High in Heidelberg

NG 3.5 PubDate: 28-08-2016 Zone: Mumbai Edition: 1 Page: MMIRSPO4 User: dharmesh.rathod Time: 08-27-2016 20:10 Color: CMYK

SundayMumbaiMirror 27 WOODY ALLEN ADDRESSESALLEGATIONS OF SUNDAY, AUGUST 28, 2016 LEISURE SEXUALABUSEPG 31 WWW.MUMBAIMIRROR.COM/LEISURE [email protected] PICS: RATHINA SANKARI TRAVEL Going off track in

It’s almost as cliché as a postcard coming alive. But then again, some clichés, like this fairytale town, exist for a reason Rathina Sankari unscathed during WW II in times. The miscreants were then punished [email protected] contrast to other German cities that by forcibly immersing them numerous TWEETS @MumbaiMirror were devastated. times in the Neckar river. On the other side of the street in the I walked behind the church to stumble s I took the bus from Frankfurt centre of the Marktplatz was a fountain upon a quaint confectionary selling the airport to Heidelberg dark clouds with a statue of Hercules on a column. world famous Student’s Kiss that was gift- had already started to loom in The city had faced two wars in the 17th ed by bachelors to the young ladies chap- the distant horizon. It was my century and to demonstrate the strength eroned by governesses. The handmade Afirst visit to Germany and I was of its inhabitants to rise from devastation, chocolate delight, a creation of chocolati- all excited to explore its southern end — a statue of the Greek hero was erected in er Fridolin Knösel in 1863 was a means of sprinkled with lakes, forests, Alps and a early 18th century. Next to the Market expressing love discreetly to the fairer sex. generous dose of local food and culture. Square stood the Church of the Holy I walked out of the tantalizing chocolate But what excited me the most was Ghost with a Baroque-styled tower roof. smelling shop with a box of sweet kisses romantic and baroque Heidelberg. Back It was divided into two sections from 1705 that had been given to the likes of home a septuagenarian aunty had to 1936 after a wall was erected in between Michelle Obama as a souvenir of beamed, “You are heading to Germany; the church so that both Protestants and Heidelberg. Love has many languages you must ensure you do not miss Catholics could have separate services. In to exhibit one’s feelings but this Heidelberg, it is so beautiful.” the 16th century, the clergy ordered that impish creation is indeed one And so there I was, after an hour-and- craftsmen and bakers could set up shops dreamy affair. » a-half ride on the autobahn, at the door- around the church. The bakers would I sauntered towards the PAGE 32 step of Lotte Hostel, close to the Clockwise (L-R) The castle shrouded in mist, cheat by selling pretzels that were small in Neckar Bridge which once Heidelberg castle in the heart of the alt- Braverfladen with rosé wine; Baroque-styled size. Soon pretzels of appropriate size were stadt (old town). Carmen, the charming tower of Church of the Holy Ghost; Jester engraved on the outer walls of the bakery, owner of the hostel, helped me chalk out Perkeo with his goblet a large one when the harvest was good, an itinerary during my stay in Heidelberg. and a smaller version when it was bad. After a brief rest, armed with a detailed Heidelberg, which is also the longest This made it easy for clients to buy the plan I ventured out and my first stop was pedestrian shopping street in Germany. right size pretzels. As I sauntered around at Bier Brezel a German tavern to satiate The beautiful Neckar river flows parallel to the area I noticed inscriptions on the walls my hunger pangs. The interiors were very the hauptstrasse. Heidelberg is fish bone- which I was told were concealed by some rustic with stone walls as the waitress shaped with the hauptstrasse as the cen- bakers in the served beer in drinking horns (horn of a tral bone and numerous alleys radiating olden bovid) that go well with typical German from it called gasse. With a 130,000 popu- cuisine. I decided to have a Braverfladen lation of which 40,000 are students, (flat bread), freshly made in their stone Heidelberg is home to the oldest oven topped with a spread of white university in Germany. The sauce, cream cheese, tangy tomato and city is more than 800 a generous sprinkling of rucola leaves. years old and I washed down the large portion with a escaped glass of rosé wine. I stepped out onto the cobbled hauptstrasse, the Bridge over the Neckar river main street of FACT FILE

BEST TIME TO VISIT: Visitors prefer the summer (mid-June through mid-October) when the weather is pleasant HOW TO GET THERE: Fly to Frankfurt. Many international airlines offer direct flights every day to the city from across India. From Frankfurt airport, one can go by road (one-and-a-half hours) or take a train to Heidelberg WHERE TO STAY: Lotte Hostel is a clean and economical option (Burgweg 3 69117 Heidelberg; tel. +49 (0)6221 - 735 0 725; www.lotte-heidelberg.de). A bed in the dor- mitory would cost from €22. For a luxury stay head to Hotel Zum Ritter that has stood since 1592. (St. Georg Hauptstrasse 178 69117 Heidelberg; tel. +49-6221- View of Heidelberg city from the castle 705050; www.hotel-ritter-heidelberg.com) A standard room would cost from € 89. NG 3.5 PubDate: 28-08-2016 Zone: Mumbai Edition: 1 Page: MMIRCH2 User: dharmesh.rathod Time: 08-27-2016 19:19 Color: CMYK

LEISURE www.mumbaimirror.com/leisure SundayMumbaiMirror | SUNDAY, AUGUST 28, 2016 32

» was the entry point of Heidelberg. Taxes were levied half metres wide Great Vat which can hold 58,124 PAGE 27 on merchants bringing goods to the city at the gallons of wine was built by Prince Elector Karl bridge. In the distance I could see the ruins of Theodor in 1751 to collect wine as tax. During the Heidelberg castle sitting daintily on a verdant hill. reign of Prince Elector Carl Philip it was closely White, pillowy curtains of mist enveloped it as in a guarded by the court jester Perkeo whose figurine fairy tale. The funicular railway operates daily to the can be seen drinking wine from a goblet in the cellar. castle but I decided to walk the entire scenic route. I climbed the spiral staircase that took me to a dais The Heidelberg Schloss (castle) has many erections above the barrel which once was used as a dance that were built in different periods from the early floor by the drunk. Think of socialisation and party 14th century to the 17th century. Prince Elector in the olden times. Ruprecht III was the first to use it as a royal residence. The view of the city and the Neckar river from the In the 17th century the hill on which the castle sits castle is as if a painting has come alive. As I walked was used as a quarry to build the castle in Mannheim. around the castle I noticed the weather beaten, battle The Heidelberg castle went up in flames twice due to worn site. Mark Twain wrote in A Tramp Abroad, “Out the French war in 1689 and 1693. In 1764 lightning of a billowy upheaval of vivid green foliage rises the struck the castle and it became inhabitable. To com- huge ruin of Heidelberg Castle, with empty window memorate these fires, firework display takes place arches, ivy-mailed battlements, moldering towers — thrice every summer. The gardens of the schloss the Lear of inanimate nature — deserted, discrowned, before being destroyed in the war of the Palatine suc- beaten by the storms, but royal still, and beautiful.” cession were breathtaking with beautiful ponds, flow- Indeed despite the ravages the schloss looked er beds, mazes, sculptures, waterfalls and grotto. The ravishing. Heidelberg’s numerous jewels have Heidelberg Tun or the world’s largest wine barrel fas- attracted many artists, intellectuals and academics cinated me. The huge cask has fascinating stories across the globe. I was a mere drop in that mighty Heidelberg in the fall with the castle in the background associated to it. The seven metres high and eight and ocean. Care to join?