NF@DSTNRY The Journal of the Culinary Historiansof New york Volume1 . Fall20t2
Eating BigApple: Foodways {e andmetropolitan the 19th cenrury.This interplay occurred growh in lgth-.entory New york Citv in severalareas; this article will examine threeof them. First, as the city grew By Cindy R. Lobel geographicallyand demographicaliyin the 6rst half of the cenrury,it became "EvrnyrrrrNc rs DONE DTFFERINTLy lN becamea food city when it becamea a commuter city. A new inseitution_ NEw Yom FRoM ANywHnnr _ ntsn but metropolis. the restaurant- helpedmake commut- in eating the difference is more Indeed, striking foodwaysplayed an important ing more feasibleand conmibutedto than in any other branch of human role in econ- shapingmeropolitan growrh in the continuedpace of the workday in omy," opined New York journalist Gotham'scommercial disrricrs. GeorgeFoster.r This assessment Second,ethnic groceries,restau- couid easiiy apply york to New rantsand otherfood businesses City today,with its rich and playeda cenrrairole in immi- diverseculture offood and eatins. grant neighborhoodsand the And yet Fosrer jn wrore not 20I"2, shapingo[the erhnicciry, as but in 1849, when york New was New York solidified irs role as just developing its imageas a food an immigrant entrepor.More- city. Gotham's role asa gasrro- over, immigrant food shopsand nomiccapiral hasbecome a rruism, resraurantsboth contributed to somuch so that it is easyto imag_ and signified Gorham'sgrowing ine that New York was born with a cosmopolitanismas ir became Zagat goide and a greengroceron not only the largestbut the york's evely corner.Yet New fclod most diverseand global city in culturehas a historyjust asirs the United States.Finallv. growth into a merropolishas a his- New York's.rn.rg.n." u, th" tory. In facr, the two deveiopments nation'scommercial, financial "oysterstands inFulton Ma*et,,, awooU .ngriuing byA. iE;1;;lffi;;in areinextricably linked; New york Harpels Weeklyin 0ctober1870. continued on poge eight s Prohibition in the liquor cenrerof America By Andreu, F. Smith bition would becomethe law of the land, i liN,sS!DE but the movementto abolishalcohol in Ir ves yonx sNowrNGrN Nrw oN Americahad beengaining supporr Anne Mendelsonon 16, r9zo, JaNuanv but a largecrowcl throughout the nation sincerhe late lgrh ThomasDe Voe and New Yorkt congregated outsideGold's iiquor store cenrury.Five srareshad adopredprohibi- publicmarkers ...... 3 on Broadwayand 42ndScreet. It stocked tion legislationbefore 1900, ashad manv the bestbrandies, vintage SusanYager inrerviews winesand countiesand cities.In 1907,Georgia spirits in author Marion Nesde on Manhattan- somesaid the best becamethe firsr srateco .nu., .o-pl.," in the world. countingcalories...... ;..'....+ Gold had removedall of his prohibirion,and fiveother scates did inventory ' and placedit in wicker baskets likewiseduring the following "iiii cwoyears. Arno Schmidt, longtime on the srreer- all botrleswere sold for Cities and countiesin york 'Waldorfchef, upstareNew lookiback g1 apiece.lAll overthe ciry yorkers on his New supporredprohibirion, buc New york lifeinfood weredrinking, and ...... 6 the city's barsand City wasstrongly opposed.Liquor wasan saloonswere filled to capacity.At mid_ important business .,:i in the ciry; an lg97 IreneSax on Lunch at the Library... l0 night, toastswere raisedas the provisions surveyof Manhattanfound a ratio of one of the VolsreadAct wenr inro eifecr;rhe liquor distriburor ro every208 residents.2 Members'Books in 201Z...... ,,,1i"'17 manufacture,sale and importation of Saloonswere also an important baseof alcoholic beverages becameilleqal suppoft for Thmmany Hall's political Betty Fussellon the Frying pan - throughour the Unired Srates. machinethat had controlledcity govern_ where the river meetstiie io.L . . . . . 19 Few New Yorkers prol-ri_ ever thought ment from 1854. continued on poge twelve sr CathyKaufman,Chair A letter from the CHNY Chair Holley Atkinson, Vice Chair Catby Kauftnan Laura Hampton, Secretary Diane Klages,Treasurer \ [ /elcome to the inaugural issueof NYFoodStory,TheJournal of the Culinary Histtrians Carolyn Vaughan,Programming Y Y of Neu,York.L)nder the marvelousguidance of Editor-in-ChiefJoy Santloferand Donna Gelb, Public Relations Managing Editor Katen Berman,NYFoodStory will be publishedannually and will Linda Pelaccio,At-Large investigateissues in cuiinary cuiture especiallyrelevant to New York. The goal of NYFoodSto?j/(pronounced to rhyme with the secondsyllable in "history") Editor in Chief,JoySandofer is to make a unique, focusedand significantcoouibution to culinary history and food ManagingEditor, Karen Berman studies,with New York asits template.New York overflowswith thoughtful scholars, Culinary Historiansof New York borh independentand with institutional affiliations,some of the country'sleading culinary (CHNY) wasfounded in 1985 to schools,two extraordinaryculinary collections at major libraries,as weli asthe country's, stimulareand shareknowledge of if not rhe world's,liveliest restaurantand market scene.A New York-centricpublication the waysfood hasaffected humans is long overdueand, we anticipate,wili be welcomedby all f
eo on Poge seven s\. poge two Tomarket, to market:Aprofile of ThomasF. DeVoe
By Anne Mendelson over like vast,labyrinthine sheds, in which vendorsat individual IN uro- r grH-cENTURy GnnrNwrcn stalls sold food (generally perish- Vrrrecn, better known then as the able)and someorher arricles Ninth r$7ardof Manhattan, there lived a directly to the public. Most food- born schmoozer. His narnewas Thomas sellerswere small independent Farrington De Voe, and he knew half the farmersor self*employedarrisans; = town rhrough his work asa masterbutcher many came to Manhattan by ferry at the JeffersonMarket and most of the from Long Island or New Jersey. rest through his secondcalling asa colonel \Tholesale jobbers and "fore- of the staremiliria. Ar some poinr in stallers"(those who cornereda middle age,during the early 1850s,he vendor'swhole stock and sold it wasseized by an "ro urge improve,or ar at a markup outside the normal leastto inform myself, evenat this late marketmachinery) were gaining date."The place he choseto start doing ground. But many city-dweliers it was the New-York Hisrorical Society had neverboughr perishablefood at \Tashington Square. at a retail store- evena burcher De Voe(1811-1892) had nevergot- shop- occupyingfixed private ten beyond the three R's, and to the end premises.Their ideaof food-buy- of his life navigated English grammar by ing was to sally out ro the noisy, hope rather than dead reckoning. l He cut hectic live thearersrhat were the a notable figure in Ninth \fard circles marketsand sniff, eyeballand and militia affaits,but was keenly aware question what they found at rhe : of "the faults, or rather rhe neglect, of stall of Mrs. X or Mr. Y Fixed- A portraitof ThomasDe Voe, from an engraving by education." RobertHinshelwood Insteadoflaughing in his premiseretail establishments thatappeared as the frontspiece of DeVo e,s fhe llar,,{et face,the librarian ofthe Society,George Assistant,containing z brid desaiption of everyhunan too.t sotdin the public called"groceries" did exist, but nafiets ol the citiesd NewYork, Boston, philadelphia, and Brooklyn (1b67). H. Moore, steeredhim to stashesof old they chiefly sold nonperishable newspapersand Common Council items like coffee,sugar and spices, Iiterally understoodmear on the hoof records.The forty-somerhing colonel's though somesrores also dealt in semi- and proudly vouched for the quality of initial ideawas to investigate somemili- illicit liquor-by-the-glasssales under their offerings from farm to marker-stall tary subject. But with Moore's encour- cover of the "grocery" name. counter.They stoodat the top ofthe agemeothe found his way to the story of De Voe had beenpart of rhe market market pecking order,their pecuiiar what he really knew besr:the New York scenesince boyhood and thrived on the dignity being denotedby the black top markets and the foods they sold. His first freewheeling,often useful companion- hats that they wore at work. work,The Market BooA(1862), chronicles shipsit engendered.(Newspaper For obvious hygienic reasonsrhey more than 40 Manhattan markets from accountsdescribe his Ninth Nfard were also the mosr stringently regulated eatly Colonial times to the eveof the neighbor General N7infield Scorr, who as of the New York marker-sellers- which Civil $ ar. The second,The Marhet Assis- a perfectionisrepicure, did his own mar- meant that they were the mosr regularly tant (1857),is a buyer'sguide to any- keting, daily parking his mighty bulk shakendown by a large and crooked thing purchasableat the markets, from on a stool reservedfor his use at Jeffer- bureaucracy.In DeVoe's day, the markets kohlrabi to Christmasgreens. sonMarket, to talk politics and military (usuallynumbering 10 to 15) werea Both bookswere wrirren with rhe doingswith the "erectand sralwarr" major sourceof municipal revenueand unspokenassumption, perfectly intelli- colonelat Stall No. 8.) Nor unreason- private boodle.The actual buildings were gible to De Voe'sreaders, that the public ably, he consideredbutchers rhe crown- owned by the city, which sold individual markets were the lifeblood of the com- ing glory of rhe system.Theywere a Ieasesto the vendorsand supervisedthem munity. Already therewere signs of somewhatdifferent casethan the other under a sysremthat DeVoe later described anotherorder to come.But in the 1860s vendors,for their stock had to amive on as riddled with "black-mailing abuse" the markerswere still dominant. Physi- its own four feet, either off-loaded from and "plundering rascaliry" cally,they were big lors, usuallyroofed cattle ferriesor herdedby droverssouth- BothThe Marka Bookand TheMarket ward chrough the Manhattan srreets Assistanlvigorously convey Anne Mendzkon is i culinary historian the perspec- from King's Bridge ar SpuyrenDuyvil. tive of the 1860smarket vendors. and author of StandFacing the Srove: For all Butchers like De Voe had their own their frustrations with graft The Story of the lflomen who artistry, they slaughterhouses,for stock procured from wereproud oftheir GaveArnerica theJoy of Cooking untidy confraternity particular farmers.These "Old Burgher and its gloriousmission. They andMilk': The SuprisingStory of knew that Butchers,"as a blurb for one ofhis Milk through the Ages. continued on poge fourteen p books called them, were arrisanswho
poge fhree l'ili'L'l'1""' MEMBERSPOTLIGHT : ri.iiij:r:i: rii:ili:iJ::::::::':'. ing look at the evolution ofnutririon science To me, Hippocrares readslike any one Marion Nesde on over the centuries. of today'sself-proclaimed diet gurus. He I discussedthe mystery- and the his- informs you that he hasall the answersand why Hippocrates tory - of the calorierecently with Dr. Nes- if you just do what he says,you won't have wasright tle, and alsoasked her about how to make any problem with any aspectofhealth. better food choicesin what has becomea Most of his advicesounds iust like ours- "toxic," "eat more" environment.(By the balance with By SusanYager diet exercise.Hippocrates did way, a calorie is the amount of energy not havea name for calories,as the word required to raisethe temperature of one only cameinto usein the 18th cenrury. gram of water one degreeCelsius). But he wasvery interestedin heat,which SY: V/hy, as scientists,didyou and is what caloriesmeasure. In the book, we Malden Nesheimdecide towrire abook quote oneof his most famousaphorisms: devoted to calories? "Growing creatureshave most innate heat, MN: When my then-editorat Univer- and it is for this reasonthar they need siry ofCalifornia Presssuggested the idea, most food, deprivedof which their body I knew right awaythat I wanted to do it. pines away."He could seewhat happened The most important woddwide problems when peopledidn't haveenough food. in public health nutrition result from They got sick and died. He alsocould see habitual eating of too few or too many that food and activiry had oppositeeffects, calories.A billion or sopeoplein the but you neededboth to be healthy.And wotld areoverweight and anotherbillion what he wrote abour the food needsof don't haveenough to earro meet daily peopleof different ages- growing bodies needs.Everybody you know is rrying to needmore - alsoholds up. Theseastute cut calories.The diet industry is an enor- observationsexplain why he is considered mous business.Calorie balance is hugely the progenitorof medicalscience. important from the standpoint of econom- SY:What belie6 ofhis did not hold up well? ics and public health.As I like ro put it, ManroN Nrsrrr's nmr,\Vlry Calories MN: Hippocrateshad somefunny ideas eating lessis bad for business. Count:Frun Scienceto Pr,,litics.has a simole about the relativenutritional value ofdif- I knew from teachingand giving pub- message.She and co-authorMalden ferentfoods and thesesometimes seem hit lic lecturesthat the conceptofcalories is Nesheimsay that when it comesro weight or miss.Here he is on cheese.for examole: hard for peopleto grasp.i,lorgun Spurlock "Cheese gain or loss,calories do indeedcount, and is strong,hearing, nourishing, and proved that in 2004 documentary they count in other ways aswell. [the binding ... it is nourishing becausethe fikn) SuperSize Me! whetthe askedrandom Unfomunately,the conceprof the calorie fleshypan of the milk remainsin it; it is people on the street to define calories. - a measrueof the energyderived from heatingbecause it is fat." Not bad. But Nobody could come closeand even I had food - can be both absuacrand confusins. a then he viewed turnips asindigesrible hardtime rememberingthe precisedefini- (Okay, Caloriesare, after all, odorless,rasteless and I know lots of people who would tion. Eventheword "calories"causes trouble. invisible.In 1944,a Gallup poll revealed agreewith that). The calorieson food labelsaren't really that 84 percenrof Americans didn't know But his most egregiouserror had to dcr calories.They arekilocalories, an runounr the differenceberween a calorie and a vita- with how to feed people when rhey got 1000 times larger.So the way the word min, and it is doubtful many could give sick. He advisedwithholding food and soundsmeans one rhing and anotherthing "emptying an adequatedefinition today. However, we the veins." Galen,five hundred 1000 times bigger.I knew that e4plaining werea reasonablyslim populationin 1944, or so yearslater, saysthis meansyou all this would not be easyso I askedmy shouldstarve the sick, which and we remainedso until about 30 years we now partner Mal Nesheim,chairman of the understand ago,when the obesityepidemic began to to be somethins that will nutrition escalate. sciencedivision at Cornell for makethem worse.Physiciis of rhetime many years,to join me in this project. Dr. Nestle, who is the PauletteGod- took the staremenrliterally and used SY:Your book beginswith Hippocrates dard Professorof Nutririon, FoodStudies, bloodletting asroutioe medicalpractice. (-460 - 370B.C.) and his ideasabout food and Public Health at New York Univer- For the nen thousand years,rhe ideasof energy,and you saysome ofhis observations siry'sSteinhardt School ofCulture, Educa- Hippocrates and Galen went unchallenged arestill'right on targetJ'Can you givean and tion and Human Deveiopment,which she bloodletting continuedro be practiced exampleor two? chairedfrom 1988 through 2003,has well into the 19th cenrury.For mosr people, MN: This wasthe fint time I hadever written five other best-sellingbooks on bloodletting wasa death senrencefrom lmked at the writings of Hippocratesin any infection food and nutrition. InlVfu CaluiesCount, aswell asnutritional depletion. greatdetail. Fomrnately, the NYLI library has I sheexamines calories not iust from the can't think of anything worseto do ro all the Ineb Classicsand it was grear point ofview ofa nutririonist,bur from fun ro someonewho is ill. browsethrough them. "Hippocrates" really that ofa food historian.It offersa fascinat- SY:Hippocrates' views, alongwith those needsto go in quoration marks becausethe ofhis translatorand discipleGalen (-A.D. [:$))'^'1,,)itni"y writings weredone by multiple contempo- 130- 200) dominateduntil tfie 18th century, The FiundredYear DiJ. rariesand followers and translated,retrans- which is fascinating.V{hat allowednewideas latedand mistrarslated .'sVoracious Appetite for through the ages.But to finallybeembraced, andwhatwere they? ,rtit::: what survivedis still fascinating.The ancients LosingWeight: MN: For more than a thousandyears, werejust asworried aboutdiedng aswe are. scienceand medicine came to a vimual poge four standstill for reasonsof religiousdogma, choicesat the rime. It is still unclear alreadyprovided a large surplw of fircd. To wars, poverty andpestilence. Sfith the whetherdietary advicehas much impact do this, they changedsociery to make it Renaissance,cities grew, food supplies on individuals. socially acceptableto eat everywhere,ar any increasedand the accomplishmentsof SY:$[asn t an unintendedconsequence time of day or night, and in huge afilounrs. antiquiry were rediscovered.Sanctorius of oftheAtwater charu the beginningsofthe Beforethe 1980s,food pofiions were Padua(1 561 - 1636)gets credit for record- diet industry,as physicians likeJohn Harvey much smaller.People didn't haveto counr ing the first measurementsof food inrake Kellog instructedthe wealthy,and Lulu caloriesbecause chey were not earingso and weight. You haveto love rhe guy. He HuntPetersthe middle dass, onhowro count much. Our book reproducesa posrerfrom weighed everything he ate and drank and their cdoriesin order to eatfewer ofthem? the National Archivesof a chan oroduced excretedin urine and fecesand his bodv MN: It was,but that doesn'tmean any- by USDA lromeeconomists in 1930.It and did this everyday for about 30 years. one listened much. Kellogg ran rhe spaar illustrates l00-calorie ponioos of com- The Frencharistocrat Iavorsier (1143 - Battle Creekand pushedwhole grainsand monly consumedfoods on what must have 1194) wasthe 6nt moderncalorie scienrist. fiber.In 1918, Lulu Perers,a doctor in been5-inch plates.Portions have gorren so He useda calorimeterto prove that the California,wrote an adorablebook illus- much bigger rhar a posrerlike this today amount of hearreleased by the buming of rated by her l2-year-old nephew,Diet and would have to show fractions offood por- food in that deviceis the sameas the Heahh tuith Kqt to theCalories, whose title tions: one-third of a small hamburger,one- amount releasedby food in the body. He cleadyderives from Mary BakerEddys frfth of a bagel,or just rwo Oreo cookies. would havedone a lot more but he was Christian Sciencebible, Scienceand Heahh SYrYou referto caloriesfrom alcohol as guillotined during the with Keyto theSniptura. "secretcaloriesJ' What did you meanby that ? FrenchRevolution. Even Peters'book wasa phe- MN: Nobody everrhinks thar beer, so,by the end ofthe late $\"'s nomenalbest seller at the wine and hard liquor havecalories but they l9th century iust about time and I caneasily under- do - sevenper gram - almost as many as everything we now know stand why. Shewas an fat. And thosecalories work iust like anv about calorieshad been entenaining wrireE sympa- othercalories in the bodv unlessvou have discovered. thetic to people who had liver disease.But how wtuld you know? SY:Whydidyoude&- trouble managingweighr Alcoholic beveragesdo not haveNutrition cateyourbooktoVilbur and eminently sensible. Factslabels. I think they should. OlinAtwater? Also, shetold peoplethey SY:On a recommendationin \Ylry Calnrizs MN: AtwaterLT844- could eat anything they Countlwentto awebsiteand measured my 19071didso much of the liked aslong asthey basalmetabolic rate. (htrp://wwrv.bmi- discovering.He measured countedcalories (shades of calculator.net/bmr-calculator/)I needonlv the caloriesin thousandsof \Teight \Tatchers). about 1,100calories a dayto supportmy basic foodsand alcohol,the SY:In thelate l9th cen- metabolicfirnctions. I wish it weremore. numberconsumed by men tury, Dr, Atwater noted that Is thereaqthing I cando? and womenof differenr Americansconsumedtoo MN: The biggest diny trick of getdng agesand activity levels,the amounts lost in much sugarand fat-ladenmeats and didn't older is thar your metabolism slows down digestion and o
poge six A letter from the Chair conrinuedfrom pose rwo
tions, with proposalscoming in from asfar awayas Israel and China, with a wonder- ful mix of academicsand independentscholars. Applicants rangedfrom studentsto well-establishedauthors. It was truly an embamassmentof riches.The five-person schoiarshipreviewing committee selectedIndia Mandelkern,a PhD candidatein Late Modern EuropeanHistory at UC Berkeley,for her proposalinvestigating mid- 18th-centuryEnglish culinary identity Althoughihe onnuol as manifested through the unrapped archivesof an eating NYFoodSto nowreploces sociery,The Thurs- ry the day Club call'd the Royal Philosophers,{or TheWaldorf kitchen semionnuol CHNY Newsleffer, a $3,500 stipend.A subsidiaryaward of PeakingBehind the Wallpaperis generously I wormlythqnk Helen Brody, $1,500 was madeto ProfessorLany H. lardedwith photographs,menus and orher itsindefotigoble Spruill of MorehouseCollege in ephemerathat Schmidt collectedduring his editor,for yeors Atlanta for his work on the life and career- a trove for studentsof New York s of diligentservice ond for loying recipesof RebeccaTurner, an emanci- food history.$7hen I askedhim how he was thefoundotion for thelevel pated slavewho cooked at Guion Tav- able to keepall of thesememenros, espe- ern in Eastchester, of scholorshipthot CHNY New York, in the cially in his earlyyears when he movedfrom 19th century. \7e cannot rhank the job to job and country ro counrry so often, membershove come expect Julia Child Foundationenough for its he answeredsimply: "In a suitcase."But generoussupport, which was key to the that answeris only a partial one: evenas he in ourpublicotions. dramatic growth of the scholarshippro- wasworking 12-hour days,the amateurhis- gram this year. CHNY's other major accomplishmenrwas of the recording(of most - we had a few technicalglitches) of our programsfor podcasting.The programswill soonbe availablevia iTu.neson your Apple devicesor PC; for thosewho wish to liscen on Android devices,there are appsrhat can sync up iTuneswith the Android software, availablethrough a Googlesearch. Creating an archiveof our wonderful programs, to be sharedwith thosewho cannotattend meetingsfor variousreasons, is vital ro fulfrlling CHNYs missionto educate,in seriousyet enrertainingways, about the culrure offood and drink. iS
A letter from the Editor conrinuedfrom poge rwo
ofher favorites,the Frying Pan.Addition- ally, our members'books havealways added Eochyeor the iournolwill delve to the city's culinaryriches. This issue intounexomined corners of includesinterviews with two of our authors, NewYork's by two of our members:Marion Nestle, culinorypost, os much Thecover of a menufor a luncheonwith the queen at the Waldorf. with SusanYager, and former Vaidorf of our city'sfood historyhos yet torian in him wasworking, too. As he said Astoria chefArno Schmidr,with Karen to be written,ond NYFoodsfory * just minutesinto our first meeting,"I'm Berman asthey sharetheir thoughrsand intendsto be theploce where steepedin hisrory. discussthe their new work. I grew up in Salzburg, this Austria.The building I grew up in wasan The articlesin this issueare just tl-retip weolthof informotioncon historic building. I grew up in the new of the iceberg.Each year the journal will be published. wing, which wasbuilt in 1530." delve into unexaminedcorners of New Perhapsit was this backgroundthat ren- York's culinary past, as much of our city's food hisrory hasyet to be written, and deredSchmidt unflappableas history sat I'{YFoodStoryintends to be the place where this wealth of information can be pub- down to eat inro the dining roomshe man- lished.CHNY membersreceive the journal asa beoefitof membership,but asthe aged.'Just about everyking, queen,presi- only publication specializingin New York culinary history it wili be of valuero a dent, prime minister and movie starhad broaderaudience, anyone interesred in the culture offood. dinner at the \7aldori" he told me marter- I would like to thank the authorswho contributedthese wonderful articles to this of-factly over tea in a midtown caf6."In my inaugural issue.They took a ieap of faith with me that we could fill the journal with time," he said, "the hotel employeeswere articles about New York - and could we everl My sincereappreciation goes to rhe dedicated.They were completely apolitical. Board of Directors of cHNY; they stood behind the journal as costsrose and allowed \Thether they cookedchicken for the queen us to print the articlesas wrirren. And 6nally,a heartfelt"rhank you" to Managing or the president,rhey didn't care.We did Editor Karen Berman; our jobs." this endeavorwould neverhave seen the light of day without her steadyhand guiding joint Schmidt did more than that; he observed me in our venturero createthis first issue. it all, filed it awayand now, he hasshared ir For submissionsfor next year'sissue, which will be publishedin September201J, with us. tlj pleasesend a proposalof no more than 100 wordsto joy.santlofer(Ogmail.comby November15,2012. i5 POge seven Foodways and metropolitan growth in lgth-century New York conrinuedfrom pose one and indusmialcenter involved 17th century.?Thus, the roots not only stocks,bonds and of the sysremthat supplies shirrwaists,but alsoan impor- today'sNew Yorkers emerged tant food manufacturing, pro- in the 19th century. cessingand wholesalingsector. Equally dramaticwas the Foodthus servesnot just as impact of commuting and an important lenson but also urban growth on New York's asa contributor to many of the public dining sector.Vhen developmentsthat attended New York becamea commur- the city's rise in the 1lth cen- ing city it becamea restaurant tury, from its geographic city. Pdor to the 1820s,no spreadto Gotham'sposition as freestandingeating houses(sep- the nation'scommercial center arate from taverns)existed in and the most cosmopolitan New York or any other city in city in the world. Studying the United Statesfor thar mar- changing foodwaysin New ter. Even in Paris,the birth- York then, contextualizesthe place of the modern restaurant, growth rn. itself. freestandingrestaurants were "U T..r:.Oolis new to the mid-l8th century.3 Over the courseof the 19th Simply put, in New York, these century, New York City trans- businesseswere not necessary fotmed from a small seaportto becauseNew Yorkers ate their a majot metropolis.Its popula- mealsat home. tion doubled everydecade, But with the riseof com- growing from just over 60,000 muting, the needfor restau- in 1800to morethan 1.5mil- rantsemerged. Sawy business- lion in 1890. Thanks to new men steppedquickly into the to offer midday meal forms of transportation, New AlfredS. Gampbell'sstereograph of a pushcartselling candy on HesterStreet in NewYork, breach York also expandedgeographi- circa1896. serviceto hungry clerks,mer- cally.From a walking city clustered action ofthe city, but rather,in leafii chants and laborerswho now found within a mile of Manhattan'ssouthern districts on its edges.The emergenceof themselvestoo far from home to return tip, it developedinto a commutercity the commuting city occurredas the for the midday meal.The most famous that stretchedabove 125th Streetand earlyas the 1830s,with the develop- of thesebusinessmen were the Del- drew the surroundingregion into its ment of omnibuses.These horse-drawn monico brothers,who rurned their orbit. As it grew larger,the city grew carriages,with seatsfor 12 passengers \Tilliam Sueetpastry shop into a full- more physicallysratified, separatedinto plus standing room, allowed New York- servicerestaurant in 1830 to cater to industtial, commercialand residential ers of means(who could afford the downtown businessmen,journalists and neighborhoods,which werestrongly eight- to twelve-and-a-halfcentfare) to other professionals.From thesemodest segmentedby socialclass. live uptown and work downtown. Steam beginningsemerged the pinnacleof r)fith the growth and stratificationof femiesand sueet railroads(pulied by New York and Americanfine dining. the city, a new urban 6gure wasborn: horsesbelow 27th street)followed close Delm ,\tr. frequentednew retail groceriesand meat by its fine French food, subdued atmos- .,r\t:' Ci.pdy R-LobeI is.an Assiswnt Professoraf I{istory at.Lehman shopsin their own neighborhoods. phereand excellentservice, the short- College, Sbeis currmtly Theseprivate food shopscame to replace order houseswere known for their fren- : cowpletlng a booh The Appetite the retail functionsof the public market zied pace,barebones atmosphere, network, which had directly provisioned disinterestedwaiters and substandard New Yorkers with fresh food since the food. According to variousobservers' poge eighl accounts,the noiselevel wasdeafening, ments.They includedshort-order houses ing subsectorrhat cateredto the diverse "amazing thanks to the clatter" of knives that continuedto servebusinessmen's population of the city and immigrant "bawled and forks and the wairers who lunches,as well asEnglish chophouses, pocketsthroughout the United Srates. out in a loud voice,to give noriceof oystercellars, first-class restaurants like For example,as New York becamerhe what farewas wanted." The pace Delmonico's,restaurants designed par- centerof AmericanJewishlife, its man- "extraordinary involvedan bustle," with ticularly to arrracrthe ladies'trade, fam- ufacturersfounded the matzoh business "evefy one ... earingas fast ashe could." ily restaurantsthat serveda tabled'hote in the United States.As earlyas 1819, Patronsswallowed their food "with a or prix fixe menu to middle-classindi- nine New YorkJewish bakerieswere stfange,savage earnestness, and in : preparing matzoh for Passoverand ship- silence."One visitor describedthe rapid ping it to Jewish communitiesaround "\7e turnover: were nor in the house Ethnicfood shops ond the country. Matzoh-making becamea abovetwenty minutes, but we satout restourantsserved multiple corporateconcern when Hungarian-born two setsof companyat least."4 purposesin thelives of individuol JacobHorowirz foundedHorowitz The food at the short-order resrau- Brothersand Margareten immigronts, in 1883. Com- rants was secondaryto other factors- theethnic petitors suchas Strumpf soonfollowed. speed,convenience and cheapness.In neighborhoodond the lorger ciiy. Mosr immigranrfood businesses, fact, the cuisinewas universallyderided. Totheir proprietors they offered though, wereconsiderably more local. GeorgeFoster found the "disgusting commerciolopportun ities, Engagingin what today we would call massesof stringy meat and tepid vegeta- smali-batchproducrion, immigrant bies" inedible and Harper'sVeeAly providingon entrepreneuriol women turned part of their kirchens describeda short-ordersteak as a "black, wedgeinto the economy of into tiny factoriescreating domestic ver- elasticsubstance," and the accompany- New York.... As fortheir cus- sionsof imported foodslike pasta.In ing pocatoes "a as specieofvegetable I somecases, immigrant women tomers,ethnic operated putty.5" But rheserestauranrs offered an groceriesond rudimentary careringservices in their important serviceto New Yorkerson the restouronts offered provisions homes,selling meals,baked goods and go. For sixpence,one could get a hearty ond o tosteof home,ond cotered other specialtiesfrom their tenement if not entirely appetizing kitchens.8 meal, eat it to theiremotionol, sociol snd quickly and rerurn to work in lessthan a ' Someimmigrant entrepreneurstook half an hour. economtcneeds. theseactivities a srepfarther, opening For many downtown workers,eating restaurants,cafes and orher food busi- out becamea dally occurrence.In 1849, nessesin their neighborhoods.In the lawyer GeorgeTempleton Strong wist- vidualsand familiesseeking to dine out secondhalf of the 19rh cenrury,immi- fully recalled rhe "fashion of former and a growing number of ethnic restau- grant-ownedfood businesseswere linch- times," when one returnedhome to rants thar cateredboth to foreign- and pins in the ciry'smany erhnic neighbor- dine. Strongcomplained of "rhis ruinous native-bornNew Yorkers. hoods.At midcentury,German businessof lunching ar Brown'sand din- In fact, this last group - New York's immigrants dominatedmany of New ing at Delmonico'sand trespassingon ethnic restau.rants,along with immi- York'sfood tradesincluding burchering, my viscerain all sortsof ways."By rhe grant food shopsand other food-related dairying, groceries and bakeries.Klein- 'lribune 1860s,the esrimatedrhar one- businesses- playeda role both in shap- deuxcbland,or Litrle Germany, located quarterof the 800 parronsat one ing and reflectingthe city's growing on the EastSide between Housron and Chatham Street eating housewere "reg- cosmopolitanismin rhe secondhalf of 14th Smeers,housed a high concentra- ular customets."6 the 19th century.From its founding as tion offood businesses,including, on Thesekinds of restaurantsbecame New Amsterdamin the lTrh cenrury, someof its mosr crowdedblocks, a bak- important fearuresof 19th-centuryNew New York had alwaysdistinguished ery in everythird cellar.Likewise, in the York. GeorgeFoster went so far as ro itself asa polyglot city. But New York's 1890s,theJewish Lower EastSide alone credicrhe earinghouses with "that con- diversity would explodein the 19th cen- had hundredsoffood businessescatering tinuous rush of commercialactivity tury asimmigrants floodedto Manhat- to local customers,including 140 aroundher great businesscentres." And tan from all over Europe and parts of groceries,131 kosherburchers, 36 New York memoirist Abram Dayton Asia. At rhe beginning of rhe 19th cen- bakeriesand 10 delicatessens.Immi- opined:"Eating-houses ... . may be tury about 10 percent of New Yorkers grant groceriesand food shopsoffered alluded to collectiveiyas one ofthe step- were born outsideof cheUnited States. local produce and goods, as well as foods ping-stones,which croppedout as,by By contrast,by the 1890s,about 80 per- from home like German brown bread degrees,primitive Gotham gaveway ro centof rhe ciry'spopulation was com- and sausages,Italian macaroniand metropolitanNew York."7 posedof immigrants and their children. bolognaand Chineseteas, herbs and \fhile most of the earliestresraurants Immigrants contributedto the food shark'sfin soup., cateredto commuters,it did nor take culture of New York in a variety of ways Someimmigrant food businesseswere long for entrepreneursto seeother mar- including food production,marketing considerablymore mobile than rhe brick- kets for New York resrauranrs.By the and sales,as well asdiversi$ring the and-moftargroceries, bakeries and deli- late 19th century,Gotham housedthou- restaurantofferings of Gotham. Immi- catessensaround the city. Thanks to sands of free-standingeating establish- grant groups also createda manufactur- continued on poge fifteen poge nrne LUNCH: 3 TheNewYork Public Library looks back on the city's middavmeals By Irene Sax LuNcH rs FAsr;,lr's cHrel; rr's OFTEN PORTABLEAND USUALLYEATEN AROUND NooN. I thought that said it all until I visited "Lunch Hour NYC," the fascinat- ing and deepty informative exhibit at the Theenby halt rhat greets visitors to "LunchHour NYC," the New York Public Library's examination ofthl hi*l lllhl-Tld.llT.tlJ^is,lousedat the Theshow was curaied by CHNY member Laura Shapiro and Rebecca Federman-, culinary.collection_s libraian, and StephenA. SchwartzmanBuilding - the 17,20,|3. iili.r'{ St pft.ne. SchwartzmanBuitding (the 42nd Street branch). The free exhibit will run through FEbruiry 42.rd Stt..t branch - of the New York Public Library. merceto turn what was a traditional mid- But for me, the most intiiguing Part day dinner into a brisk half-hourfeed. of the show wasa computer icreen near And smart in its awarenessthat this if,. aoor. The library is in the process'of' diversecity enjoysnot only quick lunches digitizing its roughly 45,OO0testaurant from carts,cafeterias, pizzetias and delis, menus,and wants us to help. AII it takes but charity lunches(school meals began in is a home comPuterand asmuch time as Hell's Kitchen in 1908),power lunches you feel like giving. Start by calling up qft from the Algonquin to the Four Seasons menus.nypl.org.Then follow the ,!u6F historic ' Iht*!i* and salad-and-cottagecheese lunches for instructions to acCissone of the tNs.s{$1!:{N in the Efrqffi = obeying a magazioearticle head- menus.Click on a dish, and cype (dd women l'4! you see.It's l:, lined, "Nice PeopleDon't Eat." name and ih€ price that ls}\Sille although you twN n! sd !.:!aN It's lively with things to look at - from easy.Itrs almost mindless, l,$!$lN ms{ a wall ofcartoon-bright lunchboxesto a may be surprised,for example, that in .,'Nk{!s\ *e*N$ addictive, {Qd!N reconstructedAutomat wall - and to 18i8 caviaicost 406. It's also .&s and lM$$.i U ka${a laugh at, suchas ThePizza Principle, in the way of crosswordPuzzles s.$s lllN\:i:::\ R*Nd\$ which claimsthat since1960 the cost of a Sudoku. But who cares?You're helping $H.n $N\ one 4A( serving aN sliceand a subwayride havebeen nearly to adnancescholarship, the same,or the derivationof "hot dog" of caviarat a time. EM&cN from "hot" for popular and "dog" for the I left the show after an hour, stimu- animals that urban legend said were lated, refreshedand thinking about - ground up in them. what else?* lunch. tS ,|899' Themenu hom the famed Delmonico's, Curated by culinary historian and CHNY member Laura ShaPiroand RebeccaFederman, NYPLs culinary-col- lectionslibrarian, the free show runs = until FebruaryI7,2013, and I hoPeit will travel after that, becauseit's just too smart and too lively to disaPPear. Smart in its assertionthat lunch is the = ultimate New York meal, one that used the city's obsessionwith speedand com- Arter manyyears of writiagabout food in Neu YorhnewlpaPers,lmrr Sdr teaches'Food \Vitlng!' at .|919' New Yorh IJniuersttll A groupof boyseating at P.S.lo' Photoby Jessie Tarbox Beals. Silver gelatin prinl' poge ten = € E = A hotdog stand at WestStreet and l{orlh Moore, Manhathn. Photo ' by BereniceAbbofr. Gelatin silver,$int, 1936;, A lunchvenue with a delicounter. Silver gelatin print, 1942. E = * = = = Anautomat on Eighb Awnue, Manhathn. Photo by BereniceAbbofthken at 977Eighth Aven0e. Gelalir silvEr print, i936. Themenu from Haim's Quick-Lunch Reshurant. 1906. = A clampeddler on MulberryBend. Reproduction of i ca. lg04photograph: Prohibition in the liquor centef ofAmerica conrinuedfrom pose one \(ith strong support from upstate illegal speakeasy,which was usually Amendment had given concurrent lawmakers,the New York State Legisla- locatedin dark and poorly ventilated enforcementpower to the federal and ture had tried to restrict drinking. In basementsor back rooms.Customers stategovernments, but the federalgov- 1896, it passedthe RainesLaw, which achievedadmittance only after proper ernment hired only 1,500 enforcement bannedthe saleofliquor on Sunday.The scrutiny by guardsposted at the doors agentsnationally, and ofthese, only 12) law did have a loophole - alcohol could with peepholes.Speakeasies catered were assignedto New Yclrk City.7 Local be sold with a meal in a hotel with more mainly to the middle class.The liquor and state law enforcementofficials were than 10 rooms.Within months, hun- servedat speakeasiescost more than not alwayssupportive of Prohibition, dredsof "Raines"hotels were in opera- before,and it was notoriously bad.t and many agencieslacked the trained tion. Other drinking establishmentsalso Prior to Prohibition, saloons,bars manpower to enforceit or to deal with openedon Sundayand the authorities and other drinking establishments the organizedcrime culture that emerged. usuallyignored them, provided they servedbeverages purchased from com- New York law enforcementofficials werecircumspect. A surveyof Manhat- mercialbreweries, distilleries and vint- wereparticularly lax in carrying out the tan and Bronx saloonsin provisions of the Volstead 1908 found that 1,000 of Act. To support the federal York State the 5,820 legal saloonsille- agents,the New gally servedalcohol on Sun- Legislature passedthe April day.rThis shouldhave given Mullan-GageAct on prohibition advocatessome 5,1921, which madeviola- Act advancewarning of prob- = tions of the Volstead law. lems to come,but little alsoviolations ofstate attention waspaid to It required state and local police to enforcethe federal enforcementissues. E The Anti-Saloon League, law. According to Samuel the main nationallobbying Hopkins Adams,a writer = "Restaurants, group for prohibition, con- for Col lier's, private houses,blind sideredNew '1ork City to = be the "liquor centerof tigers,and the hip pocket America." It frequently of the casualwayfarer were cited statisticsthat every raidedwith a disconcerting week New Yorkerscon- impartialiry.A baby carriage, sumed75,000 quarts of gin, even, was held up and a bottle 76,000 quarts of brandy, found to harbor 100,000 quarts of Cham- which did not contain NewYork City Depu$ Police Gommissioner John A. Leachwatches as agentspour liquor into the milk." During the first two pagneand wine,498,000 (Photocirca .|92{). sewer,the results of a raidduring Prohibition' went quarts of whiskey,33 mil- months after the law lion quarts of domesticbeer and ale, nerswhose practices were regulatedby inro effect. 4.000 New Yorkers were the law; howevet' and 300,000 quarts ofassortedother the federalFood and Drug Administra-' atrestedfor violating alcoholicbeverages.a As the city had tion and similar stateand local agencies. fewer than 500 were indicted and only jail oriy 4.7 million tesidents,it was clear The alcoholserved in speakeasies,how- six werecclnvicted and none received that New Yorkers were selling and con- ever,was usually made by amateurs;it rerms.sThe failure of the Mullan-Gage suming a greatdeal of alcohol. occasionallycontained poisons and usu- Act encouragedthe riseofspeakeasies. \7hen Prohibition went into effect, ally tastedterrible. Imported alcohol By 1922, therewere an estimated5,000 alcoholconsumption sharply decreased. was available,but only at extremely speakeasiesin New York City alone. of Saloonsdisappeared for good. Public high prices,and a lot of what wassold \7hen Al Smith, an ardent opponent drunkennesssharply declined, and hospi- asimports wasactually domestic boot* Prohibition, becamegovernor in 1923, tals dealt with many fewermedical prob- leg liquor pouredinto fancybottles with the bill was repealed.From that time lemsassociated with the consumptionof fake labels.Customers never knew where on, city police generallydeclined to alcohol. Yet New Yorkers still could their drinks camefrom or what theY arrestanyone, provided liquor distribu- acquirealcohol throughout Prohibition. contained.In one yearalone, the deaths tors and drinkersdid not flaunt their The main alcoholdismibutor became the of 625 New Yorkerswere directly activities. attributableto ingestingpoisoned \Tealthier New Yorkers never felt Act was intendedfor Andret, F Smith teachesculinary alcoholand another1,295 died from that the Volstead anyway,and members of the upper and beaeragehktory at the New SchooL alcohol-relatedcauses.6 them not havea problem securing He is the aatbor or editor of23 boohs, The major flaw in Prohibition was classdid they wanted i n clx.din g Dm:&ng H istory, enforcement.Only $4.75 million was whatever beverages allocatedfor Prohibition enforcement throughout Prohibition. Over time, the scbedulzd for pub lication by Columbia alsogained access to Ilniuercity Prcssin thefall by the federalgovernment. The 18th urban middle class , r... - ..i:lli:i,' ,, poge twelve alcohol through speakeasiesand other into power with large majoritiesin both channels.It was only the working class housesof Congress.President Franklin that sufferedthe mosr during Prohibi- Despitegrowing opposition D. Roosevelt,formedy rhe governor of tion. Their main drink wasinexpensive New York, pledgedto ger the economy beerand it wasalmost unobtainable to the VolsteodAct, the moving again. during Prohibition; it was too difficult At the time, federal cofferswere widespreodtv disreqord for iis to brew, transporr and sell. Distilled empty. With almost provisions ' 25 percent of rhe spirits were more readily available in , ond the ossoctoteo American workforce unemployed, mostcities, and the businesswas more violentcrime onc' r corrupflon, income tax revenuewas down. Roosevelt lucrative,but thesealcoholic beverages and his the I BthAmendmenf alliespresenced repeal as a weremuch more costly than pre-Prohi- meansof generating revenue.Reinstating bition prices and unaffordablefor the mighfnot hsve been repeoled the excisetax on the saleof liquor was working class. hod it notbeen for the thus one argumenrfor ending Prohibi- By contrast,demand for distilled tion. Others argued that repealwould liquor washigh among the middle class, GreotDepression. re-launchindustries that had once and productionwenr into high gearas employedhundreds ofrhousands of tensofthousands ofillegal stills began Americans.Still othersbelieved that manufacturinghard liquor for anyone increasedthe penaltiesfor violating the repealwould help put an end to the who wantedit. Small distributors fre- VolsteadAct. The firsr conviction was burgeoningcrime generatedby rhe ille- quently expandedtheir production to now deemeda felony,and increasedthe gal production and saleof alcohol.On supply the needsof nearbycities.e This maximumpenalry ro fiveyears impris- February20,1933, the U.S.Congress is when organizedcrime steppedin to onmenr and a fine of $10,000. Even proposedand approvedthe 2lst Amend- centraiizethe manufacture,distribution with harshprovisions, enforcement did ment to the Constitution, which and remil saleof liquor. \(ealth and not work. It was estimaredin 1930 that repealedProhibition. The amendment powerflowed to the crime syndicates. alcoholconsumption in America was wasratified by the last ofthe required As federalagenrs were paid $ 1,800 per about the sameas beforeProhibition. In number of stateson December5 , I9j3. year,and New York policemen even less, 193 7, the \TichershamCommi ssion The "noble experiment,"as ir was called, they could make a small fortune by told Congressthat enforcementhad was over. Throughout the country, acceptingbribes, and many did. Liquor broken down. countlesstoasts were raisedto reoeal. manufacturersand distributors also The JonesAct alienaredmany judges *** bribed and other city leadersand ptominent Americans,and opposition r(l rHarry corruptionwas fampant. to Prohibition srrengrhenedeven fur- Golden, Tbe Right Time: an Autobirtgraphy Newspapers,magazines, radio pro- ther. In 1929 PauLine (Putnam, 1969),125. Sabin, a wealrhy 2 grams Luc Sante, Low Life: Lures and Sures of 1lcl Nw and newsreelsin movie theaters and politically well-connectedNew kept York (Ftra\ Strausand Girou, 1991), 105. Americansabreast of the latest mur- York socialitewho occasionallyoffered ders,violence, arrests and corruption 'Michael A. Lerner, Dry hlanhattan; Probibition in and drank cocktails,formed the Neu, Y'rh City (Harvad flniversity Press, 2007), 25. associatedwith illegal alcohol. Prohibi- a N7omen'sOrganizacion for National Ernest Hurst Cherringron, comp.,'f lx Anti- tion lost supporr nationally,especially Prohibition Reform. In lessthan a year, saloon l*ague Ymr Borik: an Encyclopalia o-fFact: and Fig- amongAmerica's elite. Industrialists who it had more than 100,000 members;by nes Duling tuitl: the Liqnor Traffic and the Tonperance had oncesupporred Prohibition now 1931,its membershipreached Reforn (the League. IgIj), I 7{. 300,000; t opposed Samuel Hopkins Adams, "On Sale Everywhere," it, asdid many political leaders. by Novembet 1932, it was more rhan Collier\ 16, 1921,8; Courtenay C. Weeks, In 1929 the New York City police 1.1million.l3 July "Alcoholism and Prohibition commissioneresrimared that the city in New York, The Britisb Despitegrowing oppositionto the hledical aurnal 1 1, 1936, 100. had 32,000 speakeasies,twice the num- J July VolsteadAct, rhe widespreaddisregard 'Leflter. zot/. ber of legal and illegal establishments for its provisionsand the associated 'Letner, 65. that servedalcohol prior to Prohibition.Il violent crime and corruption, the 18th 8Adams. 23. Otherssaid that the commissioner'sesri- Amendment might not havebeen 'David n7. \faurer, Ker*rch1 Moonshine(UniversittJ matewas actually way too low - that Pressof Kenrucky, 2003), B5. repealedhad it not been for the Great r0 Richard Hooker, ,4 History of Food and Drink therewere at leasr100,000 speakeasies Depression. J. Republicanshad srongly in Anrica ( in the city. Mabel Villebrandt, the Bobbs-Merrill, 1.)81),342., Edward Behr. associatedthemselves with Prohibition. Probibition: Thirten Yurs That Changed Amrica U.S.assistant atrorney general responsi- while many Democrars,especially those (Arcade Pub., 1996),87 , 147. ble for prosecutingviolations ofthe who werelrish, Italian,Jewish, Catholic 'r Anclrew Srnclair, Eu af Enas: A Social Histotl of Volstead Act, commenredon the law- and German, strongly opposedit. \fhen tbe Prahibition Altpenent (Htper & Row, 1954), 230. "Ir t'? lessnessin New York's speakeasies: the stock market crashedin 1929 and John Kobler, ,4 rdent Sltirits: Tbe Riseand Fall of Prohibition (Da Capo Press, 1991), cannottfuthfully be said that prohibi- the economicsysrem collapsed, the 224; Edward Behr, tion enforcementhas failed in New York. Prabibition: Thi*an Yurs That Changu! Anurica Republicans,who had controlledCongress (Arcade It hasnot yer beenatternpted."t2 Pub., 1996),87 Mabel \{/alker \flillebrmdt, since1919 and the presidencysince 'f be In:itle of Prohibition (The Bobbs-tr{errill As enforcement Compmy, efforts failed across l92l,were blamed.In November1932, 1929).r70. the nation,Congress stepped in and President Herbert Hoover lost his ':tDavid E. Kyvig, "Women Againsr Prohibition, passedtheJones Acr, which greatly reelection bid and the Democrats swepr Amrican Qaart*ly Autumn 1976, 465-4it2. {5 Poge continuedfrom pose three To market, to market: A profile of Thomas F. DeVoe odd experienceswith the huntable or irre- elclerlyMary Simpson(said to havebeen ;;.;; :;;;;;;,,,"e,hing (e.g.,an Arctic travelertrying to slaveof George\X/ashington's) eatable ulaceableto the Whitmanesquedemoc- a freed market-butchers'leavings to eat whale sinews)' iacy of New York streeclife' something getting cats Becausethe contentsare well indexed imimted bY the feed both people and abandoned not to be evenfeeblY with boldfaceheadings' other suchdisasters. He told of and provided recailshopkeepers whom they sawstart- during riskedin the book is a little easierto find one's the perishable-food the ferry mishapsthat sellers ing to encroachon in than its predecessor'B-ut getting to and from market;the turf way around trades.For DeVoe and his fellows,these just to fol- the it'sprobably most rewarding with their "meat-shops"and other warsbetween stall-holders; people lowthe flow of DeVoe'sunedited fancy' thr€at impromptu dancecontests that slaves non-marketoutlets representeda a reader and Long Island used He had the knack of making fabric of the citY. from New Jersey to the want to go looking for adventurevia institution, to get up at the CatharineMarket; the Of his two tributes to the caredpassion- lossof a customerone shoppingbasket, and he Market l3ookprobably is the more luckily temporary The arely(not ro sayindignantly) about any- reading.DeVoe's method asa labotious thing that frustratedthe pursuit ofhap- was to go to the Historicai historian pinessat market.Turning over che coverliterally thousandsof Society, householdmarketing to servant-cool poge fourteen and in someyears in grearplenty." Foodways and metropoliran growth in lgth-century New York He describedeggs in oatmealpacking conlinuedfrom poge nine being shipped to New York "by thou- sandsof barrels,containing almosta .E As for their cus- thousandin each,"from rhe Midwest. He f tomers,ethnic gro- pointed out how the growth of the ciry S ceriesand restauranrs had pushed the suppliers ofonce-cheap !' offered provisions produceout into the hinterlands,"which : and a tasteof home, increasedthe distancesfrom the general .! and cateredto their marts,whilst grearerfacilities to bring ? emotional,social and theseproducts of the earrh to market .{ economicneeds. For becameparamount" and droveup prices. ] example,China- He even threw in a couple of recipes- E town's groceriesand one for fish chowder (the classiclayered Little Italy's cafes kind with potatoesand pilot crackers) servedas assimilation and anotherfor aJerseyDutch dish called points for new "rolliches"or "rollet;'es,"consisting of arfivals, post offices, squarepieces ofbeeftripe rolled jelly-roll information centers style aroundstrips ofsirloin, poached, and banks(loaning and preservedin a vinegaredbroth. WashingtonMarket, Ne$. York - Thanksgivingtime. Wood engraving, circa 1E72. money to immigrants DeVoe might havegone on to write immigrant peddlers,pushcarts - which who couldn't boruow other booksabout American food in had offeredfoodstuffs and other consurner from American banks).Immigrant food generaland meat in particular. But at least items to New Yorkerssince the 17th businessesalso acted as regionalaid soci- two works on which he had compiled more century - becameparticular symbolsof eties,each grocery represenring a partic- than enough notesfor books(Volume II of immigrant life in the late 19th cenrury. ular county or region of the home coun- TheMarket Book and a history of livestock Huge pushcartmarkets formed in immi- try and servingthe needsof immigrants breedsin America) were sidetrackedby grant neighborhoodslike Hell's Kitchen from that region.12 otherpriorities. After 1870 he gaveup his and the Lower EasrSide. Colorful, Ethnic offeringsalso changed the butchering business(perhaps because new vibrant and cheap,pushcarcs and peddlers characterof New York's restauranrsec- Board of Health zoning restrictionshad ensuredthat New York's Lower EastSide tor, creatinga diversedining culture closeddown his slaughrerhousear Sixrh could provide its residenrswith the that set New York apart and still charac- "Every Avenueand 19th Street)and agreedto cheapestgroceries in the city and even terizesthe city today. narionality serveas Superintendent of Markets(1871 the country.And they offeredfoods from that helpsto make up the cosmopolitan - 1816) under a comproller who shared home both to newly arrived and long-ser- characterof New York has its own eat- his view that the city had done a very bad tled immigrants and ethnic New Yorkers. ing and drinking places,"a New York job of regulating them. He resumedthe Itinerant immigrant vendorsalso traveled City guidebookremarked in 1890. They sameposition (combined with that of chief door-to-doorin ethnic enclaves,offering included severalChinese restaurants, "Hebrew collectorofrevenues) in 1881 and left it in specializedservices ro rheir neighbors. numerous restaurants... on "several 1884,when he was73 and apparentlynor The Arauthobler,for example,visited the the EastSide," along with Russ- in the best ofhealth. After that he turned homesof Kleindeutschland,shaving cab- ian restauranrs,"some Polish, Spanish "one his energiesto a genealogyofthe diversely bagefor the German housewiveswho and Italian offeringsand even "De "i3 spelied Veaux" family and busied turned it into sauerkraut.lo cheapJapanese restaurant. At first, himselfat the New-York Historical Society, Ethnic food shopsand restaurants ethnic restaurantscatered mainly to the of which he was now a pillar. servedmultiple purposesin the lives of immediatepopulation in immigrant At his death in 1892, the New-York individual immigrants, the ethnic neighborhoods.With someexceprions, "foreign" Daily Tribune,describing him as "essen- neighborhood and the larger city. To restauranrswere srill too tially a Ninth \Tarder of the old Ameri- their proprietors they offered commer- exotic in the late 1lth century and cantype," prescientlyremarked that the cial opportunities,providing an enrre- native-borndiners too culturally arro- "the library of researchmaterial he had col- preneurialwedge into the economyof gant to cfoss boundariesoftaste," lected(now at rhe Historical Society) New York. For cerrainimmigrant shop ashistorian Donna Gabbacciapurs it, to "will be a valuablegold mine for the owners,these businesses were some of truly opening their palatesto foreign future historian."This would alsoprove the only entrepreneurialoptions avail- foodsand preparations.14 to be true of the two market books. They able.For example,Chinese immigrants, Nonetheless,New York's restaurant distill a lifetime'sexperience of people, who began to settle in New York in culture was undeniably ethnicized in the food and New York into remarkably use- small numbersin the 1860s,found most secondhalf of the lpth century,albeit in ful and compact form, and they are the job categoriesclosed to them as a result a hybridized fashion.As historian nextbest thing to walking inro Stall No. of disciminatory hiring policies. Andrew Haley describesit, late lpth- "colonized" 8 at the JeffersonMarket and being Among the few exceptionswere laun- centurymiddle-class diners treatedby a top-hatted butcher to a les- dries,restaurants and groceriesJl the foreign restaurantand foreign cuisine, sonin the gentle arr ofear-bending.i) continued on next poge s poge fifteen evrousPoge offood placedit at demandingand receivinghybtid dishes bringing "meatsraw and cured,cured tion and distribution gastronomic that were modified for native-born tastes. fish,poultry and game,vegetables and the centerof the country's holds to this day. Describinguptown ltalian restauranrsin fruit, both nativeand imported" to be culture, a position it **+ 1885, the Neu Yrtrk"finzes temarked: "It is sold at the market and neighboring rGeorge Foster, New York in Slicu; hy an Experimnd a curious fact that, as the quality of the wholesalers'warehouses. \Tholesale food Cama'. being tbe }riginal Slices Puhlishul in the Nru York improves,the national concernsconcentrated elsewhere along guestsand food hihme(Vr.F. Burgess, 1849)' 67. the Italian cook lower Manhattan'swaterfront. For exam- public dishesdisappear, and 'The decline of the retail functions of the York's famous showsa strongerinclination to a hybrid ple, by the 1880s,New markets and the rise of private, retail food shops was cuisine than to the unadulteratedand oystertrade was conducted north of rosociaredwith much stronger connectiot)samong savorydishes of his mother iand." Thus, WashingtonMarket, where30 oyster class, geography and quality offood supply thm in the eady national and Colonial periods. As Nerv Yorkers someof the most populady frequented bargesparked permanently and received relied on local shops rather than regulated public mar- Age Gotham had thousandsof bushelsof oystersdaily. restaurantsin Gilded kets for their provisions, they fbund significant differ- Meanwhile,Fulton Market on Manhat- foreign namesand proprietors and served ences in terms of the quality of the shops and the food handledthe bulk of the Americanizedversions of German, tan'sEast Side sold therein. ln general, grocers and fbod retailers in processingand French,Hungarian and Italian cuisine. city's wholesalefish rade, rvealthier neighborhoods offered higher-qualir.v fbod in well as settings than the tenement grocers whose Theserestaurants offered atable d'hote selling fish from local waters,as more sanitary and the main trade came from liquor sales and who sold notori- format - a mulcicoursemenu at a fixed from up and down the East Coast Lakes.17 ouly substandad food. thirty centsand Great jOn price of between $1.25 tbe Parisian r€staunn!, see Rebecca Spang, ($7 New York's food processorsand in the 1880s to $30 in today's Tbe Inuntion of the Rettatrant: Pais ancl Modnt Gastrc wholesalersalso convergedaround \[ash- money). The number of foreign tables nonic Cilture (}J.anrd tlniversity Press, 2000). ington Market. Austin, Nichols, & Co., d'hote restaurantsgrew from about five a "Of Dinners and Dining Places," Haryer\ \Vekl1 one ofthe most successful,operated out establishmentsin the 1860sto morethan Magazine(7 Much 1857), I47,"Culinary Reform," purpose-builtbuilding on two dozenin the 1880s.Among the ofa l0-story lllmphis Daily Appr-al, 18 November 1865; Captail andJayStreets from 1879 for- Traaelsin Nonb America in the Ysrs 1827 best-known were Morello's, Martinelli's, Hudson Bruil Hall, ward. Its main competitor,Frances H. and 1828 (Edinbugh: Caclelland Co , 18'29),)2-4. Donovan's,Jacque's, Marinetti's and Leggett & Co., had a similar operationon See also: "Our Restaurants," Neu-\'orh'ftibme 6 Jlu1y Moretti's,"whose $1 tabled'hote According to one 186n,3. "wine capitalmacaroni."It neatbyMurray Street. inciuded and tFoster, Yorhin S|ica,67;"OlDinners and journalists account,Austin, Nichols' building was -N'oz, Then asnow, and New Hagter\,|47', "CulinaryReform," "one of the busiestsites in the commer- Dining Places," York boostersbragged that Manhattan- Mmphis Daity Appeal;"Hmanizing Influenceof the cial metropolis."In addition to carrying ites did not needto travel to foreign CentralPark," N*- \'orkHrald,2 October1859, 4. "the fullest line offancy and staple countriesto experiencethe exotic and AbramDayton makes a similr msessmentof the short- assugars, oils, coffees,teas, foreign. Rather,it wasa walk or ele- goods,"such orderhouses in lzst DaTsof KnicherhocLerLife in Nm' and spices,these vacedtrain ride away."\Tithout leaving olives,extracts, syrups Yorb(G.P. Putnam's Sons, 1897), 121. large gtocer wholesalersalso processed r'Allan Nevins, ed.,'f heDiary af George'[enpleton the city," noted journalistL. J. Vance, under their own pri- (NewYork: MacmillanCompany, 1952) Vol. 1: the Manhattanitecould "breakfastin and wholesaledfood Snzrug, like 364; "TheEating-S'aloonsof New-York," Netu-Yuk London, lunch in Berlin, dine in Paris vate label. N7holesaleconcerns lower \7est Tribune,1.0 November 1866, 2. and sup in Venna." In Gotham, one Austin, Nichols madethe TFoster,70-1 ; DaYton,i20-121. "could four times a day Side(today's Tribeca) a producedistrict. dine differently sDonnaGabaccia, \1{/e Arc Vhat'Ve Eat: Ethnit Foad Many of the buildings that housedtl, em for a week, and haveeach rePast com- and theAlaking of Americans(Harvard University Press, still exist today,their factoryand process- posedoffoteign dishes,served by for- 2000), 63, 70; Robert Erost,Immigrant Life in Nau York convertedinto luxury loft eign waiters,and eat with foreign-born ing floors Ciry, 1825-186.3(1949. Reprint,IraJ. Friedman,Inc men and women ashis convives."tt' apartments,restaurants and boutiques. l96t), tt8. century then, eGabaccia, New York'scosmopoiitanism tran- By the end ofthe llth 64; JaneZtegelman, 97 Onhard:An scendedits restaurantoffetings. And it New York's food culture reflected and Edibl e H i snry of F iu I nfu grant Fan i I i esin One Tenerwnt went beyondits diversepopulation and refractedmany ofthe changesthat city (Hmper,2011), 28. ro 74; Zrep;elmary25. immigrants' considerablecontributions had gone through in the act of becoming Gabaccia, trTyler Anbinder,Fiu Points:The 19th-Century to its culinary culture. As it grew into a the nation'smetropolis. The foodwaysof Nru York City Neigbborhoodthat Inuntul Tap Dance, metropolis,New Ycrrkbecame the dis- New York highlighted the growth of the SroleEhctions, and Becamzthe Vorldls Most Natorims Slun city from a small seaportto an interna- tribution and wholesalefood centerfor (TheFree Press, 2001), 4()0-4(14', Vong Chin Foo, tional nexus,arguably the most cosmo- the nation and parts of the world. By the "The Chinesein New York," 'f heCosmopolitan 5:4 city in the world. From small mid-1 9th century,Washington Market politan gune 1888),300-303. York on Manhattan's lower \7est Side served beginningsin the early 1800s,New 12OnChinese groceries see Foo, 100-303. asthe city's centralwholesale market, had becomethe empire of gastronomy by rjMosesKing, KngS Handhookof Ner YorkCitl: 'fbe gathering food from the four cornersof the 1890s.New York gathered,processed An OntlineHistory and Daoiption ttf American (Moses the globe and distributing it throughout and sold more foodstuffs and had more Metrrltoli King, 1892),213,214-15; "Our Restauants Nat-York Tribnre,6 1868' 1: the United Statesand abroad.Hundreds restaurantsand a greater diversity of ," July ofships and rail carsunloaded their them than any other place in the country. s cargoon the docksnear the market, The city's centralposition in the produc- continued on poge eighteen poge sixteen PUBLISHED ..:::,lll,i Booxs sv CHNY MEMBERS,puBLlsHED IN 2or2 KIEO (Brlmming uith Hope): F+ll's 0.1,il1 tLt [!tl],ap.r Recipesdr Storiesfrom Tbbohu PeebingBehind the \Yallpaper: Japan's fir !s. r kkra rN Ni drr (TenSpeed Press) by ElizabethAndoh, is '* ZbeLife of a Chef 40 Yearsof Kitcben an e-original that is the author'sculi- Lore and Quirfui Storiesfrom nary tribute to the Tohoku,rhe region ThreeContinents,by Arno Schmidt, devastatedby earthquake,rsunami and is a memoir of the author'slife asa nuclearaccidenr in 2010. Tokvo-based chef.A profile ofthe book and irs Andoh definesKIBO ashooe fused author appeafson page r@di!,@qrH,!r:k t*t 6. with determinarionand sayirhe goal of iir,4ftefud n"l^rkt_r*h her book is to celebrate,preserve and sharewith the world the food culture of the region. A portion of the proceedswill be donated to Japan's recoveryeffort. Childhood Pleasures:Dutch Children in the SeaenteenthCentunt (SyracuseUniversity Press) by PeterG. Roseand Donna R. Mamtaladc: Sweetand SauorySpreads Barnesexamines 17th-century Netherlands. The enormous for a SophisticatedTaste, (Running Press) legacyof tl-risperiod of the Dutch byElizabethField. A compendiumof republic,which artists,writers and recipesfor homemademarmalades, as poetscelebrated as its Golden Age, has well as recipesfor dishesthat include enrichedall our lives.As historians marmaladeas an ingredient,and for searchfor a fuller understandingofits various breadsthat go well with mar- unique character,they continually malade.Field notesthar the book represents10 yearsof return to the central role of the family. researchin the U.S. and Britain, and it formed the basisof her Children arean essenrialoart ofthe dissertationfor a master'sdegree in gastronomyfrom the story: how rhey wereraisid and University of Adelaidein Ausmalia. taught, how they played and what they ate and drank offer fundamental insights.Through words and (almost 60) images, TheHamptons and Long Island we learn that while somepleasures en;'oyed by Dutch youngsters400 HomegroumCoo hb oo h (YoyaeeurPress) yearsago have changed,some have remained the byLeeannLavin tells the good-food sameand are sourcesof fun and excitemenr for children today. A recipe storiesof farmerswho rise beforethe chapterprovides inspiration for adulr/child cooking projects, roostersto bring freshproduce, meats, preparinga tasteofthe past. and cheeses,honey and seafoodro these local chefs and areafarmers' markets. Sheprofiles 27 pasture-to-platechefs Fast Food andJunh Food: who kick off the day with an early trip An Encychpedia of the Faod WbLoue to the markets and local growersand to Eat (Gr eenwood/ABC-CLIO) wrap it up in the wee hours of the night, after feeding apprecia- byAndrewF. Smith.In the last half tive diners. The food storiesare lovingly told, exploring the century, junk food and fast food have work and passionof the chefsand the lmal food artisani, farmers come to play an important role in and fishermanwho together are dedicatedro connecting to the American economic,historical, cul- land to producemenus thar boastdeiicious homegro*n flavors. tural and sociallife. Today,they have The book offersa rare and intimate tour of rhe kitchens and a majot influence on what Americans gardenscreare local, seasonalfood. The book is organizedby eat - and how healthy we are(or region andpresenrs more thao 80 deliciousrecipes and srunning aren't). FastFood andJunh Food photographs ofthe iconicdishes, aurhenric and sustainable tells the intriguing, fun and incrediblesrories behind the ingredients and the majestic land and seascapesthat are the successesof thesecommercial food products.and documents hallmarks of the area'sfood culrure. the numeroushealth-related, environmenral, cultural and politico-economicissues associated with them. \firh more \Trl*Y \\ than 700 alphabeticallyarranged entries, this two-volume \Yhy Calories Count: From Scienceto {* .:: encyclopediaconrains enough lisrings to allow readersto Politics(University of California Press) .$nHInlH$ researcha wide rangeoffascinaring topics. The author treats byMarion Nesdeand Malden Nesheim the massiveamounr of subjectmaterial within this reference waspublished in April. For a detailed title in a fah and balancedmanner. A secondaryfocus of CO$NT : account of the book's look at calories this encyclopediais to chart the spreadof someAmerican fast food chains and junk through hisrory, seeSusan Yager's inter- * commercially produced foods view with Nestle onpage4. internationally. .^"^:::."_::"_i continued on next pqge s poge seventeen Booksby CHNY members,published in20l2 conlinuedfrom PreviousPoge American dietary trends' Smith tecounts how tuna Drinhing History: Fiftem Tiuming Points politics and popular low-cost high-protein food beginning in in the Mahing of Ameritan Beuerages t..u*. a can rolled offthe assemblyline' By 1!18, (Columbia UniversityPress), by Andrew F' 1903,whenihe first salesmade it one of America's most popular Smith. The companion to Smith's Eating skyrocketing In the decadesthat followed, the American tuna History: Thirty Turning Pointsin the Making seufoods. thousands,yet at mid-cen-turyproduction of AmericanCuisine will be published in industry employed Concernsabout toxic levels of methylmercury' November.In it Smith recountsthe indi- started to fud.. and over-hawestingall contributed to the viduals,ingredients, corPorations' conro- by-catch issues industry today, when only three major canned versiesand myriad eventsresponsible for dlmise of the exist in the United States,all foreign owned' A America's diverseand complex beverage tuna brands remarkablecast of characters- fishermen,advertisers, immi- grants,epicures and environmentalists,among many others- colonization, the American Revolution, the \(hiskey Rebellion' this fascinating chronicle of American tastesand the the temperancemovement, Prohibition and repeal,and he tracks iop,rlate forcesthat influence them. the growth of the American beverageindustry throughout the *o.l"d. Th. result is an intoxicating encounterwith an often overlookedaspect of American culture and global influence' TheLiterarjt Gourmet(llJniverse), by Linda'Wolfe' This classic work on food and literature by the former festaufant critic for NewYrtrk Magazine has been brought back into print' First The O{ord EncycloPediaof Food and published in\g(rZ,the book was singled out as a Notable Book Drinb in America"Second Edirton of ,h. Y.u, by the Herald Triltunewhen it appeared,was lauded (Oxford UniversityPress), edited by by critics and reprinted numeroustimes AndrewF. Smith. The follow-up to the in numerouseditions until the 1990s' frrst (2004) edition will alsobe pub- when it went out of print. A collection lished in November.It coversthe sig- of literary scenesby someof the world's nificantevents, inventions and social sreatestauthors who used food to reveal movements that have shaPedthe waY fhur".r., or socialconditions, TheLitaary Americansview, prepareand consume Gourmetalso provides recipes for recreat- food and drink. Enries rangeacross ing the dishesin thesescenes that were historicalperiods and the trendsthat derived from cookbookscontemporane- characteriiethem. This thoroughly updatednew edition cap- ous with the authors,as well ascom- the shifting American perspectiveon food' tures mentary about the chefswhose cook- booksare discussed. The recipeswere testedin the kitchensofthe acclaimedFour SeasonsRestaurant' Ameriran Tuna: The Riseand Fall under the direction of food writer Mimi Sheraton' American of an ImprobableFood(LosAngeles: Universityof California Press)by NwswwAndrewF. Smith. In a lively accountof es: Snachsand Treats the American tuna industry'sfortunes Easy-PeasyRecip (RunningPress) bY and misfortunes over the past century n Mahe and Ear This the food writer and scholarrelates how KarenBerman. Picturebook/ reciPesthat tuna went from being sold primarily cookbook features can managewith asa fertilizer to becomingthe most young children supervision- no sharp commonly consumed6sh in the only minimal "chicken knives, no stovesand no ovensneces- country. In AmericanTuna, the so-called of the sea"is sary.\[ith charming illusrations by both the subiect and the backdropfot other facetsof American Doreen Marts. i*\ history: U.S. foreign policy, immigration and environmental poge sixteen Foodwaysand metropolitan growth in l9th-centuryNew Yofk continuedfrom H istory on theHalJ'S hell "A Modern Boniface,"Nru-Yth Kurlansky, T he Big ?4rler: "The System:Choice Cuisine at a Remon- On Moretti's, see: Restaurant (BallantineBooks, 2006), 1T2-5,178', "New York Tribure, 4 Janvry 1a80, i ablePrice'l NY T)rus,24 MaY 1885, 3' r6Vance,"NY RestaruanrLife," Frank lslie's Harbor Traffic"' Hatp*\ VeehlvSeptember 1, 1ii94, 14 97 -121 (2 Gabacch, PopularMonthly Janury 1893, 102' 8J2; "How the City is FecI,"Chfistian Unian 42:14 ri the '[ables:Restaurants "How Andrew Hiley, Tamixg lTAppleton,236;GT. Femis, aGreatCity is October 1890),428; "Oyster Culturc," Lippincztt\ 1 880-1920 and the Riseof theAnerican hliddle Clas, Fed,"HaQer's tt(teekly 3:22 (March 22, 1890),229-232; Magazirn of PopnlarLiteratilre and ScienwI May I88l' (Universityof Norrh CarolinaPress, 201L),106-7'' King, 70; Ciry Intelligence,"Nat YorkHetald,2 481; "OystersNow in Season,"Nat'YorkTirres,1 gc., "RestaurantSystem," Trra, 3; Appleton& Co', December1848, 2; "ShellFish, from the North," September1883, 8. "The Oystet Applcton\ Dictionary of Nuu Yorhand its Vicinity' Daily Picayw,28 October1U54' 7; City's rsAppleton,216; King,Sl7. $ 1883,2; Mark 6th ed. (D. Appletonand Company, 1880), 181' Market,"NY Tines,l0 September poge eighteen NEW YORK(FOOD) MTNUTE S7herethe river meersthe rock, or meditations on a Frying Pan By Betty Fussell pauseto buy a glassofbeer and head toward the end of Nor rgn oNE HANGTNGrN My the barge.I look to seeif my KrrcHEN,mind you, that cast-ironbat- friend is sitting at one of rhe tered reminder of my Grandma Harper many tablesand chairsscat- as shehanded it to me over 60 yearsago. teredacross the deck and But the Lightship Frying Pan,as she is under the awning for prorec- noq permanently docked near\rest tion from excesssun or rain. 26th LightshipFrying Pan, in herberth. Streetat Pier 56 Maritime on the No, not here.So I climb the Hudson River in the city of New York. iton stairsto the upper deck,en plein air, Dutch EastIndia Company.Instead Once shewarned ships of the shoalsoff where the full glory of the Hudson heaves Henry found only oystersand maizeand CapeFear, until her rerirementhalf a cen- into view. beansand squashand enoughblackbirds tury ago. Elderly and abandoned,she sank, Below me, on my left, the Fireboat for four chousandand twenrypies. appropriatelyfor her name,ac the dock of JohnJ. Harvey keepsthe Frying Pan I think ofhow food brings rhe river an old oystercannery in ChesapeakeBay. company.But the fireboat can move, and the rock togerher;the one is named After threeyears, she arose and ascended for an Englishmanhunting spice,the into heavenas a bar and parry ship. other for narive Lenapehunters and "Meercha at the Frying Pan?"I aslthe sun, silhou- discoveredthis placeseparately long Eventethered, etting ciny stick figuresthat line the rail the bargeI'm on ago, but now we meet to sharefood as swaysslightly on the topmosrdeck. The ship'shorn to the rhyrhm of tl-reriver. well asthe view. This time I brine hard- I walk past boomslike a tuba. $Vasthe caprain an installedrailroad caboose boiledeggs, already peeled, wirh salr and am reassured greeting the Frying Pan? by the sight of my old and pepperin a plastic twist. I bring pal the Frying S7efollow the ship'sdescent to the Panon my left. It's greenand black olives,cherry tomatoes. dockedopposite tip of the island whereit passes,on rhe an open-sidedcounter Shebrings two piecesof fried chicken of bar and grill, left, the dark shroudthat is rising where readyfor customers.I and a containerof guacamoleand chips. once the Twin Towers were. N7esee the She brings real knives and forks and river opening into the sea,where our Betty Fwsell is tbe author cloth napkins.I bring two largepieces of Lady with the Torch srandsstill to say 12 boohs of black chocolate. including The Story of Corn "S7elcome,"or "Hail and farewell." I dip my chocolateinto the pepper and My Kitchen'Wars:A Memoir. \7e know we areeating history in and think of Henry Hudson nosing Her rnostrecent is Raising Steaks. into everybite aswe savorthe meering of the mouth of the river Sheis canently uorhing on a new book 400 yeatsago, river, rock, and sea.Hardboiled eggs, searchingin vain for to be titled How to Cool q .{ E '=c E .-o t ; 3 o o 3 .: o L I c o 'tU o = 06 :.:' 'tr i,r :i': ; r':r-:- l:ir$ -; \1\,1x\i\$l'*r1*ss*-*-ioss1,.1l.l, ',l* t: 1(. N.:,.\; ' l"i\ i,, lt\ *.':r 1 \" 5q xt .:o - f A lithographicview of WashingtonMarket, from the corner of Fultonand Washington Streets in NewYork. p Marketsplayed a leadingrole in the city's vibrant and changing food culture during the 19th century, as scholar Cindy Lobel writes 'tr in "Eatingthe Big Apple: Foodways and Metropolitan Growth in l9th-centuryNew York Gity," on page one. E 9 3 : .=o g ] t 3 ' NWF@DSTSRY o TbeJournal of tbe Calinary Historians of NeutYork o o U Vrsrr us JorN us $7mrEro us www.culi naryhistoriansny. org For information on membership, CulinaryHistorians of New York * visit www.culinaryhistoriansny.org/ P.O.Box 3289 (, Fonow us join.html NewYork, NY 10163 = On Facebookwww.facebook.comi D o Culir-raryHistNY A ' .*'t' E OnTwitter: @CulinaryHistNY ...-,,,:r,:ti:ii:i:i:i::ii:ii:iiri .=o 3 '6 o o