AUTOGRAPHIC STENCILS

Paper / Film: The easiest way to make a stencil is to cut an image out from a thin piece of paper or film. For a single use, kraft paper works well, but for multiple uses (monoprinting and editioning, etc.) thin acetate or mylar often work better since they are tear and water resistent. Paper does have an advantage in that it can be torn to create rough edges or a pourous/patterned paper (such as some asian papers) can be used to create an interesting effect. Film (such as rubylith or those that actually adhere to the screen) can also be used. A hand cut stencil can either be taped directly to the backside of the screen with scotch tape or it can be placed directly on top of the paper each time before printing. Contact paper (which has a mild adhesive) also works well.

Tip: If you are making a stencil to place over your printing paper, make the stencil larger than your paper so that you can tape it down onto the table while printing.

Screen Filler: Screen filler is a non-toxic, fast-drying, water-based liquid used to blockout the negative (non-image) areas of the screen, preventing ink from passing through those areas and printing. The positive (image) areas remain open and ink is able to pass through the mesh of the screen and onto the substrate (generally paper, but fabric, clay, other matrices, etc. are also options). It is also used to blockout pinholes in photomechanic stencils.

1. STIR WELL! DO NOT SHAKE. Screen filler tends to separate quickly so stir occasionally with use. 2. Apply screen filler to the negative areas of the image with a brush, matboard chip, finger, etc on the backside (non-printing side) of the screen. Your application should be as thin and even as possible. Screen filler can be used to create hard-edged or soft, painterly marks. Tip: If your layer of screen filler is too thin, you will see tiny points of light in that area which could allow ink to pass through and print. Paint on another thin layer of screen filler directly over the first, but only after the first layer is dry. Check this by holding the screen up to a bright light.

If your layer of screen filler is too thick, it will take much longer to dry and could potentially crack or flake off, exposing the mesh and printing.

3. Use a blowdryer on the high heat setting (approx. 2 min.) to dry and set the screen filler. The screen filler should be heat set, even if allowed to air dry, in order to prevent it from washing out with water or deteriorating during printing. Screen Filler is water soluble while wet but permanent when dry. 4. Clean any brushes immediatley with water (and soap if necessary). 5. CLEAN & DRY the lid and rim of the jar and put it away.

Drawing Fluid: Drawing fluid is a water-based, fast-drying, liquid used to create a positive image that acts as a resist to a thin layer of screen filler applied directly on top.

1. Shake jar well and let the fluid settle for a minute before opening. 2. Apply drawing fluid to the image areas of the screen with a brush (or tool of choice) in a thin layer. Thicker applications take longer to dry and could contain bubbles which may pop and leave the screen exposed (bad) or cause the image to expand and become fuzzy on the edges (also bad). 3. Heat set the drawing fluid with a blow dryer. Be careful not to keep the dryer on any area too long or too closely because it could burn a hole in the screen. 4. Once dry, scoop coat a thin, even layer of screen filler over the entire area. Clean up any thick or runny areas with a matboard chip. Do not overlap passes, they can become too thick. Tip: Do this as soon as possible after the drawing fluid has dried. Humidity and time can cause the drawing fluid to become soft and breakdown when covered with screen filler. 5. DO NOT HEAT SET the screen filler. Allow it to air dry or use a cool fan. 6. Once dry, take your screen to the wash out sink in the darkroom and genlty spray the screen with cold water (both sides) until the positive image is completely washed out. 7. Let the screen dry and now heat set the screen filler with a hair dryer and proceed to printing. 8. Clean brushes, the lid and rim of the jar, and scoop coater with water and immediately and put away.

Tip: Any imperfections can be corrected with screen filler once the screen dries.