lias San Francisco Sunday Call.

spangled mauve embroidery on band* LATESTBE w«U gowned at PARIS FASHIONS GOWNSsatin, in THEATRE a charmingly tb*thtiter of the makes eltte- or restacrant Is most essential tlve gown, that is relieved only by the of, printed yokes collar in these days, vrfcen to BHich smallest and — of a cream lace. The coloring i*soft TOtime spent public Is In fbAt'ls,. artistic and the materials employed going and In to the play and in filnlng **\u25a0 are on the same order, no that if only chosen it Is •supping at restaurant!. mar* right shade be becom- Mudi any \u25a0woman. attention is sow paid ing to almost to th* KVWTM The inevitable black gown, a* it Is worn at the theater. and. lit censs- sometimes termed, is elways,most use- quence the effect is far brilliant ful for a theater or restaurant . gown, more can than when women wore anythlnjr that and an endless variety of effects most convenient, • be obtained with the different mate- was without regard he Soft, to whether it was appropriate or even rials that are now to had. becoming:. clinging fabrics are first in favor, tin Itis extremely difficult, has been stated, but there are heavier all the »ame,' are fashionable, for the rank and file of women to b* materials that also as they while chiffon velvet has lost none of turned would wish. To hold most, fascinating s^at and wrap lap during its popularity. A Jn one's the gown of the latter material is In the entire performance is not conducive to the well being emipre style, ,but has panels let into of cither the wearer hips. There is a or the gown, and yet unless one goes. the skirt below th* In ore's own conveyance a narrow yoke of white lace bordered heavy wrap hat and with straight bands of embroidered arc obligatory in winter.. yoke the Only in a box can velvet. Below the material is hats be worn, and draped just across the bust In such an entirely different style of gown. Hats are fashion that It gives the effect of folds considered correct «t a the material taken from front restaurant, so if there be a dinner be- of the fore the play or a supper under the arms to between the shoul- afterward'th* ders, where there is a fancy gold liat must be a part of the costume. long More and buckle from which fall the folds more elaborate are the of the velvet to the hem of the skirt. crowns designed for so-called theater quit© small, wear, and were for The sleeves are shirred itnot the difference puffs, cuffs, in the style waist, with embroidered and Just of the it being cut the velvet fiat lace cuffs to liigh instead of decollete, there, would below be difficulty match the yoke. Colored chiffon velvet often in deciding "as to gowns popular it gown are also for the theater Whether was a ball or theater and restaurant, and an odd shads of gown. At the moment the lighter, thought transparent tho g^-ay and a new cerise are more materials are especially smart. A band of embroid- most popular, and with the great num- velvet, a of by ery, in satin or with touch ber of them to choose from It is no Jace, waist, or there Is, I! means a task select attract- trims the difficult to yellow or gray be the color, also * ive designs and to have variety ansilk ground ot the. same shade Just that trim the waist. These are not at lighter can be had. co that, as can well & get all showy, but are put on in tailored be imagined, it is possible to an effect, In the embroidery being in fact •unlimited range of color. One point stitchery merely, something like hem-r favor of these figured thin —materials stitching, stitching, etc. The Uiey brier should also be borne In mmd re- waists are close fitting, fastened at on* quire no other trimming, the pattern side or »n the back." Over the basque furnishing that, so that lace in yoke lining the material is put on to pleats \u25a0 girdle or of or bertha and the bodice or tucks. The w&ist is finished with a satin, velvet or silk is all sufficient. high standing collar and chemisette ot Often, too. the latter can be omitted sole, net, princess style lace tucked moussellne de etc. ivhen an empire or is The sleeves are three-quarter, finished chosen. with a cuff or undersleeve lilc* the chemisette. The belt is an inconspicu- Net and Lace Gowns ous affair of crushed, pleated or These styles have been so conspicu- stitched silk matching the trimmingof ously popular for so long a time that the frock. there- are well-founded rumors from The idea of this style of frock seems the headquarters of fashion to the ef- to be.to escape entirely from the over- fect that they will no longer rank as picturesque, . overtrimmed fashion* spite prevailed prime favorites. In of all the which have rather' this win- rumors, however,, the influence of the ter. It'is very much Ilk,« the frocks empire Viyle is most distinctly notice- which were in vogue before tha eras* able, and princess gowns are most pop- for the empire and princess styles cam* ular. There is not the same exagger- in. Itis neat, simple, becoming to al-~ ated rendering of the fashion in either most any flgui-e. and somehow more ia rare. buVthe lines have b«en tried and accord with the necessities of up-to- found so generally becoming that the date existence than the more effective fashions are bound to remain with us but less generally becoming empire and n while longer. Most interesting i3it princess styles. This midseasoa style to notice how the lines have been of frock, however, may be mad* de- adapted to the individual, to accentuate cidedly effective if that is what is de- slenderness, to disguise stoutness, and sired by the use of materials iof un- by the hang skirt to give style design. and striped of the*"*- usual "White black am) grace. voiles or white and gray voiles .and Net lace or chiffon gowns for theater eoliennes make up into most striking near are extremely smart and also costumes even when the style emptoyfed most practical, although that advan- v)s one of simple lines and not much tage does not as a rule enter Into the trimmed The waist usually has a shal- calculations of the average woman, to low yoke of lace, and beneath this a whom clothes represent the end and pointed chemisette reaching halt way aim of existence. As has already been down the front of the waist. This said, th*» figured chiffons and gauzos low*r portion. Is mad© of a different are most attractive, but then other material from the yoke. For Instance, material! 5, trimmed with bands of silk if the yok* 13 made of Irish lace the or velvet, are extremely smart. The dependent chemisette may be mad* of clever way. in which the bands of rib- guipure.' or ifthe yoke be of guipure bon or silk arc used to trim the skirts the chemisette might be tucked net. rioes not. as lsjght be supposed, cut Tlaid blue and green voile, checked the lines of the figure and make a tan ,and stout, brown and and similar rich T.-oman look short and but for quiet colorings are among those most com« inexplicable reason, known only popular style of frock, dressmaker, makes for this to the artist the \u25a0 • «— »«\u25a0. .»\u25a0'\u25a0\u25a0»\u25a0« y.fOST fetching are the new lin^erl* IIhats which are now being shown Shirt Waist Fancies for children, but which may also the new spring Bhirt be worn by Southern resort summer very dainty ones ffirls. They are not made of such heavy •waists are vogue year, The linen as those in last and made of lightweight linen. there will not be the same opportunity RSIONGmaterial Is really handkerchief for utilizing centerpieces as there was linen, but not of the sheerest or lightest then. The \u25a0 new hats are moderate la length of crown. variety. It is about the weight of width of brim and They are made of fine linen or batiste linen used for men's handkerchiefs. and trimmed with narrow Valenciennes \u25a0 plaited, some guipure with a em- These blouses are side figure look more slender than ever. A •Ilk. makes a most serviceable , dress for. tho , theater ...taffeta satin chiffons in. much of.lace and skirt novel about pink opens most charming model on princess lines, but have been lately superseded; by the summer luncheons and musicales that a made'. withVlace"; or chiffon insertion to although the empire ones are novel as hu^e roses. There are also hat* /plaits inthe back of a waist that linen, especially in odd very unbecoming, being apt or with the ribbon put on in horizontal printed before mentioned. .A distinct departure is;necessary.. An;all lighten it."*there are many, extremely regards the lines and the way in which In colored in front are bayadere plan. may therefore, shades of blue with white embroidery, jto the -waist bag In the back. lines rather than the black chiffon skirt now be elabo- white lac«-gown, no' smart cloth evening dresses. Naturally the trimming,' or rather the pattern, make To make the skirt hang well It is cut rately tucked, the white showing; so intrinsically valuable, not now .lightest the unlined that are most effective. Now is th* \u25a0Thes* waists are made with large how will only the and ,most delicate follows' lines. The . small are fullness, cuffs e^remelywide and full, but the full- distinctly between the tucks only serv- attract the same attention as a far less are suitable,; for the'" yoke and collar *of white :lace and the time for young women who clever j«lecves of medium with - shades in^ color — ,with busy deep. ness is put in well below the hips,;so ing to lighten the gown. The bodice is handsome \ but more effect! ye ;gown* of even in the Wdlte lace real, not imitation— cuffs their needles to thomselve* (about five inches The cuffs have more than material --the making a of plainness that there shall :not be even an relieved and made suitable for \ the some -other material. The- black and may be kept wholly distinct. to match relieve the perhaps too som- in sufficient assortment 'tucks to break their and a unnecessary Jmlf however, sown from headgear to last them half their depth. These inch of width around ths evening by,- a collar and deep; yoke; of white lace gowns.- .made-up a reception costume., The: skirt may ber, effect.'. Liberty satin gowns' are this beauteous turnover about hips. As may readily bn understood, rich lacei while' the are - elaborately ribbon, velvet, jot and through the summer, for there Is llttl* turnover cuffs are embroidered either 'sleeves- often with be made on the hish girdle, empire even smarter than the net arid these popular- It all th* thread. They this it riot an easy problem to;solve, wholly of lace ;and white chiffon, or hand embroidery,. are. now. fashionable model, with loosoplalt at the back, and have spangled .embroidery. Gray Is doubt that willhave In white <>r colored the, ' ity seasons, which it linen re- but then the dressmaker's art is today again are of black chiffon, embroi- forjthc play;or for dinner, supper; and the rbodice of \u25a0; ;or net charming with the cut steel or- silver of former besides 'ax* made of sheerer than the well, developed only touch", is then chiffon is expensive as it is dainty wasst. The which so that any modiste dered with a"' of,lace at: the popular* restaurant.' Some gowns: are ;in some way with 'bands jof beads and paillettes combined and with brocade that in-the right on the waist. , liberty aatin. black, plant usually Another embroidery. '\u25a0'..} noticeable, < black; smart; somber, of without water or air. The - been put ate hand . i' more \ and \u25a0;-for. a handsome is rarely, itis too' mauve or gray,". Is excellent for this waist which has Just on the > colors.are most "effective. .'..'. / ln this way is the wintergreen, a At present "black and white 1affects dress the conspicuous should always be and any.; light trimming seems to look purpose, the skirt plain, and with span- used. market for the spring is also of fairly are vogue, in, i charmingly beautiful little plant either much in especially light, striven for so. long as it keeps within out of'place.- '".,,_ jrled embroidery^ on the waist, or, as or a. rood weight handkerchief linen. Itis transparent textures, as lace, net, gauze limits, perfect ;'\ broadcloth, Spangled Gowns illustrated, for a . table centerpiece to tfve front is buttoned in the of taste.' * A'fine grade of 'or ladies' Jet .with' trimming on the. skirt plaited in the and chiffon. "Black chiffon \u25a0 elaborately .}. Satins, -velvets' :heavy ana be", with..clever handling,' Spangled net gowns are not ..really design, ; touch of the woods to a drawlhs-room. front; a ruffle of the linen edged and and silks cloth.Vcam ' in outline and the waist as well. green bright the made up with'lace, jet and embroidery brocades are now so -generally effective theater dress, but it appropriate, but there are some most Mauve, chiffon, liberty Its dark leaves and scart*t borders either side of worn^at made^an 1 ' combined' with never with narrow lace and laid over a foundation of satin or dinners/ balls and the; opera 'that, -save is not an easy material to work with,as attractive jet spangled gowns that are satin and with a amount berries have before received the central plait, reaching frem the small of proper appreciation. According to th« reck to the belt- The turnback cuffs new method the wlntergr^en Is new put arc also bordered with a very shallow in the bottom of a glass globe, beinjc plaited ruffle, as is the turnover collar. planted In moss. Itmay be placed oi> The shirtwaists are more and FEMININE FINEI^V SEEN IN TME FASHIONABLE SHOPS a glass plate covered with a glas»i waistcoat • .very and prominent among the spring im- of all, because it is probably body who has ;over been: forced to keep' match each :gown. ;A fashionable tlic thinnest- of silk or lisle stockings They are' also over globe. As no can get to the plant more ! embroidered all air ; for compromise rlowest portations. In these a waistcoat, asu- most useful to the greatest num- boxes clothes Minder" the -bed ;,wlll shop shows ,a3 a " :in'this 'di- aridv the' '.ot ballroom : pumps with pearls or gold sequins. it is preserved without watering. It is , ; ; so", new, bravedthe.wintry storm., fcilv embroidered, is set at the side women, new "bed realize :.what a boon a >box, easily, rection a-i red and black boot that ._i. remarkable how bright" the plant lie?ps or is ber of Is the Generally,, ordinary roost JResides'thored and, of the *faips and fastens infront double- handled would be.! wouldgo^well with" costumes.- The black boots those most fashionable acces- under the glass. It Is said that violet style waist, box,", which has just been invented used", ; >' .the, black,s tan*ahd.black, r kept breasted; The same of FIRST boxes* in thls^manner_cause .'as lower part iof';. the } boot isIof red of gray and' black ;sorles '\u25a0 to bridesmaids' plants can also be ia this way. ; veryMark and-; •etc.; aro", ; ONE costumes at somewhat modified, has not the waist- by a New York firm which "devotes much loss, of .temper; to.women" as the Russian' leather, :t and really, a 'white^ also fashionable. present are 1 -• ; • the Alsatian bows for the Paris, coat but a double breasted effect, all the exclusively turning out- con- ordinary, collar button; loss does to!m'eni shade jbetween brown'and red. The up- Tho .black' arid white bobfaZhave the 818 sets from now being itself to 'also; hair. These Tare especially suitable /"* way from the top to the belt. This. ls disposal -The box is made: very..; light,In pers^arelofjblack'oqzc."*The boot Is a uppers of white and* theitah: and black for V_shbwn In the shops, are among th* style embroidery; yenient arrangements for the weight,* ; perfection. button^oneiiheavyj and* ;f ,the" lighter, for, tops, young glrls.either. produced by the of "whlch^adds ito Its.' meant or.winf also have color the' for'the occasions of exquisite examples of The, is one \u25a0 light ; , \u25a0 gray,' weddings, most needlework that !\u25a0, the waist is embroidered to of one's wardrobe. bed box The {framework Isr of \ » wood, '.the terluse^or^walking, i; / :/ \u25a0-: as do also? the and^black. .There or "foY^evenlng; functions. . \u25a0 ; a breasted -waistcoat, things sides and top.being covered with*flow- • Boots,"In*?,fact,';: seem ,rather; toihave are most' attractive boots^ also with.the They are exceedingly dashing ap- 'that even that home of dainty things simulate double of the most practical and useful • . in undershe«ts, ;chintz. j other; styles' of part' 1tan '\u25a0 leather; :up- •pearance .yet very simple, has 'sent out. There are with lapels at the top. ever invented, especially for women ered sides vare^not solid," supplanted the ties'and; lower of and the " and and are ties which are shown for - but have !uprights "ofiwood^at; which "were .; so;- fashionable pers of,the jsoftest brownish Igray;ooze. \ much more ,becoming 'to young 'girls oversheets and coverlids, all of th* The little rooms or r intervals low 4 shoes ' " : linen, are most at- who live.in :small : : who . for to" keep sagging .:In.; for street'wear.^ Perhaps In>evening^ slippers -and ,tunder thaivT or;aigrette moat exquisite hemstitched and \u25a0use with these shirtwaists 1 them .ffom^ That last winter': :."'* shoes feather"/ ornaments. They are, some of them In other reasons. are obliged to make use part" of the lwoodworki. which the 'iharvest tof/pneumonia; ,grip'f}and generally, there, is great .variety. Bronze *,while - they are also newer, though not monogrammed In the moat perfect style. tractive. satin, every, inch of space for their clothes.' ;" ''- ishows'^is .very, attractive, becoming being embroidered most bows made of of painted In enamel 'vwhlte. ;:Altogether, klndredlills L which!followed; that? peril-; slippers are .withjem-~~ more than tho" leaf or 'the coverlid the form of little ". ' as • - flower stocky, with short fat loops and The box is square and about. half; the; box1is 'asj; attractive in'appearance ousi fashion ;hasUaught ieven .the'; njadr broidery, "of ;and "^;gold beads ;wreaths. delicately and perfectly finished with. rather Bright colors, deep Is,wide, makes] it just pursued* slippers r • bow, go« - having vine embroWery and pointed double ends. es- as \X which as it,ls 'Convenient for,use.. ; cap^maideris ;, who; it.a^ lesson. across' ilh'e' toe.^Th.e pumps Arid Tho : : 3flirectly'?in front, a a ruffle a plaids rights to !easily,.* a nowadays colors, piece edges. With these joe* i pecially blues, Roman and the size fit under OneTTarelyJseeS; c \vhat .was 'so are also y made of ooze inall\ and -'. twisted "o* the .*material , going buttonholed • has' four, ! v!buckles, single ' pillow, stripes and flowered ribbons are all single iron\u25a0or brass bed. It C.;OOTWEAR^ shows "a- tendency for cornmonVal Bightjajyearjagb.^that ;Js/- a * roses, "'\u25a0 around ;' the ;high colfflire -as a snood. heart-shaped also of the finest- *f divisions, four lids. It Is set; on areftrlm'med-wlth * "may either, linen, an juwpose. but the most re- and 1 tlriy.'.wreathia ot flowers and bead etri-. The bows be :made gauze with embroidered raffle and uiefl for this rollers, gentle I.. going ';:into colors' that ;ls a ,little yourig^oman^wrappedtiriifurs'andlvel-" l ' of fashion along this line is ball-bearing; so \,thaty a \ , * • vets,; with':her|head fand Ifacel'protected broldery.'-i '•;Ballroom*:]slippers 'of.; sa'tlri sprinkled with"crystals, gold',spangles, a fine embroidery maUhtny th* coverlid.' cent fad of will;send; r whirling and startli ng. :it;really looks as if'; every ' gold liberty edgo heart.*; for little bows of.Quaker colored satin push it around' by^heavyihatlandiyells.^herlharids'bur- and brocade ,*!are ;withh Vetc. of satinor. Velvet tomatch around the outer of the bring ; compartment; ;the person a »foiibwingr w ; [ahddinf ornaments,'! or; ; .costume, or, pillow, embroidered la grays, grayish brown and" slate color. the desired to . with.- claim fto the ied' in a muff facCisuitably.iat- and 'silver ': .'rhlnestone s contrast -with the ' 1 ot The is not tb« tremendously chic with.th« •dge of the it can be opened fashions would have.to]add the cold,' M^teryfdayf.wlth's b'uckiea,, jewel* buckles "or- cloth :of gold;or; ;.The as this mlzht hurt th* aof t These are bed.^where to other tiredjfor^a; the' colored and silver. bow .' Is .middle." . without. pulllngVout* the' box. ;i2vcry- expensesof her'toilettethat fof to exception =feet and ? ankles, -little? wreaths' .'of ;flowers. ;aulte large 'and very jaunty. baby checlc Turnover collar. boots' of I .which In nanisiits't'or M^nMMKMMkaaa>Mehdk>4Hß'.