©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 282 Area Archeologica di Santa boat travel 266-7 Restituta 123 Bomerano 163 Boscoreale 101 books 217, 221, 225, 240 Camp Flegrei 70, 74-5 budget 12, 194 Complesso Monumentale di San Borgo Marinaro 60 Lorenzo Maggiore 39 Buono, Carlo 132 Herculaneum 90‑2, 91, 96 bus travel 265‑7 Lago d’Averno 76 bushwalking, see hiking Paestum 182 business hours 258 Parco Archeologico di Baia 73 Parco Vergiliano 70 Piscina Mirabilis 76 C Camorra 255‑7 Pompeii 93‑4, 96, 98-9, 101-2, 94, A , , , , Camp Flegrei 70, 74-5 Acciaroli 190 7 95 96 98-9 219 Rione Terra 71-2 artecard 68 accommodation 194‑213, see also Capodimonte 62-3 individual locations Scavi Archeologici di Cuma 77 accommodation 198-9 Agropoli 211-12 Tempio di Serapide 72 food 83-4 203-10 Velia 191 shopping 89 budget 194, 259 Villa Jovis 110 sights0 61‑7 Capri 200-2 Villa Roma Antiquarium 172 Cappella di San Gennaro 43, 100 Cilento coast 211-12 architecture 17, 246‑50 Capri 110‑22, 112 internet resources 195 area codes 262 accommodation 200-2 Ischia 202-3 art galleries, see museums & art galleries drinking 118‑19 Naples 34, 195-9 arts 17, 227‑30, see also films, music food8 114‑1 Paestum 210 architecture 17, 246‑50 shopping 119‑21 Parco Nazionale del Cilento 212-13 books 217 sights4 110‑1 210-11 painting 227 tourist offices 121 activities 18‑19, 25‑7, 176, see also diving, hiking theatre 229 travel to/from 121 cycling 266 Ascea 191 travel within 122 planning 25-7 ATMs 261 walking tours 120 spas 26, 123, 126, 128, 129 Capri Town 114 accommodation 200-2 swimming 107 B Agropoli 188‑9, 211-12 Bacoli 73 food7 115‑1 air travel 265 Bagni Regina Giovanna 145 sights1 110‑1 Alta Via dei Monti Lattari 148 Bagno di Tiberio 113 car & motorcycle travel 13, 150, 154, 187, 266, 269 Amalfi 164, 165 Baia 73 Caravaggio 227 accommodation 208‑9 Baia de Leranto 154 Carnevale 18 drinking 166‑7 Baia di San Montano 130 Caserta 24 food 166-7 baroque architecture 248‑9 Castellabate 190 shopping 167‑8 bathrooms 263 castles & palaces, see also villas Amalfi Coast 31, 140‑74, 142-3 Bay of Naples 90‑105 Castel dell’Ovo 60 accommodation 140, 141, 203-10 beaches 27, 141, 176 Castel Nuovo 59 food 140 Bagni Regina Giovanna 145 Castel Sant’Elmo 67 highlights 142‑3 Bagno di Tiberio 113 Castello Aragonese 127 internet resources 141 Baia di San Montano 130 Castello di Arechi 178 amusement parks 77 Il Sorgeto 128 Il Castello 188 Anacapri 111-13, 116-18, 117 Ischia 130 Museo Archeologico dei Campi Negombo 126 Anfiteatro Flavio 70, 95 Flegrei 74 Punta Caruso 130 Antro della Sibilla Cumana 77 Palazzo dello Spagnuolo 68 Spiaggia dei Maronti 128 aquariums 59 Palazzo Donn’Anna 73 Spiaggia dei Pescatori 123 aqueducts 251 Palazzo Reale 55 Spiaggia del Castello 76 archaeological sites & ruins 16 Palazzo Reale di Capodimonte Anfiteatro Flavio 70, 95 Spiaggia della Gavitelli 162 61 ‑2, 11 Spiaggia di Chiaia 136 catacombs bicycle travel 266 Abbazia di San Michele Arcangelo 135 000 Map pages Blue Grotto 118, 193, 8 Catacomba di San Gaudioso 67 000 Photo pages Blue Ribbon drive 154 Catacomba di San Gennaro 66 283 cathedrals, see churches, Duomo (Sorrento) 144 Fanzago, Cosimo 248 monasteries caves Santissima Annunziata 48 fashion 88, 119 Antro della Sibilla Cumana 77 Cilento 31 Ferragosto 19, 261 Grotta Azzurra 118, 193, 8 Cilento coast 190‑2, 211‑12 ferry travel 266-7 Grotte dell’Angelo 183 Cimitero delle Fontanelle 66 Festa di San Gennaro 18, 77 Grotte di Castelcivita 183 cinema, see films Festa di Sant’Anna 129, 138 Grotto dello Smeraldo 166 climate 12, 18‑19 Festa di Sant’Antonino 18 celebrity spotting 119 climate change 266 festivals 18‑19, 138, 141 cell phones 13, 263 coffee 242 film 78, 129 IN cemeteries 66, see also catacombs commedia dell’arte 229 food 77, 129, 141, 147, 172 DE centro storico (Naples) 40-1 consulates 259 music 129, 145, 170 X accommodation 195 costs 194, 259 religious 77, 129, 136, 145 C-H food 78‑80 courses theatre 78 shopping 87‑8 cooking 145, 170 tuna 173 sights 38‑49 language 145 Filippo, Eduardo de 229 Certosa di San Lorenzo 184 credit cards 261 films 216‑17, 229‑30 Certosa di San Martino 65, 100 currency 12 festivals 78, 129 Cetara 173 customs regulations 258 food 16, 23‑4, 239‑45, 259, see also chapels cycling 266 individual locations Cappella delle Crociate 178 books 240 Cappella di San Gaudioso 67 budget 259 D cooking courses 145, 170 Cappella di San Gennaro 43, 100 Dalisi, Riccardo 72 desserts 243 Cappella di San Nicola di Bari 129 dangers 262 etiquette 241 Cappella Sansevero 38 d’Avalos, Maria 238 festivals 77, 129, 141, 147, 172 Chiaia 56-7 debit cards 261 internet resources 239, 240 accommodation 198 desserts 24 pasta 241-2, food 81-3 disabilities, travellers with 264 3 pizza 240-1, shopping 88-9 discount cards 258, 260 17 planning 23-4 sights 55‑61 diving 27 regional specialities 24, 243-4 children, travel with 28‑9 Agropoli 189 football 234 amusement parks 77 Capri 113 Forio 127 aquariums 59 Cilento coast 190 funicular 269 churches, see also monasteries Ischia 129 Furore 164 Basilica di San Paolo Maggiore Procida 134-5 46 Sorrento 154 Basilica di Santa Chiara 39 drinks 274 G Casa e Chiesa di Santa coffee 242 galleries, see museums & art Maria Francesca delle galleries Cinque Piaghe 54 limoncello 240 gardens, see parks & gardens cathedral (Salerno) 178 wine 244 Garibaldi, Guiseppe 224, 224 Cattedrale di Sant’Andrea 164 driving licences 268 gay travellers 259 Chiesa del Gesù Nuovo 44 driving, see car & motorcycle travel Giardini Ravino 127 Chiesa di San Michele 113 driving tours 150, 154, 187 Grotta Azzura 118, 193, Chiesa di San Pietro a Maiella 45 drugs 261 8 Grotta dell’Angelo 183 Chiesa di Santa Maria del Duomo (Naples) 39‑40 Carmine 48 Grotta dello Smeraldo 166 Grotte di Castelcivita 183 Chiesa di Sant’Angelo a Nilo 47 E Chiesa di Sant’Anna dei Edenlandia 77 Lombardi 54 electricity 259 H Chiesa San Giovanni a embassies 259 health 260 Carbonara 68 emergencies 13 Herculaneum 90‑2, 91, 96 Complesso Monumentale dei hiking 25‑6, 160 Girolamini 47 Erchie 173 Amalfi Coast 148, 163 Complesso etiquette 15 Monumentale di San events, see festivals Baia de Leranto 148 Lorenzo Maggiore 39 exchange rates 13 Capri 120 Complesso Museale di Santa Maria Ischia 129 delle Anime del Purgatorio ad Parco Nazionale del Cilento e Vallo Arco 43 F di Diano 185, 188 Duomo (Naples) 39‑40 family travel, see children, travel with 284 historic centre (Naples), see centro shopping 89 monasteries, see also churches storico (Naples) sights 61‑70 Certosa di San Giacomo 111 history 218‑26 Lacco Ameno 123 Certosa di San Lorenzo 184 books 221, 225 Lago d’Averno 76 Certosa e Museo di San Martino Bourbons 222-4 language 12, 14, 271-7 65, 100 independence 224 courses 145 Chiesa e Chiostro di San Gregorio Armeno 46 internet resources 219, 220 legal matters 260-1 money 12, 13, 15, 261 Norman 219-20 lesbian travellers 259

IN discount cards 258, 260 Roman 218-19 limoncello 240 DE Monte Epomeo 129 Spanish 220-2 literature 221, 225, see also books

X X Monte Faito 155 WWII 224-5 lottery 235

H-N Monte Nuovo 73 hitching 264 Lucrinio 73 holidays 261‑2 Montepertuso 163 motorcycle travel, see car & M motorcycle travel I Madonna del Carmine 78 mozzarella 186, 243 Il Sorgeto 128 Mafia, the 255-6 Mt Vesuvius 102‑3, 103, 11 immigration 265 Maggio dei Monumenti 18 museums & art galleries insurance 260 Marina Corricella 135, 8 Accademia di Belle Arti 54 internet access 260 Marina de Casal Velino 191 artisan studios 82 internet resources 13, 107 Marina del Cantone 154, 206 Basilica di accommodation 195 Marina di Equa 155 Santa Chiara 39 food 239, 240 Marina di Furore 164 Casa Museo 128 history 219, 220 Marina di Pisciotta 191 Castel Sant’Elmo 67 Certosa e Museo di San Martino travel 141, 265 Marina Grande (Amalfi) 144, 2 65, 100 Ischia 122-34, 124-5 Marina Grande (Capri) 113‑14 Città della Scienza 73 accommodation 202‑3 Marina Grande (Procida) 134 drinking 131 Galleria di Palazzo Zevallos Marina Piccola 114 Stigliano 51 entertainment 131 Marina Praia 162 Galleria Umberto I 51 festivals 129 marine parks, see national parks & Laboratorio Oste 69 food 129‑31 reserves MAV 92 shopping 132‑3 markets Museo Archeologico dei Campi sights 122-9 Bancarelle a San Pasquale 85 Flegrei 74 tourist offices 133 Fiera Antiquaria Napoletana 85 Museo Archeologico di travel to/from 133 La Duchessa 85 Pithecusae 123 travel within 133‑4 La Pignasecca 54 Museo Archeologico Ischia Ponte 123 Mercatino di Antignano 85 Nazionale 49 Ischia Porto 123 Mercatino di Posillipo 85 Museo Bottega della Tarsia Lignea Islands, the 30, 106‑39, 108‑9 Mercato del Pesce di Pozzuoli 72 144 accommodation 106, 107, 200 Mercato di Poggioreale 85 Museo Correale 144 Museo della Carta 166 food 106 Mercato di Porta Nolana 47, 7 Museo di Filangieri 47‑8 highlights 108‑9 Mercato di Pugliano 92 Museo Diocesano di Napoli 47 internet resources 107 Massa Lubrense 152‑3, 205 Museo Nazionale della Ceramica itineraries 20‑2 Massaquano 155 Duca di Martina 68 measures 258 Museo Pignatelli 60 J Mercato 40‑1 Palazzo Reale 55 Joan II 221 food 78-90 Palazzo Reale di Capodimonte shopping 87-8 61‑2, 11 sights 38‑49 music 228 L Mercato di Porta Nolana 47, 7 festivals 129, 145, 170 La Mortella 127 Mergellina La Pignasecca 54 71 accommodation 199 La Sanità 62‑3 N food 83‑4 accommodation 198‑9 Naples 34-105, 36-7 sights 70 food 83-4 accommodation 34, 195-9 metro 269‑70 Campi Flegrei 70, 74-5 Minori 172‑3 Capodimonte 61-70, 83-4, 89, mobile phones 13, 263 000 Map pages 198-9, 62-3 Moiano 155 000 Photo pages centro storico 38-49, 78-80, 87-8, 195, 40-1 285 Chiaia 55-61, 81-3, 88-9, 198, 56-7 Parco Nazionale del Cilento e Vallo di tourist offices 139 drinking 84‑6 Diano 182-8, 212-13, 184 travel to/from 139 emergency services 89 Parco Nazionale del Vesuvio 102 travel within 139 entertainment 86‑7 parks & gardens 17 walking tours 137, 137 festivals 77‑8 Giardini di Augusto 111 public holidays 262 food 34, 78‑84 La Mortella 127 Punchinello 230 highlights 36‑7 Monte Nuovo 73 Punta Campanella Marine Reserve history 38 Parco di Capodimonte 65 154 La Sanità 61-70, 83-4, 89, 198-9, Parco Virgiliano 70 Punta Caruso 130 IN 62-3 Villa Floridiana 68 puppets 230 DE Mercato 38-49, 78-90, 87-8, 40-1 Villa Rufolo 169, 9 X N-S Mergellina 70, 83-4, 199, 71 passports 265 Q Posillipo 70, 83-4, 199, 71 pasta 241‑2, 3 Quartieri Spagnoli 50 Quartieri Spagnoli 49-55, 80-1, 88, permits 264 accommodation 197‑8 197-8, 50 phonecards 263 food 80‑1 Santa Lucia 55-61, 81-3, 88-9, Piazza Bellini 45 shopping 88 198, 56-7 Piazza Dante 54 sights 49‑55 shopping 87‑9 Piazza dei Martiri 61 sights 35, 38‑76 Piazza del Plebiscito 58 Toledo 49-55, 80-1, 88, 197-8, 50 Piazza San Domenico Maggiore 45 R radio 258 tourist offices 89 Piazza Umberto I 110 travel to/from 89 Piazzetta Nilo 46 Ravello 168-72, 209-10, 169 travel within 89‑90 Pioppi 191 Ravello Festival 19 Vomero 61-70, 83-4, 89, 198-9, Piscina Mirabilis 76 religion 217 62-3 Pisciotta 191 festivals 77, 129, 136, 145 saints 235-8 walking tours 52‑3, 52 pizza 240‑1, 17 reserves, see national parks & Naples, Pompeii & the Amalfi Coast planning 14, see also individual reserves basics 12 regions Ribera, Giuseppe de 227-8 Napoli Teatro Festival Italia 19 budgeting 12 Rione Terra 71-2 national parks & reserves calendar of events 18‑19 road rules 269 Parco Nazionale del Cilento e Vallo children, travel with 28‑9 Roscigno Vecchia 185 di Diano 182-8, 212-13, 184 internet resources 13 ruins, see archaeological sites & ruins Parco Nazionale del Vesuvio 102 itineraries 20‑2 Punta Campanella Marine Reserve Naples, Pompeii & the Amalfi Coast 154 basics 12 S Neapolis Festival 19 Naples, Pompeii & the Amalfi Coast safety 262 Negombo 126 regions 30‑1 Sagra del Tonno 19, 173 Nerano 154 travel seasons 12, 18‑19 sailing 27 newspapers 258 plants 185 saints 235‑8 Nocelle 161 politics 216 Salerno 31, 178, 180 Pompeii 93‑4, 96, 98-9, 101‑2, 94, 7, accommodation 210-11 O 95, 96, 98-9, 219 food 179‑80 opening hours 258 population 217 sights 178‑9 opera 228 Port’Alba 44 tourist offices 181 Oplontis 101, 219 Posillipo 71 travel to/from 181 accommodation 199 orchids 185 Salerno & the Cilento 175‑93, 177 food 83‑4 accommodation 175, 176 sights 70 P food 175 Positano 156, 206-7, 158, 10 Paestum 182, 210‑11 internet resources 176 postal services 261-2 painting 227 highlights 177 Pozzuoli 70-3 palaces, see castles & palaces San Gennaro 237 Praiano 162 Palazzo dello Spagnuolo 68 San Marco di Castellabate 190 Procida 134‑9, Palazzo Reale 55 135 Santa Lucia 56‑7 accommodation 203 Palazzo Reale di Capodimonte accommodation 198 61‑2, 11 festivals 136 food 81‑3 Palinuro 192‑3 food 136‑8 shopping 88‑9 Parco Archeologico di Baia 73 shopping 138 sights 55‑61 Parco di Capodimonte 65 sights 134‑6 286 Santa Maria di Castellabate subterranean Naples 251‑4 V 190 superstitions 235-8 vacations 262 Sant’Agata sui due Golfi 153‑4, swimming 107 Vallo di Diano 182-8, 212-13, 184 205‑6 Velia 191 Sant’Angelo 128 Veronese 227 Santissima Annunziata 48 T taxes 261 Vesuvius, Mt 102-5, 103 Sapri 190 taxis 270 Via Chiaia 61 Scala 170 Teatro San Carlo 86 Via San Gregorio Armeno 45 IN scams 262 telephone services 13, 262‑3 Vico Equense 155 DE Scarlatti 228 Tempio di Cerere 183 Vietri sul Mare 173‑4 X X scuba diving, see diving Tempio di Nettuno 183 villas, see also castles & palaces S-W Sentiero degli Dei 163, 10 temples 183 La Colombaia 128 Sentiero dei Fortini 120 Terme Cavascuro 129 Oplontis 101, 219 Settimana Santa 18 Termini 154 Villa Cimbrone 170 shopping, see individual locations, theatre 229 Villa Floridiana 68 markets theft 262 Villa Jovis 110 shrines 236 thermal baths, see spas Villa Roma Antiquarium 172 Simone, Roberto de 229 time 263 Villa Rufolo 169, 9 Slow Food movement 157, 242 tipping 15, 261 Villa San Michele di Axel Munthe smoking 258 toilets 263 111 Solfatara Crater 72 Toledo 50 Vinischia 19 Sorrento 144‑52, 146 accommodation 197‑8 visas 13, 264 accommodation 203-5 food 80‑1 Viviani, Raffaele 229 drinking 149 shopping 88 volcanoes entertainment 149 sights 49‑55 Mt Vesuvius 102, 103, 11 festivals 145 tourist information 263-4 Solfatara Crater 72 food 147‑9 tours, see also driving tours, walking Vomero 62‑3 shopping 149‑51 tours accommodation 198‑9 sights 144‑5 Capri 27 food 83-4 tourist offices 151 Naples 46, 60, 61, 67 shopping 89 travel to/from 151 Pompeii 93 sights 61‑70 travel within 151 train travel 266, 270 spas 26 trams 270 Giardini Poseidon 128 W travel insurance 260 Negombo 126 Walk of the Gods 163, 10 travel to from Naples, Pompeii & the walking, see hiking Parco Termale Aphrodite Amalfi Coast 265‑6 Apollon 129 walking tours travel within Naples, Pompeii & the Terme Cavascuro 129 Amalfi Coast 266‑70 Naples 52-3, 52 Terme Stufe di Nerone 76 travellers cheques 15 Procida 137, 137 Spiaggia dei Maronti 128 trekking, see hiking weather 12, 18‑19 Spiaggia dei Pescatori 123 websites, see internet resources Spiaggia del Castello 76 weights 258 Spiaggia della Gavitelli 162 U wine 244 underground Naples 251‑4 Spiaggia di Chiaia 136 women travellers 264 Unico Costiera 152 sports 234 work 264 Stabiae 101

000 Map pages 000 Photo pages 278

Behind the Scenes

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OUR READERS Many thanks to the travellers who Josephine Quintero used the last edition and wrote to us Firstly many thanks to Robin Chapman with helpful hints, useful advice and for a great sense of humour, map-reading interesting anecdotes: skills and for sharing hardwon expertise Jenny Arkell, Annukka Asikainen, Laura on hunting down the ultimate slice of pizza Braslins, Hendon Chubb, Steven Cook, Katie perfection, along with the best wines. Also Dokshina, Henning Ericson, Tim Jerram, a mega thank you to my daughter Isabel for Erica Johnson, Raquel Miguel, Sheila Miller, the crash course in Italian and some insider Joe Parlavecchio, Katherine Tildesley tips. Thanks to the staff of all the tourist of- fices, particularly Fabiola Fasulo in Sorrento who went out of her way to decipher complex AUTHOR THANKS ferry schedules. Thanks also to Joe Bindloss Cristian Bonetto and Cristian Bonetto for their troop-rallying As always, a heartfelt grazie to the generous, emails during research. insightful Neapolitan friends who enriched this guide: my ‘Re e Regina di Napoli’, Valen- tina Vellusi, Alfonso Sperandeo, Giancarlo ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Di Maio, Claudio Cornia, Susy Galeone, Raf- Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, faele Scuotto, Guglielmo Muoio, Agostino Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updat- Riitano and the dashing Vincenzo Mattiucci. ed World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Special thanks also to Clelia Santoro, Anto- Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System nio Emanuele Piedimonte, the team at the Sciences, 11, 163344. Complesso degli Incurabili and Elena Vel- Illustrations pp94-95 by by Javier Zarracina. lusi. At Lonely Planet, sincere thanks to Joe Cover photograph: Amalfi Coastline, Bindloss for the commission and to my ever- Campania, Italy, Rissell Kord/Alamy © diligent coauthor, Josephine Quintero. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 279

This Book Commissioning Editor Assisting Cartographers This 4th edition of Lonely Joe Bindloss Chris Tsismetzis, Sam Tyson Planet’s Naples, Pompeii & the Coordinating Editor Cover Research Jeanette Wall Amalfi Coast guidebook was re- Naomi Parker searched and written by Cristian Coordinating Cartogra- Internal Image Research Bonetto and Josephine Quintero. pher Hunor Csutoros BEH Frank Deim, Barbara Di Castro The previous two editions were Coordinating Layout written by Cristian Bonetto, Designer Joseph Spanti Illustrator Javier Zarracina IN

Josephine Quintero and Duncan Managing Editors Brigitte Language Content D T Garwood. This guidebook was Ellemor, Bruce Evans Branislava Vladislavljevic commissioned in Lonely Planet’s HE Managing Cartographers Thanks to Laura Crawford, London office, and produced by Shahara Ahmed, Anita Banh, S Ryan Evans, Larissa Frost, Jouve the following: Amanda Sierp C India, Kate McDonell, Annelies E Managing Layout N Mertens, Trent Paton, Raphael ES Designer Chris Girdler Richards, Dianne Schallmeiner, Assisting Editors Elizabeth Anglin, Pat Kinsella, Joanne New- Gerard Walker ell, Kristin Odijk, Sam Trafford

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