1799 Interpretive Heritage Trail Report

1799 Interpretative Heritage Trail Feasibility Study Report Sunshine Coast Council May 2019 Converge Heritage + Community

Document Verification Project SUNSHINE COAST 1799 Interpretative Heritage Feasibility Study Project Number 19065C Document Title 1799 Interpretative Heritage Trail File Location Shared Data/19065 Matthew Flinders Walking Trail/1799 Interpretative Heritage Trail Feasibility Study_FINAL_15052019.docx Client Sunshine Coast Council

Version history Revision Date Nature of revision Prepared by Authorised by 0 15/03/19 Draft report CB SG 1 15/05/19 Final report with recommendations CB SG 2

1799 Interpretative Heritage Trail | i Executive Summary

Sunshine Coast Council (Council) is exploring the possibility and practicality of creating a heritage interpretation trail between Pumicestone Passage and the Glass House Mountains on the Sunshine Coast with the primary intention to “follow in the footsteps” of Matthew Flinders and his support party, who explored the area in 1799. The purpose of this Project is to research and report on the trail followed by Matthew Flinders and his support party to determine if an alignment can be mapped corresponding to the approximate route taken by the party. Council has noted that the primary aim of the project is to provide enough information to Council Officers to enable them to make an informed decision on the viability of the project. Specifically, the report should assist Council Officers to have information to decide if it is justified for subsequent funding and effort to be expended on further planning, design, construction and ongoing operation of a heritage trail in this location. This report is a final report setting out research results addressing a specific list of questions provided by Council. Conclusions • There is a good amount of primary and secondary material regarding Flinders' exploration of Moreton Bay, including his inland expedition to Mount Beerburrum and Mount Tibrogargan. • We know a reasonable amount about Bungaree, but virtually nothing about the remainder of the crew. • Flinders did not survey the inland route, so it is not possible to reconstruct it accurately. • However, his descriptions of landmarks, general directions and other related information allows us to determine his likely path, including the point at which he landed in the Pumicestone Passage. • For example, we know with a good degree of certainty that the inland expedition began around Donnybrook; that the party encountered Glass House Creek; and then turned inland, heading first towards Mount Tibrogargan before changing course and reaching Mount Beerburrum. • Our ability to determine the path is further enhanced by several instances of thematic mapping, especially hydrography, geology and contours. • The information Flinders provided in his report to the Governor, John Hunter, also provides descriptions of his and his party's interaction with the Kabi Kabi People and the flora and fauna of the area. However, Flinders encountered no people and very few animals on his inland trek - the interactions were on Bribie Island and in the Pumicestone Passage more generally. • Flinders noted some key landmarks, principally creeks, estuaries and the Glasshouse Mountains. However, his walk to Beerburrum and Tibrogargan was largely uneventful and Flinders did not add much to his earlier observations in the Pumicestone Passage or Moreton Bay more generally. • Approximately 1/3 to 1/2 of the trail is in Moreton Bay Regional Council local government area. • There are some Indigenous and non-Indigenous cultural heritage features in proximity to the trail that may complement it. There is certainly enough material and evidence to warrant continued investigation of a trail.

1799 Interpretative Heritage Trail | ii Contents

1 Introduction ...... 5 1.1 Background ...... 5 1.2 Purpose ...... 5 1.3 Methodology ...... 5 1.4 Personnel ...... 6 1.5 Timing ...... 6 2 Context ...... 7 2.1 Matthew Flinders ...... 7 2.2 Governor John Hunter...... 8 2.3 Bungaree ...... 9 2.4 The Norfolk ...... 10 2.5 The Voyage ...... 10 3 Sources ...... 12 3.1 Flinders in Moreton Bay ...... 12 3.1.1 Primary Sources ...... 12 3.1.2 Secondary Sources ...... 12 3.2 Specific Recorded Events and Observations ...... 13 3.3 Identified Landmarks ...... 14 3.4 Evidence of the Physical Path ...... 14 3.5 Interaction with the Kabi Kabi People...... 19 3.6 The Other Members of the Party...... 20 4 Maps ...... 21 4.1 The Trail Map ...... 22 4.2 Proportion of the Trail in Sunshine Coast Council area ...... 22 4.3 Geological, Land Types and Landscape ...... 22 4.4 Cultural Features...... 22 4.4.1 Indigenous ...... 22 4.4.2 Non-Indigenous...... 23 5 Conclusions...... 31 5.1 Conclusions ...... 31 References Cited ...... 32

Appendix 1 - Flinders' Report in Collin's Account of the English Colony ...... 33

1799 Interpretative Heritage Trail | iii List of Figures

Figure 1: Toussaint Antoine DE CHAZAL DE Chamerel - Portrait of Captain Matthew Flinders, RN, 1774- 1814 (Google Art Project)...... 7 Figure 2: Captain John Hunter, Governor of New South Wales, 1801, engraved by Ridley, published by Bunny and Gold, Shoe Lane, State Library of New South Wales...... 8 Figure 3: Augustus Earle - Bungaree A Native Chief of N.S. Wales - Google Art Project...... 9 Figure 4: Replica of the Norfolk, near Redcliff for the 215th anniversary of Flinders' exploration of Moreton Bay (https://www.redcliffeguide.com.au/news/261-matthew-flinders-in-redcliffe)...... 10 Figure 5: Flinders, Bungaree and the two sailors rowing towards the Glasshouse Mountains on the Friday morning (By nautical artist Don Braben (https://peterlud.wordpress.com/2018/01/27/ reminders-of-peoples-past-00-matthew-flinders/). .. 11 Figure 6: Flinders' survey of Moreton Bay (1814). The red circle indicates the general area of the trail...... 14 Figure 7: Approximate landing spot (beginning of blue line). Note Goat Island and the smaller island above it; it is assumed these are the 'two low mangrove islands' Flinders described...... 15 Figure 8: From the landing spot to Glass Mountain Creek, then southwest. The circle indicates the possible crossing point; note the tributary off the creek proper...... 16 Figure 9: The trail from Glass Mountain Creek to Mount Beerburrum...... 17 Figure 10: From Mount Beerburrum to Mount Tibrogargan...... 18 Figure 11: From Mount Tibrogargan to the original landing spot...... 19 Figure 12: Approximate route taken by Flinders. The blue line indicates the inland route; the green return to the Norfolk...... 23 Figure 13: The trail in relation to local government boundaries...... 24 Figure 14: Cadastral map...... 25 Figure 15: Contour map...... 26 Figure 16: Hydrography map...... 27 Figure 17: Geology map...... 28 Figure 18: Vegetation map...... 29 Figure 19: DATSIP cultural heritage features...... 30

List of Tables

Table 1: Non-Indigenous cultural heritage sites...... 22

1799 Interpretative Heritage Trail | iv 1 Introduction

1.1 Background

1.2 Purpose

The purpose of this Project is to research and report on the trail followed by Matthew Flinders and his support party to determine if an alignment can be mapped corresponding to the approximate route taken by the party. Council has noted that the primary aim of the project is to provide enough information to Council Officers to enable them to make an informed decision on the viability of the project. Specifically, the report should assist Council Officers to have information to decide if it is justified for subsequent funding and effort to be expended on further planning, design, construction and ongoing operation of a heritage trail in this location.

1.3 Methodology

Council provided a list of questions, the answers to which will assist in the purpose of the project. The questions are: 1. What reliable information is available regarding the journey taken by Matthew Flinders and his support party between Pumicestone Passage and the Glass House Mountains in 1799 as part of his broader expedition, including: a. Specific recorded events and observations. b. Identified landmarks. c. Evidence of the physical path taken. d. Interaction with the Kabi Kabi People. 2. What information exists relating to other members of Flinders' Party, in particular Bungaree (Bungaree), the Aboriginal guide who accompanied Matthew Flinders and his party on the journey? 3. Which segments of the party’s journey can be confidently discerned and mapped (cadastre/GIS based), and which segments are more conceptual? 4. What proportion of the trail is located within the Sunshine Coast Local Government Area? [This could be provided as maps showing the line of the trail, with local government boundaries included as a layer]. 5. What geological, environmental and cultural (Aboriginal/Kabi Kabi and non-Aboriginal) places and features are likely be identified by a full assessment of the trail and other available resources? Likewise, what other (if any) culturally significant land marks exist in the surrounding area which may complement this project? 6. What land types and landscape would be traversed (today) by the Matthew Flinders trail?

1799 Interpretative Heritage Trail | 5 To address these questions, the report is divided into chapters (with Chapter 1 the Introduction). • Chapter 2 sets the context for the voyage, including brief biographical information about Matthew Flinders, the Governor of New South Wales who ordered the voyage, John Hunter, and Bungaree. • Chapter 3 provides answers to Council's questions regarding sources (questions 1-2 above). • Chapter 4 provides responses to Council's questions regarding mapping (questions 3-6 above). • Chapter 5 summarises the report findings. A note about Aboriginal boundaries: For this report, the area occupied by the Kabi Kabi People is deemed to include Bribie Island, Pumicestone Passage and the land Flinders and his party traversed on their inland expedition. This assumption is based on publicly-available maps produced in a variety of historic and contemporary contexts. This assumption may be contested by some Traditional Owners and Converge does not claim the assumption to be exact.

1.4 Personnel

This report was prepared by Dr Craig Barrett, with the assistance of Simon Gall and Jim Smith.

1.5 Timing

A draft report with preliminary research outcomes was presented to Council in March 2019. The final version of the report (this report) was completed in May 2019.

1799 Interpretative Heritage Trail | 6 2 Context

This chapter sets the context for Flinders' voyage to Moreton Bay and his expedition to climb Mount Beerburrum in July 1799.

2.1 Matthew Flinders

Matthew Flinders (1774-1814) was born in Lincolnshire, England. Flinders joined the Royal Navy in 1789, determined to explore the world after being inspired by Daniel Dafoe's Robinson Crusoe. He sailed to Tahiti under the famous William Bligh and after returning to England sailed on the H.M.S. Bellerophon. The ship was engaged in the Glorious First naval battle in 1794, the first and largest of the naval battles between England and France during the French Revolutionary Wars. He then sailed to the Port Jackson penal colony in 1795 on the H.M.S. Reliance, along with the ship's surgeon, George Bass. The two men shared a love of exploration and soon began to explore the surrounding waters, including Botany Bay, George's River and the Illawarra River. After sailing to Cape Good Hope for supplies and carrying out hydrographic work in the Furneaux Islands, Flinders returned to exploration of the new continent. Flinders and Bass circumnavigated Van Diemen's Land (Tasmania) in 1798-9 in the sloop Norfolk, proving it was an island. The Governor of the colony of New South Wales, John Hunter, then sent Flinders on an expedition north to explore the 'large openings marked by Captain Cook', the furthest of which was Hervey Bay.2

Figure 1: Toussaint Antoine DE CHAZAL DE Chamerel - Portrait of Captain Matthew Flinders, RN, 1774-1814 (Google Art Project).

2 David Collins, An Account of the English Colony in New South Wales, v. 2, London, T Cadell Jun & W. Davies in the Strand, 1802.

1799 Interpretative Heritage Trail | 7 2.2 Governor John Hunter

John Hunter (1737-1821) was himself an accomplished seaman and explorer, and as Governor he was eager to chart as much of the Australian coastline and interior as he could. Hunter joined the Navy in 1754, serving in battles against the French in the Seven Years War (1756-1763). Hunter received his first commission - as lieutenant - in 1780 whilst serving during the American War of Independence. Hunter was appointed second-in-command of the H.M.S Sirius in 1786, one of the ships of the First Fleet carrying convicts to Botany Bay. On arrival the Governor, Arthur Phillip, with assistance from Hunter, decided that Port Jackson was more advantageous a location for the settlement (this area is now occupied by the Sydney CBD). Hunter then sailed the Sirius to the Cape of Good Hope in 1788 to secure grain and medical supplies for the struggling penal settlement, circumnavigating the globe in the process. The Sirius was sunk off Norfolk Island in 1790. Hunter was court-martialled for the loss of the ship but acquitted of blame. Hunter returned to England to find the nation once again at war with France. Hunter sailed on the flagship Queen Charlotte, but during this time Arthur Phillip expressed his desire to leave the Port Jackson penal colony. Hunter was the obvious replacement and he was duly commissioned as Governor, sailing for the colony in 1795. The population of the colony at the time was 3,211, of which 1908 were convicts.

Figure 2: Captain John Hunter, Governor of New South Wales, 1801, engraved by Ridley, published by Bunny and Gold, Shoe Lane, State Library of New South Wales.

1799 Interpretative Heritage Trail | 8 Hunter had a difficult time as Governor (1795-1800), struggling to contain the growing power of the New South Wales Corps and the illicit trade in rum (eventually leading to the infamous Rum Rebellion and the deposing of the Governor William Bligh - his second mutiny). He excelled in exploration though, often making substantial exploratory journeys on his own, and of course directing Flinders (and Bass) to explore Van Diemen's Land and the northern coastline as far as Hervey's Bay.

2.3 Bungaree

For the voyage along the coast, Flinders was given a crew of eight, including a man from the Broken Bay people, Bungaree (? - 1830). We do not know who the crew were, except that they were all volunteers from the naval ships at harbour in the colony. Bungaree was recognised for his 'good disposition, and open and manly conduct' and was thus selected to help Flinders communicate with Aboriginal people encountered along the voyage.3 He was a good companion, accompanying Flinders on the voyage around Australia in 1802, the first Aboriginal person to circumnavigate the continent. A suburb on Bribie Island was named after him (albeit with a different spelling).

Figure 3: Augustus Earle - Bungaree A Native Chief of N.S. Wales - Google Art Project.

3 Collins, An Account of the English Colony.

1799 Interpretative Heritage Trail | 9 2.4 The Norfolk

The sloop Norfolk is as much a character of the voyage as the crew that manned it. It was a small craft with very little space for the crew.

Figure 4: Replica of the Norfolk, near Redcliff for the 215th anniversary of Flinders' exploration of Moreton Bay (https://www.redcliffeguide.com.au/news/261-matthew-flinders-in-redcliffe).

2.5 The Voyage

• Flinders and the crew set sail on the Norfolk on the 8th of July 1799. • They were told to return in six weeks and were given provisions for eleven weeks in case of mishap. • They reached Moreton Bay on the 14th of July, six days after setting sail. • Flinders sailed around the bay without making landfall until Tuesday the 16th, when, accompanied by Bungaree, he rowed across to South Point on Bribie Island. • Bungaree and Flinders encountered local men on the beach, but the contact turned awry; one of the men threw a spear across the boat and Flinders fired on the man (and another man hiding behind a tree shortly after). Flinders named the spot of the affray Skirmish Point. • Flinders then sailed towards an opening into what he thought was a river, naming it 'Pumice Stone River' (Pumicestone Passage) due to the proliferation of pumice on the banks. • After travelling some distance up the 'river', they turned around and sailed to Woody Point, Redcliffe and continued exploring the coast line. • On Thursday the 18th Flinders sailed around Mud, St Helena, Green and King Islands. • On Friday the 19th he made for Coochie Mudlo Island. • On Saturday the 20th Flinders made for the Pumice Stone River once again, with the intention of exploring the Glasshouse Mountains. • The crew repaired the sloop on the beach on the west side of Bribie Island on Tuesday the 23rd and then spent the next day fixing the ballast whilst at anchor. • On Thursday the 25th Flinders sailed the Norfolk another 2-3 miles up the 'river', trying to get as close to the Glasshouse Mountains as possible.

1799 Interpretative Heritage Trail | 10 • On the morning of Friday the 26th of July, Flinders, accompanied by Bungaree and two sailors, took the boat and rowed towards the peaks, the beginning of his inland expedition…

Figure 5: Flinders, Bungaree and the two sailors rowing towards the Glasshouse Mountains on the Friday morning (By nautical artist Don Braben (https://peterlud.wordpress.com/2018/01/27/reminders-of-peoples-past-00- matthew-flinders/).

1799 Interpretative Heritage Trail | 11 3 Sources

3.1 Flinders in Moreton Bay

There is a large and reliable body of information about Flinders' exploration of Moreton Bay in 1799.

3.1.1 Primary Sources The primary source for Flinders' journey, including his walk to Mount Beerburrum and Tibrogargan, is Flinders' own account. His was the only published account of the exploratory voyage. The most detailed account is Flinders' report to Governor John Hunter, which was edited and republished by David Collins in the second volume of his Account of the English Colony of New South Wales (1802).4 Collins was the deputy judge advocate and secretary to the first Governor of the Port Jackson penal colony, Arthur Philip. He returned to London in 1797 and published the first volume of his Account in 1798. The second volume was based primarily on Governor Hunter's reports. The section describing the inland expedition from Collins' account is provided in the appendix of this report. A contemporary manuscript by Flinders of the journey was also prepared, now held by the Mitchell Library in New South Wales. The manuscript has been transcribed for ease of reference.5 Flinders' went on to write A Voyage to Terra Australis in 1814.6 Flinders' chart from his voyage to Moreton Bay (with references to his subsequent exploration of the coast also included) was published in the book. He died the day after it was published. Flinders' account, while singular and necessarily biased, nonetheless provides intriguing information about his time in Pumicestone Passage, overland journey to Mount Beerburrum and Tibrogargan and his and his crew's interaction with Kabi Kabi people on Bribie Island and along the banks of the passage.

3.1.2 Secondary Sources Numerous secondary sources refer to Flinders' exploration of Moreton Bay. These sources can be divided into two categories: • Works for which the main purpose is to examine Flinders' journey. • Works in which Flinders' exploration is part of a broader narrative about local or Queensland history, or encounters with Indigenous Australians. Only works that are focused on Flinders' exploration of Moreton Bay were consulted for this draft report, with one exception. Consulted works are:

4 David Collins, An Account of the English Colony in New South Wales, v. 2, London, T Cadell Jun & W. Davies in the Strand, 1802. 5 Mitchell Library, State Library of New South Wales, ‘Matthew Flinders journal in the Norfolk Sloop, 1799’, Transcript C211/2. 6 Matthew Flinders, A Voyage to Terra Australis, v.1, London, G & W Nicol, 1814.

1799 Interpretative Heritage Trail | 12 • Patricia Fairhall, Matthew Flinders in Moreton Bay 1799, Redcliffe, Redcliffe Historical Society, 1988. • Margaret Guthrie, The First Tourist: Commemorating the Bicentenary of Matthew Flinders’ voyage in the sloop ‘Norfolk’ to Bribie Island and Moreton Bay, 1799-1999, Bribie Island, D and M Guthrie, 1999. • John Kerr, Flinders in Moreton Bay: A Bicentenary review 1799-1999, Brisbane, Royal Historical Society of Queensland, 2001. • Clem Lack, ‘In the Footsteps of Flinders: Memorial to Great Navigator Unveiled’, Journal of the Royal Historical Society of Queensland, v7 (1), 1963, 35-47. • J.G. Steele, The Explorers of the Moreton Bay District 1770-1830 (Brisbane, University of Queensland Press, 1972. Of the works focusing on Flinders, only two were of value: Kerr's Flinders in Moreton Bay and Lack's 'In the Footsteps of Flinders'. Lack's article is an overview of the Royal Historical Society's unveiling of a monument to Flinders in the so-named Matthew Flinders Rest Area in 1969, now located on Steve Irwin Way. Guests of the unveiling walked from Donnybrook to Mount Beerburrum and then to the rest area for the ceremony, attempting to recreate Flinders' expedition. Kerr's book is an edited collection of essays commemorating the bicentenary of Flinders' 1799 exploration of Moreton Bay. One of the essays is 'Matthew Flinders and the Glass House Mountains' by Errol C. Kentish. Kentish analyses Flinders' and subsequent accounts of the walk to the Glass House Mountains. It is a very useful chapter as the author describes the commonly-held view of Flinders' path, small details about Flinders' journal entries and map notations and offers an alternative theory for Flinders' disembarkation point. The other works are dated and do not provide any new information regarding Flinders' time in Pumicestone Passage, interactions with local people and the journey to the Glass House Mountains. Steele's book - the only work consulted that is not focused exclusively on Flinders - is useful as he annotates Flinders' account, clarifying names of islands and observations about position, flora and fauna that Flinders was necessarily unaware of at the time of the voyage.

3.2 Specific Recorded Events and Observations

In terms of 'specific recorded events and observations', Flinders' generally noted the flora, fauna, geology and topography of the area, remarking on the low and swampy nature of the country near the coast. He observed very little evidence of people or animals. He made some observations from the peak of Mount Beerburrum, noting estuaries and smoke from fires, but these were not extensive. He was especially interested as to whether the Glass House Mountains were volcanic in origin. Flinders assumed they were given the extent of pumice in the titular passage; but on closer inspection he determined that the mountains were not volcanic (they are but were not the source of the pumice). Flinders made several notes about trees and animals encountered on Bribie Island, in the Passage and other islands in Moreton Bay, including the Bribie Island Pine, dugongs, dingoes, emus, parrots, eucalypts and she-oaks. Flinders did not record any events on the trip to the mountains. He did describe contact with Kabi Kabi people in detail prior to the inland exploration - see below.

1799 Interpretative Heritage Trail | 13 3.3 Identified Landmarks

Given the nature of the country through which Flinders walked there are few landmarks to identify. The obvious ones are the Glass House Mountains - the entire purpose of his inland journey. The only other landmarks are islands in Pumicestone Passage (probably Goat Island) and creeks (probably Glass Mountain Creek and Elimbah Creek). See Figure 6 below.

3.4 Evidence of the Physical Path

Flinders did not provide detailed evidence of the path he took to the Glass House Mountains as he did not survey the route. He did, however, provide a series of statements about the route from which it is possible to generally reconstruct the path. To understand the following analysis, it is helpful to have as a reference his survey map of Moreton Bay. Note that 'Fresh Creek' is assumed to be Elimbah Creek, and 'Salt Creek' Glass Mountain Creek.

Glass Mountain Creek

Goat Island

Elimbah Creek

Figure 6: Flinders' survey of Moreton Bay (1814). The red circle indicates the general area of the trail.

The following text is divided into sections from Flinders' report (in bold) detailing the walk, and an analysis of the text with a figure indicating the approximate route Flinders probably took. In the figures supporting each analysis the blue line denotes the route from the landing to Mount Beerburrum and the green line the route from Beerburrum to Mount Tibrogargan and back to the landing point.

1799 Interpretative Heritage Trail | 14 On the following morning Mr. Flinders took the boat up a small branch that pointed toward the peaks, but afterwards, joining the same stream, formed two low mangrove islands, leaving the Glass Houses at some distance on the left hand. There are a variety of views about what Flinders is describing here. Kentish provides a good summary.7 One view is that Flinders rowed up Elimbah Creek but found the way too difficult to navigate and left the boat, walking in the general direction of Mount Tibrogargan until the party encountered Glass Mountain Creek. Another view is that Flinders and the party went up Glass Mountain Creek, rather than Elimbah, and then continued to the mountains. Kentish convincingly argues otherwise. He claims that the 'small branch … afterwards, joining the same stream' was the passage of water between Donnybrook and Goat Island - not a creek. This analysis is reinforced by two points: • The 'two low mangrove islands' are assumed to be Goat Island and the smaller island to the northwest of Goat Island. • The 'Glass Houses at some distance on the left hand' indicate that Flinders was still in the Pumicestone Passage. If he had set off up Elimbah or Glass Mountain Creek, the mountains would have been to his right.

Figure 7: Approximate landing spot (beginning of blue line). Note Goat Island and the smaller island above it; it is assumed these are the 'two low mangrove islands' Flinders described.

7 Kentish, 'Matthew Flinders and the Glasshouse Mountains', 46.

1799 Interpretative Heritage Trail | 15 About half past nine he left the boat, accompanied by two seamen and the native. Steering NW by W through a low swampy country, brought them to the side of a creek, the banks of which were low, muddy, and covered with mangroves. This creek carried them by the south west near the head of it, where the stream, passing through a rocky swamp, permitted them to wade over it. Kentish argues that Flinders landed near Donnybrook based on his analysis of the body of water Flinders initial rowed up. The party then walked towards Glass Mountain Creek. Kentish claims the party probably walked somewhere in the direction of Murphy's Road, but this road does not appear on contemporary maps.8 In any case, the party reached Glass Mountain Creek and then followed its course to the southwest 'near the head of it' before crossing over. Establishing the crossing point is difficult, as the creek winds northwest as it narrows. Given the general direction to Mount Tibrogargan, it is possible the party did not actually cross the creek, only a small tributary of it. This assumption is reinforced by the fact that Flinders did not mention a change of direction before reaching the 'crossing'. Another problem is that the shape of the creek may have also changed over time.

Figure 8: From the landing spot to Glass Mountain Creek, then southwest. The circle indicates the possible crossing point; note the tributary off the creek proper.

8 Kentish, 'Matthew Flinders and the Glasshouse Mountains', 49.

1799 Interpretative Heritage Trail | 16 Thence they steered between N 50 degrees and 60 degrees West, getting a sight of the flat-topped peak at times, which, appearing to be considerably nearer than the highest Glass-House, was that which he first meant to visit; but observing that one of the round mounts with sloping sides was still nearer, he altered his course for it; and, after walking about nine miles from the boat, reached the top. The 'flat-topped peak' is a reference to Mount Tibrogargan, the original object of the expedition. Flinders' description here is helpful, because we know that he was aiming straight for Tibrogargan, keeping it in sight as much as he could. At a certain point, however, he saw Mount Beerburrum and decided to make for it instead, probably reaching the summit (near where the lookout is today) in the early afternoon. The fact that Flinders was not aiming for Beerburrum from the beginning might have been because he preferred the height of Tibrogargan from which to gain a better view of the surrounding countryside. Flinders does not explain why he made for Beerburrum, but it may have been because of the difficulty of crossing the country proved too much and a closer objective was preferable. Flinders remarked at the end of the journey that 'a more laborious and tiresome walk of the same length would seldom be experienced', giving some indication of the conditions.

Figure 9: The trail from Glass Mountain Creek to Mount Beerburrum.

1799 Interpretative Heritage Trail | 17 From this mount, the way was over an irregular country, the higher parts of which were sandy and stony, the lower swampy as before. At about two thirds of the distance between it and the flat- topped peak (one mile and a half), they were induced by a stream of water to rest for the night, the sun being then below the trees. The party was walking in July, which means the days are shorter. One and a half miles equals about two and a half kilometres. Allowing for uneven ground and tired party members it might take just over an hour to reach the 'stream of water'. The sun was sinking below the trees at this time, so they must have left the peak around 4pm, again walking in as straight a line as possible. The party camped by the stream, which we now know as Tibrogargan Creek. The party reached Mount Tibrogargan early in the morning (they were very close). Flinders was surprised to discover that, as far as he was concerned, the mountain was not responsible for the extensive amount of pumice stone in the 'Pumice River'. He also discovered that he was not going to be able to climb the mountain. It was time now to return to the Norfolk.

Figure 10: From Mount Beerburrum to Mount Tibrogargan.

1799 Interpretative Heritage Trail | 18 As the steepness of its sides utterly forbade all idea of reaching the summit of the flat-topped peak, he directed his course downwards to the river, steering SSE to go clear of the head of the creek, and of the swamps in its vicinity; but this direction took him a great way inland; and upon his altering the course to reach the place where he had left the boat, he had to cross a broad stream of fresh water which fell in lower down, and to walk near three miles to reach the water side. No one seems to have determined what the 'broad stream of fresh water' was that the party encountered. Given his desire to avoid the swampy ground around Glass Mountain Creek, it is possible Flinders and the party encountered Elimbah Creek, which is more substantial and longer than Glass Mountain Creek. This is presumably the 'Fresh Creek' marked on his survey map. And so, the overland journey to the Glass House Mountains ended.

Figure 11: From Mount Tibrogargan to the original landing spot.

3.5 Interaction with the Kabi Kabi People

As noted above, Flinders and the overland party did not meet with any local people on the trip to Mount Beerburrum and Tibrogargan, although we can be reasonably certain the party was observed during their journey. Flinders, Bungaree and the crew did, however, meet Kabi Kabi people on Bribie Island and along the land side of the Pumicestone Passage. For the most part Bungaree negotiated the initial contact and was sometimes the only person allowed in proximity to local people, especially after the affray at Skirmish Point.

1799 Interpretative Heritage Trail | 19 Examples of interaction include: • The very first contact with local people at the so-called Skirmish Point on Bribie Island. • Flinders observed Kabi Kabi housing (without the inhabitants present) and he took several items, including a shield, fish nets and bag. • The men from Skirmish Point tried to encourage Flinders to meet with them for an exchange of goods on Flinders' return to the Pumicestone Passage, but he sailed past, concerned that he might be ambushed. • Bungaree met with two men, who hailed the crew, on the beach a further 6 miles up the Passage (presumably Bribie Island again). Flinders tried to meet with them while carrying his musket, but they made it very clear he was not to come any close unless he put down his gun. • They were hailed by another man, further down the river. The man had a spear in his hand and was accompanied by two women and several children. According to Flinders the women appeared to be trying to persuade the man against a rash action, retiring to the bushes when Flinders approached in the sloop. He also gestured vociferously for Flinders to put down his musket. • While undertaking repairs in the Passage, three local men appeared, and Bungaree went to meet them 'in his usual undaunted manner'. Once again, they wouldn't let Flinders approach until he put down his musket. While only Bungaree and Flinders interacted with the men, they acted 'lively, dancing and singing in concert in a pleasing manner'. However, the other crew appear to have come closer, and the men grew alarmed. Three of the crew, who were Scottish, 'were desired to dance a reel, but, for want of musick, they made a very bad performance'; the local men were not impressed, contemplating the dance 'without much amusement or curiosity'. Clearly the action at Skirmish Point had caused the local people to be cautious, but this did not appear to quell their interest in the party. The man with the spear who gestured for Flinders and the crew to approach may have been demanding a contest to account for Flinders' earlier attack at Skirmish Point, or even for shooting swans and other animals without permission. The incident of the dancing and singing is fascinating and provides a unique insight into the first contact between the British sailors and the Kabi Kabi. Flinders' observations are brief and necessarily biased and incomplete. Nonetheless, they form the earliest description we have of the Kabi Kabi People. With careful analysis, and in consultation with the Kabi Kabi, there is certainly an opportunity to explore the dimension of contact in more detail in the trail, should the project proceed.

3.6 The Other Members of the Party

Flinders does not provide any information about the crew members that accompanied him and Bungaree on the expedition, except when some of the crew, identified as Scottish, attempted a jig for the locals. There is some (although limited) information about Bungaree, as he is a famous figure in the early colonial history of New South Wales (see the previous chapter for a summary).

1799 Interpretative Heritage Trail | 20 4 Maps

4.1 The Trail Map

Given the general nature of Flinders' description of the journey any estimation of the route - all or part - must remain conceptual. The only way we could be certain is if Flinders had surveyed the route, which he did not. However, the mention of landmarks such as the creeks and Flinders' estimation of distance travelled (which seems accurate) allow us to be reasonably certain of the route. The only disagreement in the various sources is where the party disembarked from the boat. See Figure 12 below for a snapshot of the estimated trail.

4.2 Proportion of the Trail in Sunshine Coast Council area

Approximately half of the trail is in the Sunshine Coast Council local government area, including Mount Beerburrum and Mount Tibrogargan. The disembarkation point and initial route along Glass Mountain Creek are in the Moreton Bay Regional Council local government area. See Figure 13 below. Most of the trail is in State Forest and National Parks, with only small sections in Free Hold land. See Figure 14 below.

4.3 Geological, Land Types and Landscape

Figures 15, 16, 17 and 18 illustrate the contours, hydrography, geology and vegetation found along the trail. The contours map is interesting as it reflects Flinders' comments about the terrain: The country through which they had passed was low, swampy, and brushy, and in the latter part of the way somewhat uneven. In those parts which were swampy, the surface was full of winding holes, where the water, lodging, rendered walking both difficult and tiresome. The places that were somewhat higher were either sandy or stony. On the map below one can see how the journey begins in swampy terrain and then as the party draws closer to Mount Beerburrum the terrain becomes more uneven and higher. See Figure 15. The hydrography map is also interesting. A small tributary (drainage line) draws away from Glass Mountain Creek near the point where the creek proper begins to wind in a northwest direction. It is possible this is the 'rocky swamp' that Flinders crossed, thinking it the head of the creek (which is in fact much further to the northwest). See Figure 16 below. Moreover, the Geology map shows a change from Estuarine/Flood Plain to Clay/Silt/Sand/Gravel at the potential crossing point. See Figure 17 below. The path to and from the mountains consists primarily of plantation pine and built-up areas (non- remnant). There are, however, some sections of remnant vegetation, primarily along Glass Mountain Creek. See Figure 18 below.

1799 Interpretative Heritage Trail | 21 4.4 Cultural Features

4.4.1 Indigenous The Department of Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander Partnerships (DATSIP) Cultural Heritage Database and Register was searched for this report. See Figure 19 below. There are few recorded Indigenous cultural features on the trail. There is a small concentration of shell middens and artefact scatters near the approximate beginning of the trail and - of course - the Glass House Mountains, which are significant to the Kabi Kabi and Jinibara People. These features could complement the trail, even if they are not specifically visited as part of it. The Kabi Kabi component of the trail should be given as much emphasis as Flinders', which is an accurate and satisfying approach.

4.4.2 Non-Indigenous There are several national, state and local heritage places located in Beerburrum. There are no other non-Indigenous heritage places in the Sunshine Coast Council local government area on the trail. These sites are not mapped in this report. Table 1: Non-Indigenous cultural heritage sites. Place National State Local Glasshouse Mountains ✓ ✓ Anzac Avenue Memorial Trees ✓ ✓ Beerburrum Bakery (Old) ✓ Beerburrum Cemetery ✓ Beerburrum Forestry Station Barracks ✓ Beerburrum School of Arts Hall ✓ Matthew Flinders Park ✓

Most of the places in Beerburrum are associated with the Soldier Settlement Scheme in the early 1920s. These sites do not complement the trail, although they are interesting for other reasons. The Glass House Mountains are obviously the major landmarks. The extensive State forests along the trail may provide a complementary element to the trail, given Flinders' descriptions of the flora on his expedition and the long history of State forests in Queensland and especially the Sunshine Coast. The Matthew Flinders Park is an obvious local heritage site that complements the trail. This is the park that the Royal Historical Society of Queensland unveiled a plaque to Flinders' trek in 1969, and on which members of the unveiling party walked from Donnybrook to the park. The park provides an opportunity to examine how we have remembered Flinders over time and an ideal concluding spot for the trail.

1799 Interpretative Heritage Trail | 22 Figure 12: Approximate route taken by Flinders. The blue line indicates the inland route; the green return to the Norfolk.

1799 Interpretative Heritage Trail | 23 Figure 13: The trail in relation to local government boundaries.

1799 Interpretative Heritage Trail | 24 Figure 14: Cadastral map.

1799 Interpretative Heritage Trail | 25 Figure 15: Contour map.

1799 Interpretative Heritage Trail | 26 Figure 16: Hydrography map.

1799 Interpretative Heritage Trail | 27 Figure 17: Geology map.

1799 Interpretative Heritage Trail | 28 Figure 18: Vegetation map.

1799 Interpretative Heritage Trail | 29 Figure 19: DATSIP cultural heritage features.

1799 Interpretative Heritage Trail | 30 5 Conclusions

5.1 Conclusions

• There is a good amount of primary and secondary material regarding Flinders' exploration of Moreton Bay, including his inland expedition to Mount Beerburrum and Mount Tibrogargan. • We know a reasonable amount about Bungaree, but virtually nothing about the remainder of the crew. • Flinders did not survey the inland route, so it is not possible to reconstruct it accurately. • However, his descriptions of landmarks, general directions and other related information allows us to determine his likely path, including the point at which he landed in the Pumicestone Passage. • For example, we know with a good degree of certainty that the inland expedition began around Donnybrook; that the party encountered Glass House Creek; and then turned inland, heading first towards Mount Tibrogargan before changing course and reaching Mount Beerburrum. • Our ability to determine the path is further enhanced by several instances of thematic mapping, especially hydrography, geology and contours. • The information Flinders provided in his report to the Governor, John Hunter, also provides descriptions of his and his party's interaction with the Kabi Kabi People and the flora and fauna of the area. However, Flinders encountered no people and very few animals on his inland trek - the interactions were on Bribie Island and in the Pumicestone Passage more generally. • Flinders noted some key landmarks, principally creeks, estuaries and the Glasshouse Mountains. However, his walk to Beerburrum and Tibrogargan was largely uneventful and Flinders did not add much to his earlier observations in the Pumicestone Passage or Moreton Bay more generally. • Approximately 1/3 to 1/2 of the trail is in Moreton Bay Regional Council local government area. • There are some Indigenous and non-Indigenous cultural heritage features in proximity to the trail that may complement it. There is certainly enough material and evidence to warrant continued investigation of a trail.

1799 Interpretative Heritage Trail | 31 References Cited

Clem Lack, ‘In the Footsteps of Flinders: Memorial to Great Navigator Unveiled’, Journal of the Royal Historical Society of Queensland, v7 (1), 1963, 35-47. David Collins, An Account of the English Colony in New South Wales, v. 2, London, T Cadell Jun & W. Davies in the Strand, 1802. Errol C. Kentish, 'Matthew Flinders and the Glass House Mountains' in John Kerr, Flinders in Moreton Bay: A Bicentenary review 1799-1999, Brisbane, Royal Historical Society of Queensland, 2001. H. M. Cooper, 'Flinders, Matthew (1774–1814)', Australian Dictionary of Biography, National Centre of Biography, Australian National University, http://adb.anu.edu.au/biography/flinders-matthew- 2050/text2541, published first in hardcopy 1966, accessed online 14 March 2019. J. G. Steele, The Explorers of the Moreton Bay District 1770-1830 (Brisbane, University of Queensland Press, 1972. J.G. Steele, The Explorers of the Moreton Bay District 1770-1830 (Brisbane, University of Queensland Press, 1972. J. J. Auchmuty, 'Hunter, John (1737–1821)', Australian Dictionary of Biography, National Centre of Biography, Australian National University, http://adb.anu.edu.au/biography/hunter-john- 2213/text2873, published first in hardcopy 1966, accessed online 14 March 2019. John Kerr, Flinders in Moreton Bay: A Bicentenary review 1799-1999, Brisbane, Royal Historical Society of Queensland, 2001. Margaret Guthrie, The First Tourist: Commemorating the Bicentenary of Matthew Flinders’ voyage in the sloop ‘Norfolk’ to Bribie Island and Moreton Bay, 1799-1999, Bribie Island, D and M Guthrie, 1999. Matthew Flinders, A Voyage to Terra Australis, v.1, London, G & W Nicol, 1814. Mitchell Library, State Library of New South Wales, ‘Matthew Flinders journal in the Norfolk Sloop, 1799’, Transcript C211/2. Patricia Fairhall, Matthew Flinders in Moreton Bay 1799, Redcliffe, Redcliffe Historical Society, 1988.

1799 Interpretative Heritage Trail | 32 Appendix 1 - Flinders' Report in Collin's Account of the English Colony

Having weighed the anchors (Thursday the 25th) they turned two or three miles further up the river in the afternoon, for the convenience of being nearer to the Glass-House peaks, which he now intended to visit. In the deepest parts of the river, there were from four to six fathoms water; but the channel was much divided, and narrow. They anchored near that place on the western shore where the man who had a family with him had called to them; and at this time they saw a fire, and heard several younger female voices in the same place. On the following morning Mr. Flinders took the boat up a small branch that pointed toward the peaks, but afterwards, joining the same stream, formed two low mangrove islands, leaving the Glass Houses at some distance on the left hand. About half past nine he left the boat, accompanied by two seamen and the native. Steering NW by W through a low swampy country, brought them to the side of a creek, the banks of which were low, muddy, and covered with mangroves.10 This creek carried them by the south west near the head of it, where the stream, passing through a rocky swamp, permitted them to wade over it. Thence they steered between N 50 degrees and 60 degrees West, getting a sight of the flat-topped peak at times, which, appearing to be considerably nearer than the highest Glass-House, was that which he first meant to visit; but observing that one of the round mounts with sloping sides11 was still nearer, he altered his course for it; and, after walking about nine miles from the boat, reached the top. The country through which they had passed was low, swampy, and brushy, and in the latter part of the way somewhat uneven. In those parts which were swampy, the surface was full of winding holes, where the water, lodging, rendered walking both difficult and tiresome. The places that were somewhat higher were either sandy or stony, and in these the grass tree (or gum rush) abounded; but, in general, the trees were the same as before mentioned, except that the pine was not observed to be among them. The mount was a pile of stones of all sizes, mostly loose near the surface. The decayed vegetable matter that was lodged in the cavities produced a thick covering of long, but rather spindly grass, very fit for thatch from its length. The ascent was difficult, and similar to that up Mount Direction, which stands on the east bank of the Derwent river in Van Diemen's Land. The trees upon the mount were the same as on the level ground, but taller and more straight. From the summit of this mount, the view of the bay and neighbouring country was very extensive. The uppermost part of the bay appeared at S 24 degrees E and most probably communicated with a line of water which was visible at S 12 degrees E where there were several distinct columns of smoke. This last bearing, which Mr. Flinders apprehended to be near the head of the river, he was not permitted to enter with the sloop, from the intricacy of the channel, and the shortness of the time which remained for his excursion. Near the head of Pumice-Stone river there was a large spread of water, bearing S 72 degrees E and seeming to divide off into small branches. There were other small branches falling into this below, the whole forming into channels, which, ramifying through the low country, drew off whatever water might collect within the ridge of the back mountains. These appeared to be within the distance of

10 Believed to be Glass Mountain Creek. 11 Mount Beerburrum.

1799 Interpretative Heritage Trail | 33 between ten and twenty miles, lying in a north and south direction; and the intermediate country to be nearly as low as that which they had walked over. There was a large smoke near the foot of them. From this mount, the way was over an irregular country, the higher parts of which were sandy and stony, the lower swampy as before. At about two thirds of the distance between it and the flat-topped peak (one mile and a half), they were induced by a stream of water to rest for the night12, the sun being then below the trees. At seven the next morning they found themselves under the steep cliffs of the flat-topped peak.13 The stone of which this was composed was of a whitish cast, close-grained and hard, but not heavy. It was not stratified, but there were many fissures in it. At a little distance from the peak there were some pieces of a reddish-coloured stone, and some small pieces of granite scattered about. Mr. Flinders was somewhat surprised at not meeting with any volcanic appearances, as the pumice stone in the river, and the situation of these stupendous peaks, standing upon low flat ground, led him to form some anxious expectations upon that head. But it must be observed, that, although he could not distinguish any traces of scoria, lava, basaltes, or other igneous remains, yet they might still exist, more especially about the high Glass-House, which he did not visit. As the steepness of its sides utterly forbade all idea of reaching the summit of the flat-topped peak, he directed his course downwards to the river, steering SSE to go clear of the head of the creek, and of the swamps in its vicinity; but this direction took him a great way inland; and upon his altering the course to reach the place where he had left the boat, he had to cross a broad stream of fresh water which fell in lower down, and to walk near three miles to reach the water side. He, however, hit the place with unexpected readiness, and was very acceptably presented with a black swan, which the people in the boat had caught, and which was at the moment ready for satisfying the appetites of his party, which were not trifling, for a more laborious and tiresome walk of the same length would seldom be experienced. The traces of men and animals were very few, and but rarely met with in the upper parts of this excursion; but Mr. Flinders found a new species of pheasant, about the size of an English magpie. The emu was not seen, although its voice had been so often heard, as to induce him to suppose that bird must be numerous. The more inland part of the country was something higher and better than in the neighbourhood of the salt water; but no where did he meet with any that was calculated for the production of wheat. Having reached the sloop in the evening, as soon as the ebb tide permitted, the following morning, Sunday the 28th, they got under weigh to turn down the river, with the wind at SSE. There were many natives on the shore abreast of them, who seemed particularly anxious to be visited, dancing and singing to attract attention, and express their own good-will; and, when they could not prevail upon our people to land. followed the sloop along the banks, their hopes seeming to revive by the trips which in tacking they occasionally made towards the shore.

12 Tibrogargan Creek. 13 Mount Tibrogargan.

1799 Interpretative Heritage Trail | 34