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Efficient Modeling of Beach Evolution EFFICIENT MODELING OF BEACH EVOLUTION BY Mohamed A. Dabees A thesis submitted to the Department of Civil Engineering in conforrnity with the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy. Queen's University Kingston, Ontario, Canada Copyright O dabees 2000 National Library Bibliothèque nationale du Canada Acquisitions and Acquisitions et Bibliographie Services services bibliographiques 395 Wellington Street 395. nie Wellington OtîawaON K1A ON4 Ottawa ON K1A ON4 Canada Canada Your file Votre référence Our file Norre rdfdrence The author has granted a non- L'auteur a accordé une licence non exclusive licence allowing the exclusive permettant à la National Library of Canada to Bibliothèque nationale du Canada de reproduce, loan, distribute or sell reproduire, prêter, distribuer ou copies of this thesis in microform, vendre des copies de cette thèse sous paper or electronic formats. la forme de microfiche/fïlm, de reproduction sur papier ou sur format électronique. The author retains ownership of the L'auteur conserve la propriété du copyright in this thesis. Neither the droit d'auteur qui protège cette thèse. thesis nor substantid extracts ftom it Ni la thèse ni des extraits substantiels may be printed or othemise de celle-ci ne doivent être imprimés reproduced without the author's ou autrement reproduits sans son permission. autorisation. Abstract Beach evolution modeling is a challenge because coastai processes are complex and input data is either scarce or contains large uncertainties. Long-term prediction of beach evolution is an essential tool for effective coastal management, environmental protection and sustainable development. Several categories of nurnericai models of coastal morphology have been developed, ranging from sophisticated 3-D modeIs to simple 1-D models for idedized conditions. A practical mode1 provides reliable predictions, compatibility with the quality of the input data, and reasonable execution time. This study describes the development of a practical beach evolution modeling system with wide applicability for complex beach system configurations. The modeling system consists of two models, ONELDE, a shoreline change model and, NLINE, a contour line model for predicting the 3-D bathyrnetry changes. The thesis discusses the formulation of the rnodeling system and its validation through numerous model tests and case studies. The utility and benefits of the developed modeling system were emphasized throuph diverse case studies. The case studies were chosen dong the Atlantic, Pacific, Mediterranean, and Lake Michigan coastlines. In addition to covenng various beach characteristics and wave climates, the case studies successfully modeled a variety of coastal structures and complex boundary conditions. Acknowledgments I wish to express my sincere thanks to Prof. J.W. Karnphuis who supervised my research and guided me towards completion of this study with his valuable advice, enlightening discussions, and encouragement. 1 greatly appreciate his continuous guidance even during his sabbatical leave; he was always interested and wiIling to assist me throughout my research. 1 am sincerely grateful for this vaIued opportunity to work closely with him and Iearn from his distinpished expertise in coastal engineering, research, and teaching. 1would like to extend my gratitude to al1 those who provided me with the necessary data for the case studies covered in this research. Thanks are due to Prof. J. Richard Weggel of Drexel University, USA, for the data of Sea Isle City beaches, the Egyptian Shore Protection Authority for Ras-El-bar data, Mt. Michael Allen of Queensland govemment, Australia, for the Tweed beaches data, and Prof. Kevin Hall of Queen's University for the South Fox Island data. 1 would like to thank Anna Vaalasranta, from Helsinki University of Technology, for her help with the Tweed beaches case study during her surnrner intemship at Queen's University. 1 am also grateful to my colleagues, Gordon Thomson, Paul Tschirky and Stuart Seabrook for proof reading parts of this thesis. My thanks are also extended to al1 my friends at Queen's University who made my graduate school years rewarding and enjoyable. 1 wish to thank my parents for their support and understanding and a special note of appreciation to Tomoka Ishizu for her positive support and motivation throughout the course of this study. Finally, 1 would Like to acknowledge that this study was supported by the Natural Science and Engineering Research Council of Canada, and by funds from Ontario Graduate Scholarships and the School of Graduate Studies, Queen's University. Table of Contents EFFICIENT MODELING OF BEACH EVOLUTION LIST OF TABLES..................................................................................................................................... VII LIST OF FIGURES ....................... ,, ........................................................................................................ VIII LIST OF SYMBOLS.................................................................................................................................. XI CHAPTER 1 INTRODUCTION ........................................................................................................................................ 1 1-1 NEEDFOR BEACH EVOLUTION MODEXS ............................................................................................. 1 1-2 MOTIVATION..................................................................................................................................... 2 1-3 SCOPEOFTHE STUDY ........................................................................................................................ 3 1-4 THESISSTRUCTURE ........................................................................................................................... 4 CHAPTER 2 LITERATURE REVIEW ............................................................................................................................5 2.1 OVERVEWOF BEACH CHANGE MODELS .............................................................................................. 5 2.1.1 Beach profle nrodels.................................................................................................................... 6 2.1.2 Shoreline change rnodels ............................................................................................................. 6 2.1.3 3-0 beach evolrition models ......................................................................................................... 8 2.2 ONE-LLNETHEORY OFSHORELINE CHANGE......................................................................................... 11 2.2.1 Backgrorind ................................................................................................................................ II 2.2.2 Analyrical nzodels of shoreline change ............................................................................... 13 2.2.3 Nunzerical Solutions of the One-line theory............................................................................... 16 2.2.4 Capabiliries and limitations of rzunzerical rnodels of sizoreline change ..................................... 30 CHAPTER 3 DEVELOPMENT OF THE SHORELINE CHANGE MODEL ONELINE......................................... 32 3.1 MODEL DEVELOPMENT DESCRlPTION .............................................................. 32 3.1.1 Cross-shore sediment transpo rl ................................................................................................. 32 3.1.2 Longshore sediment transport ................................................................................................... 37 3.1.3 Model stntctrire .......................................................................................................................... 37 3.1.4 Borindav conditions .................................................................................................................. 39 3.1.5 Representation of coastal structures .......................................................................................... 41 3.2 MODELVALIDATION .......................................................................................................................... 48 3.2.1 Benchnrarking ............................................................................................................................ 48 3.2.2. Model Tests............................................................................................................................... 52 3.3 S~MARY.......................................................................................................................................... 54 CHAPTER 4 COMBINED REFRACTION-DIEFRACTIONFORMULATION IN THE VICINITY OF BFUZAKWATERS....................................................................................................................................... 56 4.1 BACKGROUND.................................................................................................................................... 56 4.2 METHODOLOGY................................................................................................................................. 57 4.2.1 Combined diffiacrion-refiaction cakrclations........................................................... 58 4.3 APPLICATIONFOR SINGLEB REAKWATERS.......................................................................................... 63 4.3.1 Breakwarer geornetry ................................................................................................................
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