Asilomar State Beach and Conference Grounds

STATE BEACH AND CONFERENCE GROUNDS asilomarVISITOR GUIDE ISSUE 14 Welcome! © CA State Parks

On behalf of California State Parks Thank you for enabling State Parks and our concessionaire partner, to preserve Asilomar for generations Aramark, we warmly welcome you to to come! Asilomar State Beach & Conference © Make the Most of Your J Grounds. One of the most unique a c o b Asilomar Visit parks in our state, Asilomar’s location P e a Whether you are here to meet and is unparalleled. Situated at the tip of rl confer with colleagues, reaffirm the Monterey Peninsula, Asilomar’s family ties, or are visiting as an guest rooms are spread throughout overnight guest, there are many the native Monterey pine and coast Eric Abma, ways to experience Asilomar’s live oak forest, all within view and Asilomar State Park Superintendent unique “spirit of place”: walking distance of the majestic • Take a self-guided tour of Pacific Ocean. Julia Morgan’s Asilomar. Self-guided tours are signature Arts and Crafts style of available on your cell phone or architecture makes up the Historic from a brochure. Brochures are Core of this property, immersing found at the State Parks Desk in guests in the sense of place the Phoebe Hearst Social Hall, or experienced by Young Women’s from our website: https://www. Christian Association (YWCA) parks.ca.gov/asilomar - follow the campers of the early 1900s. “Self-Guided Tours” link. Asilomar State Beach and • Get to know Asilomar with State Conference Grounds was purchased Park staff on “The Asilomar by the State of California in 1956 Ramble”, a tour covering many with the intent of operating a topics unique to Asilomar, financially sustainable park – a goal including its beginnings as in which it has succeeded. Our the YWCA’s first West Coast partnership with Aramark enables conference grounds, star Asilomar to maintain financial architect Julia Morgan’s work independence: operating entirely here, the natural environment, free of state funding. Through and Asilomar’s history as a lodging costs and purchases at California State Park. Asilomar 100% of the park’s budget © CA State Parks • Get Social! Tag, Tweet, Post, Pin, is generated by you, the park visitor.

2 etc. Asilomar… We would like to be part of your adventure! Please include Asilomar in your social life: Contents https://www.facebook.com/ CaliforniaStateParks https://twitter.com/CAStateParks https://www.youtube.com/user/ CaliforniaStateParks

https://castateparks.wordpress. © CA State Parks, Peter Nichols com/ https://www.pinterest.com/ castateparks/asilomar-state- Welcome 2 Bird Life of Asilomar 24 beach/ Aramark 4 10 Things to Know 28 #InventYourAdventure YWCA Builds Asilomar 6 Beach Mobility 29 Restoration 11 Cover Artist 30 Architecture 13 Short Drives 31 Habitats 16

• Stretch your legs! Walking or we would like to hear from you: running routes are plentiful California State Parks at Asilomar. Enjoy the raised [email protected] vistas from the Asilomar Dunes Asilomar State Beach Office, Boardwalk, or head across the 804 Crocker Avenue, street, to find the sandy shores Pacific Grove, CA 93950. of Asilomar State Beach, or north Aramark collects guest survey on the Asilomar Coast trail which cards, which are available from meanders along the rocky tide the Park Store, the Front Desk, pools and quiet coves. and the Crocker Dining Hall. This special length of coast is Online surveys are available at a California State Beach, and the MyGuestExperience.com off shore waters are protected by We are pleased to have you here California as a State Marine Reserve, and hope you enjoy your stay! as well as Federal regulation as Eric Abma, Superintendent the Monterey Bay National Marine Asilomar State Beach and Sanctuary. These protections ensure Conference Grounds marine life is abundant here, so keep your eyes peeled! On a regular basis you can see Sea Otters, Gray Whales, Invertebrates (in the tide pools), and if you are lucky you may spot Orca or Blue Whales! Help Make Asilomar Better! Your ideas and feedback play a major role in determining just how successful we are at Asilomar State

3 aramark © Aramark

Aramark would like to welcome you to the Monterey Peninsula and Asilomar State Beach and Conference Grounds. In September 2009, California State Parks awarded Aramark the concession to operate the © Aramark Asilomar Conference Grounds. Aramark is proud to include this and the globe. Our daily operations “Refuge by the Sea” among the have been assessed for their Enos Esquivel treasured properties it manages General Manager, Asilomar Conference Grounds impact on the environment and throughout the United States methods for reducing impact have including State Parks, National our core mission of delivering been put into place. Some of our Parks and Forests, cultural experiences that enrich and greatest conservation needs are in attractions and conference nourish the lives of our visitors. the areas of energy, water, and solid centers. Environmental Sustainability waste management. In California, Aramark also has Environmental sustainability Here is how we have addressed the privilege of operating at Hearst is at the core of what we do at some of these issues in recent Castle - another unit of California Asilomar. We recognize that years and plan for continued State Parks. In 2016, Aramark operating our business in a way progress in overall conservation. was awarded the management that limits negative impact on the Energy Conservation – The contract for Yosemite National environment is critically important property is currently undergoing Park. In partnership with its to the site, to Asilomar, the upgrades to energy efficient clients, Aramark seeks to Monterey Peninsula community, LED lighting with a total of 85% enhance the guest experience converted so far. by offering industry-leading Water Conservation – The hospitality, conference services, introduction of Water City - a state environmental stewardship and of the art water recycling system, corporate social responsibility. was installed in 2016, allowing Here at Asilomar State Beach and reclamation of up to 75% of the Conference Grounds, Aramark staff water used for housekeeping directly supports California State operations. Parks in its mission to preserve Solid Waste Management – and protect, while we focus on We have a robust composting © Aramark 4 program, Clean the World soap recycling program, and community outreach events. You can also help us meet our goals by: • Using the trash and recycling bins provided on property • Turning off the faucet while washing your hands and brushing teeth • Turning out the lights and turning off the heat when leaving your guest or meeting © Aramark room Aramark and CA State Parks employees at Asilomar State Beach and • Walking or biking around the Conference Grounds Park Unit property rather than driving make seafood choices for the public 365 days a year. Part of your car healthy oceans. As a Seafood the California State Parks mission Let us know if you see additional Watch Partner, Asilomar’s menu is to “provide for the health, areas where we can make recommendations indicate which inspiration and education of the environmental improvements. seafood items are “Best Choices” people of California.” Asilomar is Healthy Foods or “Good Alternatives”; menus the perfect place to relax, recharge In the spirit of encouraging healthy do not include items to “Avoid”. and renew. Some of the activities people and a healthy planet, The earth’s oceans have supplied you can enjoy at Asilomar include Aramark chefs work hard to humans with food and have walking the scenic Natural Dunes ensure that we focus on providing created a livelihood for millions Boardwalk, relaxing in front of the organic, seasonal and local of people for thousands of years. Social Hall’s granite rock fireplace, produce and proteins (meat, fish At Aramark we are working with or learning Asilomar’s stories and dairy). Guests can expect the Seafood Watch to do our part on a guided State Park tour. To freshest ingredients prepared to to contribute to better ocean learn more about all there is to retain the food’s maximum flavor management practices. do at Asilomar, please visit www. and optimum health benefits. Healthy Mind and Body VisitAsilomar.com. —Contributed by the Aramark Our meals offer goodness and As a unit of California State team at Asilomar State Beach and high quality - a priority for a good Parks, Asilomar State Beach and Conference Grounds diet. Our cooking style includes Conference Grounds is open to fish and meats as a main staple, incorporating vegetables, fruits, whole grains, seeds, nuts and legumes as often as possible. Our focus is on balance and moderation to provide healthy meals. This not only applies to the quantity of food served, but also to the flavorings incorporated during preparation. We emphasize a cooking style that promotes nourishing foods. The Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch Program helps consumers and businesses © Aramark

Phoebe A. Hearst Social Hall 5 ywca builds skrae Ptat S Ptat skrae asilomar © CA Phoebe Apperson Hearst Social Hall Entry, c. 1915 Asilomar, a National YWCA’s ultimate aim was “to help ocean, mountains, and forests, Historic Landmark girls to be physically, mentally, and served as the conference site The Young Women’s Christian spiritually fit.” By the early years until 1911 when Phoebe Hearst Association created Asilomar of the twentieth century, YWCA invited the group to hold the in 1913 as a conference ground branches were located in every 1912 conference at her estate for its Pacific Coast chapters, for major American city and on nearly in Pleasanton. Mrs. Hearst, long like-minded social, educational every college campus in California. considered a “fairy godmother” to and religious organizations, and Virtually every branch included an the Pacific Coast Branch, provided as a vacation camp for families, employment bureau. The YWCA the 1912 “Hacienda Conference” girls and women. Purchased by operated more than 100 boarding with a hilltop campground the State of California in 1956, houses that offered recreation, equipped with tents and iron beds Asilomar became a National education, meals and the company for more than 350 young women. Historic Landmark in 1987 for of other young women. The YWCA She stocked a huge dining tent, its extraordinary Arts and Crafts sought to promote “wholesome and even built roads up the hillside architecture and “as a monumental recreation and social enjoyment” to smooth the way for the fleet of achievement in the context of the for young women. To this end, autos that shuttled girls from the career of Julia Morgan”, the first their annual meetings were often train depot. woman awarded the American held in campgrounds and other Mrs. Hearst invited some of Institute of Architecture’s Gold outdoor settings. the Bay Area’s most influential Medal. The Hotel Capitola in Capitola, women to hear firsthand about Young Women’s Christian California, within easy reach of the the YWCA’s work and the plan to Association (YWCA) build a permanent conference center. Hearst paid the cost of the Founded on the East Coast in the food and equipment while the second half of the 19th century, girls’ conference fees were added the Young Women’s Christian to the fund set aside to purchase a Association grew alongside the permanent camp. women’s movement. Inspired YWCA’s West Coast leadership by late nineteenth-century had negotiated a deal with a Evangelical Protestantism, some Monterey Peninsula real estate of the women of the YWCA fought developer, Pacific Improvement for women’s suffrage, educational Company (PIC). In spite of the rights, better working conditions,

© CA State Parks objections of several members, and safer and cleaner cities. The YWCA Summer Camp Uniform, c. 1918 who feared that Pacific Grove’s 6 climate might be too harsh for iron beds, and electric lights The opening conference began young women, the PIC agreed to and showers. Girls could open Sunday, August 3, 1913. Classes and deed the YWCA with 30 acres of the drapes and slide their beds lectures – on topics ranging from land “facing the ocean” between partway onto the veranda to enjoy the international work of the YWCA the famed Seventeen-Mile Drive the fresh ocean air. to the power of the American and the Pacific Ocean. The YWCA The First National Summer common schools – were scheduled agreed to make $30,000 in Conference Camp, 1913 over the next 10 days. While much improvements within 10 years, and of the week was devoted to Bible Asilomar became part of a national would pay one dollar per acre per study and training for missionary system of conference facilities annum in ‘taxes’. work, girls were encouraged to operated by the YWCA and the The YWCA wasted little time bring a nice dress for visiting first that it owned outright. Initially, in hiring Bay Area architect Julia Monterey and Carmel, and a pair the grounds were to be known as Morgan, who had connections to of tramping shoes for hiking the “Guardamar,” but that was a name the Hearst family and was then coast. Afternoons were free and no one seemed to like. Phoebe completing plans for the YWCA every night the girls enjoyed Hearst suggested that the girls building in Oakland. Surveyors bonfires. The highlight of the week name the grounds and proposed a went to work in February 1913, was the pageant, “The Ministering contest to excite interest. Contest and by June a site had been of the Gift,” starring 400 costumed rules insisted that the name be cleared and work begun on the girls and the Monterey Presidio something “Californian, preferably Administration Building, later Band. Spanish, and must suggest either named the Phoebe Apperson the peculiar natural charm of the Asilomar Hearst Social Hall. When the girls place, or the purpose for which YWCA’s leadership expected arrived in early August, they were it is to be used, or, better still, Asilomar to pay its own way, but greeted by a huge, round dining both.” Helen Salisbury, a Stanford also sought donations to fulfill tent shipped in by Mrs. Hearst, and University graduate, won a five- an ambitious building plan. temporary tent houses. The tent dollar gold coin for her winning Armed with large sums from houses had solid redwood frames entry. She combined the Spanish wealthy philanthropists, including shingled roofs, canvas drapes word asilo, which means haven Mrs. Hearst, Ellen Browning for walls, hardwood floors, and a or refuge, with mar, meaning sea, Scripps, Olivia and Catherine veranda to ensure “a neighborly to form “Asilomar” – a refuge by Stokes, as well as donations from atmosphere.” Each had fifteen the sea. several thousand ordinary girls, rooms equipped with a pair of © CA State Parks YWCA Pacific Field Committee, 1913. Phoebe Hearst, fifth from right wearing Chinese garment. 7 to “Pirates”. The Stuck-ups and and Pirates have become some of the most memorable characters in the history of Asilomar. Today, their stories and photos hang in the hallways of Stuck-up Inn and Pirates’ Den lodges. A Resort by the Sea In the Depression years of the early 1930s, the YWCA found its donors less willing and able to fund Asilomar’s deficits. Short of cash, the YWCA’s National Board closed Asilomar, and put it on the

© CA State Parks market. Nevertheless, demand for Asilomar Tent Houses, 1923. Dickinson Collection. Asilomar’s facilities was still strong. Winifred Heard of Berkeley, who the YWCA expanded the grounds Asilomar, volunteer opportunities had been involved with Asilomar and added several new buildings. were offered to college-age since 1928, used her connections in By 1920, they had added twenty YWCA members. In exchange the Bay Area’s spiritual community, acres and several Julia Morgan- for room and board, the young to organize several conferences designed buildings: Grace Dodge women were involved in camp that not only helped pay for Chapel-Auditorium, Visitors leadership activities along with maintenance and upkeep but also Lodge, the Guest Inn, the Health chores such as washing dishes, helped shape Asilomar’s future. Cottage, Class Hall, Crocker Dining mopping and sweeping floors Despite Heard’s efforts, the YWCA Hall, Stuck-Up Inn, as well as a during conferences. Despite the warehouse and a maintenance hard and time-consuming work, shop. only a few positions were available To pay for its annual operations each summer, and the supply of the YWCA charged the girls $1.50 young women often exceeded the per day for room and board (about demand. $37.00 in 2017) and leased the Initial dismay and vocal grounds to groups sympathetic reluctance to menial tasks earned to its cause. The Young Men’s the 1913 recruits the nickname, Christian Association and the ‘Stuck-Ups’. It was a title gamely Epworth League began holding embraced, and, in 1918 would their annual conferences at grace the name of their Julia Asilomar starting in 1914. The Morgan-designed lodge. California Press Association made In 1922, the YWCA hired young an annual excursion to Asilomar, men to assist at camp. They did as did the California Grange, the some of the heavy lifting required Chinese Student Association, the at Asilomar by serving as porters, Japanese Student Association and bus boys, and dishwashers. Known many others. In the winter of 1920- as the “Pirates,” they became 21 Asilomar opened at other times central to an annual conference during the year, in part to keep up tradition of dressing in pirate with the demand, but also to keep costumes and ‘raiding’ Crocker money flowing into its coffers. Dining Hall during lunch time. That Stuck-Ups and Pirates many of them took liberties with © CA State Parks the dessert tray led to their original Baseball in the Dunes at Asilomar, 1915. To assist the YWCA mission at name, “Pie Rats”, later morphed Grogan Collection. 8 © CA State Parks Stuck Ups, 1927 continued to pursue a buyer for end, but the influx of people year-round, full-service conference Asilomar. into California made sure that grounds. In 1936, the YWCA leased Asilomar did not stay empty for In 1952, the YWCA negotiated a Asilomar to the Visel brothers, long. Families of military personnel deal with an Oakland funeral home operators of a ranch in Carpinteria, associated with Fort Ord took director who planned to convert California. The YWCA apparently up residence at Asilomar during Asilomar to an end-of-life home also gave them an option to the first half of 1942 and stayed for 400 persons over age 65. At buy the grounds for $100,000. until 1946. about the same time, Asilomar’s Paulson Visel, with his wife The Friends of Asilomar neighbor, the Del Monte Company, Beatrice, his brother David and offered to buy the several hundred Following World War II, YWCA mother Elizabeth, moved onto the thousand cubic feet of sand west members were torn between grounds and began an energetic of the Chapel near the Circle. The their emotional attachment to program to restore Asilomar’s Friends of Asilomar objected to the grounds and its inability to glory as a conference facility while both deals but knew that they produce enough revenue to reinventing it as seaside resort and had to provide an alternative in pay for its upkeep. As the YWCA auto camp. order to save Asilomar. A group of entertained purchase offers The effort to turn Asilomar concerned citizens in neighboring for Asilomar, Heard and other into a resort-by-the-sea ended Pacific Grove formed a “Save volunteers convinced the YWCA to in 1941 when the Visels walked Asilomar” committee and actively let them operate the facility. The away from the opportunity to lobbied the State to buy Asilomar. YWCA loaned Asilomar enough buy the grounds. The National In 1951, as part of its plan to money to reopen its conference Board of the YWCA then leased protect California’s coast, the facilities and to replace roofs and the grounds to the National Youth California Department of Natural add a coat of “Asilomar Green” Administration (NYA), a unit of Resources Division of Beaches paint. The Friends of Asilomar also the New Deal-era Works Progress & Parks purchased nearby Moss began to plan for Asilomar’s long- Administration that offered Beach (Asilomar Beach) and parts term survival. education and employment of the rocky shoreline south Perhaps the most consequential training to unemployed youth. The of the Point Pinos lighthouse decision they made was the hiring NYA used Asilomar’s grounds to reservation. By 1952, the State of manager Roma Philbrook, in house and train young people for Parks Commission announced that 1949. An experienced hospital the expected wartime industries it was interested in buying the administrator, Philbrook would while providing an opportunity for conference grounds and nearby remain at Asilomar until the end of structured recreation. dunes, which it would set aside 1977, overseeing its transformation With the start of World War forever as a wild and undeveloped from primarily a weekend and II, the NYA’s mission came to an area. The Commission authored summer meeting facility to a 9 conference grounds’ impact on the environment. In the 1980s, State Parks began a systematic program of dune restoration that continues to this day. Forest restoration, which had begun as early as 1959, also continues as the effects of pitch canker, fragmentation, and other impacts on the Monterey pine-coast live oak forest are monitored and analyzed. In 1993 the State cancelled the concession contract with the Pacific Grove-Asilomar Operating

© CA State Parks Corporation, awarding it to the Asilomar Foundation Members, left to right: Delaware North Corporation in Elizabeth Gordon; Bernise May; Winifred Heard; Roma Philbrook; Maude Empey, 1954. 1996. In September 2009, California State Parks signed a twenty- management, Asilomar began a bill to fund the purchase of year concession agreement with several decades of profitable Asilomar and 18 other properties, ARAMARK Sports & Entertainment operations. Plans were put into which passed with little difficulty. to operate the conference grounds place in 1958, calling for full Nevertheless, Governor Goodwin and lodging business. Knight pocket vetoed the bill, utilization of the grounds, “First arguing that the nearly $16 Class” housing, more parking, and Asilomar State Beach & million package violated the a modern infrastructure. Conference Grounds long-standing principal that State Expansion and modernization The Asilomar State Beach and funds be matched with private of Asilomar began in 1959 with Conference Grounds park unit donations or local allocations. the opening of the Surf and Sand now contains nearly 60 buildings Winifred Heard convinced the Complex and the Corporation located on 107 acres with a world- YWCA to donate half the $700,000 Yard. A remodeled and expanded renowned beach, gently rolling appraised value to the state. She dining facility followed, with sand dunes, and a Monterey then convinced her friend Joseph the Pacific Grove Rotary Club pine-Coast Live Oak forest. A Knowland, Chairman of the Parks inaugurating the new Seascape major State Parks project funded Commission, Democratic State dining room in 1961. In 1969, with concessionaire contributions Senator, Fred Farr, and Republican State Parks terminated the and completed in 2014, brought State Assemblyman, Alan Pattee, operating agreement with Pacific Asilomar into compliance with to broker a deal in which the City Grove and assumed control the Americans with Disabilities of Pacific Grove would manage over the Pacific Grove-Asilomar Act. The project included mobility the grounds for 25 years, Operating Corporation. Roma upgrades to conference grounds reinvesting all surplus revenues Philbrook remained, however, and pathways, several remodeled into maintenance and new Asilomar’s expansion continued accessible lodge rooms, and buildings. On July 1, 1956, the state across Asilomar Avenue into East improved building accessibility merged the conference grounds Woods with the addition of the throughout the property. with Asilomar State Beach Park State Parks’ training facility and Asilomar has an annual visitation under the management of the accompanying housing. Though of more than 400,000 people non-profit Pacific Grove-Asilomar Roma Philbrook departed in 1977, including conference attendees, Operating Corporation (PG-AOC). expansion continued until the attendees, overnight guests, and completion of the Forest Lodge vacationers to the beach, dunes Concessionaires and Fireside complexes in 1981. and coastal trail who revel in the Under the concession agreement Throughout Asilomar’s years of spectacular views of this “Refuge with the PG-AOC, and with expansion, concern grew over the by the Sea”. Roma Philbrook’s continued

10 restoration © CA State Parks. Elmer Schmidt, c. 1920

Phoebe Hearst Social Hall Association (YWCA) had decided a representative for the real estate Terrace Restoration Project to build a permanent conference development firm known as the – a California State Parks and site, the first owned and operated Pacific Improvement Company Aramark Collaboration by a women’s group in the (PIC), Mr. A.D. Shepherd. The PIC On an autumn afternoon in United States. The initial survey had offered thirty acres of land to 1912, a small group of “pioneer group included Mrs. Phoebe the YWCA for its new conference workers and dreamers” gathered Apperson Hearst, Mrs. Benjamin grounds with the stipulation at the edge of the Pacific Ocean at Ide Wheeler, Mrs. Mary Merrill, that they pay land taxes and add the site now known as Asilomar. Miss Ella Schooley, and Miss Julia $30,000 in improvements within The Young Women’s Christian Morgan. Accompanying them was ten years.

11 In the words of Mary Merrill (first design aesthetic for the Asilomar bureau of information, post office, director of Asilomar), “Together we Conference Grounds buildings book store, and tea room/shop wandered through the picturesque drew inspiration – and materials where post cards and photographs camping grounds of old Monterey – from the local setting. The were sold. Outside, the building’s and Pacific Grove, over the sand buildings at Asilomar embrace full-width concrete terrace, with dunes, on thru the pine trees, the California Arts and Crafts style a tiered semi-circular stairway, gathering inspiration every that emphasizes nature, site, and afforded a view towards the ocean. moment from the glimpse of the local materials. Milled redwood The building’s entry doors offered ocean, blue in its tranquility; the paneling and roof trusses were a rustic embrace and welcomed scene growing more fascinating harvested locally; rubble stone campers to Asilomar – “Refuge by and captivating at every turn, until pillars sourced from the nearby the Sea.” The concrete terrace was we reached the marvelous beach, seashore. With topographic maps demolished in 1973 and a wood the boundary of our possessions to supplied by the PIC, Morgan drew deck constructed in its place. be. Retracing our steps, with Miss the initial plans for the grounds, The wood deck did not retain Morgan in our lead, who visualized linking building sites with walking Morgan’s original design intent, as for us the future sites for the paths and utility roads. She it restricted the view of the natural various buildings, we decided then planned for three buildings around environment from the interior and there that we could and would the wooded campus circle that and the view of the building meet the requirements of the served as the primary sites for from the grounds. Restoration of company [PIC] and recommended socializing (Phoebe Hearst Social the concrete terrace returns the to the National Board that this offer Hall), spiritual uplift (Grace Dodge building to its original design, be accepted. Thus the vision of the Chapel),and sustenance (Mary Ann reestablishes a unique view shed, Conference Grounds and Vacation Crocker Dining Hall). Phoebe A. and strengthens the historical Camp of the National Board Hearst Social Hall, originally called integrity and value of this National became a reality.”1 the Administration Building, was Historic Landmark property. A key member of the group completed in 1913. This attractive California State Parks prepared of “dreamers” was Julia Morgan, building has a large, welcoming the terrace restoration design first woman to receive a license fireplace, cozy reading areas, and, and consulted on all ecological, to practice architecture in the during the early years of YWCA architectural, and historical state of California. Morgan’s ownership, housed class rooms, a issues related to the project. Asilomar concessionaire, Aramark, managed the construction project, completed March, 2017. Your comments on the restoration project are welcome and we encourage you to share your thoughts with California State Parks by calling the Asilomar State Park Office: (831) 646-6440.

1. YWCA Publication, “The Story of Asilomar” c. 1924

12 architecture © CA State Parks. Peter Nichols

Julia Morgan of something great. Morgan’s person to carry the YWCA’s vision When Julia Morgan designed college friend, Oakland Chapter forward. In 1894 she graduated Asilomar Conference Grounds for President, Grace Fischer said that with an engineering degree the YWCA, women in California the YWCA “is not an experiment.” from the University of California, had only recently secured the right The investment in Asilomar was Berkeley—only the fourth woman to vote. The women of the YWCA one way to prove it. to do so. In 1898 she became the knew that they were on the verge Julia Morgan was the right first women admitted to the École © CA State Parks Phoebe Apperson Hearst Social Hall Interior, c. 1915. Julia Morgan, Architect

13 fireplaces, Morgan’s buildings inspire appreciation for architecture and for the natural environment. John Carl Warnecke In 1957 Asilomar’s management hired San Francisco architect John Carl Warnecke to develop a “Master Plan” for the park’s modernization and expansion. Born in Oakland in 1919, Warnecke was the son of Oakland architect Carl I. Warnecke. Before he retired, John Carl Warnecke’s internationally recognized firm designed the Soviet Embassy in Washington, DC, the U.S. Naval Academy Library, international airports, university buildings, and the Hawaii State Capitol. He became acquainted with John and Jacqueline Kennedy, and after JFK’s assassination, Warnecke designed the presidential gravesite at Arlington National Cemetery. When he was hired at Asilomar

© CA State Parks, Peter Nichols he was probably best known for Merrill Hall Interior. Julia Morgan, Architect designing the Mira Vista School in Richmond, California. What caught des Beaux-Arts in Paris, where, demonstrated an ability to work the eye of Asilomar manager in 1902, she graduated with a in an extraordinary array of Roma Philbrook, however, was the Master’s Degree in Architecture. architectural styles. Trained in the recently completed Mark Thomas In 1904, after working with the classicism of the Beaux-Arts, her Inn in Monterey. With wood board University of California’s architect, designs for Asilomar reflect an siding and landscaping that honors John Galen Howard, Morgan innovative vernacular approach to the forested hillside setting, it was a became the first woman to earn Arts and Craft architecture known clear demonstration of Warnecke’s a license to practice architecture as the First Bay Tradition. She set contextual approach to architecture. in California. She opened her own this standard at Asilomar with the Warnecke’s plan for Asilomar office in San Francisco that same Phoebe Apperson Hearst Social called for expanding its capacity year. Hall, the first permanent building and improving its facilities with the Throughout her career, Morgan on the grounds. The Social Hall features natural materials including local granite and unpainted redwood. Hidden behind the dunes and set among the trees, it remains the center of life at Asilomar. With the construction of the majestic Merrill Hall in 1928 Morgan’s work at Asilomar came to a close. Set where the sandy dunes meet the Monterey pine-oak forest

CA State Parks and featuring native materials, CA State Parks © © open ceilings and imposing 14 addition of “First Class” housing. Nevertheless, Asilomar should not become “crowded,” Warnecke said. Lodging, meeting, and dining hall additions were to be “accomplished without destroying the easy relationship of buildings to the land.” Starting with the Surf and Sand Complex, the Corporation Yard, Woodlands and Seascape, followed by Sea Galaxy, View Crescent and the Long Views Group, Warnecke used exposed wood beams and wood shake exterior cladding to compliment Morgan’s precedent. His Second and Third Bay Tradition designs use glass to link his building interiors with the natural world outside. Warnecke hired San Francisco interior designer, Jean Coblenz, who furnished the modern rooms in burnt orange and gold to contrast with the coastal fog, and sienna, cerulean blue and olive greens © CA State Parks, Peter Nichols to harmonize with Asilomar’s Surf and Sand Meeting Room. JC Warnecke, Architect extraordinary landscape. meant to satisfy the growing leaders, the William Penn Mott, Jr. demand for modern lodging first State Park Training Center. In 1981 North Woods, East Woods, awakened by Warnecke’s Surf and Asilomar completed its expansion Fireside and Forest Lodge Sand Complex. with the opening of the Fireside In 1970, Asilomar’s management In 1974 the conference grounds and Forest Lodge complexes. In razed the Julia Morgan-designed expanded across Asilomar Avenue keeping with the rustic spirit of the Guest Inn and the last of the with the addition of East Woods. older buildings on the grounds, YWCA’s Long Houses to make At the same time California all the newer buildings feature room for the North Woods State Parks opened its Center unfinished wood and rugged Complex. Designed by San for Continuous Learning, later stone exteriors that harmonize Francisco architects Smith, Barker renamed in honor of one of the with the local environment. & Hanssen, North Woods was Department’s most distinguished CA State Parks, Peter Nichols CA State Parks, Peter Nichols CA State Parks, Peter Nichols © © © Left to right: North Woods, Fireside/Farr Forum, Mott Training Center. 15 habitats © CA State Parks

Asilomar Dunes Natural Preserve stability to the dune sands and on an ambitious project in 1984 Asilomar’s 35 acres of sand dunes habitat for native animals had been to restore the dunes to its “pre- represent the last remaining area reduced to small remnant patches European-influence” condition of contiguous, undeveloped dunes through continued unregulated use by creating a self-sustaining in Pacific Grove. Once covering of the dunes. ecosystem. some 480 acres along the western Aggressive efforts to control Luckily, amidst the desolation, a edge of the Monterey Peninsula, drifting sand that was engulfing few isolated pockets of relatively the sand dunes have changed the buildings included using heavy pristine habitat remained. These dramatically since Europeans began equipment to remove drift sand became the models upon which to settle here in the 1700s. Logging, away from the buildings. Non-native guidelines were developed for cattle grazing, sand mining and ice plant was encouraged to grow the restoration work as well as development have damaged and due to its ability to stabilize drifting seed banks for the propagation of removed much of the original dune sand. By the early 1980s the dunes native plants. ecosystem. were a relatively flat area existing The restoration project goal was The degraded dunes permitted almost exclusively of ice plant. to preserve the dune environment loose sand to blow away in the wind Ice plant provides neither food in its natural condition while and, as years passed, the towering nor shelter to native wildlife and accommodating public use. This dunes shrank drastically. The native aggressively out-competes native seemingly simple goal required plants that had historically provided plants by usurping the nutrients, many years of work and ingenuity water and space needed for growth. to accomplish. The first challenge The natural undulating shape of was to collect enough native seeds the dunes was degraded, allowing from the isolated pockets of native wind and salt spray to move inland habitat remaining. Second, was to unabated. This caused the wind- build a plant nursery to begin the twisted pines closest to the sea to delicate process of propagating die and put additional stress on the and growing the plants. Next, inland plants usually protected by all non-native plants had to be the dunes. eliminated from the dunes using Something Had to be Done environmentally safe methods. Heavy equipment was used to State Parks staff and the sculpt the dunes in the same concessionaire agreed that strong way the prevailing winds would © CA State Parks action had to be taken if the dunes have done. Once the dunes were Degraded sand dunes with invasive, non- were to be saved. They embarked native ice plant. reshaped, they were replanted by 16 hand and hydroseeded. A split-rail fence was put around the restored dunes to protect it from unwanted trampling. Each step of the way, local citizens volunteered their efforts to help State Parks staff meet these challenges. In time, the dunes habitat began to resemble its earlier pristine state as native plants took hold and thrived. The plant nursery provided an © CA State Parks © CA State Parks© Gary Nafis © CA State Parks © CA State Parks © economical source of dunes plants. To date, more than 400,000 plants representing 25 different native plant species have been grown and planted in the dunes and along the shoreline bluffs. The dunes currently are dominated by native plants and are home to special status plants and animals like Menzies’ Wallflower, Black Legless Lizard and Red-shouldered Hawk. Monterey Pines Since Europeans first viewed the pines along the fog shrouded Monterey peninsula over 400 years ago, the beauty of Monterey pine forests has been valued by explorers, scientists, nature lovers and artists alike. The Monterey pine forest is an integral part of the “sense of place” at Asilomar and has been celebrated in song and verse by visitors over the years. Monterey pines are the most

© CA State Parks widely planted pine in the world. It is planted for its stately grace in Photos T to B: Red-shouldered Hawk; gardens and public landscapes as Menzies’ Wallflower; Black Legless Lizard well as for its economic value. Fast growth and quality wood from as banks of genetic diversity for selective breeding make it ideal the development of new strains of for the global timber industry. Monterey pines. Monterey pines are extensively Thousands of years ago, native grown in New Zealand, Australia, Monterey pine forests grew in Chile, South Africa and the fragmented pockets throughout Mediterranean region. The native California. Due to shifts in climate, Monterey pine forests in California and, more recently, to urban and are of great importance to these agricultural development, these CA State Parks forest industries as they function majestic native pines are now one 17 many older pines— 50, 65, and 75 year old survived (Smith 1994). Monterey pines are well adapted to regenerating after fires as most cones remain closed until exposed to high temperatures. It is estimated that tens of thousands of young pine seedlings per acre can be established after a fire. Pitch Canker Pitch canker is a disease caused by a fungus (Fusarium circinatum). It was first recognized in California in 1986 and affects many of California’s native pines including Monterey pines. In 1993, pitch canker was first identified within native Monterey pine stands at Asilomar and in the Del Monte Forest of Pebble Beach. By 1994, it had spread to all the native stands of Monterey pines in California. As early as 1997, pitch canker at Asilomar was found in 78 percent of its pines; by January 2001, less than two percent of pines were free of pitch canker symptoms. Since 1991 over 60 percent of Asilomar’s pines greater than six inches in diameter have died - a staggering mortality rate! Native bark, cone and twig beetles carry the fungus pathogen to branch tips and cone whorls.

© CA State Parks, Peter Nichols Needles on the tips of infected Asilomar’s Monterey pine forest branches fade to yellow, then to rust, and fall from the tree. of the rarest forest ecosystems acres covered with hardscape: Advanced symptoms of pitch in the world. They are limited to roads, trails and buildings. It is canker disease include resin a narrow stretch of California’s dominated by Monterey pines extruding on the surface of the coast in San Mateo, Santa Cruz, with a sub-canopy of coast live shoots, branches, exposed roots Monterey, and San Luis Obispo oaks and intermixed with planted and trunks. Trees with advanced counties as well as two islands off non-native Monterey cypress. symptoms of the disease have the west coast of Baja, Mexico. The Historically, the pine canopy in significant crown dieback due largest and most diverse remaining the Asilomar area was dominated to the large number of infected Monterey pine forests are here on by trees that became established branch tips. the Monterey Peninsula. between 1850 and 1910 (McBride Each area of the tree showing The Forest at Asilomar and Stone, 1976). A major fire in symptoms is a separate infection. 1901 burned many trees; but, in Removing diseased parts of a Asilomar’s forest currently covers some parts of the Asilomar forest, tree does not stop the infection. approximately 45 acres with 16

18 Currently, there has been no Today, the Asilomar State demonstrated way to control the Park resource staff grows native effects of pitch canker through the Monterey pines from seeds taken use of insecticides and fungicides from within the park. There is no or other methods. direct link between the resistance Progress and Ongoing or susceptibility to pitch canker Challenges of a parent tree and the seedlings it produces. Seeds are collected Over the years since pitch canker from trees with and without pitch was recognized on California’s canker symptoms in a way that central coast, the understanding ensures a high degree of genetic of how to manage pitch canker- diversity. The seedlings are grown infected Monterey pine forests © CA State Parks in 3-gallon pots to ensure robust has changed significantly. Early Pine tree with pitch canker seedlings to transplant. Another methods, such as inoculating method used to encourage seedlings with the disease to natural recruitment of pines is the The chipped material suppresses screen them for resistance, showed placement of woodchips, made the growth of non-native annuals promise in the greenhouse, but from dead Monterey pine trees in and increases survival for natural long-term results in the forest were the park, and supplemented with pine seedlings (trees not grown disappointing. Work is continuing chipped pine cones. This seed- in the nursery and hand-planted). to identify the genes responsible for dense media is spread in areas that While pitch canker has been a resistance and to develop reliable have conditions conducive to primary cause for the rapid decline germination methods. pine growth. of Monterey pines at Asilomar, the degradation of the forest ecosystem has been affected by other factors as well. Forest Fragmentation The pine and oak forest was thinned for the construction of buildings in 1913 and continued until 1981. Thirty-five percent of Asilomar’s forest is fragmented with buildings, parking lots, roadways and pathways. This fragmentation prevents the pines from developing a dense canopy. Competition from Invasive Plants The pine canopy that once created ideal growing conditions for native understory plants is now lost. Longer periods of sunlight weaken the shade-tolerant plants and dry out the soil. Conditions on the forest floor now favor non- natives. Weedy annual grasses, herbs, vines, shrubs and trees are included in the more than 60 species of non-native plants that © CA State Parks Asilomar plant nursery occur at Asilomar.

19 20 roadways, but we can work and buildings, lots, of parking today’s landscape with Asilomar conditions forest pre-European at pine forest ecosystem. maintenance theMonterey for restoration, protection, of and Plan. It establishes aframework Asilomar Forest Management In 2007, State Parks updated its The Forest Plan Strategy squirrels. fox red and starlings, Eurasian Collared-Doves, sparrows, house as such species with filled non-native is being wildlife void populations. The native eliminated or reduced The loss of native vegetation has Non-native Wildlife shade of the oaks. are unable to regenerate the under as the youngforest seedlings pine the eventually dominate can oaks canopy. However, thelonger-lived beneath thepine’ssurviving two live harmoniously with oaks Inoak. amature pine forest, the closest neighbor—the coast live comes the Monterey from pine’s A less apparent threat to the forest Oaks Live Coast

©CA State Parks, Peter Nichols We will never replicate the developed sites in the park. sitesdeveloped thepark. in remnantof vegetation less on areas small mimic to try and trees towards amosaic of representative cypress trees have grown quite Monterey pines would die. Many there were concerns that all the were planted aggressively when are native not to they Asilomar; a selective basis. Cypress trees growth of pines is performed on the inhibit that oaks and plants outplanting. survive to year need overperiod five-year a estimate that 560 pine trees per reforestation at Asilomar, we for many years. To achieve in the plant nursery will continue during season. rut fall the as well as rubbing from the bucks browsing Black-tailed local of deer, and trampling the from tree young out quickly), and protects the drying from soil the (preventing passive winds, offers shade heavy from protects screen The screened. partially are many trees reforestation, successful assist planted are and now thriving. To resistant to pitch canker, have been The removal non-native The of Growing native Monterey pines healthy trees, of number A forest vegetation.forest andoaks the establishment of result end The is larger pines and in the soil is significantly higher. matter. water-holding The capacity organic higher and subsoil the in parent material with clay iron and associated with the oldest dune are soils the inland, Further dune. to apine forest rather than a is thetrees weightedunder more growing species plant in change the eastern edge of the dunes, a grow on pines matter.organic As water-holding low and capacity sands with high permeability, low feldspar and quartz of deposits sand. It is composed of loose the coast is little more than loose forest. pine the protects dunes thesand words, preserving atthe forest Asilomar. other In shaping in role significant a play forest, dune soil and topography control the number of cypresses. An active program is underway to Monterey pines by overshadowing. prevent the regeneration the of large since the early and 90s now are altered by the trees. The the dunes, patterns of wind edge spread laterally theeastern along salt spray. pines As develop and and wind from protection areas swale offer the Ridges plants. creating favorable conditions for (valleyswale thedunes) of areas, tends to accumulate thelower in moisture pattern, ridge-swale a of vegetation development. plays asignificant role in soil and The topography of these surfaces creating gentle and wide slopes. ages, differing of dunes stabilized lies over partially property feet above sea level. The entire elevation from sea level to 90 conference grounds in ranges The soil in young dunes nearest In the ecological context of the Where the topographyWhere consists The topography of the provide local wildlife with pockets of dense, small tree habitat that has not been available for many years. The denser tree growth and increased shade will also slow – and probably help reduce - the growth of invasive non-native plants. It is important to take reforestation action now. In 50 years a new generation of park visitors will be experiencing the results of the forest we save today. With increasing stressors on our natural environment, like climate change, a robust effort is needed to restore Asilomar’s forest. A focus on creating a multi-aged, genetically diverse forest may make this habitat more resilient to future challenges. Every small effort on our part will ensure that Asilomar’s Monterey pine forest ecosystem continues to exist and thrive for future generations.

© CA State Parks © CA State Parks The State Beach and Some dead pines are intentionally left standing for acorn woodpeckers. The trees are used Blue Pacific for nesting sites, graneries to store acorns, and to hunt for insects. The craggy coves and a long stretch of sand on Asilomar State wind-topped pines push wind or get water in one or more other Beach offer a myriad of places to currents up and away from the habitat areas. The ability to move explore. Here, you’ll find treasures surface, providing a wind barrier between habitat areas for these everywhere. As you explore, keep for the forest vegetation. purposes is critical. The health of in mind that each form of marine Further inland in the Asilomar trees and vegetation in different life, from seabirds to the smallest forest, the topography of ridges zones is key to their livelihood on invertebrates, plants, and rocks, is is wide, gentle slopes. Pines and the Asilomar grounds. protected in this marine reserve. cypresses exist on these ridges as Asilomar State Beach is one of well as in the lower swale areas, A Snapshot of Asilomar’s several Marine Protected Areas reaching their greatest heights due Forest Today in the Monterey Bay Sanctuary. It is evident when taking a quick to the fact that they are largely examination of the Asilomar forest sheltered from wind. that it is in poor condition as a A diversity of habitat vegetation result of the advanced age of most in the forest is important for of the trees, forest fragmentation managing the health of wildlife from development, and disease. populations. The many wildlife But a closer look will reveal species that occur at Asilomar have sites in the forest where young various needs for nesting, food and healthy trees have been planted cover. These requirements vary or growing naturally and are seasonally, depending on the life thriving. In the years to come, this cycle of the plants and animals. reforestation will create a juvenile Animals that nest or den in one forest stage at Asilomar which will CA State Parks habitat area are likely to forage © 21 California’s Marine Protected Areas depart Monterey, the Pacific gray form a network which includes whales begin arriving in November. many different marine habitats – Sightings increase each day until including Asilomar’s rocky coast their numbers peak around the tide pools. second week in January. Pacific Asilomar’s White Sand gray whales travel round trip, about 12,000 miles each year, from the Santa Lucia granodiorite rock forms Chukchi Sea between Alaska and the rocky coast along Asilomar © CA State Parks Russia to their breeding grounds State Beach. This dense, hard rock in Baja California, Mexico, and then is comprised of large rectangular over the beach, it percolates down, back to the Chukchi Sea. crystals of orthoclase feldspar, carrying with it plankton and gray translucent quartz, creamy Sea Otters dissolved oxygen that nourishes plagioclase feldspar, and black The sea otter is undeniably one these marine animals. Each species biotite mica. It formed over 100 of the most popular animals in that calls the rocky habitat home million years ago from a molten Monterey Bay. Sea otters are fairly must be able to survive the mass deep in the earth under the easy to spot because they spend crashing waves and submersion ocean. It was transported here most of their time floating on their during high tides and the exposure through massive uplifts and plate backs, eating or sleeping in giant to drying winds, sun, and rain tectonics. This movement most kelp fronds on the surface of the during low tides. As you explore likely caused the fissures you see ocean. Its scientific name, Enhydra the tide pools, remember not to in the rocks today. These cracks lutris, means “otter in the water.” remove rocks, animals, plants or weaken the integrity of the rock, This name is most fitting because shells. making it more vulnerable to otters spend almost all their lives in erosion. Over time, the erosion of Harbor Seals the ocean—they eat, sleep, mate, these rocks eventually wears down Harbor seals are in Monterey Bay give birth, and feed their young to fine white sand. This sand is year round. Frequently seen hauled at sea. suspended in the sea water and, in out onto rocky outcroppings at They are the most aquatic of all time, deposited onto the beach by low tide, these 300-pound marine otters. Otters are the only marine wave action. mammals rest after feeding cycles. mammal without a layer of fat to Marine Life They are considered to be one keep it warm in the cold ocean. of the world’s finest deep-sea It relies on its thick fur to keep it Shells scattered on the beach divers. Although they breathe warm. The fur is the thickest of any are actually the cast-off external air as we do, seals are built to animal in the world. It is so dense, it coverings of sea creatures. These remain underwater for remarkable would be impossible to part it with shells are efficiently recycled back periods— a dive of up to 30 a comb and see its skin. Otters have into nature by other marine animals minutes and 300 foot depth is two types of fur— guard hairs are and the pounding surf. The hermit possible. Harbor seals spend time long, coarse strands, and the under crab uses the empty shells to create on dry land to molt, give birth, fur is shorter, finer hairs. Clean fur is its own protective home. The giant nurse, and care for their pups. a matter of life and death for otters; green sea anemone attaches pieces it must be groomed and cleaned of shell to its skin for disguise and Whales constantly. Otters use their sharp for protection from the sun. Other Every year, starting in late summer claws as a comb to scratch and shells are ground up by the motion into fall, migrating humpback brush the fur to untangle and clean of the waves and made available for whales appear in Monterey Bay it. The otter’s coat is loose on its marine animals to make new shells. waters. The whales spend their body so it can pull it around to clean A world of marine organisms thrive summers in cold, nutrient-rich areas that are hard to reach. under the white beach sand— northern Pacific water, feeding on worms, crabs, shrimp, and some small fish and krill. When winter Giant Kelp creatures so small they can live in approaches, the whales travel Several different species of large, the tiny spaces between the grains south to the warmer waters of the brown algae or kelp grow just of sand. When sea water washes tropic seas. offshore. The “beds” of floating As humpbacks and blue whales fronds and bulbs are frequently 22 seen on the water’s surface. Kelp, The coastline at Asilomar is part crowds. In the waterfilled pools, also known as seaweed, attracts of the Asilomar State Marine sea anemones open in flower-like feeding sea otters, circling gulls, Preserve. All plants and animals shapes as their tentacles capture and diving cormorants. All this are protected by law. No fishing prey with a sharp paralyzing activity hints at the riches that lie or collecting is allowed. sting. If you are lucky, you may below the ocean’s surface. Tide pools closest to shore are spot an immature green-colored, Giant kelp (Macrocystis pyifera) home to the hardiest plants and purple spiny sea urchin wedged in is the most common algae in the animals. Some kelp varieties in this the rocks. forest. It grips rocks on the ocean zone need “drying time” in order to Brilliantly colored nudibranchs bottom with “holdfasts” and uses release spores. Snails, limpets, and and sponges are found in the air-filled bulbs found at the base of some barnacles nestle onto rocks deepest pools. Small sculpin fish each kelp blade to float the long and in crevices while hermit crabs and rock prickleback dart about in fronds to the surface. This floating scurry along the pool’s edge. search of food among the ability enables the kelp, which can The next level in the intertidal surf grass. reach over 90 feet high, to rise zone is home to more delicate For all its splendid display, life towards sunlight so photosynthesis species, those which can only in the tide pools is harsh. Forever can take place. survive out of water less than six at the mercy of the elements and Giant kelp contains algin, hours. This is where multi-colored constantly vulnerable to predators, a chemical common in many sea stars drape over rocks and the tide pool plants and animals products we use. The extracted goose-necked barnacles and black exist in an endless dance between algin is an effective emulsifier and mussels pack into tight mosaic life and death. suspension agent in salad dressing, ice cream, fruit drinks, water-based paints, adhesives, food wrappers, toothpaste, surgical jellies and hand lotion. Tide Pools Along the rocky shoreline, tide pools form as sea water washes over the rocks and fills the natural depressions. Tide pools range from small, shallow puddles high up on shore to large, deep pools nearer the sea. The best time to explore tide pools is during the lowest of low tides that occur during a full moon or new moon phase. Tide pools are home to dozens of different animals and plants. When sea water flows into the pools, it brings fresh oxygen and food to its inhabitants. Some animals spend their whole lives in one pool while others swim in and out with the tides. Between tides, some smaller pools are exposed to the air and begin. Many of the animals take shelter under cool, damp rocks and moist seaweeds so their bodies do not dry out before the tide comes in again. ©CA State Parks 23 bird life of

asilomar Richard Parsons D. © 2016 As with most parks, Asilomar has all common Monterey pine forest of the rocky intertidal habitat would its resident birds, whose calls and residents that are seen at nearly have to be the Black Oystercatcher, habits are so familiar to the staff every bird outing. On the sandy a bird seen year-round foraging that we rarely have to look around beach, the seasonality of shorebirds for hard-shelled invertebrates to know who is scratching in the makes them a little bit sparser, but in the continuously changing undergrowth. Dark-eyed Juncos, during Spring and Fall migration, tide pools. While Asilomar has a White-crowned Sparrows, the you may be treated to sights of respectable number of roughly 80 boisterous Acorn Woodpeckers and Whimbrels, Marbled Godwits, species seen regularly, our overall precocious California Scrub-Jays are Willets and Sanderlings. The mascot species list, including rarities and more infrequent visitors, totals 225 species. This is an enormous White-tailed Kite number of birds for a small 107-acre park. Asilomar benefits from having five distinct ecological zones that provide a variety of habitats for wildlife, starting with a Monterey pine forest at the eastern edge of the park and ending up on the edge of the Pacific Ocean. Coastal access helps increase our number of bird species. Offshore, the Monterey Bay National Marine Sanctuary protects habitat that seabirds utilize while the short continental shelf allows for more open-ocean species to be sighted from shore with spotting scopes. It is definitely recommended that you bring your binoculars on any outing around the park, even to and from meals at the dining hall. You never know who might fly 2016 Richard Parsons D. 2016 © across your path! 24 Standing next to historic Merrill Hall, designed by famed architect California Scrub-Jay Julia Morgan (see article pg. 13) you are immersed in Asilomar’s native Monterey pine forest. There are both Monterey pines and coast live oaks in this habitat, and these native trees provide food and shelter for many of our forest birds. The pine trees are host to many insect species that insectivorous bird species such as the Chestnut- backed Chickadee and Pygmy Nuthatch rely on. Their dense, high canopies hide the nests of raptors such as the Red-shouldered Hawk and White-tailed Kites, who prefer to nest in the safety of the tallest trees in the forest. The coast live oak is an evergreen oak species that can produce tons of acorns during “mast years”, which are 2016 Richard Parsons D. © 2016 years when the acorn crop is especially robust. Before the acorns even hit the ground, the They sit in open areas on perches Swallows are seen flying high flashy Acorn Woodpecker is busy fairly low to the ground and look over the dunes catching bugs in collecting and storing them in around for flying insects to eat. the summer months and both granary trees that the family group They sally out and pluck the bug nest on park grounds. The Barn will utilize throughout the winter out of mid-air and then return to Swallows build mud nests in the months. To find a granary tree, their same lookout perch to scan underground parking area and the look for trees with hundreds of for more meals. The Black Phoebe Violet-green Swallows use cavities dime-sized holes all over the bark is so common, it is seen on every in trees as well as nest boxes that with acorns placed in the holes. bird walk. Another frequently seen are built and maintained by state These woodpeckers also use the bird species is the White-crowned parks staff. lampposts around the park to store Sparrow, who is unquestionably Using the crosswalk to safely acorns, much to the dislike of our the master of the dune habitat. traverse Sunset Avenue, you’ll maintenance staff. You’ll also see They scurry around beneath arrive at the Sandy Shore habitat. the California Scrub-Jay caching the dune plants like little mice, Most of our classic shorebirds such acorns for the winter. The jays stash typically seen out of the corner as the Willets, Whimbrels, Marbled their acorns in the ground within of your eye. They search on the Godwits and Sanderlings fuel up their territories instead of in the ground for insects and seeds. at Asilomar on their flights north trees like the Acorn Woodpecker. In the spring, the males are to towards the Arctic Circle for spring In this way, they are inadvertently be found sitting atop blooming migration and again coming back helping to propagate the oak trees, yellow bush lupines, singing their south towards Central and South since they don’t always dig up hearts out. Declaring this area as America in the fall. These species what they bury and the acorns can his territory, his call also invites have long, sensitive beaks used germinate in the spring! any indecisive female sparrows to for probing in the wet sand at All through the Transition Forest stop by and see what he has to the ocean’s edge. They forage for and the Dune habitat, you’ll likely offer. Other sparrow species seen sand crabs, marine worms and see a black and white flycatcher in the dunes are Song Sparrows other small invertebrates. The species called a Black Phoebe. and Golden-crowned Sparrows. decomposing kelp of the beach Barn Swallows and Violet-green wrack is another source of tasty 25 White-crowned Sparrow 2016 Richard Parsons D. © 2016 arthropods, so some shorebirds exposed only at low tide. Recent some stunning marine wildlife to may be seen further up the beach research has revealed a shockingly thrive! Diving birds such as Pelagic as well. If your goal is to see these low success rate for oystercatcher Cormorants and Brown Pelicans beach specialists, it’s best to nests around the Monterey forage in the kelp forest that is arrive early in the morning. Most peninsula. These birds nest on the just offshore. The Brown Pelican shorebirds are shy and certainly coastal rocks in order to be close dramatically dives from as high not up for sharing the beach with to their food source, but they are as 65 feet in the air and plunges noisy children or jubilant dogs. frequently disturbed by people into the sea, opening its beak at These birds will retreat further tidepooling and recreating in these the last moment to scoop up the north to the rocky coastline to rest same areas. While a definite reason unsuspecting fish. Their gular and recuperate. North of the sandy for their low success rate has not pouch can hold up to 2.6 gallons beach, the rocky shoreline has its been determined, State Parks and of water! Pelagic Cormorants dive specialist species as well. Opposite local governments erect temporary from the surface of the water and of the flexible, sensitive beaks of fences and signage during the propel themselves after their prey the sandy shore birds, the shore breeding season in order to offer using only their webbed feet. They birds of the rocky intertidal habitat them some protection. eat small fish species such as sand have sturdy, hard beaks that they Looking offshore from the lance, capelin and juvenile rockfish. use for prying open mussels and Asilomar Coast Trail, you are Further out to sea, pelagic or barnacles. This is the domain of viewing the surface waters of the open-ocean bird species are the Black Oystercatcher, one of the Monterey Bay National Marine present, although rarely viewed most striking shorebird species Sanctuary. This stretch of ocean, by the casual observer. If you on the west coast. They do not from Point Pinos in Pacific Grove want to see seabirds, you’ll need catch or consume oysters at all. south to Point Joe in Pebble Beach, a powerful spotting scope and Whoever named them didn’t know is designated as a marine reserve, some strong north-west winds their natural history! They mostly which means that no fishing or to blow the birds closer to shore. prey on limpets and mussels, collecting of marine life is allowed. The Procellariiform order includes hard-shelled invertebrates that are This level of protection allows for albatrosses, shearwaters, fulmars

26 and petrels and they are all truly will ultimately end up. Putting native species all have special skills pelagic, coming to shore only something in the trash does not to obtain the appropriate food to breed. These birds are also make it magically disappear. and their activities are integral affectionately called “tube-noses” It’s best to try and reduce our to the health of the ecosystem. due to their tubular nostrils that consumption of non-essential Feeding wildlife also habituates connect with their salt gland. This plastic items. them to humans and can increase salt gland acts like a second kidney Each one of us has the power to the chances of dangerous human/ and allows the birds to excrete make a positive difference in the wildlife conflicts. excess salt, as seawater is the only world. We hope you’ll be inspired Keep pets on a leash, both at water source available to them. by the unique and stunning the beach and in the forest. Many These birds forage for krill squid, wildlife that you see and keep the birds are passing through on a small fish and marine zooplankton. memories of your visit to Asilomar long migration and could be on Marine plastic is one of the many at the forefront of your mind, even their last leg, trying to get some anthropogenic problems these after you’ve returned home. more energy to keep going. A birds face. Floating plastic out As you enjoy the beauty of joyous but oblivious dog charging at sea is mistaken for food and the central coast, whether in the through a flock of foraging birds consumed by the birds and often tide pools on the coast or in the could be harmful for some of those fed to their chicks. Many of the forested inland areas, it’s good to individuals. Think about how you chicks die from starvation as they keep in mind these guidelines for play a role in the habitat. are literally filled up with plastic, wildlife watching in the park: Get to know our Asilomar birds leaving no room for actual food. Please stay on designated while you are here! State Parks-led Everyday we makes choices to trails. Native animals rely on these bird tours are offered regularly; a purchase single-use plastic items, distinct, special habitats to live and schedule is posted at the State Parks to go for convenience instead of staying on marked trails will help desk in the Hearst Social Hall. A self- planning ahead or not thinking preserve those areas of the park. guided bird brochure with identified through where this plastic product Do not feed the animals. Our habitats is also available here.

Black Oystercatcher 2016 Richard Parsons D. 2016 ©

27 10things to know

Stay Safe and Protect feet of doorways and windows disposal concerns. Wood from the the Environment While when outside. conference grounds fire pit and You Visit Asilomar 6. Walk on established paths lodge fireplaces should not be and roads to preserve vegetation burned at Asilomar State Beach. 1. State Beach and and prevent soil erosion. 9. Asilomar State Beach is Conference Grounds is a Remember, “Plants grow by the part of the Monterey Peninsula California State Park open to all – inch, but die by the foot!” Marine Protected Areas Network. conference attendees, overnight 7. Dogs on leash are In this “No Take Zone”, animals, lodgers, and day visitors. Lock welcome at Asilomar while en plants and natural features are doors and windows to your room route to the beach or coast trail. protected by State and Federal and vehicle. State law requires dogs to be on laws - please refrain from picking 2. Speed limit is 10 mph. a 6-foot leash at all times due up or collecting shells, animals, Please be aware of pedestrians to safety, environmental, and rocks, or plants. Help protect (including families with children), disposal concerns. Only actively our amazing tide pools for wildlife, and weather when working service dogs are allowed future visitors by exploring this driving on conference grounds inside buildings. habitat with your eyes – mobile roads. 8. Open campfires or phone memories and selfies are 3. Park only in designated bonfires are not allowed on encouraged! spaces. No camper or motorhome Asilomar State Beach due to 10. Asilomar is a sanctuary parking on premises or on safety, environmental, and for a diversity of wildlife which perimeter streets is allowed. YOU can protect by not feeding 4. Asilomar recycles! or teasing the animals. Feeding Recycling containers are located animals and birds causes next to most meeting rooms animal nourishment problems, throughout the conference ecosystem imbalance, and grounds and at the entrances to potential harm to humans. Asilomar State Beach. Although rare, mountain lion 5. Keep Asilomar Beautiful sightings on Asilomar grounds by discarding cigarette butts and in the dunes habitat have in ash receptacles. California occurred. Report all mountain law prohibits smoking inside all lion sightings to the Asilomar Asilomar buildings or within 20 State Park Ranger office. CA State Parks © 28 beach mobility

Beach Wheelchair and Beach for lateral transfers. The Deming Advance reservations for Walker Help Make Asilomar beach walker is constructed of equipment use are recommended. State Beach More Accessible lightweight aluminum, is based To reserve the wheelchair or the People who use wheelchairs or on conventional walker design, walker, contact the Asilomar State walkers can now enjoy a day at the and also has the Wheeleez wheels Beach and Conference Grounds beach, going where conventional to easily navigate sand. Asilomar Front Desk: (831) 372-8016. The equipment can’t take them – to State Beach was selected by the equipment is loaned out on a daily the water’s edge. A versatile, sand- California Coastal Commission to basis and is available to be used friendly beach wheelchair, as well serve as the pilot site for the beach at Asilomar State Beach or other as a sand-friendly beach walker, walker in 2017. coastal parks in Monterey County. are available free-of-charge to visitors at Asilomar State Beach and Conference Grounds. The new equipment was • An all-terrain beach wheelchair and beach walker are acquired through the California available for guests with mobility limitations – Coastal Commission’s Whale Tail please check at the front desk. Grants Program, which distributes funds from the sales of California’s • A TTY device for guest use is available at the Conference WHALE TAIL© Coastal Protection Grounds front desk; dial 711TTY relay service. License Plate and donations to the “Protect Our Coast and Oceans • This publication can be made available in alternate Fund” listed on the California state formats by contacting the Asilomar State Park office at tax form. (831) 646-6440. Florida-based Deming Designs’ • California State Parks supports equal access. “DeBug” beach wheelchair Prior to your visit, visitors with disabilities who need incorporates Wheeleez wheels assistance or wish to request accessible to navigate sand, and rear accommodations may do so through suspension is designed to allow all the Conference Grounds website: four wheels to remain in contact www.VisitAsilomar.com or by with the ground when moving calling (831) 372-8016. across uneven terrain, giving users a stable ride. Swing-away arm rests are easily removable

29 cover Artist

Cover Artist: Christine Crozier Europe and the South Pacific have “My art is for people who want to sought Christine’s artwork. Her see themselves in the work, to let home and artwork have been the artwork take them to a time and showcased in the book, Artists’ place where they feel happy, maybe Interiors, by Laurie E. Dickson. younger and more carefree.” Christine is a founding member You can feel Christine’s infectious of the Monterey Bay Plein Air enthusiasm in her expressive oil Painters’ Association (MBPAPA), and paintings. Her art invites us to look served two terms as its president. at the everyday occurrences in our A past president of the Carmel Art own lives with fresh eyes. Association (CAA), and has been Christine Crozier’s work a CAA artist member since 2005. encompasses murals created for Art gallery representation includes some of America’s most beautiful respected teacher who believes the Carmel Art Association, Carmel; homes, as well as painting fine art artists have a mission to foster the Cheryl Watts Gallery, Monterey, CA. oils in her own Monterey Peninsula continual growth of the arts and an To learn more about the artist, visit neighborhood, and farther appreciation for beauty. her website: www.christinecrozier. afield in Europe and Fiji. She is a Collectors in North America, com

Discover and enrich your Asilomar experience with self-guided walk brochures available at the Hearst Social Hall. For a schedule of State Park-led tours of the Asilomar Conference Grounds, visit our website: www.parks. ca.gov/asilomar or call the State Park office: 831-646-6443.

There are many California State Parks located near Asilomar. You can explore the secluded trails of Point Lobos State Natural Reserve, discover the rich Spanish and Mexican heritage of Monterey State Historic Park and San Juan Bautista State Historic Park, and camp under starry skies at Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park. Park information is available at www.parks.ca.gov. Monterey State Historic Park (831) 649-7118 Point Lobos State Natural Reserve © CA State Parks © (831) 624-4909 © CA State Parks © Pfeiffer Big Sur State Parks (831) 667-0528 San Juan Bautista State Historic Park (831) 623-4881 Other nearby State Parks Carmel River State Beach (831) 649-2836 Fort Ord Dunes State Park (831) 649-2836 Marina State Beach (831) 649-2836 Monterey State Beach

The mission of California State Parks is to provide for the health, inspiration and education of the people of California by helping to preserve the state’s extraordinary biological diversity, protecting its most valued natural and cultural resources, and creating opportunities for high-quality outdoor recreation. California State Parks P.O. Box 942896, Sacramento, CA 94296-0001 For information call: (800) 777-0369; Asilomar State Beach and Conference Grounds, (916) 653-6995, outside the U.S. a Unit of California State Parks 711, TTY relay service www.parks.ca.gov Discover the many states of California.™

Visitor’s Guide Editor: Lisa Bradford, CA State Parks Graphic Design: Katherine Minerva Grafx

Printed on recycled paper with vegetable-based ink.