JUNE THIRTY· {oa

FROM ARIZONA HIGHWAYS Our introductory announcement of Color Clas­ B-11 CACTUS WREN & YOUNG 8-5 GAMBEL'S SPARROW HARRY L. & RUTH CROCKETT sics From ARIZONA HIGHWAYS in May issue was re­ HARRY L. & RUTH CROCKETT PHOTO ceived with such enthusiastic response by our read­ PHOTO ers and with so many requests for more subjects that we are now pleased to announce additional 35 mm. color slides on 2" by 2" mounts, made from photographs published in ARIZONA HIGHWAYS, are now available. Color Classic slides are priced as follows: 1 to 1 5 slides, 40c each; 16 to 49 slides, 35c 1 COLOR CLASSICS each; in orders of 50 slides or more, 3 for $ .oo. COLOR CLASSICS ARIZONA HIGHWAYS Order direct from ARIZONA HIGHWAYS, Phoenix, ARIZONA HIGHWAYS

MAO E IN U. 5 , A. Arizona. MADE IN U.S.A.

HARRY L. and RUTH CROCKETT SX-10 Mural Paintings Sacristy, P. 23 Selected Classics Sele cted Bird Classics SX-11 Reclining San Xavier, P. 23 May 1954 issue From Various Back Issues SX-12 Fiesta of San Xavier, P. 24 RAY MANLEY B-1 Gila Woodpecker-Feb. 45, P. 22 ESTHER HENDERSON BF-1 Action in Bullring, Nogales, Sonora, B-2 Arizona Cardinal- Male-Feb. 45, P. 21 SC-4 Spillways-Sabino Canyon, Front Cover B-3 Western Mockingbird-Feb. 45, P. 21 April 54, Cover 4 BF-2 Entrance in Bullring, Nogales, Sonora, B-4 Western \Vhite-winged Doves-Oct. 48, WR-1 Wupatki, April 54, Cover 4 P.9 Front Cover WAYNE DAVIS BF-3 The Torero, P. 10 B-5 Gambel's Sparrow-Oct. 48, P. 9 ST-1 Summer Storm, April 54, Cover 3 BF -4 Patricia McCormick, P. 10 B-6 Inca Doves-Oct. 48, P. 9 W. G. (BILL) BASS WILLIS PETERSON B-7 Audubon's Warbler-Oct. 48, P. IO Wildflower Classics C0-6 High Cliffs Along the Colorado, B-8 Western Mourning Dove-Oct. 48, P. 9 January 1950 issue Cover 3 B-9 Male House Finch- Oct. 48 , P. IO WD-4 Mariposa Lily, Front Cover MATT CULLEY B-10 Black-Chinned Hummingbird-Mar. 49, WD-5 Sand Verbena, P. 13 GL-3 Verdant Vista, Cover 4 P. 5 WD-6 Goldenbush, P. 14 TAD NICHOLS B-11 Cactus Wren and Young-Jan. 54, WD-7 Four O'Clock, P. 15 CO-r Elves' Chasm, Colorado River, Cover 2 Front Cover WD-8 Devilsclaw, P. 16 C0-2 On Colorado River, In Lower Grand B-12 Cactus vVren-Jan. 54, P. 31 WD-9 Desert Willow, P. 17 Canyon, P. 19 ANSEL ADAMS vVD-10 Brittle Bush, P. 18-19 C0-3 Little Colorado River, P. 20 Deatb Valley Classics vVD-11 Ocotillo, P. 18 C0-4 Colorado Through Marble Canyon, October 1953 issue WD-12 Blue Lupine, P. 18 P. 21 DV-1 Manly Beacon, P. 17 WD-13 Venus Blazing Star, P. 19 C0-5 Evening on Colorado in Glen Canyon, DV-2 Kaleidoscopic View, P. 18 WD-14 Locoweed, P. 22 P. 22 DV-3 Sunrise-Bad Water, P. 19 vVD-15 Lupine Field, Cover 4 Selected Classics DV-4 Ruins Borax Mill, P. 19 · ALLEN C. REED June 1954 issue DV-5 North from Dante's View, Selected Scenic Classics JOSEF MUENCH Center Spread Various Back Issues F-1 In the Kaibab, Front Cover vVM-1 Iris in Bloom, P. 10 DV-6 Southwest from Dante's View, P. 22 TR-1 Thunder River, Apr. 50, Front Cover F-2 Kaibab Sanctuary, P. 19 DV-7 29 Mule Team Canyon, P. 22 TR-2 Thunder River Falls, Apr. 50, P. 17 DV-8 Sunrise Desert Hills, P. 23 HA-2 Standing Rocks, Havasupai Canyon, F-3 Sylvan Glen, Center Spread R-1 Kaibab Road, P. 22 DV-9 Ubehebe Crater, P. 23 July 40, P. ro DV-10 Sand Dune- Sunrise, P. 24 V-1 View Mogollon Rim, Oct. 50, Cover 3 R-2 Down Aspen Aisle, P. 22 HENRY BOLLINGER DV-11 Sunrise O ver Death Valley, Cover 3 VR-1 Verde River-Evening, Mar. 51, ANSEL ADAMS Center Spread V-3 Overlooking House Rock Valley, Cover 2 Mission Classics MC-1 Marble Canyon Damsite, Mar. 51, P. 32 San Xavier de! Bae T A-2 Autumn Reflections, Oct. 51, Cover 3 A. A. BERLUTI April 1954 issue GL-4 Lonesome Rider, Apr. 51, L-4 Foxboro Lake, P. 9 SX-1 Mission San Xavier del Bae-Moonrise, Center Spread C. A. MILLINGTON Front Cover SF-3 Winter Wonderland, Dec. 52, P. 29 S-4 Saguaro Sunset, P. 31 SX-2 Ecce Homo, P. 17 WC-1 West Clear Creek, Apr. 53, S-5 Greasewood & Evening Sky, P. 32 SX-3 The Sanctuary, P. 18 Front Cover ALLEN C. R FED SX-4 The Tabernacle, P. 19 WC-2 West Clear Creek Depths, Apr. 53, VR-2 Verde River View-Cover 3 SX-5 T he Mission from the Plaza, P. 19 W AYNE DAVIS Center Spread WC-3 Springs-vVest Clear Creek, Apr. 53, V-4 View from Coronado Trail, Cover 4 SX-6 T he West Tower, P. 22 P. 20 FRANK PROCTOR SX-7 Virgin of the Immaculate Conception, vVC-4 Roaring Rapids, West Clear Creek, Selected Classics P. 23 Apr. 53, P. 23 OC-8 The Gurgling Stream, O ak Creek SX-8 Floral Boss Tn Dome, P: 23 V-2 Winding Road, Mogollon Rim, Jan. 54, Canyon SX-9 Vestment Chinese Brocade, P. 23 P. 19 T\V-1 \ \ 'inter Splendor, San Francisco Peaks

ADDRESS YOUR ORDERS TO ARIZONA HIGHWAYS, PHOENIX, ARIZONA PLEASE OR DER BY NUMBERS ONLY INSTDE FRONT COVER ~ "Overlooking House Rock Valley" ~~..,,-/~-- , Henry Bollinger 1 -==_=__--§_E:_~_=___:-_ f_ ._!_)rl T'S 11 :: ~~ lT N-r~ E ~t ! Il E :••~- - J-J-t{Z § tT N VoL. XXX No. 6 - JUNE 1954 FUN TN THE SUN: If you all are coming out RAYMOND CARLSON, Editor this way this summer, we all would. like to rec­ GEORGE M. A VEY, Art Editor ommend a couple a stop-overs during the The top of the world is found in the Fourth of July holidays. Gotta lot to choose LEGEND high mountain range. There summer is from: Frinstance, namely and as follows: the not so severe. The call of the mountains PowWow at Flagstaff, an all-Indian show that'll "IN THE KATBAB" raise your scalp but not take it off; the Frontier FRONT COVER is eternal, as strong as the call of the sea. JOSEF MUENCH LEADS us TO A Days celebration at Prescott, a right lively cow HIDDEN PLACE IN THE FOREST. Ordinary folks, like you and me, have show in right lively surroundings; and a lot of our choice. And if our choice is the other less publicized doings including the Round ADVENTURE IN NAKAI CANYON 4 mountains we will find their mystery as Valley Rodeo at Springerville. You won't be A SCOUT TROOP FROM THE EAST impenetrable as ever. They are not prof­ lonesome, folks, you won't be lonesome. HAS A LOT OF FUN IN ARIZONA. ligate with their charms. Men who woo And then if you all are happening out this SUMMER . 8 mountains are at least to be commended way in August we recommend with no qualms, misgivings or other foolish emotions the Smoki WHAT CAN YOU SAY ABOUT SUMMER for their high ambitions. THAT HASN'T BEEN SAID BEFORE? Ceremonials at Prescott, sundown, the evening This month (and what better time to of Aug. 7. In case you all ain't acquainted with ARIZONA GRIZZLIES 12 do so what with summer invading the these carrying-ons we would like to say the THESE MAJESTIC ANIMALS ONCE low lands), we visit the Kaibab, that for­ Smoki are business and professional folks of RULED THE MOUNTAIN RANGES. est wonderland north of the North Rim Prescott w ho for years have staged these Indian dances with considerable dignity and beauty for ARTZONA WATER FINDERS 14 of the Grand Canyon. Deer play in the the delight, education and delectation of their lT IS A GIFT. SOME PEOPLE HAVE meadows and there is invitation in the neighbors. Shore is kinda nice. IT, TI-IE LESS FORTUNATE DO NOT. shady recesses of forest groves. The main And, of course, 'long about the middle of the THE GREEN Rom, OF THE KAIBAB 16 road through the Kaibab is tailored to all last two weeks of August (definite dates an­ A TRIP THROUGH A FOREST WONDER- git-out, but, if you will travel at a slower nounced only two weeks before), the Hopi LAND IN NORTHERN PART OF STATE. speed than the road invites, all the beau­ Snake dances take place in the Hopi villages east of Winslow. This ain't no Chamber of LAND OF BEGINNING AGAIN . ty of a primitive forest is yours to enjoy. Commerce come-hither. This is the real thing. AN EXCITING ADVENTURE FOR TI-IE You will like the Kaibab, a mountain and Leave your cameras and bad manners at home. LONELY ONES ON RICH, RIVER LANDS. a forest whose charms contain no bounds. You are the guests of a sedate and dignified EVENING SKIES . 30 They expand their borders and finally people, and we reckon you'll never have an WHEN SKY AND EARTH MFET, THE RESULT spill into the Canyon over the North adventure like that-a-one of taking in these IS SOMETHING FOR THE PHOTOGRAPHER. Rim. dances. COOKING IN THE SUN: We sing a tribute HOWARD PYLE Our interests this month are many and for the lowly bean this month. We have never Governor of Arizona variegated. We go adventuring into Nakai seen among our many Mexican friends, whose Canyon with some boys who whipped up diet accents beans, that malady known as ar­ ARIZONA HIGHWAY COMMISSION headlines last summer because a couple of thritis. The bean has strength, flavor, and is John M. Scott, Chairman . . . . Show Low their group wandered away and were lost wonderfully palatable. Cook it right, ma'am, Fred D. Schemmer, Vice Chairman Prescott for a day or so. and you are cooking like all git-out. Here's Frank E. Moore, Member . Douglas how you all can cook wonderful, gorgeous Grover .I . Duff, Member . . . . Tucson vVe also discuss water finding and the beans: For four: one pound pintos, no soaking C. A . Calhoun, Member . . . . . Mesa practitioners of that rare and ancient art. overnight. Merely wash beans and then put Glenn E. King, Acting Secretary . Phoenix We have a scholarly discussion of the them in boiling water (they get black if you R. C. Perkins. State Hwy. Engr. Phoenix put them in cold water). vVhen beans have Earl Weeks, Special Counsel Phoenix Arizona grizzly (may he rest in peace), reminding one that these hills were once come to boil again, add ½ lb. chopped bacon and one onion. After one hour of boiling add ARIZONA HIGHWAYS is published monthly by the wilder and gayer than they are now. one can solid packed tomatoes, and also pinch Arizona Highway Department a few miles north We devote considerable space to the cayenne pepper plus salt and pepper. If water of the confluence of the Gila and Salt in Arizona. ambitious project of the Indian service boils qown do not add cold water but boiling Address: ARIZONA HIGHWAYS, Phoenix, Arizona. to move Navajos and Hopis to the rich water. After three hours your beans are done. $3.00 per year in U. S. and possessions; $3.50 farmlands along the Colorado River in Serve with sa lad and the blessings of your guests are yours. elsewhere; 35 cents each. Entered as second-class the Parker vicinity. In our opinion no matter Nov. 5, 1941 at Post Office in Phoenix, other project of the Indian Service is so FRONT COVER under Act of March 3, 18 79. Copyrighted, 1954, worthy or has been so successful. We are "IN THE KAIBAB" BY JOSEF MUENCH. The mighty Kaibab Forest covers the huge, flat by Arizona Highway Department. happy to say the Hopi and Navajo fam­ mountain north of Grand Canyon. Most of this ilies, moved far from their homeland area is inaccessible in winter because of deep Allow five weeks for change of addresses. Be with their consent, are doing very well snow, but in summer it is a delightful retreat sure to send in the old as well as new address. · tilling the rich silt that forms the land for vacationers and nature lovers. This tiny pool, shown here, is Kanabownits Spring. Yellow ~ 115 along the river which they have claimed as their new home. flowers peek through the grass to catch the sky's OPPOSITE PAGE reflection and the sun warms the aspen and ever­ "The Country Road" Other than that, our interests this issue greens. This scene is on the road to Pt. Sublime ]. F. Swinger are evening skies and the summer season. on the North Rim of Grand Canyon.

PAGE THREE • ARIZONA HIGHWAYS • JUNE 1954 But, man, was it warm! One day we stuck a thermome­ gave a whirl to cooking dehydrated food; lined up e very­ ter in the sand, and watched the needle jump up t o 1 40. thing we figured would be needed for first-aid equipment. In the shade, t hough, it was only 88. And the humidity Each of us had at least tw o physical examinations, and a registered a dry 20 percent. Actually, the heat w as much dentist carefully probed each tooth in each head. (Maybe more bearable than Iowa in July. Nevertheless, we all he figured w e w ere about to bite off more than w e could acquired that dehy drated feeling, and consumed water by chew?) W e nearly bought out the entire supply of one shoe the quart. (As for feeling dried out, it was in keeping with store's special hiking boots, a nd got to be known on a our food: we brought only dehydrated foods, which have to first-name basis with the local war surplus shops. be cooked in water for quite long periods. It's amazing what It wasn't long until the p arents became as excited as good meals you can make from that ty pe of food: . chili, the boys: fathers, showing obvious longings they, too, might cocoa, a punch-like soft drink, pudding, c orn bread, gmger­ go, began showing up at our planning sessions; little bread, pancakes. It m ay not stack u p t o steak and French brothers developed feelings o f envy, and many was the fries in a gourmet's mind, and our mouths soon began water­ mother who said she would be glad to join us as chief cook ing for malted milks, but it was n ourishing and satisfied our and bottle washer. hunger . . . if not our appetites. T he task of rounding up our food began, arrangements One of the h idden fears most of us brought along was were made for the bus that was to take us, and those in for the snakes and s corpions we heard populate Arizona. charge spent hours poring over maps and charts. T hen came W ell, some o f us did chance across some scorpions, and the night of the final equipment shakedown, a nd, finally, developed a strong respect for t hem; but the only rattler we T H E night itself ! encountered all the time we were in t he canyon was one we We all gathered at a school building, moms and dads met one evening coiled around some brush. We were very standing in t he background as the final briefings w ere given. impolite; we d idn't stick around to get acquainted. T hen, with the blaring of automobile horns, we headed out Your chamber of commerce and weatherman must for Arizona. (In our cars was a scout executive's 1 1th hour cooperate fully: when we left Des M oines the n ight of warning: "Do what you're told, don't anyone get hurt or June 4th, a heavy hail storm h ad just let up, a nd a gentle lost, and have a good time." Certainly, no one counted on rain was starting to fall. It fell off and on much of the any unfortunate incident such as was to mar the trip before night. Next day, we drove under cloudy skies through most we e ven l eft the canyon.) of Kansas. We ran into some fog ( or low clouds) i n south­ Other than t hat it was quite a long trip and t he bus was w est Colorado. When we crossed from northwest New M ex­ filled to capacity with a fl ock of eager boys and leaders, ico into northeast Arizona, it was raining slightly again. there was nothing out of the ordinary about the bus ride. But by the time we reached Kayenta, chugged over 35 T hat is, if there's nothing unusual about getting out and miles of road t o Betatakin, and c amped there that night, we walking now and then. Our first experience with finding had nothing but clear s kies. As a matter of fact, as we the bus developing opposition to hills came early the Sunday peeked out of our sleeping bags, we saw more stars than any of u s ever had seen b efore. It wasn't until we had been in the canyon at least four days that e ven one cloud I I appeared, and a brief shower sprinkled a few drops of wel­ come relief. BY ROD GELA TT Just w hat were w e d oing in N akai? Like the adven­ turers of old, we ·were exploring, h oping to find some old Indian ruins. Judging from some of the reports about our H owdy, P ardner- dentally, because of the many news stories broadcast and trip, one would think we simply decided on the spur of the Just wanted to drop a f ew lines to thank you folks for published in Des Moines about our trip, stemming from moment to drive to Arizona w ithout any adequate p repara­ your hospitality. W e had a g reat time w hile v isiting you, the search for our two lost scouts, Nakai canyon b ecame as tions. Actually, the trip had been planned for a year. It even if we did stir up a minor hornet's nest. And, we ... well known around Iowa a s our own cornfields.) started in the summer o f 1952, when three of the group Say, bet some of you didn't even know w e were around at We're still not sure just how big N akai is; we've been fi rst heard about N akai and entered it themselves. R ight that, your place is so b ig. Maybe we'd b etter explain what told it's anywhere from 30 to 40 m iles long. But we stood then and there, they visualized the 1953 trip . .. a challenge this is all about. at the south end and couldn't s ee the north end; and, suffi ce to an entire expedition. So the idea w as brought back to "We" made up that bunch of Explorer scouts from D es to say, we didn't try to cover the entire canyon. At places, Des Moines, and b egan growing. the outfit that spent a week in N akai canyon, er points, it wid­ Moines, Iowa; we found it comparatively narrow; at oth The boys who were to m ake the trip, Explorer scouts tatakin. (We also came t o be better of sand and sagebrush many around Kayenta and Be ened out into a v ast stretch at least 14 years old, started l ining up the money. Each was known, unfortunately, a s "that gang o f Iowans w ho lost a side t o side. (For boys from the cornbelt, it w as miles from assessed 80 dollars just for the trip; in addition, most of us me of the most rugged t erritory in hat appeared to be a couple of kids in so quite an experience setting o ut for w spent a like amount purchasing the equipment we might North America." ) W e w on't argue that point: it W AS walk a swelteringly cliff a couple of miles away, only to not already have. \Ve began "reading up" on t he ancient e're s orry our expedition gained 95 r any closer. ) . rough t erritory, and w long ways and d iscover we didn't appea Anazai Indian culture, learning something of the history of its publicity because two of u s turned up missing desolate. Those of us percent But not all of the c anyon was of the early Americans w ho roamed that area many hun­ e tw o boys were found ed to fi nd nothing for fo ur days. W e're only grateful th not too familiar with Arizona e xpect dreds of years ago. W e backgrounded ourselves on Indian certainly owe a poncho-full of thanks of that, of course, but safe and well, and we but rocks and sand. W e found plenty pottery, learned to tell a potsherd from an arrowhead. W e Civil Air Patrol. But we also agreed y dotted to the Navajos and your the s pot we picked for our base camp was liberall frowned on anyone w ho didn't know the Basketwcavers s well can boast of the sheer b eauty of northern ewood. There was a n you folk with t rees, m ore than e nough for fir from the Developmental P ueblos. We knew Betatakin, And, inasmuch as we understand m uch of that ling nearby. (H ardly Arizona. ample water s upply in a creek trick w here it was, how it looked, who once lived there, before the the state s till is looked u pon as unexplored, we ottom of a n u pright part of deep e nough t o more than wet t he b last of the winter's snows had melted from the Iowa corn­ of you "natives" might like to learn straddle thought p erhaps some canteen, and so narrow it didn't take much effort to fields. how it impressed u s foreigners from the midwest. (lnci- it, but we didn't go begging for water.) We practiced rapelling down the sides of s teep hills;

PA G E F O U R • AR I Z O NA HI G HWAYS • J UNE 1954 morning we crossed into Arizona. We had found ourselves shutter the thousands of years of erosion and sun and wind and we were now walking over territory none of us had gone of the best stories of my career s1ttmg in my lap, a clear running behind schedule, so rather than head through Albu­ and rain that had produced this quiet giant work of nature. over before. My group suddenly came over a hill and spotted scoop; yet I also . was responsible for my eight boys and our querque and Flagstaff, we decided on a short cut ... a But still ahead was the job of getting to the bottom of a fire off in the west; we headed for it, hoping it would be a leadership already had been cut down because two of the branch highway that swept northwest from south of Santa the canyon. It was impossible to go straight down; we had clue, and thinking it would be but a short distance. But if top leaders had to stay while the search went on. Fe. We arrived at Ship Rock, New Mexico, and found a to walk a slight downgrade the length of one mesa, about a distances are deceiving in the daytime down there, they We began walking out of the canyon after breakfast. gravel road listed on detailed maps ( very detailed), and mile and a half, then double back the same distance. Even were considerably more so at night. And it seemed we If the trip down tired me, the walk back up was mur­ also a sign reading, "Enter at your own risk." Now, this was after we reached bottom we still had another two miles walked many miles to reach the fire. It turned out to be a der! The sun showed no mercy, and the air was deathly about 1: 30 in the a.m. It was quite hot in the bus, and the to walk to find what was to be our camp. We were in trees, huge signal fire the Indians had set; there was no sign of still. I had expected the hike to be rough, and it was. It took road terribly dusty. We rode with the windows closed and there was little wind, and it was hot. We could feel our the boys. We realized we would have no luck searching some of us five hours to climb from the bottom of the handkerchiefs over our mouths, chugging along, no one backs soaking wet beneath the heavy packs, and our walk further at night, and turned back. canyon, our base camp, to the top and walk most of the able to sleep. Suddenly, we rounded a curve and staned was slowed by sheer exhaustion. Right then many of us Again, everyone was exhausted; some of us had been way to the Indian hogan where we regrouped for the ride up a short but sharp incline. 01' Bess just wouldn't make it. realized we just weren't in good enough shape to do all we hiking most of the day, and it still was quite warm. The to the ranger station. Even after we had all lined up taking So out we climbed. At least the air outside was cooler, and had planned, but we thought a good night's rest might cure return walk took an unbearably long time. And, as always turns at a refreshing, cold shower, I still wasn't able to eat we enjoyed that, but when the situation repeated itself three a lot of things. Sure enough, next morning nearly everyone happens when some are more tired than others, we became anything solid: I just drank water and fruit punch half the more times that night, it became a little tiresome. It was started out bright and early on side trips, hoping to make separated into smaller groups. The bunch I was leading night. a mighty weary bunch of boys who pulled into Kayenta 118 a big "find." developed more than its share of difficulties: one boy Saturday morning, two small planes began buzzing the miles and six hours later. But, as was proved before on the But, the big find wasn't found that day; instead, sprained an ankle, another hurt his foot, and a third fell ranger station: the search was on. Another leader and I drove trip, it took only a good breakfast to put the group in run­ many of the boys came in late in the afternoon feeling tired, asleep during a rest stop. But we kept walking, and walk­ into Kayenta, ostensibly looking for our overdue bus, but ning order again. And when we arrived at Betatakin that a different kind of tired. Some of us had no appetite, all we ing, to all appearances resembling Napoleon's army retreat­ also to check with civil air patrol headquarters. We also afternoon, there was no trace of weariness as the boys wanted to do was drink. We began dreaming of ice cream, ing from Moscow! The more we walked the closer we came decided to bring some "civilized" food back to the boys, and scampered up and down the trails, marveling at the almost root beer, ice water. We didn't realize it right away, but we to camp, we thought. But we had taken a wrong turn in the walked into a restaurant to stock up. There was only one indescribable splendor of the ancient ruins hidden so many were enjoying the symptoms of dehydration. We just darkness, turned up the wrong creek bed. Were we lost? woman on duty, and she nearly fainted when we ordered years from the White Man's eyes. . couldn't get enough liquid in our systems. While looking for the others who were really lost? It's not a 40 hamburgers. To speed things up, and pacify her, we That night we had no trouble sleeping; it was cool and As we sat around our campfires our third night in the pleasant feeling, and luckily we got back on the right trail helped cook. Needless to say, when we delivered the ham­ clear, and by the time the first fire was glowing the next canyon someone mentioned that "Bud and Phil" hadn't shortly. burgers, we were acclaimed heroes; acclaimed, that is, morning the boys had to break out their jackets: the tem­ come back from their day's explorations. However, the word But even though· we were convinced we were on the between bites. perature was only 45 degrees. passed 'round that Bud and Phil had planned staying out right path now, we didn't seem to be coming any closer to From that point on, it was a matter of driving back to Then the ride to an Indian hogan where we picked up, the night in the event they should come across some inter­ a familiar landmark we knew was near our camp, and the Des Moines stopping when we could to try learning how and packed up, our eight horses; the hot walk over some esting ruins and couldn't get back by dark. (Whether that outline of which we could see against the stars. By now, the search was going back at the canyon. The boys volun­ three miles of dusty plateau, into a small woods, out onto a advance word really had been given still is questionable.) two of us were half-carrying the boy with the sprained tarily agreed to forego part of their meals in the belief any vast rock mesa, and then the first glimpse of Nakai. At any rate, no one evidenced any over-concern; both boys ankle; it was about midnight, and we'd been on the go money we might thereby save could be added to the rewar'd I doubt that any two of us experienced the same were experienced campers and top scouts, and despite the some 1 8 hours. What if the others had gone to bed and the fund we thought might be needed to further the search. reaction to what each of us saw at that moment: for some it size of the canyon, we couldn't believe anyone really fires had gone out? How would we ever find camp? All And we all were greatly relieved when, during a lunch stop no doubt was disappointing if they had expected something would be lost if they were in the immediate area. (It wasn't we could think of was sleep, and water; most of the can­ in Texas, we learned the boys had been found alive and similar to Grand Canyon. Those of us who had visualized until later we learned how far the boys had walked.) teens long since had gone dry. At last we rounded one more none the worse for their experience. a narrow, straight slash in the earth, similar to the Royal The following day, Thursday, all of us were again back curve and spotted the campfire roaring merrily. We pulled into Des Moines the following Tuesday Gorge, were surprised; so were those who had expected to normal and went our separate exploring ways again. The After we limped in and sat around sipping cocoa, two morning, to find our welcoming committee had been nothing but a Death Valley-like stretch of flat desert. Prob­ day proved interesting for us all, with the result we came to of the boys volunteered to walk the 20-odd miles out of the greatly enlarged: now, in addition to the anxious parents, ably none of us had counted on seeing what actually lay camp quite late in the afternoon to start dinner. As we put canyon to the ranger station and report Bud and Phil miss­ there was a fairly sizable crew of reporters and photogra­ before us; it was different than anything we ever had seen on a pot of water, one of the other leaders called me aside ing; we leaders reluctantly agreed, in the hope more experi­ phers on hand. Nakai canyon had made a name for itself! before, and coming upon it as we did ... having it stretch and said, "Bud and Phil aren't back yet; we'd better organize enced search crews could be organized and on the job by Now that it's over, I think none of us would trade the like a giant, endless breach in the earth as far as the eye a search." Needless to say, we cooked and ate that meal in the time the rest of the expedition was ready to leave. For expedition for any amount of money. Many of us already could see, suddenly spread open like a book as we broke jig-time, checked flashlight batteries, strapped on our first leave we must: our food was running low, and although we are talking of a repeat trip. We like your state; we had a through the curtain of trees ... was breathtaking. We all aid kits and rope, and started walking. Our two Indian hated to pull out while the two boys were missing, we had rough time, but a good time. We found you have a lot of hurried to drink in the picture with film, to capture the guides had gone ahead on horseback. We covered about no other choice. For me it was a particularly tough decision: good folks. vast feeling of desolation, arrest in the speed of a camera's five miles the first hour, even though it soon was pitch dark, as a newsman ( on vacation, but still a newsman), I had one Thanks for letting us visit you!

PAGE SIX • ARIZONA HIGHvVAYS • JUNE 1954

Their range was naturally at a higher altitude than the The dune cave.ct and slid beneath the bear's weight. Grizzly bear Black bear American black bear's, but often they dropped down into Forgetting the lobe of cactus, the bear leaped along the front claw front clacw the blade's natural range for food. crumbling sand and made several lunges, each followed In picturesque Luna Valley, a little over the Arizona­ by a dive and an abrupt stop in the sand. Now, the bear ran Right rear Right front New Mexico boundary in New Mexico, lives Vain G. Snyder. in a circle around the top of the dune several times, often foot foot He hunted with the famed Ben Lilly many times. In fact, corning to a sudden stop to look around. Suddenly, the griz­ he was sort of Lilly's camp boss for a while. Mr. Snyder told zly stopped his play. me of some of Lilly's observations regarding grizzlies. He stood quiet at the base of the dune for a time and Lilly said the grizzly was king of the mountains-or looked far off into the distance. Then, he decided to leave, anywhere else he chose to be. He said he never saw a grown started off slowly across the sand, disappeared among the grizzly of either sex turn off-trail for a mountain lion-no other dunes. matter how large the lion-nor had he ever found tracks No doubt you have often heard-perhaps seen in print of a grown grizzly that had. He had found tracks where -that a grizzly bear "hugged" his victim to death. Those the lion had off-trailed for the grizzly-where the grizzly who have watched them closely say the grizzly does not hug ARIZONA GRIZZLIES had actually taken the food right out of the lion's mouth! -but "slaps." Either way, the results are unpleasant. Of course, no black bear was any match for a grizzly. It was In early times the grizzly bear's hide never had a very BY GASTON BURRIDGE Lilly's opinion, also, that no grown Sonoran grizzly ever off­ important place in the fur trade. A skin used to bring DRAWINGS BY THE AUTHOR trailed for a jaguar-at least he'd never seen any tracks to only five dollars! The Indians used them, among other indicate such. things, as doors for their tepees. In 1920 a grizzly hide Should you hope to find a grizzly bear-wild and self-fed, one was plenty of bear in a fight! The grizzly took what he wanted, when he wanted it, brought only $150. I wonder what such a hide, bagged in that is-in Arizona today, your chances of doing it are As his Latin name, H orribilis, indicates, the grizzly and asked no questions nor gave explanations. He gave no Arizona, would bring today? about the same as meeting a four-armed bandit on the same was a horrible bear. Especially when roused. Stewart Edward proof of ownership except his brute strength. That was suf­ Did men ever eat grizzly bear meat:i Any sort of bear range. There have been rumors of a few-but so far, they White says, "When roused, the grizzly is the most danger­ ficient. Only man's high-powered rifle gave him pause. meat is supposed to be good to eat-if properly cooked. I are only rumors. If you go hunting for grizzly bear stories ous animal in all North America." Always sly and crafty, But wait a minute. Perhaps we are going a little fast guess most folks never have had any that was "properly in Arizona, you will have good hunting and fine results. the grizzly was also extremely fast on his feet for so big right here. Yes, there was an animal for whom the grizzly cooked" then, for I have found no one who cares for it. No There are many of those. Arizona had many grizzlies once an animal. So fast, in fact, a hunter had little chance to run would off-trail, and quick! That animal was the skunk­ doubt, how hungry a person is makes some difference. One upon a time. away from him. incense burner of the forest. JVlr. Skunk went unchallenged old grizzly hunter named Dave Brown knew what he thought The best grizzly story I have heard-so far-was told Unlike the American black bear, the grizzly was too -unmolested-by the grizzly. about it. He said, "B'ar meat is the bestus in all the mountins. to me by David Dickinson, Cottonwood, Sedona and Verde heavy to climb trees very far-so, given enough time, a man Tracks show that the bear would make a wide detour B'ar skins makes the bestus beds and thar grease, the bestus Valley's· able and charming entrepreneur. could shinny up a tree and be safe. around the skunk if possible. If not possible, the grizzly butter. Biscuits shortened with b'ar grease goes as fur as According to Dickinson, in the early days of Oak Creek The average male grizzly weighed about 600 pounds would get off the trail as fast as he could and lie down­ beans. Why, a man kin walk all day on one o' them thar Canyon, before there was an automobile road through that but the vVhite iVlountains occasionally grew some to 800 pretend to be playing with something or tagging the low­ kind o' biscuits!" beautifully sculptured gorge, there lived in its upper reaches pounds and two in Arizona have been estimated at , ooo hanging branches or leaves. Nobody believes he thought he Little is known about the love !ife of the grizzly bear. an old hunter named Kip Whaley. vVhat money Kip needed pounds-which is some bear in anybody's language, in any­ was fooling the skunk much-much less the skunk. They mate in midsummer, their cubs are born in hiberna­ for flour, sugar and coffee, he earned by hunting grizzly body 's country! And in this connection we find one of those strange tion, or, in Arizona and other warm winter climates, when bears, and selling their hides in Flagstaff. Kip grew to be Hugh 0. Cassidy, Forester for the Apache National circumstances of Nature. The mountain lion will off-trail the bears are not active. The Arizona grizzlies hibernated pretty good and built himself a reputation as a bear hunter. Forest for nearly 40 years, wrote this remembered incident. for a grizzly. The grizzly will off-trail for the skunk. But each winter but their sleep was not like that of their colder­ One summer, a couple of "schoolmarms" from "down It was in the Autumn of 1920. He said he had ridden the mountain lion won't off-trail for the skunk. The moun­ climated cousins. Ben Lilly tells about one grizzly he east" came out to Flag, the better to get acquainted with the into a sheep camp over near Baldy Peak, where he found tain lion eats the skunk! watched all one winter up high on the side of Escudilla west. They hired a local cowboy, at the moment foot-loose, the Mexican herder in a state of extreme excitement. This In his book, "The Grizzly, Our Greatest Wild Animal," Peak, above Alpine. He said this bear made twelve trips to guide them about the country. The cowboy thought of old Latin told Cassidy he had a mare and her colt running Enos A. Mills tells about watching a grizzly at play on the in and out of its cave during its lay-up. He noted the bear Oak Creek as a good place to show off his region to best loose in the cienega in front of his camp and upon return­ edge of the desert in northwestern Arizona. He was sur­ drank water while outside but took on no solid food. advantage, so guided his two patrons into its beauties. He ing there from the sheep herd found a big grizzly near b_v prised to find a grizzly in this location and remarked that Of course, there had to be a last grizzly bear killed in was pleased at their "Oh's and Ah's!" trying to catch the colt. The shepherd said he charged this this one, at least, showed it was not dwarfed nor unhappy Arizona, but to find where that last one was killed, who Once on the canyon floor they soon came to Whaley's big grizzly on horseback, but the bear just stood up on its by the harsh conditions of the environment. killed it and when, has developed to be a task of no mean ranch. As sometimes luck will have it, Whaley was home. hind legs, waved its arms and looked fi erce. "Then," said Mills recounts he was sheltered in the lee of a rock­ proportions. There is no proof! The best evidence is con­ Kip made his appearance at the sound of the horses' hoofs the Mexican, "I left! The mare and colt left, and I guess outcrop waiting for a heavy wind and sandstorm to subside. tradicted by other good evidence. There are even some who -looking much like a grizzly bear himself. the bear left too." Looking off into the dusty distance he saw a brown, dust­ say there still are grizzlies in those fastnesses of Sycamore Said the cowboy, "Ladies, I'd be proud to have ya meet Some days later Cassidy was again passing this sheep covered grizzly come in sight. The bear climbed to the top Canyon and the Apache Reservation parts of the White up w ith Kip Whaley, the best doggone grizzly bear hunter camp. There was a huge grizzly hide nailed to dry on the of a large sand dune and sat down, looked around and Mountains! A great array of excellent authorities, whose ex­ in these-here parts." wall of the old log cabin. The Mexican herder had obtained watched a dust-spiral spinning across the sand toward him. perience and training should carry much weight, say they do "Oh," exclaimed one of the schoolmarms, "how thrilling. a rifle from somewhere and killed the bear. As the little twister passed the bear, it dropped a lobe not believe there are any grizzlies left in Arizona-nor A real grizzly bear hunter! Mr. Whaley, won't you tell us What did the Arizona grizzly bear eat? Well, they ate of withered cactus which tumbled to a stop below the bear have there been for many, many years. of some of your narrow escapes:i" almost everything. Their diet included grass, roots, grubs, after turning over a couple of times. The bear took after it, Arizona is a big state. It is full of wonders. It is full of Whaley shifted his tobacco cud to the other cheek, ran berries, nuts, insects, snakes, fish, frogs, birds eggs, small striking out at it with a front paw. The paw missed but the remote areas where man's civilization has spread mighty thin. his red tongue around his lips, looked up at the teacher and and large animals, from mice to full-grown cattle-and, yes, bear was upon it with a plunge. Picking up the piece ginger­ Arizona could have another wonder-a ·wonder it does not replied, "Hell, lady, I ain't never had no narrie escapes­ carrion. Food the grizzly could not finish off immediately, ly with its teeth, the bear held it a few seconds, then tossed know it has-the wonder of a live, free, grizzly bear living but some a them grizzlies hev!" he cached for three or four days by rooting up dirt and it with a lift of his head and pursued it once more. ·within its borders. It could have a four-armed bandit, too! Arizona had two species of grizzlies-Ursus H orribilis debris along its sides. Thus, he put his brand on it and woe lmperator, the more common, often known as "Silver-Tip," unto anyone, or anything, caught molesting it. He'd best and Ursus Horribilis Horriaeus, or desert grizzly-some­ be most fleet of foot! times called the Sonoran grizzly. A grizzly would range from 20 to 2 5 miles looking for The desert grizzly was a little smaller, his skull a little food. If it were hard to come by, some experts say he Black bear Grizzly bear higher at the eyes. He was often lighter in color and apt would go as far as 60 miles. This bear liked the high, rolling to be sunburned or bleached atop the back and head. Either uplands interspersed with rocky ridges densely thicketed.

PAGE TWELVE • ARIZONA HTGH1VAYS • JUNE 1954 this is not the only way it might have been done-nor even say, "This location will produce so-and-so gallons per minute, the best way, perhaps-nor the way any one of ten. other or more." Mr. Gist will say whether he thinks a dowsed dowsers might do it. It is just an account of how It was location can make a "domestic well" or an "irrigation well." done. But principles remain the same-only details differ. If an "irrigation well," he will say whether it may be "poor," I picked up Aubrey Gist at his Prescott home a little "fair" or "good." In this case he found "lots of water." before eio-ht a.rn. Soon after, we headed north into moun­ Mr. Gist follows the above procedure at each location. tain and bvalley country. At a proper side road we right­ If found suitable, the location is appropriately marked. He turned and it was not long until we were before a com­ made six locations on the above basin and we were back in fortable lookino- ranch house. After some discussion with Prescott at 1 2: 30 p.m. The location chosen to drill over the owner it v~s decided we should drive to the location showed only a little less water than the best but was much the owner wished dowsed in the ranch truck. more advaritageous to the rancher. The top of the ground As we came to the edge of the location Gist asked to is often of much different shape than where the ·water lies! have the truck stopped. Alighting, he poised his forked How does one pick a good dowser? It isn't easy. One stick high, facing east or perhaps some northeast, and should use as much care in selecting a dowser as a surgeon waited a few seconds. He got no reaction. He turned a little for a major operation. to his left, or more towards the north and after letting go The first thing is to interview several dowsers. Any one side of his fork, again poised it high and waited a few good dowser will be glad to give you references-not one, seconds. This time the fork dipped. Gist continued this but several. Call upon these references personally, if possi­ turning a little farther to his left, each time letting loose in action ble. A dowser should be familiar with your part of the one side of his fork, then poising it high again, until he country. At best, he will have already located several wells got a reaction. Finally, he had described almost a I So- for others there. He has an established reputation and he . deo-ree arc from the point he began. I noted Gist worked wishes to keep it good. He will be frank. He may give you wi~h his eyes closed. I stood close enough to him to hear information you will not care to hear. Remember, he can the stick squeak in his hands as it went down, but did not not find water if it is not there and he can't locate it any speak to him while he worked. This was a phase of long­ closer to the surface than it is. Do not hesitate to ask que;­ ater, that marvelous stuff! More of it flows the dowser's powers, but as an observer. I think I have se~n distance dowsing. tions-lots of them. He should be willing to be on the spot through the deep dungeons of the earth every kind of locating device there is, from a common wil­ After several other dowsings, Gist said to the ranch when the well is "spudded in," to be sure it is "on location," than you think but how to find where it low fork, up through and including a $10,000 "electronic" owner, "You have a basin of water about ¾ of a mile long, especially when the bore is to be made through rock into a flows is the question. There is countless machine! I believe I've listened to as many methods, heard as about ½ mile wide. It is roughly oval in shape but has vein. If the well happens to be a very deep one, he should proof that some among us can find where many theories, as many explanations, as many experiments several 'fingers' extending in as many directions. Now, if be willing to visit the bore several times during drilling for it flows. We should know more about as any man in the Southwest. I have witnessed "map dows­ you will drive us to those places you would like to have checking and for information. Such information is valuable them. Water is the most abundant fluid on ings," "long-distance dowsings," have been on actual locating wells we will see if there is water under them, or near both to you and to him. Keep a copy of the log of your well. the planet. It. is the gr_eat dissolvent,. a1:d beca1:1s~ it is: it jaunts for water, oil, minerals and buried treasure. I've them." Very often, the log of a well contains information of ge?­ fouls itself quickly. In 1ts fresh state It 1s the elixir. of life. heard of all sorts of "mistakes" dowsers have made. I have At the first location Gist tried his forked stick for logic conditions unknown before. I have known cases m Probably, it is Arizona's most sought substance. It 1s more taken the trouble to do some investigating and now I can water reactions and got good ones. Then, he took from his Arizona where a water well drilling uncovered mineral valuable than all the state's minerals combined. Without match those tales with "mistakes" both well drillers and box another gadget. This device is in the form of a "T" deposits that had no surface showings whatever! it the commonwealth would be nearly worthless. With more geologists have made! about a foot long, both ways, and is made of ¾" round How much will a good dowser cost you? Very often of it come power, wealth and comfort. . Most dowsers I have met believe the dowsing instinct, wood. On each arm of the "T" is a small glass bottle filled they can save you several times their cost. Their fees vary. As I write these words I can look over at a picture. It ability, power, "atunement" or whatever it is, comes to a with water. On the bottom stem of the "T" is a wooden The highest fee I have heard asked in A rizona was $300 is of a stone carving that came from another land of sun­ person with birth. But they also believe this innate ability disc about two inches in diameter by one inch thick. The per location, one half payable at completion of the dowsing, shine-Egypt. This carving was perhaps part of a stone can be developed, its use expanded, by study and practice. "T" is used upside down. It is held by the finger ends of remainder payable when well was drilled and proven. frieze in an ancient Pharaoh's tomb. Those who know about Many people have the ability but don't know it, never each hand, the fingers of one hand not touching those of Some dowsers charge $2 5 per location and "expenses." such things say this stone was carved before 1 200 B. C. having had reason or opportunity to try it. Some students the other. Sometimes these small fees prove to be dear. Most fees are It clearly shows a "Water Witch," forked stick in hand, of the matter believe about one perso n in every I ooo has When over water, this device wishes to turn "clock­ payable on completion of dowsing with return of the fee locating water. The photographs on these pages were taken some dowsing ability, that one person in about 10,000 has wise" on .Gist's fingers. Each complete turn represents so guaranteed if no water is found at any specific location in Arizona only a few weeks ago. They are of a modern enough of the ability to become a good dowser. And I many feet from the surface to the top of the water stratum dowsed. Some dowsers guarantee nothing. Some dowsers "Water Witch" locating water in the mountains north of would like to. point out right here, there is a vast difference when multiplied by a constant. This constant was first work on a flat fee of $50 per day and will make as many Prescott. between a dowser and a good dowser! I feel most of the determined by Gist from working over water at a known locations as possible for the owner. On such arungements There are more than 3 200 years between these two so-called "mistakes" attribtited to dowsing have been made depth and calculating backward, then checking these figures "expenses" are, of course, additional. "Expenses" average men doino- the same thing, probably in the same way. Those by dowsers with insufficient dowsing ability, or skill in the many times for accuracy. about $ 15 unless a dowser comes from consi derable dis­ 3 200 yea1~ have brought little understanding to the rest of use of what ability they have, to carry them over the hard When the distance to a water stratum is reached, the tance, then they will run higher. Any good dowser will be mankind why some of us can locate underground water­ spots. Personally, I feel the figure of one person in 10,000 device wishes to pause. If held quietly, in about half a willing to discuss fees frankly with you. All labor is worthy why most of us can not. Science has chosen, in this country having enough ability to become a good dowser is too gen­ minute it will wish to turn "anticlockwise." If these com­ of its hire. at least, to look askance at "Water Witching," so the erous. I think it is closer to one person in 20,000. plete turns are counted, until the device again wishes to Dowsing is a very controversial subject. There are majority of us are about where ancient men were 3200 I do not wish to infer dowsers, even good dowsers, do pause, they will represent the distance from the bottom of many who violently disbelieve in it. There are still some years ago. not make mistakes. They do. To err is human and dowsers the water stratum to the surface, when multiplied by the churches that count dowsing as the "work of the devil." Whether the process of locating underground water are human-even though many of their antagonists would constant. If, from this figure, one deducts the figure arrived Much-not all-of science in this country appears to think is a science or an art can be a moot question. The phenome­ like to deny them that also! Any man who does anything dowsing unworthy of any of its investigative time. But non goes by several names-"Water Witching," "Well very long will make mistakes. If he does not he will have at from turns counted and multiplied to the top of the Witching," "Water Divining," "Dowsing," "Doodle-Bug­ missed one of the greatest opportunities life has to offer. water stratum, the difference is the thickness of the water despite such hindrances as have been, and are being, thrust ging" and a new one called "Radiesthesia." Whatever the What interests me much more is why the mistake dowsers stratum itself. in its way, it still persists. Any practice that has come down name, the processes are so similar only an expert can call make are remembered so long and so well while those well Mr. Gist does not attempt to estimate gallons per through at least 3 200 years must have much more basis than the difference. drillers and geologists make are forgotten so quickly . minute a dowsed well will produce. Some dowsers do. I "muscle twitching"! The growing need for water should give I have been interested in the dowsing phenomenon How does a dowser go about locating water? Perhaps have records of extremely accurate estimates made by us all pause to fully consider any of those who may find it for nearly 40 years, not as a participant, for I have none of a little story of how it was done recently will show. Now, dowsers at the time of their dowsings. Other dowsers will for us.

PAGE FOURTEEN • ARIZONA HIGHvVAYS • JUNE 1954 THE 6RE En RO Of Of THE KAIBAB

BY JOYCE ROCKWOOD MUENCH PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOSEPH MUENCH

Roll the Paiute word, "Kaibab," over your tongue a few The world's largest stand of virgin Ponderosa Pine, times to get the unique flavor of the Indian name for a very shoulder to shoulder with thick woodlands of Douglas Fir, special place. Pronounced "Ky -bab," it's short for "The Spruce, and Aspen, wears garlands of flowers in spring, and Mountain-Lying-Down," a lofty, imposing headland, jutting summer weaves her gentle magic over them. Aspens flaunt into the northern Arizona sky, that wears as a living mantle their gold in autumn against the blur of conifers, and in one of the most splendid forests known to man. Just as winter the whole forest is wrapped in white, shutting ouJ you'll find the title in no other region, so the rare beauties all but the hardiest visitors, ·w hile the mountain sleeps. of this mountain, segment of the soaring Colorado Plateau, Though far inland, the pounding of waves can be are repeated nowhere else. heard here, as winds rush through the upper balconies of There is no rocky, storm-swept summit and all its ele­ tree tops in a sea of surging sound, while on the soft carpet vations, from 5000 to 9000 feet above sea level, are under the underneath, many animals step cautiously. Big Kaibab deer, green roof that stretches a generous fifty-five miles from of spreading antlers and gleaming coat; rare ·w hite-tailed north to south. You can drive your car the whole length, Kaibab squirrels, which live nowhere else; mountain lion and along sunny corridors, through airy cathedrals, bathed in the bobcat are at home, and congregations of birds, singing crystal-clear, heady air of the highlands. No king has ever peons of praise, are part of its li lting charm. been able to boast a park so expansive as these deer-filled For generations, the Paiutes had claimed the region as forest aisles, mellowed by hundreds of years of Arizona their fall hunting grounds and it was they w ho guided the sunshine. first white men over the confusing terrain, leading to peren-

PAGE SEVENTEEN • ARIZONA HIGHWAYS • JUNE 1954 nial springs and pointing out the easiest route back down On every hand, brown trunks stand tall and straight into the desert that girdles the cool heights. as the masts of ships, soaring up to be lost in the dark ceil­ From the Prismatic Plains to the north, U .S. Highway ing, through which the blue sky can be more felt thaI:.J. seen. 89 makes a gliding start, easing up over Le Fever Ridge to The feeling of spaciousness and order comes from the very bring the visitor deep within scented groves, forest arms nature of the pines themselves. Tolerating only their own around him, before he is aware of having climbed a moun­ kind and demanding room to lift great branches, the Pon­ tain. Then it turns willfully away to the east and switch­ derosa uses acid in its fallen needles to kill out all but its backs dow n again in view of sunburnt House Rock Valley. young, that stand gawky and limber in small bands. They Few see the w estern escarpment, a wilderness of cliff and resemble their parents chiefly in lovely rosettes of long gorge, but on the south the Kaibab is sliced off sheer in the needles, catching the light in a sunburst and scattering it world-famous climax of the North Rim of the Grand Can­ like a glowing sparkler. Crow ded nurseries gradually thin yon. out, leaving just the strongest trees, with clean boles, self­ Because of this spectacular denouement, the forests are pruned as shaded lower branches drop off. Free of under­ less well known than they deserve to be. Most people are in brush and singularly inviting, these open parks are distinc­ such a hurry to get there, they think of the Kaibab merely tive features of the Kaibab. as a convenient approach and, leaving, view the tranquil Dominant tree of the mountain, the Ponderosa is a stretching green as little more than a soothing relief from bold explorer, often seeking out the most exposed and the tumt1lt of color and form in the canyon. prominent posts to spend its five centuries, defiant of crip­ Those bared cliffs of the Colorado River's immense pling storms and scarring lightning bolts. But in the rolling chasm blare out one of the secrets of the Kaibab, showing highlands, among its fellows, this is a tree of peace and dramatically the 800-foot layer of Kaibab limestone which dignity, reaching to more than one hundred feet and noble caps the entire mountain. Laid down in ancient times, under in a sheathing of golden plates, symbol of maturity. the waters of a vast inland sea, the stone is built of bodies At higher elevations, the forests become more dense, of marine creatures and acts as a sponge, so thirsty for favoring Engelmann and Blue Spruce and Fir. Of a more con­ melted snow and summer rains, that no running streams are ventional turn of mind, these conifers taper gracefully in to be found on the great plateau. . Christmas Tree contours. They take par ticular delight in If the unusual formation were not enough to set the decorating long meadows, offering v istas quite in contrast headland apart from others, there are further, countless sinks, to the pine woods, but altogether lovely. Again, the word where the limestone has dissolved out in seeping water, and park comes irresistibly to mind, as green swards sweep, dropped to form basins for delightful miniature lakes, wide and spacious, or bend coquettishly out of sight to ensconced in emerald green meadows, tucked away among lure visitors farther among their company. A sink may be the trees. the center of interest, reflecting a rolling pageant of clouds Indian legend, as usual, has a colorful explanation for in its tinted bowl, or again, w here grass has swallowed up the inconsistencies of this beloved mountain. Paiute chil­ the water, green waves lap against forest walls that rise in dren early learn that the Great Spirit built the Mountain­ tiers from tiny trees, edging timidly into the open, to pyra­ Lying-Down, planted it with vegetation and stocked it with mids of taller forms, painted a dozen shades of green. deer for the very special benefit of the tribe. It was to be Cattle grazing is permitted only in the National Forest, their hunting ground in the fall, when they would shoot the but the meadows know nothing of such arbitrary boundaries, deer, already fat for winter, play their games of chance, trade playing host to the w hite faces that graze contentedly or among themselves, and then go back to their winter homes. to the shyer deer w ho take over these handsome dining But because the Indians failed to appreciate all he had rooms in early morning and at dusk, to add a last touch of done for them, the G reat Spirit became angered. He pun­ perfection. ished them with storms and cold and with earthquakes. The Everywhere on the mountain, Aspens bring an accent of high places were made low and the low places were made white trunk and trembling draperies. Deep in the forest, high and many were killed w hen rocks fell on them. scattered groups stand like fluttering, w hite-limbed ghosts, Still not appeased, their god cut off part of the moun­ but they surround the meadows with an air of festivity, tain to keep his people from crossing over to the south, a nd w hether in a mist-green of spring foliage, full-toned s um­ let water run through the terrible gap (Pa-oh-weep, canyon mer tints, or the rollicking gold of early autumn. Even bare of water), which we know as the Grand Canyon. If legends of leaves, their gray smoke, massed in hollows or on hill­ are still told among the Paiutes, now scattered on small sides, is exquisite. reservations, perhaps they blame their god for having finally This self-conscious tree seems always in a hurry to be taken the Kaibab from them, giving it to the w hite man for gone, quivering with excitement, as ephemeral as a butter­ his hunting ground. Ay. Perhaps conscious that its visit is limited and it comes In less than two hours you can rush through the w hole into the more confident forest to cover scars left by fi re, mountain on a fine paved road, and many do just that, the Aspen never settles down, and after a brief fifty years, missing the secretive world of the forest primeval with its vi elds the spot to pine, fir, or spruce, and y ou must look peace and tranquillity. Along little s ide roads, beyond sound of cars, the Kai­ hab opens its heart, unlocking chapels lit by the candelabra of pines. There is no experience quite like being alone in COLOR PHOTOGRAPHS the open glades of Ponderosa. D eep-piled rugs of needle The photographs o n the opposite page and the center panels were ncy to the feet taken by Josef Muench. T hey show views of the Kaibab Forest, north and cone, woven by the trees, lend a buoya of the Grand Canyon. T his vast wilderness invites the photographer and aromatic fragrance of air invites deep breaths a nd per­ and t he vacationer to explore its mystery during the spring, summer haps a sudden sprint to see if one can run. and autumn months.

PAG E EIGHTEEN • ARIZONA HIGHWAYS • JU NE 1954

elsewhere for the elfin spirit in green and white. In places varieties, have been mentioned, its sinks marveled at, and they achieve a more solid footing, taking over areas and the meadows touched upon, there is still much more to be growing into mature groves impressive in individual tree said of the great green world of the Kaibab. Anyone who and extent. Dark pigmenting on the trunks lends added knows the forest has his favorite haunts, deserving, he feels, character to the thickening boles and the reflected light, of special mention, yet far too many to dwell upon at length. singing among them, is distilled sunshine, filtered and puri­ Jolly Sink can hardly be ignored, where bawling cattle fied. gather around several small pools in a natural corral appro­ Along the swaying road that leads to Point Imperial priate for a movie set in some cattle-rustling tale of Zane and Cape Royal, within the park, they nestle in deep swales, Grey's. Even more to my liking is the smaller paradise called filling hollows with shimmering green. Around their glis­ Billy's Sink, entered through a limestone gateway and walled tening trunks, spring sends up a delicate covering of brack­ in by naked cliffs and slopes of Aspen. At the proper time en, knee deep and responsive to any capricious little breeze. there are flowers on the grass floor, pale-faced lupines and Aspens seem to consider, as well, that no meadow or giddy Indian paintbrush, but never any standing water. sink is properly decorated without at least a few of their Favorite with anyone who has made the seventeen­ number and take care to group trunks in artistic white lines mile pilgrimage from the main park road to Point Sublime, to offset the trim cones of conifers. Each "lake," if it holds is Kanabownits Canyon. All the magic of the forest is here; any drop of precious fluid, is named and put on the forest open stretches of musical pines; closed ranks of fir and map. Titles such as Lambs Lake, Crane Lake, Three spruce, and miles of Aspen, interspersed with clearings Lakes, and others, don't necessarily guarantee enough to shaped to the rolling ground and dedicated to deer. The road water a horse but can claim a unique setting, often with finally catches up with Kanabownits Creek, chortling softly old corral, drooping fences, and perhaps a tumbled-down to itself as it sparkles a little way above ground and then cabin to give it the romantic touch. At some, like historic happily loses itself in a meadow full of dandelion and Jacob Lake, the scent of the woods gathers in the clearing, columbine. heated to burning incense and lighted at deserted altars Another mile, up and out onto the very brink of the of another day. It is easy to believe that ghosts of Indian North Rim, breaks into vastly different terrain. The forest or early pioneer can be heard fluttering through the dark­ gives way to dense chaparral of scrub-oak and locust, and mantled trees that mass in the background. the Pinyan Pine takes over at the crest, towering over cliff When the gracious stands of trees, of many species and rose, sage and a ground covering of prickly pear and tiny hedgehog cactus. Here, the sun is blinding, hot, the desert OPPOSITE PAGE rock garden prickly but brilliant in flower, and the one hun­ The modern highway from Jacob Lake to the North Rim of Grand Canyon reveals sueeping vistas of beauty m the Kaibctb. Josef Muench shows in color photographs views along the highway from Jacob Lake to North Rim of Grand Canyon. A modern highway dred and fifty mile panorama-east, west, and south, truly cut through the Kaibab to bring the Canyon splendor to the traveler one of the sublime views on the continent-is one more on U .S. 89. The trip itself from Jacob Lake to the Canyon is one of facet of the amazing Kaibab. the most colorful in the state of Arizona. Another view of vast proportions opens at the end of a forest drive toward the east. Its destination, North Can­ amply for several small snug houses, attendant upon a near­ yon, is a study in tree conquest over even rugged, deep-cut by lookout tower. walls. When the visitor can tear his eyes from its velvet There are gratifyingly few people on the Kaibab. gorge, punctuated by rock outcroppings, a desert world Here and there are the summer quarters for fire guard or stretches to infinity. Thousands of feet below, House Rock other servants of the forest and park's needs, all official and Valley is an open expanse, cut by the slender, shadowy ser­ quite restrained. The little settlement at Jacob Lake, pentine of the Marble Gorge of the Colorado River. North where U.S. 89 makes a junction with the park approach Canyon, South Canyon, and lesser fingers from the Kaibab ro_ad, and then hurries off the mountain again, retires modest­ probe with diminishing strength its sun-swept surface, ly under the great Ponderosas and with Kaibab Lodge at and the tiny brown dots that seem to dance before the V.T. Park, offers the only tourist lodgings outside of the vision, are cattle or some of the two hundred head of buf­ park. The flood of summer visitors, bound for the North falo that graze on its grass. Still on beyond, the Echo Cliffs Rim, keep, foolishly, I think, to the main paved road, and stand in a jagged line and one hundred and fifty miles fall brings its influx of hunters. T he latter take over those from the lookout is the black hump of Navajo Mountain, far parts of the forest where game is most likely to be found, out on the skyline. Toward the north rises the escarpment many getting the fine Kaibab bucks, especially prized as of the Vermilion Cliffs and depending upon the clearness trophies, and some merely getting-lost. In that season, the of the day, you can see above them, one, two, or three, or mountain's only attraction to the tourist is the flamboyant even more, ascending steps of mighty plateaus, that are color of the Aspens, riotous enough along the safe paved crowned ultimately by the Pink Cliffs of Bryce Canyon. road. But spring and summer find the cool depths, the g lori­ From these almost too splendid exposes of naked ous spread of wild woodland quiet and going about its own rock and vulnerable earth, the shelter of the trees is welcome, nicely timed business. comforting, more to be lived with. There is security, if less It is still the forest primeval, a place to find one's self grand vistas, down lovely Castle Canyon, for example. The away from the distractions of modern life. Even the Paiute woods whisper companionably around you and pleasing is gone, and the only sounds are the w ind, the birds, the glimpses of stone battlements are framed in green along snap of a branch under the foot of some wild thing. Seasons the way, as the road picks its meandering and leisurely pass lightly over this ancient forest of the Kaibab, carved in course toward Big Springs. T here a charmingly homey sight Olympic grandeur from the g lowering desert, and smiled is enlivened by water pouring straight out of a hill wall and upon, surely, by the gods who planted it for anyone, w hether dropping, to make its way through a meadow and provide man or the four-footed creatures who revel in its solitude.

PAGE TWENTY- FOUR • A RI ZONA HIGHWAYS • J UNE 1954 Navajo family watches the life-giving water enter the ditch

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALLE N C. REED

"LAND! G ive us fertile watered land, and we'll take domain. For a century this land has been claimed by the the Indians, and divided them into tribes among which are among them in 1774, he praised their kindness and great care of our education and health. We will be self-support­ Mohave and Chemehuevi Tribes which are of the Yuman the stockraising farming Mohaves and the Chemehuevis, a physical superiority, then went on to their companion ing!" Language Family. Piute offshoot. tribe, the Yumas, who beat out his brains with war clubs. The Southwest Indians Tribes have been saying that Before history was recorded in the southwestern United Not much has been written about these Colorado River This d iscouraged outside meddling with affairs of the C olo­ to a paternal government for many decades without any States a horde of aggressive dark-skinned people occupied Tribes perhaps because they have no colorful dances, and rado River Indian T ribes. apparent result. But Congress and the Office of Indian wild country on both sides of a sullen turbulent stream their arts and crafts leave much to be desired. Their tribal In 18 54 fifty Mohaves attacked 1500 U . S. Cavalry Affairs have been on the alert for suitable land for destitute winding its way over deserts and through canyons from tlY~ ceremonies repel rather than attract white visitors. Number­ soldiers as they were passing through that country en route tribes. Land which could b e irrigated and placed at the dis­ Rocky Mountains to the sea. The people were Yuman ing less than 1 ,ooo now, their tribe was one time the largest to Fort Yuma. The soldiers fought a running battle close posal of Indian colonists was found in 19 39 w hen the Colo­ Indians and the r iver the untamed Colorado. Hoover Dam, and most warlike branch of the Yuman Family. The Spanish pressed by the Mohaves armed with war clubs and battle­ rado River Tribes, located along the Colorado in southwest­ Parker D am and H eadgate have tamed the river into a con­ invaders in 1540 gave them a wide berth having heard of axes. They like to fight hand to h and combat where they can ern Arizona, asked to have help in utilizing their huge trolled power, and centuries and white men have subdued their ferocious tendencies, but when Father Garces stopped use their muscles and clubs. Ten years later the Mohaves

PAGE T vVE NTY-S I X ARIZONA HIGHWAYS JUN E 1954 completely destroyed a wagon train of Texas pioneers en route to the west coast. Seventy men, women and children were killed and the horses and stock added to Mohave herds. There was no formal treaty between the United States and the Colorado River Tribes but in 1863 there was a meeting in council and the Mohaves and Chemehuevis agreed to break their weapons and stop fighting among themselves and to cease their killing and robbing of w hite people. Colonel Charles D. Poston, Superintendent of Arizona Territory Indian Affairs, reported the meeting to the Indian Commissioner in Washington, and I copied the flowery hand­ written words a few days ago. The yellowed foolscap paper was brittle with age and handling, but quite legible: "September 30, 1864. "-6-Prolonged investigation of conditions among these (Colorado Tribes) Indians show that a reservation for them is mandatory. It should be large enough to support 10,000." A later report was more specific: "A reservation should be selected for these Indians on the banks of the Colorado River, and the government should be asked to open an irrigation canal on the land to aid them in becoming industrious and self-supporting Indians." He suggested that the cost of settling rn,ooo of them on this reservation and H eadgate R ock Dam near Parl-? er serves the Indian fa rmers. getting the land irrigated would cost $50,000 in gold or twice that amount in currency. In that same y ear Colonel Poston represented Arizona T~rritory as a d elegate, and his efforts to push through the Colorado River Reservation fill many yellowed pages of Congressional Records. To him shot1ld ·g·o the credit for ha vi no- the reservation established. that the rest of the land be sold to white settlers, under the b "f h Law called On March 2, 1 867 Congress let loose of $50,00 0, or t e Reclamation Act of course. The Reclamation expense of collecting and locating Indians of the C~lorado for quarter section farm plots. The Office of Indian Affairs River in Arizona on a reservation set aside for them, mclud­ side-stepped this grab, and ten years later another law ing expense of a canal." The Act setting up the reservation was passed saying ten-acre plots were to be allotted to the was a classic example of ambiguity, and after almost a cen­ Indians, and this was done. More and more inadequate tury has come back to haunt current lawmaker~. "All t~at laws were passed and the Mohaves and Chemehuevis just part of the public domain in the Territory of Arizona lymg sort of existed on wood they could cut and sell, raising some west of a direct line from Half-Way Bend to Corner Rock cattle and horses and consuming government rations when on the Colorado River, containing about 7 5,ooo acres of they could get them. Perhaps rn,ooo acres of land had land, shall be set apart for an Indian Reservation for the been cleared and watered during all that time and some of Indians of said River and its tributaries." it had reverted to mesquite a nd cactus. Dry, dusty desert waste is leveled, ditched and im proved to becom e fertile farm lands. The tributaries of the Colorado are far flung and their The reservation has always been entirely too large for waters flow o n the lands of Hopi, Apache, Navajo, Zuni, the Mohaves and Chemehuevis to utilize, and w hen the War Walapai, Havasupai, Piute, Pima a nd Papago. Relocation Authority needed a place w here 18,000 J ap­ Off and on feeble efforts were made to put portions of anese-Americans could live and be self-supporting, it entered the big reservation into shape for farming, but little was into an agreement with the Indian S ervice to use a portion really accomplished. There was entirely too much land for of that land. In exchange for the use of the land it was the Mo haves and Chemehuevis occupy ing it, and in r 874 to be cleared, levelled, irrigated and cultivated and left in an effort was made to have them share it with the trouble­ good condition for the Indians when the Japanese people subjugated and improved area back to the Indian S ervice, reported to the Secretary of the Interior: "Within the 4 28 some Walapais from the South Rim of the Grand Canyon. moved away. the Colorado River T ribes began to use their heads. Even square miles comprising this reservation are something like The United States Army moved seven or eight hundred Accustomed to wresting an existence from any sort before Colonel Poston and the government had set the one hundred thousand acres of rich river bottom soil all of Walapais down there by force, and it was a bad move. of soil, the Japanese farmers were delighted with w hat they land aside for their reservation, they kne,v it w as their ow n which may be irrigated from t he waters of the Colorado Thousands of dollars were spent for food and supplies try­ could grow there in that fertile Arizona land. They cleared personal property. H adn't their chief god, Mat-o-lia, when River. T his comprises the largest and probably the best ing to colonize these homesick, ailing troublemakers. A few 3200 acres of land, irrigated 2 500 acres of it by extending he w as scattering l ndian tribes over the Southwest, told the tract of land within what is known as the Colorado River of them made an effort to establish themselves. They cut canals and laterals and making drainage ditches to prevent Mohaves and their kindred to stay right there and make Basin. T here is no question but what its development would wild hay and sold it to army camps and with the money they the rising of alkali. that river bottom their everlas'ting home? T hey accepted decidedly influence the Jives of these Indians. There are no bought cattle for stockraising. Apparently interest. waned T heir school building was of adobe and met all require­ that land as soon as it was created and they t ook the gift lands within the reservation which should be eliminated or in the project and within three years the Walapa1s were ments for modern lighting, heating and sanitation. Their for keeps. The Mohaves have little religious superstition, restored to public domain. But there is a large tract of back among their Peacock Mountams where today they are medical center was close to th e barracks and amply but they believe that souls of their cremated dead travel on potential agricultural land that these Indians never can use. livino- comfortably on their cattle sales and farm products. equipped. Stock pens, slaughter house and refrigeration smoke to their eternal heaven in the W hite Mountains, and T here will never be enough of them to use i t. vVith the The Colorado River Reservation slipped the mind of plant were excellent, and they even improved the appear­ that Mas-zam-ho, son of Mat-o-lia, rules there where food is coming of irrigation to the land s ome plan must be devised Congress until in 1904 somebody reminded it that rich ance of their barrack village by planting trees along the always cooking and there are no more hardships. Believing for its use. There seems to be no justifiable reason for the farm land was there and it could be taken away from the streets and covering the buildings with fast growing vines. this, thev w ere determined to hold on to the land, and at Indians to attempt to retain all of this land. It seems a Indians by law. A la:w. was passed allotti?g a plot. of ~ve The Mohave Indians liked to scoff at the Japanese indus­ the sam~ time get revenue from it. Indian officials w ere in justifiable proposition to consider the sale of this land. It is acres to each Indian hvmg on the reservat1011, and directmg try, but w hen the War Relocation Authority returned the full accord with that ambition. In 1939 their superintendent (Please turn to page t/Jirty-four)

PAGE TWENTY-EIGHT • ARIZONA HIGHWAYS • JUNE 1 954

Old Army barracks became homes, barns and stores. Improved roadways, bridges, concrete irrigation ditches and buildings like new modern store (inset) were constructed.

LAND OF BEGINNING AGAIN ... Continued from page twenty-nine possible that it can be sold for a sum that would completely recommendation of their advisors and attorneys that the I. That I may have a period of two years tram the date of living on the high mountainous plateau and rocky mesas pay for the cost of constructing irrigation works for all the colonization pact came into being. Minutes w:re kep_t at all approval of this application in which to establish a permanent land needed to be retained by the Indians." these official meetings and are open for mspect10n to of Northern Arizona. Their need, at that time, was deemed home, and satisfy myself of my ability to make a living from more pressing than that of other Arizona tribes. That was when the Mohaves first began to get jittery authorized and interested parties. such land. Within that period of time it is understood that: Parched and worn as are the Hopi grazing lands, and about the land. They did not want it sold to white settlers The Colorado River Tribes proposed to set aside 75,000 a. I may at any time after the end of the first year apply for and the money for it kept in the hands of the Indian Bureau acres of the reservation, which incidentally, if the law mak­ admission to membership in the Colorado River Tribes, with incredibly small planting fields and gardens, the Peaceful to spend as it saw fit. They began to wonder how they had ing it should be interpreted literally does not belong solely all the privileges attached thereto as set forth in the draft Ones have managed to exist and survive on their three managed to hold on to 100,000 acres of virgin soil which to the Mohaves and Chemehuevis, to be offered to other resolution which I have read, at which time I will waive any mesas for many centuries. They were there in 1540 when further property rights on the ---- reservation, or in the land hungry whites would move heaven and earth to obtain. tribes in need of farming and grazing land. Included in this the first Spaniards came to this country, and tree ring read­ ---- tribe. ings show that timbers in their sacred kivas were cut in the They held private meetings and talked about the land and tract was the portion already cleared and conditioned by b. Instead of making this application, I may at the end of two how they could get money out of it without selling it; they the Japanese. In return for relinquishing this land to their early 13oo's. The Hopis are the only Pueblo lndi~ns in years relinquish my colonization permit, and return to the Arizona and they live under the benevolent protection of held public conferences with officials from the Office of less fortunate blood brothers, 15 ,ooo acres of wild land ---- reservation. In this case a land board to be estab­ Indian Affairs and other branches of the government. They retained by the Colorado Tribes was to be put in shape for lished under regulations by the Secretary of the Interior will their Kachina gods residing in the snow-topped San Fran­ rnade a statement which was widely quoted and printed: extensive farming for the Mohaves. In addition to clearing fix a fair value for any permanent improvements which I may cisco Peaks sixty miles westward. Time and tradition bind them to their homeland. Their sacred shrines are part of "The Colorado River Indian Tribes as a community of citi­ it and putting in irrigation and drainage facilities, the gov­ have made on my farm and homesite, which amount will be paid to me by any successor who takes over my permit, or by their daily lives; their remembered dead lie in rocky crypts zens of the United States desire to make full use of the land ernment was to furnish necessary water at a stated rate" the Hopi colonization group on behalf of a future colonist." all around the villages; tame eagles are chained to the roof­ which is being reclaimed for them by the government. The Application For Colonization Land Permit was quite a Each colonist was permitted to borrow $3,000 from tops and their presence insures plenty of breast plumes for Every individual member of the tribes is interested in every comprehensive document with its legal terms and phrases" the government with which to build a house, buy seed and the macabre Snake Dance, North America's best known unused acre of land belonging to the tribes, and wants such "WHEREAS, the Act of Congress approved March 3, 1865, set small tools not available by rental, and out of the $3,000 unused acres put to use for the common benefit of all." aside the land now known as the Colorado River Indian Reservation, ceremony of thanksgiving and prayer for rain. food could be bought for his family until crops were harvest­ The Hopis have fought off attacks by Utes, Apaches, That statement appeared in their approved Land Code 'for the Indians of said river and its tributaries,' and ed. The frugal Hopis used little of the loan for food, having Navajos and even white men in defense of their right to adopted May 28, 1940. Meetings had begun in 1939 regard­ WHEREAS, the Tribal Council of the Colorado River Indian Reservation has by ordinance reserved for the use of the Indians of brought their dried corn, peaches, beans and squash down live according to their beliefs, and while epidemics and ing disposition of the land. Congressman Murdock of Ari­ the Colorado River tributaries (Hualapai, Hopi, Navajo, Apache, from the mesa with them for just such an emergency. Large starvation have kept their numbers around 3,000 they have zona, an intelligent and indefatigable student of Indian Zuni, Papago and Supai) that portion of the present Colorado River farm equipment could be rented from the Indian Service, refused to move to another location. The women are gifted needs, engineered and attended many such meetings. Dis­ Indian Reservation referred to as the Southern Reserve, under regula­ and while homes were being built the colonists lived in potters and basketmakers, and the men weave colorful tions to be promulgated by the Secretary of the Interior, cussions continued over a period of years, and the wisdom the vacated Japanese barracks. Loans to a colonist were to blankets and work with silver and turquoise for income. of opening portions of their reservation for colonization by NOW, THEREFORE, I ---- of the ---- tribe of Indians of Arizona, hereby make application to the Secretary of the be completely cleared up with interest inside of three years. Schooled Hopis and returned war veterans know that needy tribes was given favorable thought. Mr. Murdock and There were other conditions and agreements entered there can be no future for their young families if they other leaders attending these councils say that pressure was Interior for a colonization permit of approximately forty (40) acres of subjugated irrigated land, and of a homesite in a village to be into which gave mutual benefit to both the colonists and remain on the barren mesas. Unless they moved away from never put on the Mohaves to accept the plan. It was at the established in the Southern Reserve, of a plot approximately 50 x mo, the Colorado River Tribes. The invitation to colonize the exhausted and waterless land the Hopi Tribe was insistence and desire of the Colorado River Tribes, and the under the following terms and conditions: seemed directed largely toward the Hopi and Navajo Indians doomed. Bitter family quarrels arose, however, when more

PAGE THIRTY-FOUR • ARIZONA HIGHWAYS • JUNE 1954 Modern mechanized fa rming equipment is used in yield of crops.

trouble of killing, skinning and tanning wild animal pelts. stolen horses, ranged and raided far and wide. They would Mutton tasted better than deer or wild turkey, and the strike the villages of Mexican or Indian people along the sheepskins made soft warm sleeping mats. With stolen Rio Grande and drive livestock and captives back to the sheep in their possession the Navajo Indians changed their mountains. Treaties were worthless, and even after the way of life. They built mud and stone hogans to live in United States became legal owner of Arizona and New where there was feed and water for the flocks. And while Mexico, the raids and murders continued. the women guarded the new treasure the men, mounted on Under stern orders from General James Carleton,

A Navajo family , by old and 11er..v methods, prepares the soil.

Hopi fa1nily specializes in cattle on their new acreage.

progressive members of the tribe spoke hopefully of the ing bison and deer, they wandered over a land bridge where Colorado River Re-settlement Plan. There were heartaches the Bering Strait now is and found themselves in the frozen and misgivings and even tribal curses from the priests when north of the Western Continent. Centuries passed while the first contingent of colonists gathered their flocks of they drifted southward, living on seeds and roots and game, sheep and cattle, and with their household belongings began and stopping for perhaps a generation while they planted the trek to the lower Colorado River country. That was in maize and beans. They finally reached the Southwest where 1945. By 1948 there were 20 Hopi families and six Navajo the Apaches formed their own tribe, and the Navajos con­ families living there and building their homes. Now, in tinued to live by hunting and by raiding and robbing other 1952, there are IOI Navajo families and 25 Hopi families Indians of that age. The Navajos called themselves "Dinne," on the Southern Reserve, and 150 more families, mostly The People, and were the scourge of the region when the Navajo, whose applications have been approved, waiting Spaniards came in the 1540s. for available land. There was little intercourse between The Dinne and The project is top-heavy with Navajos. That is what the Conquistadors; all the Indians wanted from the new­ the Mohaves are saying, and some bitterness has developed comers was to be ignored and given a chance to steal the between the Colorado River Tribes and their invited guests. fascinating horses brought from Spain, and the foolish gen­ History of the Navajo Tribe is a stormy one. They belong tle sheep more docile tribes had accepted from the priests. to the Athapascan Family, they and the Apaches, and are a Pueblo slaves captured by the Navajos had carried the art strange haughty race. We are told that they were great of weaving into hogans and with fleece pulled from the hunters in their ancient Old World habitat, and that follow- sheeps' backs warm covering could be made without the

PAGE THIRTY-SIX • ARIZ ON A HIGHWAYS • JUNE 1954 Industrious Indian immigrants build modern home from scrap lumber. Indian children excel in school activities and mix well with playmates.

Colonel Kit Carson with his regiment of New Mexico Vol­ But too many sharp sheep hooves, too much wind and ton on 460 acres of land and sold their crop for $82,800; they voted overwhelmingly to "repeal" their entire agree­ unteers entered the Navajo country in 1863 and devastated too little rain ruined the grazing, and their flocks were they grossed $363,000 in 14,000 tons of alfalfa growing on ment. They ask that all colonists be removed from the land it. When he completed his tour of duty by marching troops doomed. Stock reduction was necessary in order to rebuild 4,500 acres; their 2 50 head of cattle had a value of $63,000 and that it be returned to them for their disposal. They through the sacred Canyon de Chelly, the Navajos were the range, but it worked untold hardshtps on the Navajos. and 140 head of sheep were worth $3,600. In addition to propose to repay the government the $15,000,000 spent by convinced they were licked for the time being. Carson was Their men went anywhere work could be had. They are these money crops they raised small grains, vegetables and it in carrying out the agreement. Perhaps their attorneys authorized to offer them refuge in a good farming country natural mechanics, and they worked on railroads and high­ fruits for their own use. Co-operative groups bought heavy know how the Colorado River Tribes can offhand obtain where they could take what sheep he had left them, if they way construction, and hundreds of them were and are in the farming equipment and trucks for marketing their crops. this amount of money. would voluntarily come in with their families and stock for armed forces. Returning veterans faced a dreary future until They exchanged labor on their farms and house building, Records kept over a period of ten years of discussion transportation. It was a fanciful resettlement plan with they received the Mohave invitation to move to the lower and were always eager to listen and watch when the demon­ of the re-settlement project show that every aspect of the nothing to back it. Eight thousand Navajos were marched, Colorado Reservation and make new homes for themselves stration agent came to instruct them. scheme was fully and openly talked over by all parties con­ driven and dragged to a desolate desert at Fort Sumner, and their families. Once there all their skill and acquired For the first time in their lives the Hopi and Navajo cerned. The agreement was entered into in good faith and New Mexico and herded there in confinement along with knowledge was put to work making their forty acres pay. children can be sure of schooling. They are well dressed, the government and the invited colonists have fulfilled their their most bitter Indian enemies. Their treatment there by They owed a debt of $3,000 to the government, and a debt well fed and learning to enter the white man's world. contract in detail. The Mohaves have been inclined to scoff both the army and Indian Service is something one would of gratitude to the Colorado River Tribes, and Navajos are Arizona is proud of this re-settlement project, and at the scientific farming methods of their colonists, and some like to forget. They were starved and frozen and robbed, proud-they don't like to be beholden! They worked hard point to it when other states search for a means of security tribal bitterness has arisen between them and the Navajos. and given no shelter from the elements. Hundreds died of to clear the books. And while they worked they shared for their Indian population. And Congress, usually indiffer­ The Colorado River Tribes have never been so prosperous eating spoiled food issued to them. If any tried to escape their good fortune with hungry kinfolk back on the Navajo ent and lethargic where the problems of Indians are con­ as they are now, and doubtless outside influence has been at back to their mountains, hostile Indians were sent out to Reservation. With money in their pockets and truckloads cerned, approved this constructive operation, and under work. capture or kill them. Their stock was driven off by marauding of grain and vegetables they visited up there, creating a the urgent nudging of Arizona congressmen has voted . The Secretary of the Interior, sworn to protect the tribes, and the Navajos had no weapons for defense. Kit desire in other families to join the re-settlement colony on $14,637,606 to be spent there. About $5,000,000 of that nghts of all Indian Tribes under his jurisdiction, vetoed the Carson, heartsick over his unwitting part in their betrayal, the Southern Reserve. amount went into construction of Headgate Dam and its Mohave appeal to void their contract. But uncertainty and worked unceasingly for their release. He couldn't write . During the first year of Hopi re-settlement I visited irrigation system. Perhaps construction of that dam was fear clouds the prosperous valley settlement in the Southern more than his own name, but he had junior officers in his with them. Many "."ere old friends of _mine and their destiny what the Colorado River Tribes had in mind when they Reserve. Until Congress has a clear definition of what was command that took down his bitter burning reproaches was of personal importance. Supermtendent Gensler, in broached the re-settlement subject. It is built now, and their intended in the original reservation setup back in 1865, it is and his pleas to General Carleton and General Wm. T. charge of the Parker Agency had grown old in the Indian invited colonists are prospering with use of its impounded possible that no more money will be spent to reclaim Sherman, and those original letters in the United States Service, and lost much of his optimism along the way. "I'll waters. The average income of the 126 colonist families land for either the settlers or the Colorado River Tribes. Archives portray the fiery little Carson as having little regard tell you better how this is going to turn out five years from there in 1951 was just over $4,000, and with that concrete And while ownership of the land is being established, there for army red tape! now. You have three unrelated family groups here, Yuman, incentive 200 additional Navajo families placed permit ap­ are some salient points Commissioner Dillon Myer would At the end of four years, what remained of the Navajo Uto-aztecan and Athapascan. They have been hereditary plications. like to see established. In an interview he told me h0e would Nation was escorted back to Northern Arizona, given some enemies in the past; their religions, customs, speech and way Perhaps it was a mistake in the beginning not to like to have the clause making membership in the Colo­ sheep, seeds for planting, a lot of worthless promises, and of life are radically different. We must all work and hope allocate the permits and keep a certain quota of colonists rado River Tribes of the colonists compulsory eliminated. told to get lost. for the best!" from the many tribes named in the resolution. Up to now, He also feels that forty acres of farming land are not They melted away into the shadowy mountains, nursed Two years later Mr. Gensler was dead, but in answer all the colonists are Hopi and Navajo with the exception . enough to insure financial security for a family. He suggests themselves and their sheep back into the limelight. Now to my inquiries the Extension Agent gave heart warming of two Havasupai families. The Mohaves see that before that the farming area should be increased. there are 65,000 Navajos on their 25,000 acre reservation, reports: "Indian interest in colonization continues to be long the Colorado River Tribes, under their compulsory One of the Commissioner's desires is to see a law and goodness knows how many million sheep would be fa_vorable ~nd applications _from both Hopi and Navajo edict of colonists renouncing their own tribe to join that of passed "".'hich will permit ~hese colonist Indians to eventually there if a compulsory stock reduction program hadn't tnbes are 111 excess of available land on which to place the Colorado tribes, will have more Navajos than Mohaves ?wn their purchased land m fee, and be allowed to dispose of cleared the pastures. Sheep meant security to the tribe. They them. Their orerations so far ~ave been a success, and they or Chemehuevis! it by lease or sal~ as would any other ~merican citizen. Only sold wool at shearing time, and the lamb crop in the spring are accepted 111 the commumty not only by the Indian Whether they, by personal observation and deduction, by such responsible ownership and nght of sale can Indian to the trading posts for essential food and clothing; they p~ople, but_ by the town and community of Parker. They are see that their invited settlers have made a paying proposition citizens take their place in economic community life. wove wool into rugs which brightened floors and rustic raismg gram, cotton, truck crops and cattle in addition to of the land, or whether outsiders for ulterior reasons fostered Until the Secretary of the Interior and congress decide bunks from one side of the nation to the other; they beat their principal crop of alfalfa. The indebtedness for homes dissatisfaction, the Mohaves are attempting to be Indian ownership of the disputed land, and the right or wrong of silver into costume jewelry and studded it with native tur­ and supplies is being paid off often before due." Givers. They claim that they were rushed into the project the Mohave desire to repudiate their tribal approved agree­ quoise and kept themselves from starvation. In the year 1951 the colonists raised 500 bales of cot- by government officials and following their attorneys' advice ment, the Land of Beginning Again has a dark cloud over it.

PAGE THIRTY-EIGHT • ARIZONA HIGHWAYS • JUNE 1954 TO LIVE BY When covered-wagon caravans Creaked westward, and the day Seemed too long beneath copper skies, How often did my lady (with eyes Ever eager to sight an oasis GRAND CANYON ISSUE: By the way) descend to the ground BACK COVER . . . My congratulations on your masterpiece And pick a flower she found "CORON ADO TRAIL" BY WAYNE DAV IS .. ARIZONA HIGHWAYS, March edition, describing Growing wild. Realizing God is The Coronado Trail is that. enchanted stretch the awe inspiring beauty of the Grand Canyon Everywhere men may tread, of highway (U.S. 666) which joins Springerville in Arizona. The millions that have had the The little flower became a symbol and Clifton, two towns some I 20 miles apart. pleasure of seeing the world's greatest formation Of His goodness, something· for her The Trail, a graded road, clings to some of the of beauty and grandeur have seen the Hand To live by, besides bread. highest ridges of the Whites and Blues before of God in the Creation of rhe World. CARRIE MARECY BORING dropping into the canyon where Clifton is I wish it were so that every school and located. Because of the heavy snows in winter, library in the United Stares could have several the Trail is closed but opens for business about copies each of the March issue of your maga­ A NAVAJO ABROAD* THINKS OF HOME May 15, weather conditions permitting. This zme. view was taken from Blue Lookout, about half­ These distant places hold no lure for me. I am buying several extra copies at the news­ way between Clifton and Springerville. Brand This sky is alien; not the sky I knew. stands to send some friends that I know will 17 Camera, 6½" Hex lens, 1/ 5th second at F.22, The stars that float above are dim and few never have the opportunity to visit the greatest Ektachrome. And even the vagrant winds are not so free. of all Creations. Could I but find one twisted cedar tree- Roy Ramey A single yucca cup, frost-lipped with dew, El Cerrito, California . .. As one who grew* up in the shadow of San If in my searching nostrils one wind blew Xavier de) Bae; who learned from -it the mean­ • Thanks to Reader Ramey for bis gracious A breath of sage-my loneliness would flee. comments and to the many others who have ing of beauty, of art, and oti a good part of expressed appreciation for our Grand Canyon Long I have been away and still I dream life; and who carried the image of the vVhite issue. Of green corn growing tall beside red rocks Dove through tens of ttousands of miles of And melons ripening on a slender vine. travel over three continents during World vVar IN A CLASSROOM: In vain I listen for the eagle's scream II until it came gently to rest here in the North ... I just want to let you know how very And the bleating of my mother's grazing flocks, Country-may I express my deepest gratitude much my class and I enjoy your magazine. It And I long for far-off pleasures that were mine. for the noble essay on the mission which Nancy­ is especially attractive to children because of FERN TAPSCOTT BELL Newhall and Ansel Adams prepared for your the beautiful color of your pictures. Right April issue. And for Miss Newhall's historic now we are studying the mountain states and sense, her knowledge of Christian symbolism, there is a wealth of material in the magazine THE STORM PASSES and her at-homeness in the world of art one can which I use with the class. * only have astonished admiration, as one must In one end of my classroom I have a cabinet The night hung clear, for the luminous photography of Mr. Adams. with 30 panes of glass exactly the size of your But the leaves were heavy Betty Bandel full page pictures. I have three complete sets And glistened yet Asst. Professor, English of pictures from ARIZONA HIGHWAYS to fit With tears of the storm just through. University of Vermont these glass doors: one set of fall pictures, one The earthy odor of sated dust Burlington, Vermont set of winter pictures, and one set of spring Rose around us like the clinging past ••. Sincerest congratulations on "Mission San pictures. I change the sets with the seasons And permeated our clothes. Xavier del Bae." and the pictures are the "high-light spot" of We stood firm Nancy Newhall deserves the highest praise. my classroom. In hushed awe at the changed world. I have never read anything quite so beautif.ul . Minni Dysterheft Raising our eyes to the same high stars; and charming. It is to be hoped that you can Minneapolis, Minnesota We saw them as clear promises. prevail upon her to use her extraordinary tal­ • Greetings to Miss Dysterbeft and ber pupils. All storms pass. ents to write more articles for your very un­ May our publication long continue to bring IsABELLE Cox usual magazine. spots of color to a Minnesota classroom! -Edward J. Soehnel Riali:o, California COLOR CLASSICS: SAN XAVIER: * • We are roud of the reception of our San . . . I was very pleased to see your announce­ ... The other Franciscan friars of Bae join me Xavier article in April issue. When a publica­ ment of Color Classics in May issue of Am­ in expressing hearty congratulations and un­ tion has tin opportunity to use sucb fine talents ZONA HIGHWAYS. As a slide collector I readily stinted praise for your inspired and inspiring as tbose of Nancy Newball and Ansel Adams, testify that yours will be one of the most popu­ portrayal of Mission San Xavier! To employ tbat publication is fortunate, indeed, because lar slide offerings made in America. I hope to your own words with a few necessary changes, their work always has cbarm and distinction. eventually have every slide you produce. your humble publication ( which, to my knowl­ Alfred M. Cano! edge, has no serious rival in the other 47 states) Milwaukee, Wis. has never told the story of San Xavier so well OPPOSITE PAGE ... Congratulations on your Color Classics. My before-neither has any other publication. "RED CLIFFS ALONG THE VERDE," BY first order has just arrived and I must say your The sympathetic, vivid descriptions together ALLEN C. REED. This .. is the Verde River slides are truly Classics, some of the best I have with the outstanding photography conspired in approximately two miles upstream from Clark­ seen. The fact that slides can be bought from conveying the same overwhelming and complex dale as seen from the general area of the Syca­ pictures appearing in ARIZONA HIGHWAYS makes impression and emotions with which San Xavier more Canyon road in late September. On the Color Classics doubly interesting. itself smites every thoughtful and appreciative far side of the river the railroad tracks of the Mrs. T. T. Stevenson visitor. "Verde Mix" wind their way from Clarkdale Knoxville, Tenn. Accept my sincere gratitude for your copies to Drake. The Verde is one of Arizon8's main • We are gratified with tbe response to our of the ARIZONA HIGHWAYS as well as for the rare rivers and is popular not only for its scenic initial announcement of Color Classics from pleasure of meeting two perfectly delightful beauty and its well known bass and cat fishif1g ARIZONA HIGHWAYS. Selected Classics from back people which your assignment afforded! waters but is a most valuable asset to the irriga­ issues will be announced eacb month, as well as Fr. Celestine Chinn, 0. F. M. tion farmers of the Phoenix area. Camera Data: slide duplicates from all current issues beginning Mission San Xavier Del Bae 4 x 5, Crown Graphic on tripod, F.16 at 1/ Ioth witb April issue of tbis year. Tucson, Arizona second, Ektachrome.

PAGE FORTY • ARIZO N A HIGHWAYS • JUNE 1954