Frommer's Yosemite & Sequoia/Kings Canyon National Parks 4Th
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00 542869 FM.qxd 1/21/04 8:54 AM Page i Yosemite & Sequoia/Kings Canyon National Parks 4th Edition by Don & Barbara Laine & Eric Peterson Here’s what critics say about Frommer’s: “Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete.” —Booklist “Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.” —Glamour Magazine 00 542869 FM.qxd 1/21/04 8:54 AM Page ii Published by: WILEY PUBLISHING,INC. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ 07030-5744 Copyright © 2004 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as per- mitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978/750-8400, fax 978/646-8600. Requests to the Publisher for permis- sion should be addressed to the Legal Department, Wiley Publishing, Inc., 10475 Crosspoint Blvd., Indianapolis, IN 46256, 317/572-3447, fax 317/572-4447, E-Mail: [email protected]. Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trade- marks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc. and/or its affiliates. Frommer’s is a trademark or registered trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book. ISBN 0-7645-4286-9 Editor: Lesley King Production Editor: Ian Skinnari Photo Editor: Richard Fox Cartographer: John Decamillis Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 800/762-2974, outside the U.S. at 317/572-3993 or fax 317/572-4002. Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some con- tent that appears in print may not be available in electronic formats. Manufactured in the United States of America 54321 00 542869 FM.qxd 1/21/04 8:54 AM Page iii Contents List of Maps vi Introduction to Yosemite & Sequoia/Kings 1 Canyon National Parks 1 1 History of the Region . .6 2 The Parks Today . .9 3 The Best of Yosemite & Sequoia/Kings Canyon . .11 Planning Your Trip to Yosemite & 2 Sequoia/Kings Canyon National Parks 15 1 Getting Started: Information & Reservations . .15 2 When to Go . .16 Special Events In Yosemite . .17 Special Events In Sequoia/Kings Canyon . .18 3 Passes & Permits You Can Get in Advance . .18 4 Getting There . .20 5 Learning & Adventure Vacations . .23 6 Tips for Travelers with Disabilities . .23 7 Tips for Travelers with Pets . .24 8 Tips for Travelers with Children . .24 9 Protecting Your Health & Safety . .25 10 Protecting the Environment . .26 3 Exploring Yosemite 27 1 Essentials . .27 Fast Facts: Yosemite National Park . .28 2 Orientation . .30 3 The Highlights . .39 4 How to See the Park in 1 or 2 Days . .40 5 Seeing the Park by Car & Shuttle . .41 6 Organized Tours & Ranger Programs . .42 00 542869 FM.qxd 1/21/04 8:54 AM Page iv 4 Hikes & Other Outdoor Pursuits in Yosemite 45 1 Day Hikes & Scenic Walks . .45 2 Exploring the Backcountry . .55 Backpacking for Beginners . .59 3 Other Sports & Activities . .62 5 Where to Stay & Eat in Yosemite 65 1 Lodging . .65 2 Camping . .76 Yosemite Campgrounds . .80 3 Where to Eat . .83 6 Exploring Sequoia/Kings Canyon 92 1 Essentials . .92 Fast Facts: Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks . .94 2 Orientation . .95 3 The Highlights . .102 A New National Monument Is Created . .103 4 Go Inside the Earth in Two Caves . .104 5 How to See the Parks in 1 or 2 Days . .105 6 Seeing the Parks by Car . .106 Hikes & Other Outdoor Pursuits in 7 Sequoia/Kings Canyon 108 1 Day Hikes & Scenic Walks . .108 2 Other Sports & Activities . .119 3 Exploring the Backcountry . .121 8 Where to Stay & Eat in Sequoia/Kings Canyon 125 1 Lodging . .125 2 Camping . .132 Sequoia/Kings Canyon Campgrounds . .134 3 Where to Eat . .138 00 542869 FM.qxd 1/21/04 8:54 AM Page v A Nature Guide to Yosemite & 9 Sequoia/Kings Canyon National Parks 142 1 The Landscape . .142 2 The Flora . .146 3 The Fauna . .154 4 The Ecosystem . .166 Index 168 General Index . .168 Accommodations Index . .178 Restaurant Index . .179 00 542869 FM.qxd 1/21/04 8:54 AM Page vi List of Maps Yosemite National Park 2 Hiking Trails Near Sequoia & Kings Canyon Yosemite Valley 46 National Parks 4 Backcountry Hikes Highway Access to in Yosemite 52 the Parks 21 Giant Forest 97 Yosemite Valley 32 Grant Grove 99 Tuolumne Meadows 35 Cedar Grove 100 Wawona 37 Hikes Near Giant Forest 109 Mariposa Grove 38 Hikes Near Grant Grove 113 00 542869 FM.qxd 1/21/04 8:54 AM Page vii ABOUT THE AUTHORS Residents of northern New Mexico since 1970, Don and Barbara Laine have written about and traveled extensively throughout the West and Southwest, spending as much time as possible in the outdoors. They are the authors of Frommer’s Utah, Frommer’s Colorado, Frommer’s Rocky Mountain National Park, and Frommer’s Zion & Bryce Canyon National Parks. They are the lead authors of Frommer’s National Parks of the American West, and are contributors to Frommer’s USA. Eric Peterson is a Denver-based freelance writer who has authored Frommer’s Montana & Wyoming and Frommer’s Yellowstone & the Grand Tetons National Parks. He has contributed to Frommer’s National Parks of the American West and Frommer’s Colorado. He also writes for several Colorado-based business and entertainment periodicals, makes a mean chicken chili, and takes as many weekend treks into the Rockies as possible. AN INVITATION TO THE READER In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants, shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to: Frommer’s Yosemite & Sequoia/Kings Canyon National Parks, 4th Edition Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5744 AN ADDITIONAL NOTE Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time— and this is especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets. 00 542869 FM.qxd 1/21/04 8:54 AM Page viii FROMMER’S STAR RATINGS,ICONS & ABBREVIATIONS Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system. In country, state, and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices and budget your time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (recommended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and regions are rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star (highly recommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see). In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature icons that point you to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from tourists. Throughout the book, look for: Finds Special finds—those places only insiders know about Fun Fact Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips more fun Kids Best bets for kids and advice for the whole family Moments Special moments—those experiences that memories are made of Overrated Places or experiences not worth your time or money Tips Insider tips—great ways to save time and money Value Great values—where to get the best deals The following abbreviations are used for credit cards: AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa DC Diners Club MC MasterCard FROMMERS.COM Now that you have the guidebook to a great trip, visit our website at www. frommers.com for travel information on more than 3,000 destinations. With features updated regularly, we give you instant access to the most current trip- planning information available. At Frommers.com, you’ll also find the best prices on airfares, accommodations, and car rentals—and you can even book travel online through our travel booking partners. At Frommers.com, you’ll also find the following: • Online updates to our most popular guidebooks • Vacation sweepstakes and contest giveaways • Newsletter highlighting the hottest travel trends • Online travel message boards with featured travel discussions 01 542869 Ch01.qxd 1/21/04 8:53 AM Page 1 1 Introduction to Yosemite & Sequoia/Kings Canyon National Parks California’s Sierra Nevada imposes rugged features on a state that many associate with sandy beaches and palm trees. It’s a mountain range of great beauty, hidden amid harsh wilderness, and nowhere is the terrain more dramatic than in Yosemite and Sequoia/Kings Canyon national parks. Both combine mountains with meadows, waterfalls with wildflowers, and spectacular geology with awe- inspiring vistas that span, in some cases, nearly the breadth of the state.