Top Rope Belaying

Total Page：16

File Type：pdf, Size：1020Kb

Instructions for Wednesday night belay practice and climbing trips: 1. Put on a harness 2. Get a partner and an instructor 3. Get one rope and one belay device 4. Take turns being a belayer and a “climber” 5. Practice belaying and tying into the rope 1st Rule of Belaying Your brake hand never lets go of the rope!! Belay Device Principle Rope from climber is fed into upper side of belay device Reversed when belaying from above Belay Device Use Pull Break Under Slide 6 to 12 inches Lower than device Grab rope under your Your break hand break hand toward device Watch out for Your Hand In a fall, it isn’t uncommon for a little rope to feed through belay device You can catch your hand in device if not careful Belay Anchor 2nd Rule of Belaying Your brake hand never lets go of the rope!! Basic Signals CLIMBER: BELAYER: On Belay? Belay On – Asking if belayer is – After double checking that ready everything is ready Climbing Climb On – I’m ready to climb – You can now climb – Climber should not climb before belayer signals this Off Belay Belay is off – I’ve finished climbing – I have removed the rope and am in a safe place from the belay device During a check, both belay and climber check both belayer and climber Other Signals (for the climber) “ROCK” – Watch Out! SOMETHING is falling “UP ROPE” – Take up slack in rope “THAT’S ME” – Indicates to belayer that all the slack has been removed from rope “TAKE” – Take up rope and apply tension (climber needs rest or is ready to be lowered back to bottom) “SLACK” – Remove tension from rope (more for lead climbing).

Copy Link

Recommended publications

Mcofs Climbing Wall Specifications
THE MOUNTAINEERING COUNCIL OF SCOTLAND The Old Granary West Mill Street Perth PH1 5QP Tel: 01738 493 942 Website: www.mcofs.org.uk SCOTTISH CLIMBING WALLS: Appendix 3 Climbing Wall Facilities: Specifications 1. Climbing Wall Definitions 1.1 Type of Wall The MCofS recognises the need to develop the following types of climbing wall structure in Scotland. These can be combined together at a suitably sized site or developed as separate facilities (e.g. a dedicated bouldering venue). All walls should ideally be situated in a dedicated space or room so as not to clash with other sporting activities. They require unlimited access throughout the day / week (weekends and evenings till late are the most heavily used times). It is recommended that the type of wall design is specific to the requirements and that it is not possible to utilise one wall for all climbing disciplines (e.g. a lead wall cannot be used simultaneously for bouldering). For details of the design, development and management of walls the MCofS supports the recommendations in the “Climbing Walls Manual” (3rd Edition, 2008). 1.1.1. Bouldering walls General training walls with a duel function of allowing for the pursuit of physical excellence, as well as offering a relatively safe ‘solo’ climbing experience which is fun and perfect for a grass-roots introduction to climbing. There are two styles: indoor venues and outdoor venues to cater for the general public as a park or playground facility (Boulder Parks). Dedicated bouldering venues are particularly successful in urban areas* where local access to natural crags offering this style of climbing is not available.
[Show full text]
2. the Climbing Gym Industry and Oslo Klatresenter As
Norwegian School of Economics Bergen, Spring 2021 Valuation of Oslo Klatresenter AS A fundamental analysis of a Norwegian climbing gym company Kristoffer Arne Adolfsen Supervisor: Tommy Stamland Master thesis, Economics and Business Administration, Financial Economics NORWEGIAN SCHOOL OF ECONOMICS This thesis was written as a part of the Master of Science in Economics and Business Administration at NHH. Please note that neither the institution nor the examiners are responsible − through the approval of this thesis − for the theories and methods used, or results and conclusions drawn in this work. 2 Abstract The main goal of this master thesis is to estimate the intrinsic value of one share in Oslo Klatresenter AS as of the 2nd of May 2021. The fundamental valuation technique of adjusted present value was selected as the preferred valuation method. In addition, a relative valuation was performed to supplement the primary fundamental valuation. This thesis found that the climbing gym market in Oslo is likely to enjoy a significant growth rate in the coming years, with a forecasted compound annual growth rate (CAGR) in sales volume of 6,76% from 2019 to 2033. From there, the market growth rate is assumed to have reached a steady-state of 3,50%. The period, however, starts with a reduced market size in 2020 and an expected low growth rate from 2020 to 2021 because of the Covid-19 pandemic. Based on this and an assumed new competing climbing gym opening at the beginning of 2026, OKS AS revenue is forecasted to grow with a CAGR of 4,60% from 2019 to 2033.
[Show full text]
Analysis of the Accident on Air Guitar
Analysis of the accident on Air Guitar The Safety Committee of the Swedish Climbing Association Draft 2004-05-30 Preface The Swedish Climbing Association (SKF) Safety Committee’s overall purpose is to reduce the number of incidents and accidents in connection to climbing and associated activities, as well as to increase and spread the knowledge of related risks. The fatal accident on the route Air Guitar involved four failed pieces of protection and two experienced climbers. Such unusual circumstances ring a warning bell, calling for an especially careful investigation. The Safety Committee asked the American Alpine Club to perform a preliminary investigation, which was financed by a company formerly owned by one of the climbers. Using the report from the preliminary investigation together with additional material, the Safety Committee has analyzed the accident. The details and results of the analysis are published in this report. There is a large amount of relevant material, and it is impossible to include all of it in this report. The Safety Committee has been forced to select what has been judged to be the most relevant material. Additionally, the remoteness of the accident site, and the difficulty of analyzing the equipment have complicated the analysis. The causes of the accident can never be “proven” with certainty. This report is not the final word on the accident, and the conclusions may need to be changed if new information appears. However, we do believe we have been able to gather sufficient evidence in order to attempt an
[Show full text]
Kitsap Basic Climbing
! KITSAP MOUNTAINEERS BASIC CLIMBING COURSE Class 4 and Field Trips 4 & 5 BASIC CLIMBING - CLASS #4 ROCK CLIMBING Class #4 Topics Rock Climbing Process Rock Climbing Techniques Anchors Field Trip Leader Q & A (Field Trip 4) Assigned Reading (complete prior to Class #4) Assigned Reading: Freedom Of The Hills Subject Alpine Rock Climbing ...............................................................Ch 12 Basic Climbing Course Manual All Class #4 Material Additional Resources Find a good book on stretching exercises—it is helpful to loosen up before rock climbing. ROPED CLIMBING OVERVIEW Roped climbing involves the leader and follower(s) attached to a rope for protection as they ascend and descend, so that in the event of a fall the rope can be used to catch the falling climber. In basic rock climbing, the leader is tied into one end of a rope and the follower (second) into the other end. The follower may also attach to a “ground anchor” and will prepare to belay the leader by feeding the rope through his/her belay device. When the follower (belayer) is ready (follower yells: “BELAY ON”), the leader ascends a section of rock (leader: “CLIMBING”, follower: “CLIMB”) while placing protection gear and connecting the climbing rope to the protection as he/she climbs upward. In event of a fall (leader: “FALLING!”), the belayer stops the fall by “braking” the rope at the belay device, and tightening the rope through the protections. When the leader has reached the top of the section (pitch), the leader sets up an anchor and attaches him/ her. The leader tells the follower to take him/her off belay (leader: “OFF BELAY”).
[Show full text]
Improving Rock Climbing Safety Using a Systems Engineering Approach
Lyle Halliday u5366214 Improving Rock Climbing Safety using a Systems Engineering Approach ENGN2225- Systems Engineering and Design, Portfolio Abstract This portfolio outlines an application of Systems Engineering methods to the sport of Rock climbing. The report outlines an organized, logical analysis of the system that is involved in making this sport safe and aims to improve the system as a whole through this analysis. Steps taken include system scoping, requirements engineering, system function definition, subsystem integration and system attributes which contribute toward a final concept. Two recommendations are made, one being a bouldering mat which incorporates the transportation of other equipment, the other being complete, standardised bolting protocols. These concepts are then verified against the design criteria and evaluated. 1.0 System scoping: A systematic way of establishing the boundaries of the project and focusing the design problem to an attainable goal. The project focuses on Lead Climbing. 2.0 Requirements engineering: Establishing the true requirements of climbers, and what they search for in a climbing safety system 2.1 Pairwise Analysis: Establishing safety, ease of use and durability as primary design goals 2.2 Design Requirements and Technical Performance Measures: Specifying the design requirements into attainable engineering parameters. 2.3 House of Quality: Identifying the trade-offs between safety and functionality/ cost and the need for a whole-of-systems approach to the problem, rather than a component approach. 3.0 System Function Definition: Establishing concepts and system processes. 3.1 Concept Generation and Classification: Identifying possible and existing solutions on a component level and taking these to a subsystem level.
[Show full text]
Belaying » Get It Right!
BeLaYing » get it right! British Mountaineering Council Working for Climbers, hill Walkers and Mountaineers CheCk Harness CheCk KnOT CheCk BeLaY PAY aTTENTiOn! KnOw how to use your gear there are many different ropes and belaying devices available. read and understand the manufacturer’s instructions. if still unsure, get advice from someone more experienced. never belay with equipment you do not know how to use. COnTrol the rOpe Belaying is a complex skill requiring practice and experience to become competent. inattentive belaying is the cause of many preventable climbing accidents. Mistakes can result in serious injuries for climber, belayer or both. Check both climber’s knot and belay device before starting a climb. ensure your rope is long enough for your climb. if in doubt knot the free rope end. Pay attention and keep a controlling hand on the rope. geT in the BesT pOsiTiOn Anticipate the direction of pull, and position yourself appropriately. if you stand near the foot of a climb you are less likely to be pulled off balance when holding a fall or lowering a climber. if there is a lot of rope paid out the climber could hit the ground. Standing near the climb results in less rope between belayer and climber. When the climber is not moving, hold the rope in the locked position. suppOrT BriTisH CLiMBing – jOin THe BMC TOdaY: WWW.THeBMC.Co.uk T: 0161 445 6111 Belay deviCe deSign there are two types of belay device: manual devices and assisted braking devices. A manual device employs mainly friction, allowing some rope slippage when holding a fall.
[Show full text]
California— Yosemite
California— Yosemite: (1) On October 25, 1952 a party composed of Bill Long, Dick Long, A l Steck and William Dunmire (22) set out to attempt an ascent of the El Capitan Buttress (east of the main face). Steck and Dunmire were the first rope of two, and on the third pitch it was Dunmire’s turn to lead. Steck, belaying from a four foot wide ledge, was anchored to a piton and had placed another piton through which he belayed Dunmire. The route led up alongside a vertical crack into which Dunmire placed two pitons, about 6 feet apart. Along this crack was a large block which appar ently was not a part of the cliff but wedged in on one side and the pitons tested soundly, and he felt he had no real reason to doubt their security. Another higher crack failed to be satisfactory for piton use. A spade piton, however, was placed under a somewhat rotten flake. This also was tested. Dunmire warned Steck that the top piton was not too sound. He used it for direct aid to gain a small foothold three feet above. At this point, three feet above the highest piton, twelve feet above the next and and about twenty feet above the belayer, he attempted to place a fourth piton at arms length above him in a horizontal crack under an overhang. While he was hammering his feet slipped and he fell. He fell nearly free, striking the cliff only once and landed on his shoulder and head on a ledge about 15 feet below Steck.
[Show full text]
Clinic: Two-Person Glacier Travel & Solo Crevasse Rescue
Clinic: Two-Person Glacier Travel & Solo Crevasse Rescue Krzysztof Ostrowski last updated on 12/8/2019 Audience: climb leaders and 2nd and higher-year intermediate students Prerequisites: One of the following badges: Climb Leader, Intermediate Alpine Climbing Course, Intermediate Alpine Climbing Course Student Duration: 3-4 hours (one evening on a weekday, or preferably, half a day on a weekend) Location: Mountaineers Program Center (rappel stations at the north wall) Dates: first session ideally in mid-December, potentially again in January or February if there’s interest Number of students: 4-8 (rope teams of two, students should sign up with a partner) Number of instructors: 2-4 (ideally one instructor per rope team, minimum one per two rope teams) Cost: free Students will learn how to: ● Setup efficiently for glacier travel as a single two-person team: distance between climbers, knots on the rope (when to use, how to space), tie-in, kiwi coil, required gear. ● Arrest a fall and build a SERENE anchor while in arrest position, without relying on external help. ● Rappel into the crevasse, provide first-aid, attach drop loop, and reascend; use runners to extend drop loop if needed. ● Setup a 6:1 mechanical advantage system and haul the fallen climber out of the crevasse while removing slack. Primary sources/references: ● Canonical reference: The Mountain Guide Manual by Marc Chauvin, Rob Coppolillo ○ When confronted with confusing or contradictory advice, it’s safe to rely on this source. ● AMGA videos from Outdoor
[Show full text]
Belaying the Leader
A4 - BELAYING THE LEADER Belaying the leader involves paying out rope through the belay device to the leader (A), holding the rope in case of a fall and then lowering the leader back to the ground once she has climbed the route. This lets the leader climb the route in safety. To belay well, the belayer (B) should: A • be able to use the belay device properly; • belay themselves to the ground/nearby crag if they are much lighter than the leader (A) or if there is a risk of them falling off an exposed ledge from which they are belaying; B • pay constant attention to the leader (A) as she climbs and stand as close in as possible to the rock; • never let go of the free end of the rope; • not pay out to the climber (A) more rope than is necessary and be ready to take-in slack rapidly if needed; • be ready to hold the companion (A) is she falls and lower her to the ground as indicated in the instructions of the belay device used. When sport climbing it is common to use a belay device with assisted braking to belay the leader. Belay devices with assisted braking are popular because, in the case of a fall, they automatically lock the rope provided the free end of the rope is held. The devices currently on the market do not always work perfectly in the following situations: • paying out rope quickly to the leader without the rope jamming; • they are dangerous if the rope is inserted incorrectly.
[Show full text]
Abseil Handbook Web Version
THE ABSEILING HANDBOOK ABSEILING HANDBOOK Abseiling is a lot of fun and may offer an experience of exhilaration, personal challenge or adrenalin rush. However, abseiling is not really a “stand alone” activity, but rather a skill that is employed in the sports of rock climbing, canyoning, caving and mountaineering, so go on and try all the rock related activities. Abseilers need to be aware that it is an activity where serious injury or death can occur as a result of; Falling off a cliff. Falling rocks. Equipment dropped by others. Failure of anchors or equipment Misuse of equipment. These risks are minimised by abseiling activities being lead by qualified persons, and by training all persons participating in an abseil activity in cliff top safety, use and care of equipment and standard calls, prior to the activity. Therefore, to become proficient in abseiling requires more than reading the information contained in this handbook, which is only intended as a learning aid to be used in conjunction with proper instruction. To become proficient requires undertaking a basic rock-craft course in the first instance, followed by regular practice under varying conditions. All persons have the responsibility for taking care of their personal safety as well as that of others. This handbook has been prepared by “Fred” Bernard Kaltenbacher Activity Leader Greater Western Sydney Region and is intended for use by Scouts for Scouts THE WAY THINGS WERE The ‘Absyle’ is used for rock work, generally for descending though it can be used of some faces for ascent. In the ‘Absyle’ the body is upright but the legs are stretched out, and the feet pressed against the rock face.
[Show full text]
Rock Climbing Fundamentals Has Been Crafted Exclusively For
Disclaimer Rock climbing is an inherently dangerous activity; severe injury or death can occur. The content in this eBook is not a substitute to learning from a professional. Moja Outdoors, Inc. and Pacific Edge Climbing Gym may not be held responsible for any injury or death that might occur upon reading this material. Copyright © 2016 Moja Outdoors, Inc. You are free to share this PDF. Unless credited otherwise, photographs are property of Michael Lim. Other images are from online sources that allow for commercial use with attribution provided. 2 About Words: Sander DiAngelis Images: Michael Lim, @murkytimes This copy of Rock Climbing Fundamentals has been crafted exclusively for: Pacific Edge Climbing Gym Santa Cruz, California 3 Table of Contents 1. A Brief History of Climbing 2. Styles of Climbing 3. An Overview of Climbing Gear 4. Introduction to Common Climbing Holds 5. Basic Technique for New Climbers 6. Belaying Fundamentals 7. Climbing Grades, Explained 8. General Tips and Advice for New Climbers 9. Your Responsibility as a Climber 10.A Simplified Climbing Glossary 11.Useful Bonus Materials More topics at mojagear.com/content 4 Michael Lim 5 A Brief History of Climbing Prior to the evolution of modern rock climbing, the most daring ambitions revolved around peak-bagging in alpine terrain. The concept of climbing a rock face, not necessarily reaching the top of the mountain, was a foreign concept that seemed trivial by comparison. However, by the late 1800s, rock climbing began to evolve into its very own sport. There are 3 areas credited as the birthplace of rock climbing: 1.
[Show full text]
Rock Climbing Equipment - 10 Min (C) Rock Climbing Techniques - 10 Min (D) Safety Tips - 10 Min (E) Conclusion - 05 Min
SER CONTENT No LESSON PLAN LESSON PLAN : ADV 3 ROCK CLIMBING Period - Five Type - Lecture -1 / Demo/Practice - 4 Code - ADV 3 Term - II / III (SD/SW) ______________________________________________________________ Training Aids 1. Computer Slides, Charts, Pointer, Black board & Chalk. Time Plan 2. (a) Introduction - 05 Min (b) Rock Climbing Equipment - 10 Min (c) Rock Climbing Techniques - 10 Min (d) Safety Tips - 10 Min (e) Conclusion - 05 Min INTRODUCTION. 3. Rock climbing is an activity in which participants climb up, down or across natural rock formations or artificial rock walls. The goal is to reach the summit of a formation or the endpoint of a pre-defined route without falling. Rock climbing competitions have objectives of completing the route in the quickest possible time or the farthest along an increasingly difficult route. AIM. 4. To acquaint NCC cadets with Rock Climbing as a part of Adventure training. PREVIEW. 5. The lecture will be conducted in following parts :- (a) Part I - Rock Climbing Equipment. (b) Part II - Rock Climbing Techniques. (c) Part III - Safety Tips. (a) PART I : ROCK CLIMBING EQUIPMENT 8. A Wide Range of Equipment Is Used During Rock Climbing. They are as follows :- (a) Rope and Webbing. Ropes used for climbing can be divided into two classes:- (i) Dynamic Ropes. These are designed to absorb the energy of a falling climber, and are usually used as Belaying ropes. When a climber falls, the rope stretches, reducing the maximum force experienced by the climber, their belayer. (ii) Low Elongation Ropes. Low elongation ropes are also called static ropes which stretch much less, and are usually used in anchoring systems.
[Show full text]