ANDAMAN & NICOBAR ISLANDS to dorevive thesebeautifulislands’tourismfacilities. cost andenergy ofrepairing thedamage,demoralisedmanyislandersandthere’s stillmuch slowly developing butthealmosttotalabsenceoftouristsduring2005,coupledwith the movement.tilted small-scaletouristinfrastructure withtheearth Pre-tsunami, hadbeen noticeably escaped majordamage,thoughotherislandssuchasHavelock andInterview Andaman Islandanddamagetothereefs nearWandoor,themainAndamanislandgroup fromfloodingonlow-lyingareas ofSouth erly NicobarIslandsandLittleAndaman.Apart Boxing Daytsunami,which,inturn,ledtodevastatinglossoflife andhomesonthesouth- forests, althoughtheNicobarIslandsare off-limitstotourists. comprises 572tropicalislands(ofwhich36are inhabited), withuniquewildlife andlush Blair,thecapital,onSouthAndaman.Thedescendants wholive territory inandaroundPort peoples, buttodaythemajorityofAndamans’populationare mainlandsettlersortheir Bay ofBengal. culture lure travellers tothesemysterious islands,1000kmofftheeastcoastofIndiain ible coralsandmarinelife, anintriguingcolonialpastandtheremnants ofaStoneAge butisgeographicallyclosertoSoutheastAsia. Superb,near-deserted beaches,incred- Andaman and Nicobar Islandsare nowarelaxed tropicalislandoutpostthatbelongsto –BlackWaters –fortheirroleasafearedOnce knownasKalapani penalsettlement,the Islands Andaman &Nicobar 1106 © LonelyPlanetPublications The islandsare thatcausedthe2004 closetotheepicentre oftheunderseaearthquake Until thebeginnings ofcolonialrule,theislandswere populated mainlybyindigenous

„ „ „ „ „ HIGHLIGHTS Relive the horror of ’s origin Relive asa the horrorofPort Take of aroadtripthroughthejungleheart Explore theghostsofcolonialpaston Scubadive amongthecoralandbigfishof thereefs, Snorkel loungeonthebeaches penal colony atthe and islandsaround the Andamanstoquietcoastalbeaches Ross Island Havelock Island the islands’world-classsites, accessiblefrom Havelock Island and cruisethroughmangrove swampson the East’ (p1121) ( p1117 ) –theformer‘Paris of (p1119) (p1118) Cellular Jail (p1113) and

Port Blair Ross Island Mayabunder Havelock Island Diglipur & Nicobar ANDAMAN & NICOBAR ISLANDS 1107 03192 % Population: 356,265 Population: 8248 sq km Area: code: Telephone April to go: December to early When

FAST FACTS FACTS FAST „ „ „ „

but now local lobby groups are becoming becoming are but now local lobby groups vocal. more Climate within the 23°C Sea temperatures keep breezes at around 80% and the humidity to 31°C range to The southwest monsoons come all year. and the islands between roughly mid-May northeast monsoons early October, and the The best and December. between November massive migration from the mainland has migration from the mainland has massive the island population from only a few inflated 350,000. During this than thousand to more influx, tribal land rights and environmental extent, to some disregarded were protection ISLANDS •• History & NICOBAR ANDAMAN

It was a far more devastating event at 7.58am on 26 December 2004, when an undersea at 7.58am on 26 December 2004, when an undersea devastating event It was a far more spared. Fortunately Andaman Island chain was largely the northerly densely populated and more Dr MikeBritish geologist Searle says some 1300km of the boundary between the Indian plate earthquake off the northeastern tip of Sumatra (Indonesia). It was not 9.0 occurred measuring swept across the Bay tsunami that that caused the most damage, but the powerfulthe tremors of Bengal and Andaman Sea, devastating parts of Indonesia, Sri Lanka, Thai- India, the Maldives, the Andaman beneath occurred aftershock a massive Soon after, land and the Nicobar Islands. coast of islands along the west damage and uplifting several and Nicobar Islands, causing more on the the Andaman chain (including Interview tsunami’s effect Island) by as much as 2m. The Nicobar, Car hit the islands, including Great When the wave low-lying Nicobar Islands was severe. Nicobar, , Nancowrie, Katchall caught were and many smaller islands, thousands missing and thousands left 6100 confirmed dead, many more show Officialin its wake. figures difficult, Initial access to some islands proved camps in Port to relief Blair. homeless, evacuated islands’ waiting for help. The left stranded for days, without food or water, so many people were to signs in the natural world, most had moved fatalities; responding few tribal people suffered hit. the wave to higher ground before into surged Low-lying parts flooded, leaving many homeless, and water of South Andaman were of Port but with little lasting damage. areas Blair and islands such as Havelock, shore while the Indian to the east, was ruptured, to the west and the Burma-Andaman-Sumatra plate east. While such a to the pushing under the Burma-Andaman-Sumatra plate is presently plate clearly a seismic islands are again be seen again, these remote catastrophe will hopefully never hotspot. EARTHQUAKES & AFTERSHOCKS & AFTERSHOCKS EARTHQUAKES In 1941 an is no stranger to earthquakes Andaman and Nicobar Island chain The and tremors. earthquake scale rocked 7.7 on the Richter measuring South and Middle Andaman, destroying A on Ross Island to be abandoned. centre many buildings and causing the British administrative than a India, and more the east coast of reached of about 1m reportedly tsunami wave resulting the next six months on the islands. over felt earthquakes were dozen and aftershocks In the late 17th century, the islands were century, the islands were 17th In the late Following Independence in 1947, the in 1947, the Following Independence History History Andaman and Nicobar Islands were incor- Islands were Andaman and Nicobar into the Indian Union. Since then, porated them, while others regarded them as liberators them as liberators regarded them, while others from British colonialism. were regarded with ambivalence by the island- with ambivalence by regarded were guerrilla activities against Some initiated ers. from mainland India and later to incarcer- later from mainland India and fighters freedom political dissidents – the ate During WWII, the for Indian independence. who the Japanese, occupied by islands were the British found a use for them as a penal criminals colony, initially to detain ‘regular’ annexed by the Marathas, whose empire con- whose empire by the Marathas, annexed Two centuries later India. of sumed vast areas monk Xuan Zangmonk Xuan 17-year journey during his through India. 2nd century by Greek astronomer Ptolemy, astronomer by Greek 2nd century Chinese in the 7th century by and again but their presence was documented in the in the was documented but their presence It’s not known when the first inhabitants ar- the first not known when It’s Islands the Andaman and Nicobar on rived lonelyplanet.com ὄ ὄ ὄ ὄὄὄ ANDAMAN & NICOBAR ISLANDS 1108 National Park ANDAMAN ISLANDS (10km) Island Sentinel To North Bengal Middle Mahatma Sandy Island Coral Reef Bay Gandhi Marine Jolly Buoy of Bengal Red Skin Defence Island South Coral Island West Bay Reef Island of Herbertahad naa ioa sad • Gorpy&Evrnet &Environment Andaman &NicobarIslands••Geography Andaman Andaman Islands Twins Little Checkpoint South ὄ Spike Island Interview Wrightmyo The Sisters Andaman North Reef Island Brothers Bamboo Flat Middle Anderson Island Wandoor The Island White CliffIsland Paget Island Andaman

Rutland aman

Island And North Meadows Trunk Sippighat To HutBay Kadamtala Chiriya Tapu Reef Island Cinque Rd Coco Channel Austen Island West Island Port Mayabunder (10km) Mt Harriet(365m) Ramkrishnagram Port Blair Madhuban Bharatang Ross Island Phaiapong Lakshmipur Peel Island Island Nabagram Uttara Havelock Havelock Tugapur Island Island Strait 12miles 20km 0 0 A NDM Shyamnagar Pahlagaon Santipur Passage Dharmapur Stewart Island Island North Long Island Cuthbert Amkunj Islands (260km); S EA Great Nicobar Bay Ramnagar To Nicobar Saddle Peak (500km) John Lawrence Diglipur Neil Island Archipelago Rose Island (732m) To Narcondam East Island Ross Island Sir Hugh Island (90km) Ritchie's Lawrence Island Smith Outram Island Henry Island Island To Barren (65km) Island many important treemany important species,includingthere- evergreen andmoistdeciduousforests contain Furtherinlandthetall to bothlandandsea. landscape, offering anaturalprotective barrier abundant dugongshave allbutvanished. dolphins are frequently sighted, theonce excellent breeding groundsforturtles.While and hornbills.Theisolated beaches provide megapodes, swiftlets( endemic, andincludeeagles,ground-dwelling Almost 50%of theislands’250birdspeciesare palm civet andspeciesof tree shrews andbats. wild pig,thecrab-eatingmacaque,masked arethe islands.Amongthese theAndaman Of 62identifiedmammals,32are uniqueto endemic speciesof bothplantsandanimals. ofbar Islandshasledtotheevolution many south of LittleAndaman. 6408 sqkm.TheNicobarIslandsbegin50km the landarea istaken upbytheAndamansat and SumatrainIndonesia. Themajority of Myanmar(Burma) almost 1000kmbetween merged range mountain thatextends for The islandsformthepeaksof avastsub- Geography &Environment pressive, pleasant. andthenights April, whenthedaysare warm,butnotop- Decemberandearly time tovisitisbetween ment guesthouses andbasic forestment guesthouses rest houses. outsidePort Blairwereto stay govern- tatty tsunami. Justafew years agotheonly places slow progress of tourism recovery after the on thewayupin the Andamans,despite the Accommodation choices are andstandards ACCOMMODATION main tourismbodyfortheislands. h p1114; advance ifyou’re travelling times. atthese bed inPortBlair;bookaccommodation domestic holidaymakers canfillliterally every and January, andOctober andinSeptember isDecember by4am.Thepeakseason light This meansthatitcanbedarkby5pmand land, theAndamansstillrunonIndiantime. Even they’re though 1000kmeastof themain- Information dark colours tree. occurringinthesame and nowned padauk–ahardwoodwithlight Andaman & Nicobar Tourism Andaman &NicobarTourism are aspectof animportant the The isolationof theAndamanandNico- 8.30am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-noonSat) 8.30am-1pm &2-5pmMon-Fri, % 232747; www.tourism.andaman.nic.in; Port Blair; Port 232747; www.tourism.andaman.nic.in; hawabill

lonelyplanet.com (A&N Tourism; Map Map (A&N Tourism; ), doves, teals isthe ANDAMAN & NICOBAR ISLANDS .

(CWW; 1109 Forestry (Map Kolkata

Port Blair 232747; http:// 8.30am-1pm & 8.30am-noon & 1-4pm Chennai (Calcutta; % (SCI; www.shipindia h h Kolkata Chief Wildlife Warden Chief Wildlife Warden 8.30-11am & 3-5pm, closed Sun) (Map p1114 ; p1114 (Map h (

044-25231401; Rajaji Salai); 233549; Haddo Rd; % ( 044-28278210); % 233347; Aberdeen Bazaar) % where your application should consist of your application should consist of where % Chennai

033-22482354; 1st fl, 13 Strand Rd); 033-22482354; 1st fl, 13 Strand 033-22473300) If you plan to do something complicated, For most day permits it’s not the hassle of Students with valid ID often only pay mini- Students with valid ID often normally off limits The Nicobar Islands are Boat passengers will probably be met by probably be met by will Boat passengers ally issued for as long as you ask, up to the you ask, up as long as for ally issued 30-day maximum. % National Parks & Sanctuaries & Sanctuaries National Parks tourism.andaman.nic.in; Port Blair; 2-5pm Mon-Fri, Sat) 8.30am-noon mal entry fees, but must produce a letter from must produce a letter but mal entry fees, Warden in Port Blair au- the Chief Wildlife thorising the discount. in re- to all except Indian nationals engaged business or trade. search, government (Madras; % it, how much needed, getting how to go about it costs and whether it is in fact possible to get one (it’s not always). you’ll be sent to the ; p1114 Map Mon-Fri) stating the boat your case,a letter the name of all things being equal, involved; and the dates the permit should be issued within the hour. hurts. For areas it but the cost that getting National Gandhi Marine as Mahatma such Smith Islands near Digli- and Ross and Park, pur, the permits cost Rs 50/500 for Indians/ National Park, For Saddle Peak foreigners. also near Diglipur, the cost is Rs 25/250. Foreigners’ Registration Office Shipping Corporation of India to visit some required Additional permits are a lot of national parks and sanctuaries. To save the ‘single of advantage running around, take and information for permits window’ system ) in opposite at the A&N Tourism office (see now also a there’s Port Blair, where Department Desk find out whether a permit is you can Here an immigration officialan immigration if not on arrival, but should seek office out the immigration at won’t be able – you immediately Jetty Haddo (police around without the permit to travel ask to see will frequently when it, especially disembarking hotels on another island, and may also needdetails). the Check current with: boat travel regarding regulations A&N Tourism office .com) ( p1114 ; is held is held (www.tourism

A&N Tourism ISLANDS •• Information & NICOBAR ANDAMAN . Island Tourism Festival Festival Island Tourism The 10-day The FESTIVALS IN THE ANDAMAN ANDAMAN IN THE FESTIVALS ISLANDS .andaman.nic.in) in Port Blair, usually in January. Dance in Port Dance Blair, usually in January. and from surrounding islands groups come and various cultural perform-the mainland, Complex. held at the Exhibition ances are aspects bizarre more One of the festival’s also but there’s is the Andaman dog show, and a fancy- a flower show, a baby show For information, check competition! dress of the website To obtain the permit, air travellers simply To obtain the permit, air travellers Prices shoot up in the peak seasonPrices shoot (15 De- The permit also allows day trips to Jolly All foreigners need to visit the An- a permit All foreigners Camping is currently not permitted on on not permitted Camping is currently present their passport and fill out a form on their passport and fill present usu- are arrival at Port Blair airport. Permits Buoy, South Cinque, Red Skin, Ross, Narcon- dam, Interview and Rutland Islands, as well and The Sisters. as The Brothers ing tribal areas), Havelock and Neil Islands. Havelock ing tribal areas), areas), North Andaman (Diglipur), Long Is- areas), Little Andaman (exclud- land, North Passage, South and Middle Andaman (excluding tribal daman Islands, and it’s issued free on arrival. free daman Islands, and it’s issued can be extended The 30-day permit (which to stay in Port to 45 days), allows foreigners Overnight on also permitted stays are Blair. Most senior civil servants come to Port Blair on two-year postings from the mainland. staff, that of be aware a turnover With such tourism and regarding rules and regulations subject to sudden changes. permits are PERMITS PERMITS public land or national parks in the islands. cember to 15 January). Prices given in this in this Prices given cember to 15 January). for midseason to 30 (1 October are chapter to September is April, excluding peak). May low season. beach on Havelock for less than Rs 150. for less on Havelock beach places in Port Blair are grossly overpriced for overpriced grossly places in Port Blair are find a can travellers the quality – but budget in Port Blair or a simple hut by the lodge cheap low, accommodation is expensive by Indian by Indian expensive low, accommodation is and top-end the midrange standards – some of or a handful of romantic upmarket resorts on resorts romantic upmarket or a handful of are and Neil Islands. Although taxes Havelock These bamboo huts days you can stay in cheap lonelyplanet.com ANDAMAN & NICOBAR ISLANDS of diveandaccommodationpackages. between VillagesNo3and5,thisoperatoroffers avariety Based atIslandVinnie’sTropicalBeachCabanas,midway diving, snorkelling rewarding. canbehighly Much easierand cheaper toarrange than SNORKELLING andotherdiveon these sites. www.diveindia.com information fordetailed ited onday-dives fromHavelock. Checkout Lodge. NeilIslandsites areMinerva alsovis- and TheWall, PilotReef Point, Lighthouse, Seduction City,TurtleBay, ium, Barracuda Island where sites includeMac Point, Aquar- The greatest range of Havelock optionsisoff of foralllevels sites suitable dive experience. 10mand20m,there between arebe seen Much of theAndamans’underwater life can Dive Sites also recommended. fora while. If around, he’s off-island been .com) Club Dive Another long-term dive operator, India Dive Scuba Barefoot directly tothepark. cost of Rs1000perperson perdaypayable dive. Innationalparksthere’s anadditional around US$45/70forasingle/doubleboat cheap (compared withSoutheastAsia) at butdivingintheAndamansisnot course, number of participantsanddurationof the ing. Pricesvarydependingonthelocation, courses (US$270),aswellDivemaster train- US$100), openwater (US$350)andadvanced dives, Discover ScubaDivingcourses (around April. Thecentres offer fullyequippedboat soon –runsfromabout November toabout –dependingonthemon- main dive season onHavelockoutfits based Island,andthe There are currently twoprofessional dive Dive Operators world-class divingdestination. covered sites make theAndamanIslandsa scopic marinelife andsomevirtuallyundis- waters,Crystal-clear superbcoral, kaleido- DIVING Activities 1110 Barefoot atHavelockresort. with Village inHavelock,thisdiveoperationisconnected atNo3 www.barefootindia.com) BasedatCafé delMar , is based atNo1Village, he’s though , isbased NAA IOA SAD • Atvte ANDAMAN &NICOBARISLANDS••Activities Mp p1118; (Map (Map (Map p1118 ; Mp p1118; (Map % % 282002; www.andamandiveclub 282187; www.diveindia.com) % in Port Blair237656; in Port Andaman island-fishing.com) Getting There&Away of Phuket makes portunities. Theoccasionalcharter boatout mid-Marchtween andmid-May. with pick-upanddrop-off inPortBlair,be- couple of live-aboard surfingcharters ayear, off theeastcoast. tinue todriftdownthere forthereliable waves the islandisstillquite remote, surfers con- up toforeigners years ago. several Although ing about whisper- been have travellers surfing Intrepid SURFING &FISHING and JollyBuoy,nearWandoor. accessible snorkelling sites includeRedSkin kelling Otherrelatively isNorthBay. easily you cansnorkel offshore onNeilIsland. inaccessiblecoralreefs andislands, wise tion placesorganise boattripsouttoother- places forsnorkelling asmanyaccommoda- Island isoneof easiest, thebest,andcertainly cheaper andthechoice isgreater). Havelock Blair (ortheIndianmainland,where it’s to bringyourownorbuysomefromPort gear –isavailable forhire, butyoumayprefer after thetsunami, andatleastuntilthe airport tohave shelved been seem Blair, but these rect fromPhuket flights (Thailand) toPort to coincidewithflights. daily fromDelhi;theirairportcounters open flies dailyfromChennai,andAirSahara flies daily fromChennai(US$235).Air Deccan h Airways (US$245). Chennai (US$230)andKolkata & 2-4pmMon-Sat) 22110730; Indian Airlines AIR season. ensure inhigh aseat is relatively quickandeasybutbookaheadto orDelhi city. FlyingfromChennai,Kolkata fromeach afortnight mainland two sailings to planaheadasthere’s usuallyonlyoneor It’salongjourneyandyou’llneed Kolkata. ifyoutake theboatfromChennaior in itself totheAndamanscanbeanadventureGetting Snorkelling notalwaysgood gear – though The Andamansalsohave gamefishing op- placetoPortBlairforsnor-The closest There’s forsomeyears talk aboutdi- been 9am-7pm Mon-Sat,9am-3pmSun)

( Chennai Port Blair Little Andaman (

Chennai

, usuallyaroundMarch. % flies dailytoPortBlairfrom Map Map p1114 ; 044-28414141; live-aboard trips live-aboard SEAL

% (http://seal-asia.com)

044-28555201; sinceitfirst opened % 233108; flies atleastonce lonelyplanet.com Port Blair (www.andaman

Kolkata h

% offers a a offers 9am-1pm

236922; % 033- Jet ANDAMAN & NICOBAR ISLANDS 1111 (Map p1114 ; SCI

(www.tourism A&N Tourism website, which usually posts an which website, 233347; www.shipindia.com; Aberdeen Bazaar, Port233347; www.shipindia.com; Blair). fortnightly and to/from Kolkata (56 hours) weekly (in high season) to/from Chennai (60 by operated on four vessels hours) % with the SCI is erratic, so check The schedule in advance or see the .andaman.nic.in)

(http://tourism. website & NICOBAR ISLANDS •• Getting & Away ANDAMAN There for updates. Nicobarese Nicobarese The not decreasing. the only indigenous people whose numbers are are Nicobarese 30,000 The been partly into contemporary to Christianity and have converted assimilated majority have coco- man, they farm pigs and cultivate Indian society. Living in village units led by a head who probably descended from people of Malaysia and Nicobarese, The nuts, yams and bananas. Nicobar, the region on Car group, centred Myanmar, inhabit a number of islands in the Nicobar by the tsunami. worst affected Shompen Shompen Seminomadic hunter-gatherers Nicobar. on Great in the forests Shompen remain Only about 250 occupied by Indian and avoid areas integration resisted they have along the riverbanks, who live immigrants. Jarawa Jarawa and Middle on South Jarawa occupy the 639-sq-km reserve Andaman Islands. 350 remaining The and their an armed sea plane bomb Jarawa settlements In 1953 the chief commissioner requested and settler clearance Trunk Rd, forest by the Andaman disrupted has been consistently territory hostile to contact although Jarawa remain and tourist encroachment. Hardly surprisingly, most common. becoming more with outsiders are encounters Andamanese Andamanese Andamanese can escape extinction. 40, it seems impossible that the Now numbering only about but friendliness to the colonisers around 7000 Andamanese in the mid-19th century were There had been swept away by measles, was their undoing, and by 1971 all but 19 of the population on tiny . been resettled They’ve syphilis and influenza epidemics. Sentinelese outside con- repelled consistently Sentinelese, unlike in these islands, have the other tribes The years, contactparties beaches of North on the few arrive tact. Sentinel Island, the last Every plastic buckets, only of coconuts, bananas, pigs and red with gifts of the Sentinelese, redoubt less hostile. been a little have years encounters with arrows, although in recent to be showered About 250 Sentinelese remain. Onge Department by the Forest and ‘settled’ Island was takenOnge over Two-thirds of Little Andaman’s covering reserve in a 25-sq-km of the Onge tribe live members 100 or so remaining in 1977. The in Port camps to refugee Blair relocated (temporarily) and were and South Bay, Dugong Creek has declined studies suggest that the Onge population following the tsunami. Anthropological loss of territory. due to demoralisation through ISLAND INDIGENES INDIGENES ISLAND just 12% of the population constitute Islands’ indigenous peoples Andaman and Nicobar The decreasing. cases, their numbers are and, in most between the Indian mainland – Port Blair and BOAT BOAT usually four to six sailings a month are There the tourism department’s andaman.nic.in) is upgraded to full international status. Check is upgraded to full international lonelyplanet.com ANDAMAN & NICOBAR ISLANDS most islands andboththerigour andromance inataxi. hour, even don’t expecttocover anymore than30km an to Diglipur,325km northof But thecapital. MayabunderBharatang, Rangat, andfinally from PortBlairtoWandoor,and northto ferry crossingsandbridges. runsouth Buses North Andaman–isconnected byroad,with The mainislandgroup–South,Middle and process, particularlytooutlying islands. but getting aroundtheislandscan beaslow All roads–andferries –leadtoPortBlair, Getting Around on deck. Many travellers take ahammocktostringup andbeprepared sheet sleeping forfetid toilets. but ifyou’re travelling bunkclass,bringa plement yourdiet.Somebeddingissupplied, bring something(fruitinparticular)tosup- complains; Rs 150perday.Almosteveryone and thalisforlunch anddinner)costsaround forbreakfast,cabin (Rs5880).Food(tiffin A class(Rs4860,fourtosixberths) anddeluxe up is2ndorBclass(Rs3870,16berths), 1stor toget.(Rs 1510),which Next canbedifficult the cheapest classof accommodationisbunk and MV the MV cowry land whenpurchasing youroutwardticket. simpler toarrange return tickets onthemain- Jetty. Thisprocesscantake somedays,soit’s ticket Bay officeatPhoenix ping Services’ the approval letter totheDirectorate of Ship- system;under thetourist-quota youthentake ism office whereyouaberth theycanreserve Blair, gotothe1stfloorof theA&NTour- for more details). in AndhraPradesh(see Visakhapatnam p953 onceamonthfrom There isusuallyaservice two days,butonlyresidents maydisembark. anextra Nicobaronceamonth,taking Cap via fromChennaigoes or more. Theservice conditions, thetripcantake three fulldays with hold-ups,andvariable weatherandsea hours.dock nearPortBlairforseveral So harbour forupto12hours, orwaitingto have reported sittingontheboatatKolkata times withalarge grainof –travellers salt up-to-date schedule. Also,take thesailing 1112 Classes vary slightly between theboats,but between varyslightly Classes Ships currently are inuse theMV Of course, aboatistheonly waytoreach If you’re buyingyourreturn ticket inPort andMV NAA IOA SAD • Pr li Blair ANDAMAN &NICOBARISLANDS••Port Nicobar Harshavardan Swarajdweep andMV frombothports. Akbar fromChennai, from Kolkata, fromKolkata, Nan- very foronwardtravel useful plans 10pm) Next door to the India Tourism office. doortotheIndiaTourism 10pm) Next and book(andwaitfor)onwardtransport, to change money,reliably accesstheinternet teresting andasthisistheonlyplace museums, to theislands’colonialpastplusacoupleof in- intownrelatingislands. There’s plentytosee centreand istheadministrative of nerve the a harbourontheeastcoastof SouthAndaman The green, sprawlsaround ramshacklecapital 100,186 pop PORT BLAIR Centre Bookings complex,atthe made intheSecretariat lands’ Bookingsmustbemadeattheis- weekly). andDiglipur(Rs2125;once twice weekly) tinations includingHavelock Island(Rs850; todes- launched in 2003,remains inservice inadvance. timesuptoaweek sailing the inPortBlair; ules isinthedailynewssheets information about inter-island ferry sched- Diglipur amongothers. Thebestsourceof are regular Mayabunder ferries and toRangat, to get toHavelock andNeilIslands, andthere crowded decks.It’srelatively quickandeasy often flyingfish dolphinsfrom andeven see of ferry travel isalive andwellhere –you’ll Samsuva’s Internet Net Across 9.30pm, closedSun) Browsenet@Hitech ACCESSINTERNET GB Pant Hospital Aberdeen PoliceStation EMERGENCY Information The airportisabout 4kmsouthof town. around orabove theAberdeen area. Bazaar Jettyisland ferries Bay fromPhoenix are Most of thehotels, andinter- thebusstation Orientation Havelock oroneof theotherislands. below thewater –bookaferry andmove onto natural beautyof theAndamans–above and days here. Ifyouwanttoexperiencethemore most travellers willspendatleastacoupleof 8pm) Between postofficeandYMCA. Indian mainlandtrainbookingscanalsobe inter-islandA subsidised helicopter ser vice, Andaman Herald Secretariat (Junglighat Main Rd;perhrRs20; Main (Junglighat ( ( h %

( (MA Rd;perhrRs30; (MGRd;per hrRs40; % 8am-12.30pm &1-2pm) 232102; GBPant Rd) 230093) and ( % Daily Telegrams 233077, 32100;MGRd) inPortBlair. lonelyplanet.com h h . h which is 8.30am- 9am- 9am- Railway Railway list ANDAMAN & NICOBAR ISLANDS 9am-

1113 (admis- h is a good is a good 8am-2.30pm, h swimming pool (Haddo Rd; adult/child Rs helps unlock the helps unlock the

. These include the zoo 9am-5.30pm Tue-Sun) 9am-5.30pm (admission Rs 2;

is clean enough, and open h (Mahabir Singh Rd; adult/child Rs 5/3;

saw mill 232291; Indian/foreigner Rs 10/50; Rs 232291; Indian/foreigner Mon- Sat) was set up by the British in 1836 % Inside is the forest museum, which Inside is the forest ( h

8am-5pm, closed Mon) aquarium h 9am-1pm & 2-4.45pm, closed Wed & 2nd Sat of month) mens in small tanks, including puffer fish, the aquarium, Opposite fish. and tiger batfish the Olympic-sized public sion Rs 25; to men only 6.30am to 8am and 5pm to 6pm, to women only 4pm to 5pm, and to families 6pm to 7pm. It’s closed at other times. bridge), the bridge), closed Sun) wood processors the largest and was one of in Asia. padauk, and has displays on the history of timber milling on the island. It may not be to conservationists – especially everyone’s taste – on the is- perspective a different but it gives lands’ colonial history and economy. SWIMMING POOL & AQUARIUM The h the 350 species found in the displays some of Andaman Sea – many pickled in formalde- speci- live interesting hyde – as well as more authentic reconstructions of tribal dwellings of authentic reconstructions – information with decent – if old fashioned Andaman- and a small selectionin English, of in the gift shop. books related MINI-ZOO to the the 200 animal species unique Some of islands can be seen at the in rusting cages small and rather sad 2/1; pig (the staple the Andaman Nicobar pigeon, tribal groups) and the crab-eating some diet of time is 8.30am to 9am, and Feeding macaque. at 10am and 3pm. film shown a short there’s SAW MILL FOREST MUSEUM & CHATHAM by a road Island (reached on Chatham Located camera/video Rs 20/40; camera/video eco-system. on the islands’ a handle get place to several Across find informative galleries you’ll the islands’ tribal communities, displays on out the giant (check and shells plants, animals to cor- as well as rooms dedicated clam shell), archaeology. als and marine MUSEUM ANTHROPOLOGICAL clothing and tools, of With excellent displays this islanders, the indigenous of photographs museum 1pm & 1.30-4.30pm, closed Thu) are There local tribal cultures. of mysteries displays locally grown woods, including the mu- is well sound-and- 9am-noon & 1-3pm 9am-noon & 1-3pm Cellular Jail National depicts the jail’s 8.30am-1pm & 2-5pm 9am-5pm Mon-Sat) h h 232747; www.tourism h % (MA Rd; (MA ( 233006; 2nd fl, 189 Junglighat Main233006; 2nd fl, 189 Junglighat 233358; [email protected]; 9am-1pm & 2-6pm Mon-Sat) This is9am-1pm & 2-6pm ISLANDS •• Port & NICOBAR ANDAMAN Blair (MG Rd; % % h ( ( (adult/child Rs 20/10)

(GB Pant Rd; admission Rs 5, camera/video Rs Rd; admission Rs 5, camera/video (GB Pant 232012, ext 2214; Haddo Rd; adult/child Rs 10/5,

(cnr Foreshore & MA Rds) & MA (cnr Foreshore 9am-12.30pm & 1.30-5pm; closed Mon) (cnr MG Rd & MA Rd, Aberdeen Bazaar) Near Rd, Aberdeen Bazaar) Near (cnr MG Rd & MA 8.30am-12.30pm & 1-5pm Mon-Fri) Formerly the % h (

h

An informative and atmospheric An informative Aberdeen Bazaar; Aberdeen Bazaar; one of severaltravel agencies with foreign-exchange facilities. .andaman.nic.in; Kamaraj.andaman.nic.in; Rd; Mon-Fri,Sat) This is the main island tourist 8.30am-noon accommodation. office and the place to book government Mon-Fri, cheques and foreign 10am-noon Sat) Travellers can be changed here. currency SAMUDRIKA MARINE MUSEUM MUSEUM MARINE SAMUDRIKA this interesting navy, Run by the Indian seum and usually in English at 7.15pm but check at 7.15pm but check and usually in English vary depending and timing this, as language in visitors local and overseas of on numbers bad weather! for town. No refunds light show brutal history. It’s in nightly at 6pm what was once the central tower. an art gallery, museum, memorial, martyrs’ the original gallows, and good views from however, give a fair impression of the ‘hell on of a fair impression however, give There’s endured. here earth’ that the prisoners tower, but only three remain. These remnants, These remnants, remain. tower, but only three Memorial 10/50;

CELLULAR JAIL NATIONAL MEMORIAL MEMORIAL JAIL NATIONAL CELLULAR 18 years a period of Built by the British over from 1890, and preserved to In- as a shrine the fighters, dia’s freedom Sights & Activities Sights & Activities India Tourism TOURIST INFORMATION TOURIST INFORMATION A&N Tourism office Rd; Main post office Government of India tourist office, it has little information eager to help. about mainland India but its staff are POST POST UTI Bank State India Bank of the youth hostel. ICICI ATM ICICI ATM Island Travels where you can change cash or travellers travellers cash or change you can where and find an ATM. cheques, MONEY MONEY the Andamans place in is the only Port Blair lonelyplanet.com worth a visit to understand the islands’ colo- worth a visit to understand nial past and its significance in the memory Originally seven the Indian people. wings of from a central containing 698 cells radiated ANDAMAN & NICOBAR ISLANDS 1114 4 6 1 3 2 5 PORT BLAIR

Panipath Rd NAA IOA SAD • Pr li Blair ANDAMAN &NICOBARISLANDS••Port Chatham tt ako ni...... C3 State BankofIndia...... C3 Samsuva's Internet...... Andaman &Nicobar(A&N)Tourism Cellular JailNational Aquarium &Swimming Pool.. Anthropological Museum...... UTI BankATM...... UTI BankATM...... Shompen Travels...... Secretariat...... Net Across...... (see6) Main PostOffice...... Island Travels...... India Tourism...... ICICI BankATM...... GB PantHospital...... (see17) Chief WildlifeWarden...... Browsenet@Hitech...... Office...... Abedeen PoliceStation...... SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Haddo Wharf AC To Bamboo

Flat (6km)

Chatham

41 Rd Haddo 18 Fore

4 shore

19 Rd Haddo

AIR Rd Jetty 20 21 28 33 To Wandoor 14 13 12 11 10 16 15 24 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 (26km) C2 C3 C2 B3 C3 C3 C3 C2 B3 C3 A2 C3 C3 C3 Phoenix Bay

Kamaraj Rd B Jetty Durbar Hotel & JuiceBar...... Annapurna...... Youth Hostel...... Sun SeaResort...... Peerless Resort...... Complex...... Jagannath GuestHouse...... Hotel RajaMonsoonVilla...... Holiday Resort...... Fortune Resort–BayIsland.... Central Lodge...... Andaman TealHouse...... Samudrika MarineMuseum... Mini-Zoo...... Mill...... Memorial...... Megapode NestTourist B3 Hotel Aparupa...... Forest Museum&ChathamSaw EATING SLEEPING MA Rd

Junglighat Main Rd 25 13 (VIP 6

MG Rd 40 27

Rd) 37 Gandhi

Link Rd Statue 22 Tapu (32km) To Chiriya 23 38 5 30 3

Kamaraj Rd Tower 11 Clock A NDM 10 39 Airport 12 15 Aberdeen Bazaar 9 S EA 1 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 42 43

GB Pant Rd 2 8 B3 C3 C2 C3 C5 B2 B3 C2 B3 C2 B3 B2 B2 A2 A1 C2 7 26 31 32 34 Ὀ Ὀ ὄ ὄ 14 Taxi &Autorickshaw Stand.... Jet Airways...... (see 6) Indian Airlines...... Hire...... Ferry BookingOffice...... (see 40) Services...... Bus Stand...... Emporium...... Emporium...... Waves...... New Lighthouse Mandalay Restaurant...... (see23) Lighthouse Residency...... TRANSPORT SHOPPING Railway Booking Office...... (see10) Govindamma &CoMotorbike Directorate ofShipping Sagarika Government Andaman Handicrafts

To Viper Stadium Mahabir

MA Rd (10km) Restaurant...... Island 36 17 29 2km 1mile 0 0 Gandhi 16 Park 35 Marina

Park Singh Rd Singh Jetty Island (32km); Island (54km) Havelock To Neil Corbyn's Cove lonelyplanet.com 38 37 36 35 34 43 42 41 40 39 D C2 C3 A2 B2 C2 C3 B3 C5 C2 C2 Approximate Scale Island Ross ANDAMAN & NICOBAR ISLANDS This ) 1115 232207; 232207; a % (

234101; bayisla % (

241133; s/d Rs 400/550, 241133; s/d Rs 400/550, %

( 234060; Haddo Rd; d with- 238330; MG Rd; s/d from Rs 238330; MG Rd; s/d from Rs Run by A&N Tourism ) % ( 246582; [email protected];

% a (

% Port Blair’s top hotel boasts Port Blair’s top hotel At Haddo, on the hill above the hill above on At Haddo, ) (

Centrally tatty, this located, ) New in 2006, at these prices New in 2006, at these prices ) a as a Many cheap lodges line Aberdeen Bazaar. line Aberdeen lodges cheap Many Megapode Nest Tourist Complex Fortune Resort – Bay Island Hotel Aparupa Sun Sea Resort Hotel Raja Villa Monsoon place for a holiday, but it’s central, cleanish cleanish but it’s central, for a holiday, place [email protected]; Marine Hill; s/d from Rs 2749/3960; the ocean with above location, perched a great fine sea garden and views from its terraced The rooms, while com- balcony restaurant. balconies, neat floors, fortable with polished to ask for sure small and make furnishings, are [email protected]; off Haddo Rd; s/d from Rs 1000/1400, cot- tages Rs 2000; rooms have the of Many the upper midrange. doubles AC large are harbour views and there Prices cottages. yurt-style AC and generous and it’s pleasant to sit in include breakfast, the garden with a cold beer. TOP END at the follow- accepted cards are credit Major They and prices include breakfast. ing hotels but don’t expect luxury; their charms, have for the facilities offered. overpriced they’re office), this is reasonably central and has a office), this is reasonably rooms spilling through gar- ageing of range rooms at The AC dens and down the hillside. with TV, better, the top are carpet and furni- and musty. bare are – the others ture AC Rs 900/1200; Link Rd; s/d Rs 750/1050, with TV rooms with tile floors, and central AC. with a view of a good little restaurant There’s sorts and a bar. is the best value this include breakfast) (which in town. Clean, comfortable and central – a purple bar and with a truly unique exterior, – it is, however, nowhere restaurant an AC near the sea. and straddles budget and midrange mainly mainly and midrange budget and straddles rooms with TVs. AC are because there with AC Rs 550/900) is in a family-run hotel clean and friendly stallsand tea op- small shops of side-street main mosque. the town’s posite MIDRANGE House Andaman Teal out/with AC Rs 400/800; 900/1250; the bay, the Megapode Nest is good value in the bay, the Megapode (bookings must be made through(bookings must be made the tourist smart hotel has 26 smallish but immaculate but immaculate has 26 smallish smart hotel Set Set Opposite Opposite •• Port ISLANDS & NICOBAR ANDAMAN Blair 232148; 72 MA Rd; Rd; 232148; 72 MA Don’t be fooled ) % (

232642; Haddo Rd) An A&N ai 234231; Prem Nagar; s/d Rs Nagar; s/d Rs 234231; Prem % 243791; Link Rd; s/d with shared 243791; Link Rd; s/d with shared 233028; Kamaraj Rd) Provides ( % ( This is a reasonably good This is a reasonably 233034; [email protected];

% % 232459; dm/d Rs 50/100) ( (

% % ( (

Holiday Resort Jagannath Guest House Central Lodge Tourism agency. and clued-up of the Aberdeen Bazaar) The most helpful international travellers. agencies, used to dealing with 350/500, with AC Rs 600/800; dm/s/d Rs 60/200/300) the banana pancakes. a popular cheapie – a throwback to simple – a throwback a popular cheapie old, minus trail of lodgings on the backpacker back from the road, this is a basic wooden a bit grim but it’s building. Small rooms are bathroom Rs 70/120, with private 80/150) bathroom Rs often filled with groups. Management can be groups. Management filled with often foreigners. unwilling to accommodate the stadium, this is a rare Indian YHA, al- Indian YHA, the stadium, this is a rare though the only discount is for students (Rs place around but it’s 30). It’s still the cheapest BUDGET BUDGET Youth Hostel get ready for early-flight arrivals. for early-flight ready get in general is higher than its equivalent priced in general on the mainland. Checkout is usually 8am, to erdeen Bazaar. Within each price range there’s there’s price range Within each erdeen Bazaar. variety in quality, and accommodation a huge Blair, but most places are within a few kilo- within a few Blair, but most places are other around MA Rd and Ab- each of metres Sleeping Sleeping in Port scattered Accommodation is quite Shompen Travels local tours. Island Travels basically mean hiring a car and driver). car and driver). basically mean hiring a House Andaman Teal There are few scheduled tours, but the follow- tours, scheduled few are There (which tours private can arrange ing agencies Possible day tours include trips to Wandoor include trips day tours Possible to Mt Harriet. or Beach Tapu, and Chiryu picnicking locals on Sunday and holidays. picnicking locals Tours viewing and lazing around, and is packed with lazing around, and is packed viewing and CORBYN’S COVE COVE CORBYN’S airport and the of 4km east Cove, Corbyn’s beach is the nearest the town, 7km south of – a small curveto Port Blair sand backed of sunset- popular for swimming, by palms. It’s Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book budget choice, not least because choice, the manage- budget Rooms are ment is accustomed to travellers. a clean and most have simple but relatively small balcony. by the name – this isn’t a resort or much of a of or much by the name – this isn’t a resort ANDAMAN & NICOBAR ISLANDS next door. Indian dishes. Youcanget atthe resort a beer alongwithThaiand and lobster byweight), isavailable (MalaiSeafood prawnsRs75,crab beneath thepalms; indoors it’sabitdismal. is agoodspotforlunch meal oranevening This breezy open-air beachfront restaurant favourites. dishes make awelcomeadditiontotheIndian AC, cold,and ThaiandChinese thebeer’s by mouldwhenwevisited. there’s However overtaken seriously barhadbeen and cocktail hard tobechic, restaurant thisoncebright Rs 45-110; herea beer attraction, andyoucanalsoget breakfast or –isthemain andseason) depend onweight cluding wholefish, crabandlobster (prices sundry pilesof rubbish. Fresh –in- seafood withaviewoverair section thewater across to theaquarium,thishasabreezy semi-open- 25-75, seafoodRs150-350) thali (Rs20). of wellwitha spicyfish fillet(Rs10)goes juices, trythisplace;thelunchtime sidedish Rd; mainsfromRs20) peak season. go earlyorlate toavoid localtourgroupsin and afternoon snacks,aswellmainmeals; whips upgoodfresh restaurant, justsouthof Aberdeen Bazaar, stated otherwise. open forbreakfast, lunch anddinnerunless is available atafew listed are places,andthose multi-cuisine hotel restaurants. Goodseafood cheap Indianthaliplacesaroundthebazaarto Port Blairhasarange of eatingplaces–from Eating there’s atennis court,barandrestaurant. The manicured gardensare and pleasant, mosthave views. though abalconyandsea of maintenance andagoodclean,al- serious rooms are ageing, undersized andinneed the from Corbyn’sCove Otherwise, Beach. is themainplusforPeerless Resort–justback .in; s/dRs2250/3650,cottaged4500; and agoodrestaurant andbar. room.There’sa sea-facing aswimmingpool 1116 Waves Waves Lighthouse Residency Peerless Resort New LighthouseRestaurant &JuiceBar Durbar Hotel Annapurna NAA IOA SAD • Pr li Blair ANDAMAN &NICOBARISLANDS••Port (Corbyn’s Cove;mainsRs30-95; h . lunch &dinner) (MG Rd;fromRs20)

( % Forcheap cleaneatsand A decayingstructure next 229263; pblbeachinn@sancharnet (MA Rd,AberdeenBazaar;mains paratha Modern andtrying (near junction Haddo&MA (near junction

This spotlessveg (Marina Park; mainsRs (Marina a forbreakfast h Thelocation ) lunch &dinner) Point) but in high season youriskmissingout. season but inhigh ferries, tickets ontheboat canbepurchased boats, such astheNeilandHavelock Island 9am and11amthedaybefore travel. Onsome from theticketpurchased counters between Jetty.Bay Advancetickets forboatscanbe Most inter-island ferries departfromPhoenix BOAT the AndamanIslands. See p1110 ontransporttoandfrom fordetails Getting There&Away Emporium Government Sagarika Emporium Andaman Handicrafts countries’ restrictions onimportingthem. this –but,asalways,beaware of yourhome legally –agoodemporiumcanshow proof of shops. Mostof are theshellsonsale collected from ahandfulof emporiumsandspeciality lery, bambooandcanefurniture, are available shelljewel- crafts such asfinewoodcarvings, cheap goods.Island clothingandhousehold Aberdeen selling islinedwithstalls Bazaar Shopping Rs 200,lunch anddinnerRs350). (breakfast onthedailybuffets feast inseason is enjoyable forthe viewsalone,andyoucan deck restaurant Island atFortuneResort–Bay Cove, Haddo orChatham Island,you’llneed on foot,but ifyouwanttoget outtoCorbyn’s The centralarea toget iseasyenough around Getting Around returning byferry willtake only15minutes. a busat8.15amand4pm(Rs15,1½ hours); FlatandMountHarriet,trip toBamboo there’s 5.45am and10.50am(Rs65,sixhours). at 10.30am (Rs95,ninehours) andto Rangat direct toMayabunder busgoes at5amand at 4.30amtoDiglipur(Rs120,12hours). A door (Rs8,1½hours). There’s adailybus hangingfromtheroof.timetable inPortBlairhasaclear,currentThe busstand BUS minutes). ferries Flat(Rs3,15 passenger toBamboo Rd, Middle Point) Rd, Middle Mandalay Restaurant Mandalay From ChathamWharfthere are hourly If youwanttotake thescenic48kmroad toWan- includefourdailybuses Services

(Marine Hill) Hill) (Marine lonelyplanet.com ( (MG Rd, Middle (MG Rd,Middle % The open- 240141; MG ANDAMAN & NICOBAR ISLANDS 1117 , which covers 280 sq 280 sq covers , which islands, damaged during islands, damaged 9.30am-5pm), allowing 2½ 9.30am-5pm), allowing h Red Skin Mahatma Gandhi Marine National Park Mahatma and Buses run from Port Blair to Wandoor Buses run from Port Blair to Wandoor A harbour cruise to Viper Island leaves cruiseA harbour leaves to Viper Island Wandoor Jetty are a number of quiet, sandy a number of are Wandoor Jetty with some excellent snorkelling. beaches Chiriya Tapu Port Blair, is 30km south of Tapu, Chiriya and mangroves. with beaches a tiny village km and comprises 15 islands. The diverse km and comprisesislands. The diverse 15 tropical creeks, scenery includes supporting 50 types of and reefs rainforest at sites coral. The marine park’s snorkelling Jolly Buoy and boats leave reopened the tsunami, have for somewhat erratically from Wandoor Jetty the Rs 300); check visits to both (per person Depart- situation with the Forestry current ment desk at A&N Tourism in Port Blair. or at the You can pick up your permit there, However, office next to the Wandoor Jetty. your An- on or Neil Islands are if Havelock damans itinerary, you may find it easier and them for your to wait until you reach cheaper experience. underwater Mt Harriet Mt Harriet the inlet, north (365m) is across Harriet Mt a road up to the top Port Blair, and there’s of birding. To reach with good views and good the Bamboo take Flat passenger Mt Harriet, regu- leaves which (Rs 3, 15 minutes), ferry From Bamboo Flat larly from Chatham Jetty. the coast and up to the road runs 7km along will do the trip for around the summit. Taxis Rs 250 if you don’t want to walk. 29km a village speck of Wandoor tiny Wandoor, a Port Blair, is the jumping-off southwest of point for Rs 50/500) (Indian/foreigner from the jetty behind the Aquarium daily at Aquarium the jetty behind from the at way) stopping each 45 minutes 3pm (Rs 65, On Wednes- 20 minutes. about the island for going to Ross Island), boats are day (when no ferries. frequent more are there North Bay accessible snorkelling the most easily This is to A combined boat tour bay to Port Blair. and North BayRoss and Viper Islands leaves the Aquarium (per daily from the jetty behind Rs 250; person the bay. and explore to snorkel hours (Rs 8, 1½ hours). About 2km beyond the 2km beyond the About (Rs 8, 1½ hours).

(admis- (admis- 232999; % (

for Rs 150 per for Rs 150 per Ross Island Viper Island Govindamma & Co Port •• Around ISLANDS & NICOBAR ANDAMAN Andaman Blair & South is where all the action was in those is where is worthwhile to see re- the sobering

Ferries to Ross Island (Rs 16, 20 minutes) to Ross Island (Rs 16, 20 minutes) Ferries Many of the buildings still stand as evoca- of Many A good way to explore the island south of of the island south to explore A good way

Bicycles are good for getting around the good for getting Bicycles are ship that was wrecked nearby. ship that was wrecked gallows built by the British in 1867. Viper is a 19th-century British trading named after The afternoon boat trip to The afternoon brick jail and the the ochre-coloured mains of Viper Island Viper Island times when you buy your ticket, as times can times when you buy your ticket, by tides. be affected in Port Blair at 8.30am, 10.30am, 12.30pm current to Tuesday; check and 2pm Thursday museum displays and photos with historical Ross Island in its heyday. of depart from the jetty behind the Aquarium all of the buildings are labelled. There’s a small labelled. There’s are the buildings all of again damaged by the tsunami in 2004. by the tsunami again damaged slowly being consumed by ruined shells tive Landscaped cross the island and trees. paths headquarters to Port Blair. The island was The island was to Port Blair. headquarters day fondly called it the ‘Paris of the East’. of day fondly called it the ‘Paris and grand gardens However, the manicured destroyed by an earthquake ballrooms were the Japanese after later, in 1941. Six months their WWII, the British transferred entered heady colonial days and newspapers of the of heady colonial days and newspapers this eerie place was once the administrative this eerie place was once the administrative for the British. headquarters Ross Island Ross Island An essential half-day trip from Port Blair, can be hired from stalls in Aberdeen Bazaar from stalls in Aberdeen can be hired for Rs 40 per day. & AROUND PORT BLAIR SOUTH ANDAMAN town and the immediate Port Blair area. They Blair area. Port town and the immediate Hindi Medium School on Haddo Rd but call Rd but call on Haddo School Hindi Medium availability. ahead to check and helmets (of sorts) are supplied. Go to their supplied. Go sorts) are and helmets (of the workshop on 2nd DP St, opposite Yamaha day for a gearless scooter or Rs 200 per day for or Rs 200 per day for scooter day for a gearless Rs 1000 deposit is required a 125cc motorbike. Port Blair is by moped or motorbike. They can by moped or motorbike. Port Blair is through be hired Haddo Jetty it’s around Rs 35. it’s around Rs 35. Jetty Haddo costs around Rs 50. From Aberdeen Bazaar Rs 50. From Aberdeen costs around 25 and to Rs is about to Phoenix Bay Jetty some form of transport. A taxi A transport. autorick- or form of some Bazaar to Aberdeen from the airport shaw lonelyplanet.com [email protected]; Rd) off Haddo sion Rs 5) sion Rs 20) ANDAMAN & NICOBAR ISLANDS thrown up duringmonsoon –andcrystal- gets someseaweed clean white –though sand from thejetty,isa gorgeous stretch of squeaky northwestern sideof theislandabout 12km NagarBeach Radha Sights &Activities villagescoast between No2and5. of theaccommodationisstrungalongeast bazaar is2kmsouthatNo3Village; andmost dock atthejettyNo1Village; themain each village isreferred tobyanumber. Boats northern thirdof and theislandissettled, Port Blairandcovers 100sqkm.Onlythe 1950s, Havelock isabout 54kmnortheast of Southeast Asia. from thebeach resorts of mainlandIndiaor still very low-key andsimple –aworldaway oflock isthemostdeveloped theislands, it’s Have-scuba-diving opportunities.Although Blair, andoffers excellentsnorkelling and of islandlife. It’seasilyaccessiblefromPort paceand enjoytheslow(butnotcomatose) choice for travellers wantingtokickback accommodation, Havelock istheislandof beaches andplentyof cheap bamboo-hut With oneof the HAVELOCK ISLAND Andaman’s mostdazzling foreigner Rs50/500). Gandhi Marine NationalPark permit(Indian/ Wandoor, andare covered bytheMahatma by boatfromChiriyaTapu or3½hours from Warden ( p1109 ). Theislandsare twohours permission inadvancefromtheChiefWildlife organised bytravel agencies, toget youneed you’re ononeof thedaytripsoccasionally the beach. Cinque andpassengers transfer to viadinghy mans. Visitingboatsusuallyanchor off South are amongthemostbeautifulinAnda- islands are surroundedbycoralreefs, and the wildlife southof sanctuary Wandoor. The Cinque, connected are byasandbar, partof The uninhabited islandsof NorthandSouth Cinque Island Cinque Island. it’s possibletoarrange boatsfromhere to village fromPortBlair(Rs8,1½hours) and the area. There adaytothe are buses seven Tapu thathassomeof thebestsnorkelling in There’s abeach about2kmsouthof Chiriya 1118 Inhabited by Bengali settlers sincethe settlers Inhabited byBengali Only dayvisitsare allowedbut,unless NAA IOA SAD • Hvlc sad ANDAMAN &NICOBARISLANDS••HavelockIsland (alsocalledNo7), onthe ὄ kelling, isfurthernorthandreached bya fishing sible toreach –asklocally. after tideit’simpos- thetsunamiandathigh virtuallydisappearedrain. Thebeach itself the cross-islandroad),butishardgoingafter trailandswamp;it’swell-markedlogging (off 40-minute amuddyelephant walkthrough calm water. geous along thebeach tothenorthwestisgor- the beach’s shadyforest. Ten minutes’ walk short here. youcantakea sunset a Inpeakseason clear water backed bynative forest. Don’tmiss (Port Blair;54km) To PhoenixBay 4 1 3 Elephant 2 HAVELOCK ISLAND A highlight of HavelockA highlight is Beach Elephant

Beach To NorthPassage(20km); Radha Nagar Beach Karmatang Strait Island(25km); Bicycle &Moped Hire...... (see10) TRANSPORT Red Snapper...... (see 12) Cheap Eateries...... Cheap Eateries...... EATING Wild Orchid...... Sunrise BeachResort...... Pristine BeachResort...... Orient LegendResort...... Cabanas...... (see3) Island Vinnie'sTropicalBeach Island Camping...... Happy Resort...... Eco Villa...... Barefoot atHavelock...... SLEEPING mrl ek...... B3 Emerald Gecko...... Long Island(40km) 4 SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION ieIda...... B2 Dive India...... Barefoot Scuba...... Post Office...... , andthebestwaytodoeitherison elephant ride Bay ‘lagoon’ Village No 7 8 A 14 stretch of sheltered and sand , where there’s goodsnor-

(adult/child Rs20/10) Krishna Nagar No 6Village No 4Village Peel Island 13 Village No 2 14 13 12 11 10 ὄ ὄ 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 No 1Village lonelyplanet.com 2km 1mile 0 0 1 Jetty A3 B2 B3 B3 B2 B3 A3 B2 B2 A3 B2 B2 snorkelling snorkelling Village No 3 B Village 7 No 5 To NeilIsland 5 Kalapathar through through 3 2 10 (25km) 11 9 6 12 or ANDAMAN & NICOBAR ISLANDS ) Set Set 1119 282187; a

% ( 282344; alexpristine@ % ( 282472; www.wildorchidandaman % (

New in 2006, these comfortably Run by an affable couple, these cute Wild Orchid Pristine Beach Resort Island Vinnie’s Tropical Beach Cabanas places to eat on the island and certainly scores places to eat on the island and certainly scores seafood is usually avail- Fresh on ambience. caught guests!) by the owner or able (often homemade and the menu can include terrific pasta, Thai curries and Continental dishes, Book your table as well as Indian favourites. early in peak season. furnished pink canvas tents, raisedfurnished pink canvas tents, on indi- place in look out of wouldn’t vidual verandas, a desert surviving setting, and so far they’re for offered are Packages the monsoon climate. staying more who are and for visitors divers, than 10 days. .com; d cottages without/with AC Rs 2100/2500; back from a secluded this is a mel- beach, furnished low, friendly place with tastefully designed in traditional Andamanesecottages beds four-poster Modern bathrooms, style. public spaces with and roomy and verandas, comfortable seating add to the comfort factor. also a masseur in season, on-site There’s and a Red Snapper (mains here, The restaurant bar. good genuinely few Rs 100 to 250), is one of hotmail.com; huts Rs 100-150, cottages with privatehotmail.com; huts Rs 100-150, cottages bathroom Rs 250-400) most places. The this a cut above make alcohol bar stays for night owls (but quietly open late enough to allow other guests to sleep). It’s on beach. a nice bit of www.islandvinnie.com; cabanas without/with bathroom Rs 450/1200) huts, good restaurant and a licence to servehuts, good restaurant and scuba jungle is some- Island •• Havelock ISLANDS & NICOBAR ANDAMAN Barefoot Scuba – especially on the elephant training camp bird-watching are the two professional dive outfits dive the two professional are on the Andamans; ‘I don’t understand why when we agree a price for something – a room or a tour or motorbike hire – – room or a tour or motorbike a price for something – a hire why when we agree ‘I don’t understand or how to ask a conversation don’t know how to have They so aggressive. are ‘Some of them that it wasn’t eat almost all the meal and then complain stupid. They ‘I think they think we’re when my boat’s the beach and I can’t go out fishing sometimes, ‘Well my family can’t go to comments. Fair for keen walkers or birders, though be or birders, walkers for keen later they shout at me and want me to make a smaller price. Why do they break their word?’ Why do they break me and want me to make they shout at smaller price. a later anything to do with those ones, know how to shout. Now I don’t have for something, they only off.’ them a mile you can tell or to make them another one.’ it free and want us to give what they ordered sunbathing naked on the sand beside it. We don’t takeour are and men and women on-shore see us like and that, so why do they think it’s OK never They clothes off in front of strangers. that we don’t mind?’ THE GOOD, THE BAD & THE UGLY UGLY BAD & THE THE THE GOOD, is a mixed This years. the last few over travellers a magnet for budget has become Havelock considerably less delighted the income they bring, but by delighted who are blessing for islanders, we had repeatedly of conversations gist the Here’s of a noticeable minority. by the behaviour with locals: About 5km beyond Village No 5 is Kalap- 5km beyond Village About Havelock is also the premier spot for is also the premier Havelock Some resorts can organise guided can organise Some resorts geographical order beyond the jetty. geographical more upmarket places at No 5 Village or west places at No 5 Village upmarket more in The listings that follow are to No 7 Village. Heading south along the coast from the jetty Heading simple huts and a couple of a string of there’s boat along the coast. Sleeping & Eating road peters out into deep forest, and there are are and there out into deep forest, road peters spots accessible by some good snorkelling athar, where an athar, where Beyondtimes open to visitors. the Kalapathar the brilliant golden oriole. blue-black racket-tailed drongo trailing his racket-tailed blue-black contrast, and, by way of fabulous tail feathers trees, and the trees, look out for the – is rewarding; fringes forest warned that the forest floor turns to slippery warned that the forest is rain, and walking gluggy mud after and very is spectacu- hard work. The inside rainforest tall lar, giving new meaning to the notion of treks diving Dive India snorkelling sites. sites. snorkelling information). for more p1110 (seehere through a mangrove swamp and to some great swamp and to some great through a mangrove 1000, depending on the number of people and number of 1000, depending on the full-day organises the distance. Wild Orchid you trips (per couple from Rs 2000) that take a boat trip organised by one of the accom- by one of a boat trip organised cost from Rs 300 to modation places. Trips Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book ANDAMAN & NICOBAR ISLANDS Neil Island, and also with Rangat inMid- Neil Island, andalsowith Rangat 9amand11am. between terminal.passenger Theticket isopen office book atleastaday inadvanceatthePortBlair oratthejetty,and you’renewssheet best to Rs 150;2½hours). Checktimesin thelocal daily, andoften twiceormore (touristferry Jettyfrom Phoenix inPortBlairatleastonce ways direct toandfromHavelock sailings Ferry timesare changeable, butthere are al- Getting There&Away leading toNo7beach. fish dishesnearthejetty,andonroad LegendResort Orient BeachResort Sunrise Eco Villa Happy Resort the timeof research: open-sided restaurants. Popularhotspotsat Rs 150to300,andallhave theirownsimple, andfansforaround bamboo hutswithlights the palmtrees, withaccommodationinsturdy quality of accommodation. still have somewaytogomatch the service andfood das, andattention toprivacy.Staff four-poster beds,stylish bathroomsandveran- timber andbamboo-thatched cottages with Accommodation isin18beautifullydesigned resort, consciousof of itsuse naturalresources. –thisistheAndamansmostluxurious Beach Nagar forest groundsjustbackfromRadha the locationalone–ensconcedinbird-filled www.barefootindia.com; cottagesRs3600-5300; A&NTourisminPortBlair.through nets. It’sopenfromNovember toMarch; book solid floors, campbedsandmosquito raised Alltents have NagarBeach. the roadtoRadha viable locationamongthepalmsatendof hastentedCamping accommodationinanen- chid, andabar. It’slow-key and peaceful. folkasWildOr-menu designedbythesame huts too,andarestaurant withagoodcreative ashore fromMyanmar. There are somebudget structed from bambooraftsthathave drifted with open-roofed bathrooms,lovingly con- There are double-storey fourcomfortable huts a step upinqualityfromotherhutresorts. small hutsRs200-300,large1000-1500) 1120 There thalisand are cheap eateries serving atHavelock Barefoot Emerald Gecko Several ferries linkHavelock aweek Several with Numerous smallplaceshave upunder set Island Camping NAA IOA SAD • Ni sad ANDAMAN &NICOBARISLANDS••NeilIsland ( % 282072; VillageNo2) ( %

( %

282061; VillageNo2) (furnished tentsRs150-500) 282170; www.emerald-gecko.com; 282170; www.emerald-gecko.com; (Village No3) (Village ( % (

% 282389; VillageNo3) 282151, in Port Blair237656; 282151, inPort Thisis a Island ) For the road distance between themis8km. between the roaddistance Neil Island’sbeaches are numbered 1to5,and Sights &Activities farms, andthenlieonthebeach somemore. walk, snorkel, paddyfieldsand cyclethrough This istheplacetolieonbeach, jungle- involvedsettlers infishingandagriculture. Havelock Island,Neilispopulated byBengali to get off theferry. Much quieter thannearby 40km northeastof PortBlair,isagoodplace beaches NeilIsland, withoutbeingacastaway, ing forpeace,isolationandnear-deserted If you NEIL ISLAND it’s Rs200. Village isRs30,toNo550and7 at yourhotel. withthesigninVillagethe stall No3,orask Resort,from the shopoutsidePristineBeach 150) andbicycles(perdayRs40to50)from can rent mopedsormotorbikes (perdayRs onHavelock.own transportisuseful You hourlycircuit,buthavingon aroughly your A localbusconnectsthejettyandvillages Getting Around to Diglipur. dle Andaman,where continuenorth buses snorkelling or fishing spotswillcost perday on it.Hire of afishing boattogooffshore around town(per day Rs100),butdon’tbank aheadtothebeach.so straight cycle totheendof theroad,andwalk50mor ride outhere (about5kmfromthevillage); just stretch withabitof bike swell.It’sapleasant to theeastern sideof theisland,isanenclosed to sea. leads toa small hillbehind GyanGardenRestaurant short walkwilltake youtoit. Atrackupthe rock formationinthewater; acyclerideand north sideof theisland,has anaturalbridge activities aroundtidetimes. tidethebeachhigh isunderwater soplanyour over thecoralintowater; conversely, at andtheisland’sbest No 1Beach Most of theaccommodationplacesare to close minute walk 3kmwestof thejetty andvillage. Beach of getting thisbeach. Atlowtideit’sdifficult around thecoralreef atthefar(western) end An autorickshaw fromthejettytoNo3 You shouldbeable tohire snorkelling gear istheprettiest andmostaccessible,a40- really No 5Beach viewpoint want toslowdown,andare look- , reached viathevillage road acrosstheislandandout No 2Beach lonelyplanet.com snorkelling , onthe No 1 is ANDAMAN & NICOBAR ISLANDS 1121

(per tour 273454; thanzin_the % a simple lodge, res- a simple lodge,

(

, slow going, but consider slow going, but consider boat-based day tours is about 15 minutes north is about 15 minutes ) very 279022; four-bed dm Rs 600, d without/ Sea’n’Sand a that, depending on the season %

( You can get to Rangat, in Middle Anda- to You can get An autorickshaw will take you to No 1 to No 1 you will take An autorickshaw taurant and bar overlooking the water 1km the water taurant and bar overlooking and Run by Titus the town centre. south of Elizabeth, along with their young family, it’s looking and will appeal to travellers low-key for an experience away from the crowds. Titus of a range organises from Rs 500-2500) man, several times a week from Port Blair 80/25, nine (Rs Island by ferry or Havelock or daily by bus (Rs 70, eight hours). hours) Hawksbill Nest with AC Rs 450/850; Rangat, bus will drop of and any northbound be made at A&N bookings must you there; turtles do Hawksbill Tourism in Port Blair. Bay nearby Cuthbert of nest on the beaches and February. between November Mayabunder & Around gem an unexpected there’s Mayabunder In in the shape of r Rs 200-500) [email protected]; road bridges. It’s road bridges. the road – say of at least the northern part between the jetties at Rangat Diglipur and in both to taking the ferry – as an alternative Relentlessly thick jungle opening directions. only oc- with waterways to mangrove-fringed this a spec- make clearings casional cultivated especially journey, tacularly and green lush that tribal people still live with the knowledge The road in the deep forest. traditional lives reserves on the west coasts runs beside Jarawa Middle Andaman, but as most South and of on busy getting people are traditional Jarawa unlikely you’re forest in the with their lives beside the they’re them unless to encounter p1122). Motorcycles text, road (see the boxed 40km forbidden beyond the checkpoint, are Port Blair. outside of Getting There & Away Away There & Getting from morning each a round trip makes A ferry Blair (Rs 36, two in Port Phoenix Bay Jetty a week Twice the Rangathours). calls ferry is useful which if you Havelock, at Neil after both islands. want to visit Beach Rs 50. from the jetty for MIDDLE & NORTH ANDAMAN Rd runs north from The Andaman Trunk An- Island and Middle Port Blair to Bharatang roll-off by small roll-on daman – both linked by – then onto North Andaman linked ferries ) a Green 282620, 282620, % (

and Middle •• ISLANDS NICOBAR & ANDAMAN North & Andaman Saha 282583; huts Rs 50, cottages 282510; huts Rs 100, cottages % (

282630; dm Rs 150, d Rs 800; % (

are two informal and relaxed two informal and relaxed are 282528; huts Rs 50, cottages Rs 350- 282528; huts Rs 50, cottages Rs % Pearl Park is set be- quietly Park Pearl ( % (

Gyan Garden Restaurant , Neil Island’s unofficial Mr Fixit, unofficial Mr Fixit, , Neil Island’s Further west, this is a similar set up

The first place you come to, about 500m to, about place you come The first There are plans afoot for accommodation are There Providing somewhat erratic service somewhat Providing out of Hawa Bill Nest Tango Beach ResortTango

Pearl Park Resort Park Pearl Cocon Huts Contact the charming Contactthe charming become of those. become of and food at No 5 Beach; with the folk at check Island to see what’s on Havelock Wild Orchid outdoor eateries and hang-outs betweenoutdoor eateries the and No 1 Beach.village running, Heaven Restaurant as atmospheric as the other options; book as atmospheric as the other options; book through A&N Tourism in Port Blair. up and season, but popular when/if they’re run hotel comes out ahead in the comfort and run hotel research but at the time of cleanliness stakes, walk minutes’ it was true on Neil Island. Five if not it’s convenient beach, from the village It’s not often that a charmless government- that a charmless It’s not often thatch huts, there are two dilapidated but once- two dilapidated are huts, there thatch on stilts, cottages Nicobarese-style charming rooms. hotel-style concrete and a couple of of palms and flowering plants a short stroll palms and flowering plants a short of No 1 Beach. well as end of from the western As & rooms Rs 400-1000) the road, in a beautiful garden yond the end of part of No 1 Beach.part of minus the drinkers, with a couple of concrete concrete with a couple of minus the drinkers, as well as huts. It’s closercottages to the better Rs 500) location but its bar has become a seriouslocation but its bar has become local pretty sometimes get drinking hole, and it can uncomfortable for guests. 400) has a good waterfront market, from the village marginally more comfortable cottages; all have comfortable all have cottages; more marginally in but are locations and great potential great food. decay. All provide of various stages guesthouse. West of the jetty along No 1 Beach the jetty along West of guesthouse. basic huts and with small ‘resorts’ three are of basic restaurants and the A&N Tourism and the basic restaurants of Sleeping & Eating Sleeping & Eating from the metres hundred a few In the village, a couple shops, a few a market, jetty, there’s for help with accommodation, tours and and accommodation, tours for help with transport. 9474212840) Bicycles are available for hire at several shops for hire available Bicycles are (per day Rs 40). in the village between and 900; several Rs 800 fit people can boat. the of on the size depending on board, Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book ANDAMAN & NICOBAR ISLANDS near the jetty foraroundRs 500. boat totake you forthedayfrom thevillage posite theAerial Jetty. Bay Youcancharter a the onlyplacesonNorthAndamanwhere for- chain. andnearby Thetownitself Kalipur are and asfarnorthyoucanget intheisland from the get apermit(Indian/foreigner Rs50/500) youmust is designated asamarinesanctuary, and snorkel intheshallowwaters. Sincethis and here forest, youcanwalkthrough orswim bar,areby anarrowsand accessible byboat The twinislandsof SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES southeast of thejetty. Block intown.Kalipur isonthecoast8km tickets canbebooked attheAdministration markettaurants, andacoupleof lodges. Ferry Diglipur village basicres- andthebusstand, JettyBay fromwhere it’s11kmsouthwestto eigners Ferries canstay. arrive attheAerial abunder, is Diglipur, Diglipur &Around hours) ferries. andbyonce-ortwice-weekly fromPortBlair(Rs95,10by dailybuses Mayabunder, islinked 71kmnorthof Rangat, THERE&AWAYGETTING wilderness experienceon kelling off prizedediblenests;easysnor-their highly One Caves and howhefeels aboutyou,mayinclude 1122 and toleave theJarawainpeace. After thistripIhopetheysucceed. in theislands’government andcivilsocietyare lobbyingtoclosetheroadgeneralpublic no ‘feeding’ –andtheconsiderablepolicepresence inthereserve clearlyisn’teffective. Many convoy,everyduring every day. transport them withwater. isreprimanded No-one orarrested orfined.Later Iamtoldthatthishappens thisisn’timmediatelybeing ondisplaylike showering apparent aswegopastinablur,further crudegestures.and make andshivering Howthegroupsofnaked tribaladolescentsfeel about noises, monkey phone camerasoutofthewindows,flingsweetsandbananas,laughmake guard –there toprotect themfromus,Irealise, asmybusgoespast.People thrustmobile through theJarawatribalreserve. crawlsslowlyalongthenarrowAndamanTrunkRd,tour vehicles, goodstrucksandpoliceescort It’s mid-afternoon duringatorrential monsoondownpour,andourconvoyofpublicbuses,local CLOSE ENCOUNTERSOFTHEWORSTKIND Virginia Jealous The considerablelegalrestrictions withtribalpeople–nogifts, aboutcontact nophotography, There istheoccasionalglimpseof Jarawa peoplestandingbesidetheroadwithapolice NAA IOA SAD • Mdl ot naa Andaman &North ANDAMAN &NICOBARISLANDS••Middle

where Forest Office Forest three hours byroadnorthof May-

the main town of North Andaman the maintownof NorthAndaman Avis Island hawabills Smith

( ; oracoast-and-forest- h 6am-2pm, closedSun) and Interview (swiftlets)make Ross , connected . op- Forty Forty 400/800; for hire (perdayRs100). is good;limited snorkelling gear isavailable just aroundthecoastat Radha Nagar Beach, land off thebeach nearPristineResort,and Resort. Beach make sure youdon’tget lost–askatPristine foreigner Rs25/250)andalocalguidewill is required fromthe Forest (Indian/ Office Kalipur inabout sixhours. Again apermit subtropical forest tothetopandbackfrom in theAndamans.Youcantrek through if one’savailable. you’llbe able togetthough a room on-site A&NTourisminPortBlair,ahead through and having aforlorn feel. It’sbestto book despite beingalittlerun-down andmusty ism hotel provides of somelevel comfort, views fromthebalconies,thisA&N Tour- busy inpeakseason. restaurant andfriendly owners. Itgets very simplebamboohutsonstilts,a with several fields andthebeach, Pristineisapretty spot paddy Huddled amongthepalmsbetween an autorickshawcostsabout Rs100. Jetty.Bay runalongthisroute (Rs8); Buses other atKalipur, 8km southeastof theAerial There are opposite each twoplacestostay SLEEPING &EATING and March. Decemberthe Diglipurcoastlinebetween Turtle Resort Turtle and Leatherback green turtlesnestalong Pristine Beach Resort BeachResort Pristine At 732m, a ) Set onasmallhillwithrural Set Saddle Peak Snorkelling

( % 272553; rwithout/withACRs ( % is the highest point isthehighest behindthesmallis- 201837; hutsRs200-500) lonelyplanet.com ANDAMAN & NICOBAR ISLANDS 1123 Whisper in Port Blair red oil palm and % had been ac- © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © (ANIFPDCL;

White Surf , 11km north of Hut Bay, Hut of , 11km north offer a forest experience. a forest offer , a further 3km north, good for , a further 3km about 11km from Hut Bay, but this waterfalls

Butler Bay Netaji Nagar Beach Ferries land at the Hut Bay Jetty on the on the land at the Hut Bay Jetty Ferries Andaman & Nicobar Islands ForestAndaman & Nicobar Islands Plantation tively developing a 1500-hectare developing a 1500-hectare tively is uncertain. also managed ANIFPDCL future the two guesthousesthe island, but these on writing. not functioning at the time of were the acces- most of east coast and from there to the north. and attractions are sible beaches times Boats sail from Port Blair about three a week. Blair. Tourism and other development and other Tourism plans Blair. work was relief been hampered; severely have we and research, at the time of still underway The big opportunity to visit. the didn’t get such pristine beaches were here attractions as and but not for snorkelling; surfing and swimming by hit worst this was the area unfortunately the tsunami. Inland, Wave Development Corporation 232866; [email protected]) plantation during the tsunami and its was also damaged •• Little Andaman NICOBAR ISLANDS & ANDAMAN

The populated east coast of Little Andaman Little Andaman east coast of The populated The island is home to members of the Onge the Onge of The island is home to members

the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’ everyone it. See you know, or resell the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to restricted. we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes In return, © Lonely Planet Publications. To makeis not digitally it easier for you to use, access to this chapter © Lonely Planet Publications. the population temporarily evacuated to Port the population temporarily was badly affected by the tsunami and most of by the tsunami and most of was badly affected through loss of environment and hunting and hunting environment through loss of The tribal so remain. grounds – only 100 or reserve bounds to visitors. is out of 1977 when the government began developing 1977 when the government for- logging and of the island for agriculture Settlement the and opening up of est timber. island has had a serious impact on the Onge tribe, who were relocated to a tribal reserve in relocated tribe, who were of the more remote inhabited islands in the inhabited remote the more of Port Blair. group at 120km south of LITTLE ANDAMAN LITTLE ANDAMAN is still an outpost and one Little Andaman is served buses by daily (Rs to/from Port Blair as well as buses120, 12 hours), to Mayabun- and Rangat hours) der (Rs 30, 2½ (Rs 50, 4½ Port from daily ferries also are There hours). from overnight returning Blair to Diglipur, Diglipur (seat/berthhours). Rs 81/150, 10 GETTING THERE & AWAY GETTING & AWAY THERE Mayabunder, of 80km north about Diglipur, Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book