The Lure of PÉRIGORD

GREAT DESTINATIONS ❘ THE DORDOGNE THE DORDOGNE ❘ GREAT DESTINATIONS The lure of PÉRIGORD

La Dordogne: an ancient realm where dark rivers sweep under limestone cliffs and medieval hilltop villages emerge from lush dense forest; where a cornucopia of local produce has created a rich and abundant gastronomic heritage; where the extraordinary legacy of prehistoric cave art contrasts with the sublime architecture of grand Renaissance châteaux; where today’s traveller can stay The château and village of Castelnaud-la-Chapelle for a week, a month, a season and never overlooks the River Céou, a tributary of the Dordogne grow jaded. Guy Hibbert explores... ❯❯ BARBOT © JONATHAN IMAGE

34 ❘ FRANCE TODAY June/July 2016 June/July 2016 FRANCE TODAY ❘ 35 GREAT DESTINATIONS ❘ THE DORDOGNE THE DORDOGNE ❘ GREAT DESTINATIONS

he Périgord, to use the old name for ‘Dordogneshire’ and if your only experience is passing proud of the fact that they have 190 different sites Clockwise from top left: the modern French department through Bergerac airport or visiting the pretty town of and monuments open to visitors, including 70 or so Much of the beauty of the number 24, the Dordogne, is a Eymet then you might think that this reputation has museums, no fewer than 10 of France’s listed villages, Dordogne is that it is in great part very well preserved; multi-faceted jewel of a region in been well earned. 15 UNESCO World Heritage prehistoric sites, over 250 tranquility is never hard to South-West France, where the sun is It’s no surprise the British love the area – it reminds hotels, a similar number of campsites and literally find; and commercial life is high enough to make for warm humid them of the more picturesque parts of England, say the thousands of gîtes and country properties for rental. much as it has ever been; the Montpazier medieval festival; Tsummers, sunny dry autumns, short sharp winters and Cotswolds, but with less crowds and better weather. No wonder three million tourists come to the Dordogne le Château de Bridoire; view lush verdant springtimes. But it would be a great mistake to label the Dordogne every year. over the rooftops of Périgueux Many people claim to know the Dordogne but when in this clichéd manner. Nostalgia for pastoral idylls is a And yet there is space for them all. Because, aside you challenge them on their knowledge, it turns out powerful draw for many travellers, not just the British, from its supremacy in numbers, the Dordogne is big they know their favourite patch well, but have only and this is a corner of France that can deliver a heady enough to offer a charming diversity of landscapes, been to one or two towns and villages beyond – in antidote to the stress of busy lives, giving a taste of attractions and activities to cater for most tastes and other words, they have formed their opinion too early. what has often been lost in more densely populated to allow people to join in the action or be an escapist, To discover all that this grand region has to offer parts of the world. Like an actor who happens to be as the mood dictates. requires time and imagination, to venture away from excellent at a certain role, there is always a danger of the tourist hot-spots, to meander a little off the beaten typecasting – but the reality is that la Dordogne is a THE FOUR COLOURS OF PÉRIGORD track, to allow time to linger and create your own star with a diverse portfolio ready to be revealed, if you Some years ago the tourist authorities hit upon a memorable experiences. know how and where to look. distinct way of naming some of the territories within Take a moment to consider the Dordogne ‘by the département – the so called four Périgords, the ‘DORDOGNESHIRE’ numbers’ and you will begin to appreciate its scale and Noir, Pourpre, Blanc and Vert (black, purple, white and The British have a long association with the Dordogne, diversity. It’s actually the third largest département green). Unlike some more fanciful labels these labels and fought over it often during the Hundred Years’ War in France and can easily take two and a half hours to are actually quite handy to get your bearings and they in the 14th and 15th centuries. By contrast, today’s cross by road from one border to another. And no allow the visitor to get a sense of what lies beyond the Brits are more likely to be seen fighting over an old wonder its river-based activities are legendary because hotspot destinations. Having lived and travelled in the property for sale, enjoying the sensual delights of a it has over 500 kilometres of navigable waterways, Dordogne I can vouch for the aptness of the names. summer market or canoeing down a river. So popular including the mighty Dordogne, the Vézère, Isle and Périgord Noir lies in the southeast and contains that has the region proved with expats that national Dronne. All this space is beautifully green: of the 557 most quintessential of Dordogne towns, Sarlat, where

newspaper journalists in the UK enjoy referring to communes, 497 are rural. The tourism office is rightly DE PÉRIGUEUX OT BARBOT, JONATHAN © GUY HIBBERT, IMAGES golden and ochre medieval buildings cast deep ❯❯

36 ❘ FRANCE TODAY June/July 2016 June/July 2016 FRANCE TODAY ❘ 37 GREAT DESTINATIONS ❘ THE DORDOGNE THE DORDOGNE ❘ GREAT DESTINATIONS

Sarlat is beautiful, but for those in the know, it is just one of many beautiful places in the

38 ❘ FRANCE TODAY June/July 2016 June/July 2016 FRANCE TODAY ❘ 39 GREAT DESTINATIONS ❘ THE DORDOGNE SUBJECT ❘ EYEBROW

“FIND INSPIRATION IN THE ‘VALLÉE DE LA PRÉHISTOIRE’, AN UNRIVALLED LOCATION FOR CAVES, CAVERNS AND UNDERGROUND TREASURES”

which tell terrible tales of the battles of the Hundred Years’ War. The central Dordogne, to the north of Bergerac, is named the Périgord Blanc, because of the calcaire, the bright limestone that underlies the gentle rolling hills and valleys of open farmland and supplies the characteristic white stone for many buildings, including many striking Romanesque churches. The capital of the Dordogne, Périgueux, with its spectacular Romanesque cathedral and quaint vieille ville (great for shopping), is situated in this department, as is the country town of Ribérac, where a very popular market takes place every Friday. To the northeast of the department lies the Périgord Vert, bordering on the Limousin, where green chestnut and oak forests are interspersed with cattle-grazing pastures. Visitors here head for the picturesque town of Brantôme, with its medieval abbey in white limestone, and the lovely village of Bourdeilles, with its château to visit and where a picnic by the gentle AD PAGE Dronne river is one of my favourite days out.

PREHISTORIC MARVELS Now you’ve got your bearings, the question is, in which direction to head first? Of course this all depends on your priorities. But for starters almost everyone can find inspiration in the ‘Vallée de la Préhistoire’, an unrivalled location for caves, caverns and underground The Dordogne is full of weird cooling shadows over immensely picturesque cobbled treasures. With 147 sites, 15 of which are UNESCO and wonderful castles, such as streets lined with souvenir shops and restaurants World Heritage listed, there’s scope for everyone, but Montfort, each with its own extraordinary tales to tell serving an endless array of local gastronomic atop the many archaeological wonders sits the ‘Sistine specialities – avoiding duck on the menu is simply not Chapel of Prehistory’, the wonderful Lascaux cave an option. Visit Sarlat in the evening to appreciate the network with its extraordinary cave paintings, first romantic lighting and special ambience. Périgord Noir discovered by four teenagers back in 1940. The year is also home to the Vézère valley with its magnificent 2016 brings exciting developments for Lascaux, with networks of underground caves and grottoes, and the the opening of The Centre International d’Art Pariétal Dordogne valley with its magnificent châteaux on their Montignac-Lascaux (or Lascaux 4), a grand scheme pinnacles overlooking the broad, shining river below. blending contemporary architecture and design which This is the heart of the Dordogne that many tourists will offer a full reproduction of the Lascaux cave know and love and return to summer after summer. thanks to new virtual reality and image technology. Beyond Lascaux there are plenty of other underground BASTIDE TOWNS attractions including the original cave paintings at To the west lies Périgord Pourpre, so named from the Font-de-Gaumes, Les Eyzies, the unusually beautiful colour of the grape, as this is home to the lovely city of geological formations at the Gouffre de Proumeyssac Bergerac (of Cyrano fame), surrounded by vineyards and Maxange caves or the chance to go pot-holing at producing the much-appreciated Bergerac Blancs and the Grotte de Beaussac. Rouges, with the sweet wines of Monbazillac grown to the south of the city and less well-known reds such as CHÂTEAUX AND VILLAGES AOC Pécharmant to the east. Périgord Pourpre also Above ground, more traditional but equally uplifting encompasses the numerous fascinating 13th-century architecture awaits, because the Dordogne has more bastide towns such as Monpazier and Beaumont-du- than its fair share of châteaux to visit. From early

IMAGE © MATHIEU ANGLADA © MATHIEU IMAGE Périgord with their unique grid layout and fortifications fortified castles such as the cave fortress at Reignac ❯❯

40 ❘ FRANCE TODAY June/July 2016 Summer 2016 FRANCE TODAY ❘ 41 GREAT DESTINATIONS ❘ THE DORDOGNE THE DORDOGNE ❘ GREAT DESTINATIONS

and the imperious heights of Beynac and Castelnaud SUMMERTIME FUN – FOR for example, should not miss the retro cycle rally Montignac is home to the to the Renaissance masterpieces of Jumilhac and CHILDREN OF ALL AGES leaving from Monbazillac in August. world-famous Lascaux caves and their prehistoric art A FOODIE HEAVEN Milandes, which was built by the Lord of Caumont for The summer season delivers maximum value for family Blessed with fertile soils, enough rain to irrigate and plenty of warm sun to ripen its produce, his wife in 1489 but became much more famous in the holidaymakers with over a hundred events and MORE UNEXPECTED PLEASURES the Dordogne offers an extravagant palate of local produce to tempt you. last century as the home of chanteuse Josephine Baker activities focused on the younger tourists. Under the TO BE DISCOVERED and her children. seductive heat of the Périgord sun there are plenty But often the charm of the Dordogne lies in the Dordogne strawberries are hard to beat (buy them from On a much more modest scale, but no less appealing, of activities to entertain the kids. After they have unexpected. You are driving or cycling and en route any market and be sure to eat them the same day!) Sweet are the typical golden-stoned blue-shuttered villages of exhausted the pleasures of family canoeing why not you take a wrong turn and find yourself in a little and fragrant, with many varieties to choose from – they the Dordogne. The greatest claims to fame lies in the give them a little education about ancient history at village which wasn’t recommended and hasn’t won any even have their own website at www.fraiseduperigord.com Walnuts are a Dordogne speciality, with Appellation fact that no less than ten of the plus beaux villages de the Prehistory Labyrinth, opening in 2016, where they accolades. But as you look around your mystery village d’Origine Contrôlée status. You’ll enjoy them on a classic France are scattered throughout the department. In become explorers for a day. Or visit the Isle river near there’s an irresistible ambience – you have stumbled Périgordine salad – or even better, take back some walnut fact, the Dordogne is home to the largest number of Jumilhac for a spot of gold-panning. For a theme park into a haven where time appears to have stood still oil to dress your salads at home. listed villages in France. Situated 20km from Sarlat, with a gentle French country vibe try Le Bournat for centuries. So you stop for a leisurely déjeuner in Black truffles are a local speciality highly prized by chefs Saint-Amand-de-Coly nestles between two wooded (www.lebournat.fr). And don’t forget that many a sleepy café and admire the sun filtering through the for their delicate, aromatic, yet earthy flavour. The truffles are valleys and is famous for its 12th-century abbey. In the châteaux stage activities and displays with falconry, canopy of an ancient plane tree in the square. You harvested from December to February and sold in markets at Périgord Vert, Saint-Jean-de-Côle’s history is linked jousting and medieval street fairs to enjoy. exchange some friendly words with the waiter and very high prices. with that of the Château de la Marthonie, which Anyone looking for more active pastimes is well watch a couple of old gents sitting and chatting on a Foie gras can divide opinion but there’s no getting away from dominates its main square, while the typical village catered for – the département offers numerous bench near the fountain. On a crumbling ochre wall its status in the Dordogne, where the duck and goose varieties of Saint-Léon-sur-Vézère between Montignac and canoeing, kayaking, cycling and hiking trails for all you notice the faded blue and white painted lettering are served in nearly all restaurants as an appetiser or cooked Les Eyzies boasts no fewer than three castles. Other standards, some, such as the Cro-Magnon Footpath, advertising a long forgotten liqueur while at the foot of as part of a gastronomic main course. Duck features in many shapes and forms within Périgordine villages include Limeuil (overlooking the confluence follow in the footsteps of prehistoric man. Organise the wall a cat stretches lazily in the spring sunshine. In cuisine, served as rillettes (a kind of pâté) on toast as a starter of the Dordogne and Vézère), Monpazier, La Roque- your own ad hoc expedition or join in one of the other words, you slow down, and you let the Dordogne, or cooked as magrets (grilled breast with a sauce) or confits Gageac, Belvès, Domme, Castelnaud-la-Chapelle and many organised events. There truly is something this rich and magically diverse region, fold its warming FT (preserved in fat, served crispy). Beynac-et-Cazenac. TRUFFE CP ECOMUSÉE DE LA NOIX DU PÉRIGORD, PROF. SYND. DORDOGNE, AGRIC. CHAMBRE BARBOT, © JONATHAN IMAGES for everybody – vintage costume and bicycle fans, arms around you. ❯❯

42 ❘ FRANCE TODAY June/July 2016 June/July 2016 FRANCE TODAY ❘ 43 GREAT DESTINATIONS ❘ THE DORDOGNE SUBJECT ❘ EYEBROW

A DOZEN OF THE FINEST DORDOGNE CHÂTEAUX This is a land of castles with any number of grand houses to visit. Here is our selection of the best

The fascinating history of the Dordogne from medieval to modern times is brought to life by the grandeur and mystique of some of its splendid châteaux. When you visit these medieval fortresses, Renaissance palaces and grand family estates you will encounter a rich tapestry, revealing accounts of love and war, ambition and tragedy, fairy-tale romance and escapism. Here is our selection – but many more fine examples await travellers looking for inspiring architecture and remarkable stories from days of yore.

CHÂTEAU DE BEYNAC CHÂTEAU DE BRIDOIRE CHÂTEAU DE BIRON CHÂTEAU DE BOURDEILLES This imposing fortified castle sitting A beautiful 15th-century château near Near Monpazier, in the south of the The site of one of the four barronies on a dramatic clifftop location Bergerac, once neglected but now Dordogne, this dramatic château from of the Périgord, this is an impressive overlooking the River Dordogne has happily in private hands and the 12th century is perched on a château with a spectacular tower seen almost a thousand years of undergoing a small renaissance. Many hillside overlooking the Périgord and overlooking the River Dronne in history played out against its stone restored and furnished rooms to view Agenais countryside. Visitors will the north of the Dordogne near walls and courtyards. It is one of the as well as medieval-style games. appreciate its many beautiful Brantôme. The château and best-preserved in the region. Popular with families. architectural features. surrounding village are worth a visit. www.beynac-en-perigord.com www.chateaudebridoire.com www.bergerac-tourisme.com www.tourisme-perigueux.fr AD PAGE

CHÂTEAU DE CASTELNAUD CHÂTEAU DE HAUTEFORT CHÂTEAU DE JUMILHAC CHÂTEAU DE LANQUAIS In the heart of the Périgord Noir this Closer in appearance to a Loire The Château de Jumilhac is to be In the Périgord Pourpre, this château is a medieval fortress with a military château, the golden age of this found in the north of the Dordogne, dates from the Middle Ages but also history. In keeping with its past life, majestic building in the north of the on the route of Richard the boasts some fine work by Italian today it houses a museum of medieval Dordogne was during the time of the Lionheart. With its picturesque craftsmen who later helped transform warfare. Enactments of Cathar history Marquis de Hautefort in the 16th and turreted Renaissance roofline this some parts of it into a Renaissance take place on Monday, Tuesday and 17th centuries. The beautiful formal imposing château strikes visitors as palace. It has been owned by the Wednesday evenings in summer. gardens are a must-see. the quintessential romantic castle. same family since 1732. www.castelnaud.com www.chateau-hautefort.com www.jumilhac.net www.chateaudelanquais.fr

CHÂTEAU DE MILANDES CHÂTEAU DE MONBAZILLAC CHÂTEAU DE PUYGUILHEM CHÂTEAU DE SAUVEBOEUF A beautiful 15th-century castle in the Here, just south of Bergerac on a A Renaissance jewel in the north of Only opened to the public in 2013, heart of the Dordogne valley, made proud hilltop, you can combine a the region, Puyguilhem is an elegant this is a Louis XIII château overlooking most famous by former owner the pleasant dégustation of the famous building with classic proportions and the River Vézère not far from the American chanteuse Josephine Baker, dessert wines with a visit to the small Loire-esque turreted rooflines. Hard Lascaux caves. The owner will often who lived here with her 12 adopted yet impressive château with to believe it was once abandoned be on hand to share his special children. Famed for its birds of prey Renaissance interiors and views until the French state intervened in interest in prehistoric artefacts. displays during the summer. over the vineyards. the 20th century. www.chateau-de-sauveboeuf.jimdo

www.milandes.com www.chateau-monbazillac.com www.chateau-puyguilhem.fr .com DE SAUVEBOEUF CH. TISSIER, BELLE/FRÉDÉRIC PÉRIGORD DRONNE OT DE MONBAZILLAC, CH. BARBOT, JONATHAN DE LANQUAIS, CH. DE JUMILHAC, CH. D’HAUTEFORT, CH. OT M BOUTRY, PÉRIGORD, SÉMITOUR DES BASTIDES, PAYS DE BRIDOIRE, CH. INTERCOMMUNAL DE PÉRIGORD NOIR, © OT

44 ❘ FRANCE TODAY June/July 2016 Summer 2016 FRANCE TODAY ❘ 45 GREAT DESTINATIONS ❘ THE DORDOGNE SUBJECT ❘ EYEBROW

THINGS TO SEE AND DO IN THE DORDOGNE To find out more We highlight here some of the more popular activities, attractions and places to visit in the region about other sites and things to do visit www.francetoday .com/travel CANOEING The Dordogne is France’s leading département for recreational canoeing, whatever your age or ability. Visitors can explore the delightful valleys of the Dordogne, Vézère, Isle and Dronne from spring right the way through to the autumn.

Canoeing is one of the great recreational activities of the Dordogne

CYCLING Hire bikes and follow cycling trails throughout the department or join in ‘Vélo Paradiso’ – the big cycling event of summer 2016 (20 & 21 A major tourist destination, and a heaven for foodies, Sarlat is considered to be one of the most beautiful towns in all France August) to add some theatre and gastronomy to your cycling experience www.projet-lascaux.com/en/lascaux-4 town centre and stop for lunch to AD PAGE in the Périgord. www.lascaux.culture.fr enjoy Périgordine cuisine with a drop of the famous Bergerac wine. HIKING Gouffre de Proumeyssac www.bergerac-tourisme.com For serious hikers or more sedate Here, at what is the largest strollers there’s plenty on offer. Do underground cave in Périgord, Sarlat it the French way and follow the visitors can get up close to the No trip to the Dordogne is complete ‘randonnées’ footpaths past tranquil beautiful crystalline rock formations Head out of Sarlat to find tranquility in without a visit to the incomparably orchards and riversides. Or try with ambient lighting, or ride in a the Water Gardens charming golden-stoned city of Sarlat. your hand at ‘off-route’ hiking in the suspended gondola to recreate the Take a daytime guided tour to discover prehistoric cliffs of the Vézère valley. Jardins de Marqueyssac experience of the original discoverers the secret coins of the medieval rando.dordogne.fr Ever popular, this is a rather magical of the cave back in 1907. quarter or eat out in the evening www.walkingdordogne.com and romantic garden overlooking www.gouffre-proumeyssac.com to savour the special atmosphere. the Dordogne river with spectacular www.sarlat-tourisme.com CAVES topiary garden and shady walkways. Musée National de Préhistoire Lascaux Cave A summer highlight is to visit on Located in the heart of the great Opening in late 2016 is the Centre Thursday evenings in July or August pre-historic sites of the Vézère, International d’Art Pariétal de when the gardens are candlelit. this museum, with its striking new Montignac – also known as Lascaux www.marqueyssac.com contemporary building, is a genuine 4 – the latest exciting development treasure trove of artefacts and which confirms Lascaux, home of TOWNS AND VILLAGES captivating presentations on mankind’s the world-famous Palaeolithic cave Périgueux earliest ancestors. paintings, as a must-see attraction Stroll or pick up souvenirs in the www.musee-prehistoire-eyzies.fr for any visitors to the Dordogne. quaint streets and markets of the vieille ville, admire the Romanesque Bergerac is a good place to stay, GARDENS cathedral, visit the Art and and another great place to dine out Les Jardins d’Eau Archaeology museum or the Gallo- Think Monet’s garden in the Roman Museum Vesunna for a EVENTS CALENDAR Dordogne! Here, in three hectares of fascinating glimpse into history. There’s always something to see and lush gardens and semi-tropical ponds www.tourisme-perigueux.fr do in the Dordogne, especially during near Sarlat, visitors will discover a the summer months. Be sure to check gardening oasis specialising in water Bergerac out the many art and music festivals, lilies and lotuses. Top tip: accept the Cyrano’s town sits right on the concerts, markets, châteaux attractions, free Chinese paper umbrella to Dordogne river and a boat trip on creative workshops and fun activities The ancient cave paintings of Lascaux ward off the hot sun! a gabarre is always popular. Meander on offer for 2016.

are a must-see attraction www.jardinsdeau.com through the beautifully preserved www.dordogne-perigord-tourisme.fr GUY HIBBERT JARDINS D’EAU, SÉMITOUR, DE BERGERAC, PAYS SARLAT, OT ST-LÉON, APA ©

46 ❘ FRANCE TODAY June/July 2016 Summer 2016 FRANCE TODAY ❘ 47 GREAT DESTINATIONS ❘ THE DORDOGNE

WHERE TO STAY AND EAT IN THE DORDOGNE The best restaurants and hotels in the region, some of which are even in the same house

TOP RESTAURANT SELECTION Charbonnel, Brantôme Getting rave reviews and giving the nearby Moulin de l’Abbaye a run for its money. www.lesfrerescharbonnel.com

L’Imaginaire, Terrasson The French are flocking to eat the new menus prepared by rising star chef Julien Dayre. www.l-imaginaire.fr

Michelin-starred dining with spectacular La Chartreuse du Bignac, part of a new generation of hotels that offer comfort and service in tranquil locations views at La Tour des Vents Michelin star since 2008. Château de Lalande La Tour des Vents, Monbazillac www.restaurant-perigueux.com Charming and elegant rooms await Sumptuous cuisine, impeccable service, you in this impressive 18th-century a panoramic view over the city of L’Imparfait, Bergerac château not far from Périgueux. Bergerac… What’s not to like? Sit outside on a warm day and soak Terraces, gardens, pool and gourmet www.tourdesvents.com up the ambience as you eat classic dining, it has it all. French dishes with a twist at this www.chateau-lalande-perigord.com Les Jardins d’Harmonie, Sarlat Bergerac stalwart. Fresh Périgordine produce prepared www.it-savee.co.uk/wp La Roseraie, Montignac Discover a riverside haven of roses and and cooked with flair and imagination. Visit in May to experience the best romance at La Roseraie The hot ticket in a city with a huge TOP HOTEL SELECTION of the wonderful rose gardens, or any choice of tables. Les Glycines, time of year for country charm on the Le Vieux Logis, Trémolat www.lesjardinsdharmonie.com Les Eyzies-de-Tayac banks of the Vézère. Elegance and bucolic charm Old coaching inn with a contemporary www.laroseraie-hotel.com throughout the house and gardens, Le Vieux Logis, Trémolat design twist, restaurant (see left), spa, and a top-notch restaurant (see left). Summer dining on the terrace is pool and bistro – the best place to Le Moulin du Roc, www.vieux-logis.com a must at this Relais et Châteaux stay near Les Eyzies. Champagnac-de-Belair establishment which gets five-star Trip www.les-glycines-dordogne.com Stylishly converted mill not far from Le Mas de Castel, Sarlat Advisor reviews. Brantôme. Dining in the romantic A bit of a find. Affordable and www.vieux-logis.com restaurant or on the riverside terrace comfortable rooms close to Sarlat. adds to the appeal. Heated swimming pool a bonus. Les Glycines, www.moulinduroc.com www.hotel-lemasdecastel.com Les Eyzies-de-Tayac Refined, contemporary dining with an DORDOGNE ESSENTIALS emphasis on local ingredients gives this former relais de poste its reputation. GETTING THERE Périgordine cuisine comes rustic and www.les-glycines-dordogne.com robust or with Michelin stars BY TRAIN TGV stations in Angoulême, Bordeaux L’Essentiel, Périgueux La Chartreuse de Bignac, and Libourne • TER stations in People come here for a special lunch Monbazillac Périgueux, Bergerac, Sarlat and or dinner. Eric Vidal has held his A beautifully restored property elsewhere. perched on a stunning hillside location, with pool and restaurant – here it’s all BY CAR about relaxation. Périgueux-Paris: 550km • Périgueux- Dordogne www.abignac.com Lyon on the A8: 400km • Périgueux- Bordeaux on the A89: 120km Le Mas de Montet, Petit-Bersac French Renaissance château with BY PLANE wonderful bedrooms and lounges, a Bordeaux airport, Bergerac airport, Le Mas de Castel, a quiet getaway hotel huge pool and a pleasant restaurant. Brive airport

48 ❘ FRANCE TODAY June/July 2016