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December, 1.872 Vol. VII, No. XXXVIII.] [Price ad. THE SHliB OR RI1 H. SECOND SER.IES. "A trivial Grammar School text, but woIihy a wise mau's consideration."-Bacon's Essay on Boldness. DECEMBER, 1.872. ~~trJr.O'ntt: PUBLISHED BY JAMES ELLIS, BOOKSELLER, THE PARADE. THE SHIRBURNIAN. VOL. VII. DECEMBER, 1872. No. XXXVIII. THE KING AND QUEEN OF THE BERNESE ALPS. CONTINUED. ~N the Thursday afternoon before we began work this term, I ~ made up my mind to turn homewards with all the three peaks undone,-all our three cards unplayed. I had packed up and was ready to start down the Rhone valley next morning early for Geneva, when lo! before dinner, the north wind blew, the stars had that bright clear look which we had so long in vain watched for, and" Won't you stop and have another try at her in the morning ~" was irresistible. We agreed to get up at twelve and start at one, and try to do the Jungfrau in a single day, straight from the inn, as it was then far too late to think of starting for the Faulberg cave, to sleep that night. There were three of us this time, not counting guides, as a member of the Alpine Club turned up at the table d'hote, and asked to be allowed to join us. He had Zorfluh, a tolerably famous guide, with him, and we had Fischer and Meynig, as before. Fischer, indeed, was out sleeping in the Faul­ berg cave, but we calculated we should be able to pick him up about four in the morning as we passed up the glacier. 'Vc were off, as agreed, by one, stumbling by lantern light up the stony zigzags of the Eggischorn path. It is very disagreeable 118 Tile Kill/{ alld Queen 0/ the Bernese Alps. work by the fitful shimmer of the lantern, but we had during our long stay, got to know that path only too well, and in time we got down on the other side of the ridge, across the now empty Maljelen See, and all to the Aletsch glacier. By this time we could do without the lantern, and Zorfluh, who as the first ascender of the Dent Blanche (said to be the most difficult of all the Swiss peaks), enjoys some little reputation among guides, hectored the unfortu­ nate Meynig a good deal, as being only a local man, and shewed him the way about his own glacier. I suppose it was about four when we got well abreast of the Faulberg cave, which is high up among the rocks on the left bank of the gbder. They jodelled for Fischer, and presently we were delighted to see him coming striding over the glacier with his axe under his arm, and uncoiling the rope as he came along. He scanned the p:l,rty closely, smiled approvingly at us for trying again, put the rope round himself and then stood at ease while Meynig strapped US all up, and then without a word led off. Zorfluh was never he:ll'd of again. He relapsed into an unimportant unit, and never ventured to dispute supremacy with Fischer as he had done with Meynig. There was no mistake about the weather this time. The Jungfrau was standing out in dazzling white against a cloudless blue sky, and so were all her neighbours. We rattled merrily along over the firm crisp snow, a very different process to our last journey, and in time got to the rocks we had turned back on before. On getting to the top of them, we had steep snow slopes for a very considerable time, and it began to get decidedly hot work. I snppose it was necessary not to lose more time than we could help, as we had only one day instead of the usual two, but I am inclined to think that the union of two parties tends to increase the pace. I rather think Fischer thought there would be no great harm in "extending" Zorfluh a little, and I do n't snppose any of us c:l,red to be the first to ask for a stoppage. At all events, I know I had come to the conclusion that if Fischer did u't stop in about another minute I would be obliged to give in and call a halt, when all at once I heard a voice from the rear, "Halt." It was Zorfluh's employer, I am glad to The King and Queen of the Bernese Alps. 119 say, and I instantly assumed the air of a person who does n't mind stopping as a particular favour, but looks upon it as a nuisance. The parties' respiratory organs were all in very full working order, I concluded, on looking into the question, except Fischer's. We had now come to the interesting part of the ascent. In front of ns rose a very very steep snow slope, seamed across by two yawning bergschrunds, and ending in a level ridge which led up on the right straight to the summit of a peak. The ridge we knew was the Roththal Sattel, the peak we knew was the top of the Jungfrau, but had I been asked, I should have said first that wc could not get across the chasms, second that the snow near the Sattel was over­ hanging and would inevitably come down with us, and sweep us into the schrund, and thirdly, that if we once got on the Sattel, that sharp ice-covered needle was much too steep to climb. As no one thought of asking my opinion on any of these subjects, I did not communicate my views to the public, but Zorfluh was, as far as I could understand him, enunciating one or more of them. From Fischer he got contemptuous grunts in reply, and finally a peremp­ tory request to hold his tongue, as far as I could judge from the tone. It was very interesting to see Fischer cross the schrund. He reached up with his axe in his right hand as far as he could, and pulled down deluges of snow into the chasm, which he managed to knead into consistency. Then he took a gigantic lunge and succeeded in driving his axe-head firmly into the snow on the other side, and by the hold he thus got, pulled himself on his stomach up across his newly-made snow bridge, and established himself. He then hauled us up seriatim by the rope, and when well established we proceeded up the snow staircase he made us, and across the second less troublesome schrund. On getting to the top, he was to be seen with his legs out in air, balanced on the pit of his stomach on the Sattel, and I suppose investigating things in the Lauter­ brunnen valley beneath. The process seemed to give him great satisfaqj;ion, as he began to jodel vigorously. We all finally got on to the Sattel. It is a sharp edge no doubt, but not so bad as I expected by a great deal. You certainly can not see down into the 120 The King and Queen of the Bernese Alps. \ Roththal, as you are told, though if you slipped I have no doubt you would slide down into it, as in fact the party had done so fatally about three weeks before. Fischer's only other unsuccessful attempt to ascend, before the one I have just described in the last Shirburnian, ended at this point. He had two Frenchmen in tow, and one was very very much exhausted, but Fischer thought if he could only get him to the top of the Sattel, the view down on the other side would give him a fillip for the final climb, and he accord­ ingly dragged him up, I believe, by main strength. The unfortu­ nate man, however, on getting to the top, covered his eyes with his hands, and shrieked, "Abtme profonde, ablme profonde," and refused to do any thing but return to the Eggischorn, where he stayed and narrated the terrors of the Sattel to every fresh arrival, until the landlord had to interfere to prevent the custom of his inn being destroyed. The final climb was hard work for Fischer; he cut a spiral ice staircase patiently and carefully round the top of the peak, and we wound slowly up. It was perilously steep. I did not think so at the time, but I do now. It was so steep that, as I say, we were obliged to work up spirally, and a fall would have been disastrous. The top is a sharp edge about twenty feet long, nearly level, and falling sheer away on both sides like the roof of a house. We sat across it with a leg dangling on each side, all in a row, and ate and drank, and looked on such a view as the eyes of man seldom see. I won't attempt to describe it. It was the Jungfrau view on a perfect aay. Every peak was glittering in the sun, against a deep deep blue sky, and far below was the Lauterbrnnnen valley and Interlaken. It is stereotyped in the mind for ever, and herein lies the true charm of mountaineering. A view like that seen for only a quarter of an hour impresses itself so vividly on the mental retina, that it can always be recalled even amidst an English November fog. Then we came down again, Fischer last, as the most onerous post.
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