Tubbataha — Pristine Diving in the Text and photos by Michael Salvarezza and Christopher P. Weaver

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Diver with large school of trevally (above); Large marble ray (right)

We came up over a deep. With sandy ridge and yet another vista of “contrails” behind it, the smart car- beautiful hard and soft sized ray lazily swam met our eyes. It was late in the beneath us and over day and the diminished sunlight the ridge leading was quickly turning the dive to the drop-off before disappearing into a dusk adventure. After completely. four dives in the day, we were Reluctantly, we both tired and exhilarated, and agreed it was time for it was time to begin our ascent the safety stop. Tubbataha is a and head to the boat for a well- system lying 177km earned dinner. (110 miles) from the city of on the island while tuna and silvertip hunt along Suddenly, a large section of the seafloor of in the Philippines. Divers the walls. The parade of marine life appeared to move. In the fading light, come here with the hopes of seeing usually does not disappoint. we could barely make out what was large animals; sharks, tiger sharks, happening… until we got a bit closer manta rays and marble rays are often What a reef should look like and spotted the largest marble ray we encountered, along with massive schools But the real treasure that is Tubbataha had ever seen lifting off the bottom and of trevally and striped . Herds lies in its pristine reefs and healthy flapping away into the darkness of the of bumphead parrotfish patrol the reefs, marine ecosystem. For every encounter The reefs drop off into the depths and are adorned with marine life (above); The healthy reefs of Tubbataha (previous page)

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Divers with whale , the gentle giant of the sea (above); An oyster snaps its shell closed when divers approach (right)

with a , there are innumerable Over-fishing opportunities to witness life in the sea as nature For generations, local designed it. Tubbataha is, in fact, a living fishermen were barely able to example of what coral reefs systems around reach these reefs because of the world should look like. the distance from land and the What enables this system of atolls in the capriciousness of the weather. to thrive is a mix of isolation, weather Without motorized boats, patterns and aggressive protection from the fisherman rarely braved the Philippines government. What continues to frequent monsoons, typhoons threaten it, though, remains beyond their control. and rough seas to get here. The three atolls of Tubbataha (the North and But, as inshore reefs became South Atolls, and the Jessie Beazley Reef— an exhausted and better boats emergent coral cay) were formed millions of became available, the reefs at Tubbataha Marine years ago when volcanic eruptions created soon became a target. Thankfully, in 1988, President Corazon small islands, which eventually collapsed back As word began to spread about the Aquino, in response to a strong campaign by into the sea. The fringing coral reefs around productivity of these reefs, dynamite and scuba divers and environmentalists, and with these islands are the atolls we see today. began in earnest as well as the support of the Provincial Government The name “Tubbataha” comes from the more traditional forms of fishing. The reefs were of Palawan, declared Tubbataha a Samal language meaning “long reef exposed under siege. 97,030-hectare (970 sq km) Marine Protected at low .” Area, the first of its kind in the Philippines.

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School of striped barracuda (above); Lionfish (right)

What is unique about This body has Tubbataha is the management implemented and conservation model that strict controls was subsequently put in place. In over access 1999, the Tubbataha Protected to the reefs. In Area Management Board (TPAMB) addition, the was formed as the policy-making season to visit Underwater Adventures in Kinki body for the Tubbataha reefs. It Tubbataha is comprised of 20 members of is largely Daring. Mythical. Alive. national and local government, dictated by the academia and the private monsoons and One of the brilliant advantages of diving in the Kinki region in western Japan is sector. Some examples of the typhoons, with access to tropical diving with a huge range of marine life — even in the winter months. The quality membership include the Office the general of the Governor of Palawan, the window of diving in Japanese waters simply cannot be disputed. In fact, nutrient-rich waters o the coast Philippine Navy, the Philippine extending from March through heavily fined or even prohibited of Kinki mixed with the warm called “Kuroshio” or “Black Current" from the south, Coast Guard, the Philippine June. This short season gives the from working in the park if the make this region one of the absolute best diving spots in Asia. Commission on Sports and Scuba marine life and the reefs time to divers they escort as much as Diving, the Bureau of Fisheries and regenerate and refresh during the touch the coral or harass any of Aquatic Resources, and Palawan off season. the marine life. For divers, this is a State University, among others. All Divers are among the most very strict “no-touch” environment www.dive-in-japan.com of these members are considered frequent visitors and their actions and good skills are important stakeholders in the future are very carefully monitored. essential. We personally witnessed of the reefs at Tubbataha. Indeed, dive guides can be dive guides from a neighboring

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Indonesia Luxury : 6 Cabins - 18 Crews – Asian/Western/Vegan Cuisine – Massage - Eco Friendly

The ranger station at Tubbataha Reef (above); Our expedition group arrives at the ranger station island (right); Meeting the rangers is a special opportunity to learn more about the protection of the reefs (left).

from working in Tubbataha for a lengthy regularly patrol the period of time. park in an attempt to thwart illegal activities. The ranger station This is an essential Besides the diving, one of the highlights component of the of any trip to Tubbataha is a visit to the overall management ranger station located on the North Atoll. plan for Tubbataha. A stop here gives a glimpse into what Our visit coincided life is like for the dedicated individuals with a visit by who reside here for two months at a Angelique Songco, time protecting Tubbataha. Usually, a known locally as “Mama Ranger.” Since Challenging access seas and rough diving conditions. In team of between 10 to 12 men from the 2001, she has been Tubbataha’s park Because of the distance from land, addition, strong currents wash over Philippine Navy, the Philippine Coast manager, and she works tirelessly to Tubbataha is only accessible by the drop-offs of the atolls and can be Guard, the Municipality of protect this very special place. liveaboard dive vessels. While the diving confusingly inconsistent. Divers should and the Tubbataha Management Office For visiting scuba divers, a visit to the is off-the-charts spectacular, this type of be accustomed to open water diving boat scolding a diver who came too is on duty, living in a relatively spartan ranger station gives grateful divers an expedition is not for all divers. Indeed, the in conditions such as these, while being close to the reefs and the ramifications shelter on a small spit of sand virtually opportunity to personally thank those crossing from Puerto Princesa can take aware that Tubbataha affords very little can be severe: A dive guide whose unprotected from severe weather or who are working so hard to keep these as long as 15 hours and can be rough. protection from the surrounding ocean in divers touch the reefs or harass the high seas. They are equipped with radar, reefs so healthy and protected. If there are typhoons in the region, it is bad weather. marine life can be fined and prohibited motor boats and other equipment and not unusual to experience mountainous

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Bubble anemone are favorite macro subjects (left); The reefs are a healthy mix of hard and soft corals (far left); Barrel sponges dominate the reefs (below); The eggs of a Spanish Dancer nudibranch (bottom center); Sabre squir- relfish often are found in cervices and under ledges (bottom left).

Diverse reef life the shallows to the deep drop-offs. We watched transfixed as titan sight, and we even searched for tiny Discovery Adventure liveaboard on Despite these caveats, diving Tubbataha Sheer walls festooned with soft corals in triggerfish scoured their nests in broken shrimp and gobies amongst the whip an expedition organized by the Marco is an almost ethereal experience. From rainbow colors were the domain of the coral plains while Napoleon wrasse corals. Vincent Dive Resort located in Puerto the moment we peered underwater at big animals while clouds of anthias and poked around looking for an easy meal. Galera. The daily routine was quite the reefs, we were enthralled. Gardens butterflyfish flitted amongst the coral We swam by whitetip reef sharks and Diving simple: wake to a very light breakfast, of hard and soft corals stretched from structures. loggerhead sea turtles resting in plain We traveled to Tubbataha aboard the dive, enjoy a heartier breakfast, dive,

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There are a few small wrecks in shallow water (above); The Discovery Adventure liveaboard (right)

lunch, dive, snack and then dive from the main ship to the again! dive sites, usually ten minutes For divers looking for five-star (or less) away. On board, accom­modations and gourmet was available, and all meals, this adventure might the dives were preceded by disappoint. Nonetheless, the a detailed in the cabins were comfortable and main cabin. We never went clean, each with their own air into the water unprepared. conditioning units, and the food was a tasty mix of Filipino cuisine Healthy coral reefs and western-style offerings. Meals and marine life were served buffet-style and In the end, our expedition this was generally a time to find was a resounding success. We special place in the ocean from the Philippine government. divers excitedly talking about counted nine different whale world. It is a real example of how But threats remain. Some, like the just-completed dive and the sharks over the course of the our oceans can be protected climate change, rising ocean wonders they had encountered! journey, along with encounters and what healthy coral reefs and increasing All of the diving took place with manta rays and numerous really look like. acidification are beyond the from zodiac-style RIBs. Teams of schools of hunting trevally and For now, the protections are in ability of the rangers on-site to four to five divers would set out barracuda. Tubbataha is a very place with a strong commitment prevent. A funeral Jorunna nudibranch accompanies a small goby.

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TUBBATAHA

Getting there The only way to dive Tubbataha is by liveaboard, and most depart from the port city of Puerta Princesa on the island of Palawan. Philippines Air Express flies domestic routes from Manila Airport.

Diving and accommodation The authors dived with the Discovery Adventure liveaboard of Discovery Fleet, on a chartered expedition by We left Tubbataha under a full moon, Marco Vincent Dive Resort. For more with flashes of lightning from a distant information, visit: marcovincent.com thunderstorm behind us. The water was calm, and our crossing was quiet and When to go serene. Tubbataha had cast a spell on The dive season at Tubbataha runs us, and we were now forever in its grasp. from March through June only. Aware of the threats that this special place faces, but equally confident that every effort is being made to keep Michael Salvarezza and Chris­topher P. Tubbataha protected, we retired for the Weaver are underwater­ photographers night. Tomorrow, we would begin our trek based in New York. For more information CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Giant school of trevally; Barrel home, but our hearts would remain here, about this and other expeditions, visit: sponges grow to very impressive sizes; Divers return from a in the Sulu Sea.  ecophotoexplorers.com. dive in a RIB; Philippines blenny; The smile of an oyster

48 X-RAY MAG : 94 : 2019 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO NASA Location of the Philippines on global map and Tubbataha Reef on map of the Philippines­ (below); Yellowfin surgeonfish (lower left) (PHP) Currency may full-bodied flavors but is not as spicy be exchanged at the as that of neighboring countries. fact file Manila airport, local Rice, , coconut, mangoes and banks and resorts. plantains are staple ingredients. Philippines Credit cards are widely Filipinos do not eat with chopsticks accepted at tourist but prefer western cutlery or the destinations. Exchange traditional method of eating with a Luzon Philippine rates: 1USD=52.13PHP; just-washed right hand. Sea 1EUR =57.04PHP; 1GBP=64.31PHP; Transportation The gateway SOURCES: ATLANTISHOTEL.COM, CIA.GOV, CDC. MANILA 1AUD=35.25PHP; into the Philippines is through GOV, STATE.TRAVEL.US, WIKIPEDIA.ORG, XE.COM 1SGD=37.73PHP Ninoy Aquino International Airport Text by Walt Stearns (MNL) in Manila. Most international Population flights into Manila arrive between Mindoro History The Philippines have of the Philippines was granted sq km. The terrain consists of vol- Samar 105,893,381 (July 2018 9:00 pm and 3:00 am. As part of been inhabited for tens of its independence. Numerous canic mountains and coastal low- est), with over 12 mil- their services, thousands of years but it was not presidents and varying degrees lands, ranging from sea level to lion living in the capital until 1543 that the country was of political and economic the highest peak, , at Leyte city of Manila. Ethnic Travel/Visa A valid passport Palawan named Las Islas Filipinas in honor stability have followed, but the 2,954m. The Philippines are situat- Panay groups: Tagalog 28.1%, with at least six months left before of King Phillip II of Spain by the country remains independent ed at the northern tip of the coral Bisaya/Binisaya 11.4%, its expiration date along return explorer Ruy Lopez de Villalobos. to this day. The Philippines are a triangle, the epicenter for global Negros Cebuano 9.9%, Ilocano ticket is required for the entry into Bohol The islands were colonized and founding member of the United marine biodiversity. Coastline: Cebu 8.8%, Hiligaynon/ the Philippines. US and European remained part of the Spanish Nations and the World Trade 36,289km. Terrain consists primar- Ilonggo 8.4%, Bikol/ nationals automatically receive Sulu Mindanao empire for more than 300 years. Organization. Government: ily of mountains with coastal Sea Bicol 6.8%, Waray 4% a 21-day tourist visas on arrival. Following the Spanish-American presidential republic. Capital: lowlands varying from narrow to (2010 est.). Religions: Guests staying longer, or those with war in 1898, the Philippines Manila extensive. Natural include Roman Catholic passports of another nationality, were relinquished to the United typhoons, landslides, volcanoes, 80.6%, Protestant 8.2% will need to either contact the re- States and in 1935 became a Geography The Philippines earthquakes and tsunamis. (includes Philippine sort or see: immigration.gov.ph. self-governing commonwealth. are located east of in Council of Evangelical During World War II, the islands Southeast Asia, between the Climate The climate in the Celebes Churches 2.7%, National Health & Security Mosquito- fell under Japanese control but Philippine Sea and the South Philippines is tropical, and the Sea Council of Churches borne illnesses are a problem, and on 4 July 1946, after the United China Sea. The country consists of heat and humidity is greatly in the Philippines 1.2%, there are cases of malaria, dengue

States helped the Filipino people an archipelago of 7,107 islands, influenced by the Amihan (“dry” WORLD FACTBOOK CIA US other Protestant 4.3%), and Zika. Avoid mosquito bites by reclaim control, the Republic spread out over nearly 300,000 northeast monsoon that typi- Muslim 5.6%, tribal reli- using mosquito repellent and cov- cally blows mid-November to deforestation in watershed areas, gions .2% (2010 est.). Internet ering up during times when mosqui- April) and the Habagat (“wet” soil erosion, degradation of coral users: 56,956,436, or 55.5% (July tos are out. Water and food-borne southwest monsoon in May to reefs, and pollution of coastal 2016 est.) illnesses can also be a problem, so October). The monsoons roughly mangroves, which are important be sure to drink only bottled or fil- create three seasons: the hot, breeding grounds for fish. Language The official lan- tered water, and only eat food that dry summer from March to May; guage is Filipino, with eight major is cooked thoroughly. Check with the rainy season from June to Economy The Philippines boasts dialects, but English is widely spo- your state department for current November; and the cool dry sea- an emerging economy, as it transi- ken at most resorts. travel advisories before your trip. son from December to February. tions from agriculture to the service The air averages and manufacturing industries. Voltage The voltage in the Phil- chambers 80°F (27°C) and ranges between Primary exports include semicon- ippines is 220/240 AC at 50 cycles Chambers can be found on vari- 70-90°F (21-32°C) depending on ductors and electronic products, and several socket types are uti- ous islands across the country, in the season and location. Water transport equipment, copper, lized. An international multi-prong cities such as Manila, Cebu, temperatures fluctuate between petroleum, coconut oil, fruits and adaptor is recommended. Batangas City, Cavite, Makati 78-84°F (26-29°C). garments. Roughly 47% of the pop- City, Quezon City and Subic. ulation is employed in the service Cuisine Philippine cuisine has a Environmental issues industry, which accounts for 56% of mixture of influences from Hispanic, Websites Challenges include air and water the country’s GDP. Chinese, American and other Asian Philippines Tourism pollution in major urban areas, Currency cultures. The food tends to have experiencephilippines.org

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