National Park. There you will find a lookout where Rainer looms over the lake. You won’t even need a camera, as the image will remain indelibly etched in your memory. While I could recommend myriad places in Washington to visit and explore, in this article I thought that I’d share some of my favorite people I’ve met along the way; people who have helped make our video adventures more meaningful and just plain fun. One thing all these folks have in common is a love for where they live and an enthusiasm for what they do. Clam Digging with Richard Cameron Richard Cameron is a razor clam digger we interviewed on the Washington coast at Copalis Beach near the Iron Springs Resort north of Ocean Shores. He was fanatical about digging for razor clams. His zeal, along with the short clamming season and brief window of opportunity for actually finding clams on the beach when the surf receded, made pinning Richard down for an interview a world-class challenge. Numerous times, while the camera was rolling and the interview was in progress, Richard could not help himself and bolted out to the edge of the sea while the tide was out, wielding his heavy razor-clamming pipe and pounding into the sand like a crazed Viking. I don’t remember if he got that many clams, but we eventually got the interview and, of course, plenty of video documenting Richard’s hilariously hyperactive clamming. I have rarely encountered an individual who would so deserve to enjoy the fruit of his labors, or in this case, the clams of his labors, in the form of a fine razor clam stew.

nate watters and charles gurche watters nate ScenicWA.com 11 On the Yakima River with Jack Mitchell An equally enthusiastic companion was Jack Mitchell, an expert fly-fisherman and owner of The Evening Hatch guide service that has locations throughout Washington. On this trip, Jack took us on a float down the Yakima River outside of Ellensburg. The day was perfect—the sun was bursting out of a clear blue sky, the temperature was in the mid 70s and the sunlight shot back out of the river in elegant sparks. We shot five shows that day, a new record. We filmed lots of scenic footage while enjoying an exhilaratingly relaxing day on the water. The key ingredient to the energy in these shows was Jack, of course, who had not been out on the water for several weeks because he had his guide service to run. This otherwise intelligent middle-aged man began acting like a giddy youngster, especially yAkimA river cAnyon when he saw a good place to lay in his line or sensed that a fish was about to strike. It was like Christmas morning all day long. Our guide flew from one side of the raft to another casting his line with precision and glee. Catching the fish was only one element in what was an obviously quasi-spiritual experience. If someone asked me if I’ve ever seen joy in action, I’d say sure, right there that day on the Yakima River. Living on Roquefort time with the Monteillets A few years later on the far eastern side of Washington, I made a startling and important discovery thanks to Pierre-Louis and Joan Monteillet of the Monteillet Fromagerie just outside the town of Dayton. There I discovered that one could find true joie de vivre on jAck mitchell Aiming to cAtch more fiSh a cheese farm. And who knew that making something as mundane as cheese would be

courtesy grant goodeve so monumentally fun?

12 scenic Washington state 2013

AlaskaAir_SCWA13 1_2h.pdf inge johnson

Annual Christmas Lighting Festival in December. Of course, we should have known something was up when the crew arrived at the When all decked out for Christmas, Leavenworth cheese farm and were immediately invited into the owner’s county home for an early takes on the look of a life size snow globe. afternoon lunch straight out of A Year in Provence. Amidst laughter, fine wine and cheese, we were lulled into “Roquefort” time, the region of France where Pierre-Louis was from. All to say, we almost forgot that we had a show to shoot. As we headed to the cheese-making facility, we saw sheep and goats everywhere, along with college-age kids from all over the world working the farm and learning the cheese trade. Now it was my turn. Under the tutelage of the effervescent Joan Monteillet, I proceeded to make my first piece of mozzarella. Not quite the same as landing a trout but satisfying nonetheless—especially because of the Joan’s humor and hospitality. The whole experience was highlighted by the appearance of my beautiful wife, Debbie, who tasted and approved my cheesy work and gave me a big onscreen thumbs-up. Saying “cheese” when smiling for the camera would never be the same again. Sliding through Leavenworth with the Experts In Leavenworth, a favorite of anyone traveling around Washington, there were two people I remember the best. One was a young lad around 10 years old who was part of our extra casting as we filmed some sledding in the town center. It was a crisp, clear winter evening and with the golden glow of the street lamps on the snow along with the festively decorated trees and shops, one would have thought they were experiencing a live Norman Rockwell re-enactment. There was great festivity and laughter as the kids barreled down the hill on a variety of sleds, toboggans and sheets of plastic, and then hustled up the hill only to head down once again. I stood at the top and watched a group of young sled riders take a few runs. Then I prepared to take my turn. My young aforementioned friend stood at the top with me and soberly surveyed the hill. He gave me some sledding advice with the endearing seriousness that only a kid with years of vast sledding experience could bring. As I sat down he gave me a thumbs-up and the entire group chanted, “One, two, three—go!” I had a rush of adrenaline unequaled since my rodeo and ski-racing days. One big bump, a crash and burn later the cheerful if grim assessment of my 10-year old expert was, “Wow, he totally biffed!”

ScenicWA.com 13 Making Dinner with Kenneth MacDonald Just outside of Leavenworth proper is the Sleeping Lady Resort, owned by Dorothy Bullitt of KING-TV fame, where I assisted with dinner preparations in the spacious dining hall with the head chef, Kenneth MacDonald. To say the least, Kenneth was focused and enthused about his work and had the type-A, super-energetic personality mixed with a good sense of humor that makes shooting sequences for Northwest Backroads such great fun. tootSie clArke And grAnt goodeve

courtesy sleeping lady Kenneth was from Scotland originally, and courtesy grant goodeve Kenneth MacDonald, Executive Chef, since my full name is Grant MacKenzie Goodeve, Kingfisher Restaurant & Wine Bar, along with the fact that I was conceived in Sleeping Lady Resort Scotland and that I once played the role of an old At the Pass with Scottish gold-miner on stage in Seattle, I couldn’t help myself and began to speak Tootsie Clarke with a Scottish brogue. (After all, I am a classically trained actor!) Before long I was I conclude my tour of favorite folks with no longer a television host, but had become “Angus,” chef Kenneth’s cousin and sous one of life’s greatest treasures, Tootsie chef from Glasgow. Clarke. Tootsie has run The Eatery on To say we hit it off was an under-statement. During the on-camera interview where the North Cascade Highway in the town we discussed creating cuisine from the fresh, organic produce grown right at the of Marblemount since 1982. She built Sleeping Lady Resort, we mainly cut up and cooked up a stew of laughter. For a fleeting her reputation for good food and warm moment, NW Backroads ran the risk of becoming a new hit realty show, “Kenneth and welcomes on 16 hours a day of plain Angus Make Dinner.” hard work. And to meet Tootsie is to encounter someone who glows from within. She is both warm and sweet much like her world-famous cinnamon I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I rolls. But also has a subtle sauciness and I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I pixie-like sense of humor. If you’ve ever I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I met her, you’ll never forget her. One of Tootsie’s main claims to fame, besides her cinnamon rolls, is that she opens the mountain pass every year at milepost 134 when Highway 20 is re- opened to traffic. Every spring, Tootsie can be seen carrying her signature cinnamon rolls to pass out to everyone assembled for the gate opening. This past year, at the age of 90, she brought 90 cinnamon rolls for the crowd and even confided to me that although she had just healed from a broken arm injury incurred during the winter, she could still push open the gate to the pass. People Make the Place It’s not just the beauty, it is the people, like Tootsie, along with all the many friends we’ve made along the way, that make shooting Northwest Backroads and exploring Washington an ongoing gift.

Grant Goodeve, host of KING 5’s television show “Northwest Backroads”

14 scenic Washington state 2013 rediscover Seattle Fresh things to do in the city we thought we knew.

2 3 4 5 1. greg vaughn 2. courtesy chihuly MuseuM 3., 4., 5. roseMary Washington it’s easy to think you’ve got seattle all figured out, since so many of its icons have been around for a while. the space needle just celebrated its 50th birthday, everyone knows about the flying salmon at thepike place do you knoW Market, and yeah, the city shows up in a lot of movies and the locAtionS of theSe tv shows. But this city that’s wedged between salt water photoS? and snowy peaks is as dynamic as its stunning setting;

there’s always something new to discover here. Many of

5. intERnAtiOnAL DiStRiCt intERnAtiOnAL 5.

thEAtER’S guM WALL guM thEAtER’S seattle’s most popular spots have sides few have seen or

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in thE SuMMER thE in new additions that make them even more compelling.

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WAterfront neWcomerS sylvester the Mummy at ye olde curiosity shop and the otters at the seattle aquarium have new company on the seattle waterfront. the great Wheel takes visitors up 175 feet in the air and dangles them 40 feet out over the edge of the dock it sits upon. the biggest wheel on the West coast spins rain or shine and is a welcome addition to the seattle skyline. the waterfront is still the launching spot for argosy cruises and the popular tillicum village tour of Blake island. diy explorers with an artistic bent must see the olympic sculpture park at the north end of the waterfront.

SeAttle center updAte A newcomer to the Seattle more At the mArket the hirAm m. chittenden if pike place Market is the soul of waterfront, the great Wheel has already proven to be one customers have been able to lockS—unplugged seattle, seattle center is its brain. of downtown’s most popular meet the producers at pike place commonly called the Ballard this stimulating spot is home attractions. photo by jamie Market since 1907, and no visit locks, this spot actually got more to seattle repertory theatre, 2013 WHEN YOUand judy GO wild ADS to seattle is complete unless visitors thanMIGHT the space BE needle A PICK-UP seattle opera, the seattle storm, it concludes with an armload in 2011 (1,235,000, handily Bumbershoot over labor day, of fresh-cut flowersWhe ($8!) Yo from G beating the needle’s 1,200,000, Folklife over Memorial day—the Whe Yo G Whe Yo G Whe Yo G Whe Yo G Save 45% off admission Whe Yo G Whe Yo G the Market. vendorsto Seattle’s offering 6 must-see according to the puget sound list goes on. gleaming produce,attractions fresh-from- with Seattle Business journal). stroll this the site of the 1962 World’s CityPASS. You’ll skip the-sea goodiesmost and ticket artisan lines, too. crafts park anytime to see everything Fair has new additions to show are perennial attractions.For more information For a from pleasure craft to crab boats off as well. chihuly garden and and to purchase more in-depthbooklets experience, or vouchers savor locking through from puget glass reaffirms the center’s

R visit citypass.com. E seattle offers tasting tours of the sound to lake Washington. M role as a vibrant part of seattle IM W S A local food producers. visit in september and witness R culture. this brand new MYSTIC SEA CHARTERS LA BY TO Mystic Sea Charters evening ghost tours of the huge salmon fighting their PwayHO attraction at the base of the ORCAS ISLAND Guaranteed Whale SKAMANIA LODGE KITSAP TOURS NORTH CASCADES ECLIPSE CHARTERS Sightings, Five star Just 45 minutes from Just a ferry ride from Market peel back the happy into fresh water to spawn; the space needle is a literal splash INSTITUTE ADVENTURE QUEST Cruise aboard world rating! See the whales, Portland, in the Seattle, Kitsap Tours takes hustle and bustle of daytime for fish ladder has windows and can of color designed and created KAYAKING TOURS famous “Orcas Express” the wildlife and the San Columbia River Gorge, you beyond the city to North Cascades Environ- Whale-watching kayak for great whale watching Juan Islands aboard the Skamania Lodge is explore Bainbridge Island a look at this neighborhood’s captivate kids formental a long Learning time. Center, But by renowned glass artist dale tours in the prime orca & historic lighthouse tours. classic 100ft. Mystic Sea. naturally perfect for and the Kitsap Peninsula. darker history. if that seems a for a real story toan tell, eco-friendly drop by retreat in in chihuly. the exhibition hall and whale waters. Day trips Professional naturalists. Excellent indoor and meetings, vacations Take the ferry from the heart of the national little macabre for your taste, visit mid-november topark see on the Diablo locks Lake, glasshouse surround visitors to Lime Kiln Whale Watch 8368 Orcas Road outdoor viewing, and getaways. Pier 52 in Seattle. Park and camping expedi- onboard naturalist, marine offers learning adventures Orcas, WA 98280 1131 SW Skamania More information and on the first day of spring and laid bare. every year, the u.s. with the free-form beauty, and tions to outer islands. mammal education focus. for people of all ages 800-376-6566 Lodge Way reservations online at Expert guides, small get handed a fresh daffodil for army corps of engineersthroughout drains the year. the outdoor “garden” planted www. 1-800-308-9387 Stevenson, WA 98648 www.KitsapTours.com groups, families welcome. orcasislandwhales.com www.mysticseacharters.com 800.221.7117 your lapel—a Market tradition. the large lock for maintenance at the base of the space needle 360-378-5767 or SKAMANIA.com another somewhat ickier and barnacle scraping,360-854-2599 revealing is such a great photo op that 888-589-4253 www.ncascades.org www.sea-quest-kayak.com tradition near the Market at post cell phones, sunglasses and the museum has professional alley, is the Market theater gum other “treasures” boaters have photographers stationed there Whe Yo G Wall. gross? Well actually, yes. dropped overboard. this annual to snap surreal portraits or give 2013 WHEN cnn dubbed it as one of the draining also reveals the tunnels free tips on the best places to YOU GO ADS World’s germiest attractions. used to fill the locks with water grab them yourself. try to see it STACKED FOR PAGE 45 16 scenic Washington state 2013

MYSTIC SEA CHARTERS Mystic Sea Charters Guaranteed Whale ADVENTURE QUEST Sightings, Five star KAYAKING TOURS rating! See the whales, Whale-watching kayak the wildlife and the San tours in the prime orca Juan Islands aboard the whale waters. Day trips classic 100ft. Mystic Sea. to Lime Kiln Whale Watch Excellent indoor and Park and camping expedi- outdoor viewing, tions to outer islands. onboard naturalist, marine Expert guides, small mammal education focus. groups, families welcome. 1-800-308-9387 360-378-5767 or www.mysticseacharters.com 888-589-4253 www.sea-quest-kayak.com

ORCAS ISLAND ECLIPSE CHARTERS Cruise aboard world famous “Orcas Express” for great whale watching & historic lighthouse tours. Professional naturalists. 8368 Orcas Road Orcas, WA 98280 800-376-6566 www. orcasislandwhales.com at night, when the displays are lit and it is even more fantastic than during a daytime visit. also, the center house got a makeover and is now the seattle center armory. the carnival fare is gone (sorry, orange julius lovers), but the easy vibe remains. the armory is a great place to grab anything from a wood-fired bagel (eltana) to a basmati rice bowl (Bigfood). it’s now a perfect refueling stop for excursions to the seattle children’s Museum, the science center, Key arena or the many other venues here. seattle center just celebrated its 50th birthday and is entering middle age brilliantly.

the Chihuly Exhibition hall and glasshouse should be at or near the top of your “to do” list while at the Seattle Center. photo courtesy chihuly garden and glass

Get real close to animals at Woodland Park Zoo! Ryan Hawk Ryan

Woodland Park Zoo is located just minutes north of downtown Seattle. Open daily 9:30 a.m. to 4:00 p.m., October - April. For information on Real Close tours, call 206.545.2022 or contact our tourism office [email protected]. Visit www.zoo.org for directions and information.

ScenicWA.com 17

WoodlandPark_SW13_1_2h.pdf the jetSonS meet SeAttle, the movie StAr kurt cobAin Finally, an excellent way to knit no spot marks the juncture of many of seattle’s iconic spots old and new seattle more together is with a silver-screen perfectly than where the seattle tour of the city. here’s a pre- center Monorail meets the seattle visit suggestion: have experience Music project and a “shot in seattle” film festival science Fiction Museum. (we recommend a slumber party the famously controversial with plenty of popcorn and building housing the museum viewing Sleepless in Seattle, The was designed by architect Frank Fabulous Baker Boys, Singles, gehry; it looks like someone Say Anything and, of course, It fused a few chihuly sculptures, Happened at the World’s Fair, melted a guitar over the top of starring elvis and the monorail). it all, and then punctured it with download reel life in seattle When You Go a Monorail tunnel. Within the (www4.seattle.gov/filmoffice/ Save 43% off admission eMp, find everything from the docs/map.pdf), for a self-guided to Seattle’s 6 must-see attractions with Seattle command chair from the starship cinematic tour of seattle’s silver- CitypASS. you’ll skip enterprise, to a stratocaster screen spots. see the Sleepless most ticket lines, too. For more information destroyed by Kurt cobain. it’s in Seattle houseboats (a ride and to purchase a perfect convergence of pop the ducks tour takes you right the deco style of the Monorail stands in booklets or vouchers culture and promises to transport by them), the places where stark contrast to Frank gehry’s design for visit citypass.com. the Experience Music project. any sci-fi or music geeks into a elvis rocked and rolled, and photo howard frisk state of bliss—especially if they the apartment that housed the arrive via Monorail! 20-somethings in Singles.

space Needle seattle Aquarium 43% 6 famous attractions Argosy Cruises harbor Tour Pacific science Center ONLY Ages 4-12 - Good for 9 days $ $ - Skip most ticket lines As applicable,74 prices include washington49 state sales tax and/or city of seattle admissions tax. Buy at these attractions Connect with CityPASS (888) 330-5008 or citypass.com

eMP Museum your choice of woodland Park Zoo or The Museum of Flight

18 scenic Washington state 2013 Found in the South Sound there is a world to explore between Seattle and here’s a radical idea: next time you’re hankering tacoma. for a day-cation or are flying to or from Washington via Sea-tac Airport, book an extra day or two nearby, and poke around the communities from Seattle Southside to tacoma (www.seattlesouthside.com). there’s far more to this place than the 33 million jet passengers a year coming and going. Visitors can touch historic hydroplanes, experience outer space or stroll the world’s largest private collection of automobiles. they can bury their toes in the sand and watch the sun slip behind the Olympic Mountains. they can hit a smokehouse that will have them eating with their hands, or order a martini at a local institution that would impress Sinatra.

tAcomA nArroWS bridge ScenicWA.com 19 Airways Brewing Company in Kent (or its bistro if kids are in tow) for craft beers like Final Departure and Sky Hag IPA.

All kinds of eats Franchises abound here, but if you want to eat like a local, try one of these culinary adventures. Quarter Chute Café at Emerald Downs is where the groomers and jockeys eat. Come for breakfast and watch thoroughbreds parade by the picture windows on their way to training. Caveman Kitchen in Kent has been making meat delicious with smoke for 40 years and is a secret local carnivore spot. Stuck waiting for a red-eye flight? Cab over to Thirteen Coins. This darkly ambient restaurant is open 24/7, serves delicious surf and turf standards, and has cocoon-like bar chairs that have sheltered weary travelers since 1967. Finally, Copper Leaf at Cedarbrook Lodge is so passionately local, Executive

LeMay: America’s Car Museum in tacoma courtesy lemay car museum. Chef Mark Bodinet grows veggies and cultivates a mushroom patch on the transportation museums grounds of the lodge. These morsels end put the AWe in Awesome up sublimely prepared and plated at this Maybe it’s the proximity to Sea-Tac award-winning restaurant. Airport or maybe it’s the restless nature 2013 11th Annual of Pacific Northwesterners, but the Save lots of time to play Studio tour cities south of Seattle contain many For folks who prefer speeding, flying monuments to movement. Defy gravity or floating, this region is home to September at the Museum of Flight, and boldly go a whirlwind of active attractions. 21-22 & 28-29 where many astronauts have gone before Experience free fall without jumping at their new Space Shuttle Trainer. out of a plane at Tukwila’s iFly, a Studios Open 10am to 5pm If skimming across the water at 200 vertical wind tunnel where anyone mph in a boat powered by a helicopter can experience flight. engine is more your speed, take in the Carve some figure eights or play Hydroplane and Raceboat Museum in a round of putt-putt golf at the Kent Kent, the only museum in the country Valley Ice Centre. Wild Waves in Federal solely dedicated to thunderboats. Way has added zip lines and high The newest addition divers doing stunts to its already to the travel museum mad mix of roller coasters, wave triangle is LeMay pools, lazy rivers and death- America’s Car Museum defying waterslide drops. in Tacoma. The can’t- PGP Motorsports Park in Kent Gala Opening Reception miss-it building is is go-carting for the hardcore: Friday, September 20 curved like a hood Its Italian-built racing carts 4pm to 8pm scoop, and contains can reach speeds of 50 mph. Historic Train Depot one of the biggest Speedsters 15 years old and 210 Railroad Ave public collections of up can rent and fly around the Centralia, WA automobiles in the world. different tracks. Younger folk can Top off a day of geeking out take a required safety class, and then ARTrailsofSWW.org on transportation with a visit to drive fast.

20 scenic Washington state 2013 Federal Way Zen-out in our great gardens Public gardens in this region are a mini tour of the Pacific Rim. Experience the four essential elements of a Chinese It’s Naturally Unique garden—water, stone, plants and Discover the Natural Beauty architecture—at The Chinese Garden at South Seattle Community College. of Federal Way Its Knowing the Spring Courtyard was hand built by Chinese artisans; the swooping roof lines and serene plantings within will transport you across the Pacific. The Highline SeaTac Botanical Garden features the Seike Japanese Garden in addition to a rose garden, an iris testing bed and a sensory garden. Plus, it’s right under a runway approach at Sea-Tac, so the low-flying jets add sound and spectacle. Centrally located between Seattle and Tacoma, Federal Way offers a wealth of The Weyerhaeuser corporate campus opportunities to explore nature at its finest. Bird-watch along the West Hylebos Wetlands nature trails. Hike and bike forest trails or beach-comb at Dash in Federal Way is home to the Pacific Point State Park. Explore the world-class Rhododendron Species Botanical Rim Bonsai Collection, a display of and PowellsWood Gardens, and marvel at the living art of the Pacific Rim more than 50 bonsais, some far older Bonsai Collection. Grab fresh fruit and flowers at the Farmers Market. than the state of Washington. Also on campus is the Rhododendron Species Federal Way’s economical accommodations and convenient location to Botanical Garden, which is absolutely Mount Rainier, Mount St. Helens and the Olympic Peninsula make it stunning when blooms peak around the perfect place to base your Western Washington travels. Mother’s Day. Soos Creek Botanical Garden Come stay and play in Federal Way! and Heritage Center in Auburn is West Hylebos Wetlands a newcomer on the public garden 253-874-2005 scene in this region. A 500-foot-long www.hylebos.org perennial border, a heritage center Rhododendron Species Botanical Garden with displays about this area’s farming 253-661-9377 www.rhodygarden.org history, and a well-stocked nursery PowellsWood Garden make Soos Creek a perfect spot to 253-529-1620 while away a few hours on a Saturday. www.powellswood.org Paciﬁ c Rim Bonsai Collection Saltwater beaches Abound 253-924-5206 www.weyerhaeuser.com/Company/Bonsai Dash down to Dash Point State Park Federal Way Farmers Market in Federal Way where you’ll discover 253-261-8157 wide expanses of sandy beach, camping www.federalwayfarmersmarket.com and 11 miles of trails to explore. The Courtyard by Marriott boardwalk at Redondo Beach in Des 253-529-0200 Moines is the perfect spot to linger as www.courtyardseattlefederalway.com the summer sun sets. Hampton Inn & Suites Federal Way 253-946-7000 Saltwater State Park is another place www.seattlefederalwaysuites.hamptoninn.com to get a beach fix, with more than a thousand acres of trees, trails and sandy PLAN beach. Rumor has it an ax is buried YOUR beneath a tree somewhere here; park founders did it to symbolically “bury VISIT! the hatchet” on the rivalry between For more tourism information, Seattle and Tacoma. Ask a ranger. go to www.visitFW.org or call 253-838-2605. CityofFederalWay_SW13_2-3v.pdf

ScenicWA.com 21 tacoma Art Museum (left) courtesy tacoma art museum; Washington State history Museum and Museum of glass in the background (right). photo stephen matera

top it off in tacoma Second fiddle to that city to the north no longer, Tacoma is a bustling urban Take the World-Renowned center that still feels homey. Check out the city’s Museum District. These BOEING TOUR places are not only key parts of Tacoma’s downtown core, they are key shapes in the skyline. The Cone (The Museum of Glass), the Dome (Washington State History Museum) and the Curve (LeMay- America’s Car Museum) are hard to miss markers in the local landscape. Also be sure to visit the Children’s Museum of Tacoma, the Tacoma Art Museum, and the Foss Waterway Seaport. Hungry and in a hurry? Frisko Freeze on Division is a legendary local burger takeout hut. Abundant seafood-and-view restaurants line Ruston Way. Also, don’t miss Tacoma’s Stadium SEE OUR SUPER District, home to the W.W. Seymour Botanical Conservatory, and Stadium High School, a splendid 107-year- old school perched on a cliff above Commencement Bay that bears a striking MODELS resemblance to Hogwarts. It’s possible to get so busy in the WORK THE RUNWAY. cities south of Seattle that you miss that 800.464.1476 • Futureoﬄight.org • 8415 Paine Field Blvd • Mukilteo • WA Space Needle photograph entirely. Don’t From I-5 North or South, take Exit 189 to State Hwy 526 West worry; we won’t tell anyone–that’s what’s postcards are for.

22 scenic Washington state 2013 A Retail Odyssey Our Backroads Insider explores the best exits for shopping success. by Anne Erickson

I’m the kind of traveler who avoids retail in favor of random. As a result, I’ve dragged my family to many funky spots with which they were less than thrilled—like Starbuck, Washington: 75 miles of detour that culminated in a couple of farms, a closed diner and a sign that did indeed say “Starbuck” (“You owe me a white chocolate mocha” was the refrain from the backseat). So when I got the assignment to explore shopping opportunities along I-5 between the Canadian border and Lynnwood, I knew I needed help. I recruited my sister from Los Angeles because she’s sassy and my 13-year-old daughter because I needed to atone for previous road trips.

ScenicWA.com 23 then doubling back puts you at the less crowded north entrance). At the entrance, international Flair blaine, birch bay a family happily posed for snapshots in Exit 276 NExt Exit: and bellis fair ShOppiNg front of a sign—this is a destination- shopping trip for a diverse population of That urge satisfied, we got back to our deal seekers from throughout the Pacific original plan and drove all the way up to Northwest and Canada. the end of I-5. 276 is the last exit before The stores at this open-air mall (grab Canada. Travelers passing over the border for more than 48 hours can shop eading north on Interstate-5 your jacket) are in the high-end range; at the duty-free shops in Blaine offering we began our shopping odyssey shoppers prowl for finds at Burberry, alcohol, tobacco, fragrances and jewelry. with the idea of heading up Kate Spade and Juicy Couture. My sister Hnorth to the Washington/U.S. border found gifts at Gap, while my daughter bellis fair and stopping at retails hot spots as we coveted Uggs at Journeys. Then we Exit 256 traveled south. headed out, patting ourselves on the The closest big shopping back for hitting this mall early enough to stop is Bellis Fair Mall at Exit 256, 20 avoid the crush. That was when we heard miles south of the border in Bellingham. open air couture the dull roar coming from the Coach It was so crowded my companions Seattle premium Exit 200 store. That was when the sales lady threatened to use the kiddie train in outlets in tulalip handed us the 30 percent off coupon. the mall as a taxi but decided against As soon as we saw parking spaces at That was when reason abandoned us. it when the conductor informed them Seattle Premium Outlets, we knew we had A half an hour later we emerged from the ride would cost $7. Instead they had to abandon our original idea of speeding the store aglow with three new purses. their brows shaped at Macy’s, one of up to the Canadian border.We bailed off My non-smoking sister fanned her the mall’s anchor stores. Target, Kohl’s, of northbound I-5 at Exit 200 (signs say flushed cheeks. “I need a cigarette,” JCPenney and a theater also flank this to use Exit 202, but overshooting and she muttered. mall, making it a go-to spot for families.

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You’ll enjoy savings on · Fitness center · Free parking & shuttle Looking for legendary Spirits,LynnwoodTourism_SCWA13 Wine, Beer, Tobacco, 1_6v.pdf shopping? Come to Fragrances,Cosmetics, · Complimentary Wi-Fi Lynnwood, and visit Alderwood Lifestyle Watches, & so much more! · Pet friendly Center with over 175 · Meeting space for 10 to 600 people shops and restaurants Currency Exchange available featuring the latest · Outdoor Covered Patio with Firepits fashions and unique and Swanky Seating gifts. Stay overnight so · Voted Best Place to Stay in Bellingham, you don’t have to do it Best Happy Hour and Best Cocktail all in one day. Rates in Lynnwood are 40% less · Located in heart of City Centre than Downtown and parking is free! 20 - 12th Street 714 Lakeway Drive (I-5 Exit 253) Bellingham, WA 98229 Blaine, WA 98231-4029 www.LynnwoodTourism.com 888-671-1011 or 360-671-1011 360-332-5223 or call 425-670-5040 [email protected] for more information www.dutyfreeamericas.com www.TheLakewayInn.com

24 scenic Washington state 2013 DutyFreeAmericas SW12 1_6v.pdf BWLakeway SW13 1_6v.pdf

BWLakeway SW13 1_6v.indd 1 2/12/13 9:27 AM ScENic dEtOuR NExt tRip tempting detour one of Washington’s biggest shopping centers. The seafood dinner at Anthony’s Sunset Brett Baunton Exit 255 mt. baker highway and the fireplace blazing at the north If there’s one activity that could have before our next stop off Exit 229. There’s entrance gave us a second wind. caused us to bail on this mission, it is not a lot of cover between The Outlet As we powered through H&M the lure of Mt. Baker. Legendary for Shoppes at Burlington, so fortify with a and Urban Outfitters and escaped snowboarding, world-record snowfall warm beverage. Nordstrom by ducking under the and awesome summer hikes, this exit Vancouver, B.C.-based Lululemon metal door as the store closed, all we tried to lead us astray but we stayed Athletica was on my sister’s list—she’s a really wanted was more time and more true to our purpose and sojourned on. fan of its yoga-inspired workout wear. disposable income. We wrapped up I found a canvas shirt at Filson for my at Daiso Japan, where we purchased a stepdad for just $37. The Nike outlet lucky cat statue, a scrubbing cloth for antiques to interested my daughter enough for a the shower, a hanger with panda faces trek through the blustery night, but after on it, a set of fake eyelashes, and a bowl Boutiques that we were ready for a meal and some with “I eat a lot” printed on the side. bellingham Exit 250 warmth. We could have slipped indoors Grand total: $5. fairhaven for some shopping at nearby Cascade Lakeway Drive. Speaking of Sojourn, Mall, but we had one more region to hit we discovered a really cute little before closing time. next exit retail roadtrip: clothing and jewelry shop by that home name in downtown Bellingham. The final rest Stop downtown core is filled with hipster- grand plan We had mobbed four malls in 12 hours. Alderwood mall to-kitschy shops and eateries. A nice Exit 181 And I learned that a single interstate, stop at Woods Coffee on Holly Street lynnwood a handful of good deals, and two game near the old town antique district, After a little less than an hour of driving companions can make for a hell of a provided a welcome respite from our south, Exit 181 took us to Alderwood, road trip. day’s journey. And get this, there was a rocket ship in the parking lot across the street… no kidding.

fairhaven/ Exit 253 chuckanut drive Continuing just a couple miles south, we encountered the charming little village of Fairhaven. It has a lot of historic significance to the region and is filled with 1890s flair. Boutique shops, a great bookstore called Village Books, and restaurants aplenty line the streets. There is a cruise terminal at the edge of town where you can catch a ride to the San Juan Islands or a ferry to Alaska. Fairhaven sits at the northern entrance to Chuckanut Drive, a national scenic byway, so if you want to take a break from freeway driving, this is one humdinger of an option and will rejoin I-5 at Burlington. good sports the outlet Shoppes Exit 229 at burlington Fortunately I bought my daughter that white chocolate mocha I owed her

ScenicWA.com 25 c olvillec hehalis chinook dosewallips d uckabush d uwamishh ama h amaKlickitat l ummiMakah Methownezperce the nooksackokanogan puyallupQuileute Native Quinaults auk seattlesemiahmoo State s huksan s kagits kokomish s kookumchuck s kykomish s nohomish s noqualmie s pokanes quaxin s tillaguamish s uiattle suquamishsumas t acomat ulalip WallaWallaWapato WhatcomWishkah Wynoocheeyakima

“She Who Watches” (“tsagaglalal”) native American pictograph overlooking the Columbia River near horsethief Lake; Columbia hills State park, Columbia River gorge, Washington. photo greg vaughn 26 scenic Washington state 2013 the names of our indigenous tribes fill this land along with the people and traditions they carry. no other state in the nation has the culture of the coASt cutoff near Sekiu to Lake Ozette, hike more major cities with native Go to Neah Bay, home of the Makah out to Ozette Beach, and then go to the american names than Washington. Tribe, for easy surf breaks at Hobuck Makah Museum in Neah Bay to see the these names illustrate how deeply Beach Resort and a one-of-a-kind artifacts recovered from the site of the native culture is woven into the day hike to Cape Alava, Washington’s oceanfront village. fabric of this state’s past and extreme northwest tip. This is also the Further south along Washington’s present. Whether staring into the takeoff point for hiking legendary Shi coast is La Push, home to the Quileute eyes of “she Who Watches” on Shi Beach, named best nature beach Nation. Whaling and fishing sustained the banks of the columbia river by the Travel Channel. Visitors to the the tribe for thousands of years, and or screaming down a waterslide Makah’s land must purchase a $10 per today thanks to a pop culture blip called at the great Wolf lodge — car recreational pass (it lasts a year). Twilight, La Push has been shoved into which is majority owned by the They’re available at many businesses in the national spotlight. But once the confederated tribes of chehalis— Neah Bay, including Washburn’s General movies are a memory, La Push will still many Washington experiences Store where you can browse the wares have wild beaches, abundant saltwater are linked to native culture, at the northwestern-most mercantile fishing, and a vibrant tribal culture that whether you know it or not. in the continental United States. For a has nothing to do with werewolves culture/nature double feature, take the and vampires.

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traditional events demonstrate countless centuries of culture and history. Seafair powwow at the Daybreak Star indian Cultural Center, Seattle the legendS of the WeSt that illustrates just how intrinsically what they’d like to see in a cultural Anytime someone shucks an oyster or the Northwest’s past and present center, and the result is the Tulalip digs clams on the Hood Canal, they’re are linked. The city of Seattle took story told in the words of the Tulalips experiencing what sustained native its name from Sealth, a leader with themselves. Listen to recordings of tribal people here for centuries. Some tribes Duwamish and Suquamish ancestry storytellers in an interactive longhouse, in this area even built floating shelters who was both a fierce warrior and and see artifacts like historic canoes and they could move with the tide—and the skilled negotiator. Born in 1780, he baskets stained with decades of berry food. And there are those names again. could have been a young lad playing gathering. A 50-acre nature preserve Rivers called Hama Hama, Duckabush on the beach to witness the arrival of surrounds the center with salmon-bearing and Dosewallips. Further south, near Captain George Vancouver in 1791 and streams, mature evergreens and plants Shelton, the Squaxin Island Tribe lived to experience the settlement of the important to native culture. Museum Library and Research Center city that bears his name. Sealth died in Salmon are one of the things that shows why the Squaxin are called “The Suquamish—his father’s homeland—in eastern Washington and western People of the Water.” 1866. His gravesite, which was renovated Washington tribes have in common. The Mima Mounds near Little in 2011 in a joint effort by the Suquamish This important food source is a vital part Rock are uniform humps that dot the and the city of Seattle, recounts Sealth’s of tribal traditions on both sides of the prairie south of Olympia. The origin life in two story poles and retains the mountains. Salmon habitat protection of these mounds remains a mystery, marble gravestone that was erected and restoration are paramount to all but one thing is certain: Layers of ash in 1890. Both native and non-native Washington tribes, and they work jointly are present in the mounds, because pilgrims still regularly visit the resting with federal and state government to native people cleared the prairie with place of this important leader. manage salmon fisheries. Walk newly controlled burns and then harvested Nearly every beach, forest and river dried-up reservoirs and see salmon the roots of the Camas that thrived in western Washington can tell you returning to a newly freed river at the there after the competing plants were something about the first inhabitants of Elwha Dam removal sites. Or visit the scorched. Visit in spring for the best this state, but sometimes an interpretive Leavenworth Fish Hatchery in spring, wildflower show, and see the purple center can condense the story. And if and watch tribal families harvesting Camas that still thrives today. you visit just one, make it the Tulalip spring run Chinook from traditional Chief Sealth’s grave in Suquamish on people’s new Hibulb Cultural Center. wooden platforms, much like their the Kitsap Peninsula is another spot Tribal elders and leaders were asked ancestors did.

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ScenicWA.com 29 Butte—served as a scouting post near the battle site in Rosalia. The 3,600-foot summit offers stunning views of the gorgeous Palouse wheat fields—think “amber waves of grain.” Near Walla Walla, the Whitman Mission National Historic Site and Fort Walla Walla offer a glimpse at the conflict filled past of this region. In northeast Washington, the Spokane Tribe called themselves “Children of the Sun” long before tourism boosters grabbed ahold of the concept. Rent a houseboat at Twin Rivers, and appreciate that placid Lake Roosevelt was once a rushing river that provided salmon and life to its people. A visit to the Grand Coulee Dam is not complete without a trip to the Colville Tribal Museum to learn about the human and cultural impact of the dam. “grAndfAther cutS looSe the ponieS”, creAted by ArtiSt dAvid govedAre, SitS on A ridge high Above the columbiA river neAr vAntAge. SR-155 winds out of Coulee Dam and

roseMary Washington roseMary through hills strewn with monumental boulders left behind by glaciers. the lAndS of the eASt Watchful drivers will see Root Diggers The desert plateaus, river valleys and out in a field—a sculpture by Colville rolling hills of eastern Washington are artist Virgil “Smoker” Marchand. A rest Indian country in every sense of the stop in Nespelem features yet another phrase. The city of Yakima is named Marchand sculpture—Chief Joseph, for the Yakama Nation (spelled with who led a small band of Nez Perce under an “a”)—a people whose original lands pursuit by the U.S. Army from Oregon stretched from Canada down to The into Canada before being exiled to the Dalles. By all means, visit The Yakama Colville reservation. Nation Cultural Center (the structure is a But Indian culture in Washington is a replica of a Yakama winter lodge), one of living, breathing thing. Stand on a beach the older tribal museums in the state. But along the Paddle Journey route (2013’s consider staying in a teepee at the Yakama journey is Paddle to Quinault) and listen Nation Resort RV Park and heading as singers welcome each canoe. Touch into the hills to glimpse the wild horses a cedar’s rough and that roam Yakama lands. For horses useful bark, and of a different color, look for the herd thank the next galloping atop a ridge just out of Vantage. salmon that feeds Grandfather Cuts Loose the Ponies is a you. In Washington, sculpture depicting an Indian creation discovering Indian tale of the Grandfather Spirit freeing country is not a horses, which represent free will, from matter of where you the basket from which all life springs. look; it’s a matter One of eastern Washington’s most of how you see what famous geological features—Steptoe surrounds you. anne ericKson

30 scenic Washington state 2013 power trips Stunning spots

that generate a We’re the number one hydroelectric producer in the nation, and we come in sixth on wind lot of juice. power. here’s the really good news: Many energy-producing places are in stunning parts of the state, and most offer free tours. to hang your head over the edge of the grand coulee dam or lay your hand on one of those mighty windmills along i-90, read on.

hydro hangouts The Grand Coulee Dam is the Big Kahuna of destination power plants. Built during the Great Depression and completed in 1944, it’s still the biggest hydroelectric plant in the United States and among the largest concrete structures in the world. Coulee Dam, the company town surrounding the dam, occupies three counties (Grant, Okanogan and Douglas) and is home to the world’s largest man-made sand pile, a leftover from dam construction. Backwaters from inundated portions of the Columbia River by our hydroelectric dams are now some of Washington State’s best recreational destinations. Lake Roosevelt, which stretches 151 miles upstream, and Banks Lake downstream from Grand Coulee are both prime playgrounds for boaters and campers. The Grand Coulee Dam Visitor Center is open year-round, but for a closer look take the free tour that’s available April through mid-October—it’s the only way to actually get on the dam. Our guide spun such a dramatic tale of this grand dam that the bus erupted into spontaneous applause at tour’s end. (www.usbr.gov/pn/grandcoulee/) Boundary Dam is literally the end of the road in northeast Washington. Despite its remote location on the Pend Oreille River, Seattle City Light welcomes visitors to the dam between Memorial Day and Labor Day and provides free lakefront camping with a good dam view (sorry, couldn’t be helped). Launch a boat on the reservoir behind Boundary Dam to see spectacular waterfalls, beaches and caves that can only be accessed from the water.

Snoqualmie Falls, located in the foothills of the Cascades Range east of Seattle, features the world’s first hydropower plant built completely underground. Begun as one man’s vision to harness the energy of one of the pacific northwest’s most powerful waterfalls, the 112-year-old facility will provide 22% of puget Sound Energy’s self-owned hydroelectric capacity this year. photo jamie and judy wild

ScenicWA.com 31 staggering mountain and lake views. on what was the bottom of Lake Aldwell, Further upstream is Ross Dam, the Elwha Dam’s reservoir. accessible by boat or hike from the highway. Take Seattle City Light’s boat Windmills tour and see the island where the man While driving I-90 from Ellensburg to who built these dams, James D. Ross, Vantage, it’s hard to miss the tall, white kept pet monkeys back in the 1920s. towers with blades spinning in the ever- roSS lAke nAtionAl recreAtion AreA, (www.seattle.gov/light/tours/skagit/) present winds. This is the Wild Horse diAblo dAm Wind and Solar Facility, where free daily jaMie and judy Wild dams destroyed tours (April through November) take The North Cascades Highway (SR-20) Another Washington dam superlative: visitors inside these behemoth wind doesn’t just have massive mountain North Olympic Peninsula is home to turbines. Visitors can pace along a blade views—it’s got three dams, Gorge, Diablo the biggest dam removal project in on the ground for perspective on the and Ross Lake. The smallest, Gorge North America. The demolition of the sheer size of these power generators. Dam, is an easy detour in Newhalem Elwha Dam (completed in 2012) and The nearly 10,000 acres of shrub steppe and can be visited year-round. Walk the Glines Canyon Dam (will be done desert these monoliths stand upon across the suspension bridge to the by mid-2013) on the Elwha River is are open to mountain bikers, hikers Gorge Powerhouse Visitors’ Gallery and expected to restore salmon runs and and hunters if they fill out an access the short, steep hike alongside Ladder return the river to its wild state. A short permit at the center. Wildflowers begin Creek Falls. A colored light show that (wheelchair-accessible) walk off SR-112 blooming in April, and any time of year, bathes the falls in color was recently leads to a viewpoint of what was the the turbines add a surreal touch to the restored, adding a retro vibe for night Elwha Dam. Columbia Gorge views. Visit the pse.com/ visitors. Drive across Diablo Dam and Take a right turn on westbound US- inyourcommunity then select “Kittitas” take in 1920s architecture coupled with 101 after crossing the Elwha, and walk for tour information.

Experience

Natural beauty Wildlife the North Dining Hiking Cascades Diablo Lake Boat Tour Take a Skagit Tour or explore on your own. Explore the beauty, adventure, learning and fun in the North Cascades. North Cascades National Park Enjoy summer learning and recreation. To learn more about what awaits you in the magical www.nps.gov/noca or 360-854-7200 North Cascades, visit www.skagittours.com North Cascades Institute or call 360-854-2589. Connecting people, nature and community through education since1986. www.ncascades.org or 360-854-2589 Photo credits: Rick Allen, David Astudillo, John Harter, Elizabeth Penhollow & NEllen Regier

32 scenic Washington state 2013 peak experience Get the most out of winters in the Evergreen State by heading for the white stuff.

“There’s snow in the mountains!” That’s a phrase that’s music to the ears of many Washingtonians. It appears to state the obvious, but anyone who’s been here during a cold, rainy spell in the fall has seen the magic. The rain stops in the night, the day dawns bright and clear, and mountain peaks that were dark green now gleam white, sporting their first dump of snow. If you listen carefully, you’ll hear, “Woooo-hoooo!” echoing across the state. That’s the cry of native snow lovers, a species that’s nowhere close to extinction in Washington Skiing in the mt. bAker Ski AreA bAckcounty, north since there’s plenty to sustain them. cAScAdeS WAShington photo grant gunderson ScenicWA.com 33 crystal mountain a fireside pint and with age. Three new snowcats carve the has it All then hopping on slopes into corduroy, and now you can Washington has 11 major ski areas the Mount Rainier Gondola for a enjoy a mid-day botana from the new and many more if you count small-town cozy 10-minute ride to the summit. street-style taco truck parked at the base ski hills. The bulk of these are spread At the top, skiers will speed off into area. Ski and board rentals, retail shops and along the spine of the Cascade Range Green Valley or cross over to North restaurants spread out from base to peak with a few notable exceptions tucked Way. Or gear geeks will drop into the round out this friendly resort area. There’s away on the state’s eastern edges. Crystal new RDL (Rossignol, Dynastar, Lange) also a ski school—many a Washington Mountain on the northeast flank of Test Center to demo state-of-the-art kid made their first “pizza” at Discovery Mount Rainier is Washington’s biggest ski equipment. But no skis are required at Crystal. ski resort and often is the first to open to dine at 6,872 feet at the Summit its lifts when the snow arrives. House Restaurant—or to take in the Suffering from a Crystal is also the only Washington magnificent view of Mount Rainier from Seasonal maladay? ski resort to offer abundant on- this spot. We have many other ways to cure all mountain accommodations. They range sorts of seasonal disorders here beneath from condos and standard hotel rooms going Strong at 50! the 49th parallel when the days get short to pension-style, shared-restroom If you visit Crystal during the and the weather gets gloomy. The good arrangements above the very European- 2012-2013 season, bring a present citizens of Conconully beat winter blues feeling Snorting Elk Cellar & Deli. Even or at least sing “Happy Birthday” as by pushing potties down snowy streets if you’re not a skier or boarder, Crystal you wind up Crystal Mountain every January: 2013 marks the 26th is a fantastic winter destination; it Boulevard. This venerable resort is 50 running of Conconully’s Outhouse Races doesn’t get much better than enjoying years old and continues to get better (www.conconully.com/outhouseracing.php).

34 scenic Washington state 2013

CrystalMtn SCWA13 1_2H.pdf WAShington Ski AreAS

49 degrees north chewelah www.ski49n.com 509-935-6649 mount Spokane spokane www.mtspokane.com 509-238-2220 bluewood dayton/Walla Walla www.bluewood.com/pin 509-382-4725 White pass yakima skiwhitepass.com 509-672-3101 mission ridge Wenatchee www.missionridge.com 509-663-6543 Skiing in the cAScAdeS hAS been A fAmily AffAir for generAtionS. StevenS pASS Ski leavenworth Ski hill reSort (Above) photo by jamie and judy wild; leavenworth AlpentAl Ski reSort (top) photo by stephen matera www.skileavenworth.com/locations/ski-hill 509-548-6975 Nothing beats soaking in a hot spring ski. Rangers at the Ridge also lead free Stevens pass as steam rises and snow falls. Intrepid snowshoe tours on winter weekends. leavenworth www.stevenspass.com snow hikers can reserve a soak at remote Workout bonus: Going up requires just 206-812-4510 Goldmyer Hot Springs near North Bend as much skill and sweat as going down loup loup (www.goldmyer.org). Folks who eschew when you’re clinging to a rope tow twisp/okanogan reservations can seek out a soak at (www.hurricaneridge.com). www.skitheloup.com Baker Hot Springs. For a more civilized For generations, families have flocked 866-699-5334 take, try a vintage-style soak at Carson to Leavenworth for the Christmas tree north cascade heli-skiing Mineral Hot Springs Resort or a luxe lighting and other holiday festivities, but Mazama/Winthrop www.heli-ski.com/blog one at Bonneville Hot Springs Resort— to many, the main draw is the tubing 800-494-heli both located in the Columbia River hill at the edge of town. Cross-country mount baker Ski Area Gorge National Scenic Area. skiing and snowshoe trails are also Bellingham/glacier plentiful here in little Bavaria. www.mtbaker.us Smaller Slopes Ice skate outdoors under stars and 360-734-6771 are family favorites snowflakes at the Winthrop Ice and hurricane ridge Want some winter fun on a budget? Sports Rink. And during any wintertime port angeles/olympic national park Consider Washington’s lesser known ski trip to Leavenworth, don’t forget to hurricaneridge.com/ 360-565-3131 hills; Echo Valley in Chelan will set you throw a saucer in the trunk—there’s a the Summit back $25 per adult ticket, and Badger small sledding hill smack in the middle seattle/snoqualmie pass Mountain Ski Area near Wenatchee of town. www.summitatsnoqualmie.com costs a whopping $10. Don’t hole up just because the sun sets 425-434-7669 Hurricane Ridge in the Olympics is early and the weather’s wet and cold. crystal mountain the only ski area in Washington that’s Get outside and enjoy that Washington enumclaw/Mount rainier national park located within a national park, and it’s winter—light therapy works best when crystalmountainresort.com 360-663-2265 also a fabulous place to cross-country it’s reflected off freshly fallen snow!

ScenicWA.com 35 When in Wine Country An insider’s guide to touring vineyards and tasting rooms like a champ.

By AdrIAnnE yOunG

As restaurant owners who live in wine country, Erik—my husband/business partner/driver/master of illusion/chef— and I are required to go wine tasting more often than not. When we travel, we make a point of visiting local wineries, because if wine is a language, each region has it’s own accent. In other words, if we really want to know an area, we taste its wine. Even if we really don’t want to know an area, we taste its wine.

Chefs Erik Cannella and Adrianne young weave food, wine and writing into their everyday. When While we enjoy visiting wineries, wine tasting for us is exactly like watching football on not working their farm, they’re serving dinner at their wine country restaurant, Café Manson. TV—it is either a delightful way to pass the time or pure hell. In both wine tasting and photo top, greg vaughn: rows of wine grapes at football, one’s capacity for enjoying the activity depends on whether one likes the subject sagemoor vineyards along columbia river, columbia valley, washington or if you’re simply there because your spouse has an enthusiasm that will not be tamed.

Here is how we It depends on who is in control approach wine tasting... of the mute button. even when we’d rather The biggest misconception about both wine tasting and football is that you have be watching football. to appear to know what is going on and that you must talk about it endlessly. Oddly enough, the more you know about wine or football, the less you want to talk about wine or football and the more you simply want to let wine or football happen without listening to someone else chatter about it.

36 scenic Washington state 2013 When in Wine Country

Plan to meet your basic needs. No one ever turns on the game without putting the wings in the oven and chips on the table. Why should it be any different when venturing off to a few wineries? Have a meal plan before you have a wine tasting plan. Pack water and a snack because there will be a moment when you’re just not going to want to bother talking about where or what to eat. When we’re in Walla Walla, we pick up cured meats and pickles from Olive Marketplace and Café just in case we can’t get to a lunch spot. In the Chelan Valley, call Fromaggio—a great little cheese shop that will pack you a picnic basket. Many wineries in Washington encourage picnics. Reservations not required but a good idea. If you don’t have a place in mind for dinner, ask around while you’re out wine tasting. When you receive a suggestion that you trust, call and make a reservation right then and there. At 6:30 p.m. wine country restaurants get attacked by wine tasters without reservations, so if you want to eat at 7 p.m., ensure yourself a table. Create a Route. The idea of casually hopping from winery to winery is romantic but, on the whole, More than wine! Be sure to round out your completely impractical. Erik and I find that unless we have a plan, things go awry wine tasting experiences with some of the quickly. When we don’t have a route, we’re either looping around in gravel driveways or local attractions in wine country. horseback riding, white water rafting and golf are all great arriving at tasting rooms that are closed for the day. In the back roads of wine country, ways to spend a few delightful hours between many marriages are tested and countless vacations are threatened. tasting rooms. ScenicWA.com 37 38 scenic Washington STATE 2013 Determine a tasting route that starts furthest away from your starting point and leads you back. Make sure the wineries are open on the day you plan to visit. Washington’s Premier Family Owned Winery We plan for four wineries, which allows for wiggle room if we get a heads-up about a Celebrating 30 years of Great Wines new winery that we must try. Griffin Winery™ ©2012-13, Barnard When in Woodinville, our last stop is always at William Church Winery because it often has appetizers, music or an activity beyond tasting. Plus, it’s right next door All New db GLASS GALLERY to Purple, an excellent restaurant. Live music at Gilbert Cellars on Friday nights in All New TASTING ROOM downtown Yakima is the perfect end to a tasting route because we can sit, relax and All New WINE BAR All New PATIO simply enjoy each other’s company.

©2013, Barnard Griffin Winery Barnard™ Griffin ©2013, TASTING ROOM Or just make one stop. Open Daily: 10am-5pm Nectar in Spokane pours wine from five different Washington State wineries. WINE BAR Tuesday - Thursday: The Tasting Room in Pike Place Market is an excellent option if you’re on the west side 4pm-9pm of the mountains. Friday & Saturday: Noon-9pm Sharing the love. LIVE Music most Here’s a little secret about tasting: It’s OK to share a tasting glass. Most Weekends wineries charge a tasting fee and then refund that fee if you buy a bottle. But Sunday: according to the winery owners we’ve talked to, the tasting fee barely covers Noon-5pm the cost of the wine they’re pouring let alone scraping lipstick from the glass 878 Tulip Lane rims. So it isn’t as if you’re lowering their profit by sharing your flight glass with Richland, WA 99352 your date, and as an added value, you can think of it as foreplay. 509.627.0266 info@BarnardGrifﬁn.com Come fly with me. Don’t like the idea of tasting fees? Alaska Airlines has teamed up with a host of wineries in Walla Walla, Tri-Cities and Yakima Valley that won’t charge you at tasting fee if you present them with your inbound boarding pass. Tasteandtote.com lists the details, but given that on your return trip they won’t charge a baggage fee for a case of wine, it’s worth looking into. If you fly into the Tri-Cities, make a point of getting toRed Mountain’s Fidelitas, where you’ll find the definition of a Washington cabernet sauvignon. Maryhill and Columbia Crest are a must visit for the simple fact that they’re gorgeous and you’ll look gorgeous at the tasting counter. Play against the blitz. Washington Winery It’s a given that you’re going to be outnumbered by the wines you want to try while remaining upright. Here’s our strategy in tasting: We know we like sauvignon blanc, and of the Year -2009 Wine Press NW we know that our friends love malbec. Immediately, we buy a bottle of both and forgo tasting them at the winery. Over 1000 Awards in 10 Years 37 wine portfolio This strategy saves us a tasting fee and eight ounces of wine a tour and sets us up to Tasting Room & Gift Shop spend that eight ounces at dinner. It’s also a great way to compare wineries at leisure. Free Live Music All Summer While I know it seems excessive to open three bottles of malbec at once, with the right friends, it makes for a fantastic dinner party. Open 10am - 6pm 20 minutes on the clock isn’t 20 consecutive real-life minutes. 7 days a week In this sense, winery time and football time are exactly the same. You think you’re going to breeze in for a tasting, and then an hour later, you’re Phone: 877-MARYHILL not any closer to leaving than when you walked into the www.maryhillwinery.com place. For this exact reason, we do not make plans to meet up with friends mid-tasting. There is no possible way of 9774 Hwy 14 Goldendale, WA 98620 knowing when we will be done at a particular winery. ad proofs.indd 1 2/15/13 3:12 PM

ScenicWA.com 39 The only exception to this rule is on Bainbridge Island, When You Go Your guide to where everyone can recite the ferry schedule in their sleep. places I mentioned. Tell the fine folks at Eleven Winery that you have a ferry —Adrienne Young to catch, and they’ll breezily pour your flight with the perfect timing. Olive Marketplace and Café 21 e. Main st., Walla Walla Anything can happen in 9 seconds. 509-526-0200 www.olivemarketplaceandcafe.com There have been tasting tours when Erik and I have seen some highs (Wineglass Cellars in Zillah) and some lows. But All AdventureS Fromaggio rAfting you never know when you’re going to pull up to a shack in the 145 e. Wapato Way, Manson Choose between five 509-888-6452 of the premier rivers in middle of nowhere and find a glass of wine that downright Washington and Oregon www.fromaggiomanson.com States. River Rafting trips changes the way you think about wine. Ventimiglia Cellars are 1/2 day, all day or in Chelan was one such place. One late summer afternoon, we William Church Winery overnight expeditions and lots of fun! drove the gravel road and wound past towers of apple bins to 14455 Woodinville-redmond rd., Woodinville White Salmon, WA 98672 a little shed. It had been a long day and there were certainly 1-800-74-FLOAt 425-482-2510 www. spots with more shade to be had. Less than an hour later, we williamchurchwinery.com alladventuresrafting.com found ourselves dancing, laughing and drinking a red blend that tasted like an amarone. Gilbert Cellars linktoplAy 5 north Front st., yakima That’s the payoff of wine tasting. Like there are field goals 509-249-9049 you’ll never forget watching, there are wineries you’ll never www.gilbertcellars.com forget visiting. While there will be endless commentary in nectar both, the fact of the matter is you can never predict when CAVE B yuRtS near quincy and the gorge Amphitheatre 120 n. stevens, spokane you’ll score. Adrianne Young, ScenicWA.com Wine and Food Insider 509-869-1572 drinknectar.com

The Tasting room Seattle 1924 post alley, seattle 206-770-9463 tastingroomseattle.com

Maryhill Winery 9774 highway 14, goldendale 877-627-9445 www.maryhillwinery.com

Eleven Winery 287 Winslow Way e., Bainbridge island 206-780-0905 www.elevenwinery.com

Fidelitas TourismWallaWalla_SCWA13_1_3sq.pdf51810 n. sunset rd., Benton city 509-588-3469 www.fidelitaswines.com

Wineglass Cellars 260 north Bonair rd., Zillah 509- 829-3011 www.wineglasscellars.com

Ventimiglia Cellars 20 howser rd., chelan 425-466-2788 www.ventimigliacellars.net

40 scenic Washington state 2013 Think 300 days of sunshine adventure escape oasis getaway wine water golf sports gourmet Think Spokane

Seattle Tri-Cities

Kennewick | Pasco | Richland

P.O. Box 2241 Tri-Cities, WA 99302 (800) 254-5824 (509) 735-8486 www.VisitTRI-CITIES.com www.GolfWineCountry.com Okanogan Colville

2 6 4 Whidbey Island 7 Port Spokane Angeles 1 Coulee Dam Seattle 3 Tacoma Wenatchee Ocean Shores 5 Yakima 8 Pullman Long Beach Tri-Cities Walla Walla Vancouver

the road trip might be a national pastime, but it’s been perfected in Washington. there is no better way to explore the expanse hit the of this corner of the country than from behind the wheel with the road leading the way, along the coast and through fields, to the most spectacular sites in the Pacific northwest. there are dozens of Road scenic drives on our map that any state would be happy to boast. For 8 GReat Scenic Road tRipS the purposes of this guide, we have that guarantee adventure is selected our favorite eight. starting with a tour of Puget sound’s ferry always on the horizon. cruises, these trips will show off this state’s greatest treasures, from quaint island life to majestic mountains. as you pass through the lush rain forests and astounding desert landscapes you will find unforgettable landmarks that reveal the history of this land, and you will meet the people who are paving the way for a bright future. Point your headlights to the horizon. there’s a world to discover.

North CasCades highway (washiNgtoN (state route 20) aNd early wiNters spires. Photo42 alanscenic majchrowicz Washington state 2013 1 2

1. Water Byways Hop aboard a Washington State Ferry to tour our most unique (and officially designated) Scenic Byways. paGe 44 2. North puget sound & island loop This section of the Cascade Loop will take 3 you through tiny waterfront communities onto Whidbey Island and by Skagit Valley tulip fields.pa Ge 46 3. pacific Coast Travel our Pacific coastline to get a glimpse of wild, untamed beauty. Seastacks and wide open beaches await at every turn. page 51 4 4. North olympic peninsula From Victorian Port Townsend you’ll follow the Strait of Juan de Fuca to Cape Flattery with a detour to Hurricane Ridge 5 in the Olympic National Park. paGe 56

5. Mt. rainier This road to Paradise may not be paved with gold, but the grandeur and majesty of Mt. Rainier National Park cannot be overstated. Towering waterfalls and thousand year old stands of cedars are just the appetizer. paGe 61

6. sherman pass to pend oreille Country Dig for fossils in Republic then cross one of our highest mountain passes to Washington’s “hidden” treasure along 6 the Pend Oreille river tucked up in the northeast corner of the state. paGe 67

7. Coulee Corridor 7 Gouged out by massive glacial floods a mere 16,000 years ago, this is hands down Washington’s most unique visitor experience. Grand Coulee Dam and Dry Falls are a must. paGe 71

8. palouse scenic Byway Another creation of the Lake Missoula 8 glacial floods, the gentle hills and dales of the Palouse were once mere ripples of the giant river that flowed here centuries ago. A visit to Palouse Falls and a drive to the top of Steptoe Butte should not be Photo credits 1. stePhen matera paGe 75 missed. 2. bart rulon 3. marcus yearout 4. jamie and judy Wild View all our 5. inge johnsson state and 6. donnelly austin 7. john marshall national 8. bigstock Scenic Byways. scenicwa.com 43 sCeNiC Byway 1. WateR ByWayS Washington is a The naval state with abundant offiCer opportunities to seattle to Bremerton experience water, and afloaT: Same views the fun isn’t just reserved as “The Classic”, but they last longer during this 60- for folks who own boats. minute crossing. Keep an eye out Washington has the largest for sea lions sitting on the buoys state ferry system in the outside Rich Passage. United States, and those aboard: Puget Sound ubiquitous green-and-white Naval Shipyard workers and boats are an excellent budget servicemen, commuters living cruise—no route in the state on the Kitsap Peninsula. Blend in q costs more than $7.70 to with locals by bringing reading ferry material for the long boat ride. walk on and ride round trip. Plus, every seat in the house ashore: Bremerton’s newly has a great water view. Each parked-out waterfront is adjacent to its downtown core. Tour the cruise ferry run in the Puget Sound USS Turner Joy, a Vietnam-era reflects the personality of the Navy destroyer, or learn what community it serves. life’s like aboard an aircraft carrier guide www.wsdot.wa.gov/ferries at the free Puget Sound Navy Museum.

The ClassiC The Charmer q seattle to edmonds to Kingston Bainbridge island afloaT: All those afloaT: Sunrise buoys north of the paints the Olympics Edmonds dock mark pink; sunset does an underwater park for divers. the same for the Seattle skyline. Salmon fishermen in all manner Watch cruise ships, cargo vessels of watercraft near both ferry and tour boats navigate the waters docks in late summer are always of Elliot Bay. entertaining. aboard: Commuters; the ones aboard: Shift workers at with shorts and blinking lights Boeing’s Everett plant, road attached are bike commuters. trippers heading to the Olympic Blend in with locals by bringing Peninsula. Blend in with the a laptop. locals by riding a motorcycle onto ashore: The Great Wheel, Pike the boat. Place Market and the Olympic ashore: Edmonds has Sculpture Park on the Seattle excellent sandy beaches, side. On Bainbridge, walk about a restaurants on the waterfront quarter-mile up from the ferry, to and boutiques. In Kingston, grab find on-trend Winslow. Shops like a lunch at J’aime les Crepes or Danger (jewelry and furniture) handcrafted ice cream in flavors and Petit and Olson (clothing, like fig and goat cheese at Mora. cool stuff) have that off-the- beaten-path cachet, and Greg Atkinson’s Restaurant Marché washiNgtoN state Ferry headiNg to the saN JuaN offers local fare prepared with a islaNds. washiNgtoN state Ferry routes are part oF French accent. the state highway systeM, aNd MaNy are desigNated oFFiCial state sCeNiC Byways. Photo stePhen matera

44 scenic Washington state 2013 scenic Byways water Byways

When You Go The Thriller The odyssey The GeTaway Port Townsend Anacortes to the West seattle to Vashon island/ to Keystone san Juan islands southworth and Tahlequah : afloaT Weather blowing afloaT: You may see to Point defiance in through the Strait of Juan members of resident afloaT: Nearby Blake de Fuca, and the ferry passing Orca pods in the late Island State Park has paddle-in through a narrow passage at the spring and summer. Inter-island campsites and splendid views Keystone dock, can make this an walk-on travel on this route of Seattle. exciting ride is free. aboard: Intrepid Vashon Islanders Adventure Quest aboard: Truckers, residents, aboard: Tourists and who have figured out how to live in the KAyAKing tours and tourists in the summertime. country and work in the city. Blend in Whale-watching kayak extremely relaxed islanders. Blend tours in the prime orca Blend in with the locals by in with the locals by stuffing your with the locals by being friendly—this is a whale waters. Day trips knitting, busking or critiquing car with provisions from the neighborhood ferry. to Lime Kiln Whale Watch the captain’s vessel-handling skills Park and camping expedi- mainland—bonus points for an ashore: Bike onto the boat and enjoy tions to outer islands. while docking at Keystone. appliance tied to the roof. Look Expert guides, small a vigorous pedal to Vashon, about five groups, families welcome. ashore:Port Townsend is the cooler than the other tourists by miles south of the ferry dock. In town, the 360-378-5767 or arts hub of the North Olympic walking on with your kayak. Hardware Store serves “great good food” in 888-589-4253 Peninsula. Walk the downtown : a building that once housed, you guessed www.sea-quest-kayak.com ashore Don’t overlook and discover all things boating at Anacortes in the hurry to get it, a hardware store. Further up the road in the Northwest Maritime Center. to the San Juan ferry terminal: Burton, duck into the Vashon Island Coffee Visit Fort Casey and hike the Downtown is a perfect lunch Roasterie for a dose of caffeine and island beaches of Ebey’s Landing near stop, and to really get the lay of culture. Utilize the ferry at the south end of Coupeville on the Keystone side. the land, drive up to Cap Sante the island, and this trip becomes the scenic Park for a 360-degree view. route to Tacoma—that ferry delivers riders to Point Defiance. The islander lopez island is the first stop on Mukilteo to clinton the route—locals call it “Slowpez.” Mystic seA chArters This is the most laid-back and afloaT: Calm waters Spike Mystic Sea Charters rural of the San Juans. Lopez Guaranteed Whale in the lee of Whidbey Sightings, Five star Village has a handful of eateries Africa Island and brand new jets rating! See the whales, and shops to explore; cyclists the wildlife and the San from Boeing’s nearby production flock here for the annual Tour de Juan Islands aboard the facility overhead. classic 100ft. Mystic Sea. Lopez in April. Excellent indoor and aboard: Commuters, outdoor viewing, shaw island is the smallest island commercial trucks and folks onboard naturalist, marine with a ferry stop, and if you mammal education focus. seeking island life. Blend in with visit, don’t be startled if you see 1-800-308-9387 the locals by taking advantage of a nun running a tractor: Shaw is www.mysticseacharters.com Island Transit. home to Our Lady of the Rock, a ashore: Mukilteo Lighthouse Benedictine monastery that farms Park, Diamond Knot Brewery to support itself. and Alehouse, and an Ivar’s san Juan island bustles with on the mainland. Also, a Join the Adventure! activity in the summertime. rich collection of aviation Aboard a classic windjammer and see the Friday Harbor is the hub of this San Juan Islands from the deck of our attractions nearby might justify archipelago, and a jumping-off historic sailing vessel. a short drive. Clinton is the point for whale watching, kayak gateway to Whidbey; enjoy the Day and Sunset Sails, Extended excursions and island tours. Voyages, Special Events, Weddings and orcAs islAnd waterfront park at the ferry Private Charters. eclipse chArters landing and merchants selling orcas island is the largest of the Cruise aboard world famous “Orcas Express” everything from homemade San Juans and home to Moran for great whale watching soap to barbecue nearby. A State Park, Washington’s fourth 360.378.2224 & historic lighthouse tours. largest—don’t miss the views of Professional naturalists. loop home via Deception Pass is Spike Africa recommended if you have the time. the surrounding islands from 8368 Orcas Road sails from Friday Harbor Orcas, WA 98280 atop Mount Constitution. 800-376-6566 www.SanJuanSchooners.com www. orcasislandwhales.com

scenicwa.com 45 Tulips to Tidepools & a touch of the mountainS

sCeNiC Byway 2. noRth puGet Sound & iSland loop

enjoying the entire cascade loop requires a 2–3 day commitment so choosing just the western portion may be a better fit for your schedule. this snohomish county, whidbey island and skagit county loop, a great day trip, will take you through seaside communities, tulip fields and into the foothills of the cascade mountain range.

skagit Valley tulip Field iN at MouNt VerNoN duriNg the aNNual tulip FestiVal iN april. Photo inge johnsson

46 scenic Washington state 2013 scenic Byways North puget sound & island loop

region’s reputation as an aviation hub. of the same name that’s famous Tour the mighty Boeing plant at the for loganberry wine and pie. Find Future of Flight Aviation Center, another patchwork of farms on Ebey’s or visit Historic Flight at Kilo 7 and Landing—some have been here since the warplanes of the Flying Heritage the mid-1800s. Today this narrow Collection for a historical perspective on saddle of island is the first national taking to the air. historic reserve in the United States. Stop in nearby Coupeville, one of relax iN laNgley the oldest towns in Washington, and The Mukilteo ferry delivers cars to pick up a walking tour map of the Whidbey Island every day on the half- more than 50 buildings listed on the hour. After getting off the boat in tiny National Registry of Historic Places. Clinton, follow signs to the village of Langley, which overlooks the Saratoga Visit the “Big” City Passage and has eateries, bookstores, Penn Cove, the body of water on Fidalgo islaNd, Mt erie oVerlook

charles gurche galleries and coffee roasters. Langley the east side of Ebey’s Landing is the is also on the Whale Trail; the town is home of the famously tasty Penn start iN Mukilteo one of the best land-based gray whale– Cove mussel. Look for them at many Money Magazine ranked Mukilteo watching spots in the state. Look for Island groceries; most restaurants that ninth in its 2011 list of best towns to them February through May, and if you serve seafood have them on the menu live in. Between the Puget Sound views, see one spout, don’t forget to ring the as well. Oak Harbor is Whidbey’s the waterfront park, and charming town’s whale bell. biggest city, thanks to nearby Naval downtown, it’s easy to see why the Air Station Whidbey Island. The town town ranked so high out of a field of soak iN the history has a wonderful, driftwood-strewn 100. Mukilteo also delivers for anyone Continue northward on Whidbey waterfront and hosts Driftwood Day interested in learning more about this through Greenbank, home to a farm every September. Participants use

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SCTB - Scenic Washington Ad 1/3 Page Square - 4.75” x 4.875” 1/2013 scenic Byways North puget sound & island loop

sNow geese FloCk Near Mt. Baker eVery wiNter. Photo By Bart rulon

planninG tipS

This loop involves a 20-minute ferry ride from Mukilteo to Clinton, so check the ferry schedule before setting out (www.wsdot.wa.gov/ ferries/). Bring hiking boots, beach gear, and a cooler to cram full of mussels and farm stand produce. aSk the inSideR diStance: 136 miles Richard duval tRavel time: 5 hours, but this Photo ops abound: trip could nicely fill a full day. Mukilteo Lighthouse BeSt time: Any time of the year. next to ferry to April is the best for seeing fields of Whidbey Island’s flowers near La Conner. Farmer’s Markets; the view from Comfort’s BeSt foR: Beaches and winery; beach pics at lighthouses, acres of farmland, and Ebey’s Landing; late logging towns in the foothills. This light on Coupeville; drive serves up Washington State Deception Pass (fog icons from ferries to forests and on bridge is way delivers travelers back into the city cool); farm country in time for dinner. in Skagit Valley; boat and driftwood pics on Camano Island. www.scenicwa.com/blog/ guide/shutter-stops

48 scenic Washington state 2013 whatever they find on the beach to create a sculpture, and winners get trophies made of—you guessed it—driftwood! Nearby, the PBY Memorial Foundation Naval History Center features a behemoth The Shortest Distance to Far Away ® amphibious seaplane and other displays that put Whidbey Island’s proud military history in context.

Cross to la CoNNer The crown jewel of Whidbey is Deception Enter to Pass; the dramatic cliffs spanned by the two bridges are so scenic that people often win an island park their cars alongside the road and getaway! recross the bridges on foot to better see the roiling water below. Take the short hike down to Bowman Bay on the north side of Deception Pass to put toes in the sand one final time on this road trip. After SR-20 meets Fidalgo Bay and takes a hard right at the light, look for another right turn onto Reservation Road and head south—this road will take you through the Swinomish Indian Free maps, guides, lodging and event info at Reservation and into picturesque La WhidbeyCamanoIslands.com Conner via its iconic bridge. According to legend, it’s orange because that’s the color the primer paint was, and the locals liked the bright color so much they just kept it that way. Adding further confusion, it’s called the Rainbow Bridge. La Conner has long been home to a charismatic mix of fisherfolk, loggers and artists. explore skagit’s Best Farm roads grid the Skagit Valley, and they all pass big barns, turn-of-the- century farm houses and fields of flowers in spring—it’s hard to pick a bad one. But leave La Conner on Chilberg Road, and then take a right onto Best Road, which will take you past the Rexville Grocery. Stop here. There’s a generous counter with stools for visiting, milk chocolaty Aero bars, escargots in the freezer and a tiny coffee roaster on the counter. Settle in, chat up the owners, Stuart and Joyce Welch, and have a “Why not quit my job and move here?” moment. Best Road becomes Fir Island Road; duck off into miniscule Conway to do some browsing before getting on the interstate. Located at the end of town, The Conway Muse is a former dairy farm that now houses one of the neatest music venues in the area. Good food and service are guaranteed.

scenicwa.com 49 courtesy oF boeing

Future oF Flight aViatioN CeNter aNd BoeiNg tour to grasp the size of the Boeing everett plant, look for an employee entrance. see that dot down there? Now take a moment to let your mind adjust to the scale. pretty 2013 WHEN YOU GO ADS big huh? on the tour, see jet fuselages MIGHT BE A PICK-UP in flight before they have wings, learn how manyWhe parts a Yo 747-400 G has (6 million) and watch workers pedaling around the Whe Yo G Whe Yo G Whe Yo G Whe Yo G Save 45% off admission Whe Yo G Whe Yo G plant onto bikes—required Seattle’s 6 must-see transportation for negotiatingattractions the with biggest Seattle building by volume inCityPASS. the world. You’ll get skip advance tickets for the tourmost atticket www.futureofflight.org. lines, too. For more information see our adand on topage purchase 22. booklets or vouchers

R visit citypass.com. E M

IM W S A R MYSTIC SEA CHARTERS LA BY TO Mystic Sea Charters PHO ORCAS ISLAND Guaranteed Whale SKAMANIA LODGE KITSAP TOURS NORTH CASCADES ECLIPSE CHARTERS Sightings, Five star Just 45 minutes from Just a ferry ride from INSTITUTE ADVENTURE QUEST Cruise aboard world rating! See the whales, Portland, in the Seattle, Kitsap Tours takes KAYAKING TOURS famous “Orcas Express” the wildlife and the San Columbia River Gorge, you beyond the city to North Cascades Environ- for great whale watching mental Learning Center, Whale-watching kayak Juan Islands aboard the Skamania Lodge is explore Bainbridge Island Owned by Upper Skagit Indian Tribe tours in the prime orca & historic lighthouse tours. classic 100ft. Mystic Sea. naturally perfect for and the Kitsap Peninsula. an eco-friendly retreat in whale waters. Day trips Professional naturalists. Excellent indoor and meetings, vacations Take the ferry from the heart of the national park on Diablo Lake, to Lime Kiln Whale Watch 8368 Orcas Road outdoor viewing, and getaways. Pier 52 in Seattle. Fly fishermen and idyllic family farms are among the common sights you’ll Park and camping expedi- onboard naturalist, marine offers learning adventures Orcas, WA 98280 1131 SW Skamania More information and for people of all ages encounter throughout Snohomish and Skagit Counties. Stillaguamish River tions to outer islands. 800-376-6566 mammal education focus. The coast Lodge Way reservations online at Expert guides, small throughout the year. shown above. top photo stephen matera; bottom photo anne erickson www. 1-800-308-9387 Stevenson, WA 98648 www.KitsapTours.com groups, families welcome. orcasislandwhales.com www.mysticseacharters.com 800.221.7117 360-378-5767 or SKAMANIA.com 360-854-2599 888-589-4253 www.ncascades.org wrap it up with retail www.sea-quest-kayak.com It’s always fun to wrap up a long road More Rewards... trip with a little retail therapy. Try 2013 WHEN Whe Yo G take the detour Snohomish for charming antique stores YOU GO ADS All The Time! Dip onto southbound I-5 just long and boutiques in old brick buildings, STACKED FOR enough to take Exit 208 to Arlington, or relax over an order of Mick Jagger Show Your Card a small town tucked in a fork of the Fries (sweet potatoes with brown sugar, PAGE 45 for Great Deals! Stillaguamish River (the Stilly if you’re naturally) on the riverfront deck of • Two Hotels local). The charming downtown is home the Fred’s Rivertown Alehouse and to Bistro San Martin, a well-reviewed watch others shop. Or if something a MYSTIC SEA CHARTERS • Las Vegas-Style Casino Mystic Sea Charters • Three Restaurants fine dining gem that serves world- little more urban is calling your name, Guaranteed Whale ADVENTURE QUEST inspired local cuisine—reservations are head west from Snohomish via SR-96 Sightings, Five star KAYAKING TOURS • Headline Entertainment rating! See the whales, Whale-watching kayak a good idea. If you want to see where to intersect with I-5 at Mill Creek and the wildlife and the San tours in the prime orca Membership is FREE! Sign up on your first visit. some of the ingredients come from, take then south to Lynnwood, a retail mecca. Juan Islands aboard the whale waters. Day trips classic 100ft. Mystic Sea. the Red Rooster Route, a self-guided Find everything from the delightfully to Lime Kiln Whale Watch On I-5 at Exit 236 Excellent indoor and Park and camping expedi- ramble to local farms. Follow Jordan specific (The Root Beer Store) to the outdoor viewing, tions to outer islands. One Hour North of Seattle onboard naturalist, marine Expert guides, small Road along the river to Granite Falls, all-encompassing (Alderwood, one of mammal education focus. groups, families welcome. theskagit.com • 877-275-2448 the gateway to the magnificent Washington’s largest malls), and pick up 1-800-308-9387 360-378-5767 or Casino opens at 9 am daily. Must be 21 or older with valid ID. Mountain Loop Highway. something to take home. www.mysticseacharters.com 888-589-4253 www.sea-quest-kayak.com 50 scenic Washington state 2013

3. pacific coaSt sCeNiC Byway

at first glance… it looks simple. there it is beckoning blue on the left side of your map—the Pacific ocean. But if it were just a matter of pointing the car west and driving, this travel planner wouldn’t exist. washington’s coast does not have a major highway Pacific Coast hugging its every curve like another coast to the Hidden Coast south we won’t mention here. Cranberry Coast

seCoNd BeaCh iN olyMpiC NatioNal park at low tide. Photo inge johnsson scenicwa.com 51 scenic Byways pacific Coast

Washington’s coastline plays hard to get, planninG tipS teasing with a glimpse of sea and then jogging eastward along a prime oyster Grab rain gear and a change of bay. The reward for patient travel? shoes—and maybe a clam shovel. A love affair that will last the rest of your life. diStance: • Olympia to Aberdeen: 49 miles take a hike • Hidden Coast: 41 miles • Cranberry Coast: 48 miles To truly explore the roadless parts (add another 48 miles if of Washington’s north coast, grab a traveling on to the Pacific backpack, a tide chart, and a camping Coast Scenic Byway) permit from Olympic National Park tRavel time: 3 hours for each beach, a full day for real exploration. and get hoofing. You’ll use fixed ropes to climb over headlands, watch seals hunt BeSt time: Year-round, and room rates are generally a bit lower in breaking waves, and touch images during the winter storm-watching carved in stone by people who lived season—one of our personal here long ago. favorite times to visit. This area, the Olympic Coast National BeSt foR: Beachcombing, Marine Sanctuary, is the longest stretch Rainforests, Waterfall Trail, of virgin coastline in the United States. Sand Castles, Kite Flying, Fishing, Lighthouses, Surfing, And it’s a bucket-list hike. (See north Clam Digging Olympic Peninsula for more about Washington’s north coast). If a resort sounds better than a rucksack, US-12 from Olympia is the fastest drive to the most ocean options. Aberdeen is the junction for two different journeys with one thing in common: They’re Washington State scenic byways that offer many opportunities to plunge bare feet into the chilly Pacific. aSk the inSideR Jennifer coleman ride oN a retro road The big decision is do we stay & play on the beach all day or climb to the Head north through Hoquiam to find lighthouses? Explore the bunkers of the Hidden Coast Scenic Byway. Al’s an old military fort or hike the coastal Hum-Dinger, right where SR-109 jogs forest? Don’t miss Long Beach & Cape Disappointment State Park. hard left, fries a tasty burger if anyone’s www.scenicwa.com/blog/guide/ hungry. Hundreds of thousands of family-travel-insider shorebirds feed at the Grays Harbor liNktoplay National Wildlife Refuge during spring migration. April and May are the best times to see these birds darken the sky with their numbers. Ocean Shores was a big deal back in

FUN AT OCEAN SHORES the 1960s. Nightclub owners flew stars Watch this and let the planning begin! in for grand openings; Pat Boone took up residence and hosted celebrity golf tournaments. Today this town retains that ’60s vibe—maybe it’s those retro signs on the way into town. Drive the beach, paddle the freshwater canals, or rent a scooter. The Quinault Beach Resort & Casino is a spot to drop some discretionary dollars, and campers pack nearby Ocean City State Park during loNg BeaCh peNiNsula. Photo jamie and judy wild razor clam digging weekends.

52 scenic Washington state 2013 Copalis has remote appeal and plenty of mom-and-pop motels with pathways through the dunes to the ocean. Visitors often erect driftwood markers or put up glow sticks at night to mark the trail where they emerged, so they can find their way back after walking this stretch of beach. Another curious feature of this place: ghost trees. These long dead gray snags along the Copalis River are ancient evergreens that died when flooded by salt water after an earthquake in 1700. No adult drive to Copalis is complete without a stop at the Green Lantern Pub. LongBeachPen_SCWA13 2_3v.pdf During razor clam digs, expect to find guys selling clam guns in the parking lot Timeless. and diggers dressed in garbage bags for waterproofing playing shuffleboard and Invigorating. enjoying pitchers. The wide, sandy beaches continue as 109 winds northward. Camp on Delicious. the waterfront or hole up in a yurt at Pacific Beach State Park. In January, look for glass balls that have been “planted” on the beach. In September, celebrate Kelper’s Day. At road’s literal end is the village of Taholah and the Quinault Indian Nation. Visit www.quinaultindiannation.com for information about the tribe, guide services and the Quinault Tribal Museum.

CraNBerry harVest

CraNBerry Coast sCeNiC Byway Choose SR-105 from Aberdeen to discover the Cranberry Coast. Westport, a fishing town on Grays Harbor, has a lively downtown and marina—walk down the dock to Float 8 for fresh 800.451.2542 seafood and incredible smoked tuna at the Seafood Connection. Or walk up funbeach.com the 135 steps spiraling to the top of the Grays Harbor Lighthouse.

scenicwa.com 53 In Grayland, many of the cranberry discover this region’s boomtown past on bogs planted more than a century ago a walking tour of historic Oysterville. by Finnish farmers still produce. Learn Visit on Fourth of July to see the Long more about the red berry we consume Beach Peninsula in fine form. It starts every Thanksgiving at the Furford quietly with a little parade through Cranberry Museum (named for a Ocean Park and then explodes into an harvesting implement designed by orgy of festivities on the beach. With Julius Furford). so many people blowing things up, it’s This byway then curves along the hard to distinguish the official fireworks north shore of Willapa Bay, the second display from campers lighting their own largest estuary on the Pacific Coast and up and down the beach. an excellent oyster producing body of Motels abound for those wanting to water. In Raymond, all of those critters avoid camping amid the shelling on the and people along the road are actually beach. Adrift Hotel is a fresh twist on the sculptures; this town has more than 200 standard beachfront bedroom and even pieces of metal art. The byway ends at provides bikes to pedal into town. South Bend, a little bayside town with The impressive Astoria-Megler Bridge one foot in logging, the other in seafood, crosses the Columbia River into Oregon’s and plenty of places to launch a boat, easy-access coastline. Lewis and Clark picnic on the shore, or slurp a Willapa buffs may want to visit Clark’s “dismal Bay oyster. little nitch” not too far from the bridge’s entrance. It provides a great view of let the tides guide you the Columbia River shipping lanes and True road warriors can continue on Astoria, Oregon, on the opposite bank. US-101 through South Bend and catch loNg BeaCh, iNterNatioNal kite FestiVal

jamie & judy Wild the last of the Pacific Coast Scenic Byway. take your tiMe This stretch never looks the same twice, Don’t plan to see all that our rugged thanks to the tides. Curves are constant Pacific Ocean coastline has to offer companions as are shorebirds and elk in one trip; it just isn’t possible. Take Detour onto SR-103 for the Long tiny bites of this apple and plan plenty Beach Peninsula, a perfect stretch of of time to lollygag. We know that beach (“the world’s longest,” as the Washington’s wild beaches will always sign lavishly claims) with a strong call you back because there’s always one personality. Grab saltwater taffy and skid more discovery around the next bend in go-carts in the town of Long Beach, or the road. 2013 WHEN YOU GO ADS MIGHT BE A PICK-UP Oceanside Resort & RV Park Whe Yo G · Oceanfront cabins Whe Yo G Whe Yo G Whe Yo G Whe Yo G Whe Yo G Save 45% off admission Whe Yo G · Watch whales & seabirds to Seattle’s 6 must-see attractions with Seattle · Launch a kayak or surfboard CityPASS. You’ll skip · Tribal ceremonies most ticket lines, too. · Lonesome Creek Store & gift shop For more information and to purchase · 71 units, all with kitchens, 43 of booklets or vouchers

R which are cabins visit citypass.com. E M

IM W · Pets with restrictions S A R MYSTIC SEA CHARTERS LA · Campground and full service RV Park BY TO Mystic Sea Charters PHO ORCAS ISLAND Guaranteed Whale SKAMANIA LODGE KITSAP TOURS NORTH CASCADES ECLIPSE CHARTERS Sightings, Five star Just 45 minutes from Just a ferry ride from INSTITUTE ADVENTURE QUEST Cruise aboard world rating! See the whales, Portland, in the Seattle, Kitsap Tours takes KAYAKING TOURS famous “Orcas Express” the wildlife and the San Columbia River Gorge, you beyond the city to North Cascades Environ- Whale-watching kayak for great whale watching Juan Islands aboard the Skamania Lodge is explore Bainbridge Island mental Learning Center, tours in the prime orca & historic lighthouse tours. classic 100ft. Mystic Sea. naturally perfect for and the Kitsap Peninsula. an eco-friendly retreat in whale waters. Day trips Professional naturalists. Excellent indoor and meetings, vacations Take the ferry from the heart of the national park on Diablo Lake, to Lime Kiln Whale Watch 8368 Orcas Road outdoor viewing, and getaways. Pier 52 in Seattle. 330 Ocean Drive, P.O.Park Box and 67 camping expedi- onboard naturalist, marine offers learning adventures Orcas, WA 98280 1131 SW Skamania More information and La Push, WA 98350tions to outer islands. mammal education focus. for people of all ages 800-376-6566 Lodge Way reservations online at Expert guides, small throughout the year. (360) 374-5267 www. 1-800-308-9387 Stevenson, WA 98648 www.KitsapTours.com groups, families welcome. Toll Free: 1-800-487-1267 orcasislandwhales.com www.mysticseacharters.com 800.221.7117 www.quileuteoceanside.com360-378-5767 or astoria Bridge SKAMANIA.com 360-854-2599 888-589-4253 www.ncascades.org www.sea-quest-kayak.com 54 scenic Washington state 2013 Quileute SW13 1_6v.pdf 2013 WHEN Whe Yo G YOU GO ADS STACKED FOR PAGE 45

LewiS and cLark SLept here. The last miles of this drive follow the footsteps of Lewis and Clark. Explore the interpretive center at Cape Disappointment to see how difficult those tracks were to make. A series of mural- sized “timeline” panels guide visitors through the westward journey of the Lewis and Clark Expedition using sketches, paint- ings, photographs and the words of Corps members themselves. The center also features a short film presentation, a gift shop and a glassed-in observation deck with fabulous views of the river, headlands and sea. Additional displays focus on local maritime and military history. www.parks.wa.gov/stewardship/ lewisandclarkcenter/

LighthouSe tourS A couple of nearby lighthouses, Cape Disappointment and North Head, offer guided tours and make for fun excursions. Hours vary seasonally, call ahead (360) 642–3029. PHOTO GREG VAUGHN

Discover Unforgettable Grays Harbor, WA

50 Miles of Pristine Beaches

Hiking, Walking & Camping A destination for all seasons… where memories are waiting to be made!

World-class Sport Fishing

Come visit Grays Harbor on the beautiful Washington coast. Home to a temperate rain forest, breath-taking views, and over 50 miles of beaches.

Need more info? Find us Online at www.visitgraysharbor.com or call 1-800-621-9625. Abundant Wildlife

scenicwa.com 55

GraysHarbor SW13 1_2h.pdf The ulTiMATe rainforeStS & miSty moutainS

sCeNiC Byway 4. noRth olympic peninSula

if the washington you desire is the one with old Pacific Coast growth forests dripping with moss, crystal-clear lakes, misty mountains, and chainsaw art in front yards, this is your drive. Pack a raincoat and toss some rubber boots in your trunk and discover the place that put the “green” in evergreen state.

waterFall at olyMpiC NatioNal park. Photo deBorah richardson

56 scenic Washington state 2013 scenic Byways North olympic peninsula

port towNseNd Crowds drop away, replaced by Olympic Mountain views and salt spray once the car crosses the Hood Canal Bridge on SR-104. A detour north along SR-19 will lead through Chimacum Valley, a place that’s rediscovering its farming roots with artisan cideries and organic farms. Duck into the big yellow building with a chick painted on it—The Chimacum Corner Farmstand—for locally grown goodies. Follow signs to Port Townsend, an eclectic and artistic community with personality in spades. The entire town is on the National Register of Historic Places, but it is best known for its salty nature—attend the Wooden Boat Festival in September, enjoy a beer on the beach at the Pour House, or grab a slice from Waterfront Pizza, a longtime PT institution. Fort Worden State Park offers campgrounds, a long stretch of sandy beach, a lighthouse and concrete military bunkers to explore. the raiN shadow Located in the rain shadow of the Olympic Mountains, Sequim is known as the driest area in western Washington and is home to the state’s biggest Lavender Festival. Hot air balloons converge here in September, drawn by the still air and flat topography. The fertile Dungeness Valley is ripe with U-pick everything during the summer months and offers a perfect panorama of the Olympics spreading along the southern horizon. aValaNChe lilies aloNg hurriCaNe ridge iN washiNgtoN state’s olyMpiC NatioNal park duNgeNess spit inge johnsson Curving more than five miles out into the Strait of Juan de Fuca, Dungeness Spit is the longest natural sand spit in the United States. Beach hikers can go inside the New Dungeness Lighthouse at the end of the spit and see unobstructed views of the strait and the Olympics. The spit is part of the Dungeness National Wildlife Refuge, an area populated by ducks and seabirds, harbor seals, sea lions and the occasional whale. port aNgeles This small town sandwiched between the Olympic Mountains and the sparkling Strait of Juan de Fuca bills tall ships glide past ViCtoriaN port towNseNd john marshall

scenicwa.com 57 scenic Byways North olympic peninsula

itself as “The Authentic Northwest.” coves here are surfable. One not-so- For an authentic Port Angeles secret spot that’s been discovered by experience, stop at Swain’s for standup paddle-boarders is Crescent outdoor gear and a bag of 25- Beach; you’ll share these waters with cent popcorn. Then enjoy some leaping salmon in the fall. seafood at one of the many eateries Continue west through the downtown: Michael’s Seafood and fishing towns of Clallam Bay and Steakhouse has fine dining in an Sekiu to where SR-112 becomes the intimate basement space. Next Door Cape Flattery Tribal Scenic Byway Gastropub has outdoor seating and during its last 12 miles, culminating tasty steamer clams; don’t miss the at Neah Bay. This entire stretch fine bigfoot portrait inside. is pure Olympic Peninsula. Walk Events range from the Crab through the fir forest and along Festival in October to the Juan de remote beaches under the pearly Fuca Arts Festival over Memorial sky to a favorite salmon hole; repeat Day weekend. Port Angeles is also an until relaxed. international port. The Coho, a car ferry that travels to Victoria, British lake CresCeNt Columbia, sails from here several Continuing west on US-101, the times a day. Another spit, Ediz Hook, byway is sandwiched between the olyMpiC NatioNal park, sol duC Falls aNd Bridge encircles this town’s harbor; drive or oVer the sol duC riVer. Photo jamie and judy wild steep foothills of the Olympics bike it for a superb view of this town and the crystal-clear waters of nestled beneath the peaks of the Lake Crescent. Historic Lake Olympic Mountains. Another popular draw: free ranger-led Crescent Lodge (built in 1916) has snowshoe tours every weekend at 2 p.m. both accommodations and fine dining: hurriCaNe ridge (snowshoes provided). Franklin D. Roosevelt stayed here in the Olympic National Park’s famed late 1930s and decided to sign Olympic Hurricane Ridge is 18 miles south and strait oF JuaN de FuCa National Park into existence. To see Lake 5,200 feet up from Port Angeles. Day sCeNiC Byway Crescent like a local, pick a calm day to hikers can find marmots and deer, Lovers of true back roads should take paddle across from the lodge. On the meadows full of lupine and glacier SR-112 out to the very corner of the other side is the Spruce Railroad Trail, lilies, and jaw-dropping views all the continent. Along the 61 miles of the an excellent bike and ramble path with way to Canada. In winter, Hurricane Strait of Juan de Fuca Scenic Byway is detours into old railroad caves. This side Ridge Ski Area (the only Washington the Joyce General Store, selling candy, also has deep water that glows turquoise ski area within a national park) is cast iron pans and bait for 100 years blue, and Devil’s Punchbowl, a cove with packed with skiers and sledders. and counting. Some of the beaches and cliffs that are perfect for jumping.

planninG tipS

diStance: 186 miles Seattle to Kalaloch, via the Bainbridge Island Ferry. tRavel time: Give yourself 5 hours, more if you want to explore as you go. This is an ideal weekend trip from the Puget Sound area. Port Angeles is a good central place to overnight. BeSt time: Year-round. BeSt foR: This trip requires a ferry ride from the Puget Sound region, unless you want to drive through Tacoma, which may be the preferred route in the summer. During the summer season, Friday afternoon ferries heading out of Edmonds and Seattle can have long waits (an hour and a half to two hours). Similarly, when everyone heads back on Sunday, the eastbound ferries from Kingston and Bainbridge Island can have long lines. Leave the city early on Friday and return late (after 6 p.m.) on Sunday. More fun and less waiting for ferries!

58 scenic Washington state 2013

scenic Byways North olympic peninsula

ruBy BeaCh, olyMpiC NatioNal park inge johnsson

twilight CouNtry the 0.8-mile Hall of Mosses trail if time Destinations for Memories Southwest on US-101 is the town of is short. There’s also a visitor center, to Last a Lifetime Forks, a pilgrimage site for fans of camping, and an outfitter along the Stephanie Meyer’s Twilight novels. But way that offers guide services and, yes, long before vampires and werewolves raingear for sale. hit town, Forks was—and still is—a popular place for hikers and sport kalaloCh aNd ruBy BeaCh anglers fishing for salmon and rainbow US-101 veers toward the coast now, then trout in the Hoh, Sol Duc, Bogachiel southward along chain of beaches within on the roAd To PArAdise and Calawah the Olympic National Park, some of the Rivers. To visit last protected wilderness beaches in the La Push, home of contiguous United States. the Quileute Tribe, Ruby Beach has a meandering creek, and access Pacific garnet-colored sand and shallow pools beaches, detour to play in during low tide. Kalaloch north on SR-110. (pronounced clay-lock) is a wide flat beach with campsites and the popular hoh raiN Forest Kalaloch Lodge perched on the bank Less than an hour south of Forks above. Bluff-side cabins and a restaurant on US-101, take the cutoff to the with spectacular views of the Pacific astonishing Hoh Rain Forest, one of the draw visitors from all over the world to last old-growth temperate rain forests this superlative beach. Log Cabin Resort in the Western Hemisphere. This place liNktoplay measures annual rainfall in feet (14 a year is the average), and the wildlife olympicnationalparks.com viewing and birding opportunities are facebook.com/olympicnationalpark abundant. Several hikes of varying 866-776-5422 difficulty and length will lead you HOH RAINFOREST, OLYMPIC PENINSULA through the moss-draped canopy—try Get a virtual interpretive tour of the rain forest.

60 scenic Washington state 2013 on the road to Paradise

5. Mt. RainieR roAd trip

Some mornings, Mount Rainier looks so close to Seattle you’d swear someone put casters on it and scooted it northward during the night. Sorry, the mountain is actually 80 miles away. It’s so huge it just This Scenic Road Trip connects directly to looks like it’s sitting right outside your hotel window. both the Chinook But this trip will get you breathtakingly close to that Pass All American Scenic Byway and the famous snow cone mountaintop. Plus, you’ll get to White Pass National post the quintessential Pacific Northwest brag on Scenic Byway. Facebook: “On the road to Paradise!” PhOtO chaRleS guRche

ScenicWA.com 61 the FuN starts iN the Foothills Nisqually’s gateway springs, and this stop is a good precursor Starting near Tacoma—whose name comes has its owN rewards to the awesome beauty that lies ahead. from Tahoma, the Native American name National park signs should be massive, for Rainier—strike out for Eatonville, rough-hewn and span the roadway—the waterFalls aNd sCeNiC a small town nestled in the foothills of Nisqually entrance to Mount Rainier Vistas are eVerywhere Mount Rainier. There will be wildlife along National Park doesn’t disappoint. The By now the road name has changed this trip, but to be sure, Northwest Trek entrance has a certain woodsy gravitas; to Paradise Road. And what would a Wildlife Park has trams and walking tours It feels like the gateway to the fifth road to Paradise be without spectacular and guaranteed sightings of everything national park established in the waterfalls? The two stars here are from cougars to caribou. They’ve recently United States. Christine and Narada Falls, dramatic added zip line challenge courses. Like most roads into mountains, two-tiered beauties that are both easily Elbe is a great stop if you have a Thomas this one follows a river—in this case, accessible from the road into the park. the Tank Engine fan in the car. The the Nisqually. Longmire was park Look for a turnout for Christine four Mount Rainier Scenic Railway chugs on a headquarters in 1899 when the park was miles from Longmire. 14-mile trip through nearby foothills year- established. Today the stout stone-and- Narada is three and a half miles further round. Honk and wave to (or stop and timber original administrative building along and has the delightful habit of wander through) artist Daniel Klennert’s still stands and houses a museum devoted making mist rainbows in the right light. whimsical metal sculptures—they’ve been to the park’s history. Short trails weave In the winter, check for ice climbers on turning heads along SR-706 for years. past everything from homesteads to hot the frozen upper fall.

62 scenic Washington state 2013 scenic Byways Mt. rainier

CoMet Falls, Mt. raiNier NatioNal park

View FroM trail at paradise Visitor charles gurche CeNter, Mt. raiNier NatioNal park inge johnsson

planninG tipS

Bring hiking shoes, cameras and the kids. This drive has big nature, big fun and the biggest peak in the Cascade Range. diStance: 185 miles tRavel time: 4.25 hours aSk the inSideR A couple of days would be ideal, nate Watters though this drive can be done in An extra day to hike one very long day. Unicorn Peak just off BeSt time: Spring, summer, early of Stevens Canyon Rd. fall. Stevens Canyon Road closes will reward you with in the winter, but the road to incredible views of Paradise stays open year-round— Mount Rainier all the unless a storm temporarily shuts way down to Mt. Hood it down. in Oregon. Bring your crampons if you go BeSt foR: Nature hikes, Grove before July. of the Patriarchs and near endless scenicwa.com/blog/ photo ops of Mt. Rainier. guide/intrepid-insider

scenicwa.com 63 64 scenic Washington state 2013 scenic Byways Mt. rainier

paradise liVes up to its NaMe Paradise is surrounded by the iconic images of the national park: the meadows painted with lupine and lily in the summer; a lake that reflects the mountain so perfectly it’s as if a Crest Trail Lodge Seasons Motel photographer designed the landscape; the vintage grey-timbered Paradise Inn; AAA Rated 27 units nestled in the AAA Rated 49 unit Motel community of Packwood and of course Mount Rainier. This area · Refrigerator and microwave in is the heart of the park—climbers setting every room · Microwaves and refrigerators · Wireless internet out for the summit, families taking day · Wireless internet · Flat screen TVs drives. Tourists from all over the world · Flat screen TVs · Night Caps · HOT continental breakfast daily converge here, and it’s easy to see why. · HOT continental breakfast · Located between Mt. Rainier & available every day in the lobby Mt. St. Helens from 7-10 am. raiNier is worthy oF reFleCtioN If you manage to pry yourself away from the over-the-top beauty of rest C SeaSonS Paradise (don’t forget a picture for your t rail MOTEL Facebook post), there are more treats LODGE further down the road. Take Stevens Crest Trail Lodge Seasons Motel Canyon Road (closed winters) toward 12729 US HWY 12 Junction Hwy 12 and 7 Ohanapecosh, and in just a few miles, Packwood, WA 98361 Morton, WA 98356 you’ll encounter one of the definitive 360-494-4944 Phone 877-496-6835 photo opportunities of Rainier towering www.whitepasstravel.com www.whitepasstravel.com behind the appropriately named Reflection Lake. CrestTrail SW13 1_6v.pdf SeasonsMotel SW13 1_6v.pdf Continuing down the hill, pull over for a dizzying glimpse of Box Canyon, a deep, mossy gorge carved by the Cowlitz River; it’s just three-tenths of a mile of paved pathway and a perfectly scenic leg-stretching stop.

old growth giVes New liFe Drive another winding 16 miles along Stevens Canyon Road and stop at the Alta Crystal ResortThe Perfect Little Mill Village Motel Grove of the Patriarchs Trail, just before Mount Rainier and you cross over the Ohanapecosh River. The Perfect Little Mount Rainier Resort AAA Rated 32 unit Motel Even if you don’t need to stretch your Crystal Mountain Resort Recommended by AAA, Fodors,The Perfect Little · Refrigerator and microwave in legs or make a rest stop, this one-and- Frommers and Trip Advisor.Recommended by AAA, every room a-half-mile loop through a cathedral of Fodors,Mt. Frommers Rainier Resort& Trip Advisor · Heated pool and hot tub · Wireless internet old growth trees shouldn’t be missed. · Charming chalet suites and romanticRecommended by AAA, · Flat screen TVs Fodors, Frommers & Trip Advisor. honeymoon cabin · Heated pool & hot tub · HOT continental breakfast These cedars, firs and hemlocks grew Heated pool & hot tub. Charming · Evening activities like bonfires· Charming and chaletBBQs suites & available every day in the lobby to such a ripe old age—more than 1,000 chalet suites & romantic honeymoon · Recreation lodge & field.honeymoon cabin from 7-10 am. years old—because they’re on an island · Bonfires,cabin. Evening BBQs, activities recreation like bonfi lodge res · Next to Sunrise entrance.& BBQs. Recreation lodge & fi eld. in the middle of the river, protected · Next to Sunrise entrance Next to Sunrise entrance. ill from forest fires. A suspension bridge M crosses onto the island and into this Village land of giants. Find a quiet place to sit MOTEL and breathe deep. Studies are showing 68317 State Route 410 East that time spent in deeply forested places 68317 State Route 410 East Mill Village Motel Greenwater, WA 98022 is good for health—linger in this grove Greenwater,800-277-6475 WA 98022 210 Center Street E 800-277-6475www.altacrystalresort.com Eatonville, WA 98328 with these ancient denizens and add [email protected] 360-832-3200 some years to your internal clock. [email protected] www.whitepasstravel.com

AltaCrystal EW10 1_6v.pdf scenicwa.com 65 AltaCrystal SW12 1-6v.pdf MillVillage SW12 1_6v.pdf scenic Byways Mt. rainier hot spriNgs oFFer Muddy respite The nearby Ohanapecosh Campground has forested sites along the river. Don’t come expecting to luxuriate in the oN a Clear day you CaN see Ohanapecosh Hot Springs—there was a Mt. st. heleNs to the south. resort back in the ’60s, but the park has let the Most reCeNtly aCtiVe VolCaNo iN the CoNtiNeNtal the springs return to their natural state. u.s. CaN Be explored at Hot water does burble out of the Mt. st. heleN’s NatioNal park. ground in this area, but immersing Photo Brett Baunton yourself in it would require being OK with a mud bath as well. a recreational hub for hikers, skiers, lakeside CaMpiNg aBouNds snowboarders and snowmobilers as Riffe Lake is a big reservoir that offers CiVilizatioN awaits your returN well as campers and anglers. If you all kinds of water play. Ike Kinswa State Southward, the road joins US-12, but pass through on Memorial Day or Park, four miles north of Mossyrock, you won’t be shocked by civilization Labor Day weekend, you’ll see tents has forested campsites, heated camping just yet. Keep the adventure unfolding lining US-12 and all over town. cabins at a steal of a nightly rate, and by heading east over White Pass, home It’s a wildly popular semi-annual 46,000 feet of shoreline for your boating, to White Pass Ski Area, a big ski hill flea market; Stop and nose around, swimming, hiking and fishing pleasure (thanks to a recent expansion) with a maybe the perfect souvenir (chainsaw on Mayfield Lake. decidedly down-home vibe. Close the bear? antique butter churn? bottle of SR-12 rejoins I-5 about 16 miles loop by turning westward and exploring homemade wine?) will find you. west of Mossyrock. Head north and small towns along this route that is part In April, Mossyrock bursts into brilliant homeward, or reward yourself for the of the White Pass Scenic Byway. color as acres of tulip fields come into miles with a stop at McMenamins Located between all of Washington’s bloom. Later in the season, blueberries Olympic Club in Centralia. big-name mountains (Rainier, are so abundant there’s a festival devoted For more loop tour ideas, visit Adams and St. Helens) Packwood is to them the first weekend in August. www.visitrainier.com.

66 scenic Washington state 2013 State Secrets 6. SheRman paSS to pend oReille countRy sCeNiC Byway

this trip doesn’t show up in tons of travel guides, but

it combines three of washington state’s most scenic Sherman Pass byways (sherman Pass, north Pend oreille and part of the international selkirk loop) into one adventure. Folks who take this drive will uncover washington treasures ranging from remote caves to u-dig fossils to trees that look like solid gold when their needles turn in the fall. here’s a guide to washington’s northeast corner.

kettle MouNtaiNs seeN FroM sherMaN pass. Photo donnelly-austin

scenicwa.com 67 scenic Byways sherman pass to pend oreille Country repuBliC Log Flume Heritage Site; don’t let the Downtown Republic is an authentic logger next to the old log flume startle remnant of the old frontier town, you—it’s a statue. filled with 19th- and early 20th-century buildings. Enjoy kettle Falls a walking tour past murals and The Grand Coulee Dam’s construction photographs depicting the area’s created a 150-mile-long recreational rich gold mining history. The mecca and destroyed the old town of Stonerose Interpretive Center in Kettle Falls. No place illustrates this downtown Republic is an excellent better than Kettle Falls Campground, family stop; visitors can participate with high-bank riverfront sites, a loNg Billed Curlew

in a public dig of an Eocene fossil marina complete with houseboats for bart rulon bed and, except in the case of rent, and interpretive signs explaining extremely rare finds, can keep the town that once thrived near this site. whatever fossils they uncover. Of course, Kettle Falls relocated An $8 admission fee (kids under and proudly claims to be home to 6 are free) buys the best hands-on “1599 Friendly People and One archeology lesson in the state. Grouch.” Every June, the town Check www.stonerosefossil.org for appoints a new Grouch at Town updated schedule information. and Country Days—the title goes to whomever raises the most quarters for sherMaN pass the Chamber of Commerce. Head east from Republic up and over 5,575-foot Sherman Pass; in October, ColVille to the larches color up and become little peNd oreille shocking orange accents in a sea A short drive south along US-395 BouNdary daM of green Douglas firs. Time it right leads to Colville, a town that’s city light courtesy oF seattle and travel the pass when the needles surrounded by prime hunting and have dropped and SR-20 is carpeted fishing areas. The Little Pend Oreille some of the animals that find in gold. A pullout with interpretive National Wildlife Refuge is 42,000 home in this refuge (www.fws.gov/ signs at the White Mountain/Sherman acres of free camping, abundant littlependoreille/wildlife.html). This Overlook allows you to view the fishing, and wildlife spotting leg of eastbound SR-20 is refreshingly ghostly gray snags left behind by opportunities galore. Moose, black remote and rewards travelers with the devastating fires in 1929 and 1988. bear, and the Canada lynx placidly gorgeous Pend Oreille River as Ten miles or so further east is the (a threatened species) are just well as interesting options to the north,

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This is one remote ramble, especially as you travel further eastward. Republic, followed by Kettle Falls and Colville are the biggest population centers. Check the condition of Sherman aSk the inSideR Pass if traveling in winter. oby Scout diStance: 100 miles from Take a guided boat tour Republic to Boundary Dam. of the reservoir behind tRavel time: 4.25 houRS Boundary Dam near A couple of days would be ideal, Metaline Falls. You’ll see though this drive can be done in rusting mining equipment, one very long day. abandoned mine shafts and pristine waterfalls that BeSt time: Mid- to late October can’t be accessed any for spectacular fall color. other way. BeSt foR: Fossil digging and big www.scenicwa.com/blog/ game (moose and elk) spotting. guide/obyexplorer-in-residence

68 scenic Washington state 2013 PEND OREILLE COUNTY PEND OREILLE COUNTY Come back to the olden days by the north-flowing Pend • Step backOreille in time. River. • Ride our restored antique train. Ride the restored ColVille NatioNal Forst, sulliVaN lake • Tour millennia-old charles gurche antiqueGardner train. Cave. along the North Pend Oreille Scenic to many Boundary Dam workers. • Watch tundraTour millennia-old swans Byway, or south, along part of the Linger on the bridge on the way herald spring.Gardner Cave. International Selkirk Loop. into town, and look down at the rapid • Paddle the Pend Oreille that was once a waterfall and the town’s ExperienceRiver. our “zoo” ioNe namesake. A single wide main street – migration route for When the road ends in Tiger (check is home to Kathy’s Restaurant, a good •creatures Camp in alongthe wilderness. the River. out the small visitor center and stop for breakfast. But remember to museum here), head north and the bring cash, since they don’t accept first town you’ll hit is Ione (eye- credit cards! OWN), founded in 1910. If you’re Keep an eye out for homes and traveling in June you might encounter buildings with characteristic curves Down River Days, a celebration of in the roofline that were designed by the Pend Oreille that includes racing world-renowned architect Kirtland snowmobiles across it. The North Pend Cutter. The Performing Arts Center in Oreille Lions Club also operates a town is one of his designs that is open scenic train tour out of the depot here to the public to explore and appreciate. during summer and fall—the fall color rides are especially spectacular as the BouNdary daM train winds along the river gorge. aNd gardiNer CaVe Visit us at Beyond Metaline Falls SR-31 winds MetaliNe Falls along beaver ponds and abandoned www.porta-us.com The river is your constant companion homesteads, and then Ys off into on the right as the road winds to a couple of compelling dead ends Pend Oreille River Tourism Alliance Metaline Falls. It’s especially gorgeous before border. The left Y takes you (PORTA) as steam rises off of it on chilly to Crawford State Park and Gardener P. O. Box 1182 fall mornings. Metaline Falls is a Cave, the third longest limestone Newport, WA 99156 picturesque town that once made cavern in Washington. Rangers lead 509-447-5286 concrete for a living—today it’s home tours into the cave on every day except PendOreille SW12 1_3v.pdf

scenicwa.com 69 scenic Byways sherman pass to pend oreille Country

usk, peNd oreille riVer jamie and judy Wild

Wildlife refuges, wetlands, fossils, a buffalo herd and more friendly smiles than you can fathom are all part of the northeast corner experience.

Tuesdays and Wednesdays between trail with camp spots that can only be in the spring and summer. Check reached by boat. www.parks.wa.gov for more SR-31 becomes SR-20 at tiny specifics—it’s a long way to drive Tiger and meanders along the river to be disappointed, and the cave is to Cusick, Usk and the Kalispel inaccessible without a ranger. Indian Reservation. Go over the Take the right branch of the fork bridge that crosses the Pend Oreille and tour Boundary Dam, or camp at at Usk and explore LeClerc Road, Photo by J. Foster Fanning the free lakefront campsite operated which winds along the river on the by Seattle City Light. Boundary is one east side. Republic of the prettiest dams in Washington, Along this road, discover a buffalo good looking enough to be cast in the ranch at the Camas Center, a state washington 1997 movie The Postman. There’s a of the art recreation facility, and The Scenic trails & drives poster signed by the movie’s star and Manresa Grotto, a cave overlooking Fresh air and blue skies director, Kevin Costner, in the Dam’s the river where the Kalispel have held Birding/wildlife viewing visitor center, but far more compelling religious services since the 19th century. World-class fossil hunting is the vast limestone cavern that is the Stick with the river and continue into Historic hotel museum biggest underground powerhouse in Newport to learn more about the Uncrowded camping & RVing the nation. Seattle City Light lets people Kalispel tribe in Pioneer Park. Visit Fishing and water sports tour Boundary Dam from Memorial in spring and see fields full of purple One great brewery Day through Labor Day. Camas in bloom and a 4,000-year-old No traﬃc lights oven in which the Kalispel Indians once No hurry usk, Newport aNd BeyoNd used to bake this starchy root. There’s no loop potential here, so The only fault with this drive is the Life as it should be! heading south is the only alternative. inevitable re-entry into civilization Republic Regional Visitors The Pend Oreille is easy on the eyes as it loops south toward Spokane. & Convention Bureau coming and going though, and the If time allows, you may just want to (509) 775-3387 70-mile stretch from Oldtown, Idaho, flip another U-turn and head back ferrycounty.com to Boundary Dam is a designated water the way you came!

70 scenic Washington state 2013

RepublicVCB SCWA13 1_6.pdf Desert Oasis 7. coulee coRRidoR sCeNiC Byway

this road trip leads to fishing lakes, desert hikes, healing waters and the fields that grow your food. take a boat to a lakeshore campsite complete with boulders for Coulee Corridor diving into the deep. explore caves in a prehistoric flood site. Breathe sage-scented air and feel the hot sun. discover the many reasons refugees from the “wet side” of washington flock here in the summer.

sCaBlaNds. Photo john marshall

scenicwa.com 71 Solar-Powered Vacations in Grant County, Washington Easy to Get to and Family-Affordable

Concerts at the Gorge Amphitheater At tourgrantcounty.com you’ll find: Surfing at the Moses Lake Surf n’ Slide Water Park Complete Accommodations, Campgrounds and RV Park Wineries and Tasting Rooms Listings

Golfing at one of 15 Golf Courses Complete Events, Activities and Festivals Calendar Water Sports at over 100 Lakes Popular Grant County Attractions World-Class Hunting and Fishing Listing

Wildlife and Geographical Tours/Sites Free Grant County / Eastern Washington Travel Planner Visit the Grand Coulee Dam

For more information, contact: Grant County Tourism Comission PO Box 37, Ephrata, WA 98823 509.765.7888 • 800.992.6234 • tourgrantcounty.com scenic Byways Coulee Corridor

pothole lakes aNd Near eNdless outdoor reCreatioN are all that reMaiN aFter the glaCial Floods greg vaughn

FarMs aNd wildliFe Setting out northward from Othello on SR-17, the Columbia National Wildlife Refuge is a mix of shrub-steppe desert, marsh and farm fields, all of it habitat for everything from Sandhill cranes to great horned owls. Othello hosts the Sandhill Crane Festival in April, prime time to see these magnificent birds. The refuge gives way to Potholes Reservoir and State Park with campsites and year-round boating and fishing.

Moses lake aNd healiNg waters Don’t be startled by low-flying jets as planninG tipS you drive through Moses Lake—Boeing has a test facility here. Moses Lake is the The Coulee Corridor Scenic Byway winds north from Othello to Omak biggest city along the Coulee Corridor, along SR-17 and it’s a great place to stock up on supplies, diStance: 100 miles. especially fresh produce from the Moses tRavel time: 2.5 hours (not Lake Farmers Market. counting drive time from Seattle) aSk the inSideR Continue northward to the shores of Soap BeSt time: Summer! This is a Jennifer coleman Lake. Beachgoers caked in black mud are trip for those who like it warm. Float the day away at Lake Roosevelt; sandy a common sight here—Soap Lake’s water But if you don’t, consider spring beaches, cool clear water & sunny days make and mud are legendary for their healing for wildflowers or fall for glowing for a perfect camping spot. Take the kids to properties. For decades this has been a spa cottonwoods. the Grand Coulee Dam to impress them with the sheer size and amount of cement used in BeSt foR: Desert Hikes, destination for people seeking treatment for the construction of the dam. conditions like eczema and arthritis. Camping, Swimming, Cave Exploring, Bird Watching, Amazing www.scenicwa.com/blog/guide/family-travel-insider Even if you’re not spending the night, Vistas, Grand Coulee Dam, Lake to check out the Notaras Lodge—with its cabins Roosevelt National Recreation liNk play made of fat pine logs and decorated in themes Area, Steamboat Rock ranging from “Old Mexico” to “Luck of the Draw,” it’s a local institution that you’d only find in a town where playing in the mud THIS LAND IS YOUR LAND is A-OK. Sing along with Woody’s classic!

scenicwa.com 73 whirligigs aNd the graNd Coulee daM Now you’ll enter a string of tiny towns all tied together by the Grand Coulee Dam, the largest concrete structure in the United States. Electric City is home to the Gehrke Windmill Garden, a fading (and classic) roadside attraction that has been spinning in the wind for decades. Look for food trucks offering tacos and ice cream, and this is the go-to town for campers seeking bug spray, sunblock and gas. By all means visit the Grand Coulee Dam; the Visitor Center aptly illustrates the massive impact this structure had on all of Washington. Also, the free laser light show that’s been projected nightly on the dam for 25 years is getting a makeover. The Bureau of Reclamation plans to debut a brand new show in May 2013.

BalsaM root BlooMiNg uNder the Boulders aNd BigFoot Basalt CliFFs oF steaMBoat roCk

donnelly-austin As this byway leaves the Grand Coulee behind, the landscape is different but CaVes aNd dry Falls whose motto is “shut up and fish”—has no less stunning as it rises through the Now the corridor earns its name as it an entire room in the back devoted to Colville Indian Reservation. Wide rolling enters into coulees—basalt drainages bait, line and lures. hills dotted with mighty basalt boulders where massive amounts of water once SR-155 hugs the shores of Banks characterize this region, and then beyond Rolling flowed. Now only narrow lakes remain, Lake and then climbs into a narrow gap Nespelem, you’ll find thick pine forests each with its own personality. Basalt between basalt cliffs. This spot is known and beautiful Disautel Pass. Look for A caves overlook Lenore Lake, and the short as “The Million Dollar Mile” and is one Bigfoot here—a sculpture by Colville hike to access them is family-friendly, if a of the most expensive stretches of road in metal artist Virgil “Smoker” Marchand bit steep. the state. The riverbank here was too soft, has been startling folks along this route Next is Alkali Lake and then Blue Lake so the roadbed had to be blasted out of for seven years. (For more on this stretch, with pullouts packed with anglers during solid stone. This dramatic drive is worth see the Indian Country article.) summer. Families pack the small resorts every cent. in this area all summer long and ski boats, oMak aNd Cultural Crossroads party barges and air mattresses coexist on steaMBoat roCk This byway concludes in Omak, in the these warm waters. After Sun Lakes State aNd Northrup CaNyoN heart of Okanogan Country. Omak Park (camping, cabins, a golf course and At this point, the 800-foot butte that is best known for its annual Omak boat launches) the road climbs up to the marks Steamboat Rock State Park is in Stampede, Indian Encampment & Pow Dry Falls Interpretive Center. view. This popular camping area just Wow—you can see the steep course This small natural history museum is added a new desert loop, complete with racers run their horses down on the way perched on a bank above what was once camping cabins. Here you’ll find boat into town. the world’s largest waterfall, carved out ramps, a big day-use area with sweeping A rich Hispanic influence means by repeated cataclysmic flooding during lawns and multiple beaches, and Omak also has one of the best Cinco the last ice age. This is a necessary stop campsites that accommodate everything de Mayo celebrations in the state. Try for learning exactly how this compelling from ski boats to 30-foot RVs. Rancho Chico for Mexican fare when landscape came to be. This place gets packed in the summer, driving through—this friendly restaurant so reservations are a must. Nearby is always packed with locals. The the MillioN dollar Mile Northrup Canyon is an easy hike to an Breadline Café is another find; put the Now the route crosses an earthen dam old homestead. Look for rusted tin cans final exclamation point on this road trip and continues along Banks Lake. Anglers and broken porcelain plates left behind with their home-style eats, eclectic décor might want to stop at Big Wally’s to stock by Grand Coulee Dam workers, and and tasty selection of local microbrews. up on fishing supplies; this truck stop— watch for rattlesnakes as well.

74 scenic Washington state 2013 lling T A ro apestry

A Rolling Tapestry

8. palouSe Scenic ByWay scenic Byway traveling the roads of the Palouse scenic Byway, it’s tempting to speed. those long stretches of glorious road rolling out in front of the car just call for pushing the gas pedal down. resist the urge— you don’t want to get a ticket, and there may be a tractor putting along the highway up around the next curve. Plus, the byway’s rolling hills and big horizons should be savored. the Palouse scenic Byway is more a web of traveling options than a straight line from point a to point B. it’s a perfect ramble through the small towns, proud barns and wheat fields of washington’s breadbasket.

wheatFields iN the palouse regioN oF washiNgtoN. Photo alan majchrowicz

scenicwa.com 75 scenic Byways palouse scenic Byway

sMall towN liFe BattleFields, Buttes aNd trails SR-26 eastbound skirts Dusty, an Some of the most popular natural unincorporated town that’s home to attractions in this area are ones that the most famous yodeler in the world, deliver views of the countryside. Wylie Gustafson, better known as the Kamiak Butte County Park is three voice of Yahoo. Further east is Colfax miles south of Palouse along SR-27. and the Codger Pole. The 65-foot- Climb the Pine Ridge Trail (a 3.5-mile tall chainsaw carving is a monument loop) to look over rolling hills and the to a grudge match football game Wallowa Mountains to the south. This played by two local teams 50 years park also has a handful of campsites. after their original game in 1938 ended For a drive-to panorama, Steptoe in controversial victory for Colfax’s Butte State Park is off US-195 about archrival St. Johns. In 1988, the same 12 miles north of Colfax. The road players took the same field to play a corkscrews to the top of this 3,612- rematch. Nobody knows for sure who foot natural edifice and a boggling won the new game, but the chainsaw- view of southeast Washington. This carved faces of the 51 “codgers” who day-use park is a go-to location for played continue to grin down on visitors. photographers and anyone who wants Continue eastward to Palouse, one to see the lay of this fertile land. of the oldest communities in Whitman History buffs should look for the County. Settle into the Green Frog Steptoe Battlefield and Monument in Cafe for coffee and a snack, or visit Rosalia. It commemorates an 1858 the Roy Chatters Newspaper and battle between the local Indians and Printing Museum to see a unique the U.S. Army. The butte served as a collection of early newspaper lookout for the U.S. Army prior to palouse Falls

jamie and judy Wild publishing equipment. the battle.

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From Seattle, take I-90 east to Vantage, and then follow SR- 26 east to hook into this byway just past Washtucna (about 220 miles/3 hours and 20 minutes from Seattle). The lightly traveled roads and rolling hills aSk the inSideR are perfect for bicycling. adrianne young diStance: 208 miles Find farm field dinners, elegant little restaurants tRavel time: 5 hours to get tucked away in small towns. it all done—spend at least one Bring your boots and a day to do it well. camera for a rural photo BeSt time: Spring, summer expedition. Prepare for your and fall are best. heart to stop as your first glimpse of the Palouse Falls BeSt foR: The journey is and know that you’ll leave the pleasure of the Palouse. a little bit of it behind when The geology varies, dips and you leave the park. swerves as you drive next www.scenicwa.com/blog/ to train tracks and through guide/wine-food-insider coulees. In winter the fog sets in and the land feels both welcoming and lonely. Under the summer sun, the less travelled roads allow for gentle daydreaming against the backdrop of your favorite sound track.

76 scenic Washington state 2013 wheel FeNCe at dahMeN BarN Near uNioNtowN

Cougar CouNtry Pullman, the best-known city in this region, is home to Washington State University. The WSU campus boasts a beautiful blend of both classic and contemporary architecture. Ferdinand’s Ice Cream Shoppe sells both ice cream and cheese made at WSU’s on-site creamery. Grab a “grabber,” aka Get started online! the world’s best ice cream sandwich, or find famously delicious Cougar Gold pullmanchamber.com cheese here. But remember the line can 800-365-6948 get long on football game days. Another interesting site on campus is the Bear Center. No formal tours are Washington State Parks offered, but it’s possible to observe the grizzlies in their exercise yard at Airport Road and Grimes Way. uNioNtowN aNd dahMeN BarN South of Pullman, SR-195 unwinds into m r t day... quaint Uniontown. Road trippers who arrive in April might catch the annual Sausage Feed—a decades-old tradition that’s a fundraiser for the community C center and a great excuse to sample the ultimate in local fare; townspeople make Ocean the sausage for the feed. City The Dahmen Barn exists for all people ...Stay r t g who have ever driven past a spectacular old barn and wanted to commit the Vacation Homes · Yurts · Cabins & more. crime of trespass to explore it. In 2006, a Cape Disappointment Dosewallips Battle Ground Lake newly refurbished Dahmen Barn opened N its doors to the region’s arts community and the public. Visitors today can watch performances, see artists at work, and purchase local products and artwork. The iconic wheel fence that surrounds the barn has more than 1,000 rusted Clrng 100 ers Wngt tt r s spokes and hubs at last count—each with Events and information available at www.parks.wa.gov its own story. Admission to the Dahmen Barn is free. www.AdventureAwaits.com Information Center: (360) 902-8844

scenicwa.com 77 Places to Stay & Things to Do

Washington has an abundance of places to stay and things to do for every price range. This quick reference guide from our advertisers is a great start. Then explore the comprehensive resources available at www.ScenicWa.com. $ = Under $70

$$ = $70–$120 $$$ = $120–$200

$$$$ = Over $200 Rates (Off-Peak/Peak) Number of Rooms Onsite Restaurant Breakfast Included Internet/WiFi Microwave/Fridge Swimming Pool Pets Welcome 100% Smoke Free Hotels, Motels & Resorts AnAcortes Anaco Bay Inn $$/$$ 22 • • • • 916 33rd St, Anacortes, 98221, 360-299-3320/877-299-3320, www.anacobayinn.com Majestic Inn & Spa $$$/$$$$ 21 • • • • • • 419 Commerical Ave, Anacortes, 98221, 360-299-1400/877-370-0100, www.majesticinnandspa.com BellinghAm Best Western PLUS Lakeway Inn & Conference Center $$/$$$ 132 • • • • • • 714 Lakeway Dr, Bellingham, 98229, 888-671-1011, www.thelakewayinn.com Holiday Inn Express Bellingham $$/$$$ 101 • • • • • 4160 Meridian St, Bellingham, 98226, 360-671-4800/1-800-HOLIDAY, www.hiexpress.com/bellinghamwa Bow Skagit Valley Casino Resort $$/$$$ 103 • • • • 5984 N Darrk Lane, Bow, 98232, 360-724-7777/877-275-2448, www.theskagit.com Bremerton Super 8 Motel $/$$ 75 • • • 5068 Kitsap Way, Bremerton, 98312, 360-377-8881/800-800-8000, www.super8.com cAstle rock Mt. St. Helens Motel $$/$$ 32 • • • • • 1340 Mt. St. Helens Way NE, Castle Rock, 98611, 360-274-7721, www.mountsthelensmotel.com centrAliA McMenamin’s Olympic Club Hotel, Pub & Theatre $/$$ 27 • • • 112 N Tower Ave, Centralia, 98531, 360-736-5164/866-736-5164, www.mcmenamins.com chehAlis Best western Plus Park Place Inn & Suites $$/$$$ 60 • • • • • • 201 SW Interstate Ave, Chehalis, 98532, 360-748-4040/877-748-0008, www.parkplaceinn-suites.com chelAn Midtowner Motel $/$$ 45 • • • • 721 East Woodin Avenue, Chelan, 98816, 509-682-4051/800-572-0943, www.midtowner.com crystAl mountAin/mt. rAinier (sunrise entrAnce) Alta Crystal Resort at Mt. Rainier $$/$$$$ 24 • • • • • 68317 SR 410 E, Crystal Mountain 98022, 360-663-2500 / 800-277-6475 www.altacrystalresort.com Crystal Mountain Hotels $/$$$$ 70 • • • • • 33818 Crystal Mountain Blvd, Crystal Mountain 98022, 888-754-6400 www.crystalhotels.com Crystal Mountain Lodging Suites $$/$$$$ 96 • • • • • 33000 Crystal Mountain Blvd, Crystal Mountain 98022, 360-663-2558 / 888-ON-THE-MT www.crystalmountainlodging.com eAtonville Mill Village Motel $$/$$ 32 • • • • 210 Center St E, Eatonville, 98328, 360-832-3200, www.whitepasstravel.com ellensBurg Super 8 Ellensburg $/$$ 102 • • • • 1500 Canyon Rd, Ellensburg, 98926, 509-962-6888/800-800-8000, www.super8.com ePhrAtA Best Western Rama Inn $$/$$ 46 • • • • • 1818 Basin St SW, Ephrata, 98823, 509-754-7111, bestwestern.com/hotels/best-western-rama

78 scenic Washington state 2013 $ = Under $70

$$ = $70–$120 $$$ = $120–$200

$$$$ = Over $200 Rates (Off-Peak/Peak) Number of Rooms Onsite Restaurant Breakfast Included Internet/WiFi Microwave/Fridge Swimming Pool Pets Welcome 100% Smoke Free Hotels, Motels & Resorts FederAl wAy Courtyard Seattle Federal Way $$/$$$ 160 • • • • • 31910 Gateway Center Blvd S, Federal Way, 98003, 253-529-0200/800-321-2211, www.marriott.com/seafw Hampton Inn & Suites Seattle/Federal Way $$/$$$ 142 • • • • • 31720 Gateway Center Blvd S, Federal Way, 98003, 253-946-7000/800-HAMPTON, www.seattlefederalwaysuites.hamptoninn.com FerndAle $ = Under $70 Silver Reef Hotel, Casino & Spa $$$/$$$ 105 • • • • • • $$ = $70–$120 4876 Haxton Way, Ferndale, 98248, 360-383-0777/866-383-0777, www.silverreefcasino.com $$$ = $120–$200

$$$$ = Over $200 Rates (Off-Peak/Peak) Number of Rooms Onsite Restaurant Breakfast Included Internet/WiFi Microwave/Fridge Swimming Pool Pets Welcome 100% Smoke Free Super 8 Ferndale $$/$$$ 78 • • • • •

5788 Barrett Avenue, Ferndale, 98248, 360-384-8881.-/800-800-8000, www.super8.com AnAcortes FridAy hArBor Anaco Bay Inn $$/$$ 22 • • • • 916 33rd St, Anacortes, 98221, 360-299-3320/877-299-3320, www.anacobayinn.com Best Western PLUS Friday Harbor Suites $$$/$$$$ 61 • • • • • 680 Spring St, Friday Harbor, 98250, 360-378-3031/800-752-5752, www.fridayharborsuites.com Majestic Inn & Spa $$$/$$$$ 21 • • • • • • 419 Commerical Ave, Anacortes, 98221, 360-299-1400/877-370-0100, www.majesticinnandspa.com kent BellinghAm Hawthorn Suites by Wyndham Kent $$/$$$ 152 • • • • • 6329 South 212th Street, Kent, 98032, 253-395-3800/800-337-0202, www.hskent.com Best Western PLUS Lakeway Inn & Conference Center $$/$$$ 132 • • • • • • 714 Lakeway Dr, Bellingham, 98229, 888-671-1011, www.thelakewayinn.com lA conner Holiday Inn Express Bellingham $$/$$$ 101 • • • • • La Conner Channel Lodge $$$/$$$$ 40 • • • • 4160 Meridian St, Bellingham, 98226, 360-671-4800/1-800-HOLIDAY, www.hiexpress.com/bellinghamwa 205 N First St, La Conner, 98257, 360-466-4113/888-466-4113, www.laconnerlodging.com Bow lA Push Skagit Valley Casino Resort $$/$$$ 103 • • • • Quileute Oceanside Resort & RV Park $$/$$$ 28 • • • • 5984 N Darrk Lane, Bow, 98232, 360-724-7777/877-275-2448, www.theskagit.com 330 Ocean Drive, La Push, 98350, 360-374-5267/800-487-1267, www.quileuteoceanside.com Bremerton lAcey Super 8 Motel $/$$ 75 • • • Super 8 Motel $/$$ 98 • • • • • 5068 Kitsap Way, Bremerton, 98312, 360-377-8881/800-800-8000, www.super8.com 112 College St, Lacey, 98503, 360-459-8888/800-800-8000, www.super8.com cAstle rock leAvenworth Mt. St. Helens Motel $$/$$ 32 • • • • • Icicle Village Resort $$$/$$$$ 107 • • • • • • • 1340 Mt. St. Helens Way NE, Castle Rock, 98611, 360-274-7721, www.mountsthelensmotel.com 505 Highway 2, Leavenworth, 98826, 509-548-7000/800-961-0162, www.iciclevillage.com centrAliA lynnwood McMenamin’s Olympic Club Hotel, Pub & Theatre $/$$ 27 • • • city of lynnwood lodging $$/$$$$ 1000+ • • • • • • • 112 N Tower Ave, Centralia, 98531, 360-736-5164/866-736-5164, www.mcmenamins.com 4114 198th St SW, Lynnwood, 98406, 425-670-5040, www.lynnwoodtourism.com/stay-here chehAlis Courtyard by Marriott $$/$$$ 164 • • • • • • 4220 Alderwood Mall Blvd, Lynnwood, 98036, 425-670-0500/800-321-2211, www.marriott.com/sealn Best western Plus Park Place Inn & Suites $$/$$$ 60 • • • • • • 201 SW Interstate Ave, Chehalis, 98532, 360-748-4040/877-748-0008, www.parkplaceinn-suites.com Embassy Suites Hotel $$/$$$ 240 • • • • • • 20601 44th Avenue W, Lynnwood, 98036, 425-775-2500/800-628-0611 chelAn www.seattlenorthlynnwood.embassysuites.com Midtowner Motel $/$$ 45 • • • • morton 721 East Woodin Avenue, Chelan, 98816, 509-682-4051/800-572-0943, www.midtowner.com Seasons Motel $$/$$ 49 • • • • • • crystAl mountAin/mt. rAinier (sunrise entrAnce) 200 Westlake Ave, Morton, 98356, 360-496-6835, www.whitepasstravel.com Alta Crystal Resort at Mt. Rainier $$/$$$$ 24 • • • • • mount vernon 68317 SR 410 E, Crystal Mountain 98022, 360-663-2500 / 800-277-6475 www.altacrystalresort.com BEST WESTERN PLUS Cotton Tree Inn & Convention Center $$/$$$ 120 • • • • • • Crystal Mountain Hotels $/$$$$ 70 • • • • • 2300 Market Street, Mount Vernon, 98273, 360-428-5678/800-622-6886, www.cottontreeinns.com 33818 Crystal Mountain Blvd, Crystal Mountain 98022, 888-754-6400 www.crystalhotels.com Days Inn Mount Vernon $/$$ 65 • • • • • • Crystal Mountain Lodging Suites $$/$$$$ 96 • • • • • 2009 Riverside Dr, Mount Vernon, 98273, 360-424-4141/800-329-7466, www.daysinn.com 33000 Crystal Mountain Blvd, Crystal Mountain 98022, 360-663-2558 / 888-ON-THE-MT Tulip Inn $/$$ 40 • • • • • www.crystalmountainlodging.com 2200 Freeway Drive, Mount Vernon, 98273, 360-428-5969/800-599-5969, www.tulipinn.net eAtonville oceAn shores Mill Village Motel $$/$$ 32 • • • • Canterbury Inn $/$$$$ 45 • • • • • 210 Center St E, Eatonville, 98328, 360-832-3200, www.whitepasstravel.com 643 Ocean Shores Blvd, Ocean Shores, 98569, 360-289-3317/800-562-6678, www.canterburyinn.com ellensBurg The Polynesian Resort $$/$$$$ 69 • • • • • • • Super 8 Ellensburg $/$$ 102 • • • • 615 Ocean Shores Blvd NW, Ocean Shores, 98569, 800-562-4836, www.thepolynesian.com 1500 Canyon Rd, Ellensburg, 98926, 509-962-6888/800-800-8000, www.super8.com PAckwood ePhrAtA Crest Trail Lodge $$/$$ 27 • • • • • Best Western Rama Inn $$/$$ 46 • • • • • 12729 US Hwy 12, Packwood, 98356, 360-494-4944/800-477-5339, www.cresttraillodge.com 1818 Basin St SW, Ephrata, 98823, 509-754-7111, bestwestern.com/hotels/best-western-rama

ScenicWA.com 79 $ = Under $70 $ = Under $20

$$ = $70–$120 $$ = $20–$50

$$$ = $120–$200 $$$ = Over $50 Rates (Off-Peak/Peak) Number of Spaces Hook-Ups Dump Station Showers Pull-Through Groceries/Ice/PropaneSwimming Tent Camping

$$$$ = Over $200 Rates (Off-Peak/Peak) Number of Rooms Onsite Restaurant Breakfast Included Internet/WiFi Microwave/Fridge Swimming Pool Pets Welcome 100% Smoke Free Hotels, Motels & Resorts FerndAle Port Angeles Cedars RV Resort $$/$$ 167 • • • • • • • Lake Crescent Lodge $$/$$$ 52 • • • • 6335 Portal Way, Ferndale, 98248, 360-384-2622, www.holidaytrailresorts.com/thecedars 416 Lake Crescent Rd, Port Angeles, 98363, 360-928-3211/888-723-7127, www.olympicnationalparks.com lA Push Port ludlow Quileute Oceanside Resort & RV Park $$/$$ 62 • • • • • • The Resort at Port Ludlow $$/$$$ 37 • • • • • 330 Ocean Drive, La Push, 98350, 360-374-5267/800-487-1267, www.quileuteoceanside.com One Heron Road, Port Ludlow, 98365, 360-437-7000/877-269-1873, www.portludlowresort.com long BeAch QuinAult Andersen’s on the Ocean - A Friendly & Full Service RV Park $$/$$ 60 • • • • Lake Quinault Lodge $$/$$$ 91 • • • • • 1400 138th St, Long Beach, 98631, 360-642-2231, www.andersensRV.com 345 South Shore Rd, Quinault, 98575, 360-288-2900/800-562-6672, www.olympicnationalparks.com Port Angeles log cabin resort $$/$$ 28 • • • Elwha Dam RV Park $$/$$ 52 • • • • • 3183 East Beach Rd, Port Angeles, 98363, 360-928-3325/888-896-3818, www.olympicnationalparks.com 47 Lower Dam Rd, Port Angeles, 98363, 360-452-7054/877-435-9421, www.elwhadamrvpark.com Rain Forest Resort Village $$/$$$$ 29 • • • Log Cabin Resort $/$$ 37 • • • • • 516 South Shore Rd, Quinault, 98575, 360-288-2535/800-255-6936, www.rainforestresort.com 3183 East Beach Rd, Port Angeles, 98363, 360-928-3325/888-896-3818, www.olympicnationalparks.com seAtAc Sol Duc Hot Springs $$/$$ 17 • • • • 12076 Sol Duc Hot Springs Road, Port Angeles, 98363 866-476-5382, www.olympicnationalparks.com Super 8 Motel $/$$ 119 • • • 3100 South 192nd, SeaTac, 98188, 206-433-8188/800-800-8000, www.super8.com silver creek Harmony Lakeside RV Park $$/$$ 80 • • • seAttle 563 State Route 122, Silver Creek, 98585, 360-983-3804, www.harmonylakesidervpark.com The Edgewater Hotel $$$$/$$$$ 223 • • • • 2441 Alaskan Way Pier 67, Seattle, 98121, 206-728-7000/800-624-0670, www.edgewaterhotel.com SpringHill Suites by Marriott Seattle Downtown $$/$$$$ 234 • • • • • • 1800 Yale Ave, Seattle, 98101, 206-254-0500/888-287-9400, www.shsseattle.com seAview $ = Under $70 $$ = $70–$120 Shelburne Inn $$/$$$ 14 • • • • $$$ = $120–$200

4415 Pacific Way, Seaview, 98644, 360-642-2442/800-INN-1896, www.theshelburneinn.com $$$$ = Over $200 Rates (Off-Peak/Peak) Number of Rooms Min. Stay Req. Private Bath/ShowerFireplace Units Cable or Sat. TV Internet/WiFi Jacuzzi/Hot Tub Pets Welcome

sPokAne clAllum BAy Northern Quest Casino $$$/$$$$ 250 • • • • • Winter Summer Inn B&B $/$$$ 4 • • • • 100 N Hayford Road, Airway Heights, 99001, 509-481-6000, www.northernquest.com 16651 Hwy 112, Clallam Bay, 98326, 360-963-2264, www.wintersummerinn.com tulAliP FridAy hArBor Tulalip Resort Casino $$$/$$$$ 370 • • • • horseshu guest ranch 0 10200 Quil Ceda Blvd, Tulalip, 98271, 360-716-6000/888-272-1111, www.tulalipresort.com 131 Gilbert Lane/PO Box 1639, Friday Harbor, 98250, 360-378-2298, www.horseshu.com union ilwAco Alderbrook Resort & Spa $$$/$$$$ 93 • • • • China Beach Retreat $$$/$$$$ 4 • • • • 10 East Alderbrook Drive, Union, 98592, 360-898-2200, www.alderbrookresort.com 222 Robert Gray Dr, Ilwaco, 98624, 360-642-2442, www.chinabeachretreat.com union gAP Port Angeles Super 8 Motel $/$$ 96 • • • • Colette’s Bed and Breakfast $$$/$$$$ 5 • • • • • 2605 Rudkin Rd, Union Gap, 98903, 509-249-8880/800-800-8000, www.super8.com 399 Finn Hall Rd, Port Angeles, 98362, 360-457-9197/877-457-9777, www.colettes.com wAllA wAllA Best western Plus Walla Walla Suites Inn $/$$ 77 • • • • • • 7 East Oak Street, Walla Walla, 99362, 509-525-4700, www.bestwesternwashington.com $ = Under $70 Marcus Whitman Hotel & Conference Center $$/$$$ 127 • • • • • • $$ = $70–$120 6 West Rose St, Walla Walla, 99362, 509-525-2200, www.marcuswhitmanhotel.com $$$ = $120–$200 $$$$ = Over $200 Rates (Off-Peak/Peak) Max. Occupancy Min. Stay Req. Year Round Linens Provided Cooking Utensils Cable or Sat. TV Internet/WiFi Pets Welcome Super 8 Motel $/$$ 101 • • • • 2315 Eastgate St N, Walla Walla, 99362, 509-525-8800/800-800-8000, www.super8.com AnAcortes westPort Guemes Island Resort $$/$$$ 12 • • • • • • 4268 Guemes Island Rd, Anacortes, 98221, 360-293-6643/800-965-6643, www.guemesislandresort.com Breakers Boutique Inn $/$$ 14 • • • • 971 N Montesano, Westport, , 360-268-0848, www.breakersinn.com glAcier Mount Baker Lodging $$/$$$$ 26 • • • • • woodinville 7463 Mt Baker Highway, Glacier, 98244-5177, 360-599-2453/800-709-7669, www.mtbakerlodging.com Willows Lodge $$$$/$$$$ 84 • • • • lA Push 14580 NE 145th St, Woodinville, 98072, 425-424-3900, www.willowslodge.com Quileute Oceanside Resort & RV Park $/$$$$ 43 • • • • 330 Ocean Drive, La Push, 98350, 360-374-5267/800-487-1267, www.quileuteoceanside.com QuinAult Morning Glory Balloon Tours Sol Duc Hot Springs Resort $$$/$$$$ 5-10 •• • Things to Do 429 Eastside Rd. Do Ocean Shores 12076 Sol Duc Hot Springs Road, Port Angeles, 98363 866-476-5382, www.olympicnationalparks.com Winthrop, WA 98862 Fly a kite; paddle a board; build ScenicWa.com silver creek 509-997-1700 a sand-castle. Have fun! For more things to do go to Harmony Lakeside RV Park $$/$$$ 4-6 • • • • • • www.balloonwinthrop.com www.DoOceanShores.com www.scenicwa.com/listing/main/things-to-do 563 State Route 122, Silver Creek, 98585, 360-983-3804, www.harmonylakesidervpark.com

80 scenic Washington state 2013 $ = Under $20 RV Parks & Campgrounds $$ = $20–$50 $$$ = Over $50 Rates (Off-Peak/Peak) Number of Spaces Hook-Ups Dump Station Showers Pull-Through Groceries/Ice/PropaneSwimming Tent Camping

FerndAle Cedars RV Resort $$/$$ 167 • • • • • • • 6335 Portal Way, Ferndale, 98248, 360-384-2622, www.holidaytrailresorts.com/thecedars lA Push Quileute Oceanside Resort & RV Park $$/$$ 62 • • • • • • 330 Ocean Drive, La Push, 98350, 360-374-5267/800-487-1267, www.quileuteoceanside.com long BeAch Andersen’s on the Ocean - A Friendly & Full Service RV Park $$/$$ 60 • • • • 1400 138th St, Long Beach, 98631, 360-642-2231, www.andersensRV.com Port Angeles Elwha Dam RV Park $$/$$ 52 • • • • • 47 Lower Dam Rd, Port Angeles, 98363, 360-452-7054/877-435-9421, www.elwhadamrvpark.com Log Cabin Resort $/$$ 37 • • • • • 3183 East Beach Rd, Port Angeles, 98363, 360-928-3325/888-896-3818, www.olympicnationalparks.com Sol Duc Hot Springs $$/$$ 17 • • • • 12076 Sol Duc Hot Springs Road, Port Angeles, 98363 866-476-5382, www.olympicnationalparks.com silver creek Harmony Lakeside RV Park $$/$$ 80 • • • 563 State Route 122, Silver Creek, 98585, 360-983-3804, www.harmonylakesidervpark.com

$ = Under $70

$$ = $70–$120 Bed & Breakfasts $$$ = $120–$200 $$$$ = Over $200 Rates (Off-Peak/Peak) Number of Rooms Min. Stay Req. Private Bath/ShowerFireplace Units Cable or Sat. TV Internet/WiFi Jacuzzi/Hot Tub Pets Welcome

clAllum BAy Winter Summer Inn B&B $/$$$ 4 • • • • 16651 Hwy 112, Clallam Bay, 98326, 360-963-2264, www.wintersummerinn.com FridAy hArBor horseshu guest ranch 0 131 Gilbert Lane/PO Box 1639, Friday Harbor, 98250, 360-378-2298, www.horseshu.com ilwAco China Beach Retreat $$$/$$$$ 4 • • • • 222 Robert Gray Dr, Ilwaco, 98624, 360-642-2442, www.chinabeachretreat.com Port Angeles Colette’s Bed and Breakfast $$$/$$$$ 5 • • • • • 399 Finn Hall Rd, Port Angeles, 98362, 360-457-9197/877-457-9777, www.colettes.com

$ = Under $70

$$ = $70–$120 Vacation Houses & Cabins $$$ = $120–$200 $$$$ = Over $200 Rates (Off-Peak/Peak) Max. Occupancy Min. Stay Req. Year Round Linens Provided Cooking Utensils Cable or Sat. TV Internet/WiFi Pets Welcome

AnAcortes Guemes Island Resort $$/$$$ 12 • • • • • • 4268 Guemes Island Rd, Anacortes, 98221, 360-293-6643/800-965-6643, www.guemesislandresort.com glAcier Mount Baker Lodging $$/$$$$ 26 • • • • • 7463 Mt Baker Highway, Glacier, 98244-5177, 360-599-2453/800-709-7669, www.mtbakerlodging.com lA Push Quileute Oceanside Resort & RV Park $/$$$$ 43 • • • • 330 Ocean Drive, La Push, 98350, 360-374-5267/800-487-1267, www.quileuteoceanside.com QuinAult Sol Duc Hot Springs Resort $$$/$$$$ 5-10 •• • 12076 Sol Duc Hot Springs Road, Port Angeles, 98363 866-476-5382, www.olympicnationalparks.com silver creek Harmony Lakeside RV Park $$/$$$ 4-6 • • • • • • 563 State Route 122, Silver Creek, 98585, 360-983-3804, www.harmonylakesidervpark.com

ScenicWA.com 81 Vancouver, BC

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Way . Tekoa Tacoma 169 97 Quincy O H A D I GRAYS Roslyn 28 Rosalia Paci c Beach 102 Shelton Cle 27 HARBOR Elum 271 101 Lakewood Puyallup Enumclaw 281 410 283 Buckley KITTITAS GRANT Moses Lake Ritzville 23 195 Copalis Beach McCleary 108 109 Olympia 5 8 161 410 George 90 Brady Satsop 507 Potholes Steptoe Hoquiam Lacey Ocean 12 Elma Res. 395 C 510 Lind Grays Montesano h Ellensburg 262 Shores Aberdeen e Tumwater Vantage Harbor 105 h PIERCE WHITMAN a 702 Mount Crystal Mountain ADAMS 272 l is 90 Colfax Palouse R . THURSTON Rainier Westport 26 17 27 12 Rochester Tenino National 410 21 261 26 Grayland 101 507 Othello Park 82 26 7 Ashford 243 Washtucna Moscow Tokeland 105 706 123 Centralia 24 Pullman Willapa Raymond Bay 12 Selah 127 95 South Chehalis White Pass 195 Oysterville Bend PACIFIC 12 508 12 Yakima 260 Packwood 24 Connell Colton Nahcotta 6 Pe Ell Mayeld 261 GARFIELD Morton Randle Ocean Park Lake 12 YAKIMA Uniontown Winlock Union Gap Pomeroy LEWIS litz R. 24 Starbuck 103 ow FRANKLIN Lewiston 5 C 395 Pataha 12 193 505 Ri e Lake . Toledo R 101 Naselle 97 241 240 e Clarkston Grays River Zillah ak Long Beach Sn 4 BENTON 401 504 504 Toppenish Dayton Ilwaco AHKIAKUM Sunnyside 225 Prescott W 124 m Skamokawa Castle Rock 12 R. Richland COLUMBIA olu bia . a C R Mount kim Pasco Waitburg SOTIN Cathlamet 22 Grandview Ya A Astoria 82 129 30 St. Helens WALLA WALLA Kelso Mount Adams Kennewick Umatilla Longview National Prosser National Forest KAMANIA Lake Monument S Wallula 101 97 82 Wallula 221 12 . em R Lake 395 Walla Walla 26 202 al COWLITZ Merwin Swift eh Yale N Lake Creek Res. Hells 503 11 OREGON Canyon 47 14 KLICKITAT Woodland 3 26 141 CLARK 30 503 142 14 84 5 Goldendale bia White Salmon lum R. Co 30 Carson Bingen Stevenson 30 Lyle Maryhill 74 6 500 84 Vancouver 14 14 North Bonneville Camas 35 19 97 Portland Washougal The Dalles 82 scenic Washington state 2013 205

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Way . Tekoa Tacoma 169 97 Quincy O H A D I GRAYS Roslyn 28 Rosalia Paci c Beach 102 Shelton Cle 27 HARBOR Elum 271 101 Lakewood Puyallup Enumclaw 281 410 283 Buckley KITTITAS GRANT Moses Lake Ritzville 23 195 Copalis Beach McCleary 108 109 Olympia 5 8 161 410 George 90 Brady Satsop 507 Potholes Steptoe Hoquiam Lacey Ocean 12 Elma Res. 395 C 510 Lind Grays Montesano h Ellensburg 262 Shores Aberdeen e Tumwater Vantage Harbor 105 h PIERCE WHITMAN a 702 Mount Crystal Mountain ADAMS 272 l is 90 Colfax Palouse R . THURSTON Rainier Westport 26 17 27 12 Rochester Tenino National 410 21 261 26 Grayland 101 507 Othello Park 82 26 7 Ashford 243 Washtucna Moscow Tokeland 105 706 123 Centralia 24 Pullman Willapa Raymond Bay 12 Selah 127 95 South Chehalis White Pass 195 Oysterville Bend PACIFIC 12 508 12 Yakima 260 Packwood 24 Connell Colton Nahcotta 6 Pe Ell Mayeld 261 GARFIELD Morton Randle Ocean Park Lake 12 YAKIMA Uniontown Winlock Union Gap Pomeroy LEWIS litz R. 24 Starbuck 103 ow FRANKLIN Lewiston 5 C 395 Pataha 12 193 505 Ri e Lake . Toledo R 101 Naselle 97 241 240 e Clarkston Grays River Zillah ak Long Beach Sn 4 BENTON 401 504 504 Toppenish Dayton Ilwaco AHKIAKUM Sunnyside 225 Prescott W 124 m Skamokawa Castle Rock 12 R. Richland COLUMBIA olu bia . a C R Mount kim Pasco Waitburg SOTIN Cathlamet 22 Grandview Ya A Astoria 82 129 30 St. Helens WALLA WALLA Kelso Mount Adams Kennewick Umatilla Longview National Prosser National Forest KAMANIA Lake Monument S Wallula 101 97 82 Wallula 221 12 . em R Lake 395 Walla Walla 26 202 al COWLITZ Merwin Swift eh Yale N Lake Creek Res. Hells 503 11 OREGON Canyon 47 14 KLICKITAT Woodland 3 26 141 CLARK 30 503 142 14 84 5 Goldendale bia White Salmon lum R. Co 30 Carson Bingen Stevenson 30 Lyle Maryhill 74 6 500 84 Vancouver 14 14 North Bonneville Washington State Camas 35 19 97 Portland Washougal The Dalles 205 ScenicWA.com 83

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