Welcome to of the eisteddfod in North Wales. Its long Caerwys musical tradition is maintained today through its Male Voice Choir and Christmas aerwys, the smallest town in Britain with a Royal Charter, has carols on the Square. Ca long and fascinating history. The numerous Bronze Age burial mounds, other Bronze Age finds such as the gold torc, and the Iron Age By the 19th century the regional importance hillfort on nearby Penycloddiau indicate that the area was well-used by of Caerwys was declining, despite the opening of Prehistoric tribes. Romans probably traded locally and, by 1086, Caerwys the Mold to Denbigh railway line. New main roads had bypassed the was of sufficient importance to merit a mention in the Domesday Book. town and the nearby towns of Flint and Holywell prospered as industry developed. Caerwys remained predominantly rural. Eight mills ground The town is proud of its royal connections. In the 11th and 12th corn on the Afon Wheeler and the regular livestock markets continued to centuries it had strong links with the Princes of Gwynedd who had a flourish into the 20th century. Farming remains important today, with palace at Maesmynan. In 1290, Edward I granted the town its Royal the annual Agricultural Show drawing crowds from miles around. Charter, making it a free borough. It was one of 10 towns in North Wales that were The trains brought day trippers and holidaymakers to the area, attracted granted charters, but the others were all by the historic town and the picturesque countryside. Many camped Norman fortified towns, such as Rhuddlan, on farms or rented rooms from local people and gradually permanent Flint and Conwy, where the local Welsh had caravan parks and holiday accommodation developed. limited rights. Caerwys was unique as it was the only truly Welsh settlement granted this Local residents and visitors alike continue to enjoy Caerwys, with its privilege. thriving and vibrant community. The town continued to flourish and enjoy This booklet has been produced by the local community to royal patronage throughout the Medieval and celebrate the rich cultural and natural heritage of the area. Many Tudor periods. Not only was it a commercial thanks to all who have provided photographs or shared their centre, but it also had strong Welsh cultural memories and knowledge. traditions, and is known as the birthplace The booklet can also be downloaded from www.cadwynclwyd. Research: Lorna Jenner, Berwyn Roberts, John Rees, co.uk or www.flintshire.gov.uk/tourism the late Tom Lloyd-Roberts, the authors of the Caerwys Guide, 1979, Caerwys Historical Society Scripting: Lorna Jenner Design: William Smuts Printing: Design and Print 01352 704000 Wildlife photography: Steve Young, Simon Booth Photographs: Christine Griffiths, Lorna Jenner, Dilys Jones, Vicky Jones, Annette Jones, Estelle Parry, Phillip Parry, Elvet Pierce, Neville Pierce-Jenkins, John Rees, Berwyn Roberts, Alan and Julie Thomas, Tom Wood 1990 700 year anniversary celebrations Through the ages of the 1st Royal Charter. 1975 Service held to dedicate the newly 1923 designed Mayor’s Memorial Institute opened. badge and chain. 1810 Bethel Chapel opened, the first of five Non-conformist chapels in Caerwys. 2000BC Bronze Age tribes farmed locally 1290 and built numerous burial mounds. Edward I granted the first Royal Charter 1568 to Caerwys. The great Eisteddfod held in Caerwys, 1985 1081-1272 commissioned by Clwydian Range Welsh Princes had a Elizabeth I. designated an AONB. palace at Maesmynan and probably held their court locally. 1356 Grant given to hold a weekly market and two annual fairs. 1968 Caerwys 400th Anniversary Eisteddfod held. 1869 750BC-47AD Mold – Denbigh Railway opened, Iron Age people built 1244 1771 with a station at Caerwys. Penycloddiau hillfort The Pope arranged a on the nearby Clwydian First paper mill meeting in Caerwys church erected at Afonwen. Range. to decide the validity of a treaty between Prince Dafydd and Circa 1400 -1409 Henry III. Troops sent from Rhuddlan to ambush Owain Glyndwr’sˆ supporters at Caerwys during his rebellion. A centre for trade from the other North Wales charter towns, which were newly-built fortified towns where trading rights were only granted to English immigrants. The and commerce local Welsh were forbidden to trade and discouraged from living within the English towns. In Caerwys, some of the Welsh were free burgesses with a merchant guild and equal trading rights to their English overlords. or centuries Caerwys was an important administrative and Fcommercial centre in the region. It first gained importance in the 11th century due to its association with the Princes of Gwynedd. Prince Gruffyd ap Cynan married a local lady and had a palace at Maesmynan. His successors, Llywelyn ap Grufydd (Llywelyn the last), and his brother, Prince Dafydd, continued to use Maesmynan until their defeat by Edward I. In 1244, the Pope chose Caerwys church as the meeting place for two abbots to decide a dispute between Prince Dafydd and King Henry III, which reflects its importance at that time. A stone effigy, claimed to be of Dafydd’s wife, Elizabeth Ferrers, still lies in Caerwys church. The town’s importance as a trading centre grew as the nearby Norman settlements of Flint and Rhuddlan developed and Basingwerk Abbey became increasingly influential. It was also well placed for cross border trading with Chester. Caerwys was already an established Welsh settlement when Edward I Artists impression of the market hall granted it a Royal Charter in 1290. This meant it was very different By 1292, 39 of the 42 taxpayers had Welsh names, whereas Flint only had five and Rhuddlan one! It was during this period that Caerwys Maesmynan Hall, near the site of the Medieval palace was laid out in the grid pattern that remains to this day. In 1351 it was granted a second charter, making it a Municipal Borough, and, in 1356 granted permission to hold a weekly market and two annual fairs. Until the late 17th century Caerwys was one of the main towns in Flintshire, where the Assize Courts and markets were held. The town of Caerwys s industry developed elsewhere, Caerwys lost its On 7th Dec, 1975, a special Civic Service was held in the church, to Aimportance and gradually became the peaceful place dedicate the badge and chain. The oldest residents in the town presented it is today. However, local people remain proud of its the sitting mayor, Councillor Berwyn Roberts, and his wife with their illustrious history. In 1968 Caerwys was granted its chains. Civic Sunday, as it is known, has become an annual event. Coat of Arms, the town crest, by the Lord Lieutenant of Flintshire. The Mayor’s chain includes eight symbols: the tree on the cross; the Prince of Wales’ feathers to represent the association with the Welsh The motto TANNAU ARIAN – GEIRIAU ARIAN Princes; the church tower; a plough representing the agricultural links; relates to the eisteddfodau, meaning, ‘silver strings a mill wheel representing Afonwen (inspire) silver words’. mills; a pinfold for stray animals, "At the service, I commented that representing the famous fairs; the chain itself should be the ninth In 1974, the Local Government Act of 1972 the Welsh dragon representing symbol, as it signified a thriving triggered Caerwys to reaffirm its status as a the Royal Charter of 1290; a community. I am pleased to see that town. A new Caerwys Town Council was created harp representing the town’s Caerwys continues to thrive today." and the first Mayor, Councillor Elwyn association with eisteddfodau. Parry, was appointed. To celebrate Berwyn Roberts this, funds were raised to design and produce a Mayor’s Badge and Chain of Office. Sir John Herbert Lewis (1858-1933) John Herbert Lewis, whose family had lived at Plas Penucha since the 15th century, became an influential liberal politician. As an Alderman he successfully campaigned for improved secondary education in the county. He was elected as MP for Flint Boroughs in the 1892 General Election and remained in Parliament for 30 years, as both a backbencher and a government minister, becoming a close friend and political ally of Lloyd George. He was instrumental in the establishment of the Welsh National Museum and Library. Mayor, Berwyn Roberts, and Mayoress, Betty Roberts, receiving their chains from Caerwys’ oldest residents, Caroline Johnson and Percy Williams. Rocks and riches he varied landscape of the Caerwys area is the result of the underlying rocks. To the south and east the land rises to the T Paper making at Afonwen Clwydian Range, a 22 mile ridge of shale hills, that provide a stunning visual backdrop to the area. 1870 refers to the cleanliness of Afonwen mill and the high quality of its The town itself sits on a limestone plateau that stretches north towards paper, which was in demand for lawyer’s deeds, account books and bank the coast. The limestone has been quarried on a small scale for centuries. notes. It closed in 1918 and a glove factory opened on the site. In 1966 Old stone walls still edge fields and most of the older local houses were the mill was used to make Welsh tweeds. Today tourism has taken over built of the local limestone. There were numerous limekilns, where the as the main industry and the former industrial buildings are now part crushed limestone was burned to produce lime for building mortar or of the attraction for visitors. The chimneys have been demolished but to fertilise the soil. Tufa, a very soft limestone that was once used to Afonwen Craft and Antiques Centre and Edenshine Restaurant is located make cement, and later, widely used in alpine gardens, was extracted at in some of the original mill buildings, alongside Caerwys Tufa Quarry.