artigo convidado

MANGAN FX; MENDONÇA RU; NUNES SV; FINGER FL; BARROS ZJ; GALVÃO H; ALMEIDA GC; SILVA RAN; ANDERSON MD. 2008. Production and marketing of for the ethnic markets in the United States. Horticultura Brasileira 26: 006-014. Production and marketing of vegetables for the ethnic markets in the United States Francis X Mangan1; Raquel U de Mendonça1; Maria Moreira1; Samanta del Vecchio Nunes1; Fernando L Finger2; Zoraia de Jesus Barros2; Hilton Galvão2; Gustavo C Almeida3; Rachel AN Silva1; Molly D Anderson4 1University of Massachusetts, Dept. Plant, Soil & Insect Sciences, Amherst, MA 01003 EUA; 2UFV, Depto.Fitotecnia, 36571-000 Viçosa- MG; 3CeasaMinas, Unid. Grande , Seção Agroqualidade, BR 040, km 688, 32145-900 -MG; 4Food Systems Integrity, 22 Lawrence Lane, Arlington, MA 02474, USA; [email protected]

ABSTRACT RESUMO Due to the growing number of immigrants in the United States, Produção e marketing de hortaliças para os mercados étnicos made up principally of Latinos, Asians and Africans, there has been nos Estados Unidos a growing demand for products that are popular in their countries of Devido ao crescente número de imigrantes nos EUA, composto origin. In order to meet this demand, there has been a tremendous por latinos, brasileiros, asiáticos e africanos, observou-se um au- increase in imports of agricultural products to the United States. mento no interesse dessas comunidades em obter produtos que são is a good example. Imports of cassava to the US have comuns em seus países de origem. Para atender essa demanda hou- increased 370% in the last six years. The University of Massachusetts ve um aumento nas importações de produtos étnicos e na produção began to evaluate crops popular among Puerto Ricans and interna dessas hortaliças. A mandioca é um bom exemplo do inte- Dominicans in 1996, and in 2002 began to evaluate crops popular resse em cultivos étnicos. As importações desse produto cresceram among the large and growing Brazilian population in the state and 370% nos últimos seis anos. A Universidade de Massachusetts ini- region. This paper summarizes results of research on crops popular ciou suas pesquisas em 1996 com culturas populares entre os imi- with Brazilian immigrants in the US, in addition to the evaluation of grantes de Porto Rico e Republica Dominicana e, em 2002, com os the marketing chain and impact of media outlets to promote and sell vegetais presentes na culinária brasileira. Este trabalho sumariza as these crops. Surveys of Brazilian customers in target markets informações disponíveis atualmente em relação às necessidades dos demonstrated that the majority of Brazilian immigrants in the imigrantes brasileiros em termos de hortaliças de cunho cultural, Northeastern United States are from the state of . Due identifica as cadeias fornecedoras existentes, explica os impactos da to this fact, the crops chosen for research in Massachusetts were mídia sobre o mercado étnico e descreve as práticas de aquisição de ones that were popular in this state: jiló, maxixe, taioba, abóbora produtos específicos demandados pelos consumidores brasileiros. and . In order to successfully introduce these crops into the Pesquisas mostraram que a maioria dos imigrantes brasileiros eram marketplace it is critical to devote resources to promotion and provenientes do estado de Minas Gerais e devido a esse fator, as marketing. In spite of their popularity among , these culturas escolhidas foram jiló, maxixe, taioba, abóbora e quiabo. vegetable crops are not normally found in the market so it is necessary Para a introdução dos produtos no mercado é necessário focar gran- to let the community know that they are available and in what de parte das atenções no marketing e divulgação. Apesar de existir locations. The most effective media outlet evaluated in this work to uma demanda, esses vegetais não são normalmente encontrados nos reach Brazilians was the television station Rede Globo International, mercados, sendo necessário informar onde e quais produtos estão available in the United States; however, other avenues evaluated to disponíveis. O melhor meio de divulgação entre os brasileiros é atra- promote this project to Brazilians, such as Brazilian newspapers and vés da emissora de TV Rede Globo, porém outros meios como jor- radio programs, were also effective and less expensive. The nais e rádios em língua portuguesa são eficientes e mais acessíveis. opportunity to export agricultural products to the United States is a A exportação de produtos étnicos para os EUA é um mercado cres- growing opportunity for farmers in . In order to gain access to cente, porém para entrar nesse mercado é necessário compreender a this market it is important to understand the distribution system used cadeia de distribuição de vegetais frescos nos EUA. Além disso, os for fresh produce in the United States. donos das grandes cadeias de supermercados desconhecem os vege- tais étnicos, sendo muitas vezes uma barreira para a comercialização dos mesmos.

Keywords: Taioba, jiló, maxixe, abóbora. Palavras-chave: Taioba, jiló, maxixe, abóbora.

(Recebido em 14 de dezembro de 2007; aceito em 29 de janeiro de 2008)

he demographics of the United the United States, the largest number in to 49 million by 2015. The Asian TStates are changing rapidly as a single year of the U.S. history. population was estimated at 12 million immigrant populations increase at rates According to the U.S. Census Bureau, in 2003 and expected to grow to over not seen since the early 20th century. In the U.S. Hispanic population was about 17 million by 2015 (Bushnell, 2004). 2005, 7.9 million immigrants came to 38 million in 2003 and expected to jump The Brazilian government estimates that

6 Hortic. bras., v. 26, n. 1, jan.-mar. 2008 Production and marketing of vegetables for the ethnic markets in the United States there are 1.5 million Brazilians living in the U.S., both legal and illegal (The New York Times, 2005). The major concentrations of Brazilians in the U.S. are in Massachusetts, New York, New Jersey, Florida, and California. Massachusetts in particular has experienced a strong surge of immigrants in recent years. According to 2005 Census estimates, Hispanics are the largest ethnic minority in the state with 8% of the population, outnumbering African-Americans (7%). Asians represent 5% of the total population and their numbers are increasing (Abraham, 2006). Forty percent of the population in southeastern Figure 1. Total imports of cassava to the United States (total das importações de mandioca Massachusetts is of Portuguese and para os Estados Unidos). Amherst, University of Massachusetts, 2007. Source: Data adopted from Yucca (cassava) reports ( and Vegetable Market News, 2007). Cape Verdean backgrounds. About 150,000 Brazilians live in greater Boston and Cape Cod, making domestically produced goods. To date, depending on the region of the country. Portuguese the second most spoken most of the demand has been met with The second type of cassava is referred language in Massachusetts, according to imports. The history of cassava to as bitter or mandioca brava (wild the U.S. Census (Rapoza, 2000). The production and imports to the U.S. is cassava) and is used in industry Brazilian Consulate in Boston and the illustrative. (Embrapa, 2007). In general, varieties Brazilian Immigrant Center in Allston, Cassava in U.S. - Cassava (Manihot with yellow roots are preferred for MA, estimate there are at least 250,000 esculenta) is one of the most important human consumption and those with Brazilians living in the state (The Boston root crops in the world and is very well white roots are used for processing flour Globe, 2006). adapted to extreme conditions of (Fukuda, 2005). The dramatic increase in immigrant weather and soil types found in the For human consumption, the roots populations has had a significant effect tropics and sub-tropics. The root is an of cassava varieties should have less in the U.S. marketplace, especially for important source of carbohydrates to than 100 ppm of hydrocyanic acid fresh fruit and vegetable markets. In over 600 million people in countries (HCN). The quantity of HCN can vary 2002, Hispanics, Asian-Americans, and where it is produced. In addition, the greatly among varieties, and also with African-Americans represented 31% of plant is rich in protein, vitamin A and the physiological stage of the crop and the U.S. population, yet they accounted C, and others nutrients (Fukuda, 2005). the environmental conditions where for 37% of all sales in supermarkets In Brazil, the center of origin for this they are grown. Characteristics used by (Grow with America, 2002). In 2006, crop and the largest producer in the consumers when buying cassava Hispanics had a buying power of $798 world, the leaves are also used in several varieties are the absence of fibers when billion. This figure is expected to reach dishes such as maniçoba, in which cooked, the length of time to cook, post- $1.2 trillion by 2011, accounting for minced cassava leaves are cooked with harvest disease resistance, and the size and 9.5% of all U.S. buying power meats. Also, processed cassava leaves ease of peeling the roots (Embrapa, 2007). (Humphreys, 2006). In Hispanic grocery have been used in programs to fight Many cassava varieties are adapted for stores, 22% of total sales (over twice the hunger and undernourishment in Brazil. specific environments and good yields national average) come from the According to Instituto Brasileiro de achieved in one region will not be produce department (Produce Geografia de Estatística (IBGE, 2007), reproduced in others. Most pests of cassava Marketing Association, 2006). The Brazil produced almost 28 million are associated with specific environments, immigrant groups represented in metric tons of cassava in 2005; almost which is the main reason for the large Massachusetts desire to purchase what two million hectares were harvested in number of cassava varieties used by the is part of their culture and readily this same year, with an average yield of growers in Brazil (Embrapa, 2007). available in their countries of origin. -1 almost 15 t ha . In 2000, the first year the USDA Historically, these items have rarely In Brazil there are two categories of began tracking the imports of cassava, been available in U.S. markets, if they cassava. One is called sweet or mesa over 10,000 metric tons were imported were available at all. But recently, (table) cassava, which is used for human into the U.S. This amount has risen to vendors have been providing them with and animal consumption. In Portuguese, almost 45,000 metric tons in 2006 greater frequency by importing produce varieties in this category are called (Figure 1). Cassava is imported almost from outside the U.S. or buying aipim, macaxeira or mandioca, exclusively from countries in Latin

Hortic. bras., v. 26, n. 1, jan.-mar. 2008 7 FX Mangan et al.

date on cultural requirements of crops important to Brazilian immigrants in Massachusetts, categorizes current supply chains, explains the impacts of ethnic media, and describes purchasing practices for target crops in demand by Brazilian consumers. Brazilian crops investigated for Massachusetts production - Beginning in 2002, research and extension activities at UMass have focused on crops popular with the Brazilian population in the state and region. Surveys implemented by UMass researchers with Brazilian consumers in markets in Massachusetts and New Jersey have shown the dominance of Figure 2. States of origin of Brazilian immigrants living in Massachusetts and New Jersey consumers from states in Southeastern (estados de origem de imigrantes brasileiros que vivem em Massachusetts e New Jersey). Brazil, Minas Gerais in particular Amherst, University of Massachusetts, 2007. (Figure 2). For this reason the focus of Survey conducted with 105 Brazilians at two stores in Massachusetts (Fall River and New investigation has been vegetable crops Bedford) and two stores in New Jersey (Newark and Kearny) in 2006. (Pesquisa realizada popular in these states, such as scarlet com brasileiros em dois supermercados em Massachusetts (Fall River e New Bedford) e dois em New Jersey (Newark e Kearny) em 2006). eggplant (Solanum gilo Raddi; in Portuguese, jiló), West Indian gherkin (Cucumis anguria; in Portuguese, America. The increase in cassava in the state and region create a large maxixe), squash and pumpkin imports is not only due to increased marketing opportunity for domestic (Cucurbita spp.), tannia (Xanthosoma market demand, but also decreased growers. Researchers from the sagittifolium; in Portuguese, taioba, and domestic production. Cassava University of Massachusetts (UMass) okra (Albemoschus esculentus (L.) production was in excess of 400 hectares have been investigating cultural Moench; in Portuguese, quiabo). in Southern Florida in the early 1980’s, requirements and market conditions for The scarlet eggplant is an annual but production decreased dramatically vegetable crops used by the growing tropical vegetable that is very sensitive because of quality issues and the lower immigrant population in the state and to cool temperatures and can be planted cost of production in Latin American region. Research began in 1996 with year-round in regions with very mild countries. In 2006, less than 15 hectares crops popular among Puerto Ricans and winters. This bush-like plant produces of cassava were estimated to be in Dominicans, and has expanded clusters of 2 to 4 . Scarlet eggplant production in Florida (Lamberts, 2007; subsequently into vegetable crops cultivars used in Brazil range from personal communication). popular among other Latino groups, slightly to extremely bitter and have The research on vegetables to ethnic Asians, and Brazilians. Due to this yields as high as 40 metric t ha-1. research there are currently commercial markets at the University of Varieties can produce fruit that are round farmers in Massachusetts growing Massachusetts - Most of the vegetable (cultivar Verde Redondo), oblong vegetable crops desired by these crops popular in the countries of origin (cultivar Morro Grande) or elongated growing immigrant groups. Examples of recent immigrants to Massachusetts (cultivar Comprido Cachoeira). The are calabaza (Cucurbita moschata), ají can be grown in the Northeastern U.S. scarlet eggplant is harvested and sold More than 70% of the almost 9,000 dulce (Capsicum chinense), and water when it is immature (green), with hectares of vegetables grown in spinach (Ipomoea aquatica) (Rulevich weights raging from 20 to 50 g fruit-1 Massachusetts are crops that have their et al., 2003; Casey et al., 2004; Mangan (PESAGRO/RJ, 2001, cited by Torres center of origin in tropical and sub- & Bunnell, 2004). et al., 2003). Filgueira (2000) cites that tropical climates, such as sweet corn (Zea In order to meet the regional demand mays), pumpkins and squash (Cucurbita for crops by immigrant populations, it the yields of the cultivars Tinguá, spp.), peppers (Capsicum spp.), and is also necessary to understand existing Comprida Grande Rio and Morro tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum) supply chains and their requirements, Grande can vary greatly, from 30 to 70 -1 (USDA National Agricultural Statistics and consumer behavior. In addition to t ha . According to Instituto Brasileiro Service, 2002). There are very few research in Massachusetts, comparison de Geografia e Estatística (IBGE, 2007), vegetable crop species that cannot be consumer surveys were conducted in the largest production of scarlet eggplant grown in the Northeastern U.S. New Jersey, another state with a high are in the states of Minas Gerais, Rio de The demographic changes in influx of immigrants. This paper Janeiro, , Espirito Santo, Massachusetts and growing conditions summarizes information available to , and Goiás, representing 85% of

8 Hortic. bras., v. 26, n. 1, jan.-mar. 2008 Production and marketing of vegetables for the ethnic markets in the United States the national production of 58,300 t in flowering, when the fruit is between 10 of Minas Gerais, Bahia, and Rio de 1996. Due to the large volume of and 14 cm in length. At this stage, the Janeiro, among others. There is a intercellular gases, the scarlet eggplant tip of the fruit is easily snapped with growing interest in this crop due to its is very resistant to mechanical injury fingers, which is a sign of freshness. nutritional qualities, which are superior during harvesting and packing. The When the fruit reaches maturity, they to spinach, and its unique flavor (Pinto, scarlet eggplant should be stored become very fibrous, hard and dry, and 1999). There are several varieties being between 10 and 13°C with relative the color turns slightly yellow commercially grown in Brazil, among humidity greater than 95%. The scarlet (Kurozawa, 2007). The most important them is Common taioba (dark green eggplant is very sensitive to water loss, cultivars grown in Brazil are Santa Cruz leaves with green petiole), Purple taioba which can be reduced when stored in 47, Amarelinho, II, (dark green leaves with purple petiole), perforated plastic bags or when fruits are Esmeralda, Chifre-de-veado, Colhe- and the BGH/UFV 5932 (light green waxed (Calbo, 2007). bem, and Roxo (Kurozawa, 2007). Best leaves and green petiole). The yield of The scarlet eggplant is used several yields are achieved with warm leaves ranges from 10 to 25 t ha-1 during ways in Brazilian , including as temperatures, well-drained soils with a harvest period which can last for up to an accompaniment in main dishes, in high levels of organic matter, and 9 months depending on the region in soups and fried. In Southeastern Brazil, adequate fertility. Brazil where it is grown. it is common in bars and restaurants to Okra is grown throughout Brazil, Categories of businesses that sell use the scarlet eggplant as a way to take including in home gardens. According fresh produce to Brazilians in away the taste of strong alcoholic to the Agricultural Census of Instituto Massachusetts - Massachusetts has beverages (tira-gosto). This is Brasileiro de Geografia e Estatística more than 1,000 Brazilian-owned considered a good alternative to other (IBGE, 2007), in 1996 the leading states businesses. These include small dishes that traditionally are used in bars, of production were Minas Gerais, São markets, restaurants, butcher shops, such as rind (in Portuguese, Paulo, , , Espirito clothing stores, bakeries, and travel torresmo), sausages and sardines, all of Santo, Bahia, and Goiás, representing agencies, among others (Costa, 2007; which are normally fried in oil. In rural 85% of the national production of personal communication). It is estimated areas of Brazil, where it is also known 87,400 t. Yields in Brazil range from 20 that there are approximately 300 as jinjilo, the scarlet eggplant is also to 40 t ha-1. Yields vary due to factors Brazilian stores that carry at least some used in a home remedy as an ingredient such as cultivar selection, soil type, fresh produce in Massachusetts (Farias, in a preparation of tonics for influenza, climate, soil fertility, availability of 2007; personal communication). In colds, and fevers (Kurozawa, 2007). water, and pest management practices. addition, there are non-Brazilian owned Okra is a traditional vegetable in the Maxixe (West Indian gherkin) businesses (i.e. wholesale distributors, Malvaceae family cultivated in Africa, belongs to the cucurbit family and was traditional supermarket chains, and India, Asia, The United States, Turkey, brought to Brazil from Africa during the farmers’ markets) that carry Brazilian Brazil, among many other countries slave trade. It is most popular in the products and locally-grown Brazilian (Duzyaman, 1997). In Brazil, okra is an Northeastern states of Brazil where it is produce. Figure 3 shows these businesses important ingredient in many traditional consumed boiled, fried, stewed or used in the supply chain and their connections regional dishes, including the use as a fresh in salads. Its harvest extends up to as well as how Brazilian consumers are sacred in religious festivals such 60 days with yields varying from 4 to getting fresh produce. It is estimated that as (okra cooked with dried 16 t ha-1. Modolo (2003) estimated the most important source of fresh fruits ), the principal food offered to yields of almost 52 t ha-1 when planted and vegetables for Brazilians in saints in the state of Bahia. Okra is also in beds covered with polyethylene Massachusetts are traditional very important in the traditional cuisine plastic with trickle irrigation. In addition supermarket chains. However, the in the state of Minas Gerais, where it is to C. anguria (maxixe comum) another overwhelming majority of fresh fruits used with chicken (frango com quiabo) species, C. longipes, is also used by and vegetables that are consumed by and beef (refogado de carne com commercial farmers. A hybrid cultivar Brazilians in the state of Massachusetts quiabo). It is prepared in many different has been developed by crossing C. are being produced outside the State. A ways, including steamed, fried, boiled longipes and cultivars of C. anguria central player in the distribution of fresh and grilled; okra is also thought to have (Koch & Costa, 1991). The fruits of fruits and vegetables to all markets is the medicinal qualities in the treatment of maxixe, which are about the size and Terminal Wholesale Market in Chelsea, digestive system diseases (Programa, shape of a chicken egg, can have either MA. Except for farmers’ markets, the 2007). The fruits of okra grown in Brazil supple spines or smooth skin and are vendors based in the terminal market are elongated and cylindrical in shape, pale green in color. supply fresh produce to all of the dark-green to light-green in color with Tannia (taioba) is a perennial leafy businesses categories. a point at the tip that is sometimes vegetable crop that belongs to the family Category 1: Farmers’ markets - slightly curved. Fruits for human Araceae and originated from the There were over 120 farmers’ markets consumption are harvested immature, Tropical Americas (Rubatzky, 1997). It in Massachusetts in 2006. Annual sales and should be picked 4 to 10 days after is traditionally consumed in the states at these farmers’ markets are estimated

Hortic. bras., v. 26, n. 1, jan.-mar. 2008 9 FX Mangan et al. to be over USD $20,000,000 annually onions, hard squashes, cassava). Some located, the amount of Brazilian (Cole, 2007). In Massachusetts, all stores have more advanced cooling products carried by these stores has agricultural products sold at farmers’ facilities and will carry a range of increased dramatically. The percentage markets have to be produced in the state. produce with shorter post-harvest lives of Brazilian clientele at the 17 stores Given the large number of Brazilians in (e.g. collards, scarlet eggplant). As with varies widely, ranging from as low as the State, there are opportunities for Brazilian restaurants, stores in this 5% to as high as 90% (Cadima, 2006; farmers to draw these customers to category get the majority of their personal communication). The chain has farmers’ markets by providing fruits and produce from the Terminal Wholesale a main warehouse for fresh produce vegetables used in their cuisine. Market in Chelsea, either directly or located in Newark, NJ, but also has Category 2: Brazilian restaurants from independent distributors (jobbers). warehouses in other states, including - There are more than 100 Brazilian- Some wholesale companies based at the Massachusetts. They order their fresh owned restaurants in Massachusetts terminal market will deliver to produce from many sources, including (Vitorino, 2007; personal individual stores for a service fee. terminal markets in New York and communication). The majority of these Category 4: “Ethnic” supermarket Miami. They will also buy directly from restaurants get their fresh fruits and chains - There are two “ethnic” farmers. vegetables from the Terminal Wholesale supermarket chains in Massachusetts Category 5: “Traditional” Market in Chelsea, MA (described that carry Brazilian products. One is supermarket chains - There are at least below), either by buying directly or Brazilian-owned and caters directly to 10 “traditional” supermarket chains with hiring jobbers that buy for them. Some this community. It has four stores stores in Massachusetts that are restaurants will buy certain locally- located in cities with large Brazilian important sources of fresh fruits and grown vegetables that are popular in populations: Framingham, Somerville, vegetables for immigrant groups, their cuisine and difficult to get Hyannis, and Shrewsbury. Each store including Brazilians. One supermarket wholesale directly from farmers. An carries a large inventory of processed chain, with 59 stores in Massachusetts example is the scarlet eggplant, a products along with a meat department and New Hampshire, has actively vegetable very popular in Brazilian and a bakery, similar to the Brazilian targeted these growing immigrant cuisine, which at times is difficult to get small markets. The stores have larger communities by offering many products, through traditional channels. A very produce sections than those markets, both fresh and processed, desired by small amount of fresh produce, however, including fresh fruits and vegetables these groups. Many of these stores have is bought directly from farms. used in the . The aisles with signs such as “Ethnic”, Category 3: Brazilian small majority of the produce comes from the “Mexican”, “Asian”, and “Brazilian” markets - The approximately 300 small Terminal Wholesale Market in Chelsea where they sell processed products used Brazilian stores in Massachusetts that MA. Kaufman et al. (2000) described a by these groups. This supermarket chain carry specific products used by Brazilians “chain” store as “operating 10 or more carries a line of Brazilian non-perishable on a regular basis and are located in areas stores or outlets”. This business with food products (e.g. drinks, flour, with large concentrations of Brazilians. only four stores would not fit their candies) and frozen (e.g. okra, These stores carry a range of products definition; however, for the purposes of cassava) popular among Brazilians. The that can vary tremendously from store this study we consider this a chain store produce manager of one store estimated to store and include Brazilian CDs and in order to differentiate it from “small that Brazilians make up 40% of their DVDs, cosmetics, clothing, and canned markets” in which one individual has customer base. This chain has a central products, such as drinks, , , and control over sales. Kaufman et al. (2000) warehouse from which the majority of other processed products. A high would refer to this business as an the fresh produce is distributed to all percentage of the products in their “Independent owned retail-store”. their stores. The warehouse receives inventory are from Brazil. Frequently The second “ethnic” supermarket is deliveries from farms, local and outside there is a butcher shop or a bakery. Fresh a Portuguese-owned chain with 17 the State, and from brokers throughout meats are a very important part of the stores in four states: New Jersey, Rhode the country. Only what they call Brazilian cuisine, and the cuts preferred Island, Massachusetts, and Florida. “tropical products” such as cassava and are different than those found in Traditionally these stores were located are delivered to individual traditional U.S. butcher shops. There are in areas with large Portuguese stores from the Terminal Wholesale also types of bakery goods that are communities, but they are now Market in Chelsea (Shea, 2007; personal unique to Brazilian culture and not expanding into areas with other communication). found in mainstream U.S. stores. The immigrant and traditional customers. Category 6: Wholesale-retail fruit amount of fresh produce carried by these They currently have four stores in and vegetable markets - This category stores varies greatly and usually focuses Massachusetts in the following cities: describes larger independent markets on items highly desired by their New Bedford, Fall River, Swansea, and that carry significant amounts of fresh clientele. Stores in this category carry Attleboro. Because of the large and fruits and vegetables that are not chain fresh produce popular among Brazilians growing Brazilian populations in many stores and have a significant ethnic that do not require cooling facilities (e.g. of the cities where these stores are customer base. Kaufman et al. (2000)

10 Hortic. bras., v. 26, n. 1, jan.-mar. 2008 Production and marketing of vegetables for the ethnic markets in the United States would refer to a store of this nature as a especially Hispanic and Asian produce the largest cable company in United “green grocer”, in which at least 50% (Mangan, 2005). States. A second Brazilian television of the sales are from fresh produce. Effects of ethnic media for station is now available in the U.S., Stores in this category function as both promotion and marketing - According called Rede Record (Rede Record retail and wholesale operations. They to the U.S. census, the percent of people Internacional, 2007). have a retail space but also sell fresh five-year old and over who speak a In 2004, a 30-second commercial produce to independent businesses, language other than English at home was commissioned by researchers at ranging from restaurants to farm stands. increased from 18.3% in 2002 to 19.4% University of Massachusetts to run on In season, stores studied as part of this in 2005. The rates are slightly higher in Rede Globo in order to promote the work buy a significant amount of their Massachusetts, from 18.7% in 2002 to availability of Brazilian vegetables fresh produce from local farmers. These 20.3% in 2005. Spanish-speakers are the grown in Massachusetts for local stores also get a significant amount of largest group, with 12% in the United markets. The vegetables highlighted in their fresh produce from other markets States. As the non-English speaking the commercial included the scarlet when not buying local. These include populations have grown in the United States eggplant, maxixe, and an okra variety the Terminal Wholesale Market in so have media outlets serving these popular in Brazil. A phone number and Chelsea and other terminal markets and communities. It is estimated that 51 million email address were included in the brokers outside the State. Americans, 24% of the adult population, commercial to allow people to get more Category 7: Jobbers - These are are either primary or secondary consumers information on the availability of these small to medium size wholesale of ethnic media (Project for Excellence in crops. Over 120 phone calls and emails operations that buy products from larger Journalism, 2006). were received from Brazilians desiring wholesale operations and deliver them While mainstream print media is these products, demonstrating the to retail businesses (Kaufman et al., experiencing a downturn in readership, impact of the commercial. A focus of 2000). The largest source of fresh fruit Hispanic media outlets are experiencing the commercial was to emphasize the and vegetables for these businesses are strong growth. Hispanic daily fact that these vegetables were grown the Terminal Wholesale Market in newspaper circulation rose from less locally and the seed was obtained from Chelsea, MA. One jobber company than 200,000 in 1970 to over 1.6 million Brazil, confirming their authenticity. interviewed is Brazilian-owned and has in 2005. Advertising dollars have Many Brazilians contacting project over 30 accounts in Massachusetts, increased in a similar trend to personnel via email and phone relayed mostly made up of restaurants and small circulation, and were estimated to be $ their excitement about being able to buy stores. Another term used at the 996 million in all ethnic media in 2005 these vegetables in the U.S. for the first Terminal Wholesale Market for people (Project For Excellence in Journalism, time. in this category is “peddlers”. 2007). As a specific example, in 2003, In this same year project personnel Category 8: Terminal wholesale Bank of America Corp., the third largest from UMass were interviewed on a market in Chelsea MA - The New bank in the U.S., initiated a $50 million popular TV show on Rede Globo England Produce Center and the Boston multicultural advertising campaign. The International, Planeta Brasil, about Market Terminal, together referred to by campaign, which represented 25% of the local farmers growing Brazilian many as “Chelsea Market”, since it is total marketing budget for that year, vegetables and local markets that were located in Chelsea, MA, play an included advertisements in ethnic media carrying them. This is one of the few important role for many farming in several languages, including $13 shows on Rede Globo that is not operations in the State and region. The million for Spanish-language television produced in Brazil and focuses on terminal market focuses on independent advertising (Talcott, 2004). stories of interest among Brazilians retailers and food service accounts The Brazilian community in living outside of Brazil, in particular in (Cook, 2001). Many farms in Massachusetts also makes great use of the United States. Both the commercial Massachusetts sell wholesale to Chelsea media specifically targeting their and the segment on Planeta Brasil Market, but with the growth of farm community. Perhaps the most important played an important role in promoting stands in recent years, many local media outlet is the television station the sales of these vegetables, not only growers buy fresh produce from the Rede Globo, which is the largest in 2004 but in subsequent years. During Chelsea Market to augment their own television station in Brazil and the third the interviews with consumers many produce sold at their farm stands. The most watched station in the world with Brazilians mentioned that they had seen Terminal Wholesale Market in Chelsea 80 million people tuning in daily. The the commercial and segment on Planeta is a major source of fresh fruits and international channel of Rede Globo, Brasil. vegetables, either directly or indirectly, which is available in 66 countries in 5 In May of 2006, an event was in all the categories described above, continents, reaches 5.5 million people organized by UMass personnel to except for farmers’ markets. One growth outside of Brazil (TV Globo evaluate the sales potential for vegetable area at the terminal market is fresh fruits Internacional, 2007). In the U.S., Rede transplants that can be sold as bedding and vegetables popular among the Globo was first offered by dish network plants to the Brazilian community. growing immigrant populations, and now is also available from Comcast, Specific vegetable transplants were

Hortic. bras., v. 26, n. 1, jan.-mar. 2008 11 FX Mangan et al.

Brazilian dish called cozido, which also has maxixe as a key ingredient. Due to the results of these surveys, commercial farmers in Massachusetts are producing maxixe for the first time in 2007. Final remarks - The large and growing Brazilian population in Massachusetts has a strong preference for their traditional cuisine, and this represents a market with strong potential for local producers. In order for local farmers to fully take advantage of these opportunities, it is critical that they understand the market demand for the specific products and the distribution system used by the markets that sell these products. The terminal wholesale market in Chelsea, MA is a dominant Figure 3. Supply chain for fresh produce used by Brazilians in Massachusetts - Line thickness of arrows varies according to estimates of product flows (cadeia de abastecimento de produ- distribution point for most of the retail tos frescos utilizados por brasileiros em Massachusets – a espessura das linhas varia de markets that cater to Brazilians (Figure acordo com a estimativa do fluxo de produtos). Amherst, University of Massachusetts, 2007. 3). This is especially true for small Source: interviews with wholesale and retail managers of traditional and ethnic chains, Brazilian stores and restaurants, which small markets and restaurant owners, jobbers, farmers and consumers (fonte: entrevistas represent over 300 markets in the state. com gerentes de atacadistas e de redes varejistas tradicionais e étnicas, donos de pequenos Most of these 300 businesses sell mercados e restaurantes, atravessadores, produtores e consumidores). relatively small amounts of fresh produce per week, and therefore, it is produced and brought to the market. were implemented with Brazilian not practical for local farmers to deliver These included transplants of maxixe, consumers living in the United States to individual stores. Instead, it would be taioba, and okra. To promote the event, about their purchasing habits for maxixe more efficient to sell the produce to an article was published in a Brazilian while they were living in Brazil since vendors at the terminal market where newspaper called Brazilian Voice based this vegetable was not available fresh these smaller stores buy their produce. in Newark, NJ, because the store in the U.S. It is important that local farmers manager recommended this newspaper More than 40% of consumers bought understand the difference between as the most popular one among the at least 1 kg (2.2 lbs) per week of maxixe Brazilian-owned and non-Brazilian Brazilians in Newark. During the while living in Brazil (figure 4). There owned businesses. The owners of of the event, in person interviews were was a strong relationship between the Brazilian-owned businesses are very conducted with 30 Brazilians and results amount purchased and the state of origin knowledgeable about the fresh fruits and showed that 47% of the respondents saw in Brazil. Brazilians from states in Brazil vegetables desired by their clientele and the article in the Brazilian newspaper. where this vegetable is more popular are in a position to promote them to their This newspaper is written exclusively had a tendency to buy more. More than customers. The use of point-of-sales in Portuguese. Other examples of 10% of those surveyed did not know materials and other types of promotion Brazilian newspapers produced in the what maxixe was, since they came from are not as critical with these smaller United States that are exclusively in states where it is not part of the local Brazilian-owned stores since the Portuguese are: a Notícia, Metropolitan, cuisine (data on states of origin not employees of the stores can promote the Brazilian Press, and National Brazilian shown). For those consumers that products themselves. Newspaper. They are all free and are bought maxixe in Brazil, they were Managers of supermarket chain asked if they used any fresh vegetables available in the majority of the 1,000 stores understand the changes in their available in the U.S. as substitutes for Brazilian stores in Massachusetts. marketplace due to the growth of maxixe. Forty-two percent of those immigrant populations and are eager to Purchasing habits for Brazilian surveyed said that there were no offer fresh produce that is desired by vegetables in the U.S. - Before farmers’ substitutes for maxixe (data not shown), these groups; however, they need to be devote valuable land and resources to indicating its uniqueness to some produce new crops it is critical that they consumers. However, 54% of those educated about the specific crops understand the size of the market for the surveyed said that they buy cucumbers desired by these groups and what the specific crops. UMass researchers as a substitute. Four percent of market potential for them is before they implement surveys with target customers said that they bought scarlet will buy them. It is critical to have staff consumers to ascertain food habits for eggplant and okra as substitutes, that understands the language and the the target crops. As an example, surveys probably since they are both used in a culture of the target ethnic group in order

12 Hortic. bras., v. 26, n. 1, jan.-mar. 2008 Production and marketing of vegetables for the ethnic markets in the United States to implement a market analysis of the specific products to be assessed. In the case of the market analysis of the hybrid squash and maxixe in this study, Portuguese-speaking survey takers were essential, since the majority of consumers interviewed were Portuguese-dominant. In addition to linguistic reasons, there were cultural considerations. A large percentage of the Brazilian population in Massachusetts is undocumented and the fact that project personnel implementing the surveys were Brazilian and spoke Portuguese made interviewees more comfortable to take the survey. Figure 4. Amount of maxixe purchased weekly by Brazilian consumers when living in An understanding of the importance Brazil (quantidade de maxixe adquirida semanalmente por brasileiros enquanto viviam no and power of ethnic media outlets is Brasil). Amherst, University of Massachusetts, 2007. critical to maximize the sales of target Source: Survey conducted with 105 Brazilians at two stores in Massachusetts (Fall River products. Brazilian newspapers and and New Bedford) and two stores in New Jersey (Newark and Kearny), in 2006 (pesquisa cable TV are important sources of realizada com 105 brasileiros em dois supermercados em Massachusetts (Fall River e New information for the consumers in this Bedford) e dois em New Jersey (Newark e Kearny) em 2006). study, and articles and programming on Brazilian TV promoting locally-grown vegetables had a tremendous impact on to grow them successfully. There can DUZYAMAN E. 1997 Okra: botany and horticulture. Horticultural Reviews 21: 41-72. sales. These newspapers and locally- also be considerable risk in growing new Embrapa. Cultivo da mandioca na região centro produced TV programs are hungry for crops without a thorough understanding sul do Brasil. Available in: http:// stories that highlight products desired by of their market potential. It is essential sistemasdeproducao.cnptia.embrapa.br/ their audience, in particular ones that that the farmers understand the market FontesHTML/Mandioca/mandioca_centrosul/ they did not know could be produced demand for a specific crop, and the index.htm. Accessed in May 15, 2007. distribution system used to deliver the FILGUEIRA FAR. 2000. Novo manual de locally. It was very easy to get Brazilian- olericultura: Agrotecnologia moderna na owned newspapers to produce articles crops to the consumer, before planting produção e comercialização de hortaliças. about the availability of the locally- the seed. Viçosa: UFV. 402 p. grown vegetables that were used in this FUKUDA WMG. 2005. Embrapa Pesquisa research. REFERENCES Mandioca para Indústria de Amido. 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