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The Traveler in New Orleans

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The Traveler in New Orleans Advertising booklet, Singer Sewing Machine Souvenirs of New Orleans, ca. 1895 (197425.17.128), and postcard, showing the levee at Chalmette, ca. 1900 (1988.45) "MUCH OF NOVELTY": THE TRAVELER IN NEW ORLEANS New Orleans has always elicited strong Visitors' Impressions of the Crescent City, takes reactions from its visitors- wonder, incredu­ a look at the city through the eyes of the visitor, lity, admiration, sometimes disapproval, some­ from the mid-1700s to the middle of the 20th times delight. Travelers have been quick to note century. One hundred years ago Charles Dud­ the unusual character of the city, quick to react ley Warner observed in Studies in the South to a place that was not at all like home. and West that " ... whatever way we regard New Opening in May, the next exhibition at the Orleans, it is in its aspect, social tone, and Collection, 'Way Down Yonder in New Orleans: character sui generis; its civilization differs widely from that of any other, and it remains one of the most interest­ ing places in the republic." As guides to the city, these earlier travelers make good com­ panions in their attempts to define the distinctive character of New Orleans. Charles Mackay, author of Life and Liberty in America, wrote in the 1850s that "New Orleans is less like an American city than any other in the United States, and reminds the European of Havre or Boulogne-sur-Mer." Although the exhibition includes an observation or tvJo from the 18th century, it was during the 19th century that travelers proliferated - and travel commentary increased. English and Continental visitors set out to describe the new and growing country of America to their compatriots and, in several instances, to report on suitable Poydras Market (One of the French Markets) by J . Durkin, ca. 1885 places of residence to prospective (1947 22) immigrants. Viewpoints, naturally, differed according to the traveler's temperament and situation. Karl visitor from the American East and River. In 1821, a Frenchman, Bernhard, Duke of Saxe-Weimer­ Midwest to write about the surpris­ Edouard de Montule described the Eisenach, who attended balls and ing sights and unusual customs river "covered with a forest of ships other social events during his nine -at least to an Anglo-American of all sizes; its depth permits them weeks in New Orleans in 1826, was eye. Newspaperman Henry to come right to the shore, formed more sympath~tic toward the city McElwin, writing in 1885 at the by a levee which stems its force." than the fractious Mrs. Trollope, time of the World's Industrial and He continued, "Without this dike, whose Domestic Manners of the Cotton Centennial Exposition, vis­ New-Orleans would be inundated, Americans (1832) contains the ob­ ited the French Market on Sunday, for the level of the river is four or servation that "New Orleans pre­ which, he said, "was in full blast, five feet above that of the city, sents very little that can gratify the for the citizens do all their market­ which becomes even lower as one eye of taste, but nevertheless there ing Sunday, instead of Saturday, leaves the river and eventually is much of novelty and interest for as we do in the North .... For music loses itself, so to speak, in marsh a newly arrived European." on Sunday, we had organ-grinders, land." Much of novelty also inspired the Italian orchestras, street pi­ Such geography contributed to a anos ... and a noisy brass band ad­ fine indigenous architecture, fre­ vertising a horse race and shooting quently remarked upon by travel­ match to come off in the afternoon." ers. In 1770, a Captain Pittman The 20th-century visitor has been wrote that "most of the houses are likely to take a nostalgic view of but of one floor, raised about eight the city, colored by the romance of feet from the ground, with large the past - seeing New Orleans as galleries round them ... " A century a blend of people, customs, and later, a writer describes substantial climate that nurture the creative houses - still designed to accom­ spirit. For playwright Tennessee modate the semi-tropical climate Williams, New Orleans was his - with French windows in the spiritual home; he wrote about a Louis XV manner, and "open stone part of the city where "you are passages, .. .porte cochere and broad, practically always just around the low staircases, leading from an corner, or a few doors down the open court-yard ... with a broad­ street, from a tinny piano being leafed fig-tree or clustering vine played with the infatuated fluency spreading over them .... " of brown fingers." Or, there is this summary from What first impressed the traveler the spirited George Augustus Sala, and set the city apart was its writing of the Pontalba buildings The Creole ofNew Orleans, published by geography, low and flat and situ­ at Jackson Square in 1882: "The A . Baker, between 1830-1835 (195627) ated in a curve of the Mississippi houses look Spanish, the merchan- 2 dise is American, the manners are French." Nineteenth-century travelers found that the Creoles - descen­ dants of the French and Spanish settlers - were a distinct element, living in the old quarter of the city. But Englishman Henry Murray observed at mid-century that the Creoles are "very sensibly seeking alliances with the go-ahead blood of the Anglo-Saxon, and I expect that but little French will be spo­ ken in New Orleans by the year 1900." Still, the Creole's enjoyment of life was enduring and singled out by the traveler-writer. Another Eng­ lish visitor, geologist Sir Charles Lyell, wrote of Mardi Gras in 1849: "It was the last day of the Carnival. From the time we landed in New England to this hour, we seemed to have been in a country where all, whether rich or poor, were laboring from morning till night, without ever indulging in a holi­ day. I had sometimes thought that the national motto should be, 'All work and no play.' It was quite a novelty and a refreshing sight to 1ffi THE HISTORIC A Glimpse Through a Gateway r!J. NEWORLEANS by William Hamilton Gibson, ca.1888 (1960.65) ~ COLLECTION see a whole population giving up treacherous climate that beguiles . ~ ~ NEWSLETTER their minds for a short season to him, but quite as much the easy amusement." terms on which life can be lived. Editors: Patricia Brady, Louise C. Hoffman Then, as now, a traveler could There is a human as well as a be comforted by well-prepared food. climatic amiability that wins him." Head of Photography: Jan White A tasty gumbo was not lacking in The exhibition - how the city The Historic New Orleans Collec­ has captured the traveler's eye tion Newsletter is published quarter­ 1853, according to the Swedish ly by the Historic New Orleans Col­ writer, Fredrika Bremer. "The New -will open May 24 and remain lection, which is operated by the Kem­ per and Leila Williams Foundation, a Orleans dinner was remarkably until October. Louisiana non-profit corporation. good," she wrote, "and gumbo is the -Louise C. Hoffman Housed in a complex of historic build­ crown of all the savory and remark­ ings in the French Quarter, facilities Sources: Fredrika Bremer, The Homes of the New are open to the public. Tuesday able soups in the world- a regular through Saturday, from 10:00 a.m. World (New York, 1968); Thomas D. Clark, ed., until 4:45 p.m. Tours of the history elixir of life of the substantial Travels in the Old South, vol. 3 (Norman, Okla., galleries and the residence are avail­ 1969); Sir Charles Lyell, A Second Visit to the able for a nominal fees. kind." United States of North America (New York, 1849); The city's portrait emerges from Charles Mackay, Life and Liberty in America (New Board of Directors: two centuries of observations as a York, 1859); Henry McElwin, New Orleans Exposi­ Benjamin W. Yancey, President tion, Texas and Old Mexico (Elyria, Ohio, 1885); Mrs. William K. Christovich place to reward the traveler with G. Henry Pierson, Jr. Edouard de Montule, Travels in America 1816- Francis C. Doyle "much of novelty." After Warner 1817 (Bloomington, Ind., 1951); Henry A. Murray, John E. Walker described New Orleans as sui gene­ Lands of the Slave and the Free (London, 1857); Captain Philip Pittman, The Present State of the Dode Platou, Director ris, he went on to say, "To the European Settlements on the Mississippi Northern stranger the aspect and (Gainesville, Fla., 1973); George Augustus Sala, The Historic New Orleans Collection America Revisited (London, 1882); Frances Trol­ 533 Royal Street the manners of the city are foreign, New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 lope, Domestic Manners of the Americans (New (504) 523-4662 but if he remains long enough he York, 1960); Charles Dudley Warner, Studies in is sure to yield to its fascinations, the South and West (London, 1890); Tennessee ISSN 0886-2109 Williams, A Streetcar Named Desire (Garden City, and become a partisan of it. It is New York, 1947); Therese Yelverton, Teresina in © 1989 not altogether the soft and some­ America (London, 1875). The Historic New Orleans Collection what enervating and occasionally 3 At First Sight For many years the port was the point of arrival for people traveling to New Orleans. Passengers alighted amidst the cargo and confusion of the levee, first having been greeted with scenes of flatboats, barges, and seagoing vessels navigating the waterways, steamboats moored along the docks in tiers five or six deep, and a "forest of masts whose termination [was] hidden by the bend of the river." Once upon the scene, passengers observed masses of cargo awaiting transshipment, barrels of sugar and molasses, and the numerous cotton presses where cotton bulk was reduced by pres­ surization.
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