A Guide to the South West

South West visitors are spoilt for choice. You can visit the towering trees and crystal clear brooks of the or enjoy the refreshing cool waters along the spectacular coast. Surf the big waves offshore on the Capes coast, see stingrays at Hamelin Bay or snorkel beside colourful marine life. Descend into the subterranean wonderland of the world-renowned limestone caves between the Capes, where mini-lakes and fossilised remains of ancient mega-fauna are plentiful. Marvel at the rich and varied birdlife of the Vasse-Wonnerup wetland near or the Leschenault estuary near Bunbury. With the establishment of new national parks – 30 in all from to the south coast – there are so many things to see and do. Use this guide to create your personal tour or call the Department of Conservation and Land Management for more information.

Head Office Locked Bag 104 Bentley Delivery Centre WA 6983 Ph (08) 9334 0333 South West Regional Office South West Highway Bunbury WA 6230 Ph (08) 9725 4300 Blackwood District Office 14 Queen St Busselton WA 6280 Ph (08) 9752 5555 Wellington District Office 147 Wittenoom St Collie WA 6225 Ph (08) 9734 1988 Visit CALM’s NatureBase website at www.naturebase.net

Main – Cape Naturaliste. Photo David Bettini. Insert - Eucalyptus blossom. Photo Jeff Henderson/CALM. Managing editor Sue McKenna Coordinator Nicci Tsernjavski Graphic designer Natalie Jolakoski Published by the Department of Conservation and Land Management 2004

Boranup, Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park. Photo Chris Garnett/CALM. Tracks and trails There are many excellent tracks to help you explore The Munda Biddi Trail the South West’s natural wonders. Whether you are after a short stroll or an adventurous hike there are tracks to suit everyone. This long distance off road cycle trail winds its way through the jarrah forest from Mundaring to Collie. It is proposed to extend the trail from Collie to Albany. The trail is well marked and has campsites every 35km to 40km between towns. These campsites have toilets, water, tables, bike storage, sleeping quarters for 25 to 30 people and tent sites. For more information on the Munda Biddi Trail see www.mundabiddi.org.au or phone (08) 9334 0265.

There is no doubt about a healthy community. 140-kilometre length of it: parks provide the Parks also keep the the Cape to Cape Track, perfect setting to environment healthy by while others may prefer improve your health and improving air quality, to picnic at one of the wellbeing and also keep reducing erosion, many recreation sites the environment healthy. delivering clean drinking dotted throughout the water and contributing South West, or even There is considerable the clear waterways. volunteer to keep the evidence worldwide that parks healthy by establishes a strong Parks offer the helping care for plants correlation between opportunity to meet and animals. spending time in parks, the different needs of the physical and mental different people. People So help your health by health of individuals and may choose to walk the stepping out in the bush! The board walk at Malbup bird hide in the Wonnerup wetlands. Photo Jeff Henderson/CALM. Along the Bibbulmun Track The Cape WA’s world class, 1,000km walking experience to Cape Starting in the hills near Perth, the Bibbulmun Track There are 48 campsites in total, eight of which are located passes through the South West’s jarrah forests on its way in the South West. Campsites are not more than a day’s Track to its destination on the south coast at Albany. walk apart and each site has a three-sided timber sleeping shelter, picnic table, water tank, tent sites and toilet. All The Bibbulmun Track links many of the favourite attractions Stretching 140km from Cape sites in this region except the Blackwood campsite have of the South West forests. It passes beneath the majestic Naturaliste to Cape Leeuwin, the fireplaces but the use of fuel stoves is encouraged. trees of the virgin jarrah forest at Lane Poole and skirts the Cape to Cape track takes you to Harris River Dam north of Collie. The Track then passes A map or guidebook is an essential item to carry to ensure stunning coastal cliffs, beautiful through Mumballup in the fertile Preston Valley before a safe and enjoyable walk. beaches and shady karri forest. reaching dense jarrah forest and lush, damp gullies Brochures are available to the There are eight maps published by CALM that cover the dominated by graceful blackbutt trees. five sections of track from South entire track. Maps four and five (Collie and Blackwood) and West CALM offices. Two Dropping down into the , walkers will find A Guide to the Bibbulmun Track: Northern Half, guidebooks are also available, the charming town of Balingup with its local crafts, cover the South West forests. These are available for Walking the Capes and A Guide accommodation options and the Golden Valley Tree Park. purchase from CALM offices and some bookstores. to the Cape to Cape. For more After crossing the walkers re-enter jarrah Contact the Bibbulmun Track Foundation on (08) 9481 0551 information contact the CALM forest before encountering the mighty karri forest. On the for details about events, planning advice, guided walks and Busselton office on (08) 9752 track, look out for the Waugal symbol to guide you. walk packages. For more information see: 1677 or go to www.margaret- Self-guided walking and camping with a backpack is a [email protected] or river-online.com.au/capetrack great way to experience the forests of the South West. www.bibbulmuntrack.org.au.

2 A Guide to the South West Celebrating the waters of the Capes:

Dive into the South West Mosaic sea star. Photo Sue Morrison. The coastal waters of Geographe Bay to Hardy Inlet represent a mix of species found nowhere else in the world.

For example, the lighthouse shell snail (Campanile Leeuwin and Cape Naturaliste, around Gracetown symolicum) is endemic to the South West. This living and Sugarloaf Rock. fossil is the only surviving relic of an ancient family. Alternatively, you could take a whale watching tour The waters of the Capes have tremendous ecological from Augusta or Dunsborough for a close up view. value. This coast supports a range of marine Busselton’s historic jetty, the jetty remnants at environments including gentle, sheltered bays with Hamelin Bay and the reefs of Yallingup Beach and long sweeping beaches, granite and limestone reefs and inlets snaking down to the sea. This habitat Kilcarnup are great snorkeling locations with diversity provides excellent opportunities for diving, abundant marine life including coral, sponges, fish, snorkeling and boating. snails and crustaceans. Only here do seagrasses descend to depths of 30 The Leeuwin current brings warm water from the metres along rocky, wave-bashed shores. The sheltered tropics to our cooler temperate waters. Some tropical Geographe Bay supports one of the largest seagrass animals hitch a ride on the current and have meadows in . established themselves in our temperate waters. One example is the colourful coral encrusting the pylons These seagrass beds are vital to the marine of Busselton jetty. ecosystem. They provide breeding and feeding grounds for many fish species and produce oxygen, Marine life can also be viewed from the Busselton which helps maintain water quality. As the seagrass underwater observatory, a three-level chamber with dies and rots away, it provides food for many marine large windows offering views under the end of the animals. jetty. Tours are guided and charges apply. The annual whale migration to and from Antarctica Boat launching facilities are available at many points provides a great opportunity to see these ocean on Geographe Bay. There are also facilities on the giants up close. Humpbacks and southern right western coast at Canal Rocks, Gnarabup and Hamelin whales can be seen off this coast as they pass Bay. through on their way to their northern breeding If you want more information about marine life Global fish in hollowed out pile. Photo Sue Morrison. grounds in July and as they travel southwards in in the South West, buy Snorkel Dives of the South- November. Look for southern right whales lolling in West or pick up a free copy of Celebrating the the shallow bays, particularly around Augusta. Waters of the Capes from CALM offices and visitor The best viewing areas for humpbacks are Cape centres.

Mixed seagrasses. Photo Sue Morrison. Southern right whale. Photo Ann Storrie.

WA’s conservation, parks and wildlife magazine Discover more about Volume 19 Number 4 WINTER 2004 $6.95

Montebello and Barrow islands marine the conservation reserves South West Two views of Shark Bay Butterfly gardening Crabs of Roebuck Bay A range of informative and attractive West, Birds of the South-West Forests and Jetty, an underwater photographic study publications filled with bright, Beachcombers’ Guide to South-West of the marine life along the southern colourful images is available from Beaches. They’re available at good hemisphere’s longest jetty which is, CALM for people who want to know bookshops, visitor centres and CALM offices. effectively, a huge artificial reef; and Wild more about the South West and its The multi-award winning quarterly Places, Quiet Places, a pictorial guide with picturesque environment. magazine LANDSCOPE presents the magic of maps for weekend escapes and holidays. Western Australia’s flora, fauna and special The excellent Bush Books series (28 titles) is A series of free guides, such as this one, is places in every issue. It is easy to read, ideal for people wanting practical field available from CALM offices to help you scientifically accurate and available from guides on WA’s unique plants, animals and plan your travel to natural wonders of newsagents and by subscription (phone special features. Titles include Waterbirds of this vast State. Others include the Guide to 9334 0333). the South-West Wetlands, Bush Tucker Plants Southern Forests and Celebrating the Waters of the South-West, Orchids of the South- Other books include Beneath the Busselton of the Capes.

A Guide to the South West 3 Protecting biodiversity in our parks What is biodiversity? Biodiversity is the vast array of plants and animals that make up the eco system. Did you know that the entire area west of an imaginary line between Geraldton and Esperance is recognised internationally as one of 25 biodiversity ‘hot spots’ in the world and is the only such area in Australia? The area between Busselton and Augusta has been classified as a national biodiversity hot spot because of the high number of unique species that have evolved in the region and the threat they face through land clearing and development. The South West is a magnificent mosaic of about 1,500 plant species, many unique or endemic to the area because of its isolation Queen of Sheba orchid. Photo CALM. from the rest of Australia by desert and the limestone plains of the Nullabor. Many plants maintains ecological processes, such as the have proliferated in our Mediterranean carbon cycle, that are vital to all life forms. climate: there are about 60 species of National parks and other reserves are critical banksia and more than 300 varieties of in maintaining biodiversity because they orchid. protect species and their habitats. It is Maintaining biodiversity is important. Apart therefore essential that they are of sufficient from the fact that plants and animals are size, placement and variety to achieve this. part of our natural heritage and should be This is the basis of what is termed a protected for their own sake, biodiversity also comprehensive, adequate and representative helps provide productive ecosystems and reserve system. Bramley National Park. Photo Chris Garnett/CALM.

National Park System

The State Government is working to build a world class parks system. Proposed additions in the South West include: 1. an expansion of Wellington National Park, and Greater Preston National Park near Collie; 2. Bramley National Park along , north of the town; 3. the Butler, Hilliger, Milyeannup and Easter national parks to the west and south-west of Nannup; 4. Blackwood River National Park along both sides of the river; 5. Yelverton National Park south east of Yallingup; 6. Forest Grove National Park to the south of Margaret River; 7. Dalgarup National Park west of Bridgetown; 8. various smaller parks around Nannup and Bridgetown, such as St John Brook and Hester conservation parks; and 9. National Park near Busselton. Some of these have been formed specifically to protect old-growth forests including parts of the extended Wellington National Park, in the new parks along the Blackwood River and in a number of proposed new national parks south of the Blackwood River. Others contain important populations of threatened species. The proposed Forest Grove is home to a community of the critically endangered white bellied frog and the proposed Blackwood River National Park supports a critically endangered plant community dominated by Reedia spathacea, in its low- lying swamp areas. Blackwood River, Blackwood National Park. Photo Chris Garnett/CALM.

4 A Guide to the South West Look high and low for jarrah forest plant jewels

Blue leschenaultia (Leschenaultia biloba). Photo CALM.

Magnificent jarrah forests exist only Some of the most attractive flowers include the blue leschenaultia (Leschenaultia biloba) and the in Western Australia’s South West. common dampiera (Damperia linearis), with intense These towering trees grow up to 60 metres tall and royal blue flowers. cover 1.6 million hectares of forests and woodlands The jarrah forest understorey includes in the area between Perth, Albany and the south- many species of hibbertia, with their characteristic western coast of WA. yellow ‘buttercup’ flowers. The orange star They grow mainly on the nutrient poor lateritic (Hibbertia stellaris) is the only one with orange upland soils of the Darling Plateau where more than flowers. There are also several species of banjine, 700mm of rain falls each year, although the largest with bunjong (Pimelea spectabilis) being particularly grow in the rich loamy soils of the adjacent deep attractive with white flowers in heads tinged with river valleys. pink. Few trees grow in association with jarrah. However, A creeper found in the forest, particularly after fires, there are some exceptions. Some other eucalypts is the old man’s beard (Clematis pubescens) with occur with jarrah – marri and its large ‘gum nut’ large, four-petalled white flowers. Native wisteria fruits, WA blackbutt and its pointed blue-green (Hardenbergia comptoniana) and the coral vine leaves, and the white-barked wandoo in the eastern (Kennedia coccinea) are also widespread. areas. Among the understorey trees are sheoak and Grasses, sedges, lilies and orchids also cover the bull banksia. ground. The striking xanthorrhoea or balga is Apart from the majestic trees there is a wonderful another common plant throughout the South West. diversity of other plants with around 1,500 species The balga can grow up to three metres tall and has thriving in jarrah forests. long flowering spikes. King jarrah tree. Photo Chris Garnett/CALM.

Millions of years in the making ~ ~130 130 million million years ago years ago

The distinctive landforms of the Slowly, the gently undulating hills East of Perth, the Darling Range AustraliaAustralia South West represent several of the Darling Plateau began to extends for about 300 kilometres GreaterGreater thousand million years of form. from near Dandaragan to the east IndiaIndia geological evolution, making it a of Bunbury. These hills are made Around 95 million years ago, as microcosm of the Earth’s of granite, gneiss and laterite Australia was separating from the AntarcticaAntarctica formative history. rocks that are up to 3,700 million supercontinent Gondwana, an years old. The landscape of the South West extensive system of rivers was ~~ 90 90 million million years ago years ago is very old, developing about 295 established over much of the Rocky foundations help million years ago when a large South West, which began to create plant diversity icecap covered most of its surface. experience a moist, temperate to This was when Australia was part tropical climate. About 40 million Rocks form the basis for soils of the supercontinent Gondwana. years ago there was a huge rise in which, combined with climate, AustraliaAustralia GreaterGreater During this time, Australia was sea level, flooding parts of the determine the plants that thrive in IndiaIndia close to the South Pole and Swan Coastal Plain and large areas an area. Many plants that thrive in glaciers carved broad deep valleys along the south coast. the South West are unique or into the landscape. During the endemic to the area. This is partly AntarcticaAntarctica Between 25 and 40 million years because they have evolved over next 200 million years, as ago, a tropical climate allowed Australia began to break from millions of years to grow on deep weathering of the rocks and ~~ 3030 million million years ago years ago Australia Gondwana, the Darling Fault ancient soils and partly because of the gravelly laterite soils of the the isolation from the rest of became very active. This caused Darling Range to form. During the uplift of the huge land mass to its Australia from the Nullabor Plain. Greater past two million years, the In the South West there is a India east (the Yilgarn Craton) and a coastline changed position many magnificent diversity of about AustraliaAustralia large depression (called the Perth times in response to the expansion Basin) to form along its western 1,500 plant species including and contraction of the polar about 60 species of banksia side, which slowly filled up with icecaps. Sand dunes developed sediment. The Swan Coastal Plain and more than 300 varieties of Antarctica parallel to this changing coastline orchid. now overlies part of this basin. and are now represented by AntarcticaAntarctica Heat, cold and rain on this ancient undulating limestone hills and To find out more about the land surface weathered and ridges that form the Quindalup, geology of the South West, see Vasse-Wonnerup Oceanic crust Rifting Wetlands. eroded the hills and valleys that Spearwood and Bassendean dune the CALM Bush Book Geology and Continental crust Current coastline Photo CALM. were formed by glacial action. systems. Landforms of the South-West.

A Guide to the South West 5 Exciting caves: a historical treasure trove Creative education in forests Active learning at special centres nestled in our South West forests is CALM’s creative way of educating students about the importance of protecting our natural environment. After all, the future of our environment hinges on young people understanding its value and knowing how to protect it. The Wellington Discovery Forest, located near the Wellington Dam, between Bunbury and Collie, is the main facility. It offers a range of enjoyable hands-on Calgardup cave. Photo Michael James/CALM. excursions that are part of CALM’s EcoEducation program designed to develop ownership and understanding of the Interesting crystal formations, mini-lakes fauna’ that roamed the area until 40,000 years environment. and the fossilised remains of ancient ago. Evidence of human habitation dating back In addition, the program offers resource packages for creatures are among the amazing sights in 40,000 years has been discovered in the caves. classroom activities and professional development for the subterranean wonderlands of the caves The caves are also home to threatened teachers. All programs are linked to the Curriculum in the Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park. communities of tiny, barely visible creatures Framework and promote biodiversity conservation. There are more than 100 caves in one of the called stygofauna that live in water and the Activities are for students of all ages. Younger students world’s most extensive aeolian (wind blown) roots of trees hanging down from the surface. can enjoy the ‘Sense-ational Trail’ where they are limestone deposits. Seven are regularly open to Some species date back to Gondwana, the blindfolded and guided through the forest touching, the public - Calgardup, Giants, Ngilgi, supercontinent of which Australia was part, smelling and listening as they go. Older students can learn Mammoth, Lake, Jewel and Moondyne caves. more than 45 million years ago. how to monitor native animals through fauna trapping. The caves were formed in the past two million The shallow Calgardup Cave is accessible to all There is a range of accommodation available nearby years by water dissolving limestone. To ages, contains a stream flowing all year round including camping, cottages and bed and breakfast guest paleontologists they are treasure troves of the and has many colourful crystal formations. homes. past, with their stable, alkaline environments Giants Cave is for the more adventurous, being having preserved the remains of animals that one of the biggest and deepest, with vertical EcoEducation activities are also operating at the Margaret have fallen in. ladders and rock scramblings. Both are on Caves River EcoDiscovery Centre. Facilities include student Road south of Margaret River, are self-guided bunkhouse-style accommodation, toilets and showers. Remains found in the caves include Tasmanian and do not have electric lighting. Visitors are tigers, Tasmanian devils, koalas, marsupial Bookings for Wellington Discovery Forest and Margaret equipped with helmets, lamps and information. lions, giant kangaroos, giant wombats, River EcoDiscovery Centre programs can be made through Zygomaturus (cow-sized creatures that looked For more information contact CALM’s caves CALM’s Wellington District Office (Phone 9734 1988 or like wombats) and other examples of ‘mega- office on 9757 7422. email [email protected]). Delight in bird watching and mighty tuart Visitors to the popular tourist town of Busselton are on the doorstep to see two of the South West’s most attractive ecological locations – the mighty tuart trees and the rich birdlife of the Vasse- Wonnerup wetlands.

Australian white ibis. Photo Jeff Henderson/CALM. Left – White faced heron. Photo Babs and Bert Wells/CALM.

The Tuart Forest National Park north- the Ludlow, Abba and Sabina Rivers, Swamp harriers sweep low over the east of the town covers nearly 1800 which enter the Vasse estuary marshes in search of prey, while kites, hectares and protects Western nearby. eagles and osprey circle above. Australia’s largest remaining pure stand The vast expanses of open water, bays of tuarts. These trees are unique to the Nearby is the historic Wonnerup and inlets of the estuary comprise an House, built in 1859 by the pioneering limestone country of the Swan Coastal internationally significant wetland Plain in the South West of WA. Layman family. There are two providing breeding and feeding homesteads on the property along with grounds for numerous species of The dense peppermint understorey stables, a blacksmith shop, sawpit and waterbird, some rare. Among them are and open glades of the forest provide a school teacher’s cottage. habitat for the rare and endangered ibis, egrets, spoonbills, herons, many , along with duck species and cormorants. The beautifully restored buildings a wide variety of birds and other Tiny migratory waders make the long provide a rare opportunity to learn animals including parrots, possums, journey from northern China and about the life of South West pioneers bandicoots and kangaroos. The forest Siberia. Greenshanks, plovers and and are open from 10am to 4pm. also serves as a filter for the waters of sharp-tailed sandpipers also visit. Closed Tuesdays and Thursdays. Tuart tree. Photo Robert Powell/CALM.

6 A Guide to the South West Dan-joo Dabacaan – together, steady, steady Nyoongar people and CALM working together Dan-joo Dabacaan – meaning ‘together, steady, steady’ – describes CALM’s approach to ensuring that Indigenous people are strongly represented in conservation and land management. Indigenous people have been managers and custodians of this land for thousands of years. Their minimal impact farming techniques, intricate knowledge of the seasons and use of fire are well recognised. Working together will help the community protect the immense natural and cultural values of Western Australia. The Department recognises the unique role and expertise that Aboriginal people can have as both traditional owners with a cultural responsibility to care for country, and as managers of conservation lands and waters for the State. CALM’s Aboriginal trainees pictured with staff from the department’s Indigenous Heritage Unit. Photo CALM. Training traineeships throughout WA, many in the South West. “We are working with traditional land owners and the One of the key ways in which CALM is working with After three years, these trainees will be well on the trainees we bring in are aware the program is a three Indigenous communities is through the development way to becoming national park rangers, field officers year commitment for them – that’s important,” Tania of employment opportunities. The Department has and technical officers. There are also university said. cadetships under which students can study full-time recently initiated the Mentored Aboriginal Training “We are providing nationally accredited training that and work with CALM during their breaks. and Employment Scheme (MATES) with non- will equip the trainees to compete in the competitive government organisations. All trainees and cadets are offered full-time positions employment market of nature conservation. We are This program will ensure Aboriginal people make up on successful completion of their training or studies. also focusing on personal development and helping 10 to 15 per cent of CALM’s ful-time workforce in CALM’s Indigenous Heritage Unit’s Business people move into leadership roles.” the next 10 years. Development Coordinator, Tania Donovan, said the CALM Senior Policy Advisor, Peter Sharp, said by 2012 There are close to 50 Indigenous people completing training program for rangers had been a big success. CALM hoped to have up to 175 Aboriginal employees. Forested haven for water creatures

Slender tree frog. Photo CALM.

The South West’s rivers and rushes (reeds) at the waterline help water crustaceans such as frogs, hold the banks together and slow the marron, gilgies and koonacs and small support a forested haven water flow, again reducing turbidity. native fish like pygmy perch, western for a range of plants and Leaves and bark dropped by river gum, minnows and nightfish. These creatures animals, many of which paperbark, blackbutt, river banksia and also hide from their predators in the swamp peppermint trees provide the nooks and crannies of the river snags. are unique to the region. main source of nutrients needed to fuel All these animals are endemic to the river ecosystems. As the leaves slowly South West of WA. The protective canopy provided by the break down they are eaten by tiny huge jarrah and marri trees on the When snags poke out of the water they fungi and bacteria, which are in turn slopes high above the rivers limits the provide good resting places for birds. eaten by insects and crustaceans. flow of topsoil and organic matter into Diving birds, such as the darter and the water during heavy rainfall. This Trees and branches that fall into rivers pied cormorant, rest on these branches helps prevent turbidity (cloudiness) and create snags and help form deep pools to dry their water-soaked wings after excessive nutrients in the water, both of as water rushes past them, eroding the hours of fishing. which can harm river life. riverbeds and banks. Kangaroos, wallabies and tiger snakes are Smaller trees, understorey plants, sedges These pools provide habitat for fresh also frequent visitors to the water’s edge.

A Guide to the South West 7 Care for your environment Leave nothing Boranup, as well as threatening and bats. Tree felling is a big issue private property. You can’t be too because people trample vegetation but footprints; careful with fire,” he said. while searching the bush and there is always the risk of injury from He has also seen the damage take nothing but falling tree limbs, not to mention caused by rubbish left by visitors. memories... the fire risk. “After busy times, some campsites “Basically, when people follow the look like the aftermath at the rules, it makes a huge difference to “If only all park visitors followed showgrounds and not a secluded the environment. It can also help this philosophy,” CALM national bush camp. make your stay a lot safer and park ranger Brian O’Hehir said. “Snakes have died after having more pleasant,” he said. Too often he has seen the damage their heads caught in drink cans When in doubt about the caused by people. and birds have come to grief in regulations, contact or visit the plastic nearest CALM office. “Campfires can cause problems in can carriers – commonly seen on The South West parks are a the national parks,” he said. six packs of beer cans. Those are wonderful natural asset. Take the particularly dangerous in marine “We had a case recently where time to look after the environment environments. people failed to extinguish a fire and these beautiful natural areas properly and it burnt out 200 “In other cases the illegal felling of will remain attractive for many hectares of coastal heath near trees for firewood has killed birds generations to come.

On CALM- Gas barbeques are provided dieback disease by guidebooks about all at some campsites. observing vehicle access aspects of your trip. managed lands restrictions and use boot- Bush code • Firewood is provided by • Bikes are not allowed on cleaning stations. please remember... CALM at car-based the Bibbulmun Track or the campsites. Please use it Please don’t ... Cape to Cape Track. of ethics • Camping is permitted only in sparingly. The collection of • Groups of eight or more clearly signposted areas. A bush wood is discouraged • Feed or disturb wildlife. self-managed system of fee- because it can destroy the should not to occupy paying applies at some sites, • Use detergents or soap Bibbulmun Track campsite habitats of various plants products in waterways. where campers calculate and animals. shelters before 6pm. fees according to a • Disturb rocks or cultural • Remove your rubbish and • Observe the Code of displayed schedule and use artifacts. take it home. Campsite found in every a deposit box. At other sites, shelter. fees may be collected daily • Dogs are not generally When planning a by the ranger or as youenter. allowed in national parks, walk or cycle trip • Munda Biddi cyclists should but are permitted in State not ride cross-country off • Campfires can only be lit at forests. If you bring your remember... the trail or cut corners, and certain times of the year. dog to a State forest, keep should use the bike parking Please refer to signs at sites • Check latest news and track it on a lead at all times and conditions from CALM, spaces at each campsite. or speak to a CALM ranger. apply a muzzle to prevent it Generally, fires are not NatureBase or relevant • Respect private property. taking fox baits, which will track web sites. allowed during daytime kill your pet. When in doubt about park hours in summer. Visitors • Seek advice and help from regulations, contact or visit are encouraged to bring • Stay on the tracks. CALM, relevant track the nearest CALM office their own gas or fuel stoves. • Prevent the spread of groups, maps and (see contacts on front page).

Western Shield brings animals back from brink of extinction Western Australia’s native fauna been directly proportionate to the recovery program – Western Shield decline of certain native animals, – is a world class predator control particularly those in the 35 grams to program that has brought at least eight kilograms weight range. three species back from the brink of Western Shield has four elements: extinction. predator control, fauna translocation, captive breeding and fauna monitoring. Western Shield is one of the biggest wildlife recovery operations in the world. Most State forests and national parks of It involves baiting 3.5 million hectares of Woylies. Photo Babs and Bert Wells/CALM. the South West, except Leeuwin- conservation lands to control introduced Naturaliste National Park, are baited predators – the European fox and feral Since baiting began, three mammals regularly from the air. Others such as the cat – that have been a major factor in have been removed from the threatened Leeuwin-Naturaliste, Tuart Forest and the decline of many native species. species list: the woylie the proposed Yelverton national parks are The baits are impregnated with the (a small kangaroo-like animal), ground baited. poison 1080 which also occurs naturally the quenda (or southern brown Because breeding in some areas has been in the native ‘poison peas.’ bandicoot) and the tammar wallaby. so successful following baiting, CALM Because native animals have evolved Anecdotal evidence suggests other has had the opportunity to translocate alongside these plants, they are tolerant species such as the numbat and brush animals to other areas where they were to the poison’s toxicity. However, the wallaby are breeding successfully as a scarce. Captive breeding and careful result of baiting. Cyclists in Bramley National Park. poison, even in tiny amounts, is deadly to release of animals at certain locations Photo Jeff Henderson/CALM. foxes and feral cats. Historically, the spread of the fox has also helps rebuild numbers.

8 A Guide to the South West Things to do Look for these symbols in the following pages to find out more about: Nyoongar culture Colonial times

Timber and trains

Land plants and animals

Marine plants and animals

Bibbulmun Track

Cape-to-Cape track

Munda Biddi cycle trail Rafting on the . Photo Chris Garnett/CALM.

including free gas BBQs and a Location: 42km from Bunbury and number of short walks. 187km south of Perth via the South Glen Mervyn Dam D3 Around Harvey West Hwy. This dam is primarily used for water skiing. Other activities include Logue Brook Dam D1 Travelling time: 40 minutes from Tall jarrah forest, ancient swimming, fishing and picnicking. Logue Brook Dam has a number of Bunbury, two hours 40 minutes from Facilities include BBQs, picnic granite outcrops, rivers picnic sites as well as camping and Perth. tables and toilets. and dams access for water skiing, boating and Things to do: Honeymoon Pool on fishing. The Logue Brook Caravan Park the banks of the Collie River is a has caravan and camping sites, cabin Leschenault Peninsula Some of the dams also provide ovely spot to camp, picnic, swim or accommodation and an opportunity for water canoe. Camping is also available at Conservation Park C2 a shop/café. skiing and boating. D2 Potters Gorge. Several other picnic This long, narrow peninsula separating sites are available at the Wellington Location: The town of Harvey is 140 the Indian Ocean from the Leschenault Wildflower picnic site D1 Dam and Potters Gorge, and along estuary supports a diverse range of plant km south of Perth via the South This secluded picnic site located on a Lennard Drive on the banks of the West Hwy. The following sites are communities including tuart woodlands granite outcrop provides views of the river. and coastal wetlands. The peninsula within a 30km radius of Harvey. Harvey Dam, surrounding valley and Enjoy the following walk or cycle trails has a long and fascinating history coastal plain. Enjoy a picnic or BBQ Travelling time: Less than two hours through the jarrah forest. involving Nyoongars, Irish and English from Perth, 40 minutes from here and a short walk through the colonial settlers, Fenian convicts, • The Sika Tjenangitj - approximately Bunbury. forest on the wildflower trail. Indian labourers and alternative four hours return from the dam lifestylers. Hoffman Mill D1 Yarloop Workshops Museum D1 kiosk (9.4km). The Sika circuit can link to the Kurliny Tjenangitj trail; These extensive workshops were You can find out more about its history This old mill town is set in jarrah add an extra 5km. at the John Boyle O’Reilly forest on the banks of the Harvey established in the early 1900s to service the steam trains so critical to the timber • The Kurliny Tjenangitj or Come and Information shelter and at River. Although the town is long Belvidere. gone, buildings and fruit trees industry in the South West. The museum See Trail (pronounced Kurlin remain. Camping is available from includes a working steam locomotive, cheningen) - approximately three Location: 150km south of Perth, 22km 1 November till Easter. There are steam generators and several workshops hours return from Honeymoon Pool north of Bunbury. also picnic facilities available all year and is open from 10am to 4pm daily. to the lookout (5km). Travelling time: 30 minutes from To find out more about past or present • Lennard Mountain Bike Trails: working life in the South West pick Three mountain bike loops of Bunbury, two hours from Perth. up a brochure for The Working 6km, 9km and 11.5km. Starts Things to do: off Pile Rd. Life Trail at visitor centres. • Picnic at Belvidere or at the John Crooked Brook Forest C3 Boyle O’Reilly site. (Gas BBQs at Belvidere). The community-run Crooked Brook forest offers a great spot for a picnic • Enjoy walking, swimming or fishing Around Bunbury beside the brook or a short walk in the at Buffalo or Belvidere beach. jarrah forest. Although a lovely trip • Birdwatch along the estuary and Collie any time of year, the wildflowers are foreshore. best in spring. forested hills, steep river • Camp at Belvidere or the Cut (boat, Location: 25km east of Bunbury in the walk or cycle access only to the Cut). valleys, tranquil wetlands Ferguson Valley. • Walk or cycle from Belvidere to the and beautiful ocean beaches Travelling time: 20 minutes Cut, around 9km one-way. This from Bunbury. path winds through tuart and peppermint woodland and has Wellington National Park D2 D3 Harris Dam D2 panoramic views across the estuary The Wellington National Park is set in The Harris Dam has picnic facilities to the Darling Range. rugged terrain covered by jarrah and including gas BBQs. Because the dam marri forest. The Collie River dissects provides drinking water to Perth Other natural attractions nearby: Picnickers at Crooked Brook Forest. the landscape and forms a series of and the Great Southern, water- • The Dolphin Discovery Centre and Photo Jeff Henderson/CALM. picturesque river pools, perfect for based activities are not the Mangrove Boardwalk, both off camping or picnicking. allowed. Koombana Drive in Bunbury. A Guide to the South West 9 granite boulders sculptured by the sea. Snorkel with a diverse range of colourful marine creatures or enjoy some of the best surf in the world. Wildflowers are abundant in spring, both on the coastal heath and in the forests inland. The tall ghostly karri forest at Boranup is the world’s westernmost karri forest. The coastal limestone caves of the Capes district are spectacular and are the largest occurrence of aeolian (wind blown) caves in the world. Location: Margaret River, central to this national park, is 100km south of Bunbury, 25km south-west of Busselton and 277km south of Perth. Travelling time: One hour 15 minutes from Bunbury, three hours 15 minutes south of Perth. Things to do: • Camp among the peppermint trees at Contos or Hamelin Bay. • Self guide at Calgardup or Giants cave or take a guided tour of the many other caves. • Visit Cave Works and discover how these caves were formed. • Visit Hamelin Bay and see the stingrays. • See nature’s granite sculptures at Canal Rocks or Sugarloaf Rock.

Pylons of the Busselton jetty encrusted with marine life. Photo Sue Morrison. • Visit the lighthouses at Cape Naturaliste and Cape Leeuwin. hour walk starting at Layman picnic Location: In Margaret River, access • Visit the karri forest at Boranup for Around Busselton ground. You will need to do this from Rotary Park at the north end of a picnic, walk or scenic drive. walk at night with a spotlight town. • Visit the historic or large torch to see the wildlife. towering tuarts, world Travelling time: One hour from Ellensbrook Discover Geographe Bay’s Bunbury, three hours 15 minutes from homestead. class wetlands and Perth. • Learn more about Nyoongar way of colourful marine life marine life B4 Things to do: life at the Wardan Centre. Open every day but Tuesday. • Visit the Busselton Jetty. At 1.8km • Picnic at Ten Mile Brook Dam Phone (08) 9756 6566 long, this is the longest wooden (gas BBQs) or on the banks of the Tuart Forest National for more information. jetty in the Southern hemisphere. Margaret River at Rotary Park. It offers excellent fishing and an Park C3 B4 • Visit the steam train ‘Kate’ at Rotary opportunity to view spectacular Park and discover more about the The Tuart Forest National Park is a marine life through diving, park’s sawmilling history. stone’s throw from Geographe Bay and snorkelling or visiting the the Vasse-Wonnerup estuary, an underwater observatory (bookings • Walk or cycle one of the series of internationally important wetland that are advised—phone 9754 3689 or trails. Trails range from around 2km supports thousands of waterbirds. The email [email protected]). return to 15km return. park protects the largest remaining Trains run the length of the jetty tuart forest in the world. It also has and a free museum is Rapids Conservation Park B5 the tallest and largest tuart trees, open from 7.30am till At Rapids Conservation Park you can some as high as 33 metres. These 6pm. discover a diversity of vegetation from tuarts provide an abundance of nesting the giants of the jarrah forest to micro hollows used by the park’s numerous communities on the granite outcrops. birds and native mammals including Enjoy a swim in the deep pools on the the threatened western ringtail possum Margaret River. and the more common brush tail Around Margaret possum. Location: 22km north east of Margaret River. Location: 15km north east of River — secluded river Busselton on the scenic Tuart Drive. Travelling time: 20 minutes from camps, spectacular caves Margaret River, access from Osmington Travelling time: 10-15 minutes from Rd. Busselton. and a wild, rocky coast Things to do: Things to do: • Camp, picnic or swim at Canebrake • Visit the Malbup Bird Hide and Bramley National Park A5 Pool on the Margaret River (wood see the abundant birdlife of The proposed Bramley National Park BBQs, BYO drinking water). the Vasse-Wonnerup estuary. is a forest escape in the heart of • Visit Wonnerup House. This National Margaret River. Enjoy a picnic then Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Trust property is open each take a walk or ride along the river Park A3–A6 day except Tuesday and path. Here you will see karri, marri Thursday from 10am to 4pm. and jarrah trees on the uplands and The Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park blackbutt and peppermint trees lining stretches from Cape Leeuwin to Cape • Picnic at Layman picnic site. the riverbanks. Several historic timber Naturaliste, and has 120km of • Walk the Possum Night Spotlighting bridges span the river, a relic of the spectacular coastline with long, sandy Discovering nature’s treasures at Canebrake Pool. Trail. This is an easy 1.5 km, one old log railways. beaches, rugged limestone cliffs and Photo Jeff Henderson/CALM. 101 A Guide to the South West Walking in St John Brook Conservation Park. Photo Jeff Henderson/CALM. Blackwood River. Photo Michael James/CALM.

• Look for whales in July, October and Sues Bridge: 50km or 40 minutes November all along the coast. Some south of Busselton. of the best locations for whale Hut Pool: 30km or 40 minutes from watching are Cape Naturaliste, Margaret River. North Point at Gracetown, Injidup, Moses Rock and Cape Leeuwin. Things to do: • Walk the Cape to Cape Track. • Picnic, swim or fish at Sues Bridge, Warner Glen, Alexandra Bridge, For more information on things Wrights Bridge or Hut Pool. to do, pick up the Leeuwin- Camping is permitted at all sites Naturaliste National Park brochure except Hut Pool. Wood BBQs are at from visitor centres or the Busselton each campground. BYO drinking or Bunbury CALM offices. water to all sites. • Canoe along the Blackwood River which has access from all Blackwood River campgrounds. Forests around St John Brook Conservation Park C5 Nannup — follow the Best known for the gently flowing St Pacific black duck at the Vasse-Wonnerup wetland. Jeff Henderson/CALM. John Brook and its picturesque river mighty Blackwood River pools, St John Brook Conservation Park Hewer’s Hut on the Old Timberline You can also walk the is a favourite with locals and visitors Trail and camp overnight. Bibbulmun Track north from the forest to the sea for swimming, picnicking and camping. to Gregory Hut (3km). The park also has a fascinating Other forest picnic sites D5 C5 B5 B6 sawmilling history from early last Location: Between Bridgetown, Golden Valley Tree Park D4 century that is still evident today Balingup and Nannup. The Golden Valley Tree Park is set in a around Barrabup Pool and along the South-west of Nannup there are Distances: beautiful valley and features hundreds many opportunities to explore the Old Timberline Trail. of magnificent trees from Australia • Karri Gully: 20km or 20 minutes east beautiful Blackwood river and its Location: 8km north-west of and around the world. Enjoy a picnic of Nannup. pools. The river is more than 500km Nannup, 50km south-east of then stroll through the park and long, the longest in the South West. Busselton. • Bridgetown Jarrah Park: 18km or admire the tall cedars, ancient It flows past tall jarrah and marri 15 minutes west of Busselton. gingkoes, and a variety of heritage Travelling time: 10 minutes from fruit trees as well as Australian forest, picturesque farmland and • Wrights Bridge: 10km or 15 minutes Nannup, 40 minutes from Busselton. eucalytpts and rainforest trees. coastal woodland before entering south-west of Balingup. the southern ocean at Augusta. Things to do: The many deciduous trees are ablaze Things to do: with colour in autumn. The park is Location: Between Nannup and • Picnic or swim at Barrabup Pool. • Picnic at Karri Gully or the a joint community and CALM Alexandra Bridge. • Camp or swim at Workmans Pool. Bridgetown Jarrah Park. project. Alexandra Bridge: 22km or 25 minutes • Walk or cycle the Old Timberline • Walk the Fallers Brand Trail or the Location: 2km south of Balingup. from Augusta. Trail from Nannup to Cambray Shield Tree Trail at the Bridgetown Travelling time: 65km or 50 Warner Glen: 20km or 25 minutes siding (20km one way). Jarrah Park (short walks of easy to minutes from Bunbury, 240km or from Margaret River. • Hike or cycle in to the Sleeper medium grade—20 to 90 minutes). three hours from Perth. A Guide to the South West 111 Guide to the South West

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SOUTH Wellington N Wellington Dam RD D A M Forest LEN DARDANUP NA Potters Gorge Cottages DR RD IV ROAD E ROAD W C PR R Y E OO Wellington Dam A E S ST K ED W T O N Picnic Site H E R R BR M IG N D O UNG O PRESTON Bennelaking H K ALUP H

W D R Conservation Y King Jarrah BOYANUP LLIE RD CO Park 3 WEST Crooked Wellington BOYANUP Brook Discovery Glen Mervyn Dam Greater Preston Forest Forest Muja P National Park BUSSELL MUMBALLU Conservation Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse Bunker Bay RIVE Tuart Forest CAPEL R Park

National Park CA Sugarloaf Rock PEL NOGGERUP E DONNYBROOK RIV RIV E SOUTH Wonnerup D G R Leeuwin-Naturaliste OOD House W Busselton TUART OO National Park Jetty D CA YALLINGUP VES R BUSSELTON Layman Picnic Site R Ryall Ngilgi OAD OAD Camballan Conservation SOUTH WEST D Cave Yelverton Malbup Bird Hide Conservation ROA Canal Rocks RIVER Park BOYU Park UR National Park H D Injidup WIL D R Kerr DWOO P RT D OA A

Wardan R VASSE Conservation HILL Centre W ES Park Mullalyup T AN ER ROAD Jarrahwood 4 Conservation N Moses Rock APM Conservation BALINGUP BRO BROOK CH Whicher Park Park OK National Park Hester BLACKWOOD Golden Valley Conservation BOYUP AY

W H BOYUP BROOK SUES Tree Park Park H IG Wrights Bridge HW ROAD HIG RO COWARAMUP AY North Point AD Bramley R ROAD RIVE GRACETOWN RD St John Brook EAK National Park R HIGHWA B Ellis Creek Lefthanders E N Canebrake Conservation Park

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Homestead RTE ROAD MOW R RS MARGARET Barrabup Park ROAD OA D MARGARET Pool Dalgarup RIVER Rapids National BRIDGETOWN WALLCLIFFED ROA Rotary H Workmans Pool Park Conservation T Blackwood NANNUP Park Ten Mile OR

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N Blackwood River Warner Glen WA D Campground A National Park V IDI R D HIGH O S A Milyeannup Leeuwin-Naturaliste D O Canebreak N AN National Park Boranup Alexandra BROCKM National Park Bridge RO Forest Drive AD RROADO AD Tone Perup STE WARREN KARRIDALE WAR National Park Hilliger PPERUPERUP Hamelin Bay T National Park MANJIMUP RO Cosy Corner Molloy Island AD D SC A OTT ROAD O Moondyne Cave M RROAD UIRS Scott River ER Jewel Cave RIV 6 National Park AD O R SO U AUGUSTA T VASSE H UP SKIPPYROCK Beedelup AR ROAD Flinders Bay BE NY National Park AN CCHANNYBEARUPH P Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse Waterwheel U

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O H NORTHCLIFFE Shannon IG N H State forest National Park W OCEAN A Western Y Mount Frankland Proposed National Park Australia D’Entrecasteaux Boorara Gardner National Park National Park National Park Proposed Conservation Park C HE Mount Frankland Y S E A Proposed park names may change once all parks are declared L National Park P T

E ROA A A E K H E Bibbulmun Track D WWHEATLEY Munda Biddi Trail Mount Frankland Proposed Munda Biddi Trail National Park RROADO 8 Cape to Cape Walk Track AD Scale 20 N M E N 0 40km E R T V O O Broke Inlet F G D E P A R T M E N T O F

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