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The Enchanting Traditions of -Locanda Dell'isola Comacina

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The Enchanting Traditions of -Locanda Dell'isola Comacina _...,,_" _~" __ " _"_'_~r _ . , Italian Tribune December 30, 2004 • 19 THE ENCHANTING TRADITIONS OF , , -LOCANDA DELL'ISOLA COMACINA Editor's Note: The Italian Tribune Publisher's Tour of Italy continues to the Lake Region. Here, we visit Lake Como and the tihy island of Comacina, home to a very special restaurant called Locanda dell'Isola Comacina. CÖMACINA, ITALY- As their tiny boat departs from Bellagio. ,those who have . never visited Comacina have yet to discov- er the delights that lie ahead, Upon arrival at the island, which is ~irtually uninhabit- ed and serves only as the- setting for the Locanda restaurant, an, inn, and several small buildings, visitors have agrand view of the surrounding Lake Como - a J?ictur- esque body of water located in Northem ltaly not far from the Italian Alps. Locanda dell'Isola Comacina is a din- ing spat unlike .any other, The restauraut serves oflly one menu, six days a week. This is the very same menu that visitors have enjoyed since 1947 - not one change has been made in over 50 years. Owner Benvenuto Puricelli was born on the ' mainland ip. Sala Comacina and began a career in the restaurant business in 1963. He left Italy for several years, living and working at the Palace Hotel in St. Moritz, Switzerland; participating in the 2500th nniv r f t 1 . - Cacanda restaurant, an mn, and sever. small buildings, visitors have agrand view of the surrounding Lake Corno - a J?ictur- esque body of water lacated in Northern Italy not far from the Italian Alps. Locanda dell'Isola Comacina is a din- ~'nI ing spot unlike any other. The restaurant serves=ofily one menu, six days a week. This is the very same menu that visitors have enjayed since 1947 - not one change has been made in over 50 years. Owner Benvenuto Puricelli was born an the' mainland ir Sala Comacina and began a caieer in the restaurant business in 1963. He left Italy for several years, Jiving and working at the Palace Hotel in St. Moritz, Switzerland; participating in the 2500th anniversary of the Persian Kingdorn at Persopolis: and caaking as executive chef at the Penthause Club in London, He returned to Italy in 1976, where he settled in Comacina and succeeded, Lino "Cotoletta" Nessi as proprietor of the Locanda restaurant. , The menu at Locanda is simple and nearly perfeet, featuring typical, authentie LOCANDA DELL'ISOLA COMACINA, one of northern Italy's best eateries, is nestled on a gorgeous island inthe middle of regional dishes that vary only slightly with Lago di Como,ltaly. The tiny island of Comacina is shrouded in locallegend, having been cursed in 1127 by a mysterious poet, , the seasons (the restaurant is closed every and since surviving numerous sieges and conquests throughout the years. Today, visitors to the island are enchanted by its year from November 1 thraugh March 1). beauty and by its haunting past. Every dish is all-you-can-eat, and a white D.O.C. wine is served with the meal. Contrabbandiera, the chef serves fresh the hand of each dinner guest, 'ing tauch in a large, capper pat at the table The first course is Antipasto. all'Isolana. trout grilled o.n ahot plate over charcoal. For dessert, guests are served Arance - coffee with brandy - he explains the leg- Each guest is served a slice of tomato, The traut is boned and dressed at the alla Castellana. Oranges are sliced at the end of the island of Comacina, , toppedby a slice of Iemon and seasoned dient' s table or in the kitchen. table and served in an exquisite ice cream According to local historians. the with salt, oil, and aregano.. Then,eight Next is Rattami di Pollo in Padella, called fior di vaniglia. The entire dish is village af Comacina flourished and different fresh vegetables are paraded free-range .chicken opened and covered with creme all'isoiana. The type of praspered even back during the period out of the kitchen - celery, carrots, baked "crushed," and then fried in an iron pat fruit served varies seasonally, usually : when the Lake Regian was merely fjords ' onions, sweet peppers, caurgettes, beans, with oil. The chicken is served with salad. peaches are substituted. of the Adriatic Sea. The Romans con- . broccoli, and .French beans. Slices of The fourth caurse is called Grana The meal' s extraordinary finale is a , quered the village and its inhabitants Prosciutto di Praga and Bresaola della all'Escavadora - a simple chunk of Locanda tradition that is never broken, At moved south, where they faunded the Valtellina (salted beef dried in special cel- famous Parmtgiano-Reggianocheese. At the sound aE, a bell, Benvenuto himself twa villages of Corno and Vico - which lars) are heaped an aseparate plate. the table, apiece of the cheese is cut from enters the dining room adorned in a special eventually joined to form the present city For the secend course, Trota .alla the middle af the wheel and given.into wool cap. As he prepares the meal' s finish- of Corno. (confinued on page 26) J , 26· December 30,2004 Foon, WINE & TRAVEL Italian Tribune , 1 I The 'Enchanting Traditions of Locanda dell'Isola Comacina ~ (continued from page 19) Saint Domenica, the island with the phrase,' Greeks arrived after _the Little by little, Comacina' s . "Island, . cursed by thou .Romans, and when the Roman power continued to increase, throughout the ages!" . Empire converted to Christianity 'During the famous Ten Years Forty-two years later.. Corna- the early pagan temples built on War, the island became Milan's cina was captured by Corno, the island were consecrated as ally in a struggle against Corno. Queenof the Lake. Every fortifi- churches. The five original The island was, however, jour- cation was destroyed, induding churches on the island became a neying to ruin and in 1127 an the five churches and the island' s , refuge for Christians and served . unknown poet known as "The castle. The inhabitantsthat sur- as a fortress for the people when Anonyrnous Cumano" cursed. vived the attack fled. the Barbarians, hoping to conquer Years passed and grass invad- the region, wreaked havoc on the ed the ruins of the island, which . surrounding area. At this time, passed frorn one ruleT to anoth- the Christian refugees began to er until it became property of build hornes on the island and . the Bishop of Corno in 1196. Comacina took. the name Later, Cardinal Durini atternpt- Cristopolis, or "Cityof Clirist." ed to recover Cornacina from One of the refugees was· the c abandonment and turn it into a great Francilione, who fled to the sort of earthly paradise. His, island during the invasion of the . noble quest failed, Lombards. He brought with him a Much later in 1911, Auguste horde of treasure that he had been Caprini of Sala Cornacina pur- able to save frorn the vandalism of chased the last lot of land on the the -Barbarians, but the treasure island, thus becorning the sole was soon coveted by Autharis, the owner .of Comacina. Upon his husband of Theodolina, who death, he bequeathed the land to directed his troops to besiege and King Albert I of Belgium. The conquer the island. Iittle island was sacrificed with After six rnonths of battle, painful emotion during the sad Francilione surrendered ' to years of World War I, but after Aulhäris. AuthariS'granted peäce the war Comacina was rightful- and 'allowed Francilione to take ly returned to Italy. In 1927 a BENVENUTO PURICELLI, second-generation owner of the refuge in Ravenna. The inhabitants CHEF ANTONIO OSTINELLI royal decree placed the island Locanda dell'Isola Comacina restaurant, is pictured during the end- of the island were spared rnassacre of Locanda dell'Isola Comacina under the rule of Princess of-dinner ritual. Adomed in a distinctive woolen cap, Puricelli and were ableto continue living on presents the third course of his Marie-lose, daughter of Victor- recounts the legend of the mysterious island as he whipsup an after theland. specially prepared - dinner, Emmanuel III. ' dinner coffee for his guests after a symbolic ringing of the bell. Throughout the years, numer- Rottamidi PolIo in Padella. He By this appointment, Corna- and allowed Frandhone to' take ~y~~. ~~~ ••••••••• ly returned to Italy. In 1927 a BENVENUTO PURICELLI, second-generation owrter of the refuge in Ravenna,Theinhabitants CHEF ANTONIO OSTINELLI royal decree plaeed the island Locanda dell'lsola Comacina restaurant, is pictured during the end- of the island were spared massacre of Locanda dell'lsola Comacina under the rule of Princess of-dinner ritual. Adomed in a distinctive woolen cap, Puricelli and were ableto eontinue livingon presents the third course of his Marie-lose, daughter of Victar- recounts the legend of the mysterious island as he whipsup an after theland. specially prepared dinner, EmrnanueIIII. ' dinner coffee for his guests after a symbolic ringing of the bell. Throughout the years, numer- Rottami di Pollo in Padella. He By this appointment, Coma- ous dethroned kings and prinees is pictured here with Marion cina eame to be govemed by two settled in Comaeiria, whieh had Fortunato, wife of Italian Tri- eommissions. The first, headed eome to be known as an oasis of .bune Publisher Buddy For- ~ by the Minister of National peaee. Even saints settled on the tunato, who recently enjoyed a Education and the Belgian- island, as the quiet village was a meal at' the restaurant during ambassador, had its seat in perfeet plaee to lead a Iifeof med- the Italian Tribune Tour of Rome. The other, with its seat in itation and prayet. Saint Abonde Italy. Locanda, located on the Milan.was governed by the Fine brought the Saint Euphemia eult island of Comacina, Italy, has Arts president and the Belgian to the island.
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